Thursday, 17 December 2015

Random Dutch beers (part nine)

Do you know what these little posts represent? An evening's drinking. Of new beers. I've been going all eclectic. Is that the right word? No idea. Let's just move on.

Pretty sure this this is another naked brewery. i.e. it has no kit. I may be able to tell you more once I've peeled the label off. The print is tiny.

I do this live. Typing as I tipple. Obviously not at exactly the same time. Hang on while I dive into


Cinema Brewers Paradiso Basil IPA 5.5% ABV
Some pale yellow shade, cornfield or some poetic crap like that, head breaking like fluffy clouds in strong winds. Or, pale yellow, head disappearing a bit. Some sort of vegetable smell. My suggestometer is indicating the possibility of basil. But is that just because of the name?

"Dolores. Can you sniff this?"

Dolores sniffs.

"Can you smell any herb or spice?"

Sniffs again. "No."

"Because it's called basil IPA."

"Definitely not basil."

Wow. Certainly bitter enough for an IPA up front. What is that? Mint. Like mint toothpaste mixed with the horrible green gunk that's the very last stuff to come out when you puke your stomach empty. Not that it's totally unpleasant. Nicer if you like this sort of hop. Maybe the small print on the label will give a clue. More medicinal than fruity. Laphroaig without the fun.


Jopen Ooost Indie Porter 6.5% ABV
Black. Black as the coal that belched sulphurous, choking smoke into our living room when I was a child, yet melted toy soldiers in such a gruesomely fascinating way. Slightly mucky black. Like coal. No, not like coal. That stuff's seriously black. Get anywhere near it and you're in danger of being mistaken for a Black and White Minstrel*. Quite fizzy, but forms a head as firm as merangue. Smells like an unemptied pub ashtray at 9:48 AM the following day. In a not totally unpleasant way. Not sure about this. Is that a stack of brown malt? Or am I talking out of the wrong end of my body again? Roasty as a Sunday joint left sunbathing all day in Alice Springs without suncream. Bit acrid, but drinkable.

"Dolores, do -"

"No, Ronald. I've got things to do. Like clean the toilets. When did you last do that?"

"That's a no then."


* Look it up on the internet, children.

Wednesday, 16 December 2015

Let's Brew Wednesday – 1958 Fullers Strong Ale

Another Fullers beer from the late 1950’s, this time a strong bottled beer. Though you may find the recipe rather familiar.

Everyone knows how Fullers proudly uphold the tradition of parti-gyling to this day, brewing Chiswick, London Pride, ESB and Golden Pride from one basic recipe. Back in the day, they did something similar with their dark beers. From that recipe they brewed X (or Hock) their Mild, OBE, their draught Burton and SA, a bottled Strong Ale. In reality a Mild Ale, a strong Mild Ale and a very strong Mild Ale.

I used to think that strong Mild had died on the Somme, but, as ever, reality is far more complicated. Southern Old Ales – like the one Harveys still brew – were really strong Milds. And many stronger dark bottled Ales, like Fullers SA, were stronger versions still. It made a lot of sense to brew this way. The market for stronger beers was relatively small. If your brew length was several hundred barrels, as at Fullers, it made sense to parti-gyle a small-batch beer with something else. This particular brew produced 53 barrels of SA, 9.74 of OBE and 277 of Mild.

I can’t really say much about the recipe, as it’s essentially identical to the last. And that you’ll need a good dose of caramel to get the right colour.

1958 Fullers Strong Ale
pale malt 12.00 lb 80.00%
flaked maize 1.25 lb 8.33%
no. 2 sugar 1.25 lb 8.33%
no. 3 sugar 0.50 lb 3.33%
Fuggles 90 min 1.50 oz
Fuggles 60 min 0.75 oz
Goldings Varieties 30 min 0.75 oz
OG 1072.4
FG 1016.1
ABV 7.45
Apparent attenuation 77.76%
IBU 35
SRM 30
Mash at 149º F
Sparge at 165º F
Boil time 90 minutes
pitching temp 60º F
Yeast WLP002 English Ale

Tuesday, 15 December 2015

Branded IPA in 1953

Nope, wasn’t done. How could I have forgotten about IPA, everyone’s current favourite?

