Friday, 25 April 2014

Breaking the Porter brewers' monopoly

I found this interesting text in a guide to London published to coincide with the Great Exhibition of 1851.

It discusses the effect of the 1830 Beer Act in the brewing trade in London. Particularly the impact that it had on Ale brewing in the capital.

"We have already stated that until lately London was only famous for its porter and stout. The release of the beer trade in 1830 from the shackles of the excise first gave an impetus to the ale trade, and soon raised it into importance. Before that time beer as well as spirits was only sold in houses licensed by the magistracy. The new Beer Bill, by allowing it to be sold under an excise licence only, opened the trade to a new class of dealers, who at once took up the ale trade, and were the immediate cause of the success of several new breweries which at first devoted themselves to the production of a class of malt liquors to compete with the old-fashioned porter and stout of the old-established porter brewers. The effect of this competition was so striking, that nearly all the porter brewers soon became ale brewers also, and the new ale brewers became also porter brewers, so that by referring to the list we shall introduce hereafter, it will be seen, that whilst the old brewers have rapidly extended their trade from 370,000 quarters in 1830, to 500,000 quarters in 1850, or 33 per cent., the six new breweries have risen in the same time, from 57,000 quarters in 1830, to 110,000 quarters in 1850. But for the wise alteration of the law in 1830, this enormous increase of trade must have been monopolized by the first houses, the public would neither have had such cheap nor such good beer, and the retail trade would have been confined now, as it then was, to licensed public-houses, nine out of every ten of which either belong to, or are under the control of, the large porter brewers. It is quite a different state of things with the best beer retailers, who buy their beer where they can get it the best and the cheapest, and whose business, confined as it is to the sale of beer, can only be retained, as in all other trades, by the supply of the best and cheapest article.

The rapidity with which two or three of the new breweries have risen is one of the evidences of the facility with which capital is found in this country for every enterprise which shows a fair prospect of realizing a profit; though rapidly as these have extended their operations, it hardly equals that of their older rivals, for it is scarcely 70 years since that the vast establishment of Messrs. Barclay, Perkins, and Co., now employing a million and a half of capital, was bought of the executors of Thrale, the friend of Johnson, for the sum of £135,000, Mr. Perkins having been previously to that time the manager of the brewery at a salary of £500 per annum. The rise of Messrs. Truman and Co. has been equally wonderful. We will close this account of the London breweries, almost national establishments from their vastness, by a table showing the quantity of malt used in the fifteen largest houses in each of the three years, 1830-1, 1840-1, 1849-50.

1830-1 1840-1 1849-50
Barclay and Co. 97,198 106,345 115,542
Truman and Co. 50,724 88,132 105,022
Whitbread and Co. 49,713 51,482 51,800
Reid and Co. 43,380 47,960 56,640
Coombe and Co. 34,684 36,460 43,282
Calvert and Co. 30,525 30,615 28,630
Meux and Co. 24,339 39,583 59,617
Hoare and Co. 24,102 29,450 35,000
Elliott and Co. 19,444 25,275 29,558
Taylor 21,845 27,300 15,870
Goding 16,307 14,631 13,064
Charrington 10,531 18,328 21,016
Courage 8,116 11,532 14,469
Thorne 1,445 20,846 22,022
Mann 1,302 11,654 24,030
Total 433,655 559,613 635,562


We believe we may state that most of these establishments will be open to the inspection of respectable foreigners during the period of the Exhibition. We are sure they will find them well worthy of their attention, and will amply repay the time and trouble required to visit them."
"London exhibited in 1851", edited by John Weale, 1851, pages 272-273.
Allowing beer-only pubs to be licensed outside the control of the magistrates - and making the granting of these licences automatic if certain basic conditions were met - had a huge effect. The idea had been to establish a free trade in beer and, to some extent, this was what happened. Thousands of beer houses opened forming a new competition for the established fully-licensed houses.

