Friday, 24 July 2015

Georges again

Time to return to Georges of Bristol to hear some more from their chairman.

First a little about the brewery’s history. Founded in 1730, it was registered as a limited company in 1888. Courage bought it up in 1961 with 1,459 tied houses. That number of pubs means it must have been one of the largest regional breweries. It closed in 1999, more than a decade and a half after Horsleydown, the original Courage brewery*.

I drank their beer many times when I lived in London. After the closure of Horsleydown it was the source of Courage Best and Directors. They were OK, if nothing special, I recall. I had a few pints of Best a couple of years ago in Folkestone. Presumably brewed by Charles Wells. It was much the same: alright, but unspectacular.

The war years saw breweries starved of investment. Meaning considerable sums needed to be invested after war’s end, if a company wanted to have their brewery up to scratch:

“During the past two years over £261,000 has been expended on additions to fixed assets.

Of this sum £132,000 represents purchases of valuable licensed houses when opportunities arose. The balance consists of expenditure incurred additions to and modernisation of the brewery and plant particularly to deal economically with the very large increase in output of bottled beers.

Substantial further outlay will be necessary over the next few years to complete this programme in respect of which contracts had been placed September 30, 1949, amounting to £90,000 approximately. “
Western Daily Press - Friday 27 January 1950, page 4.

£132,000 would have been a decent number of pubs – several dozen. You need to remember that for most breweries the only realistic way of boosting output was to control more pubs. The vast majority of beer was drunk in pubs and there were very limited free trade opportunities.

And here’s the recurring theme of a surge in bottled beer sales. Bottling requires far more machinery than merely racking into barrels. Investment in new plant would have been needed to keep up with demand.

Progress in Repairs
Capital expenditure will also be required to meet the cost of building licensed premises on the Corporation new housing estates. We are pleased to report that negotiations with the planning authorities connection with this matter are proceeding on a satisfactory basis, as stockholders will no doubt have noticed In the Press.

Considerable progress has been made in carrying out repairs which had been deferred on account of war conditions. A survey of outstanding repairs of this nature has been made. In the absence of a further rise in costs it is estimated that the provision made in this year's accounts will be sufficient to cover work still to done.”
Western Daily Press - Friday 27 January 1950, page 4.

In an attempt to fill the housing shortage whole new suburbs, or even complete new towns were built after the war. These were a great opportunity for brewers, offering them the chance to build a large, modern pub in an area with little competition.

Civilian building work came to pretty much a complete stop during the war. Ad in addition to routine maintenance work that had been delayed, many pubs were affected by bombing. George, based in a major port would have had more than their share of pubs damage or even destroyed by German bombs.

I’ll finish with some of Georges beers from the 1950’s:

Georges beers 1949 - 1960
Year Beer Style Price per pint d package OG FG ABV App. Atten-uation colour
1949 IPA IPA 17 draught 1037.1 1008.9 3.66 76.01% 29 B
1952 Home Brew Home Brewed 22 bottled 1043.3 1009.9 4.34 77.14% 1.5 + 40
1953 Glucose Stout Stout 28 bottled 1045.5 1017.6 3.60 61.32% 1 + 11
1954 Barley Wine Barley Wine 40 bottled 1078.2 1026 6.78 66.75% 95
1956 Brown Ale Brown Ale 24 bottled 1035.2 1010.8 3.16 69.32% 90
1958 Glucose Stout Stout 30 bottled 1045.3 1019.3 3.25 57.40% 225
1959 Glucose Stout Stout 28 bottled 1045 1018.7 3.39 58.44% 225
1959 Light Ale Light Ale 24 bottled 1033 1008.7 3.15 73.64% 18
1960 Export Port Ale Pale Ale 30 bottled 1043.4 1012.8 3.83 70.51% 18
Source:
Whitbread Gravity book held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document number LMA/4453/D/02/001.


The chairman hasn't finished speaking yet.






* “Century of British Brewers plus” by Norman Barber, 2005, page 118.

Thursday, 23 July 2015

Bottled Stout in the 1950’s

I’ve finally pulled my finger out and ordered my bottled Stout analyses. No, I didn’t shout at them to go and make some tea. I’ve divided them up into groups. Otherwise there are just too many to make sense of.

