In the 1990s, Youngs brewed a wide range of beers. Including some which weren’t very traditional. At least, not traditional British styles. This wheat beer being a good case in point.
It’s a rather odd beer. Exactly what type of wheat beer were they aiming for? The coriander is very much Witbier rather than Weizen. And using lager yeast to ferment it is very much against the Reinheitsgebot, which only allows wheat in top-fermenting beer. On the other hand, it’s fermented warm, despite using lager yeast. I’m confused.
The grist is pretty simple, just lager and wheat malt. With slightly more of the former. So, sort of Reinheitsgebot. Except for the lager yeast, obviously.
Half of the coriander was added to the kettle, the other half to the hop back. Not sure why there were the two additions. Interestingly, there was only one hop addition, at the start of the boil. A single type of English hops was used.
Time for the second lot of DDR slides. Lots of tables. I love tables. Especially ones stuffed full of lovely, plump numbers.
A note about the hop growing. The first hops were planted in 1950 by Sudeten Germans expelled from Bohemia. Initially the hops were all Saaz. In the 1960s, Northern Brewer was introduced and eventally accounted for around 90% of the cultivated area.
You may have seen my video report on my day out in Rotterdam. Here's the boring, old wordy version.
Mostly, I judge in exotic places: Brazil, Chile, Singapore. Rarely in Europe. Even in my country of residence. Why is that? Because I rarely get invited and don't go hunting invitations. As I do for bits of South America I'd like to visit.
The last couple of years I have been invited to the Dutch Beer Challenge. And, despite it being in Rotterdam, I have accepted. Though, living in Amsterdam, I do feel obliged to slag off Rotterdam every now and again. It's part of our culture. Having said that, Rotterdam was the first city I lived in when I moved to Holland. When was that? Way back in the 1980s. Almost forty years ago. Where does the time go?
Thankfully, I can get to Rotterdam without needing to go into the centre of Amsterdam.Which I always try to avoid, if I can. It being a pure tourist hellhole currently. Even better, from Amsterdam Zuid I can get a fast train. One that uses the high-speed line. Saving me a massive 15 to 20 minutes.
Amsterdam Zuid is busy. Unsurprisingly, as it's commuting time. I'm in plenty of time for my train, giving me a chance to inspect how the rebuilding of the station is coming along. The new platforms for the metro look about done. While the train platforms are still very much under construction. I'm just looking forward to when the motorway is put underground. Currently, the platforms are jammed inbetween the tow carriageways. Leaving the impression of standing in the central divider of the motorway. Noisy traffic rushing past on either side.
The train is packed. Though I mange to grab a seat after Schiphol. I used to travel quite a lot by train. Not for work, but at the weekend. Dragging the kids on outings to all corners of the Netherlands. Including dragging them into pubs for a few frenetic drinks before bundling them back onto the train. Now they're older, these excursions have finished. And most of my travel is much further afield.
The No. 1 tram takes me through the incoherent jumble of the city centre and its "iconic" architecture to the east of the city. Where more fragments of the city's past erupt between the shiny modern blocks. My destination is the stadium of Excelsior, Rotterdam's third football club. At least it isn't Fejenoord.*
Judging is taking place in the bar inside one of the stands. Plenty of judges are already there when I arrive. Including quite a few I know. Not from Holland. Rather from judging in South America. I'm such a jet-setter. There's time for some chatting before the work starts.
I'm on a table with one Belgian and three Dutch judges. Meaning much of our discussions are in Dutch. Which is novel for me. It's usually English all the way when I'm judging.
We're on a lucky table and kick off with a flight of 17 non-alcoholic beers. My favourite. How often do I drink non-alcoholic beers voluntarily? Never. Only when I'm judging. If I don't want an alcoholic drink, I'll go for something else. Though I might consider an alcohol-free Catharina Sour.
They are improving, non-alcoholic beers. Clearly the technology has advanced considerably in the last 25 years. They even manage to taste pretty much like beer. Most of them.
We trundle along at a decent pace, getting through two-thirds of our allocated beers before lunch. Making the afternoon quite relaxed. Giving us plenty of time to savour the Barley Wines and Pastry Stouts. Finishing in plenty of time.
