German beer exports in the 1890s

As I've posted so much about UK beer exports recently, it seems only fair to look at Germany's efforts, too.

In the years after reunification, everything looked rosy for German brewing. Both production an exports were increasing.

Foreign and Home Consumption of German Beer
Mr. Max J. Baehr, Consul at Kehl states: The German beer industry has grown year by year, and the increasing capacity of the establishments has made it necessary for the brewers to search for new markets where their overproductions could be disposed of. The home consumption, of course, is depended on as giving the first and greatest chance to sell the different kinds of beer, but the larger brewers, especially those who increased the capacity of their establishments more or less after the style of the big American breweries, have had to find customers in foreign countries. Their efforts for some time met with good results, and Germany’s beer industry had an export market for its products which seemed to be all that could be expected.
The Brewers' Journal vol. 35 1899, September 15th 1899, page 516.

You can see that production rose Steadily from 1871 to 1890, when it fell back for a couple of years. Then started to grow even more quickly than before. My guess is that domestic consumption drove that growth. The volumes are too big - 10 million hl between 1895 and 1900 - for it possibly to be mostly exports.

In the year 1885, the export of German beer reached its high-water mark, amounting in that year to 1,318,000 hectoliters (34,821,560 gallons), representing a value of 24,000,000 marks (5,712,000 dollars). The next year, however, showed a decrease, and since then the export has gone down to about one-half of what it was in 1885. The reason given for this decline is that the countries which were Germany’s best customers (France, Belgium, and the Netherlands) have increased their output sufficiently to nearly meet the home demand. The high duty placed on foreign beers by France has also had the effect of considerably reducing the import of German beers into that country. In all those years, the export of German beer in bulk (barrels) has been greater, contrary to general belief, than in bottles.
The Brewers' Journal vol. 35 1899, September 15th 1899, page 516.

I make those record 1885 exports 967,266 barrels. Which is almost double the half million barrels exported from the UK Around the same time. Even when German exports fell by 50% after 1885, they would still be about equal to the UK's. Quite impressive, when you consider German didn't have an extensive oversea empire. As we saw in earlier posts, a high percentage of UK exports when to British possessions.

German beer once had nearly a monopoly of the beer trade of South America; but there also, it is stated, the demand has decreased, while at the same time, according to trade papers, the demand for United States beer has increased. The decline of the German beer trade in Brazil alone during the years 1896 and 1897 is given as amounting to fully three-fourths of what the German brewers had exported to that country in former years.
The Brewers' Journal vol. 35 1899, September 15th 1899, page 516.

It would have been more understandable if local beer had been taking the place of German imports. Why was American beer replacing it? Was it cheaper? Better promoted? More to local taste?

It is a noticeable fact that, while the export has declined year by year, the production of beer in Germany has advanced steadily, showing that the home consumption has greatly increased. At present, the United States is the best foreign customer for German beer, importing 522,138 gallons in 1895 and 689,456 gallons in 1896. The export of beer from Germany to Venezuela, Japan, and China together did not in the years given amount to one-half the exports to the United States alone. Brazil and British India, as consumers of German beer, come next to the United States.

The German brewing industry has strong hopes of entirely supplanting the English in Australia and other English colonies.
The Brewers' Journal vol. 35 1899, September 15th 1899, page 516.

That figure for German exports to the USA in 1896 is 19,152 barrels. In 1898, the UK exported quite a bit more, at 28,556 barrels.

It was the Australians themselves who replaced UK imports. 

An interesting anniversary

This is a bit of a weird article. Which was inspired by a 70th anniversary. One I'm a bit dubious of.

A curious and interesting anniversary was celebrated at Berlin on the first day of the current month. It was nothing less than the seventieth anniversary of the introduction of Bavarian beer into the capital of Prussia, and, as the Daily Telegraph observes, this was no ordinary fete day, inasmuch as "it records an immense revolution in the bibulous habits and tastes of a very thirsty section of a notoriously absorptive race of people.” There is probably no unduly imaginative notion set afoot, when one declares that beer has played a great role in drawing the peoples of North and South Germany into close political and social union. When Herr Goschenhofer started his Bavarian beer brewery in Berlin, that is to say, in the year 1829, the political relations, existing between Prussia and Bavaria were, to use the language of diplomacy, somewhat strained, and the since realised dream of a United Germany appeared almost impossible of realisation. 
The Brewers' Journal vol. 35 1899, September 15th 1899, page 530.

1829 seems very early to me for the first Lager brewery in Berlin. I'm sure I used yo have the dates for the first bottom-fermenting breweries in North Germany. Where the hell did I put that?

It seems that there were a few more Berlin Lager brewers in the first half of the 19th century.

During the interval between 1829 and 1850 some three or four Bavarian beer breweries appear to have sprung up, and to have commanded very fair business, but the real beginning of the general taste for South German beers dates from the years 1870-71, when the united German armies beat the French, and when the little “blue devils” of Bavaria enforced upon their superior Prussian comrades the respect they were entitled to by reason of the genuine prowess and bon camaraderie they everywhere displayed throughout that terrible campaign. 
The Brewers' Journal vol. 35 1899, September 15th 1899, page 530.

Unification would obviously give a boost to Bavarian beer in the rest of Germany as lots of trade barriers were removed.

Here's a description of the types of beers brewed in Berlin.

