Macbeth comes to Manchester (part two)

Beer Nouveau as an easy stroll from our hotel. All we need to do is follow the railway line running from Manchester Piccadilly.

It takes us along the ironically named Temperance Street. Which is Beer Nouveau’s official address. As we’re walking down the, to be perfectly honest, rather desolate street, I hear someone call ”Ron” behind me.

It’s Matt Thompson, a fellow blogger who will be attending the event*. He gets me to pose below a Temperance Street sign. I can’t imagine why.

When we arrive at the brewery, there are already a few people there, sampling the historic beers that have been brewed for the occasion. It’s more Shilling Ales, though not the same ones as in Macclesfield.

Steve Dunkley, the man in charge at Beer Nouveau, quickly puts a beer in my hand. Steve has been doing some interesting things with wooden casks. Putting beer in them, mostly, which I guess doesn’t sound that interesting. But it is when you have exactly the same beer served from a plastic cask using a beer engine and by gravity from a wooden cask. I wouldn’t have believed what a difference it could make, had I not experienced it myself.

I’m pleased to say that a few brewers have taken an interest in oak casks. Definitely something to watch out for. Who said SPBW was irrelevant?

I’ve time for a few beers while I wait for the final stragglers to show up. Which I’m not going to complain about. That was, after all, one of the points of setting this whole trip up: getting to drink beers from historic recipes. How else would I get the chance?

Happily there’s a projector for me this time. Makes life much easier. I positively rattle through the talk, finishing in just 2 hours 45 minutes. That’s a full 15 minutes quicker than yesterday. Maybe some editingis needed before I take it to the US later in the month.

We have a few more drinks when I’m done talking before trailing back to our hotel. I finish off more of bottles that I’ve acquired. Can’t take them on the plane is my excuse.


* You can read Matt’s account of the event here:

http://whenmyfeetgothroughthedoor.blogspot.nl/2017/04/macbeth-in-manchester.html



Beer Nouveau
Temperance Street Brewery
75 North Western Street,
Manchester, M12 6DY.
http://beernouveau.co.uk



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Let's Brew Wednesday - 1933 Barclay Perkins Milk Stout

Can you believe that there are still Barclay Perkins brewing records that I haven’t processed yet? But it’s true. Somehow I got stuck in the late 1920’s and never even got to the early 1930’s records.

This beer is in one of the unprocessed sets. It’s not made any simpler by the fact that Barclay Perkins had several brewing books at this point: one for their main brewery, one for the Lager plant and one for their small-batch brewery. Milk Stout was made in the latter.

Which tells me straight off that they weren’t selling a huge amount of Milk Stout. This batch was just 18.75 barrels. At a time when they were brewing their standard Mild in batches of 500 barrels or more. So clearly not a huge seller at this point.

I’m not sure what happened later, as it doesn’t turn up it the next small batch brewing book. Looking at analyses, the OG was lower in the later 1930’s, around 1048. Which is suspiciously similar to the OG of London Stout. My guess is that they simply added lactose at racking time to some of that.

The grist is pretty complicated, with four malts plus roasted barley. Barclay Perkins were unusual in that sense. Most London brewers went for black or chocolate malt. Given the percentages, you have to wonder if the amber malt was diastatic. Unusually for a Barclay Perkins beer there’s no flaked maize. Perhaps just as well, given the small percentage of base malt.

For once the hop additions aren’t a guess. There are three types of hop, Fuggles, Worcester and Goldings, with two added “at inch” and the rest after an hour. I take “inch” to mean when the copper was filled with wort.

I’ve upped the FG and OG by 3 points to account for the “Milk Stout sugar” primings added at racking time. These had at OG of 1150º and were added at the rate of two gallons per barrel. I’m taking this to be some sort of proprietary sugar that was mainly lactose*. I’ve upped the lactose amount accordingly.


* It handily says at the start of the brewing record that MSS (Milk Stout sugar) was 250º L. So about 65 SRM.

