Kettle souring

I've spent many a happy hour arguing with American home brewers that kettle souring isn't the traditional way to brew Berliner Weisse.

Franke, and his short-lived shortcut method of producing Berliner was only ever employed briefly, before being discarded for one very good reason. Which we'll get to later.

Good old Schönfeld dexcribes the method, as well as its advantages and disadvantages.

"e) Francke acidification process
Making distillery lactic acid bacteria usable for the production of Berlin Weissbier was the effort of O. Francke, who also put the process into practical use for some time. A sour starter is made from a pure culture of Bacillus Delbrücki using unhopped wort and wort, which has been run off from off the lauter tun and cooled down to 45-47ºC, is inoculated with it. Subsequent runnings must also be cooled to this temperature. The acidification takes place quickly and, depending on the circumstances, reaches a lactic acid content of 0.18-0.20% in 5-7 hours, which is enough for the formation of a sufficiently sour taste, but must not be exceeded, as this is associated with the risk that the work of the yeast is damaged both in terms of growth and fermentation ability. To prevent further acidification, the wort must then be heated to 80° C and held for one hour.

When cultivating the sour starter, it is advisable to inoculate 100 ccm of wort in the most vigorous bacterial development with new (5 l) wort, this again after reaching the highest development, which at the required optimum temperature of 45-47° C after the course of 24-28 hours is the case, is transferred to new wort (about 3–5 hl), which, with sufficient development after 24 hours, can now serve as sour starter for acidifying a brew of 30–50 hl. Inoculation material can always be removed from the sour starter for the creation of new sour starters. If the brewing does not take place continuously, but only sporadically after longer intervals, it becomes necessary to put the removed inoculum in a cold place in order to keep the lactic acid bacteria viable."
"Obergärige Biere und ihre Herstellung" by Dr. Franz Schönfeld, 2nd edition, Verlag von Paul Parey, Berlin, 1938, page 155.

Basically, you run off some unhopped wort and throw in your lactobacillus starter. Pretty simple, really. You let it sour for a few hours, then pasteurise it at 80° C. Which is a pretty high temperatue, which will also kill all the lactobacillus stone dead.

That sounds great. Much simpler than the complicated symbiotic fermentation of Saccharomyces and lactobacillus. There was just one hitch:

"Artificial (biological) acidification has the great advantage of protecting Weissbier from any kind of infection by other bacteria through the immunity it generates. It allows the abandonment of the use of the old yeast and to switch to the use of pure yeast and ensuresthe production of a long-life beer that is resistant to lengthening (Langwerden), termobacteria and acetic acid bacteria. However, these advantages did not suffice to outweigh the disadvantages, which are expressed in a shift in properties and which are considered so essential that the use of the biological acidification process, which has been tried in various practical ways, has again been abandoned. After all, the process is suitable for producing a sour and pleasant-tasting beer, even if it does not have the full characteristics of the Berlin Weissbier."
"Obergärige Biere und ihre Herstellung" by Dr. Franz Schönfeld, 2nd edition, Verlag von Paul Parey, Berlin, 1938, page 155-156.

My apologies, nut I've no idea what Langwerden is. Other than it's some sort of bacteria.

What was the problem with Francke's method? Beer produced by it didn't taste like Berliner Weisse. You could produce a pleasantly sourish beer. But without the characteristics of Berliner Weisse.

Why was that? Because it lacked the involvement of Brettanimyces, which wa responsible for an important flavour element.

Beers sweetened with sugar (Karamelbier)

It's been far too long since I posted anything from Schönfeld's "Obergärige Biere und ihre Herstellung". Having been rather distracted by working on the forthcoming book on WW II.

Today we'll be looking at another type of sweetened beer, Karamelbier. One sweetened with sugar rather than artificial sweetener. It's a type of beer which is still produced, I believe, though in tiny quantities.

I'm surprised to discover that the original production method left yeast in the beer. Which seems awfully dangerous in a beer containing lots of highly-fermentable sugar.

"c) Beers sweetened with sugar (Karamelbier)
If sweetener-sweetened beer owes its origin to the war, sugar-sweetened Malzbier (Karamelbier) appeared around 16 years earlier. The original method of production, which is still used, consists, if it is bottled beer, of adding sugar to the beer after fermentation (vat fermentation), then it is filled into bottles and, after sufficient sediment has formed, further fermentation is prevented by pasteurisation.

