Calcutta beer imports in 1889

A quick little post based on a tiny quote from the Brewers' Guardian. It may be brief, but it yells us some interesting facts about beer exports to India.

For one thing, it confirms that the Scots were big exporters to India. I am slightly surprised that George Younger came out top. It wasn't a particulalry big brewery. I assume that the Allo Ale mentioned was IPA, not Scotch Ale.

"Notwithstanding the growth of breweries in India, that count is taking more malt liquors from Europe than ever. Messrs. George Younger & Son’s Alloa ale heads the Calcutta imports list for last year with 260,000 gallons, followed by Pilsener with 205,000 gallons. Bass is imported at about 100,000 gallons."
"The Brewers' Guardian 1890", 1890, page 261.

It looks like pilsenere was rapidly gaining ground in India.Again, something I knew occurred, but it's nice yto have confirmation and some numbers. Bass Pale Ale, a beer very much associated with India, scores surprisingly poorly

Though, to be honest, the quatities for all three breweries are quite modest. Then again, I doubt many Indians drank beer, just their colonial masters.

Calcutta beer imports in 1889
Beer	barrels
George Younger Alloa Ale	7,222.2
Pilsenser	5,694.4
Bass Pale Ale	2,777.8
Source:
"The Brewers' Guardian 1890", 1890, page 261.

George Younger Strong and Scotch Ales 1950 - 1955

This is something I've just especially written for my new book Strong! I'm a post short for next week, so I'm going to cheat and use it on the blog, too.

Here we have a good chance to see some of the history of Scotch Ale. I don’t mean the type sold in Scotland, but those brewed for the Belgian market.

In the 20th century, Belgium was a big importer of British beer. After the gravity drop in Britain caused by WW I, this was usually specially brewed for the Belgian market. In reality, they were much like the beers sold in Britain before WW I.

These beers show us the difference in strength between beers for domestic sale and those for the Belgian market, as well as the different naming. In Scotland, it was marketed as Strong Ale, in Belgium Scotch Ale.

The Gordon’s brand is still around, though it’s now brewed in Belgium. Which means one of George Younger’s brands has lived on more than 50 years after the brewery closed. Actually, it’s not the only one of their brands that’s still knocking around. For they were also the original brewer of Sweetheart Stout.

Younger’s Scotch Ale and Strong Ale look like versions of the same beer, just with the domestic version a good bit weaker. Oh, and the colour, too. Strong Ale is a dark brown, while the Scotch Ale is on the border of dark amber and pale brown. But that doesn’t mean a different recipe was used. The colour probably just comes from a caramel addition somewhere late in the brewing process.

George Younger Strong and Scotch Ales 1950 - 1955
Year	Beer	Style	Price	size	package	Acidity	FG	OG	colour	ABV	App. Atten-uation
1950	Gordon Highland Scotch Ale	Scotch Ale			bottled	0.90	1031.1	1091.2	1 + 40	7.81	65.90%
1950	Gordon Xmas Ale (bottled in Antwerp)	Scotch Ale			bottled	0.10	1032.3	1090.7	2 + 40	7.58	64.39%
1952	Gordon Highland Scotch Ale	Scotch Ale			bottled	0.08	1026.5	1081.8	2.5 + 40	7.19	67.60%
1953	Strong Ale	Strong Ale	14.5d	nip	bottled	0.06	1021.9	1067.6	13 + 40	5.93	67.60%
1954	Gordon Highland Scotch Ale (purchased in Belgium)	Scotch Ale			bottled	0.06	1028	1090.9	60	8.20	69.20%
1955	Strong Ale	Strong Ale	15d	nip	bottled	0.05	1022.3	1067.6	100	5.87	67.01%
1955	Gordon Highland Scotch Ale (purchased in Belgium)	Scotch Ale			bottled	0.07	1029.9	1090.3	55	7.86	66.89%
Sources:
Thomas Usher Gravity Book document TU/6/11 held at the Scottish Brewing Archive
Whitbread Gravity Book document LMA/4453/D/02/002 held at the London Metropolitan Archives

From the brewing records I’ve seen, Scottish brewers rarely used coloured malts, except in Stout. And I know some Scottish brewers had multiple versions of the same beer coloured with caramel to different shades, depending on where the beer was going to be sold. That’s also how they managed to parti-gyle 60/- with 70/- and 80/- even though 60/- was much darker – basically like Dark Mild – than the other two.

