I talk to Charles Guerrier some more about beer in Asia.
Time for the second lot of DDR slides. Lots of tables. I love tables. Especially ones stuffed full of lovely, plump numbers.
A note about the hop growing. The first hops were planted in 1950 by Sudeten Germans expelled from Bohemia. Initially the hops were all Saaz. In the 1960s, Northern Brewer was introduced and eventally accounted for around 90% of the cultivated area.
You may have seen my video report on my day out in Rotterdam. Here's the boring, old wordy version.
Mostly, I judge in exotic places: Brazil, Chile, Singapore. Rarely in Europe. Even in my country of residence. Why is that? Because I rarely get invited and don't go hunting invitations. As I do for bits of South America I'd like to visit.
The last couple of years I have been invited to the Dutch Beer Challenge. And, despite it being in Rotterdam, I have accepted. Though, living in Amsterdam, I do feel obliged to slag off Rotterdam every now and again. It's part of our culture. Having said that, Rotterdam was the first city I lived in when I moved to Holland. When was that? Way back in the 1980s. Almost forty years ago. Where does the time go?
Thankfully, I can get to Rotterdam without needing to go into the centre of Amsterdam.Which I always try to avoid, if I can. It being a pure tourist hellhole currently. Even better, from Amsterdam Zuid I can get a fast train. One that uses the high-speed line. Saving me a massive 15 to 20 minutes.
Amsterdam Zuid is busy. Unsurprisingly, as it's commuting time. I'm in plenty of time for my train, giving me a chance to inspect how the rebuilding of the station is coming along. The new platforms for the metro look about done. While the train platforms are still very much under construction. I'm just looking forward to when the motorway is put underground. Currently, the platforms are jammed inbetween the tow carriageways. Leaving the impression of standing in the central divider of the motorway. Noisy traffic rushing past on either side.
The train is packed. Though I mange to grab a seat after Schiphol. I used to travel quite a lot by train. Not for work, but at the weekend. Dragging the kids on outings to all corners of the Netherlands. Including dragging them into pubs for a few frenetic drinks before bundling them back onto the train. Now they're older, these excursions have finished. And most of my travel is much further afield.
The No. 1 tram takes me through the incoherent jumble of the city centre and its "iconic" architecture to the east of the city. Where more fragments of the city's past erupt between the shiny modern blocks. My destination is the stadium of Excelsior, Rotterdam's third football club. At least it isn't Fejenoord.*
Judging is taking place in the bar inside one of the stands. Plenty of judges are already there when I arrive. Including quite a few I know. Not from Holland. Rather from judging in South America. I'm such a jet-setter. There's time for some chatting before the work starts.
I'm on a table with one Belgian and three Dutch judges. Meaning much of our discussions are in Dutch. Which is novel for me. It's usually English all the way when I'm judging.
We're on a lucky table and kick off with a flight of 17 non-alcoholic beers. My favourite. How often do I drink non-alcoholic beers voluntarily? Never. Only when I'm judging. If I don't want an alcoholic drink, I'll go for something else. Though I might consider an alcohol-free Catharina Sour.
They are improving, non-alcoholic beers. Clearly the technology has advanced considerably in the last 25 years. They even manage to taste pretty much like beer. Most of them.
We trundle along at a decent pace, getting through two-thirds of our allocated beers before lunch. Making the afternoon quite relaxed. Giving us plenty of time to savour the Barley Wines and Pastry Stouts. Finishing in plenty of time.
When judging is done, a bus whisks us off to De Koperen Kat brewery in Delft. In an industrial area to the south of the centre. We're early and have to hang around outside for a while.
It's a new brewery to me. Showing how terribly out of touch I am with the Dutch beer scene. It occupies a small corner of a much larger industrial building. Compact is how I would describe it.We're given a beer to keep our hands busy while we're given a short introduction to the brewery.
I get chatting to a very interesting bloke who works for Westmalle. And another who worked for several decades at Rodenbach. Always fun to meet new people. Especially ones from iconic Belgian breweries.
Our evening meal is very, er Dutch. For me, broodje kroket and chips. What can I say? It's filling.
I'm recommended D'oostPorter. Which is a Porter, surprisingly. A rather strong one, at 8.5% ABV. And rather nice. So nice, that I drink four of them. Full of roasty goodness.
The bus calls in at Delft station before heading back to Rotterdam. I get off there, as it's closer to home.
Finding the station entrance is a challenge. The station has been moved underground and the old building is now a restaurant. The new station is hidden under a council building. And has a very Alphaville vibe.