The formation of sediment can be accelerated by the application of heat, which is often done, and can easily be carried out in such a way that the bottles are either brought into warm rooms or straight into the pasteurisers, which have been appropriately warmed up.
"Obergärige Biere und ihre Herstellung" by Dr. Franz Schönfeld, 2nd edition, Verlag von Paul Parey, Berlin, 1938, page 135 - 136.

I guess pasteurisation would effectively avoid any bottle bombs. Newer methods of making Karamelbier sought to remove yeast from the equation:

"Soon, however, the goal became apparent to fill the sugar-sweetened beer into bottles and containers without yeast. Some proceed in such a way that they transfer the beer into a storage barrel after the sugar has been added and stop the secondary fermentation early when the beer is sufficiently saturated with carbonic acid, and then filter it. Others first filter the lagered beer and transfer it onto tanks into which the sugar solution has previously been poured. Still others add the sugar solution to the shipping barrel before the beer is drawn off.

By means of cold storage and careful filtration, the beer can be made

to contain so little yeast that,

despite its high sugar content, it can still be kept for 8 to 10 days as a draught beer, so that for customers not too distant from the brewery can be supplied without it being pasteurised, without the risk of it becoming "wild" through a vigorous secondary fermentation. Of course, the landlord also has to ensure that it is kept cool. He must not have the barrel lie under the tap for too long. He must be careful to pour the beer quickly. In accordance with sales, he should order the appropriate sizes of barrel and order smaller barrels from the brewery rather than larger ones.

The unpasteurised beer is not suitable for shipping over long distances or for longer storage at the pub. The high sugar content, provides favorable conditions for the growth of yeast, and with increasing growth the attack on the easily-fermentabe sugar increases. It is therefore one of the most important measures to bring the beer to the shipping barrel as bright as possible and thus with as little yeast as possible. But not only this, but also to transfer it with the highest possible carbonic acid content, since the carbonic acid counteracts the yeast's growth; though it is unable to stop it completely."

"Obergärige Biere und ihre Herstellung" by Dr. Franz Schönfeld, 2nd edition, Verlag von Paul Parey, Berlin, 1938, page 136. 

I'm surprised that Karamelbier was sold on draught. Especially given what sounds like an inherent instability. I've never heard of it as anything other than a bottled beer.

Does CO2 really inhibit yeast growth? Never heard of that one before. Wouldn't that bugger bottle conditioning in a beer like Duvel?

"It is therefore necessary, especially with bottled beer, whether it contains yeast or not, to ensure shelf life by pasteurisation. A sufficient level of safety is achieved by a temperature of 70-72º C, which must be maintained for one hour. Rapid cooling is not required. Experience has shown that it is more expedient and more advantageous for the beer to cool slowly, which is why certain devices, e.g. the vapour pasteuriser dispense with water cooling, but rather pull the cart loaded with the bottles out of the chambers shortly after the pasteurization and let the air in the room do the cooling.

The slow cooling has a beneficial influence on Malzbier in that it enhances the roasted, malty, bready taste that is valued in Karamelbier."

"Obergärige Biere und ihre Herstellung" by Dr. Franz Schönfeld, 2nd edition, Verlag von Paul Parey, Berlin, 1938, pages 156- 137.

I wonder why slow cooling enhanced the malt flavours? Is that why UK pasteurised beer tasted so bad? Was it cooled too quickly.

Artificially sweetened Einfachbier

The Reinheitsgebot has been very good at promoting itself. At least the bits of it  German brewers want you to know about it.

The full document, Vorläufiges Biergesetz, as it's called in German, is much longer than you might expect. And contains more ingredients than the much-touted malt, hops and water. The most surprising being artificial sweetener, which is allowed in certain types of weak, top-fermenting beer. Such as the type of beer described here:

"b) Einfachbier sweetened with artificial sweetener
Out of the old brown beers, which were not everywhere expected by customers to be weak, sweet-tasting beers, but sometimes also as moderately bitter beers, today's Einfachbier has emerged, which, as in the past, is still mostly referred to as Malzbier; according to old custom, according to which both these weak dark beers, as well as the stronger dark, top-fermented beers, are usually called by this name in trade and commerce."
"Obergärige Biere und ihre Herstellung" by Dr. Franz Schönfeld, 2nd edition, Verlag von Paul Parey, Berlin, 1938, page 135.