1933 Barclay Perkins Milk Stout
mild malt	4.75 lb	41.76%
brown malt	0.75 lb	6.59%
amber malt	1.25 lb	10.99%
crystal malt 80 L	0.75 lb	6.59%
roast barley	1.00 lb	8.79%
no. 3 sugar	1.00 lb	8.79%
lactose	1.75 lb	15.38%
caramel 2000 SRM	0.125 lb	1.10%
Fuggles 150 min	2.00 oz
Goldings 90 min	1.00 oz
OG	1055
FG	1027.5
ABV	3.64
Apparent attenuation	50.00%
IBU	41
SRM	38
Mash at	150º F
Sparge at	172º F
Boil time	150 minutes
pitching temp	59º F
Yeast	Wyeast 1099 Whitbread Ale

Macbeth Tour Midwest dates.

It's almost time for me to grab my bags and head towards the airport for the first intercontinental leg of my Macbeth Tour.

I'm struggling to remember all the details at once, I've so many events planned. So this is as much for my benefit as yours.


Saturday 22nd April, 16:00 - 18:00
New Holland Brewing, Pub on 8th
66 E 8th St,
Holland, MI 49423


Sunday 23rd April

Dow Center Rooms A & B
22 E. Galloway Drive
Hillsdale, MI 49242
 

Serving 5 different 1894 Thomas Usher Beers at 2:30 pm.  Ron will talk at 3:00 pm

Monday 24th April, 18:30
Bent Brewstillery
1744 Terrace Dr
Roseville,
MN 55113

'For all you home brewers, please, no home brew for this event. If you want to bring a bottle for us (Ron and Kristen) that would be wonderful and Kristen even said that  he'll write up some notes/comments on it and send them back to you as long as you label it!'



Tuesday, 25th April, 16:00 - 21:00
Master Brewers Meeting
The Starkeller/August Schell Brewing
2215 North Garden Street
New Ulm, MN 56073
German Sour Beer Styles
http://community.mbaa.com/events/event-description?CalendarEventKey=19a88b09-e37a-4507-a6cd-56ad3ff69a6f&CommunityKey=e04a6b6f-5e8f-412b-b7e3-6f1cc64a770e&Home=%2fevents%2fcalendar


Thursday 27th April, 19:00–22:00
Earthbound Brewing,
2710 Cherokee Street,
St. Louis
https://www.facebook.com/events/279035529206291/


Saturday 29 April 2017, 19:00 - 22:00
Broad Ripple Brewpub
842 E 65th St
46220 Indianapolis
http://www.broadripplebrewpub.com/
http://www.wherevent.com/detail/Broad-Ripple-Brewpub-Macbeth-The-Brutal-History-Of-Scottish-Beer


Monday 1st May, 19:00 -
Duke's Alehouse and Kitchen
110 N. Main St.,
Crystal Lake,
IL 60014


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Köstritzer - more than Schwarzbier

Proof that Köstritzer was about more than just it's famous Schwarzbier.

And an excuse for not writing anything complicated. Or long.

The spread of Milk Stout

More milk Stout, you lucky kids.

 Remember mackeson's genius idea of licensing others to brew Milk Stout? The evidence shows that they soon had pleanty of takers. Only a year after its initial release, other brewers were making and promoting their own versions.

"ORIGINAL LONDON HIGHBURY MILK STOUT.
"Read what The Nursing Times,” August 7, 1909, says:
"The idea has persisted for many generations that stout is a beverage of special utility to convalescents and persons who require "building up,” and, in any case, it is certain that stout contains more nutritive matter than the great majority of liquids commonly drunk, and to that extent, and provided that an alcoholic beverage of any kind is not contra-indicated, its use is to be commended. It is not everyone, however, who can drink stout with impunity; some people find it "lies heavy,” and others, that it gives rise to an uncomfortable feeling of fulness. . . . This being the case, it seems worth while to direct attention to ... . "Milk Stout." Its name and its special value alike depend on its being prepared, not with invert sugar, but with sugar of milk, or lactose. This being an organic sugar, and not present in undue proportion, the stout is more likely to be found suitable to the majority of the persons for whom stout is commonly prescribed than are the general run of stouts. Moreover, as lactose is not susceptible of fermentation, the alcoholic contents do not vary, and there is no superfluons carbonic acid gas. The lactose makes no difference in the taste of the stout, and its quantity is approximately the same that contained in an ordinary glass of milk. "Milk Stout,” therefore, may well be tried by those who have occuion either to drink stout themselves or to select a beverage for a patient.”