I'm intrigued by the claim that 90% of the fully-licensed houses had been tied to Porter brewers. I thought it was only at the end of the century that the majority of pubs became tied. I do know that before 1830, Porter brewers only tied their pubs for Porter and Stout. Logical enough as most of them didn't brew Ale. In the 1830's Truman, Whitbread and Barclay Perkins all began brewing Ale. And tying their pubs for Ale, too.

The first nine breweries in the table were all Porter breweries. The rest, apart from Courage, were Ale brewers. To get a rough estimate of the number of barrels they brewed multiply the number of quarters by four. Charrington's production doubled between 1830 and 1850, but it's Mann that showed the biggest increase in output.

Mann continued to make up ground over the rest of the 19th century and by the eve of WW I had overtaken all of the Porter breweries save for Whitbread:

Output of large London breweries (barrels)
Year Barclay Perkins Whitbread Truman Mann
1850 397,360 177,555 388,475 97,802
1860 421,286 242,848 457,796 128,179
1870 410,710 225,600 509,447 217,575
1880 249,744 456,393 231,942
1890 522,645 357,878 453,336 293,845
1900 589,201 693,706 505,341 500,029
1901 573,302 726,622 480,552 557,403
1910 500,205 800,011 365,520 590,608
1913 587,547 850,756 441,858 611,704
Sources:
"The British Brewing Industry, 1830-1980" T. R. Gourvish & R.G. Wilson, pages 610-611.
Document ACC/2305/1/711/1 held at the London Metropolitan Archives

Now wasn't that instructive?



Thursday, 24 April 2014

San Diego schedule


The schedule for my San Diego trip has firmed up, much like an unwanted rumbling in the trousers on the bus-ride home.

This is the plan:

Thursday 15th May
16:00 – 18:00 Stone Liberty Station
I give a talk about about historic brewing techniques and sign books. If you're lucky it may only last 90 minutes. Buy my book in sufficient quantities and I might keep in shorter.


Friday 16th May
16:00 – 18:00 Stone brewery, Escondido
Meet and Greet plus book signing. Your chance to bend my ear and improve my bank balance.


Saturday 17th May
11:00 - 13:00 ChuckAlek Independent Brewers, Ramona
I chat informally talk about historic brewing, do a homebrewer's Q & A and sign books. Informal or not, you may need to remind me after an hour I'm supposed to be answering questions, too.


18:00 The Brew Project
British Fungus - a talk aimed at professional brewers about Brettanomyces in British brewing. One of my favourite topics. Dragging me offstage may be required.


Come along, ask me questions, buy my book. Buy me beer, too (how did I forget that ?).



Stone Brewing Co.
1999 Citracado Parkway
Escondido, CA 92029
http://www.stonebrew.com/


Stone Liberty Station
2816 Historic Decatur Rd #116‎
San Diego, CA 92106
http://www.stonelibertystation.com/


ChuckAlek Independent Brewers
2330 Main St, Suite C
Ramona, CA 92065
http://www.chuckalek.com/


The Brew Project
1735 Hancock St #1,
San Diego, CA 92101
http://thebrewproject.com/


The Home Brewer's Guide to Vintage Beer
http://www.amazon.com/Home-Brewers-Guide-Vintage-Beer/dp/1592538827

Hoare Porter 1870 - 1930

I realise that I've never paid that much attention to one of the great London Porter breweries: the Red Lion Brewery. It operated under several different names, but ended its days as Hoare & Co.

I think I understand some of the reasons why. First and foremost is that, unlike its 18th-century rivals Barclay Perkins, Whitbread and Truman, none of its brewing records survive. Fortunately, the brewery did hang around until the 1930's, which means I have details of plenty of their beers, courtesy of the Whitbread and Truman Gravity Books. Enough for several posts like this.

I'm going to start with the beer that made the Red Lion Brewery famous: Porter. It seems logical enough.

I'm lucky to have one analysis from the 19th-century. It looks pretty standard for that era: a gravity of 1050-something and about 75% attenuation.