In a work indited by the late Henry Vizetelly, and entitled "Wines of the World,” we find the beers of Berlin thus described:— "Besides its weiss Bier,” says Vizetelly, writing in 1875, "Berlin is celebrated for its Baierisch Bier, brewed according to the Bavarian method, as well as its bitter, braun, josty, and weizen Biere. The bitter beer is very thin, whereas the brown beer is thick and often sweet. The josty beer, which takes its name from its brewer, has a flavour of herbs, and the weizen Bier, brewed like the weiss, from wheat malt, dispenses altogether with hops.” 
The Brewers' Journal vol. 35 1899, September 15th 1899, page 530.

Odd that a book on wine should describe the types of beer brewed in Berlin. I'm wondering what is meant by "weizen Bier". It seems to be another type of wheat beer. I can't remember hearing of another type of Berlin wheat beer. Especially one without hops.

In all probability Bismarck set the fashion of drinking Baierisch bier; at all events, the custom of imbibing luscious draughts has so much increased that Berlin stands first in point of production of any town in the Fatherland. There are twenty large breweries, producing in the course of the year 2,805,000 hectolitres of beer. As a country Bavaria takes the lead in Germany, considered from the point of view of beer production, inasmuch as 16,000,000 hectolitres are annually brewed, the larger proportion being turned out from the splendid establishments at Munich. It will be of interest if we quote the figures representing the amount of alcoholic liquors produced in Germany in the course of a year. Beer, 61,000,000 hectolitres; wine, 32,000,000 litres; and 230,000,000 litres of brandy represent the amount required to assuage the thirst of that eminently thirsty nation. This means, as regards beer, 235.8 litres per head per annum in Bavaria ana 206 litres in Berlin. The inhabitants of Munich consume 566 litres per head annually, a record it would be hard to beat. 
The Brewers' Journal vol. 35 1899, September 15th 1899, page 530.

Those consumption per head figures are totally crazy. 566 litres is more than ten litres a week. Given that there must have been people who drank little or no beer, there also must have been plenty of drinkers knocking back three litres or more every day. Just as well Lager wasn't really intoxicating.

The figure for wine production doesn't look right. I think it's more likely 30 million hectolitres, rather than litres.

The consumption of lager in this country appears to be but a mere drop in the ocean as compared with the home-brewed article, inasmuch as the first six months of the year only indicate imports of lager at the rate of 50,000 barrels a year, yet in the face of the facts we have stated as to the ever-growing popularity of beers brewed on the Bavarian system in Berlin, we should hardly like to say that it is impossible that lager may grow in public estimation in London, and England generally, especially if the price is moderate and the liquor good. The experiment is to be tried, and its issue will be watched with no common degree of interest by every brewer, in almost equal measure, in fact, as by the enterprising Burton firm who are taking up the production of this much-vaunted “conversational ale.”
The Brewers' Journal vol. 35 1899, September 15th 1899, page 530.

Lagers may have been growing in popularity, but the quantities consuned were still tiny. And would remain so for a long while. Possobly because the price of Lager remained much higher than that of other beers.

The last section clearly refers to Allsopp and their purchase of a Lager plant. And their experiment in brewing certainly didn't work out. They only brewed Lager in Burton for around a decade, the plant then falling into disuse. And was eventually moved to Arroll in Alloa. 

Beating Lager (at its own game)

The Brewers' Journal was a bit obsessed with Lager at the end of the 19th century. I suppose it must have been disconcerting for UK brewers to see the wave of Lager that spread over the Continent. And then the rest of the world. While the impact in the UK was minimal, it seriously damaged Britain's export markets.

A question which comes up quite often is: how can we brew a top-fermenting beer with the attributes if a Lager?

It has often been alleged that top-fermentation beers are, as a rule, very deficient of the sparkling brilliancy of the well-brewed lager, and that apart from any considerations of flavour, the bottom-fermentation beer possesses such a distinctly attractive appearance that comparison with ordinary English beers is altogether in its favour. There is no doubt a considerable substratum of truth in this, and, indeed, so much so that one cannot wonder at the want of appreciation of top-fermentation beers as displayed by our continental cousins. In Germany, for instance, this sort of beer has made no progress at all in the estimation of consumers, and a good deal of this want of success is attributable to the appearance of the beer. The splendid beers brewed at famous centres like Munich, Pilsen, Berlin, Bremen, and other towns are well calculated to hold their own, not only for their inherent qualities of flavour and purity, but also for the delightful appearance they present m the mugs and glasses as used on the continent. 
The Brewers' Journal vol. 35 1899, August 15th 1899, pages 484 - 485.

Brilliant, highly-carbonated Lager looked very pretty in the glass. How could dull, old top-fermenting beer compete with that? Well, UK brewers tried to achieve this with their skill.

English brewers, however, have no special reasons to fear an invasion of lager beer, to any disturbing extent, but, at the same time, they strive with all diligence to attain to the manufacture of brilliant and sparkling ales. Brillancy allied with flatness is not difficult to attain, but brillancy and sparkling condition are the goal of every brewer. 
The Brewers' Journal vol. 35 1899, August 15th 1899, pages 484 - 485.

It seems that a German brewer had a more technical solution.

