Showing posts with label wheat malt. Show all posts
Showing posts with label wheat malt. Show all posts

Friday, 7 May 2021

AK grists after WW II

We're nearly done. Just a couple more posts and that will be it for AK. At least for now.

I have been considering lumping all these posts and a few extra recipes into a book. Which I'd predictably call AK!. Would anyone be interested in that? It wouldn't be a huge book, probably only about 60 or 70 pages.

There's a surprisingly large number of malts represented: seven in all. Though no single beer contains more than four and most only a couple. Most is in the form of base malt, which isn't all pale malt, as you might expect.

Strong used a combination of PA malt, the best-quality pale malt and mild malt. The latter seeming to negate the former. Not sure why they'd go for that combination. The others all stick with trusty old pale malt, except for the 1967 iteration of Eldridge Pope, which includes a hefty amount of lager malt. 

Eldridge Pope's beer was the only one to use crystal malt. In the case of the 1982 version rather a lot, coming to almost 20% of the total grist.

AK grists after WW II
Date Year Brewer Beer pale malt PA malt mild malt black malt crystal malt lager malt
22nd Jan 1946 Shepherd Neame AK 84.87%     2.27%    
15th Jul 1947 Shepherd Neame AK 92.31%          
19th Mar 1952 Strong SAK   29.13% 55.34%      
3rd Jan 1964 Eldridge Pope BAK 76.49%       5.97%  
6th Jan 1967 Eldridge Pope BAK 49.86%       8.03% 19.39%
17th May 1982 Eldridge Pope BAK 74.19%       19.35%  
27th Jun 1984 Eldridge Pope BAK 70.00%       10.00%  
Sources:
Strong brewing record, number 79A01-A3-3-27.
Eldridge Pope brewing record.
Shepherd Neame brewing record held at the brewery.

Adjuncts next.

 

Thursday, 10 November 2016

Malted wheat and oats

Sorry about this. I never quite finished everything in "Brewing Theory and Practice" about grains. Just got distracted, as usual.

Though in a way it’s a good thing that I was delayed. Because I’ve since got my hands on more brewing records from the 1950’s. Where malts other than from barley do show up.

But I’ll let Jeffery talk first.

Malted Wheat and Oats
In addition to malt made from various types of barley, both wheat and oats can be malted. The former is difficult to put through the process because the acrospire grows outside the skin of the grain, and thus has no protection. Consequently, the malting of wheat is not a proposition favoured by maltsters. But when properly malted and used in mild ales, it imparts a fullness of flavour to the beer and also provides valuable feeding properties for yeast.”
"Brewing Theory and Practice" by E. J. Jeffery, 1956, pages 132 - 133.

OK, I think I get that. Wheat is difficult to malt, but it fills out Mild Ales nicely. Let’s take a look at actual practice. Flowers, a later Whitbread victim, used wheat in some of their beers. In 1955 they brewed nine different beers of which four received some wheat. But it wasn’t in the Mild Ale or Brown Ale. It was in their bottled Pale Ales. The percentage was pretty small, just 3% or 4% of the grist.

Let’s try another brewery. Shepherd Neame, they also dabbled in wheat. And in 1956 they also brewed nine beers, four of which contained malt. Once again, Mild wasn’t one of them. The four were Abbey Ale (a Strong Ale), Double Brown, Brown Ale and Light Dinner Ale. Interestingly, all bottled beers again. The proportion in the grist was again below 5%.

In the 1960’s, Eldridge Pope had malt wheat flour in pretty well all their grists: Bitter, Old Ale, Mild Ale, Brown Ale and Strong Ale. Only Lager and Stout received none. And when they first brewed Hardy Ale in 1967, that too contained wheat malt flour. Quite a lot of it, at over 10% of the grist.

I can’t make any sense out of that. Two breweries seem to have used it just for bottled beers, the third for just about everything. In the case of the first two, my guess is that the main purpose of using wheat, especially given the small quantities, was head retention. At Eldridge Pope the amounts are too large for that to be the reason. In the case of Hardy Ale it may be to keep the colour pale.

Will malted oats make any more sense?

