Saturday 21 December 2013

Whitbread K Ales in the 1870's

It seems like several years ago I started this series on Whitbread's K Ales. At this rate, I may just finish before I expire.

It's a momentous, er, moment in the history of Whitbread's Ales. Why? We'll be getting to that in a minute. After I've run through a few other things in excruciating detail.

First let's look at the changes in K Ales since the last decade. The table shows a continued decline in gravity of both KK and KKK - 3%-odd. Not huge, but over the whole century such small changes add up. As you can see by comparing the figures from the 1840's and the 1870's. OG is down almost 16% for KK and 13% for KKK. There's been a similar fall in ABV and, for KKK, even a fall in the degree of apparent attenuation.

The hopping rates are more complicated. They're slightly down on the 1860's, but more than 50% higher than in the 1840's. Such a big change must have altered the character of the finished beers. Why did they up the hop rate so much? No idea. If you have an explanation, feel free to chip in.

period beer OG FG ABV App. Atten-uation lbs hops/ qtr hops lb/brl
1840's KXX 1089.0 1031.3 7.63 64.87% 10.10 3.96
1860's KK 1078.1 1027.4 6.70 64.76% 15.98 6.4
1870's KK 1075.1 1024.9 6.63 66.86% 15.34 5.22
difference 1860's - 1870's -3.83% -9.09% -0.98% 3.25% -4.04% -18.33%
difference 1840's - 1870's -15.64% -20.35% -13.09% 3.07% 51.92% 31.83%
1840's KXXX 1097.7 1030.8 8.85 68.42% 8.99 3.92
1860's KKK 1087.5 1028.9 7.30 67.01% 15.91 6.79
1870's KKK 1084.8 1032.2 6.98 62.12% 15.21 6.19
difference 1860's - 1870's -3.08% 11.57% -4.34% -7.30% -4.42% -8.92%
difference 1840's - 1870's -13.26% 4.47% -21.14% -9.20% 69.14% 57.86%
Sources:
Whitbread brewing records held at the London Metropolitan Archives.

The level of attenuation of the K Ales still looks pretty low at well under 70%. But remember that these were Stock Ales which would have been stored for perhaps a year or more before sale. During which time Brettanomyces would have been nibbling away slowly at the remaining sugars. The true final gravity was doubtless a good bit lower. How can I say for sure there would have been a secondary Brettanomyces fermentation? Because the customers would have complained if there hadn't been. If you were buying Stock Ale, you'd expect the "aged" flavour imparted by Brettanomyces.

Before we go any further, I have to point out something I noticed when looking at the X Ales. For this decade I've examples from both the winter and summer months. And there's a clear difference in the hopping. I've seen brewing manuals advise a higher hopping rate for the warmer months and here it's plain to see. 10%-15% per quarter, 14%-30% per barrel.

period beer OG FG ABV App. Atten-uation lbs hops/ qtr hops lb/brl
1870's summer X 1062.2 1019.0 5.72 69.49% 8.33 2.32
1870's winter X 1061.4 1018.0 5.75 70.71% 6.03 1.63
difference summer - winter -1.29% -5.19% 0.49% 1.75% -27.56% -29.79%
1870's summer XL 1069.7 1022.2 6.28 68.17% 8.74 2.83
1870's winter XL 1069.0 1023.0 6.08 66.69% 7.47 2.36
difference summer - winter -1.02% 3.61% -3.18% -2.17% -14.51% -16.54%
1870's summer XX 1079.0 1031.1 6.34 60.62% 9.10 3.41
1870's winter XX 1077.6 1023.6 6.28 61.27% 8.14 2.93
difference summer - winter -1.87% -24.07% -0.87% 1.08% -10.58% -14.14%

(The figures are derived from the other and previous tables.)

A continued reduction in Whitbread's range of X Ales - this time XXX has disappeared, has left only one meaningful comparison. The only two beers to still share a strength band, XX and KK. This whittling down of the strong Milds is probably connected with the most fascinating insight these figures have given me: the weakening of the connection between K and X Ales. The hopping rate of XX is 44% lower per quarter and 39% lower per barrel. About what I'd expect.

period beer OG FG ABV App. Atten-uation lbs hops/ qtr hops lb/brl
1870's KK 1075.1 1024.9 6.63 66.86% 15.34 5.22
1870's XX 1078.4 1030.7 6.30 60.8% 8.64 3.20
difference: 4.43% 23.33% -4.97% -9.09% -43.64% -38.76%

Now here's the best bit. Looking at the recipes, for the first time there are significant differences between the K and X Ales. No longer is the K Ale just a more heavily hopped version of the X Ale. The grists aren't the same. This is the start of the process which, by the 1930's, would leave Mild and Burton with significantly different recipes.