Andrew Roy and Son's pure Alloa Ales

I'm still trying to get my head around how the modest town of Alloa came to be so well-known for its beers.

Newcastle Journal - Saturday 17 April 1858, page 1.

The term Alloa Ale definitely had a cachet, and was used like Burton Pale Ale or London Porter as a sign of quality.  How did Alloa's brewers achieve this? Obviously by brewing good beer, but also by selling it all over the country. In terms of distribution, Alloa and Edinburgh punched well above their weight. Without much of a home market to speak of, Scottish brewers had to seek sales elsewhere.

That explains how a relatively small brewery like Andrew Roy could be famous enough to be mentioned in the same breath as Bass or Allsopp. Admittedly, in the case of the advertisement above, their beer isn't being sold that distantly from Scotland, just in Newcastle. But they did supply London, too.

And Exeter, which is about as far away from Alloa as you can get and still be in the UK:

Exeter Flying Post - Thursday 06 May 1852, page 4.

Blair's Scotch Ale

Alloa ale. I keep telling you how famous it was. Here's some evidence, in the form of an advertisement, about just how great its renown was.

If you can tell much about a man's character by the company he keeps, the same surely applies to beer. And just look in whose company Blair's Scotch Ale was:

Exeter and Plymouth Gazette, Friday 08 July 1864, page 8.

Allsopp, Bass and Guinness. In the 1860's, they were brewing royalty. Making the most famous and widely sold beers of the day. That Blair should be listed in an advertisement with them is very significant. If only because Blair wasn't even a first division Alloa brewer.

Also significant is the price. Blair's Scotch Ale is the most expensive and by a considerable distance. About a third more than Bass or Allsopp Pale Ale and Guinness Extra Stout. All of those three were expensive beers, considerably pricier than similar beers from lesser breweries. Guinness Extra Stout was about 7.5% ABV at the time and the prices imply Blair's Scotch Ale was considerably stronger. Probably at least 10% ABV.

For a relatively small brewery, Blair's beers were widely distributed. Exeter is about as far as you can get from Alloa and remain on the British mainland.

The scale of brewing in 1860's Alloa

I was delighted to come across this article reprinted in the Journal of the Scottish Brewing Archive. Delighted because it gives some details of the size of the brewing industry in Alloa in the mid 19th century.

It contains some handy figures both on the number of workers employed and the quantity of beer brewed. Take a look.

"THE ALE TRADE - That Alloa is famous for its ales, our readers well know, but we question much if the generality of them have got the slightest idea of the immense quantity sent out, and the large number of hands employed in its manufacture. There are in all seven breweries in town, the largest of which employs about fifty hands, and the smallest not less than a dozen; or, at a rough guess, say 200 in all, make a direct livelihood by the brewing of the world-renowned "Alloa Ales." This of course is exclusive of the number employed at the breweries without the limits of the Burgh. If we take again the number of tradesmen who are indirectly connected with the manufacture of the wholesome beverage, such as coopers, we have only to mention that the Messrs Pearson have erected in Craigward Place one of the largest and most commodious cooperages, we believe, in Scotland. They entered upon their new premises on Monday last, and the number of casks turned-out by this firm in a week may be inferred from the fact that they have somewhere about fifty hands employed in their extensive premises. As to the quantity of ale manufactured. More than one firm brews about 800 barrels a week; or, taking it roughly, at say 500 each per week, gives a total of 3500 barrels. Giving 36 gallons to a barrel, we find that not less than 126,000 gallons of ale are manufactured every week in our thriving little town. To show that there is no falling of in the brewing trade, we may mention that Mr Alex. Gall. sen., contractor is at present employed in excavating a foundation for the extensive barns about to be erected by Mr John Mailer, builder, for Messrs George Younger & Son, brewers, contiguous to Messrs Pearson's cooperage. There are about 500 yards to be excavated, and as the building is to be founded on the rock, soil to depth of four feet will required to be removed."
Stirling Journal and Advertiser, 23rd March 1866