Quite recently a German brewer, by name Schanderl, has described a process by which it is claimed top-fermentation beers may be brewed equally attractive in appearance to the lager. The process aims at applying the methods of bottom fermentation in large casks to top fermentation beers. The primary fermentation is conducted in the ordinary manner, at the termination of which the beer is let down into lager casks. To this is added a considerable quantity of “ krausen ” or yeast priming, and the lager casks are closed. The consequence is evolution of carbonic acid gas to a large extent, and since it cannot escape the beer becomes thoroughly impregnated with this gas. As much pressure is exerted, Schanderl advocates the use of metal casks, fitted with funnel-shaped bottoms, so that the removal of the large yeast deposit is facilitated. The quantity of yeast formed must be considerable, and of course this should be carefully excluded from trade casks, to which the beer is transferred without loss of pressure. It is said that beers thus fermented reach the customer in a highly sparkling condition, and certainly the scheme sounds well enough. Whether it is good in practice we cannot judge, but the experiment should certainly be tried in establishments where time and opportunity allow of such like investigations. There is no question that beers naturally impregnated with gas are superior in flavour to those artificially supplied, and this holds good in marked degree with bottled ales.
The Brewers' Journal vol. 35 1899, August 15th 1899, pages 484 - 485.

What's being described is clearly Obergäriges Lagerbier: stuff like Alt or Kölsch. Beers which, after an initial warm fermentation, are cold stored like a Lager. Did this experiment work? Given that Alt and Kölsch are still around, I'd say yes.

As a loyal CAMRA member, I'm gratified to see confirmation that natural carbonation is best. 

Not very Reinheitsgebot

German beer is renowned for its purity, right? That's not necessarily true.  As German brewers have been guilty of various dodgy practices in the past.

This report details some of the illegal practices which the makers of Malzbier got up to. Though it should be borne in mind that the article refers to practices in 1901 in Saxony. Where, at the time, the Reinheisgebot did not apply. It was only a few years later that the law was extended to the whole of Germany.

Beer Substitutes in Dresden.
In a report on the work of the Municipal Chemical Station of Dresden for the year 1901 Beythien states that the attention bestowed in the previous year on the various draught beers sold in Dresden having shown the existence of a satisfactory state of things in this connection, dispensed with the necessity of constant examination on the part of the station. On the other hand, the investigation of several kinds of sweetened malt extracts led to some curious revelations. In one case of a so-called wheat malt extract, chiefly consisting of sugar colouring, and used in the preparation of “malt beer,” the maker and 25 vendors of the bottled product were prosecuted for adulterating single beer, or diluted Kulmbacher beer, with saccharin. Another “sweet malt-beer” was found on analysis to contain 1.52 per cent. of alcohol and 5.64 per cent. of extract, and to consist merely of single beer qualified with sugar. It is stated that quite two dozen varieties of a similar nature are still being sold in the city. Another product of like character (“Methon”), and consisting of sugar solution, impregnated with carbonic acid and slightly scented, has been largely advertised as a “non-alcoholic beverage"; and the same claim has been advanced in connection with a “champagne beer" prepared by diluting and carbonising an essence containing 7.78 per cent, of alcohol and 15.8 per cent. of extract. The extract was found to consist chiefly of sugar colouring, the foam being produced by a substance believed to be identical with saponin.
The Brewers' Journal vol. 38 1902, October 15th 1902, page 626. 

These Malzbiers were supposed to be non-alcoholic, like the malt drinks that you find in some tropical countries today. And definitely weren't supposed to be watered-down and sweetened beer. Kulmbacher would certainly have needed a lot of watering down as it was usually at least 6.5% ABV.

Why would they be charged with adulteration for the addition of saccharin? Because even before the Reinheitsgebot its use in beer was banned in Germany. Which is ironic, given that the current version of the Reinheitsgebot does allow artificial sweeteners in some classes of low-alcohol beer.

 

 

Duesseldorf with Mikey (again) part two

[Slideshow]

1 PM - time for breakfast.

 

What to drink for breakfast? Alt.

Noodles for breakfast,

Time for some Uerige Alt.

That Alt didn't last long.

That's where  the Alt came from

 

A change of pace - Mikey's choice.

A baby barrel of Alt.

Drinking shots of Alt.

 

 

Duesseldorf with Mikey (again)

 [Slideshow]

 

My hotel room with Altbier decoration.

First port of call - Fuechschen.

Guess what we drank? Alt, of course.

Standing outside Fuechschen.

More Altbier at Zum Schlussel.

Haxe for one - I'm a hungry boy.

Bye, bye barrels of Altbier.

Going home in a cab. Mikey's legs have stopped working.

 

One night in Düsseldorf

"Do you fancy a trip to Düsseldorf, Ronald"

Trying to keep my cool, I reply: "That could be an idea." While in mt head I'm shouting "Yes, yes, YES!"

It takes Dolores a while to find the dates. Not being burdened by employment, we're pretty much 100% flexible. She has to balance when the hotel is cheapest with the best value train tickets. Eventually she finds a combination which only costs 150 euros for both of us. Bargain.

There was one remaining worry: would the trains run as scheduled. Dolores has had a lot of bad experiences recently with DB. Lots of late or even cancelled trains. DB's service has really turned to shit. It's depressing as they used to be so reliable.

The day doesn't start too well. When we get to the end of our street we wee that there's a big pile of sand where the tram stop is supposed to be. I can't imagine we'll be able to get on there. Fortunately, the previous tram stop isn't too far away. We manage to scramble to it just before our tram rolls up.