Looking at the K Ales first, they have grists of around 85% pale malt and 15% sugar. Given all that sugar, it's surprising how poor the attenuation is. What type of sugar is it? Probably No. 1 or No. 2 invert. Looking at the recipes, those K Ales  are starting to look quite like Pale Ales, just higher gravity and not quite as heavily hopped.

Now look at the X Ales. Only one contains sugar and about a quarter contain a small quantity of brown malt. Which is why, unlike in some of the earlier decades, K and X Ales were never parti-gyled together in the 1870's.

There's also a notable difference in the type of hops used. More than half the K Ales contain only English hops. Almost every X Ale does. Poperinghe and Belgian hops both only occur in X Ales. My conclusion: they used better quality hops in the K Ales. Which, of course, makes sense.

Nothing remains but to show you the final tables.

Whitbread K Ales in the 1870's
Date Year Beer OG FG ABV App. Atten-uation lbs hops/ qtr hops lb/brl boil time (hours) boil time (hours) Pitch temp max. fermen-tation temp length of fermen-tation (days)
6th Dec 1871 KK 1078.7 1029.9 6.45 61.97% 15.36 6.31 58º º
17th Oct 1872 KK 1075.1 1017.5 7.62 76.75% 14.10 4.98 58º º
25th Sep 1873 KK 1078.4 1028.3 6.63 63.96% 14.20 5.50 58º 72º 3 + 3
11th Dec 1874 KK 1075.9 1030.5 6.01 59.85% 13.64 5.14 57º 73º 4 + 3
15th Nov 1875 KK 1073.4 1022.2 6.78 69.81% 14.85 5.23 1.75 3.17 56º 72º 4 + 5
24th Nov 1876 KK 1073.1 1023.3 6.60 68.18% 13.08 4.39 1.75 2.83 58º 73º 4 + 4
17th Apr 1877 KK 1073.4 1021.6 6.85 70.57% 15.88 5.44 1.75 2.58 58º 71.5º 4 + 5
25th Jan 1878 KK 1069.3 1023.5 6.05 66.00% 15.08 4.87 1.75 3 58º 75.5º 5 + 6
4th Dec 1879 KK 1078.4 1027.7 6.71 64.66% 21.84 5.10 2 3 58º º 9
9th Feb 1870 KKK 1084.8 1029.1 7.37 65.69% 14.38 6.21 1.5 2 58º º 6
27th Mar 1871 KKK 1085.0 1035.5 6.56 58.31% 13.51 5.97 2.5 58º º 5
27th Nov 1872 KKK 1085.0 1034.1 6.74 59.93% 14.36 6.85 58º º
23rd Sep 1873 KKK 1084.5 1033.2 6.78 60.66% 14.53 6.90 58º 72º 3 + 3
6th Oct 1874 KKK 1084.8 1036.0 6.45 57.52% 11.54 4.92 58º 73º 4 + 3
6th Jan 1875 KKK 1083.4 1028.0 7.33 66.45% 14.53 6.35 57º 72.75º 4 + 4
20th Nov 1876 KKK 1085.3 1028.5 7.51 66.56% 14.17 6.24 1.75 2.5 57º 72.25º 4 + 5
19th Jan 1877 KKK 1086.4 1034.1 6.93 60.58% 14.99 5.94 2 2.75 57º 71.5º 5 + 3
28th Jan 1878 KKK 1085.6 1031.3 7.18 63.43% 15.04 6.11 2.75 57º º 9
8th Dec 1879 KKK 1083.1 25.03 6.37 2 3.08 58º º 8
Source:
Whitbread brewing records held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document numbers LMA/4453/D/01/035, LMA/4453/D/01/036, LMA/4453/D/01/037, LMA/4453/D/01/038, LMA/4453/D/01/039, LMA/4453/D/01/040, LMA/4453/D/01/041, LMA/4453/D/01/042, LMA/4453/D/01/043, LMA/4453/D/01/045 and LMA/4453/D/02/024.