Sole Agent for Warwick ;
H. FRYER, WINE AND SPIRIT MERCHANT, 16. HIGH STREET."
Warwick and Warwickshire Advertiser - Saturday 30 July 1910, page 5.

That hearty recommendation in Nursing Times probably didn't do the style any harm. And interestingly it does mention the unfermentable nature of lactose. "Superfluous carbonic acid gas" was doubtless be the result of an unwanted or over-vigorous secondary fermentation.

Here's direct evidence of Mackeson's licensing system:

"Milk Stout. — This perfect beverage is brewed at Daniell and Sons' Breweries, West Bergholt and Colchester, sole licensees for Essex and Suffolk. Each pint contains the energising carbo-hydrates of l0 oz. of pure Milk. — Daniell and Sons' Breweries, Ltd., Colchester, or from their Agents or houses. Anti-Rheumatic. Strongly recommended by the medical profession."
Chelmsford Chronicle - Friday 09 September 1910, page 8.

I'm quite impressed at how quickly Milk Stout acquired its fame.

Macbeth comes to Manchester

Gig number two of the trip is in Manchester itself. At Beer Nouveau which, conveniently, is within walking distance of our hotel.

But we kick off on the other side of town. At the John Rylands Library. I’ve been past the building plenty of times. It’s a pretty hard to miss ornate pink stone gothic pile. Unless you’re so fixated on your phone you never lift your eyes from the pavement.  Dolores wanted to take a look at an exhibition there and have a look around the library itself.

Wanting to keep up the pretence of this trip not being just about beer, I said “Yes, brilliant.”

It wasn’t a lie. Not about the exhibition, but the building itself. I fancied a closer look at that.

(Did I mention my thing about buildings? It’s what I dream about, mostly. That missing buses/trams/trains/planes or losing all my computers.)

Like many old public buildings, some idiot decided to move the entrance from its logical and architectural signalled position at the front to a bland modern shed tacked onto a rear corner. Presumably so they could add a gift shop you can’t avoid. I really hate this sort of shit. Demonstrates both a lack of understanding and lack of respect for the older structure.

The modern extension is unlike the original building in very way. Every wrong and bad way. Trying really, really hard, you couldn’t come up with something less sympathetic. Bland and sterile is about the nicest way I can describe it. Though the phrase “turd atop a pie” is lurking around in the back of my mind.

The original building is gorgeous, if you like the wedding-cake intricacy of high neo-Gothic. I’ve come to appreciate it myself, after a somewhat sceptical start. The contents are equally impressive. Especially the weird old medical tomes they have on display.

The reading niches are beautiful and full of natural light. Great places to study. If it weren’t for the drip, drip water torture of passing gawpers. Of which I’m one, sadly. How the hell could you concentrate while being photographed by random passersby? Including me, sadly.

An hour or so in there’s a strange rasping in my throat. Must be all those dusty old books drying it out.

“Time to go to the pub, Dolores? My liver thinks I’ve turned teetotal.”

“There’s no chance of that, Ronald.” Dolores says. Accompanied by one of those looks.

Being lunchtime, Dolores agrees. We’d decided earlier that we’d be lunching at The Moon Under Water. We thought we’d splash out on a fancy Wetherspoon’s meal.

I quite like The Moon Under Water. Mostly because, being pretty huge, you’re just about guaranteed to find a table. It’s surprisingly quiet for 13:00 on a Sunday. Just the odd pensioner reading a paper. I blame all-day Sunday opening. When I were a lad I’d be jangling my change and shuffling from foot to foot at 11:45 every Sunday. You had to take advantage of every single minute of the 120 the pubs were open.

It’s a bit of a bummer that Wetherspoons have dropped Sunday dinners. But a steak and kidney pud will do just fine. I’m a man of simple tastes. Dolores goes for a meal with a pint option.

As I’ve told you tediously often, Dolores is a big fan of cask Bitter. Nothing fancy, just standard cask Bitter. It has to be cask, mind. None of that keg or smoothflow rubbish. She’s actually more doctrinaire on this point than me. I get her a pint of Ruddles Best and myself something a bit more crafty. Mostly because it’s the strongest cask beer they have.

When I get back to our table, I notice that my pint isn’t settling out. It looks like chocolate milk shake, except more cloudy. And thicker. I’m pretty sure that it isn’t meant to look like that. But you can’t be certain nowadays with all these trendy unfined beers.