We don't have reserved seats. Which is a bit of a risk. Luckily I have Dolores with me. Who, from years of travelling on overcrowded Deutsche Reichsbahn, is an expert in elbowing her way to grab seats. It's not too difficult as the train isn't totally packed.

Obviously, I've brought a little something for the journey: fours cans of Gulpener Gladiator, first choice of the discerning street drinker. I've also brought along a plastic beaker. I'm not going to drink straight from a can. Only philistines do that. I'm civilised, me.

True to form, the train won't complete its full route to Franfurt, instead terminating in Düsseldorf. Which is handy for us. Not so handy if you have a connection in Frankfurt.

It's not a long journey. Only two hours something. It could be a lot faster, as the ICE barely gets out of second gear. It doesn't hit 200 kph once, mostly idling along at 140 kph. Or less.

Our hotel isn't far from the station. We're lucky and get a room at the back, which looks out over the end of the platforms. Trains constantly bustle back and forth along the myriad lines of track.

"Andrew would have loved it here as a kid. We could have just left him looking out of the window all day." Dolores isn't wrong. I'm tempted to do that myself.

But we can't dally. We have an appointment. A very important one. We've a table booked at Schumacher at 17:00. Why book a table? Dolores was here earlier in the year with her sister, and they couldn't get into Schumacher. So we're playing it safe.

On the way, we indulge in some light shopping, picking up a few bottles of beer. Though the Rewe Dolores wants to go to is being renovated. Leaving us with more walking than planned.

Once settled in Schumacher, we get stuck into some Alt straight away. It's very good. Light in the mouth, but sharply bitter on the way down. A couple of glasses soon disappear stomach-bound. 2.75 euros for a quarter litre. You'd be lucky to get an industrial Pils for that price in Amsterdam.

What to eat? I fancy Bratkartoffeln and a big chunk of pork. But the Schweinehaxe just comes with a roll and Sauerkraut. Dolores orders a dish with the spuds and I swap my roll and Kraut for them. Everyone's a winner.

My Haxe is full of meaty goodness. Really full of meaty goodness. Just as well I've an appetite. I haven't eaten since breakfast. Even so, there's a bout as much meat as I can manage in a sitting. Probably enough to last a Japanese family for a year.

We only have the table for two hours and can't hand around too long. The room fills up around us as we eat.

More shopping for the walk back. Though we have to walk in the opposite direction from our hotel to find an open Rewe. Where I get myself a bottle of hotel whiskey: Jim Beam.

I'm a bit knacked after more walking than I expected. Weighed down both by shopping and the kilo of pork in my belly. I sip on whiskey while Dolores flicks through the German channels. We only get five on the Amsterdam cable.

It's not that late a night. We have quite a lot to get through tomorrow. More shopping, Japanese food, train home. 

Brauerei Schumacher
Oststraße 123,
40210 Düsseldorf.
https://schumacher-alt.de

Bamberg

I’ve most of the day to myself. Giving me time to nip across to Bamberg. Cool. I don’t need to be back until the early evening,

First. Time for breakfast. We’ve committed to breakfast in the hotel again. It’s cheaper than at the last place. How will it stand up?

There’s nothing hot, other than tea and coffee. At least you get a pot of them. The cold cuts are rather sparse, too.

“They’re proper bakers’ rolls, at least.” Dolores says, slicing open an irregular brown roll.

“But no bacon. Breakfast isn’t breakfast without bacon.”

“Not worth the money.” Dolores always keeps a close eye on the budget.

With the new day, a wifi connection has appeared. I check my mail. I’m busy with arrangements for a trip to Chicago a couple of days after I get back from Germany.

I jump on a train just after midday. With a Private Eye and a special “cola” drink. I’ve made sure to take the one direct train an hour. It’s not that crowded, as it’s a Saturday. No Schoolkids.

It’s ages since I was last in Bamberg. 2013, when I was on an Annafest trip with Andrew. Even discounting two pandemic years, that’s a long time. With all the US trips I’ve been on, I couldn’t squeeze in long German visits.

Rumbling through the little towns and wooded hills of Franconia is very soothing. And thirst inducing. Just as well I came prepared.

First destination is Fässla. It’s easy to find from the station. At least that’s what I thought. I manage to go the wrong way. That’s ten minutes of pub time lost.

Fässla is quite crowded. I have to sit in the Schwemme. Not to worry. Soon there’s a Lagerbier in my hand.

It’s pretty good. Clean, simple and very drinkable. There’s a hint of tobacco in the flavour, I guess from German hops. Balanced and “süffig” as the Germans say.

Now here’s a beer that I’ve never been able to pigeonhole stylistically. Lagerbier. I get that’s just the strength – but why is it amber? Amber Lagerbier, I suppose. I just can’t think of any other examples.

Not much seems to have changed in the decade since I was last in Bamberg. At least in Fässla. They still have the fake barrels. They’ve always irked. Especially, as on my first visit they had real barrels.

After a couple of Lagerbiers, I move onto Zwergla, the Dunkles. Only bottled, sadly. To be honest, it’s not that different from Lagerbier. A little hint of dark malt, maybe. Or maybe not. It isn’t really scratching that Dunkles itch.