“Malted oats are used as a minor blend in the production of stout, whence comes the name 'oatmeal stout'. They certainly provide and add to the nourishing value of stout, and supply useful nutrition for yeast. Such nutrition is much needed when roasted and black malts are in use, as the latter are practically devoid of nutriment. Oat malts have an extremely low diastase, but as the proportion used is very small, this is of no great importance.”
"Brewing Theory and Practice" by E. J. Jeffery, 1956, page 133.

Let’s see if Jeffery is any more accurate in the use of malted oats. Shepherd Neame did, indeed, use it in an Oatmeal Stout. Though, because of the way they parti-gyled, that meant it also ended up in some of the PA, a Bitter. Again, it was about 4% of the grist.

When Maclay brought back their Oat Malt Stout in 1966, obviously the grist included malted oats. Maclay were pioneers of the style in the 1890’s and, just like the early versions, the grist in the 1960’s had a high percentage of oats, around 30%. Which was even more than in 1909, when it was 25%.

Whitbread brewed an Oatmeal Stout until 1950. In contained a tiny amount of malted oats, less than 1% of the grist. This was typical of London brewers who would use just a token amount of oats.

A little earlier than Jeffery, large quantities of malted oats were consumed by British brewers. But that was during WW II when they were forced to by the government after a bumper crop of oats one year. Brewers hated it and dropped it again as soon as they could.

Saturday, 25 October 2014

Brewing in WW II (part five)

We're still on grains. But I promise we'll get onto a more exciting topic soon. Like hops. You young people love you your hops. Not like us boring old twats.

This is great. The article discusses the increased use of unmalted grains during the war. Why is that brilliant? Because I have some great numbers on brewing materials. Ones I've been saving until now.

"The use of flaked barley became general quite early in the war as a malt adjunct, and as no restriction was placed on its use it helped to increase output. It was found to be readily converted in the mash tun and, as time has proved, when not used in excess, has had no directly deleterious effect on the beers, although it was not used at first without some misgivings on the part of the brewer. It increases the bulk of the mash, however, and when output was of so much moment some brewers replaced it by finely ground barley without any noticeable difference (cf. J. L. Baker, ibid., 1942, 109). Although a small proportion of the nitrogen constituents of flaked barley are rendered soluble in the mash tun it contributes but little yeast feeding material to the wort and therefore acts as a diluent to that contributed by the malt. This was a drawback in those breweries whose average gravity was low, although it certainly helped to correct and reduce the difficulties consequent on the use of poor quality malts."
Journal of the Institute of Brewing Volume 52, Issue 3, May-June, 1946, page 121.

There were two reasons why the government was keen on using unmalted barley: it saved on both fuel and labour. You can see how the usage of adjuncts increased during the war years:

Brewing materials (cwt)
year malt unmalted corn rice, maize, etc sugar total malt & adjuncts
1938 9,378,888 78.31% 14,194 0.12% 688,086 5.75% 1,894,773 15.82% 11,975,941
1939 9,884,803 78.35% 9,910 0.08% 734,771 5.82% 1,986,478 15.75% 12,615,962
1940 9,857,838 83.81% 7,912 0.07% 363,588 3.09% 1,532,776 13.03% 11,762,114
1941 10,988,413 86.90% 11,897 0.09% 246,757 1.95% 1,397,642 11.05% 12,644,709
1942 10,918,102 85.54% 52,646 0.41% 382,207 2.99% 1,411,422 11.06% 12,764,377
1943 10,287,322 79.34% 40,592 0.31% 1,238,183 9.55% 1,400,573 10.80% 12,966,670
1944 10,621,168 78.88% 143,183 1.06% 1,241,121 9.22% 1,458,647 10.83% 13,464,119
1945 10,435,212 75.63% 245,751 1.78% 1,332,032 9.65% 1,784,064 12.93% 13,797,059
1946 9,976,998 76.53% 137,750 1.06% 1,132,748 8.69% 1,790,021 13.73% 13,037,517
1947 9,454,253 80.37% 92,974 0.79% 614,335 5.22% 1,601,186 13.61% 11,762,748
Source:
Brewers' Almanack 1955, page 62.


By the 1944 and 1945, the proportion of unmalted adjuncts was around 10% of the total - about double what it had been in 1938. While sugar fell from around 15% of the total pre-war to 10%. While the amount of malt itself increased in the middle war years. By the look of it to compensate for a reduction in the amount of sugar available.