Whitbread K Ale grists in the 1870's
Date Year Beer OG FG ABV App. Atten-uation pale malt sugar hops
6th Dec 1871 KK 1078.7 1029.9 6.45 61.97% 85.32% 14.68% English hops.
17th Oct 1872 KK 1075.1 1017.5 7.62 76.75% 84.68% 15.32% English hops.
25th Sep 1873 KK 1078.4 1028.3 6.63 63.96% 85.16% 14.84% English hops.
11th Dec 1874 KK 1075.9 1030.5 6.01 59.85% 86.76% 13.24% English hops.
15th Nov 1875 KK 1073.4 1022.2 6.78 69.81% 88.57% 11.43% American and Altmark hops
24th Nov 1876 KK 1073.1 1023.3 6.60 68.18% 86.82% 13.18% American and English hops.
17th Apr 1877 KK 1073.4 1021.6 6.85 70.57% 87.36% 12.64% American and English hops.
25th Jan 1878 KK 1069.3 1023.5 6.05 66.00% 86.85% 13.15% American and English hops.
4th Dec 1879 KK 1078.4 1027.7 6.71 64.66% 73.73% 26.27% American and English hops.
9th Feb 1870 KKK 1084.8 1029.1 7.37 65.69% 85.62% 14.38% American, Bavarian and English hops.
27th Mar 1871 KKK 1085.0 1035.5 6.56 58.31% 84.46% 15.54% English hops.
27th Nov 1872 KKK 1085.0 1034.1 6.74 59.93% 86.14% 13.86% English hops.
23rd Sep 1873 KKK 1084.5 1033.2 6.78 60.66% 86.37% 13.63% English hops.
6th Oct 1874 KKK 1084.8 1036.0 6.45 57.52% 87.10% 12.90% English hops.
6th Jan 1875 KKK 1083.4 1028.0 7.33 66.45% 84.82% 15.18% English hops.
20th Nov 1876 KKK 1085.3 1028.5 7.51 66.56% 86.87% 13.13% American and English hops.
19th Jan 1877 KKK 1086.4 1034.1 6.93 60.58% 88.02% 11.98% English hops.
28th Jan 1878 KKK 1085.6 1031.3 7.18 63.43% 86.50% 13.50% English hops.
8th Dec 1879 KKK 1083.1 76.28% 23.72% American, Californian and English hops.
Source:
Whitbread brewing records held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document numbers LMA/4453/D/01/035, LMA/4453/D/01/036, LMA/4453/D/01/037, LMA/4453/D/01/038, LMA/4453/D/01/039, LMA/4453/D/01/040, LMA/4453/D/01/041, LMA/4453/D/01/042, LMA/4453/D/01/043, LMA/4453/D/01/045 and LMA/4453/D/02/024.