As with the Pale Ales, I sort of made up my own styles for this purpose. Or at least classes. They aren’t very complicated. I’ve used two criteria: gravity and attenuation. This what I’ve come up with:

Type OG Apparent attenuation
Strong Stout >1050 >65%
Strong Stout >1050 <50%
Standard Stout 1040 - 1050 >70%
Standard Stout 1040 - 1050 65 - 70%
Standard Stout 1040 - 1050 60 - 65%
Standard Stout 1040 - 1050 50 - 60%
Standard Stout 1040 - 1050 <50%
Weak Stout 1030 - 1040 >70%
Weak Stout 1030 - 1040 65 - 70%
Weak Stout 1030 - 1040 60 - 65%
Weak Stout 1030 - 1040 50 - 60%
Weak Stout 1030 - 1040 <50%


Why am I using attenuation as well as OG? Because there’s so much variation in the degree of attenuation. Way more than with other styles. The lowest is 33% the highest 95%. I think it’s pretty obvious that beers with such differing attenuation have little in common.

Obviously, my dividing lines are totally arbitrary. But I’ve a decent number of examples in each of my categories. Why did I split 60-70% into two categories? For no real reason. I feel justified by the fact that for both standard and weak Stout unsplit this level of attenuation would have been by a long way the largest group.

These are the numbers of each type:

Type OG Apparent attenuation no. examples % of total
Strong Stout >1050 >65% 19 4.17%
Strong Stout >1050 <50% 11 2.41%
Standard Stout 1040 - 1050 >70% 62 14.04%
Standard Stout 1040 - 1050 65 - 70% 47 10.31%
Standard Stout 1040 - 1050 60 - 65% 48 10.53%
Standard Stout 1040 - 1050 50 - 60% 64 14.04%
Standard Stout 1040 - 1050 <50% 13 2.85%
Weak Stout 1030 - 1040 >70% 43 9.43%
Weak Stout 1030 - 1040 65 - 70% 42 9.21%
Weak Stout 1030 - 1040 60 - 65% 36 7.89%
Weak Stout 1030 - 1040 50 - 60% 57 12.50%
Weak Stout 1030 - 1040 <50% 12 2.63%
total

456 100.00%

What’s the point of all this? To demonstrate again that not all English Stout was sweet. The fact that for both standard and weak Stout there are about as many examples with attenuation above 65% as there are below 65% vindicates my assertion.

But I’ll be making that point at much greater length in what follows.

Wednesday, 22 July 2015

Let’s Brew Wednesday – 1933 Oranjeboom Bok

Loving Lager. Apparently none of us snobby beer writers do. That’s why we never write about it. Guess I don’t count as a proper beer writer, then, because I spend quite a bit of my time banging on about Lager.

Not just that. I’ve published quite a few recipes, too. We’ve another today. From one of Holland’s less fashionable breweries Oranjeboom.

When I lived in Rotterdam in the 1980’s, the Oranjeboom brewery, on the south bank of the river, was still operational. At the time it, along with Drie Hoefijzers in Breda, was owned by the British group Allied Breweries. The brewery was a purpose built Lager plant, which opened in 1885, though the business dated back to the 17th century. It closed in 1990.

I’m trying to remember if I ever drank their beer. Possibly. I definitely had stuff from Drie Hoefijzers. I may have tried Oranjeboom Bok. And that pub around the corner from where I lived. Did that sell Oranjeboom? If it did, I must have drunk their Pils. Just shows how memorable a beer it was. Didn’t register at all.

A reasonable number of Dutch brewing records have been preserved. If I weren’t so busy with other stuff I might have attacked them more systematically. I really should find time one weekend to revisit the Amsterdam archive and finish off the Heineken and Amstel records they have there.

Form the look of it, this beer doesn’t differ much from a modern Dutch Bok. About the same gravity and colour. Just the attenuation is a bit lower. What else can I say? Nothing really.





So . . . . welcome back Kristen . . . . .












Kristen’s Version
Notes: Wow. These logs are b.o.r.i.n.g. and bloody sparse. Everything uses different amounts of pale malt, caramel malt, roast malt and ‘caramel’. Very little in the way of temps, times, heats, etc etc. So we make some assumptions, just to make something like this. The gravities are correct, same for the grist and hops, so we are pretty damn close already.

Malt: Pretty simple. Pale pilsy malt, 200EBC (100L) caramel or there abouts and a touch of caramel. Not sure why, doesn’t really add much but go ahead. I’d use some MFB pilsner malt as a nice mix, probably 50:50 of CaraMunich80 and 120, got get near enough 100L and keep the Be-Ne-Lux love going.

Hops: Something nice, doesn’t have to be something Germanic but it’s hard to argue Hallertauer aren’t pretty damn great. Really, just choose something nice please. Something that doesn’t smell like a hobo or ‘lemon wash up liquid’ as Ron always complains about…

Yeast: Any solid lager yeast. W34/70 is easy. I prefer 833. You want that gravity, 833 is what you want. If not, it’s a bastard to keep from drying out.

Cask: Standard procedure… Seriously guys, not this time…

Tuesday, 21 July 2015

John Smiths beers 1960 - 1967

This is a totally unscheduled post. Something that sort of created itself out of a Facebook conversation.