But brewers were later forced to use an even less popular ingredient: flaked oats

"Early in 1943, when the shipping position became difficult owing to the intensified U boat activity, barley was required for use in bread, and brewers were asked to replace flaked barley by flaked oats, but there were some misgivings about its use on account of its high fat content. A series of investigations was carried out to prove its suitability in order to satisfy brewers that they could be used with safety; 10 per cent, was considered a safe maximum. Owing to its huskiness flaked oats had the advantage of improving drainage in the mash tun, although, owing to its bulkiness, those brewers working with a full mash tun found it to be a disadvantage. A bad oat harvest in the following year, however, caused its use in brewing to be discontinued. The Ministry of Food then suggested that flaked oats might be replaced by dried potatoes, the drying plants in beet sugar factories used for drying the exhausted beet slices being utilized for this purpose. Investigations carried out with potatoes dried in this manner, however, proved them to be quite unsuitable for use in brewing owing to the unpleasant flavour imparted to the beer, and as the anticipated surplus of potatoes did not materialize, flaked barley was again used to replace flaked oats, and has continued up to the present time."
Journal of the Institute of Brewing Volume 52, Issue 3, May-June, 1946, page 121.

Potatoes have been used in brewing. I've published a 19th-century recipe for potato Broyhan. So it is possible. I wonder if the Broyhan also suffered from a nasty flavour?

It's easiest to see the move to unmalted grains at Whitbread, because before the war they used no adjuncts, only malt and sugar. The first sighting of flaked barley is on 10th October 1941 in a brew of XX Mild Ale*. Significantly, IPA and PA brewed a few days later contained none. On 28th May 1942, in addition to flaked barley, barley meal and flaked rye is in the grists**. By now the adjuncts are in all Whitbread's beers.

In April 1943 flaked oats replaces all the other adjuncts***. The in February 1944 Whitbread switched back to using flaked barley****. You can see that Whitbread had little control over their grists but had adjunct them according to government policy and which raw materials were available.

Whitbread also occasionally used wheat malt. These tables should give a good impression of the decisions Whitbread had forced on them during the war years:

Whitbread Mild Ale 1938 - 1947
Date Year Beer OG FG ABV App. Atten-uation lbs hops/ qtr hops lb/brl boil time (hours) boil time (hours) Pitch temp
25th Feb 1938 X 1035.3 1010.0 3.35 71.67% 7.44 1.11 1.25 1.25 65º
26th Sep 1939 X 1033.9 1010.5 3.10 69.03% 8.27 1.11 1.25 1 65º
25th Apr 1940 X 1033.5 1008.5 3.31 74.63% 8.12 1.12 1.25 1 65º
20th Nov 1940 XX 1031.1 1010.0 2.79 67.85% 8.42 1.07 1.17 0.75 66º
10th Oct 1941 XX 1031.2 1009.0 2.94 71.15% 6.38 0.76 1.25 1.25 65º
30th Jan 1942 XX 1029.1 1007.5 2.86 74.23% 5.84 0.75 1 1 65º
30th May 1942 XX 1028.4 1007.0 2.83 75.35% 6.19 0.75 1 1 65º
5th Apr 1943 XX 1027.8 1008.0 2.62 71.22% 6.07 0.76 1 1.25 65º
22nd Feb 1944 XX 1028.5 1009.0 2.58 68.42% 5.79 0.69 1 0.75 65º
4th Apr 1945 XX 1028.2 1009.0 2.54 68.09% 5.63 0.70 1 0.75 65º
12th Sep 1946 XX 1027.3 1008.0 2.55 70.70% 6.02 0.71 1 1 65º
3rd Jan 1947 XX 1027.5 1005.5 2.91 80.00% 6.02 0.68 1 0.75 65º
Sources:
Whitbread brewing records held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document numbers LMA/4453/D/01/105, LMA/4453/D/01/107, LMA/4453/D/01/108, LMA/4453/D/01/109, LMA/4453/D/01/110, LMA/4453/D/01/111, LMA/4453/D/01/112, LMA/4453/D/01/114.