Looking back on my life, it’s a bit like the hero’s in Obyčejný život (An Ordinary Life), one of my favourite novels. Dull and ordinary mostly, but with odd special bits. Moments when I’ve been blown around by the winds of history. It could have been a lot worse.

My plan was to visit Spezial next. But can see the shutters are shut even before I leave Fässla. What the fuck? What pub closes early on Saturday afternoon? Time for Plan B. Where to go next?

This might sound like heresy. I decide it’s not worth walking all the way to Schlenkerla. It’s 3 PM and it will probably be packed. Plus, I have decent access to their beers. Much as I love the beer and pub, my time can be better spent.

Sternla is my choice. I whittled away a hot summer afternoon in their beer garden once. A happy memory. Since, a brewery has been installed. Two good reasons to drop by.

I only get a table because there’s a later reservation. It’s pretty lively. There’s a group of older blokes on the next table which is pretty excited. They must have been here a while.

The menu lists two of their own beers: Export and Märzen. Obviously, I go for the latter. 13º. I thought it had to be 13.5º to 14º in Bavaria. Have they changed the rules, or do I just have it wrong?

All academic, as it’s off. Export it is then. 12.8º Plato, 5.1% ABV Not just unfiltered, positively murky. Tastes OK. If a bit yeasty. I suppose that freshens it up. Maybe. It’s not long before a second appears. Well, after I ask for it. Not magically.

The middle-aged men on the next table are getting enthusiastically stuck into shots. Dangerously enthusiastically for a Saturday afternoon. Especially as he shots don’t seem to be dampening their enthusiasm for beer much.

I can’t have too many. I have a train to catch. Must get back to Kulmbach on time. I pick up a sarnie in the station. I've sort of forgotten to eat.



Brauerei Fässla
Ob. Königstraße 1921,
96052 Bamberg.
https://www.faessla.de/


Brauhaus Zum Sternla
Lange Str. 46,
96047 Bamberg.
http://www.sternla.de/

Kulmbach

After a bit of a deliberation, we bought breakfast when we checked in. Let’s see what it’s like.

Dolores goes first. She’s disappointed.

“They only have a couple of different sorts of meat and cheese. Not worth the money.”

But I can smell bacon. Around the back of the breakfast bar there’s one of those stainless-steel hot food thingies. In it are scrambled egg, bacon and sausages. I pile my plate with the first two.

“Where did you find that?”

“Around the back.”

For me, the breakfast is OK. Not great, but good enough. Dolores is distinctly less happy.

We trundle our trolley bags down to the station in time for a quick visit to Lidl. To take back some empties and stock up for the journey. Dolores is very well organised. I wait and guard the luggage. Luckily, seated in one of the few benches.

Our train is a fairly small diesel. And quite full. Just as well Dolores is with me to grab seats. She’s such a helpful travelling companion.

I’ve prepared a train drink. Cheap bourbon and diet cola. In a half litre cola bottle. Mmm. Warming.

“Don’t go crazy with that, Ronald. It’s strong.”

“When did I ever go crazy?”

You can guess what happened next.

The railway follows the Pegnitz. I’ve been down this way before. Years ago with Anti-American Mike.

“Look at that castle, Dolores.” It is dead impressive. It looks familiar. Then I spot the Kaiser brewery. In know where this is. It’s Neuhaus. Home to a Zoigl that isn’t called Zoigl. Doesn’t have a name at all, actually.

I say “is” home. Was would be more accurate. The communal brewhouse has been converted into a house. A shame, because it was a really good and distinctive beer. Though the flies in the beer garden were dead annoying.

We’re changing in Bayreuth. We arrive a little late, still with plenty of time to make the connection. The platform is packed with schoolkids. Who all tip onto the slightly larger diesel with us. I’m lucky to get a seat.

“Out in the sticks, the buses are mostly run for schoolchildren. Often me and Anti-American Mike were the only adults on the bus.”

“That must have been weird.”

“Well, I did feel a little self-conscious tucking into impulse Schnapps.” It didn’t stop me, though.

Picking the wrong way to walk to the hotel, we have to sprint over a main road with our bags. More excitement than I need. The hotel is over the road from the huge conical fermenters of the Kulmbacher Brauerei.

No matter hard we try, we can’t connect to the wifi network. Dolores has a word with the bloke on reception. Who gets a colleague to do some resetting. It doesn’t help. We give up and head into town.

It doesn’t take long. Kulmbach isn’t a large town. Dolores is slightly disappointed, despite it being fairly scenic.

“I expected it to be older.”

I can’t see what she’s complaining about. From the compact market place there’s a great view of the castle literally towering over the town. 

“Every town in Franconia has a castle.” I remark. At least that’s how it seems.

Pubs are thin on the ground. Fortunately, the bloke in the hotel gave Dolores a map, on which he marked the town’s few pubs.

One just off the market square, Zum Petz, is open. A couple of smokers are sitting outside. Inside, a couple of people are on the Stammtisch. Not very lively.

It’s a small, old-fashioned looking place, Like a miniature beer hall with leaded windows, panelled walls and pine-topped tables. Small, but perfectly formed.

Inevitably, the beer is from Kulmbacher Brauerei. In the form of Monschof. They do have Kellerbier, though. We order two. It tastes very fresh and the heavy carbonation creates an almost banked head. Better than I expected.