In the past, then, there was low, gravity Braunbier which was bitter rather than sweet. That's interesting to know. The following, I'm sure, explains one of the reasons why: the use of artificial sweetener.

"In contrast to its old predecessors, the old Braunbier, today's Einfachbier should mostly have a very sweet taste. However, added sugar will gradually ferment. The requested sweetness would be lost. The demand of the broad circles of customers could therefore only be met by adding artificial sweetener (saccharin or dulcin) for sweetening. The Beer Tax Act expressly permits this use as an exception. It was first approved in the war. However, the restriction has now been made that the sweetener may only be used in beers whose original wort content does not exceed 4% (i.e. practically in beers whose original wort content is between 3% and 4%)."
"Obergärige Biere und ihre Herstellung" by Dr. Franz Schönfeld, 2nd edition, Verlag von Paul Parey, Berlin, 1938, page 135.

This is the same reasoning as behind Milk Stout: add something which was sweet but unfermentable. It's interesting that such Einfachbier only developed during WW I. The odd  thing being that even before the introduction of the Reinheitsgebot to all of Germany in 1906, the use of saccharin hadn't been allowed in North Germany.

This is a list of substances banned everywhere in Germany in the late 19th century:

"Precedent, as established by decisions of the highest tribunals, shows that penalties have been inflicted for additions of salicylic acid, liquorice, caramel, and saccharin; also for making use of liquid carbonic acid in the manufacture of what is known as “champagne beer; "while for clarifying purposes isinglass shavings and other "finings” that will not mix with the beer, but the action of which is purely mechanical, are alone tolerated."
"The Brewers' Journal, 1898", page 243.

There were two ways such beers were prepared for sale:

"These light beers are marketed under different sales conditions.
1. As a young beer pitched with a with little yeast, and some not yet fermenting wort; tapped from larger containers by the liter while driving around; or in small barrels with a content of about 6 liters, which are preferred by households. From there it is filled into bottles, where it is ready to drink in a few days.

2. As a fermented, bright, carbonated beer, which is made ready to drink in the Brewery.
"Obergärige Biere und ihre Herstellung" by Dr. Franz Schönfeld, 2nd edition, Verlag von Paul Parey, Berlin, 1938, page 135.

Method one was the traditional way, where bottling and secondary fermentation was left to the customer. Such beer would have needed to be left for a few days to condition. With method two the brewery was carrying out the conditioning and selling the beer ready to drink.

Malzbier between the wars (part three)

I'll be gradually plodding my way through Schönfeld over the next few months. When I can be arsed to translate sections.

So many beer types to get through. And I haven't even finished Malzbier yet. Well, I will have after this post. Which describes what happened after primary fermentation:

"The beers, which at the end of primary fermentation were almost invariably characterized by a beautiful and fiery break, as long as there were no serious infections or they were brewed poorly dissolved malt, were - if they were not fully fermented in the vat - partly filled directly from the vat  into transport containers and served after a short period of bunging of about 2-3 days, partly subjected to a short secondary fermentation with an open bung in small containers, in which they were sent out immediately, before they came to be bunged."
"Obergärige Biere und ihre Herstellung" by Dr. Franz Schönfeld, 2nd edition, Verlag von Paul Parey, Berlin, 1938, page 134.

A short conditioning in the transport cask, then. Hard-spiled. It all sounds rather like cask beer, doesn't it?

Though something simialr happened with bottled variations:

"The same procedure was followed for the treatment of bottled beer. Under such conditions, addition of Kräusen was not only superfluous, but under certain circumstances harmful due to an excessive formation of sediment."
"Obergärige Biere und ihre Herstellung" by Dr. Franz Schönfeld, 2nd edition, Verlag von Paul Parey, Berlin, 1938, page 134.

Though sometimes there was a more controlled secondary fermentation at the brewery:

"In some places it was customary to transfer strong beers into lagering barrels of 8-16 hl and leave them here for a secondary fermentation with the bung open. If some beer was expelled after eight to fourteen days, they were mixed with some Kräusen, probably with sugar, too, and filled into barrels or bottles."
"Obergärige Biere und ihre Herstellung" by Dr. Franz Schönfeld, 2nd edition, Verlag von Paul Parey, Berlin, 1938, page 134.

A bit of lagering, then filling into barrels with Kräusen, which is the continental equivalent of primings. It's still sounding very much like cask beer. The beer would have needed that to build up condition after being lagered with the bung open.