It’s not a huge set, then again it wasn’t that common for beers to be labelled IPA. And the term was used very loosely, covering very different beers. I’ll prove that in a moment. Why is that? Because, unlike today, people had no particular expectation about what an IPA would be like, other than being pale and reasonably hoppy. Hard to imagine such vague desires now.

Another problem is that the classic Burton IPAs weren’t always even called IPA. Often they were billed merely as “Pale Ale”, as was the case with Bass. Whose Red Triangle (trademark No. 1 in the UK) brand Pale Ale is a notable omission from the list. As is White Shield. Weird, that. I’d expect them to have been first on the list.

In table number two you can see for yourself how varied IPA was in terms of strength, ranging from 3% to 8% ABV. Pretty difficult to lump such dissimilar beers into a single description. Which is why I’m not going to bother. Most are, indeed, pretty pale. A colour below 20 is at the pale end of British Pale Ale’s colour spectrum. The one exception is from Vaux.

Sadly I only have analyses for two of the beers in the brand table, Brickwood’s Sunshine and Hope & Anchor’s Anchor. The former is a mid-strength example, the latter towards the limp end.

Branded IPA in 1953
Brewery Brand Type
Cheltenham & Hereford Breweries Double Chelt Bottled I.P.A.
Courage Alton I. P. A.
Abington Brewery  Double Ace I.P.A.
Gibbs, Mew Sarum Special I.P.A.
Hope & Anchor Anchor I.P.A.
Vallances Brewery Wessex I.P.A.
Brickwood Sunshine I.P.A., bottled
Campbell, Praed Cromwell Ale I.P.A., bottled
Source:
Brewery Manual 1953-1954, pages 382 - 394.

Bottled IPA in the 1950's 
Year Brewer Beer Price per pint (d) Acidity OG FG ABV App. Attenua- tion colour
1956 Barclay Perkins IPA 20 0.04 1030.5 1007.3 3.01 76.07% 19
1959 Usher India Pale Ale 20 0.03 1032.3 1008.4 2.99 73.99% 18
1955 Vaux & Co India Pale Ale 18 0.05 1032.9 1008.2 3.20 75.08% 30
1959 Greene King India Pale Ale 20 0.04 1033.3 1010 3.02 69.97% 25
1956 Hope & Anchor IPA 24 0.04 1036.6 1008 3.71 78.14% 18
1955 Hansons IPA 22 0.04 1043.1 1007.8 4.60 81.90% 19
1955 Eldridge Pope IPA 29 0.05 1044.1 1012.8 4.06 70.98% 20
1960 Brickwoods Sunshine India Pale Ale 28 0.04 1044.7 1011.4 4.16 74.50% 25
1955 Flowers IPA 28 0.05 1045.9 1009.7 4.71 78.87% 25
1957 McEwan Export IPA 32.5 0.05 1046.4 1010.7 4.64 76.94% 22
1954 Courage John Courage IPA 28 0.05 1050.4 1011.2 5.10 77.78% 20
1955 Bass Pale Ale (Red Triangle) 0.04 1063.2 1009.6 7.02 84.81% 19
1955 Worthington India Pale Ale (Green Shield) 0.05 1063.3 1009.4 7.06 85.15% 18
1955 Bass Pale Ale (Blue Triangle) 0.07 1063.5 1003.1 7.96 95.12% 19
1955 Worthington India Pale Ale (White Shield) 0.05 1063.7 1002.9 8.02 95.45% 18
Average 24.5 0.05 1046.3 1008.7 4.88 79.65% 21.0
Sources:
Whitbread Gravity book held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document number LMA/4453/D/02/002.
T & J Bernard's brewing records held at the Scottish Brewing Archive

I may still be able to drag some more material from this. I’m sure I’ve not done every beer type yet.

Monday, 14 December 2015

Random Dutch beers (part eight)

Just had a discussion with Alexei about the countries with the highest tea consumption. Very different to a beer consumption chart. Other than Ireland. And the UK. He has this weird interest in numbers, Alexei. God knows where he gets it from.

My roti consumed, I'm up for some beer consumption of my own. Starting with another from Pampus.


