Football pilgrimage

I've had a really good sleep. My cold has got much better. Though I still feel quite tired.

While I'm writing up yesterday, I cough rather heavily and feel something wet on my face and chest. It's blood. My nose has started bleeding. Just as well I haven't put my shirt on yet as it would be covered in blood. I stuff some toilet paper up it and carry on typing.

The kids trail by a little after ten. Me and Alexei go to the cafe next to the fountain covered in padlocks.

We both get cafe con leche and an empanada. There's a football match on the TV. Of course, there is. Penarol (sounds like the name of a painkiller) against someone or other. There's a banner at one end of the ground saying "Barra Amsterdam". What's that all about?

"Dad, have you watched any David Lynch films?"

"Yes, Blue Velvet. The person I was with said ’Never take me to a film like that again.’"

"Did you like it?"

"Not hugely. More than my companion, though."

"Was it weird like all his other films?"

"Yes."

"You don't want to see what his dreams are like."

"No. Definitely not. Mine are bad enough."

"Don't you like surreal films?"

"Yes. But his are a bit bleak"

Today's plan is easy. We're going to the football museum. Being a bit away from our hotel, we get an Uber. Which gives us a chance to see some more of the city.

The museum is housed in the Centenary Stadium. As we drive around the ground, I notice that part of it is called the Amsterdam stand. That explains the banner this morning. As that game was played here.

It's only 7 euros to get in. Though it's half that for Uruguayans.

It's pretty interesting. With a lot of emphasis on Uruguay's two Olympic victories, in 1924 and 1928, plus their World Cup triumphs of 1930 and 1950.

There's also information about the construction of the ground, which was specifically built for the first World Cup in 1930. And hosted the first final. It was thrown up pretty quickly, only being started in 1929.

After looking around the museum, we go into the stands. It's much the same as when opened. Which means it doesn't look all that safe by modern standards.

When we're done in the museum, Alexei finds a restaurant a few minutes’ walk away.

Ombú is a modern bar restaurant. Without many customers. Though it is a quiet time of day

Time for food. And drinks, of course. A big bottle of Zillertal beer for the kids to share. Rum for me. Alexei has a toastie. While I have an empanada. Andrew just has a bite of Alexei's toastie. They have quite an impressive empanada range. For a Change, I go for a ham and boiled egg filling.

The waitress is very friendly. Despite not speaking English. We manage to get across what we want.

It's an interesting area, built around the same time as the stadium. Many houses having an art deco look.

“The streets look quite English.” Alexei remarks.

He’s right. Terraced housing lines the streets. Though mostly every house is different. Unlike in England.

There’s ancient tree outside the restaurant. Judging by the size of the trunk, it must be several centuries old. It’s on a little roundabout and it looks like the roads have been built around it.

The waitress comes by and gives us a free thing. I think it’s a sort of fried bread. It tastes pretty good. In a very unhealthy sort of way.

Another Uber has us back in my room for some more chilling. After a quick nip to the supermarket.

Where to eat this evening? We still haven't tried a chivito. So we drop by La Pasiva again.

Me and Alexei share a chivito. Though he eats most of it. Andrew has a toastie. Beer for the kids, a glass of wine for me. It's OK, but not as good as yesterday's, which was excellent.

"Did you notice that the national dishes of Chile and Uruguay both start with a 'ch'?" Alexei asks.

"And both include a pile of chips." I reply.

"Yes, that too."

"It can't be a coincidence. Someone must be behind it. Probably the Welsh."

"The Welsh?"

"Yes. They secretly control the world."

"You're talking crap again, Dad."

"Am I? Why do you think they're always singing?"

"What's that got to do with controlling the world?"

"Everything, Lexie, everything."

"Dad, can you just shut up with this bollocks?" Andrew remarks bluntly.

Alexei has been dying to try some cake. And orders a slice of chocolate cake. It's very good.

While he's eating it, a pro-Palestinian demonstration trails by in the rain.

When it's time to leave, it's chucking it down. Thunder roars out. People scurry about the streets. I follow suit.

Not having eaten much, I nip into the supermarket for French bread, cheese and salami. I quickly dash back to the hotel through the rain. Which, luckily, is nearby It's the first rain we've seen on the trip.

Alexei goes back to his room quite early. Leaving Andrew to sleep in my room. Because Andrew kept him awake last night chatting.

I go to bed around midnight, leaving Andrew to fiddle on my laptop.



Ombú Bar
4V33+P45,
11600 Montevideo,
Departamento de Montevideo.



La Pasiva
18 de julio 1251 esquina,
11100 Montevideo,
Departamento de Montevideo.