Moving on to the 20th-century, I'm a bit surprised at how up and down the gravity is, ranging from 1031.9º to 1039.8º. Most Porter of the time were about in the middle of that, at 1034-37º.

For most of its life, Porter had about 75% attenuation. In the 18th century that was a pretty high rate of attenuation, better than most types of beer. It remained around that level through the 19th century, when other styles caught it up or even overtook it. That's why I'm shocked to see how poorly attenuated some of these samples are. Under 65% is lower than I would expect. In a couple of cases it looks like it's an attempt to compensate for a low OG.

Given the lowish degree of attenuation and modest gravity, it's only logical that the ABV hovers around the just about intoxicating level.

Hoare Porter 1870 - 1930
Year Beer Style Price size package Acidity FG OG ABV App. Atten-uation
1870 Porter Porter 1.5d pint draught 0.18 1013 1052.42 5.23 75.22%
1922 Porter Porter pint draught 1039.8
1922 Porter Porter pint draught 1036
1922 Porter Porter 6d pint draught 1009.7 1033.7 3.11 71.22%
1922 Porter Porter 6d pint draught 1011 1037.3 3.41 70.51%
1922 Porter Porter 6d pint draught 1010.5 1035 3.17 70.00%
1922 Porter Porter 6d pint draught 1010.8 1033.8 2.98 68.05%
1923 Porter Porter 6d pint draught 1010.2 1034.2 3.11 70.18%
1923 Porter Porter 6d pint draught 1011.7 1033.2 2.78 64.76%
1923 Porter Porter 6d pint draught 1011.6 1032.6 2.71 64.42%
1923 Porter Porter 6d pint draught 1009.8 1034.5 3.20 71.59%
1923 Porter Porter 6d pint draught 1008.4 1031.9 3.05 73.67%
1926 Porter Porter 5d pint draught 1039.8
1928 Porter Porter 5d pint draught 1013.4 1037.9 3.17 64.64%
1929 Porter Porter pint draught 1038.3
1929 Porter Porter pint draught 1038.2
1929 Porter Porter 5d pint draught 0.06 1009.2 1038.3 3.78 75.98%
1929 Porter Porter 5d pint draught 0.08 1009.6 1038.2 3.71 74.87%
1930 Porter Porter 5d pint draught 1010.8 1035 3.13 69.14%
1930 Porter Porter 5d pint draught 1009 1037 3.63 75.68%
1930 Porter Porter 5d pint draught 0.07 1006.6 1034 3.56 80.59%
1930 Porter Porter 5d pint draught 1010.2 1037 3.47 72.43%
Sources:
British Medical Journal June 25th 1870, page 658.
Whitbread Gravity book held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document number LMA/4453/D/02/001
Truman Gravity Book held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document number B/THB/C/252

What Next? Stout, perhaps.

Wednesday, 23 April 2014

Courage Porter and Stout 1920 - 1928 (part two)

It seems like ages since the first part of my look at Courage Porter and Stout in the 1920's. That's because I wrote it a couple of weeks ago. Even though I only posted it a few days ago.

That's the way I work: way in advance, mostly. My life is so busy currently that I need to keep on top of my blog posts. I wouldn't want to miss a day.

I won't bother discussing the Porter and Stout separately because they were always parti-gyled together.

The recipes in the early years aren't a million miles away from the classic 19th-century Porter grists: a combination of pale, brown and black malts. With a small amount - less than 10% of the total - sugar thrown in. One difference with the 1800's is the proportion of black and brown malt. They would have been the other way around: 15-20% brown and 5% black.

Here are Courage's grists from the 1860's for comparison purposes:

Courage Porter and Stout grists in 1867
Beer OG lbs hops/ qtr hops lb/brl pale malt brown malt black malt
Stout 1067.31 11.43 4.42 76.78% 19.35% 3.87%
Porter 1057.06 9.38 2.37 76.26% 18.65% 5.09%
Source:
Courage brewing record held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document number ACC/2305/08/275.