This next bit answers some of the questions I had a bout the poor degree of attenuation of old German top-fermenting styles:

"The apparent degree of fermentation of all of these beers after the primary fermentation was completed was in most cases unusually low and not higher than 35-40%, although the yeast used was not, at least not exclusively, of the Saaz low-attenuating type.

Mostly they were mixtures of top- and bottom-fermenting strains in different proportions.

However, these low attenuations were by no means the lowest limits at which the yeast stopped in the primary fermentation. On various occasions it stopped fermenting at a degree of attenuation of 30%, even 24-28%, as can still be seen today when using low-attenuating pure yeast. And at the same time, the yeast is able to build up normally and reach full maturity."
"Obergärige Biere und ihre Herstellung" by Dr. Franz Schönfeld, 2nd edition, Verlag von Paul Parey, Berlin, 1938, page 134.

The type of yeast was responsible for the poor attenuation.I'm surprised to learn that they used cultures which were a mixture of top- and bottom-fermenting strains. Especially as the rules were different for beers brewed from the different types of yeast. Sugar and artificial sweeteners only being allowed in top-fermenting beers.

Despite barely fermenting the wort, these strains of yeast were still able to go through a healthy life-cycle.

Poor attenuation could be a useful feature:

"This behavior, which is of course tied to certain preconditions, places top-fermenting yeast in a drastic contrast to bottom-fermenting yeast, which is not able to suspend its fermentation activity even with attenuation that is nearly as low. From a practical point of view, this can be of great benefit insofar as it is possible when using such yeasts to produce beers, and in particular high-gravity beers, with a very low alcohol content, without the yeast being prevented from fermenting by means of artificial, sharp interventions."
"Obergärige Biere und ihre Herstellung" by Dr. Franz Schönfeld, 2nd edition, Verlag von Paul Parey, Berlin, 1938, page 135. 

Having looked at hundreds of analyses of 19th-century Lager, it's apparent that many bottom-fermenting strains weren't that attenuative. Few examples hit more than 70% apparent attenuation and there were plenty under 60%.

Malzbier between the wars (part two)

Time for more watery Malzbier fun with Schönfel. Though this time there are some of almost normal strength.

"In addition to them, there were a number of stronger beers, mostly with 7-9% and sometimes also with 10-12% E. gravity, which soon bore this, now that name, and to which the multiple wheat malt beers (beers made from barley and wheat malt), Hannoversch Broihan (also a wheat malt beer of 7-9% gravity flavored with cloves, cinnamon, anise, etc.), Werdersches Bier, the Braunbier of the Kretschmer breweries in Breslau, the beers produced in East and West Prussia, and many others. They were all poorly attenuatted and mostly deeply dark in color. Some agricultural areas were offered a so-called harvest beer in the summer, which was brewed strong and well-hopped.

Mostly made from pure barley malt, but often with the addition of sugar, which could account for up to 20% of the mash material, they were more or less characterized by a mild and malty-sweet taste."
"Obergärige Biere und ihre Herstellung" by Dr. Franz Schönfeld, 2nd edition, Verlag von Paul Parey, Berlin, 1938, page 133 - 134.

None of that sounds very Reinheitsgebot-compliant. I can't remember coming across Broyhan having so many spices added to it before. Though I know that spices were used to flavour beer. Even in Bavaria, where for a while coriander was allowed.

That's odd with the harvest beer. In the UK, beer intended for harvesters was weaker than standard beer, as it was intended to refresh rather than intoxicate.

"The fermentation took place either in vats or in barrels, from one-ton pieces up to casks of 6-7 tons.

The fermentation period was finished in 2-3 days at the usual temperature of 15-18 ° C.

For barrel fermentation, especially when using small barrels, slightly higher temperatures (20-22 ° C) were advantageously chosen, so that the yeast could be better discharged.

The barrels lying at an angle during the main fermentation were straightened after the yeast growth had ended and, with constant refilling and keeping it full up to the the bung, left to rest for 1-2 days for a short fermentation and 8-10 days for a longer fermentation."
"Obergärige Biere und ihre Herstellung" by Dr. Franz Schönfeld, 2nd edition, Verlag von Paul Parey, Berlin, 1938, page 134.

Barrel fermentation sound rather like a ponto: having the barrel at an angle tso excess yeast could be discharged and refilling with fresh wort.