(On a side note, just because a beer hasn’t been fined is no excuse for it pouring as murky as a pint of mud. A well-brewed beer should drop bright with or without finings, if left to settle long enough.)

I take it back to the beer and tell the friendly teenage barmaid that I think there’s something wrong with my beer.

“Isn’t it supposed to look like that?”, she asks in mellifluent Mancunian tones.

“I don’t think so.” I say, trying to sound confident. I’m old, so she’ll probably believe me.

“Is this right?” she asks an older colleague, who confirms that the barrel needs changing. Phew. I didn’t fancy arguing the toss on that one. What is the world coming to when you can’t be sure that a pint of sludge isn’t quite right?

I get a new pint of another beer.

There’s something very soothing about a Wetherspoons during a quiet patch. That tempts you to stay for several slow pints, while outside the world whizzes on at its usual frantic pace. Or maybe it’s just the cheap beer. I’m a bit of a sucker for that. And why I usually avoid crazily-priced evil keg.

Back in our hotel, I’ve time to polish off a couple of the leftover beers from yesterday’s event.

“I have to drink them, Dolores. We can’t take them back.” Which is true, as we’ve flown Easyjet and have no check in bags.

“Right, Ronald.” She says, giving me a very cynical look.

Beer Nouveau next. And an encounter on Temperance Street.








The John Rylands Library
150 Deansgate,
Manchester M3 3EH, UK
Tel: +44 161 306 0555
http://www.library.manchester.ac.uk/rylands/


The Moon Under Water
68-74 Deansgate,
Manchester M3 2FN, UK
Tel: +44 161 834 5882
https://www.jdwetherspoon.com/pubs/all-pubs/england/manchester/the-moon-under-water-manchester



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Let's Brew - 1943 Whitbread Mackeson Stout

Continuing my Milk Stout series, here’s an enchanting little Mackeson recipe from the middle of WW II.

Whitbread started brewing Mackeson at their Chiswell Street base in the late 1930’s. Presumably because the Mackeson brewery in Hythe was struggling to keep up with demand. Eventually Whitbread brewed it at most of the breweries they controlled. The Whitbread Gravity Book of 1959 contains analyses of Mackeson brewed at four different locations: Chiswell Street, Stockport, Kirkstall and Hythe. It’s an indication of how popular the beer was.

The main grist for Mackeson was exactly the same as for Whitbread’s other two Stouts, London Stout and London Oatmeal Stout. You’ll note the quite proportion of flaked oats. That’s got absolutely nothing to do with the fact that Mackeson shared a grist with Oatmeal Stout. It’s much simpler than that – a bumper crop of oats in 1942 prompted the government to force brewers to use it in all their beers. The Oatmeal Stout element is actually the far smaller amount of malted oats. Before the war, Whitbread’s Oatmeal Stout contained miniscule quantities of oats. It was all a bit of a con, really.

Unusually for Whitbread, the grist has no brown malt. Instead it’s place is taken by amber malt. I can only assume this was because of a supply problem as only a few brews were made this way. Note also the lack of black malt. This was typical for Whitbread post-WW I. They dropped black malt in favour of chocolate malt in 1925 and never went back.

Note that the base in mild malt. It always makes me smile when I see homebrew Stout recipes with Maris Otter as base malt. Total waste with all the roasted malt. It was typical of breweries to use a cheaper malt as base for Porter and Stout because you weren’t really going to be able ro taste it, anyway. The best base malt was reserved for Pale Ales, where it mattered.

The lactose is listed as milk sugar paste in the brewing record. Sounds lovely. There’s also something called Duttson, for which I’ve bumped up the No. 3 invert sugar percentage. As Whitbread only used it in Stout, I’m assuming it’s dark in colour.

The hops, as so often, are rather vague, just recorded as MK and Sussex. I’ve guessed at Fuggles, but any English hops appropriate for the period are a fair enough substitution.