It's quite a while until the next train to Amsterdam Centraal. Luckily, there's one earlier going to Venlo via Schiphol. Calling at Amsterdam Zuid.
When I'm almost home, there's a sound of breaking glass behind me. Something has been thrown - or shot - at the bus, shattering a window. The couple sat behind me, right next to the break, look pretty shaken up. The bus pulls up just before the next stop, and we're told to wait for the next bus. Fortunately, it's my stop. No need to wait for another bus.
What was that? I don't think a stone, as there wasn't one inside the bus. My guess is an air rifle pellet.
What an unusual end to the day.
* My Dutch team is Sparta, the other Rotterdam club. For various complicated and irrelevant reason which I won't go into here.
Delftse Stadsbrouwerij De Koperen Kat
Schieweg 15,
2627 AN Delft.
https://www.dekoperenkat.nl/
The video report.
| 1995 Youngs DD | ||
| pale malt | 9.50 lb | 95.00% |
| crystal malt 150 L | 0.50 lb | 5.00% |
| Fuggles 108 min | 2.00 oz | |
| Goldings 10 min | 0.50 oz | |
| OG | 1043 | |
| FG | 1009.5 | |
| ABV | 4.43 | |
| Apparent attenuation | 77.91% | |
| IBU | 30 | |
| SRM | 11 | |
| Mash at | 151º F | |
| Sparge at | 165º F | |
| Boil time | 108 minutes | |
| pitching temp | 62º F | |
| Yeast | WLP002 English Ale | |
Listen to brewer John Hatch explain how they brewed at Youngs in the 1990s.
Egypt (ship supply port Port Said), Bulgaria, West Germany (West Berlin, Edeka, RPL Hamburg), Burma, Denmark, Finland, France, Greece, Guinea, Italy, South Yemen, Canary Islands, Cuba, Libya, Mali, Morocco, Mozambique, Netherlands, Austria, Sweden, Soviet Union, Spain, Tanzania, USA, North Vietnam.
Die Brau- und Malzindustrie in Deutschland-Ost zwischen 1945 und 1989, VLB, 2016, page 150.
That's quite a mix. Some socialist countries in Europe and beyond, Western Europe, Africa nad even the USA.
You'll note that Czechoslovakia wasn't on the list of export destinations. But I'm sure it would have been on a list of import sources. The only imported beer I can remember seeing waas Czech. Mostly in the form of Pilsner Urquell.
| DDR beer production, imports and exports (1,000 hl) | ||||
| Year | production | imports | exports | balance |
| 1955 | 11,772 | 144.6 | ||
| 1960 | 13,424 | 88.8 | 129.6 | 40.8 |
| 1965 | 13,633 | 78.1 | 158.8 | 80.7 |
| 1970 | 16,642 | 80.4 | 167.7 | 87.3 |
| 1976 | 207.9 | 353.7 | 145.8 | |
| 1980 | 23,633 | 204.4 | 400.7 | 196.3 |
| 1985 | 24,288 | 25.0 | 562.9 | 537.9 |
| 1987 | 26.0 | 522.1 | 496.1 | |
| 1988 | 24.6 | 528.5 | 503.9 | |
| 1989 | 24,843 | 34.3 | 538.9 | 504.6 |
| Average | 91.41 | 373.7 | 282.2 | |
| Source: | ||||
| Die Brau- und Malzindustrie in Deutschland-Ost zwischen 1945 und 1989, VLB, 2016, pages 300 and 301. | ||||
I go to Rotterdam to judge the Dutch Beer Challenge. By train and tram. It's so much fun.
| Youngs beers in 1990 | ||
| Beer | Style | OG |
| Exp | Pale Ale | 1066.8 |
| JYLL | Lager | 1037.8 |
| LA | Pale Ale | 1030.8 |
| ON | Barley Wine | 1086.8 |
| PA | Pale Ale | 1036.8 |
| PL | Pilsner | 1047.8 |
| Porter | Porter | 1040.8 |
| SPA | Pale Ale | 1046.8 |
| Winter Warmer | Strong Ale | 1055.8 |
| Source: | ||
| Young's brewing record held at Battersea Library, document number YO/RE/1/59. | ||
| 1995 Youngs Ram Rod | ||
| pale malt | 10.75 lb | 92.83% |
| crystal malt 150 L | 0.50 lb | 4.32% |
| No. 3 invert sugar | 0.33 lb | 2.85% |
| Fuggles 70 min | 1.25 oz | |
| Goldings 10 min | 0.50 oz | |
| OG | 1051 | |
| FG | 1010.5 | |
| ABV | 5.36 | |
| Apparent attenuation | 79.41% | |
| IBU | 31 | |
| SRM | 12.5 | |
| Mash at | 150º F | |
| Sparge at | 165º F | |
| Boil time | 70 minutes | |
| pitching temp | 62º F | |
| Yeast | WLP002 English Ale | |
Listen to brewer John Hatch explain how they brewed at Youngs in the 1990s.