Here are a few beers of these types:

Broyhan and Braunbier 1850 - 1890
Year	Brewer	Beer	Style	OG	FG	ABV	App. Atten-uation	pH
1884	Hannover, Städtisch	Einfacher Broyhan	Broyhan	1031.4	1022.5	1.03	27.67%	3.78
1884	Hannover, Städtisch	Doppelter Broyhan	Broyhan	1053.4	1043.6	1.20	17.55%	3.99
1850	Unknown, Halberstadt	Halberstädter Breyhan	Breyhan	1034.7	1012.7	2.84	62.59%	3.32
1850	Freundes	Braunbier	Braunbier	1056.9	1036.6	2.60	34.57%	3.56
1850	Unknown, Berlin	Werder'sches Braunbier	Braunbier	1030.4	1012.0	2.37	59.74%
1850	Unknown, Berlin	Berliner Braunbier	Braunbier	1058.1	1041.4	2.12	27.63%	3.52
1879	Remmer	Einfach Braunbier	Braunbier	1038.5	1016.4	2.85	57.40%
1879	Unknown, Bremen	Braunbier	Braunbier	1059.1	1010	6.42	83.08%
1879	Unknown, Bremen	Braunbier	Braunbier	1057.3	1014	5.63	75.57%
1879	Unknown, Bremen	Braunbier	Braunbier	1049.9	1022	3.59	55.91%
1879	Unknown, Bremen	Braunbier	Braunbier	1049.5	1012	4.87	75.76%
1879	Unknown, Bremen	Braunbier	Braunbier	1044.5	1012.5	4.15	71.91%
1879	Unknown, Bremen	Braunbier	Braunbier	1061.1	1012	6.41	80.36%
1890	Löwenbrauerei	Doppelbraunbier	Braunbier	1029.9	1015.5	1.85	48.24%	3.65
Sources:
Wahl & Henius, pages 823-830
“Archive der Pharmacie”, 1855, pages 216-217
Handwörterbuch der reinen und angewandten Chemie by Justus Liebig, Johann Christian Poggendorff, Friedrich Wöhler, 1858, page 1038
"Chemie der menschlichen Nahrungs- und Genussmittel" by Joseph König, 1889, pages 806 - 851
"Handbuch der chemischen technologie" by Otto Dammer, Rudolf Kaiser, 1896, pages 696-697

You'll see that some of the beers are stronger than Schönfeld writes. Five of the beers in the table have an OG of over 14º Balling. Some are also pretty sour.

Malzbier between the wars

More Schönfeld fun. This time actually getting into a few details of specific types of top-fermenting beers.Kicking off with weedy Einfachbier.

Starting out with the weakest of the lot: Einfachbier.

"A. Dark beers
a) The former Braunbiers; Malzbier
The group of Braunbiers includes all more or less deeply dark-coloured, mostly weakly hopped, low-attenuated beers, whether they are called Einfachbier, or Malzbier, or Weizenbier, or Broihan, or Werdersches Bier or something else.

The lightly brewed beers of 4-7% B were considered to be Einfachbier, they formed the main mass of the top-fermented beers overall."
"Obergärige Biere und ihre Herstellung" by Dr. Franz Schönfeld, 2nd edition, Verlag von Paul Parey, Berlin, 1938, page 133.

That' s a pretty weedy gravity: 1016º to 1028º. Couple that with a poor degree of attenuation, and you have a beer that's barely alcoholic. What's most surprising is how long this type of beer managed to cling on. I believe that there is still the odd one made.

Many of the old North German top-fermenting styles weren't fully fermented out in the brewery, but sold a couple of days in. Th intention being that fermentation would be completed by the customer. This is how Berliner Braunbier and Berliner Weisse was often sold.

"Some of them were sold as Frischbier, which customers collected in buckets and other containers from the brewery, but which was also transported in larger containers by the brewery wagons through town and country, so that it could be sold to the customers by the litre.

It was filled, either without or with the addition of water into bottles, from which it was ready to drink after 1 to 2 days.

This is still done in various ways today, except that the custom has declined to an extraordinary extent compared to the past."
"Obergärige Biere und ihre Herstellung" by Dr. Franz Schönfeld, 2nd edition, Verlag von Paul Parey, Berlin, 1938, page 133.

He says that the practice was dying out. I'm amazed that it had lasted this long.