Pampus Hoppy Stout 6.3% ABV
They're really going the full craft hog and sinker, Pampus, nose to squeek. Fuck me. I was about to go style Nazi ther and declare this more like a Black IPA. ("Dolores, can you fetch my hair shirt?") Mostly that grapefruity sort of thing going on in the aroma. Can I detect some roast? Or is that just the power of suggestion, this being a Stout? Iron and sweat weirdly come to mind. Not sure if that's really from the beer or just my crazy head. Bit of liquorice at the back end. The salty type no-one likes except in Holland and a couple of other weird countries. I quite like it. Especially the way it saves the Stoutiness until right at the end. I'll be finishing this one.

Knowing Dolores's opinion of grapefruit beer, I'll not risk offering her a sip.

Another Pampus beer next. The magic bag is a bit bare. The beer fairy hasn't been for a while. Where the hell is she?


Pampus/La Fucina Just a Beer 6.3% ABV
I guess it is a collab. The Just a Beer name must be a piss take. It's anything but just a beer, having a whole load of shit in it. As it says on the label: "Made with an unorthodox combination of ingredients . . ." I can smell the lemon grass from several places - say Rotterdam and Utrecht - though I was tipped off by the lime green "lemon grass" on the label. I get ginger, too. I won't read the label too closely. That would spoil the fun. Haven't Oedipus (an Amsterdam brewery that is kitted up) done a lemon grass beer? Tastes like a load of other spices. Could be worse. Pretty sure I can manage the whole bottle.* Won't be buying a second.

Andrew is off at his mate's. A sure sign the Pils has run out. And the Amstel Bok. He polished that off when we were in London. And all but one can of Dolores's cider. Even he wouldn't dare take her last can. Alexei doesn't drink and anyway is otherwise disposed with some shouting upstairs. No fucking way Dolores would put this one anywhere near her lips. So you'll have to make do with just my opinion.


* Dolores hates waste.

Sunday, 13 December 2015

A few days in London

I was in London with Dolores for a few days last week. Not to do anything very specific or beer-related. Other than attend the beer hacks annual dinner.

It’s about the one chance a year I get chance to meet my fellow beer writers. And there’s one the frustration of being a member of the British Guild of Beer Writers and living abroad: I miss out on the free piss-ups. Not that I’m resentful. Not openly, anyway.



It’s fun spending time in London with no particular beer agenda. I made zero effort to visit specific pubs and just drank in whichever one was close by. Not being one of these crafty type and having a wife who’s idea of beery perfection in Fullers London Pride, carefully selecting a pub isn’t that important. Most in town will provide the minimum requirement of one cask beer.

But I noticed something. Taylor Walker must have done some deal with Greene King because in several pubs, rather than the London Pride they used to sell they’d something called London Glory instead. Brewed by Greene King. But not in effing London. Bit of a cheek, if you ask me. And sad if it pushed the superior Pride off many bars.


Funniest moment was when Dolores asked for a pint of Bitter and I brought her something in a glass branded IPA.

“Have they served it in the wrong glass? I asked for Bitter. That’s not really an IPA, is it?”

“Yes.”

“You know I hate those IPAs that taste of grapefruit.”

“This isn’t like that.”

“Are you sure? It says IPA.”

“Don’t worry, it’s like a Bitter really. It’s Greene King IPA.”

“Why do they call it IPA, then?”

“That’s a good question with a very complicated answer. I’d just get on with drinking your beer if you don’t fancy an hour lecture on the history of IPA.”

Dolores must be the only person in the last 10 years not to be disappointed that Greene King IPA wasn’t like a modern IPA.

What else did we do? Went to Camden to buy me some shoes. A big problem now DMs have turned to total shit. The much superior Solovair shoes aren’t as widely available. As it costs 20 quid to get a pair sent to Holland, it made sense to drop by the shop and buy them directly. I’m terrible with shoes. I only ever have one pair, which I wear until they disintegrate. My last pair lasted almost three years, I reckon.

While in Camden, it only made sense to have a look at the market and the shops. Dolores had never been this way before. Trendy, in a beard and tattoo sort of way, but not too posh.