A tourist couple wanders in and orders food. Now we’re not totally alone, other than the landlord’s mates. Which is nice.

Dolores being keen to see a bit more of the town, we leave after just the one. Heading in the direction of another pub marked on the map. Off the market place, the streets are pretty empty. Scenic, but rather lifeless.

The town centre is mostly sort-of pedestrianised. It all looks like pavement, except occasional cars roll past. That’s nice and confusing.

Halfway down a somnolent street is another small pub, Zur Birke. It’s in a similar style to the last place. Not quite so worn in, mind. The wood hasn’t had time to turn to that lovely shade of dark brown. “Nappy brown” as our ancestors would have so colourfully described it.

The sign outside proclaims Kulmbacher, totally unsurprisingly. But when I ask the friendly waitress what they have on draught, she tells me that they have a Dunkles from Krug Bräu, a small brewery in the Fränkische Schweiz. Oooh, that sounds good.

It’s a seductive dark amber, with a fat fluffy head. It certainly looks the part. And it is. Packed with deep malt flavours.

“I’m pretty sure I’ve had this before, Dolores. Good, isn’t it?”

“Lovely.” Dolores is drinking the same as me for once. She does like a good beer. She is German, after all.

With an early evening appointment, there’s no time for a second beer. Which is a shame.




Restaurant Zum Petz
Langgasse 3,
95326 Kulmbach.


Gasthaus zur Birke
Fischergasse 17,
95326 Kulmbach.
https://www.zur-birke-kulmbach.de/

Nuremberg

Dolores hasn’t flown for a while. I imagine her slowly recalling all the little things that make flying so much fun. Like endless queueing and endless walking. We’re getting plenty of both.

At least we didn’t have to queue to get into the terminal. Like last time with the kids. What a pain in the arse that was. One reason we’re here more than four hours before departure. That and Schiphol advising to turn up at least three hours in advance.

No bags to check. I remember the piles of bags lying around all over the place last time I was here. But I do ask the priority check in agent where we need to go for security.  I show her our boarding cards so she can see our destination. Bad idea.

Seeing Dolores doesn’t have special status, she has to go through standard security. Fuck. They definitely didn’t use to do this.  Though they did in July when I travelled with the kids. What an annoying fucking policy.

“I should complain.” I tell Dolores. I really fucking should.

I ask another KLM person; “Where’s non-priority security? They won’t let my wife go through the priority lane.”

She rolls her eyes and says: “Those stupid people. Take the lift there. There probably won’t be any staff about at the top.”

Which turns out to be perfectly true.  It’s more crowded than usual. But nothing compared to the general side. Based on past bitter experiences, it looks like a 45-60 minute wait. So glad we dodged that one.

Being Schengen-bound, we dodge another queue. Passport control. For the first time, I’m packing only my Dutch one. Which feels a little odd. Never travelled without a UK passport.

An early arrival has a big upside: lots of time in the lounge.

“I wonder where it is? I usually go to the non-Schengen one.”

It’s not that difficult to find. Soon we’re inside and looking for seats. Not that easy, given how busy it is. I let Dolores take the lead. Years of train travel in the DDR honed her skills in elbowing through crowds and grabbing a seat.

“Reviews rate this lower than the other lounge.” I say.

“I can’t see much difference.”

“Me neither. Where’s the bar?”

After bringing back her wine, I tell Dolores: “There’s one big advantage this place has: self-service drinks. None of that “singles only” for me here. It’s trebles all round.”
“Don’t go crazy, Ronald.”

“When have I ever?”

“Hmmpfh” She makes that funny noise which somehow manages to convey contempt, pity, incredulity, scorn and a tiny hint of amusement.

I’m not impressed with the food. None of the hot stuff looks very appetising. On the other hand, I can pour myself as much whisky as I want. I know which lounge is the winner for me.

We lounge around for the hours until our flight. Nibbling at the odd bit of cold food. Quite relaxing. For an airport experience.

Like good little passengers, we troll up to our gate 30 minutes before scheduled departure. Which is still being shown “as scheduled” on the displays. Even though that’s clearly not true. The inbound aircraft hasn’t arrived. No way we’re leaving in half an hour.

It’s an hour. A win, in my book. I’ve had so, so much worse. Like the receding into the distance time, which gets two hours later for every hour that passes. Resembling a weird time disturbance that defies the laws of physics.

The flight is, like all flights, a limbo between two states of being. Outside, yet still filled with, time. A dull period needing to be endured. When I’m on my own. Now, I’ve got Dolores to chat with.

I get a diet cola, rather than a red wine, Dolores has a beer.

No checked in luggage and no passport control has us looking for the U-Bahn station. And it’s right there. Because this is Germany and they locate stations right next to the terminals.

Our hotel is just a couple of hundred metres from the main station. We’re leaving by rail tomorrow. It makes sense to be close to the station.

By the time we’re checked in and sorted out, it’s past seven PM.  Getting around food time. First, however, we pop back to the station. To the Lidl we spotted earlier. For drinks and stuff. I grab a couple of cans of Perlenbacher Strong Lager. Then notice some non-brand bourbon. And it’s under ten euros. I can’t pass that up.

Now it’s time to eat. There’s a brewpub directly opposite called Mautkeller. In this ancient building with a huge roof. I went there years ago. A fairly dull German brewpub, as I recall. Helles, Dunkles, Weizen. That sort of place. Now it’s owned by the large local brewery, Tucher.