When judging is done, a bus whisks us off to De Koperen Kat brewery in Delft. In an industrial area to the south of the centre. We're early and have to hang around outside for a while.
It's a new brewery to me. Showing how terribly out of touch I am with the Dutch beer scene. It occupies a small corner of a much larger industrial building. Compact is how I would describe it.We're given a beer to keep our hands busy while we're given a short introduction to the brewery.
I get chatting to a very interesting bloke who works for Westmalle. And another who worked for several decades at Rodenbach. Always fun to meet new people. Especially ones from iconic Belgian breweries.
Our evening meal is very, er Dutch. For me, broodje kroket and chips. What can I say? It's filling.
I'm recommended D'oostPorter. Which is a Porter, surprisingly. A rather strong one, at 8.5% ABV. And rather nice. So nice, that I drink four of them. Full of roasty goodness.
The bus calls in at Delft station before heading back to Rotterdam. I get off there, as it's closer to home.
Finding the station entrance is a challenge. The station has been moved underground and the old building is now a restaurant. The new station is hidden under a council building. And has a very Alphaville vibe.
It's quite a while until the next train to Amsterdam Centraal. Luckily, there's one earlier going to Venlo via Schiphol. Calling at Amsterdam Zuid.
When I'm almost home, there's a sound of breaking glass behind me. Something has been thrown - or shot - at the bus, shattering a window. The couple sat behind me, right next to the break, look pretty shaken up. The bus pulls up just before the next stop, and we're told to wait for the next bus. Fortunately, it's my stop. No need to wait for another bus.
What was that? I don't think a stone, as there wasn't one inside the bus. My guess is an air rifle pellet.
What an unusual end to the day.
* My Dutch team is Sparta, the other Rotterdam club. For various complicated and irrelevant reason which I won't go into here.
Now this is a confusing one. A Pale Ale with a brevity about halfway between Ordinary and Special Bitter. What the hell was it? What was it called? Was it cask, keg or packaged?
The batch size was much smaller than for the standard draught beers, only 92 barrels, compared to 400 barrels or more. So clearly not one of their biggest sellers.
The grist is significantly different from the two draught Bitters, being all malt. There’s no flaked torrefied barley and no sugar. Also, no enzymic malt, which is interesting. Instead, it’s just pale and crystal malt.
The hops, however, are exactly the same as in the other Pale Ales: three English types. Though they are boiled for a little longer, 108 minutes rather than 70 minutes. In this case, I’ve only had to increase the hopping rate by about 25% to attain the bitterness level in the brewing record.
1995 Youngs DD
pale malt
9.50 lb
95.00%
crystal malt 150 L
0.50 lb
5.00%
Fuggles 108 min
2.00 oz
Goldings 10 min
0.50 oz
OG
1043
FG
1009.5
ABV
4.43
Apparent
attenuation
77.91%
IBU
30
SRM
11
Mash at
151º F
Sparge at
165º F
Boil time
108 minutes
pitching temp
62º F
Yeast
WLP002 English Ale
Listen to brewer John Hatch explain how they brewed at Youngs in the 1990s.
During the brief life of the DDR, beer production increased considerably. Beer export, too. Which I find somewhat more surprising.
Between 1955 and 1989, the quantity of beer produced more than doubled. Though that growth does seem to have stagnated in the 1980s. The same is true of exports, which grew rapidly in the 1960s and 1970s. Ending up - at the end of the DDR - at half a million hectolitres annually. Quite impressive. And around 2% of the beer produced.
Where was all this beer going? Luckily, I do know. At least for Radeberger. Which, as it was one of the leading export breweries, should give us a good idea of the destinations for DDR beer exports in general.
Egypt (ship supply port Port Said), Bulgaria, West Germany (West Berlin, Edeka, RPL Hamburg), Burma, Denmark, Finland, France, Greece, Guinea, Italy, South Yemen, Canary Islands, Cuba, Libya, Mali, Morocco, Mozambique, Netherlands, Austria, Sweden, Soviet Union, Spain, Tanzania, USA, North Vietnam. Die Brau- und Malzindustrie in Deutschland-Ost zwischen 1945 und 1989, VLB, 2016, page 150.
That's quite a mix. Some socialist countries in Europe and beyond, Western Europe, Africa nad even the USA.