Whitbread Mild Ale grists 1938 - 1947
Date Year Beer OG pale malt crystal malt MA malt PA malt no. 3 sugar other sugar wheat malt flaked barley barley meal flaked rye flaked oat
25th Feb 1938 X 1035.3 72.97% 12.46% 13.05% 1.52%
26th Sep 1939 X 1033.9 75.73% 13.59% 9.06% 1.62%
25th Apr 1940 X 1033.5 24.30% 13.08% 54.21% 4.98% 1.56% 1.87%
20th Nov 1940 XX 1031.1 81.42% 11.63% 6.95%
10th Oct 1941 XX 1031.2 65.39% 11.98% 4.99% 4.99% 5.66% 2.00% 4.99%
30th Jan 1942 XX 1029.1 12.02% 68.11% 4.01% 1.84% 2.00% 12.02%
30th May 1942 XX 1028.4 46.32% 12.63% 16.84% 5.61% 1.75% 2.11% 8.42% 1.05% 5.26%
5th Apr 1943 XX 1027.8 9.28% 10.31% 55.67% 5.50% 1.72% 17.53%
22nd Feb 1944 XX 1028.5 10.45% 71.08% 4.18% 1.74% 12.54%
4th Apr 1945 XX 1028.2 7.38% 62.21% 9.84% 3.70% 16.87%
12th Sep 1946 XX 1027.3 7.85% 75.14% 10.47% 2.06% 4.49%
3rd Jan 1947 XX 1027.5 7.79% 81.26% 8.91% 2.04%
Sources:
Whitbread brewing records held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document numbers LMA/4453/D/01/105, LMA/4453/D/01/107, LMA/4453/D/01/108, LMA/4453/D/01/109, LMA/4453/D/01/110, LMA/4453/D/01/111, LMA/4453/D/01/112, LMA/4453/D/01/114.


There's only one constant in the grist: crystal malt. Not even mild malt and No. 3 invert sugar, staples of Dark Mild brewing, appear in every beer. When things were starting to get back to normal in 1947, Whitbread reverted to a grist of base malt, crystal malt and sugar.

Next time the excitement begins. We'll be looking at hops.







* Whitbread brewing record held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document number LMA/4453/D/01/108.
** Whitbread brewing record held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document number LMA/4453/D/01/109.
*** Whitbread brewing record held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document number LMA/4453/D/01/110.
**** Whitbread brewing record held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document number LMA/4453/D/01/111.

Sunday, 17 January 2010

Oat Mild

I'm currently up to my nostrils in Whitbread. Unfortunately, not Whitbread beer but brewing records are lapping my upper lip. It's all part of my current crazy plan. I would tell you about the project. But I'm the secretive type.

1943. That's where I am. 1943 Ale logs. 5th April, to be precise. At least you can't accuse the wartime logs of being boring. (OK, I'm sure the vast majority of the world's population wouldn't share my fascination. But you know what I mean.) Not like early 19th-century brewing records, where you find lists of ingredients like this:

200 quarters malt
800 pounds hops.

No, the wartime logs include all sorts of exciting ingredients like wheat malt, flaked rye, barley meal. And flaked oat. Not all in the same beer, I hasten to add. I'd read in a brewing magazine that the government encouraged brewers to use oats. Bad news for the porridge industry. And brewers. They weren't very keen on oats, for a variety of reasons.

The XX Mild log that caught my eye is reproduced above. Or at least the grist part. Look at all those flaked oats. 34 quarters of them. Or somewhere around 15% of the grist. (I'd tell you more precisely, but I don't have the weight of a quarter of flaked oats to hand.) Is it me, or is that an awful lot of oats?

It looks to me like a new style. Oat Mild. Or has someone already made one? (Just checked. Yes they have.)

Tuesday, 18 November 2008

More malt 1920-1939

Malt again. Apologies for being so repetitive. I'm making slow progress through "Brewing Science & Practice" by H. Lloyd Hind.

No jokes today. I can't think of anything funny to say about malt. If you can, let me know. There'll be lots more about malt in the months to come. Sounds like a threat, doesn't it?



Black malt
This was produced by roasting malt which had already been kilned in a revolving cylinder over gas jets. The aim was to roast the grains evenly and to avoid carbonising any. In practice, it was quite tricky to achieve. The carmelisation desired occurred at 445º F, but at just a slightly higher temperature, 480º F, carbonisation began.