As we walked up Camden High Street the buildings started to look eerily familiar. Then I realised why. I’d looked at this spot on Streetview when researching the Camden Brewery.


“There’s an old brewery building just around the corner. Do you mind if I go and photograph it?”

“No problem, Ronald.”

It was only 50 metres past the Elephant’s Head, which is where we were headed for a beer. Dolores was probably glad it was just a few extra steps and not a trek right across town. I’m glad I made the effort, because I could see more of the brewery has survived than I realised.

“I’ve got a good story about the Elephant’s Head. But I’ll tell you after we’ve left.”

“Why?”

Why the Take Courage sign?
“You’ll realise after I tell you the tale.”

I spilled the beans on the way back to Camden tube station. I can remember being there once with Matt, Tym and Piers. I think we were in Camden to watch Hackney Five-O support the Higsons. That tells you how long ago it was. 30 years, at least. We were sitting close to the bar. The was an altercation between two blokes about to order. Then a horrible breaking noise followed by blood splattering on our table. The one bloke had glassed the other. Worst violence I’ve ever seen in a pub. The glasser ran and hid in the bog from the glassee’s mates. We quickly finished our drinks and left. It wasn’t going to get any nicer.

“What a lovely story, Ronald.”

I’d have never got her in the pub if I’d told her that earlier.

While Dolores checked out the shoe exhibition in the V & A, I indulged in one of my favourite pleasures: an afternoon in the pub over the paper and a few pints. And obviously observing - and listening to - my fellow drinkers. Nothing like a newspaper for disguising your nosiness.

Not sure there’s anything else I need to tell you. Other than shitting bricks on the way to the airport. We cut in rather finer than I would like. We got the airport just 40 minutes before our flight. Without boarding passes and with luggage to check in. Luckily we were flying from London City Airport, which is tiny. I still had time to buy a sandwich for the plane in Boots. Airside, but under two quid.

My last foreign trip of the year, that was. I had been planning on going to the Kerstbierfestival. Until I discovered that it was all-ticket this year and the day I wanted to go, Saturday, is sold out. Damn.

Saturday, 12 December 2015

Random Dutch beers (part seven)

I'm going to be able to drag this out longer than you might expect. Thank you resurgent Dutch brewing for making my life easier. Even if some of the beers do make me want to retch. And not in a good way.

First, an old favourite. Well, sometimes favourite, sometimes just old. One year I bought half a dozen from Ton Overmars and every single bottle was different, ranging from sublime to crap. Not sure how they pulled that off in a single batch. Anyway, let's give the 2015 version a try.


't Ij Ijndejaars 9% ABV
It's a deep amber colour, with a jaunty enough head. At least after I beat it with my degasser for a minute or twelve. Smells spicy. A bit like Christmas, but not quite as celebratory. Spicy as cheap aftershave in the mouth, with some of that house yeast flavour. Which is pleasant enough. In moderation. Not bad, actually. I may pick up a few more bottles.

I'd ask Dolores her opinion, but she's busy writing Christmas cards. Not wise to interrupt her at such times.

Next one from a kitless brewer:



Pampus Wisselhop #01/2015 Sorachi Ace 6.7% ABV
Bit of a complicated name. I'm guessing this is a one off. What colour could it be but hazy amber?  The head's a bit skinny and white, its ribs sticking out. (Like me and my brother in the 1960's. I spent the whole of my childhood hungry. And all my meagre pocket money on food.) Despite all my beating. Rum punch is the nose. (While I'm on the family jag, one of the few times I saw my Mum pissed was after drinking a few rum punches in Kingston. She wasn't much of a drinker and those things had several double shots in them. Including overproof. She was just as sweet as ever, my Mum.) Finishes dead bitter in a slightly Izal sort of way. Nothing at all wrong with the beer. But probably not one I'd drink again. Just not that keen on the hop flavour. Personal taste thing.

I'd ask Dolores her opinion, but it would just annoy her. I know she hates beer like this. And she knows I know that.

"I know you'd hate the taste, but do you want to have a sniff of my beer, Dolores." I'm such a charmer.

"No."

You can't argue with that. At least not if you want to stay married.

Friday, 11 December 2015

Branded Light Ale in 1953

I told you there were some branded Light Ales in the list. And here’s proof.