You'll note that Czechoslovakia wasn't on the list of export destinations. But I'm sure it would have been on a list of import sources. The only imported beer I can remember seeing waas Czech. Mostly in the form of Pilsner Urquell.
DDR beer production, imports and exports (1,000
hl)
Year
production
imports
exports
balance
1955
11,772
144.6
1960
13,424
88.8
129.6
40.8
1965
13,633
78.1
158.8
80.7
1970
16,642
80.4
167.7
87.3
1976
207.9
353.7
145.8
1980
23,633
204.4
400.7
196.3
1985
24,288
25.0
562.9
537.9
1987
26.0
522.1
496.1
1988
24.6
528.5
503.9
1989
24,843
34.3
538.9
504.6
Average
91.41
373.7
282.2
Source:
Die Brau- und Malzindustrie in Deutschland-Ost zwischen 1945
und 1989, VLB, 2016, pages 300 and 301.
I spend a lot of time staring at brewing records. Osmosis. That's how I extract most information.
Doesn't always work.
I bang on about the influence of taxation on beer. It's one of my things. That make me feel like I'm dead clever. Until I meet an actual expert. Time, then to walk off before I look like the idiot I am.
Harking back to the first sentence, how I came to understand brewing records is a bit of a mystery. To me. There was some backup from historical texts. Lots of staring in incomprehension, too. Then stuff making sense.
I won't claim to understand 100% of most records I have. Only the dead simple ones. Yet this really obvious observation had avoided me. Especially given my tax obsession.
This observation, in my defence, was complicated by the different ways of measuring beer gravity. Many breweries used the older method. Measuring gravity in pounds per barrel. While the new taxation system, introduced in 1880, used original gravity.
This new tax system was based on the gravity of the wort before fermentation. Measured in specific gravity, not pounds per barrel.
When I write my recipes, I always round the OG. Because they're almost never a round number. Despite brewers, especially those parti-gyling, being able to hit the same OG every time.
The Youngs beers in the 1990s almost all have gravities ending in .8º. Coincidence? I think not.
It's all about the taxation system. Which was based on the OG before fermentation. For tax purposes, they were rounding down. So Ordinary's 1036.8º was, for tax purposes, 1036º. It might seem trivial, but, with the high taxation of the UK, this could add up to a shitload of money.
I've seen the same thing at other breweries. How the hell did I not notice until now?
Youngs beers in 1990
Beer
Style
OG
Exp
Pale Ale
1066.8
JYLL
Lager
1037.8
LA
Pale Ale
1030.8
ON
Barley Wine
1086.8
PA
Pale Ale
1036.8
PL
Pilsner
1047.8
Porter
Porter
1040.8
SPA
Pale Ale
1046.8
Winter
Warmer
Strong Ale
1055.8
Source:
Young's brewing record held at Battersea Library, document
number YO/RE/1/59.
For some reason, there’s no Ram Rod – at least as far as I can find – in the 1990 Youngs brewing book. Perhaps they were just bottling Special Bitter as Ram Rod. As quite often the two beers had the same gravity.
That’s not the case here, as this version of Ram Rod has an OG 4º higher than Special. And quite a high degree of attenuation that leaves it pushing 5.5% ABV.
There’s not a great deal to the recipe. Just pale, crystal and enzymic malt, and some sugar. There were four types of pale malt, as was usual at Youngs. The sugar was something called FS5. Not sure what that is. But, as earlier No. 3 invert was used in the same way, I’ve substituted that.
Three types of hops were used. All English. Sadly, with no indication of variety or vintage. I’ve had to almost double the quantities to hit the bitterness level recorded in the brewing record.
1995 Youngs Ram Rod
pale malt
10.75 lb
92.83%
crystal malt 150 L
0.50 lb
4.32%
No. 3 invert
sugar
0.33 lb
2.85%
Fuggles 70 min
1.25 oz
Goldings 10 min
0.50 oz
OG
1051
FG
1010.5
ABV
5.36
Apparent
attenuation
79.41%
IBU
31
SRM
12.5
Mash at
150º F
Sparge at
165º F
Boil time
70 minutes
pitching temp
62º F
Yeast
WLP002 English Ale
Listen to brewer John Hatch explain how they brewed at Youngs in the 1990s.