To put the number employed into context, in 1871 the population of Alloa was 9,362. With 200 working directly in brewing, it wasn't that significant an employer. But this doesn't include those employed in cooperages, malting and other auxiliary trades.It's probably safe to multiply that 200 by at least 2 or 3. Even at 600, brewing almost certainly wasn't the main employer. Then again, breweries, not even the largest, never had the thousands of workers that you might find in a steel works and a textile mill.

On to the amount of beer brewed. 3,500 barrels a week, multiplied by 52, gives 182,000 barrels annually. As I've pointed out many times before, there were half a dozen breweries in London that each brewed more than that. It sounds like the largest Alloa brewery produced 800 barrels a week, or about 40,000 barrels a year. Peanuts, really.

George Younger expanding their brewery was nothing new. They made several purchases of adjoining buildings during the 1850's and 1860's (see the map I posted a few days ago). Sadly, all that land is now occupied by a giant car park.

Alloa Ale!

Here's a change of pace: a poem. Although, obviously, I'm not leaving the narrow path of Scottish beer. I reckon I've at least another six months' worth of material. And that's not counting what I'll harvest in September  when I plan visiting Glasgow (and the Scottish Brewing Archive).

I think I might have posted some of this before. Not totally sure. Ignoring that possibility, I'll press on. Reading through the poem I had a bit of a Rab C. Nesbitt moment. It reminded me of when Rab's mates switched up a few gears to full-strength Glaswegian. I'm glad they were considerate enough to add subtitles. Because I didn't understand a word aurally.

Bear that in mind when reading this:

"Gif ye wish healthie habits an' wad be lang livers,
Then spirituous drinks ye s'oud never fash wi';
But Alloa Ale ye may drink it in rivers,
An' the deeper ye drink, aye the better ye'll be,
Sae potent as physic its virtues are valued,
They daily wha drink look hearty an' hale;
O ye a' hae heard tell o' a Balm got in Gilead,
Tak my word for't 'twas naething but Alloa Ale!

"Then countrymen croud roun' the bizzin ale bicker,
An waur na on whisky your siller an' sense ;
Nae gate ye'll fa' in wi' the like o' this liquor,
That thro' body an' saul can sic vigour dispense.
Lei nae Brandy-bibber scare you wi' his scoffin,
At prudence in drink—till he tire lat him rail ;
Ilk a dram that he drinks is a nail in his coffin,
But you'll lenthen your life-lease wi' Alloa Ale.

"Gie big-bellied John Bull his pot fu' o' Porter,
Which is far frae a wa'cast, weel worth its fair fame,
But Paddy prefers something sharper an' shorter.
An' I'm sorry to say it, some Scots do the same.
Far Hielan' bred Donald, au'laigh countrie Sannock,
Wad baith be the better an tend to my tale ;
Aye dine on the Kebbuck-kale Brose an' Bear Bannock,
An' drink when they're drouthie the Alloa Ale!"
John Imlah, 1827.

I particularly like the comment about the Irish and Highlanders preferring something shorter. And the fat English. Two-hundred year old racial stereotyping. You can't beat it. It's spot on for me, mind. Both the pot-bellied and Porter parts.

Another Younger's advert

but this time from George not William. That's the George Younger who was one of the largest breweries in Alloa,

You'll probably guess why I picked it, despite it not being a masterpiece of the advertiser's art. Advertising was much less dynamic back in the day. Dawber & Co. of Lincoln used the same advert for at least 20 years:

Lincolnshire Chronicle - Friday 14 October 1864, page 4

Lincolnshire Chronicle - Friday 01 February 1884, page 5

A good example there of the rock-solid price stability of the late Victorian period. There's no change in price over a period of 20 years. How much did I pay for beer 20 years ago? Can't remember exactly, but it was much less than I pay now.