Whitbread X Ales in the 1870's
Date Year Beer OG FG ABV App. Atten-uation lbs hops/ qtr hops lb/brl boil time (hours) boil time (hours) Pitch temp max. fermen-tation temp length of fermen-tation (days)
17th Mar 1870 X 1061.2 6.06 1.71 1.5 2 64º º
19th Jul 1871 X 1061.8 1022.2 5.24 64.13% 8.99 2.61 64º º 5
18th Oct 1872 X 1059.8 1018.3 5.50 69.44% 6.94 1.88 64º º
23rd Aug 1872 X 1065.9 1021.6 5.86 67.23% 8.66 2.54 64º º
29th Jul 1873 X 1062.0 1023.0 5.17 62.95% 8.03 2.41 64º º 5
16th Jan 1873 X 1062.3 1022.7 5.24 63.56% 5.77 1.63 64º º
18th Jul 1874 X 1060.4 1019.7 5.39 67.43% 8.40 2.33 64º 74.5º 2 + 3
19th Oct 1874 X 1061.5 1016.3 5.97 73.42% 6.43 1.63 62º 73º 2 + 3
23rd Sep 1875 X 1062.3 1019.9 5.61 68.00% 7.73 2.17 2.17 60º 71º 3 + 3
1st Nov 1875 X 1062.3 1017.5 5.94 72.00% 6.54 1.73 1.33 2 60º 72º 3 + 3
19th Oct 1876 X 1061.8 1016.1 6.05 73.99% 6.13 1.66 60º 72.5º 3 + 4
17th Jul 1876 X 1064.8 1015.8 6.49 75.64% 8.04 2.14 1.5 2 61º 73º 3 + 4
19th Jul 1877 X 1060.4 1015.8 5.90 73.85% 8.52 2.27 1.5 2.58 61º 72º 3 + 4
19th Oct 1877 X 1060.9 1019.1 5.53 68.64% 5.06 1.35 1.5 2.33 61º 72º 8
5th Feb 1878 X 1060.7 1016.6 5.83 72.60% 5.29 1.41 61º 72º 7
16th Jul 1878 X 1060.7 1015.8 5.94 73.97% 8.53 2.29 2.5 2 61º º 7
26th Jul 1879 X 1061.8 1017.2 5.90 72.20% 8.03 2.13 2 2 62º º 6
6th Jan 1879 X 1062.3 1017.5 5.94 72.00% 6.08 1.69 1.5 1.75 61º 75º 3 + 3
29th Mar 1871 XL 1067.6 1021.3 6.12 68.44% 8.14 2.67 1.5 2 60º º 6
26th Sep 1871 XL 1068.1 1024.7 5.75 63.82% 10.18 3.35 60º º
15th Jul 1872 XL 1069.3 1026.3 5.68 62.00% 9.06 2.79 60º º
10th Feb 1872 XL 1070.1 1024.9 5.97 64.43% 7.00 2.05 60º º
18th Oct 1873 XL 1070.1 1024.7 6.01 64.82% 9.11 2.99 60º 75º 3 + 3
2nd Aug 1873 XL 1071.2 1027.1 5.83 61.87% 9.09 3.08 60º 75º 5
28th Jul 1874 XL 1071.7 1023.8 6.34 66.80% 9.41 3.14 60º 75º 3 + 2
17th Feb 1875 XL 1068.4 1022.4 6.08 67.21% 8.06 2.58 59º 72.5º 3 + 3
22nd Sep 1875 XL 1069.3 1022.2 6.23 68.00% 7.79 2.49 1.5 60º 71º 3 + 3
11th Jul 1876 XL 1070.4 1019.9 6.67 71.65% 8.11 2.87 2.5 2.75 60º 72.5º 3 + 3
19th Oct 1877 XL 1068.7 1021.6 6.23 68.55% 5.06 1.52 1.5 2.33 61º 72º 8
17th Jul 1877 XL 1069.0 1016.6 6.93 75.90% 8.49 2.62 3.5 60º 72º 3 + 5
16th Jul 1878 XL 1069.3 1018.3 6.74 73.60% 8.53 2.62 2.5 2 61º º 7
29th Jul 1879 XL 1069.0 1020.8 6.38 69.88% 8.02 2.52 1.5 61º 72.5º 8
18th Mar 1879 XL 1070.4 1015.8 7.22 77.56% 6.00 1.80 1.75 2.25 61º 73º 7
26th Sep 1871 XX 1080.1 1030.2 6.60 62.28% 10.18 3.93 60º º
3rd Apr 1871 XX 1080.3 1032.7 6.30 59.31% 8.53 3.33 1.5 2 64º º 5
23rd Aug 1872 XX 1079.5 1031.9 6.30 59.93% 8.66 3.06 60º º
8th Aug 1873 XX 1077.6 1031.3 6.12 59.64% 8.47 3.23 60º 75º 3 + 2
16th Apr 1874 XX 1077.0 1029.1 6.34 62.23% 7.98 2.76 60º 75º 3 + 2
17th Feb 1875 XX 1075.9 1029.4 6.16 61.31% 8.06 2.86 59º 73.75º 3 + 3
Source:
Whitbread brewing records held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document numbers LMA/4453/D/01/035, LMA/4453/D/01/036, LMA/4453/D/01/037, LMA/4453/D/01/038, LMA/4453/D/01/039, LMA/4453/D/01/040, LMA/4453/D/01/041, LMA/4453/D/01/042, LMA/4453/D/01/043, LMA/4453/D/01/044, LMA/4453/D/01/045 and LMA/4453/D/02/024.