The enormous vaulted beerhall basement seems much as I can remember it. Unless I’m just assuming it used to be similar. The structure, at least, much be unchanged. And that’s impressive.

I order an unfiltered Urbräu Helles, brewed on the premises. While Dolores has a Weissbier.

When they arrive, I realise my mistake. I didn’t point at the menu when I ordered. I just said “Urbräu Helles”. Turns out That’s also the name of the standard Tucher Helles. Not exactly exciting, but pleasant enough.

What else could I order but Nürnberger Bratwurst? You can get 6, 9 or 12. I choose the middle option. But contemplate a full dozen.

Half way through, I’m so glad I didn’t. The little buggers are more filling than you think. Nine have me stuffed. So stuffed, we only have the one beer.

We have an early night. Trains to catch tomorrow.



Tucher Mautkeller Nürnberg
Hallpl. 2,
90402 Nürnberg.
https://tucher-mautkeller.de/

Hop growing in the DDR (part 2)

As promised, more details on hop growing in the DDR.The fledgling industry got off to a slow start in the early 1950s, but by its final years had grown to a decent size.

It would be interesting to see figures for some later years. Because it looks like a plateau was reached in the 1960s. I must have a look in the later editions of Kunze.

There's a note which says that the harvests of 1956, 1960 and 1961 were badly affected by summer thunderstorms. Which I suppose explains the poor yield in those years. I wonder what happened in 1962? Where the yield was even worse than in 1960.

By the 1960s, had the DDR become self-sufficient in hops? Possibly. Hang on. I have the numbers. I have the quantity of beer brewed and I know what the hopping rates were.

The maximum hopping rates for the most popular styles, Vollbier Hell and Deutsches Pilsner, were 240 gm and 350 gm per hectolitre, respectively.The most heavily hopped style, Deutscher Porter, received a maximum of 650 gm per hectolitre. The average hopping rate couldn't have been more than around 300 gm/hl.

By 1959, the DDR was producing just shy of 100 gm of hops per hectolitre of beer brewed. Which by my calculations was around a third of their requirements. Did they eventually manage to achieve self sufficiency? We'll find out in a later post.

DDR beer and hop production 1951 - 1959
year	hl beer	kg hops	gm/hl
1951	5,739,556	0	0
1952	6,991,555	2,500	0.36
1953	8,390,848	29,500	3.52
1954	10,631,354	98,000	9.22
1955	11,772,064	335,000	28.46
1956	11,073,236	294,000	26.55
1957	12,955,326	691,000	53.34
1958	12,884,952	1,014,000	78.70
1959	13,659,064	1,327,000	97.15
Sources:
Brewers' Almanack 1962, page 54.
Technologie Brauer und Mälzer by Wolfgang Kunze, VEB Fachbuchverlag Leipzig, 2nd edition, 1967, page 43.

Here are the raw hop production figures:

Hop growing in the DDR 1951 - 1965
Year	Area in ha	Production in dt	Production per dt/ha
1951	0	0
1952	6	25
1953	45	295
1954	159	980
1955	444	3,350
1956	687	2,940	4.3
1957	875	6,910	7.9
1958	1,006	10,140	10.1
1959	1,150	13,270	11.6
1960	1,415	12,160	8.6
1961	1,705	9,810	5.8
1962	1,967	14,742	7.5
1963	2,090	26,550	12.7
1964	2,128	26,288	12.3
1965	2,135	20,200	9.4
Source:
Technologie Brauer und Mälzer by Wolfgang Kunze, VEB Fachbuchverlag Leipzig, 2nd edition, 1967, page 43.

 

Hop growing in the DDR (part 1)

One big problem facing the DDR brewing industry in its early days was a lack of locally-grown hops.

Hops had been grown on the territory of the DDR in the past, but by the middle of the 20th century, this was no longer the case. The remaining hop-growing regions were all in West Germany, mostly in Bavaria and Baden-Württemberg.

The answer was to start up hop growing again in the East.

"1.4.1. Growing areas
Due to the division of Germany after the Second World War, the traditional hop-growing areas in Bavaria and Baden-Württemberg were separated from the DDR. Previously, valuable foreign currency had to be spent on importing hops. In order to avoid this and to become independent in this area as well, in 1951 hops were again cultivated in the districts of Magdeburg - Halle - Erfurt - Suhl - Gera - Leipzig - Dresden - Karl-Marx-Stadt.

One could fall back on old experiences, since hops had already been grown here about 160 years before. In the meantime, the successes have shown that it is possible to grow hops in the southern districts of the Republic and that these hops are qualitatively equal to other noble hops.

With this in-house production, our trade also makes itself independent of the large price fluctuations to which hops are subject in capitalist countries as a result of yield fluctuations and other manipulations.

For example, it cost 1 dt of hops in West Germany

1957 800-900 DM,
1958 up to 2400 DM.

In 1959 prices were kept so low that production costs could not be covered. Quite a number of hop growers burned the unpicked crop because the cost of picking exceeded the selling price. During this period, 70 farms covering an area of ​​370 hectares were ruined every day in West Germany by these crises.

The agricultural policy of our state, on the other hand, ensures a planned increase in production in agriculture, the full sale of the products and thus increasing income for those employed in agriculture.