| Brauerei Potsdam-Rehbrücke output in 1988 | ||
| type | hl | % |
| Vollbier Hell | 40,000 | 5.34% |
| Pilsner | 444,200 | 59.26% |
| Spitzenbier | 21,300 | 2.84% |
| Spezialbier | 118,000 | 15.74% |
| Pilsator | 99,900 | 13.33% |
| Heller Bock | 10,500 | 1.40% |
| Dunkler Bock | 9,200 | 1.23% |
| Märkischer Landmann | 6,500 | 0.87% |
| total | 749,600 | |
| Source: | ||
| Die Brau- und Malzindustrie in Deutschland-Ost zwischen 1945 und 1989, VLB, 2016, page 269. | ||
"Until 1956, the Radeberger Export Brewery produced all types of beer, from Malzbier (6%), Vollbier Hell (10.5%), and Pilsner (12%) to Bockbier (16%). From 1956 onwards, only Radeberger Pilsner was produced."
Quite early, then, that they concentrated on producing Pilsner.
In the second table you can see that very little leaked out to the general public. Around three-quarters was either exported abroad, or reserved for special use internally. Interhotels were the hotels where foreigners stayed. The SED (Socialistische Einheitspartei Deutschlands) was the ruling communist party. The Palace in Berlin was the Volkspalast, the DDR parliament building.
One of the surprises in the book was how much tank beer there was in the DDR. Something I never noticed.
| Radeberger Production and Sales | ||||
| Year | Hectolitres | of which Export | total | |
| in bottles | in casks | |||
| 1946 | 125,000 | 125,000 | ||
| 1951 | 144,678 | 144,678 | ||
| 1956 | 274,880 | 120 | 275,000 | |
| 1960 | 155,820 | 83,180 | 35,547 | 239,000 |
| 1961 | 174,823 | 72,419 | 19,552 | 247,242 |
| 1968 | 135,000 | 139,000 | - | 274,000 |
| 1972 | 168,235 | 145,000 | - | 313,235 |
| 1976 | 202,566 | 137,559 | - | 340,125 |
| 1980 | 258,178 | 134,305 | - | 392,483 |
| 1984 | 262,746 | 177,452 | - | 440,198 |
| 1988 | 291,601 | 157,736 | - | 449,337 |
| Source: | ||||
| Die Brau- und Malzindustrie in Deutschland-Ost zwischen 1945 und 1989, VLB, 2016, page 150. | ||||
| Radberger sales by destination in 1988 | |
| destination | hl |
| Radeberger Pilsner Export for foreign markets 3) amounting to: | 177,213 |
| Radeberger Pilsner Export for the domestic market for all Interhotels, special customers (e.g., Soviet Army), and central customers (government and SED Central Committee) amounting to: | 141,450 |
| Radeberger Pilsner (Pilsator) | 110,500 |
| Radeberger Tank Beer for restaurants in the region and the Palace in Berlin | 20,174 |
| Total: | 449,373 |
| Source: | |
| Die Brau- und Malzindustrie in Deutschland-Ost zwischen 1945 und 1989, VLB, 2016, page 150. | |
| Diamant Brauerrei Magdeburg output in 1960 | |||
| Beer | OG º Plato | hl | % |
| Einfachbier dunkel | 6 | 12,024 | 5.20% |
| Vollbier Hell | 11.5 | 170,990 | 74.01% |
| Deutsches Pilsner | 13 | 37,561 | 16.26% |
| Weißer Bock | 16 | 4,686 | 2.03% |
| Deutscher Porter | 18 | 1,474 | 0.64% |
| Doppelkaramelbier | 12 | 4,304 | 1.86% |
| Average/Total | 11.6 | 231,039 | |
| Source: | |||
| Die Brau- und Malzindustrie in Deutschland-Ost zwischen 1945 und 1989, VLB, 2016, page 253. | |||
| 1990 Youngs Porter | ||
| pale malt | 6.75 lb | 70.90% |
| roast barley | 0.50 lb | 5.25% |
| crystal malt 150 L | 1.50 lb | 15.76% |
| glucose | 0.50 lb | 5.25% |
| molasses | 0.25 lb | 2.63% |
| caramel 2000 SRM | 0.02 lb | 0.21% |
| Fuggles 60 min | 2.25 oz | |
| OG | 1041 | |
| FG | 1012 | |
| ABV | 3.84 | |
| Apparent attenuation | 70.73% | |
| IBU | 29 | |
| SRM | 29 | |
| Mash at | 149º F | |
| Sparge at | 165º F | |
| Boil time | 60 minutes | |
| pitching temp | 59º F | |
| Yeast | WLP002 English Ale | |
Listen to brewer John Hatch explain how they brewed at Youngs in the 1990s.