Black malt was a standard ingredient in Stouts, but was also used in some other dark beers. Though not all brewers used black malt in their Stouts. Whitbread used chocolate malt and brown malt instead.


Roast Barley
When raw grain was roasted in a cylinder the result was roasted barley. This, like black malt, was mostly used to colour Stout. The flavour was not as rich as that of black malt, though it did aid head retention.


Amber malt
Two methods were used in the final stages of making amber malt, when the temperature was increased suddenly to darken its colour. One was roast it in a cylinder, similar to the way black malt was produced. The other was to use a kiln, raising its temperature by adding oak battens to the fire. This process gave the malt an empyreumatic (burnt) flavour considered superior to that of malt made using the cylinder method.

A small of diastatic activity was sometimes still present in amber malt. (Source: "Brewing Science & Practice" H. Lloyd Hind, 1943, page 275.) Diamber was a type of amber malt manufactured in such a way that it still retained most its diastatic power, around 26º Lintner.

There was a considerable variation in the colour of amber malt and some overlap between the darker versions and lighter types of brown malt.


Brown malt
As with amber malt, brown malt could be finished in a kiln or in a cylinder. The main differences with amber malt were a generally darker colour and a complete destruction of the diastase. Brown malt was falling out of favour, though London brewers still used it in their Porter and Stouts.


Crystal or caramel malt
Unlike roasted malts such as amber, brown and black, where kilned malt was heated in a revolving cylinder, crystal malt was made from green malt which had not been kilned. The malt was heated gradually to a temperature of 150º to 170º which liquefied the inside of the grain. As te process continued and the temperature rose higher, the grains began to roast. After two or three hours the grains were removed from the cylinder and as they cooled, the inside of the grains cystalised.

A far larger amount of sugar formed in grains, with maltose amounting for as much as 50% of its weight. Due to the presence of water in the grains, something similar to mashing, with the enzymes coverting starch to sugar, took place.

The colour of crystal malt varied even more than amber malt, as you can see in the table below.


Lager malt
There were two types of lager malt: pale and dark. The former, called Pilsen malt, had a colour of 2º Lovibond and a diastatic activity of 60-85º Litner. Dark Munich malt had a colour of 7-10º Lovibond and a diastatic activity of 30º Litner. Both types were made in Britain as well as being imported from the continent. Continental lager malts tended to have higher a nitrogen content and be less well-modified than British malts. The extract yielded was also slightly poorer.

Rather surprisingly, lager malt sometimes turns up in brewing logs. Not just in Lagers, but in British styles, too. As, at around 64/- a quarter, it was one of the most expensive malts, seeing it used in Mild is quite a shock.


Barclay Perkins September 11th 1936 XX, X
Amber____________3,68%
crystal____________4,82%
Dereham Californian__19,53%
Lager Kulmbacher____5,86%
Dereham MA________36,12%
Dereham MA NXOB___6,83%
Maize_____________12,86%
Garton No. 3 sugar____10,29%

Barclay Perkins had begun brewing lager in the 1920's and built a special brewhouse for that purpose. I suppose that explains why they would have lager malt lying around the brewery. Still odd to see it used in a Dark Mild, though.



Wheat malt
Because of the delicate nature of the grains, it was difficult to malt wheat without damaging them. As a consequence wheat malt tended to be under-modified and cause clarification and stability problems. For these reasons, it wasn't much used in Britain. Sometimes small amounts were added to the grist to aid head retention, something which still happens today with some Bitters.


Malted oats
Many Stouts contained a small proportion of malted oats. The amount was usually pretty small - often less than 1% of the grist. This wasn't just limited those beers called Oatmeal Stout. Most Barclay Perkins and Whitbread Stouts contained some oats. "Oat malt is used, mainly in oat malt stouts, for its flavour and nutritive properties." Given the miniscule amounts of oats employed, it's hard to see how they could add much flavour or nutrition.




Malt extract
Wort produced from very lightly cured malts was reduced in a vacuum pan to produce a concentrated syrup. Most malt extracts had a very high degree of diastatic activity, as much as 350º Lintner. They were used by brewers in a variety of ways. Of course, they were a source of fermentable material, but their high diastatic activity could also be of use in grists high in adjuncts.

Malt extract could be added either in the mash tun or in the kettle. Non-diastatic malt extract, added in the copper, aided head retention.