I'm not totally sure what they mean by black invert. It could be No. 4 invert under a different name.

The grists from later in the decade contain a couple of significant differences.  Crystal malt and oats have been added. The latter presumably because some was marketed as Oatmeal Stout, which was very popular between the wars. The quantity is considerably more than at London rivals Barclay Perkins and Whitbread. Oats made up less than 0.5% of Whitbread's grist and less than 0.25% of Barclay Perkins'. Way too little to have any noticeable effect. The 5% Courage used may well have been discernible.

It's all change with the sugars. Out go the caramel and black invert, and in comes cane sugar (West Indies and Mauritius) and proprietary sugars (CDM and Durax). Overall the sugar content rose from under 10% to getting on for 15%. This was at the expense of the roasted malts, whose combined share declined from around 20% to just 10%. Presumably the proprietary sugars were emulating the roasted malt character.

There are two consistent factors in the hopping: West Coast and English hops. Which is pretty typical for between the wars. The Alsace and Poperinge hops which pop up occasionally were cheap alternatives.

Here's the full grist table:

Courage Porter and Stout grists 1920 - 1928
Year Beer OG pale malt brown malt black malt crystal malt oats no. 3 sugar caramel black invert Duttson CDM West Indian/Mauritius Durax hops
1920 Double Stout 1043.8 68.21% 9.27% 13.91% 1.55% 7.06% Californian, Alsace and English.
1920 Stout 1047.4 72.26% 7.30% 10.22% 3.41% 6.81% Californian, Poperinge and English
1921 Stout 1043.8 68.59% 9.01% 13.16% 1.85% 7.39% Californian, Alsace and English.
1923 Stout 1043.8 66.21% 6.90% 10.34% 6.21% 4.60% 5.75% Pacific and English
1926 Stout 1045.4 65.58% 5.58% 5.58% 5.58% 4.65% 5.89% 7.13% Oregon and English
1927 Stout 1045.4 64.71% 5.23% 5.23% 5.23% 6.54% 5.88% 7.19% Oregon and English
1928 Stout 1046.5 59.06% 6.61% 6.61% 6.61% 6.61% 4.09% 6.61% 3.78% Oregon, British Columbian and English
1920 Porter 1029.6 68.59% 9.01% 13.16% 1.85% 7.39% Californian, Alsace and English.
1921 Porter 1029.6 68.59% 9.01% 13.16% 1.85% 7.39% Californian, Alsace and English.
1922 Porter 1032.7 66.12% 6.91% 9.87% 4.61% 7.89% 4.61% Californian and English
1922 Porter 1032.7 66.02% 6.80% 9.71% 4.85% 8.09% 4.53% Californian and English
1923 Porter 1032.7 66.21% 6.90% 10.34% 6.21% 4.60% 5.75% Pacific and English
1926 Porter 1032.7 62.34% 6.39% 6.39% 6.39% 5.33% 5.86% 7.28% Oregon and English
1926 Porter 1032.7 65.58% 5.58% 5.58% 5.58% 4.65% 5.89% 7.13% Oregon and English
1927 Porter 1032.7 64.71% 5.23% 5.23% 5.23% 6.54% 5.88% 7.19% Oregon and English
1928 Porter 1032.7 59.06% 6.61% 6.61% 6.61% 6.61% 4.09% 6.61% 3.78% Oregon, British Columbian and English
Source:
Courage brewing records held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document numbers ACC/2305/08/251, ACC/2305/08/253, ACC/2305/08/255 and ACC/2305/08/256.

As Courage brewed a limited range of beers, we've just one set to go, Strong Ales. I'm sure I'll get around to that sometime soon.

Tuesday, 22 April 2014

Hoare Pale Ale quality 1922 - 1925

Here's another series you probably hoped I'd forgotten about: draught beer quality in 1920's London pubs.

I've still barely scratched the surface. There's a long, long way to go yet.