It started when someone posted this John Smiths price list from 1971:


I remembered that I had a wealth of analyses of John Smiths beers from the Whitbread Gravity Book.

John Smiths beers 1960 - 1967
Year Beer Style Price size package OG FG ABV App. Atten-uation colour
1960 Pale Ale (sold in Belgium) Pale Ale bottled 1055.5 1013.7 5.22 75.32% 17
1961 Golden Keg Ale Pale Ale 22d to 24d pint draught 1039.1 1009 3.76 76.98% 19
1964 Double Brown Brown Ale 24d pint bottled 1047.3 1016.7 3.82 64.69% 80
1964 Milk Maid Stout Stout 16.5d half pint bottled 1042.2 1022.2 2.50 47.39% 325
1964 Golden Keg Pale Ale 24d pint draught 1039.1 1009.4 3.71 75.96% 23
1964 Draught Magnet Pale Ale 20d pint draught 1043 1007.4 4.45 82.79% 35
1964 Bitter Pale Ale 18d pint draught 1038.3 1007.6 3.84 80.16% 23
1964 Mild Ale Mild 15d pint draught 1030.9 1008.5 2.80 72.49% 30
1964 Magnet Pale Ale Pale Ale 14.5d half pint bottled 1043.5 1007.2 4.54 83.45% 16
1964 Light Ale Light Ale 10.5d half pint bottled 1031.9 1009.6 2.79 69.91% 29
1965 Pale Ale (sold in Belgium) Pale Ale bottled 1056.1 1011.8 5.54 78.97% 13
1967 Magnet Pale Ale Pale Ale 24d pint draught 1043.5 1008.7 4.35 80.00% 33
Source:
Whitbread Gravity book held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document number LMA/4453/D/02/001.

There's a personal connection with one of these beers. Milk Maid Stout was a Warwick & Richardson brand. And the beer my Mum used to drink. The label appers prominently on the cover of  The Home Brewer's Guide to Vintage Beer.


There's not a huge difference between the prices in the two lists. Take Golden, for example. 24d = 10p, meaning it had gone up 4p between 1964 and 1971. But that would soon change. The early 1970's were a time of high inflation.

That's it. Just a pile of random crap. Oh, except one last thing. Golden and Bitter were probably the same beer. Note how much worse value the keg beer is.




Monday, 20 July 2015

Let's Brew Wednesday - 1950 Adnams DS Stout

I know. It isn’t Wednesday. But I’ve a good reason for posting early, as you’ll discover on Wednesday.

To tie in with my look at Adnams beers after WW II, I’ve decided to publish recipes, too. Starting at the same place, DS Stout.

It’s typical of a certain type of post-war English Stout. A kind of beer everyone seems to have forgotten about. A gravity of 1040-45, 65-70% attenuation, a bit under 4% ABV. Too strong and too highly-attenuated to be a Sweet Stout, but less attenuated than Guinness. I’ve dozens of examples. Though as the 1950’s progressed, some did turn sweeter. Presumably to put a clear distance between them and Guinness. Or simply because there was a demand for Sweet Stout.

I was intrigued to see that in the 1920’s the attenuation of Stouts had been greater – mostly over 70%. I think I know the reason why it had fallen by 1950. They were deliberately leaving the FG high to give the beer some body, albeit at the expense of ABV.

Moving on to the beer itself, the grist is a combination of four malts: mild, chocolate, amber and crystal. I can’t recall seeing that mix before. Most breweries had ditched amber malt before chocolate malt became very common. Looking through some older Adnams records I noticed that they switched from black to chocolate malt quite early, back in 1914. For the simple reason of that juxtaposition of malts, I’d love to try this beer.

The hopping is total guesswork. All I know for certain is that the hops were English. But as Fuggles accounted for around 75% of the British crop at this date, choosing Fuggles seems pretty safe. Especially as most of the other 25% were Goldings and you wouldn’t usually use those in a Stout. They were meant for Pale Ales and other posh beers.

It looks as if a fair bit of the colour comes from caramel so it may come out a little pale if you don’t use any.




That’s all I can think of to say. So over to me with my other hat on . . . . .





1950 Adnams DS
mild malt 6.50 lb 73.24%
chocolate malt 0.625 lb 7.04%
amber malt 0.625 lb 7.04%
crystal malt 60 L 0.625 lb 7.04%
no. 3 sugar 0.375 lb 4.23%
caramel 0.125 lb 1.41%
Fuggles 90 min 1.00 oz
Fuggles 30 min 1.00 oz
OG 1040
FG 1012.2
ABV 3.68
Apparent attenuation 69.50%
IBU 30
SRM 40
Mash at 148º F
Sparge at 170º F
Boil time 120 minutes
pitching temp 60º F
Yeast WLP025 Southwold



Sunday, 19 July 2015

Georges of Bristol

I’ve just found another juicy company report. One of the most informative I’ve come across, especially in conjuring up the atmosphere of the immediate, difficult post-war years.