The division of Germany caused many problems. In Potsdam, it was one of beer supply. Before the war, the area had mostly been served by breweries in West Berlin. Local breweries, which were small and old-fashioned, were unable to meet local demand. And breweries in East Berlin didn't have the spare capacity to supply Potsdam.
In the mid-1960s, local breweries were only able to produce about 50% of the beer consumed in Potsdam. Therefor it was decided to construct an entirely new brewery in Rehbrücke. It was supposed to start production in 1971. However, due to problems in obtaining the machinery, it didn't actually start production until 1981.
This is one of the few places in "Die Brau- und Malzindustrie in Deutschland-Ost zwischen 1945 und 1989" where there are some numbers for the output of different beer types. And it's very different from what we saw at the Diamant brewery of Magdeburg in 1960. Where three-quarters of their output was Helles.
In Potsdam, Pilsner was king, accounting for over 50% of production. And that's just the standard Pilsner. If you include Pilsator and Spezial, that increases to 88%. While Helles was a mere 5%. Did this represent a change in the relative popularity of the different styles? Or was Potsdam just specialising in Pilsner? I suspect a bit of both. It could also be a regional thing, as I remember Berlin pubs mostly sold Pilsner, not Helles.
Interestingly, three strong beers were brewed: pale and dark Bock and Märkischer Landmann.
I can remember drinking Potsdam Rex Pilsner, as it did seem to be available in Thüringen. At least in some outlets. I think in Delikat shops. It was a decent enough Pils.
Brauerei Potsdam-Rehbrücke output in 1988
type
hl
%
Vollbier
Hell
40,000
5.34%
Pilsner
444,200
59.26%
Spitzenbier
21,300
2.84%
Spezialbier
118,000
15.74%
Pilsator
99,900
13.33%
Heller Bock
10,500
1.40%
Dunkler Bock
9,200
1.23%
Märkischer
Landmann
6,500
0.87%
total
749,600
Source:
Die Brau- und Malzindustrie in Deutschland-Ost zwischen 1945
und 1989, VLB, 2016, page 269.
My new favourite book "Die Brau- und Malzindustrie in Deutschland-Ost zwischen 1945 und 1989" might be a bit light on information about the actual beer brewed in the DDR. It does still have some numbers. Lovely numbers.
For example, those we'll be looking at today. Which are for the Radeberger brewery. Which, along with Wernesgrüner, was one of the main export breweries in the DDR. Meaning that they were allocated the best quality materials. And, for at least the export beer, brewed to the Reuinheitsgebot.
I was fairly surprised to see that they were already brewing in 1946. In some parts of Germany they didn't resume brewing until 1948 or 1949. For example, in the British occupied zone, the only brewing allowed for several years after the end of the war was for the British army.
Output was rising constantly. Not that surprising, given the generally improving economic conditions. And the fact that the brewery was given preferential treatment.
There seems to be a mistake in the figures in the book. The numbers under bottled beer seem to actually be total output. I know that because the 1988 figures are broken down by destination and the total comes to 449,337 hl. Which is the number given as bottled beer output in the first table. I've adjusted the figures in the first table accordingly.
There's a note to the first table that says:
"Until 1956, the Radeberger Export Brewery produced all types of beer, from Malzbier (6%), Vollbier Hell (10.5%), and Pilsner (12%) to Bockbier (16%). From 1956 onwards, only Radeberger Pilsner was produced."
Quite early, then, that they concentrated on producing Pilsner.
In the second table you can see that very little leaked out to the general public. Around three-quarters was either exported abroad, or reserved for special use internally. Interhotels were the hotels where foreigners stayed. The SED (Socialistische Einheitspartei Deutschlands) was the ruling communist party. The Palace in Berlin was the Volkspalast, the DDR parliament building.
One of the surprises in the book was how much tank beer there was in the DDR. Something I never noticed.
Radeberger Production and Sales
Year
Hectolitres
of which Export
total
in bottles
in casks
1946
125,000
125,000
1951
144,678
144,678
1956
274,880
120
275,000
1960
155,820
83,180
35,547
239,000
1961
174,823
72,419
19,552
247,242
1968
135,000
139,000
-
274,000
1972
168,235
145,000
-
313,235
1976
202,566
137,559
-
340,125
1980
258,178
134,305
-
392,483
1984
262,746
177,452
-
440,198
1988
291,601
157,736
-
449,337
Source:
Die Brau- und Malzindustrie in Deutschland-Ost zwischen 1945
und 1989, VLB, 2016, page 150.