Whitbread X Ale grists in the 1870's
Date Year Beer OG FG ABV App. Atten-uation pale malt brown malt sugar hops
17th Mar 1870 X 1061.2 100.00% American and English hops.
19th Jul 1871 X 1061.8 1022.2 5.24 64.13% 100.00% American and English hops.
18th Oct 1872 X 1059.8 1018.3 5.50 69.44% 99.04% 0.96% American and English hops.
23rd Aug 1872 X 1065.9 1021.6 5.86 67.23% 100.00% English hops.
29th Jul 1873 X 1062.0 1023.0 5.17 62.95% 100.00% American and English hops.
16th Jan 1873 X 1062.3 1022.7 5.24 63.56% 88.50% 11.50% American, English and Belgian hops
18th Jul 1874 X 1060.4 1019.7 5.39 67.43% 100.00% American and English hops.
19th Oct 1874 X 1061.5 1016.3 5.97 73.42% 99.24% 0.76% American and English hops.
23rd Sep 1875 X 1062.3 1019.9 5.61 68.00% 100.00% Poperinghe and English  hops
1st Nov 1875 X 1062.3 1017.5 5.94 72.00% 100.00% Altmark and English hops
19th Oct 1876 X 1061.8 1016.1 6.05 73.99% 100.00% Bavarian, American and English  hops
17th Jul 1876 X 1064.8 1015.8 6.49 75.64% 100.00% American, Altmark and English hops.
19th Jul 1877 X 1060.4 1015.8 5.90 73.85% 99.36% 0.64% American and English hops.
19th Oct 1877 X 1060.9 1019.1 5.53 68.64% 99.36% 0.64% American, Altmark and English hops.
5th Feb 1878 X 1060.7 1016.6 5.83 72.60% 100.00% American and English hops.
16th Jul 1878 X 1060.7 1015.8 5.94 73.97% 100.00% American and English hops.
26th Jul 1879 X 1061.8 1017.2 5.90 72.20% 100.00% American and English hops.
6th Jan 1879 X 1062.3 1017.5 5.94 72.00% 99.24% 0.76% American and English hops.
29th Mar 1871 XL 1067.6 1021.3 6.12 68.44% 100.00% English hops.
26th Sep 1871 XL 1068.1 1024.7 5.75 63.82% 100.00% American and English hops.
15th Jul 1872 XL 1069.3 1026.3 5.68 62.00% 100.00% American and English hops.
10th Feb 1872 XL 1070.1 1024.9 5.97 64.43% 100.00% American, English and Belgian hops
18th Oct 1873 XL 1070.1 1024.7 6.01 64.82% 100.00% English hops.
2nd Aug 1873 XL 1071.2 1027.1 5.83 61.87% 100.00% American and English hops.
28th Jul 1874 XL 1071.7 1023.8 6.34 66.80% 100.00% English hops.
17th Feb 1875 XL 1068.4 1022.4 6.08 67.21% 100.00% American and English hops.
22nd Sep 1875 XL 1069.3 1022.2 6.23 68.00% 100.00% Poperinghe and English  hops
11th Jul 1876 XL 1070.4 1019.9 6.67 71.65% 100.00% American, Altmark and English hops.
19th Oct 1877 XL 1068.7 1021.6 6.23 68.55% 99.36% 0.64% American, Altmark and English hops.
17th Jul 1877 XL 1069.0 1016.6 6.93 75.90% 99.36% 0.64% American and English hops.
16th Jul 1878 XL 1069.3 1018.3 6.74 73.60% 100.00% American and English hops.
29th Jul 1879 XL 1069.0 1020.8 6.38 69.88% 100.00% American and English hops.
18th Mar 1879 XL 1070.4 1015.8 7.22 77.56% 100.00% American and English hops.
26th Sep 1871 XX 1080.1 1030.2 6.60 62.28% 100.00% American and English hops.
3rd Apr 1871 XX 1080.3 1032.7 6.30 59.31% 100.00% English hops.
23rd Aug 1872 XX 1079.5 1031.9 6.30 59.93% 100.00% English hops.
8th Aug 1873 XX 1077.6 1031.3 6.12 59.64% 100.00% American and English hops.
16th Apr 1874 XX 1077.0 1029.1 6.34 62.23% 100.00% Bavarian, Belgian and English hops
17th Feb 1875 XX 1075.9 1029.4 6.16 61.31% 100.00% American and English hops.
Source:
Whitbread brewing records held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document numbers LMA/4453/D/01/035, LMA/4453/D/01/036, LMA/4453/D/01/037, LMA/4453/D/01/038, LMA/4453/D/01/039, LMA/4453/D/01/040, LMA/4453/D/01/041, LMA/4453/D/01/042, LMA/4453/D/01/043, LMA/4453/D/01/044, LMA/4453/D/01/045 and LMA/4453/D/02/024.

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