Brewery chairmen loved to whinge at their annual general meetings. Mostly about the meddling government and excessive taxation. Georges’ chairman makes some rather more telling points. Though obviously he moans about government policy and tax.

“You will have noted that your board, after careful consideration faced with decrease the net profit of £57,168, being £211,034 as compared with £268,202, decided to recommend the appropriation of £16,560 to contingencies reserve, and £8,000. as for many years past, to the pensions and benevolent fund, leaving the carry-forward £165,213, about £500 less, compared with September 30, 1948

Decrease in Dividend
We also recommend a final dividend on the ordinary stock of 13 per cent., making with the interim dividend of per cent., 18 per cent free of tax, for the year, being 4 per cent. net lower than year ago.

Your directors much regret having to recommend a lower rate of dividend. Possibly you will have noted that we are now back to the normal rate of dividend paid in pre-war years.

Stockholders who heard my remarks at the annual meeting last year, may remember that I said then that, especially since October 1948, there had been decreases in output every month, especially in our sales of draught beers. We hoped, that there might be some improvement last summer, and this was so to certain extent, owing to a fine summer, but gains in the bottled beers were more than counterbalanced by losses in the draught sales. There has been a steady swing back to bottled beers.

The quality of the company's beers have been well maintained in spite of all difficulties. The early years of the war, though full of anxiety and sorrow for the nation, were, from the money earning and money spending point of view, prosperous years, and this was reflected in this company's sales.”
Western Daily Press - Friday 27 January 1950, page 4.

I get three main points from that. First that the war years had been surprisingly good for brewers. Lots of demand and customers with cash in their pockets meant breweries earned good profits.

Something similar had occurred during WW I. At the start of that war many breweries had been teetering on bankruptcy. The war was the saving of them, returning them to profitability and raise their capital back up to pre-1910 levels. (Many breweries had to mark down their capital after the 1909 budget that greatly increased the financial burden on pubs, hence reducing their value. As pubs formed the overwhelming majority of a brewery’s assets, most ended up with share capital far greater in excess of the true value of the company.)

The second point is about falling sales. Beer production peaked in 1946 at 32.65 million barrels, then went into decline. It didn’t start rising again until 1960 and only exceeded the 1946 figure in 1970. You can see why there were so many brewery takeovers and closures between 1950 and 1970. There was considerable overcapacity in the industry.

Here are some numbers to demonstrate the trends:

Production, tax and average OG 1945 - 1959
Year Production (bulk barrels) Production (standard barrels) Duty per standard barrel Average OG Net excise receipts (pounds)
1945 31,332,852 19,678,449 286s 5.5d 1034.54 278,876,870
1946 32,650,200 20,612,225 286s 5.5d 1034.72 295,305,369
1947 29,261,398 17,343,690 286s 5.5d 1032.59 250,350,829
1948 30,408,634 18,061,390 325s 5d 1032.66 264,112,043
1949 26,990,144 16,409,937 364s 4.5d 1033.43 294,678,035
1950 26,513,997 16,337,315 343s 4.5d 1033.88 263,088,673
1951 24,891,746 16,739,464 321s 1036.99 249,146,244
1952 25,156,489 16,958,628 321s 1037.07 248,165,812
1953 24,883,227 16,681,119 321s 1036.87 243,372,425
1954 24,582,303 16,525,316 321s 1036.97 242,031,712
1955 23,934,215 16,161,698 321s 1037.13 237,452,121
1956 24,551,158 16,618,162 321s 1037.22 243,682,807
1957 24,506,524 16,674,001 321s 1037.42 245,473,441
1958 24,647,978 16,799,108 321s 1037.48 246,077,234
1959 23,783,833 16,226,433 321s 1037.52 238,722,997
Sources:
Brewers' Almanack 1955, p. 50
Brewers' Almanack 1962, p. 48

The final point is the surge in popularity of bottled beer. Even in a declining market it was showing an absolute increase in sales. The usual explanations for this are on the one hand unfulfilled demand for many years due to government restrictions and shortages of things like bottles. On the other, lots of dodgy draught beer due to very low gravities, a shortage of good quality raw materials and poorly trained landlords.

It could also have been fashion. Some of the most popular styles of the 1950’s – Brown Ale, Milk Stout and Light Ale – were exclusively bottled products. If you wanted to drink them, you had no option but to buy bottles.

There will be more to follow about Georges.