Another video of Franconia more than a decade ago. Just shows how long it takes me to get around to doing things. Like editing video. Still, better late than never.
In the video I visit Ebermannstadt, Aufseß and Bamberg.
"As early as 1950, hop growers from the Bohemian growing region planted the first hops in Thuringia (Gustav Dießl in Wasserthaleben and Franz Puls in Clingen)."
Die Brau- und Malzindustrie in Deutschland-Ost zwischen 1945 und 1989, VLB, 2016, page 60.
These men were Sudeten Germans expelled from Czechoslovakia. They seem to have played a crucial role in training a new generation of hop farmers:
"Especially at the beginning of planting, under the difficult conditions of the time, such as a shortage of hop vines, lack of knowledge, and insufficient technical resources, experienced practitioners and many new hop pioneers dedicated themselves to this crop. Crucial to its successful development was the experience and personal commitment of many hop growers from Bohemia who saw their ambition in creating something new. They passed on their knowledge to interested hop masters who had decided to cultivate hops and were furthering their education at the agricultural college in Naumburg."
Die Brau- und Malzindustrie in Deutschland-Ost zwischen 1945 und 1989, VLB, 2016, page 60.
Unsurprisingly, given the background of the hop-pioneers, the type of hop initially grown was Saaz. Had these refugee hop-growers brought sets of Saaz with them, or had they been imported through official channels? I'd love to know.
Officials wanted to find a suitable hop variety to introduce as standard. But were struggling. Then, in 1962, at a hop congress in Warsaw, conversations with a UK hop-grower led to the import of 2,000 Northern Brewer cuttings the following year. In 1964, cultivation began at ten locations.*
"During tours of a renowned export brewery, the hop masters, as visitors, were annoyed when it was said: "The top quality of the beer is based on the fact that we have our own wells and only use imported malt and Saaz hops!" At the Leipzig Trade Fair in 1966, during a consultation with foreign trade officials, it was revealed that 25 tons of Hallertau hops had been imported, while approximately twice that amount of Saaz hops from our own harvest had been delivered. This absurdity was justified by claiming that the imported Saaz hops from the previous year had too few bittering substances and that the ultrasonic treatment carried out in the brewery in question did not result in any savings. This jeopardized the allocation to the engineering budget. Since even the expensively purchased Hallertau hops had a lower alpha acid content, good advice was hard to come by. Therefore, the brewery was offered and used an initially anonymous batch of hops with 6.8 percent alpha acids. Suddenly, they couldn't get enough of this hop."
Die Brau- und Malzindustrie in Deutschland-Ost zwischen 1945 und 1989, VLB, 2016, page 62.
From there, Northern Brewer went from strength to strength. Asd no more cuttings could be imported gfrom the UK, a programme of cutting production was introduced to cover demand. Ultimnately, almost 90% of the cultivated area was dedicated to Northern Nrewer.**
What an interesting story. I'd assumed that the hops grown in the DDR would have been German or Czech types. Weird that they were English variety.
* Die Brau- und Malzindustrie in Deutschland-Ost zwischen 1945 und 1989, VLB, 2016, page 61.
** Die Brau- und Malzindustrie in Deutschland-Ost zwischen 1945 und 1989, VLB, 2016, page 62.
Buy a signed paperback edition of the Homebrewer's Guide to Vintage Beer. For locations inside Europe.
Buy a signed paperback edition of the Homebrewer's Guide to Vintage Beer. For the USA, Canada, Australia and other locations outside Europe.
Make your birthday special - by brewing a beer originally made on that date.
For a mere 25 euros, I'll create a bespoke recipe for any day of the year you like. As well as the recipe, there's a few hundred words of text describing the beer and its historical context and an image of the original brewing record.
Just click on the button below.