You’re probably bored of me telling you this, but Light Ale was one of the most popular types of beer in the 1950’s. In the same way as Brown Ale was used as a mixer to perk up dodgy draught Mild, Light Ale was mixed with Ordinary Bitter. The advent of lower gravity keg beer, which offered similar advantages to Light and Bitter, but at a lower price, could well have hastened the demand for Light Ale.

By the time I started drinking in the 1970’s, Light and Bitter mostly seemed popular in the South, particularly in London. When I lived in the East End back then, I had my own variation. There was a rather nice Bass pub in Bow where I’d drink Draught Bass and White Shield mixed. Quite reasonably priced, considering the combined ABV.

Probably my favourite one on the list is Bernard’s 90/- India Pale Ale. Why? Because its name goes totally against what style Nazis would have you believe, namely that 90/- is a strong Scotch Ale and that IPA is strong. From what I can piece together, 90/- became a common name for a low-gravity bottled Pale Ale – Light Ale, really – between the wars. It’s really, really confusing, since some breweries had a 60/- Pale Ale that was stronger than their 90/-. It’s another demonstration of how arbitrary and inconsistent classifications were in the past.

These beers will have had gravities in the 1028-1035º range, with most closer to the bottom rather than the top. About 3% ABV was average. And a very pale colour for an English Pale Ale.

Seeing as none of those breweries has survived, it’s no shock that every single brand in the table has disappeared. The last survivor seems to have been Ridley’s Essex Light Ale, which was discontinued when Greene King bought Ridley’s up in 2005.

Almost no Light Ales in the old style are currently brewed. A big change from a time when literally every brewer had one in their portfolio. Courage Light Ale is the only one I can think of. Must try it in the very unlikely case I stumble across it.

Branded Light Ale in 1953
Brewery Brand Type
Hull Brewery Amber Ale Light
South Wales and Monmouthshire United Clubs Brewery Club Special Light
T. D. Ridley & Sons Essex Light Ale
Cheltenham & Hereford Breweries Little Chelt Light Ale
Dutton's Green Label Light Ale
Dyer, Meakin Breweries Solan Light Ale
Flowers Breweries Luton Light Ale
George Gale Horndean Light Ale
John Richdale Wellington Light Ale
Meux's Brewery London Pale Ale Light Ale
Style & Winch Farmer Ale Light Ale
T. & J. Bernard 90/- India Pale Ale Light Ale
The Ely Brewery Druid's Ale Light Ale
The Ely Brewery T. V. Light Ale
The Stroud Brewery All Bright Light Ale
Wm. Murray Wee Murray Light Ale
Truman Eagle Light Ale
Hunt, Edmunds Banbury Cross Light Ale, bottled
Alton Court Brewery Golden Hop Light Bitter
G. Ruddle Golden Brew Light bitter, bottled
Hull Brewery Golden Light Dinner Ale
Andrew Buchan's Breweries Golden Hop Light Draught
Wm. Younger Holyrood Light Sparkling Ale
Source:
Brewery Manual 1953-1954, pages 382 - 394.

I might be done now. I’ll need to check.

Thursday, 10 December 2015

Random Dutch beers (part six)

I'm getting quite into this beer reviewing lark. It's the perfect way to post. No research, no numbers to interfere with. All I need to do is drink beer and write bollocks about it.

First off, a new beer from Christoffel:


Christoffel W-IPA 6.5% ABV
Billed as a Weissen IPA. the colour is a surprisingly deep copper, hazy and with a big marshmallow head. Though that's probably the result of me knocking the condition out of it. There's an American hop thing going on in the aroma, but fairly subtle. In the gob it's . . . just . . . weird. Tastes like they might have used a wheat beer yeast. I'm sure I can spot cloves in amongst the US hops and overwhelming bitterness. A classic fusion of flavours that refuse to cooperate and fight it out with flick knives in your mouth.

"Do you want to try my beer, Dolores."

"No, I saw the face you pulled when you drank it."

One from highly-rated Uiltje next.