1943 Whitbread Mackeson Stout
mild malt	5.25 lb	56.33%
amber malt	0.50 lb	5.36%
chocolate malt	0.75 lb	8.05%
flaked oats	1.00 lb	10.73%
malted oats	0.07 lb	0.75%
no. 3 sugar	0.75 lb	8.05%
Lactose	1.00 lb	10.73%
Fuggles 60 min	1.00 oz
Fuggles 30 min	0.75 oz
OG	1046
FG	1021
ABV	3.31
Apparent attenuation	54.35%
IBU	20
SRM	24
Mash at	150º F
Sparge at	170º F
Boil time	60 minutes
pitching temp	64º F
Yeast	Wyeast 1099 Whitbread ale

Macbeth comes to Macclesfield (part three)

At 12:45 we head over to Five Clouds, the beer shop where I’ll be speaking. There are a few people milling around inside, which is a good sign. If half a dozen can be said to be milling.

I make myself known and am immediately offered a beer. Which is a very good sign. The event itself is taking place downstairs in the cellar. It’s, er, cosy. I can understand why attendance has been limited to just over a dozen.

On one table stand all the beers we’ll be trying. I’m dead impressed with the effort they’ve gone to. Some lovely adaptations of genuine William Younger labels. Appropriate as many of the beers were originally brewed by William Younger.

Rather than send out random recipes, I’ve sent the people taking part in the Macbeth project sets of themed recipes. For Macclesfield, that was Shilling Ales. The recipes are a mix of 1847 and 1868 William Younger and 1894 Thomas Usher. They’ve brewed the 1847 Younger beers, plus 80/- and 100/- from both breweries.

There’s no projector, which means everyone will have to look at the slides on my laptop screen. Not ideal but, as I said, it is quite cosy down here.

While we’re waiting for a few latecomers to toodle up, I chat with the club members. At 13:15 we decide to kick off, despite not everyone being there. It’s actually not that clear a break between the chat and the talk. Not that that bothers me.

This is my first go with this particular talk. It’s got rather more slides – 60 - than my usual 45-minute jobs. I wonder how long it will take. I’m aiming for around an hour. Which turns out to be hopelessly optimistic.

At several points we break to try the beers. Gives my voice a rest and slakes my thirst. And doubtless relieves the boredom of hearing me drone on and on.

The beers are pretty good, though a couple are a bit on the fizzy side. All are dangerously drinkable, despite their strength. Even Dolores likes them and she’s quite choosy. And not usually that keen on the strong stuff.

After just three hours, I’m done. I’ve noticed Dolores fidgeting and tapping her watch for about the last two hours. Do you think she’s been trying to tell me something.

Once we’re all packed up, Mike Gaskell, who organised everything, and a couple of club members take me and Dolores for a few beers and a bite to eat in the town. Go on. If you twist my arm I’ll drink some beer.

Rather than trad pubs, we head for a couple of newer-style drinking establishments. First, it’s the Treacle Tap, a narrow long bar that has a bit of the look of a café. But obviously a much better beer selection. It’s got handpulls, which pleases Dolores. She has her usual pint of Bitter.

We both eat pies, which are really dead good. Best pie I’ve had in a while. The kids would love that. Though somehow I doubt they will ever be in Macclesfield. But you never know.

Next stop is RedWillow, which also has its own brewery. It’s a much roomier place than Treacle Tap. Evidently it used to be a furniture shop. They’ve quite an array of their own beer, which is nice. Especially as they have handpulls as well as keg taps. Dolores would strangle me if I took her somewhere with only evil keg.

We’re at the bottom of the hill, thankfully. It’s a leisurely and flat walk back to the station.

Everyone else on the train seems to be going for a night out in Manchester. Two young lads are necking some spirit and cola combination from a pop bottle. While a group of young lasses in sparkly miniskirts pass around a bottle of wine. I wonder what state they’ll be in on the way home?

As a special treat, here’s one of the beers that was brewed for the event:

1868 William Younger 100/-
pale malt	17.75 lb	100.00%
Cluster 90 min	2.00 oz
Saaz 60 min	2.00 oz
Saaz 20 min	2.00 oz
OG	1076
FG	1034
ABV	5.56
Apparent attenuation	55.26%
IBU	69
SRM	6
Mash at	154º F
Sparge at	185º F
Boil time	105 minutes
pitching temp	57º F
Yeast	WLP028 Edinburgh Ale

Five Clouds
8 Market Pl,
Macclesfield SK10 1EX.
http://www.fivecloudbrew.co/


The Treacle Tap
43 Sunderland Street
Macclesfield
SK11 6JL
01625 615938
http://www.thetreacletap.co.uk/