But first, the story of yet another brewery fire:

"FIRE AT HOARE'S BREWERY.- The greatest possible alarm was raised during Thursday night in consequence of a report being raised that the premises of Messrs. Hoare, the well-known brewers in Lower East Smithfield, were on fire. The intelligence was promptly forwarded to the brigade engine stations, and in the course of a few minutes Mr. Fogo, the foreman of the district, attended with three engines, when it was found that the outbreak had taken place in No. 13 sampling-store, but what cause could not be ascertained. Owing to the exertions of the workmen and firemen, the games were confined to that part of the premises in which they commenced, but not until a wooden closet and about 20 dozen bottles of stout, &c., were destroyed. Considering the extent of the premises the damage may be described as inconsiderable, and the business will not in the least degree be retarded by the outbreak. The firm is insured in the Sun, Union, Phoenix, and Imperial fire-offices."
London Daily News - Saturday 08 October 1859, page 7.

It's no wonder they raised a serious alarm. Brewery fires could be pretty dangerous if they got a hold - as the 1832 fire at Barclay Perkins demonstrates. Though this one doesn't appear to have been that destructive. Only a cupboard and 240 bottles of beer were lost. Bugger all, really, for a brewery of Hoare's size. In money terms, just £4 to £5.

Right, on with Hoare's Pale Ale. As a reminder, their Burton Ale came 10th of 14 with a score of 0.67.  Their Mild 9th of 17 with a score of 0.30. That's middling to poor.

This is an 8d/7d Ordinary Bitter type. The gravity is scarily close to the average of beers of this type, which is 1046º. But, because its attenuation is below the average of 80%, it has a little lower ABV.


Hoare Pale Ale quality 1922 - 1925
Year Beer FG OG ABV App. Atten-uation Appearance Flavour score Price
1922 PA 1011.2 1045.7 4.48 75.49% grey v fair 2 8d
1922 PA 1013.8 1047.3 4.34 70.82% bright rather poor -1 8d
1922 PA 1012.7 1046.2 4.35 72.51% bright good 2 8d
1922 PA 1012 1047 4.54 74.47% bright v thin -2 8d
1923 PA 1014.4 1044.9 3.95 67.93% hazy unpleasant after flavour -2 8d
1923 PA 1010.8 1046.3 4.61 76.67% not quite bright poor -1 8d
1923 PA 1010.8 1046.3 4.61 76.67% not bright poor -1 8d
1923 PA 1012.2 1046.7 4.48 73.88% bright fair 1 7d
1923 PA 1012.6 1045.6 4.28 72.37% not bright poor -1 7d
1925 PA 1010.6 1047.1 4.75 77.49% brilliant v good 3 7d
Average  1012.1 1046.3 4.44 73.83% 0.00
Source:
Whitbread Gravity book held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document number LMA/4453/D/02/001

What can I say except what a mixed bunch. Five out of ten were clear, which I now realise isn't too bad. But only four got positive score for flavour, which isn't very good. It's only because there were two twos and one three in the positives that the overall average is zero.

It's interesting to see that there's no correlation between clarity and quality. Two of the bright samples got negative flavour scores and one of the best for flavour wasn't bright. Not sure what to make of that.

Based on these results, I'd be pretty wary of ordering Bitter in a Hoare tied house.

Monday, 21 April 2014

A second San Diego event


Here's early warning of a second event I'll be doing while in San Diego next month.

It's one aimed at professional brewers and will dfeature me talking about the role of Brettanomyces in British brewing. I think it's a pretty damn interesting hour or so of bug fun.

These are the details:



18:00 at The Brew Project
1735 Hancock St #1,
San Diego, CA 92101
http://thebrewproject.com/

You can find more information here.


In addition to hear my gentle East Midlands tone, you'll also have a chance to see just how dreadful my handwriting is when I (hopefully) sign lots of copies of my books. Try to get in early, as my writing doesn't get any better as the evening progresses.

The Home Brewer's Guide to Vintage Beer
http://www.amazon.com/Home-Brewers-Guide-Vintage-Beer/dp/1592538827