Het Uiltje Dwerguil 5% ABV, €2.25 for 33cl
Triple dryhopped European lager, they call it. It's mucky pale yellow. Smells hoppy. But not the fruity US type. More the trendy new weird ones. Is that lime or toilet cleaner I'm getting there? That's toilet cleaner in a toilet. Lots of hop flavour in the mouth. Probably too much. Bitter to the point of sourness. Not for me. It made me nostalgic for grapefruit beers. The lack of much to counterbalance the hops doesn't help.

"Do you want to try my beer? It's a 5% Lager."

Andrew sips gingerly.

"Does it have American hops in it? Does it? It has that fruity smell."

"It feels like I've got something sticking to my tongue."

"It's not something you could drink lots of, Dad."

"Do you you want to try this, Dolores?"

"No, I don't want to spoil my mouth."

"It's not worth finishing, Dad."

I have to agree.

Wednesday, 9 December 2015

Let's Brew Wednesday – 1958 Fullers Old Burton Extra

OBE, Fullers Strong Burton Ale, was discontinued during WW II, but reappeared in the 1950’s. Though it never returned fully to its former strength.

The late 1930’s version had an OG of 1069 and over 6% ABV. Which was pretty strong for a draught beer – which is what OBE was – between the wars. On the other hand, it was brewed in tiny quantities. The largest batches were a little under 10 barrels, the smallest just two. To put that into context, their big-sellers had batch sizes of 300 or 400 barrels. The post-war version was brewed in slightly larger batches. 27.25 barrels of this beer were brewed.

It’s another very simple recipe: pale malt, flaked maize and sugar. In addition to No. 2 sugar, the original contained two proprietary sugars: PEX and CDM. The PEX I’ve replaced with No. 2 sugar, the CDM with No. 3. The hops I’ve interpreted as Fuggles, were just listed as Kent in the brewing record. It seems a reasonable enough guess.

To get the right colour, you’ll need to add caramel. With just the listed ingredients it will come out way too pale.

That’s all I have to say so here’s the recipe.

1958 Fullers OBE
pale malt 8.50 lb 80.95%
flaked maize 1.00 lb 9.52%
no. 2 sugar 0.75 lb 7.14%
no. 3 sugar 0.25 lb 2.38%
Fuggles 90 min 1.00 oz
Fuggles 60 min 0.50 oz
Goldings Varieties 30 min 0.50 oz
OG 1049.4
FG 1013.3
ABV 4.78
Apparent attenuation 73.08%
IBU 26
SRM 30
Mash at 149º F
Sparge at 165º F
Boil time 90 minutes
pitching temp 62º F
Yeast WLP002 English Ale

Tuesday, 8 December 2015

Brewing restrictions in Denmark during WW I

I’m making a brief detour back to WW I. Just because I happened upon a fascinating article mentioning the effect of WW I on Danish brewing.

Which you might find surprising, seeing as Denmark was neutral. But the activities of British and German naval forces severely affected world shipping, for both participants and non-participants alike.

“Restrictions on brewing were also imposed as national necessity demanded, the following regulations being successively brought into force:—

April 3rd. 1917.—Restriction of brewing material to not more than 80 per cent, of the normal consumption.

Nov. 9th, 1917.—Prohibition of the use of Danish barley for malting.

Nov. 24th, 1917.—Prohibition of export of beers and yeast. This regulation is not yet withdrawn, but it is possible to obtain permits for export. the restrictions on the use of brewing materials and on the employment of Danish barley for malting have, on the other hand, been recently withdrawn, but economies are still enforced by the prohibition since Feb. 6th, 1920, of the sale in Denmark of beer containing more than 3 per cent, by weight of absolute alcohol.”
Journal of the Institute of Brewing, Volume 27, Issue 1, January 1921, page 26.

That date of April 1917 for the first restrictions isn’t random. And is exactly when the first drastic cuts in beer production started in the UK. Because it’s just when the German unrestricted U-boat  campaign started to bite.