Radberger sales by destination in 1988
destination
hl
Radeberger
Pilsner Export for foreign markets 3) amounting to:
177,213
Radeberger
Pilsner Export for the domestic market for all Interhotels, special customers
(e.g., Soviet Army), and central customers (government and SED Central
Committee) amounting to:
141,450
Radeberger
Pilsner (Pilsator)
110,500
Radeberger
Tank Beer for restaurants in the region and the Palace in Berlin
20,174
Total:
449,373
Source:
Die Brau- und Malzindustrie in Deutschland-Ost zwischen 1945
und 1989, VLB, 2016, page 150.
My new favorite book, "Die Brau- und Malzindustrie in Deutschland-Ost zwischen 1945 und 1989", is packed full of information. Loads of stuff about the organisation of the industry, raw materials, research and all sorts of technical information. But almost nothing about the beer produced.
When I first heard about the book I had two thoughts. That it could provide loads of information for my putative book on DDR beer. And that it might make my book redundant. On closer observation, it became clear that the focus of my book would be very different.
To my surprise, the VLB book doesn't even cover the standards documents, such as TGL 7764, which define the characteristics of each type of beer. While I lean very heavily on these documents. As well as Kunze's "Technologie Brauer und Mälzer", another of my favourite books.
In the section describing individual breweries in the VLB book, there is sometimes a mention of the beers brewed. Though, in many cases, it doesn't seem to be an exhaustive list. The most useful is for the Diamant brewery in Magdeburg. Which, very usefully, seems to be a full list and gives the quantities brewed.
Unsurprisingly, as it was the most popular style, most of the beer brewed by Diamant was Helles. Almost three-quarters of their output, in fact. A long way behind, in second place, was Pilsner. Those two beers combined accounted for 90% of the beer produced. In third place was Einfachbier Dunkel, with just a 5% share.
The two strong beers, Bock and Porter, were produced in very small quantities. Between the two of them, only around 6,000 hl were brewed. Less than 3% of total output.
The average gravity of all the beer Diamant brewed was 11.6º Plato. Just a shade over the gravity of Helles. That's around 1046º. Which is 9º higher than average UK gravity at the time. Which I find interesting.
How typical was the Diamant brewery? It's hard to say. Some breweries, such as those brewing for export, were more specialised, producing primarily, or even exclusively, Pilsner. These numbers do, at least, give us an idea of what a reasonably-sized regional brewery was brewing.
Diamant Brauerrei Magdeburg output in 1960
Beer
OG º Plato
hl
%
Einfachbier
dunkel
6
12,024
5.20%
Vollbier
Hell
11.5
170,990
74.01%
Deutsches
Pilsner
13
37,561
16.26%
Weißer Bock
16
4,686
2.03%
Deutscher
Porter
18
1,474
0.64%
Doppelkaramelbier
12
4,304
1.86%
Average/Total
11.6
231,039
Source:
Die Brau- und Malzindustrie in Deutschland-Ost zwischen 1945
und 1989, VLB, 2016, page 253.
Now here’s a real oddity: a London Porter. I can remember when Youngs introduced this beer and being dead excited. Not sure how long they brewed it for. I don’t think it was for very long. I recall drinking it once, but it being in terrible condition.
When Fullers introduced a Porter of their own somewhat later, they went for a pre-WW I gravity of 1050º. While Youngs seem to have opted for a lower gravity. I was going to say interwar strength, but in the 1930s, Youngs Porter was only 1035º. They seem to have pulled the 1041º gravity out of the air.
The recipe is quite similar to Oatmeal Stout. Except there’s crystal malt instead of flaked oats. It’s quite a simple recipe, really. Just pale and crystal malt, roast barley and Young’s Special Mix sugar.
There was only one type of hop: English, from the 1988 harvest. And, as far as I can tell, only one hop addition at the beginning of the boil.