Best get this back in focus and back to George Younger and his advert. Here it is:

Motherwell Times - Friday 22 August 1924, page 3.

No, it's not the Pale Ale that drew me to this advert like a pervert to a playground. Oh, no. It's the other product being advertised. I hesitate to call it beer because it was alcohol-free: Black Beer.

There's a funny story behind the Black Beer and other non-alcoholic products of George Younger. One that includes Bass and the local-veto legislation. Robert  Meiklejohn had first brewed in the Candleriggs Brewer, but moved to the larger Grange Brewery on the edge of town around 1852.It was a former distillery that had been converted into a brewery. The Candleriggs Brewery was purchased by George Younger, who greatly expanded it.*

Trouble started after Charles Maitland became senior partner at Meiklejohn in the late 1850's. His family crest being the Bass Rock, he changed the brewery's name to Bass Crest. You can guess what happened next. Bass were notoriously litigious in protection of their trademark. In the 50 years following 1862, Bass instigated a number of actions against Meiklejohn with regard to their trademarks. The matter was only finally brought to a close when Bass bought Meiklejohn in 1918.**

Obviously Bass had no real interest in the brewery and soon sold it on. To George Younger, in 1919. Why did Younger want another brewery in Alloa? To operate delicensed brewery of non-alcoholic beers.This is all connected with the Local Veto Act, which allowed votes on the partial or total removal of licenses from a district.*** Canny Younger's were making sure they could still sell products in areas that had become delicensed. See how the advert stresses "no licence required".

As well as Black Beer, there were also Pony Brand Temperance Stouts. The beers did contain small amounts of alcohol, being brewed from very low gravities. The Black Beer had an OG of about 1014º.  The Grange brewery continued to brew non-alcoholic beers until 1941, when it closed and became a store.****

Funny thing is, their Sweetheart Stout was barely any stronger in the 1950's. I've plenty of examples that were only about 1.5% ABV. Maybe they got their idea for from their Temperance Stout. I've just realised that I've no need to say "about" with regard to the OG of Black Beer. Because I've an analysis of it from 1922. Plus a couple of other things. Take a look:

George Younger watery beers
Year	Beer	Style	FG	OG	ABV	App. Attenuation
1922	Black Beer	Black Beer	1004	1011	0.90	63.64%
1933	Lemon shandy	Shandy	1006	1014	1.03	57.14%
1933	Sparkling Table Beer	Pale Ale	1007.5	1021	1.74	64.29%
Source:
Thomas Usher Gravity Book document TU/6/11 held at the Scottish Brewing Archive

Not sure if all of those came from the Grange Brewery. I am sure that none of them would get you pissed.




* "Alloa Ale", by Charles McMaster, 1985, page 51.
** "Alloa Ale", by Charles McMaster, 1985, page 52 - 55.
*** "Alloa Ale", by Charles McMaster, 1985, page 55.
**** "Alloa Ale", by Charles McMaster, 1985, page 55.

Guinness Double Brown Stout Porter

Given up my Scottish theme? Not a chance, as you'll see when you get a bit further.

Guinness Double Brown Stout Porter. There's a name that rolls easily off the tongue. No wonder they shortened it to Extra Stout. Here it is, with a misspelling that was to be repeated thousands of times over the years:

Carlisle Journal - Saturday 02 April 1836. page 1.

That's pretty early for Guinness in England. And confirmation - if any were needed - that Guinness Extra Stout was once called Stout Porter. That should help settle a few arguments.

Then there's the Scottish connection. McNellan, that's what later became Calder. The Shore Brewery, in both cases, was the names of the premises. But look at what they're selling: Pale Alloa Ale. It would be easy to jump to the conclusion that it was a Pale Ale. But I'd be more cautious. Just as likely it was a pale-coloured Alloa Ale, that is a strong Scotch Ale. I'd incline towards the latter as 1836 is early for a Pale Ale.

I had another post planned in this slot. One about Archibald Arrol. But I've had to postpone it. I've found a stack of related material I need go through properly first. Dead exciting stuff. Honestly. All about their financial structure.