Just like in the UK, taxes went up, too:

“In addition to these restrictions the taxes on beer have been greatly increased. Up till Nov. 10th, 1917, beers containing less than 2.25 per cent, by weight of absolute alcohol were duty free. Those with over 2.25 per cent, being taxed at Kr. 9.50 per hectolitre (equivalent to about 15s. 6d. per barrel). But now all beers are taxed, being divided into "Skatteklasse I" and "Skatteklasse II" (Taxclasses I and II), the former containing more than 2.25 percent, by weight of absolute alcohol bearing a tax of Kr. 18 per hectolitre (about 29s. 6d. per barrel) and the latter so-called temperance beers with less than 2.25 per cent, alcohol at Kr. 5.70 per hectolitre (9s. 4d. per barrel).”
Journal of the Institute of Brewing, Volume 27, Issue 1, January 1921, page 26.

To put that into context, here’s the tax on beer in the UK for the same period:

UK Excise tax 1914 - 1920
Year Tax per standard barrel Average OG
1914 7s 9d 1052.8
1915 23s 1052.35
1916 23s 1051.88
1917 24s 1048.54
1918 25s 1039.81
1919 50s 1030.55
1920 70s 1039.41
Source:
Brewers' Almanack


It’s difficult to make a direct comparison, because of the different systems used, but Danish tax was higher before the start of the war, but lower by the end of it, than in the UK.

No surprise, then, that the price of beer increased:

“These and greatly increased expenses in every other direction have raised the prices of "Pilsener" beer from 11 ore (about 1d.) to 26 ore (2.5d.) per bottle of 330 c.cm. and in cask from Kr. 26 to Kr. 72 per hectolitre (about 42s. 6d. to 117s. 6d. per barrel). The beers with less than 2.25 per cent alcohol show an even greater increase. The new Pilsener for instance increasing from Kr. 7.5 to 24.25 are per bottle (about 0.75d. to 2.5d.) and from Kr. 16 to Kr. 60 per hectolitre in cask (or 26s. 3d. to 98s. 6d. per barrel).”
Journal of the Institute of Brewing, Volume 27, Issue 1, January 1921, pages 26 - 27.

Price increases were even more extreme in the UK. A pint of Mild in the low 1050’s cost 2d in 1914. In 1920 a beer of tat strength had a controlled price of 8d per pint*.

“The brewing  of the stronger "Lager beer" was stopped in Feb., 1918, and export trade brought to a complete standstill, and despite the renewed freedom of the seas, freights still prevent more than a partial resumption.

The accompanying table will show how gravities have been affected, and indicate the stoppage of the stronger beers in 1918. Table I

Average Original Gravities of Beers.
October 1st 1914 1915 1916 1917 1918 1919
September 30th 1915 1916 1917 1916 1919 1920
Lager beer 52 51 48 45 0 0
Pilsener beer 44 44 41.5 32 38 38
Stout, taxclass I 76 76 72 0 0 0
Stout, taxclaas II 68 68 65 58 55 56
Munich beer 56 56 55 0 0 0
Export beer 52 50 49.5 0 0 0
New Pilsener, taxclass II 32 32 32 30 31 31


Again, the war drove down gravities in Denmark, though not as drastically as in the UK. Nor was it permanent, as in the UK. Looking in the Carlsberg records I have from 1928, I can see that their Pilsner was brewed to 10.6º Plato, or 1042.5º.**

I’m glad for this explanation of Lager. I’d suspected it was darker, but it’s nice to have that confirmed:

“Bottled beers during recent years have been mainly of two types "Pilsener," a pale beer, and "Lager," a darker and rather stronger beer. The Lager is no longer brewed on account of the restrictions on gravity, and alcohol, and with the exception of old stocks which at the time of writing are approaching exhaustion, the only bottled beer in consumption in Denmark is of a gravity of 1038 or less. At the Carlsberg and Tuborg breweries the 1038 beers are of the Pilsener type, sparkling and palatable light beers, but not equal in point of flavour or character to their pre-war prototypes of 11° Balling or 1044º. At the smaller breweries at other places darker beers of the same maximum gravity are brewed. The old top fermentation beers peculiar to the country are being gradually displaced by these finer bottom fermentation beers, and of late the national beverage Schnapps is also being ousted by bottled Pilsener on account of its greatly enhanced price.”
Journal of the Institute of Brewing, Volume 27, Issue 1, January 1921, page 27.

I can believe that almost exclusively Pilsner was brewed. There’s page after page of just Pilsner in the 1928 Carlsberg brewing records.