Since 1951, hop cultivation has developed vigorously in the southern districts of the republic, as the following tables show."
"Technologie Brauer und Mälzer" by Wolfgang Kunze, VEB Fachbuchverlag Leipzig, 2nd edition, 1967, page 43.

See how much better a planned economy is than capitalist anarchy? Look at those crazy hop prices. Obviously, such big increases in price would have been a big problem for the DDR, which had limited amounts of hard currency at its disposal.

As the text says, the new hop gardens were planted in the South and the East. Erfurt, Suhl and Gera are in Thuringen; Leipzig, Dresden and Karl-Marx-Stadt in Saxony; Magdeburg in Mecklenberg-Vorpommern; Halle in Sachsen-Anhalt.

Next time we'll see how many hops were grown and where.

 

Brewing Doppelkaramelmalzbier (part 2)

Exactly how did they get all that sugar into Doppelkaramel? remember, it was effectively doubling the OG of the beer. Which entails an awful lot of sugar.

"In the case of Doppelkaramelmalzbier, the finished drink must contain 6 kg (Fig. 259) of sugar per 1 hl of sales beer, based on an 11.7 to 12.2 percent pitching wort. This sugar is added in a concentrated aqueous solution as a sugar syrup before bottling. Since the syrup water means a dilution, Doppelkaramelmalzbier is blended to a higher gravity beforehand (7-8%). The mixing of the 7-8% beer with the syrup is done by repeated pressing between pressure tanks. At the same time, a few litres of thick mushy yeast are usually added to initiate fermentation again, which is intended to generate a higher carbon dioxide pressure in Doppelkaramelmalzbier.

Doppelkaramelmalzbier is not filtered but pasteurized.

Due to the addition of sugar, a lot of fermentable extract gets into Doppelkaramelmalzbier. If the remaining yeast and the added yeast could ferment this extract, all the bottles would burst due to the ever-increasing carbon dioxide pressure.

However, a slightly higher pressure produces a better foam (see p. 434). To generate this increased pressure, the temperature at the beginning of the pasteurisation is increased to 30-35°C for about 2-4 hours. Then it is heated to around 65°C, which stops further fermentation and carbon dioxide formation by killing off the yeast cells."
"Technologie Brauer und Mälzer" by Wolfgang Kunze, VEB Fachbuchverlag Leipzig, 2nd edition, 1967, pages 451 452.

6 kg per hectolitre is 60 gm per litre. That's a lot of sugar. I'll go out on a limb here and guess that the finished beer was pretty sweet.

I'm interested to see that fresh yeast was added along with the sugar. With all that sugar, fermentation must have started up pretty quickly. I was going to say that I wondered how long this fermentation was allowed to take place. But, from TGL 7764, I know the lagering time: 5 to 8 days. Is that before or after pasteurisation, though?

I'm left with one question? Who drank this stuff? And did they drink it straight or blend with another beer? Sorry, that's two questions. Where was it drunk? There, that's yet another question. My resident DDR expert couldn't answer them.

Brewing Doppelkaramelmalzbier (part 1)

A quick dive into "Technologie Brauer und Mälzer" has answered so many question about Doppelkaramel. How do you brew a 12º Plato beer with less than 2% ABV? It turns out that it's quite simple.

A surprising truth is revealed.

"6.1.2. Peculiarities in the production of Doppelkaramelmalzbier and Malzbier
Both beers are made in most breweries using the same process right down to the lager cellar.

Both beers are 6% dark beers; with the Doppelkaramelmalzbier, the higher gravity of up to 12% is later achieved by adding sugar.

The bulk contains 3-6% Farbmalz and often 6-8% caramel malt. Part of the colour is always achieved by adding caramel (see p. 92). The addition of hops is small (see TGL) and only serves to round off the taste.

There are several ways to achieve the wort concentration:

The brew is turned out with a gravity of about 6%; by reducing the grist, the brewhouse capacity decreases in fully utilized brewhouses. When using a mash filter a dummy plate must be fitted.

With a normal grist quantity, a wort of about 6% is knocked out; but it needs to be much more must be diluted to reach 6% in the cast wort. This amount exceeds the volume of the kettle, some breweries cook the extra amount in the mash kettle. However, this blocks the brewhouse for longer and water is boiled unnecessarily.

The brew is turned out with a gravity of 9-10%, as far as the pan volume allows. Water is then blended to about get the wort to 6% (reckoned in pitching wort) when transferring.

Benefits: Time savings in the brewhouse, vessel savings in the fermenting room, energy savings because the waste water is not boiled."
"Technologie Brauer und Mälzer" by Wolfgang Kunze, VEB Fachbuchverlag Leipzig, 2nd edition, 1967, page 451.

The surprising truth: Doppelkaramel and Malzbier were exactly the same until after fermentation. Both were fermented as a 6º Plato wort. The only difference is that Doppelkaramel had sugar added before bottling.

There were three options to getting the right strength wort:

1. Create a 6º while mashing by using half as much malt.

2. Use the normal amount of malt but water down to 6º in the kettle.

3. Create a wort of 9-10º Plato and water down to 6º when transferring to fermenters.

Obviously, option 3 was the most efficient use of the brewing equipment.

Handy to see the grist revealed:
 

Doppelkaramel grist
pilsner malt	66-71%
Farbmalz	3-6%
Caramel malt	6-8%
unmalted grain	20%