1990 Youngs Porter
pale malt
6.75 lb
70.90%
roast barley
0.50 lb
5.25%
crystal malt 150 L
1.50 lb
15.76%
glucose
0.50 lb
5.25%
molasses
0.25 lb
2.63%
caramel 2000
SRM
0.02 lb
0.21%
Fuggles 60 min
2.25 oz
OG
1041
FG
1012
ABV
3.84
Apparent
attenuation
70.73%
IBU
29
SRM
29
Mash at
149º F
Sparge at
165º F
Boil time
60 minutes
pitching temp
59º F
Yeast
WLP002 English Ale
Listen to brewer John Hatch explain how they brewed at Youngs in the 1990s.
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The Session: Where I'm/It's At.
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Well, it has been a while. Since there was a proper Session. Since I wrote
a thing on this blog. Glad to be prodded. I think about blogging often, but
the...
Iron Hill Newtown: At Long Last
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I live near Newtown, Pennsylvania. I tend to tell people I live in Philly;
if they're familiar with it, I say northern suburbs; if they ask where, I
usuall...
Why Are Brewing and Winemaking so Different?
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On their surfaces the fermentations of beer and wine seem like they should
be similar. A cool, sugary liquid is inoculated with *Saccharomyces
cerevisiae* ...
Hello roaring 20's
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I've been having a day of reflection and contemplation in order to evaluate
where we are with the business at the close of 2019 and trying to formulate
som...
The News You've All Been Waiting For
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When I published the second edition of the Guide, the plan was to wait a
year or two and start working on a third edition, or at least an update,
but it di...
Nu over 200 danske bryggerier
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Med 206 er der rekordmange bryggerier i nyere tid i Danmark, viser
Beerticker analyse for Bryggeriforeningen. Ved årtusindskiftet var der blot
12 bryggerie...
Letting go
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It is often difficult to accept defeat. Indeed, when one has been working
on something for a long time it can be almost impossible to actually make
that fi...
The Oakwood and Me
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“He awakens from this dream unable to remember exactly what it was, or much
at all beyond the simple fact that he has dreamed about being a child
again. …H...
Goodbye
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I never realised this was still active.
However due to the untimely demise of the creator of the site I feel it is
inappropriate to to keep it going.
The ...
Save the Greys!
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*Save the Greys! Local community bids to purchase famous Brighton music
venue*
*The following press release is courtesy of Phil Mellows*
Pub-goers have l...
I just believe in beer
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(With apologies to John Lennon) Beer is a concept By which we swallow our
pain I’ll say it again Beer is a concept By which we swallow our pain I
don’t b...
Caxton Inn / XX Inn, River Street
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Caxton Inn, River Street, Hulme, 1921. (c) Bob Potts [1]. The Caxton Inn
was a Carlton Brewery house that stood on the corner of River Street and
Welcomb S...
Brooklyn Comes To Dalston
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Brooklyn Brewery are on the road again, taking their 'Mash' concept out to
nine countries. This week, they've been in London, with events like a DIY
dinner...
Albany Ale: Chico and The Man
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Stan is currently working on his forthcoming book *Brewing Local, *and
he's been kind enough to inquire about Albany Ale for the project. We've
been emaili...
Czech Christmas Beers in 2015
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What a difference a few years — okay, eight years — makes. When Beer
Culture relaunched as a weblog from its original newspaper column back
in 2007, almost...
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ALL in united states
World T0ur. With the Statue of Liberty as a national icon, the United
States is widely known as the Land of Liberty. Over the last fe...
Yes, Anheuser-Busch InBev Hates Your Beer.
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Since its emergence on the North American beer scene in the 1980s and, in
force, in the 1990s, what is commonly called ‘craft beer’ has cost the big
brewer...
Att hantera negativ kritik
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För några månader sedan beställde jag ca 20 öl från nya svenska
hantverksbryggerier som jag inte testar förut. Vilken kväll det blev! Jag
vaskade mer än pr...
Pub Interiors
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Recently, I had beery evenings over three successive nights that took in
three very different kinds of pub, almost a tour of London’s pub history in
a way....
Lager arrives after WW II
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Still on the hiatus from blogging (is nearly three years still a hiatus?),
there’s some great stuff being blogged about the origins of the lager boom
in th...
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*Froth! * The Science of Beer
Mark Denny
2009, HB, 183pp
The Johns Hopkins University Press
£13.50 delivered from Amazon
Reviewed July 2012
Mark Den...