Opening Hours:
Mon-Thurs : 16:00 - 23:00
Fri - Sat : 12:00 - 00:00
Sun: 12:00 - 23:00


RedWillow Bar
32a Park Green,
Macclesfield,
Cheshire, SK11 7NA
http://www.redwillowbar.com/

Opening Hours:
Monday Closed
Tue - Thur 16:00 - 23:00
Fri - Sat 12:00 - 24:00
Sun 12:00 - 22:30


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Milk Stout comes to Hull

Milk Stout seems to have spread throughout the whole of the UK almost immediately. I'm starting to get an inkling why.

below is a long and wordy advertisement from the Lion Brewery on London's South Bank. A dead impressive building that looked like a country house and had a giant lion on top of it.

As usual, a lot is made of Milk Stout's health benefits.

"The Lion Brewery Co.'s Milk Stout.
WHAT IS IT?
It is a Stout brewed from Malt and Hope under a Patent Process, the result of long research in conjunction with one of the leading Food Experts Instead of Cane Sugar being used, the natural Sugar of Milk or Lactose is substituted to the extent that
EACH PINT BOTTLE CONTAINS THE ENERGISING CARBOHYDRATES OF HALF-A-PINT OF PURE DAIRY MILK.

MILK STOUT is not a "fancy" name, but contains the milk extract as stated above.
IT IS ANTI-RHEUMATIC, the reason for this being that Lactose has betm found by medical tests to be slightly diuretic, but without causing any irritation of the excretory organs. It therefore tends largely to remove acids from the system. This is a natural effect brought about by the natural Sugar of Milk.

It is a unique, pure Nourisning Stout, containing nothing but natural food. The Milk Extract gives it a deliriously soft palate without altering the flavour in any way.

It is an excellent drink for the healthy Man or Woman, the Invalid, and the Nursing Mother.

The Lion Brewery Co.s Milk Stout is more DIGESTlBLE than ordinary Stout.

MEDICAL PRESS OPINIONS.
The following are extracts from a few of the reports of the Medical Press after samples submitted by the Patentees had been analysed in their Laboratories:—

THE LANCET, September 11, 1909, says:— The claim is made in regard this malt liquor that the replacement of the ordinary brewing sugars with a certain proportion of milk sugar is an advantage, because milk sugar la unfementable, and therefore does not split up into alcohol and carbonic acid gas. We confirmed the presence of milk sugar by the  phenyl-hydrazine test. The stout was in good condition and the flavour was excellent, while there was no undesirable excess of carbonic acid gas.

. . . . . .

A number of Testimonials have been received by the Patentees of which the following are specimens:—

From a Medical Man.
Gentlemen,
I am obliged to you for your specimen bottle of Milk Stout. I have recommended it to several of my patients  and think it should be very useful, especially to those suffering from rheumatoid arthritis.

From a Medical Man.
Dr -----   wishes another dozen sent   ...   he considers the Milk Stout excellent, and it has benefited his wife, who during her stay in Hythe continued to take it.

From a Medical Man.
I received the sample of Stout, and the idea is an excellent one, especially for rheumatic patients, of which I am sorry to say I am one. However, I sampled it myself, although I have not drunk Malt Liquors for years; I had neither headache nor acidity after it, which I certainly could not say of ordinary stout. I shall have pleasure in recommending it, and shall try it again for myself.

Recommended by the Doctor.
Mrs  .  .  having been recommended by her Doctor to try your Milk Stout, would feel obliged if you will send her a trial bottle, with particulars of where she can purchase it.

Sold by all Grocers. Wine Merchants, and Stores. If any difficulty is experienced in obtaining Milk Stout, please write the Brewery for the name of the nearest Agent.
Price per Dozen Pint Bottles, 3/6; half-Pints 2/- per Doz.
SOLE AGENTS & BOTTLERS, WM. WHEATLEY & SONS,
MYTONGATE, HULL.
Nat. Tel. 712. 
Corp. Tel. 712."
Hull Daily Mail - Wednesday 02 November 1910, page 8.

The bit missing from the centre is the piece from the Nursing Times that I've already published.

My guess is that is these positive reviews in medical publications and recommendations from doctors were key to Milk Stout's sudden fame and popularity. Remember that Mackeson only released their version in 1909.

I love those testimonials at the end. Very Viz.