* The Brewers' Almanack 1928 pages 100 - 101.
** Calrsberg brewing record held at the brewery in Copenhagen, document number Serie 000013560 000056839.

Monday, 7 December 2015

Branded Stout in 1953

Still there? I didn’t think so. I’m used to talking to myself. The family isn’t exactly fascinated by beer history.

“Stop being annoying, Dad.” Is Alexei’s normal response to a remark about hop usage in Scotland in the 1860’s. No interest in anything, these young people. Amazingly, not even the brands of Stout available in the early 1950’s. Un-fucking-believable.

Branded Stout. Not something I’d given a load of thought to. But now I think about it, old labels for Stouts quite often have names. Which explains the very long list. And is more evidence that Guinness were far from monopolising the Stout market. Confirming Stout was an important product for breweries at the time. Why else go to the trouble of naming them.

Doubtless it’s also connected with Stout becoming an exclusively bottled beer for most breweries. Draught Stout was still about in London in the 1950’s, but not really anywhere else. At a certain point, most drinkers must have expected Stout always to be in bottled form.

But there remained a sizeable market for Stout. In Mass Observation’s Bolton of the late 1930’s, it’s mostly women drinking Stout. My guess is that was still the case in the early 1950’s. Sweet Stout is certainly what my Mum drank in the 1960’s. In fact her beer of choice is in the list: Warwick & Richardson’s Milk Maid Stout. She was most upset when it was discontinued after the brewery was absorbed into the Courage group.

I’m keeping in short. I’ll just remark that many of the beers just classes as Stout were Sweet Stouts. Milk Maid, for example. That’s why my Mum liked it: sweet and not too alcoholic. Many examples of this type of Stout were under 3% ABV.


Branded Stout in 1953
Brewery Brand Type
Ansells Brewery Tonic Bottled Stout
Beamish & Crawford Foreign Extra Bottled Stout
Daniel Thwaites "Cream of All Stout" Bottled Stout
Fuller, Smith & Turner Samson Bottled Stout
Barclay, Perkins Victory Formerly Milk Stout
Taylor, Walker Cannon Stout High gravity
Brickwood Black Brlcky Ex-Strong Stout
Star Brewery Club Stout Stout
Abington Brewery Oak Stout Stout
Arthur Guinness, Son Harp Stout
Atkinsons Brewery Punch Stout
Beamish & Crawford An Tostal Stout
Castletown Brewery Manx Maid Stout
Castletown Brewery Manx Oyster Stout Stout
Charrington Anchor Stout
Charrington Punch Stout
Cobb & Co. Margate Stout Stout
East African Breweries Nguvu Stout
East Anglian Breweries Silk Stout Stout
H. & G. Simonds Archangel Stout
H. & G. Simonds Velvet Stout
Harman's Uxbridge Brewery Snip Stout
Hope & Anchor Breweries Royal Jubilee Stout
Hope & Anchor Breweries Vi Stout
J. G. Swales SOS Stout
J. W. Lees & Co. Archer Stout
Marston Mylki Stout
Massey's Burnley Brewery Prize  Stout Stout
Northampton Brewery Jumbo Stout
P. Phipps Little Rat Stout
Queensland Brewery Bulimba Red Top Stout
Richard Whitaker & Sons Standard Stout
Robert Younger Oat Creme Stout
South African Breweries Gluko Stout
Timothy Taylor Black Bess Stout
Tollemache's Breweries Beano Stout
Warwicks & Richardsons Milk Maid Stout
Wm. Younger Capital Stout
Worksop & Retford Brewery Prior well Stout
Walters Trinidad Brewing Black Velvet Stout & Milk Stout
West Riding Bottling White Rose Stout and Mild Ale
Duncan Gilmour Milk Round Stout bottled
Campbell Praed Red well Stout, bottled
W. Butler All Malt Stout, bottled
Frederic Robinson Unicorn Sweet Stout
Hope & Anchor Breweries Jubilee Sweet Stout
James Hole Castle Stout Sweet Stout
Source:
Brewery Manual 1953-1954, pages 382 - 394.

Light Ale next, I think. Pretty sure there were some of those.