Heading to the pub

Frustrated by a couple of hours spent trying to get mobile data, it's time to head to the pub. Luckily, Santo Remedio is just 50 metres away. And should have opened 5 minutes ago.

Of course, it's not actually open yet. Though some of the window shutters are open. I can see staff inside and I ask:

“Are you open?”

“No. In 15 minutes.”

Time for a bit of a wander.

One of the reasons I’ve long wanted to visit Buenos Aires is its architecture. Which sounds dead interesting. My morning odyssey revealed a bit. Surprisingly variable scale. Lots of fancy plaster work and cast-iron railings. High, ornate doorways. 

Parking garages in every random spot. Quite a bit of dogshit. Best watch my step.

Bar Saeta.

A backstreet, corner pub, Bar Saeta. Since 1962, “Every Tuesday two for one vermouth.” Sadly, to time to stop. Just across, a swanky meat restaurant.

Tram tracks embossed into cobbles. Bright murals I don’t understand.

A literal soup kitchen. Customers eating street-bound outside. I walk discreetly past. 

A Buenos Aires street.

I see quite a lot in the 30 minutes before returning to Santo Remedio. There’s my optimism at work. The bloke told me 15 minutes. Half an hour, maybe, then? That might be pushing it a bit.

It is, indeed, open. I’m their first customer.

It’s a specialist beer place. With the customary Wall of Taps. A smoking Franka Zappa rather scarily peering around it.

Santo Remedio wall of beer taps.

I have a couple of beers. To be precise, Astor A.M. IPA. Jabalina Doble IPA Fake News. And Kellan Imperial Stout. All pretty decent. 

I’ m happy just to be relaxing, beer in hand. Having a moment of calm. I’ve come to love a quiet daytime pub. The daylight. The quiet. The lack of fucking people.

Their other speciality: hot dogs. A Venna hot dog fills a hole. My stomach thought my throat had been cut. Though, obviously, the steady flow of beer was a hint that hadn’t occurred.

When I get back to my hotel at 13:00, my room is ready. Inside, I go to plug in my laptop. And realise they have a unique socket here. I feel a total idiot. It’s the sort of basic travel error that greatly amuses me when it’s made by others.

I return to my oldest friend on reception

“Where can buy an adaptor.?”

“You don’t have to. You can borrow one.”

“That would be brilliant.”

There’s my arse saved. Beginning to think my preparations for this trip weren’t quite extensive enough.

After firing up my computer, I pour myself a whisky. A big one. I’d anticipated a much simpler day.

A glass of rather sludgy IPA.

Some judges are meeting up in Santo Remedio before going to the dinner in Sashimiya, a Japanese restaurant. I trail on down there. Obviously. Not just because I took a liking to the place earlier. I’m a very sociable chap. 

Too sociable Dolores might say. More likely. “It’s another way of saying alcoholic.” She can be quite direct. Or: “Right. Too ‘sociable’.”

But I am really looking forward to meeting the other judges. That’s why I make these trips. As a man with both feet firmly planted in old age, I have limited opportunities for new social encounters. Or any social encounters. I’m delighted when they do come along.

The rest of the evening is filled with a happy combination of sushi and beer. And is surprisingly vague 

Walking back to the hotel, I'm feeling totally knacked. But loving Buenos Aires.

Sleep quickly overtakes me, without even a whisky to push me over the cliff edge, like a disappointed lover.




SAETA Cafe
Chile 602, 
C1098AAN Cdad. Autónoma de Buenos Aires.


Santo Remedio
Chile 700, 
C1098AAN Cdad. Autónoma de Buenos Aires.


Asambleas del Pueblo Comedor Popular
Chacabuco 608, 
C1097 Cdad. Autónoma de Buenos Aires.
https://lavaca.org/notas/no-es-magia-cronica-de-un-comedor-hoy/

A very noble enterprise, providing food to those in need. As they were distributing as I passed by, obviously I didn’t take any photos, as I’m not a fucking ghoul.


Sashimiya
México 1965, 
C1222ABC Cdad. Autónoma de Buenos Aires, Argentina

 

Disclaimer: my hotel, some meals and some drinks were paid for by Copa Argentina de Cervezas.