But it wasn't always sold as Frischbier:

"In some cases they were served ready to drink on draught in taverns, which, however, required that they were fermented in the brewery and usually received an adequate addition of Kräusen. It was a common practice to drink them with a caraway liqueur.

For the production of these light beers, even today, later runnings are used that are also mixed with sugar, used often less to sweeten them than to add easily fermentable sugar to the low-sugar extract of the runnings in order to produce a better fermentation and a better yeast crop. Beers brewed from the lightest runnings were sold under the name “Kofent”."
"Obergärige Biere und ihre Herstellung" by Dr. Franz Schönfeld, 2nd edition, Verlag von Paul Parey, Berlin, 1938, page 133.

 It would make sense that draught versions would be fully fermented in the brewery and then given some life by the addition of Kräusen..

Kofent, which I've also seen spelt Kovent, was the German equivalent of Small Beer.

Top-fermenting relics of the 1930s

We're back with good old Schönfeld again.  In this particularly handy section, he runs through which beers had or hadn't made it past WW I.

It includes a couple of surprises.

"In the meantime (from 1900 onwards) a new type of beer in the form of sugar-sweetened and pasteurized Malzbier (Karamelbier) had appeared, giving top fermentation a considerable boost, which has also recently involved the top-fermented, light bitter Lagerbier which was already brewed in the Rhineland.

Otherwise, the old local beers are mostly forgotten. Even famous beers. Such as Danziger Jopenbier, Einbecker beer. The widely spread Porter. Münsterländer Altbier, of which only remnants of inferior quality remain.

A few have managed to survive into the present day, such as Broihan (Hannover)*, which is brewed using wheat malt and has a sweet taste; the dark and weakly sweet brown beer brewed in the Kretschmerei in Breslau, Hamburger "Beer", Lichtenhainer beer and Gose, the wheat malt beer of Bavaria, especially the Berliner Weissbier, and to a lesser extent the non-sour Weissbier of northern Germany. Grätzer beer has saved itself - as a miserable leftover. Rhenish top fermentation, however, has survived the times in improved condition.

* Brown beer with a schnapps (caraway) has been a well-known popular drink in Hamburg as in Hanover under the name "Lüttge Lage"."
"Obergärige Biere und ihre Herstellung" by Dr. Franz Schönfeld, 2nd edition, Verlag von Paul Parey, Berlin, 1938, page 132.

I'd assumed that Broyhan dies out a decade or two earlier. But, no, it was still limping on in the 1930s.

It's weird that he lists Porter in the lost beers. As there were still plenty of breweries making it in the 1930s. At least one in Berlin, where Schönfeld was based. Not sure which beers he means by non-sour wheat beers. Possibly things like Bremer Weissbier. About which I know bugger all, other than having seen the odd label.

Lüttge Lage is a weird survivor. It's a type of low ABV Altbier which is still produced in Hanover.

Schönfeld finishes this section with a quick look at top-fermentation elsewhere in Europe:

"In other countries too, top fermentation was pushed away more and more. However, there are still a number of breweries in Holland and France which produce light LAgerbier in a top-fermenting manner to a not inconsiderable extent. In Belgium, top fermentation still remains in the production of old sour beers.

A very special exception is England. Only top fermentation is known here. Hundreds of years ago, English beers had a well-founded reputation. They were all strong beers with great durability and characteristic taste and fragrance. They have  remained so to this day. Bottom fermentation was unable to gain a foothold. National characteristics and habits have allowed the old method of preparation to hold on."
"Obergärige Biere und ihre Herstellung" by Dr. Franz Schönfeld, 2nd edition, Verlag von Paul Parey, Berlin, 1938, pages 132 - 133.

 Of course, there was far more than sour brown beers being top-fermented in Belgium before WW II. And there was bottom-fermenting beer produced in the UK. Just not very much of it.

Why there was a comeback of top fermentation

We're back with our good mate Schönfeld again. This time explaining the sudden surge in top fermentation after 1916.

Put simply, it was all because of wartime shortages.

"The period of the increase was due to war regulations. The lack of raw materials increasingly forced gravities to be reduced. In order to save malt and barley, it had to be constantly stretched. With the reduction to 6%, there were no difficulties with bottom fermentation with regard to yeast propagation, maturation and fermentation. When, according to further regulations, beers with a wort content of more than 5% were not allowed to be produced and the breweries were forced under the constraints of the circumstances to lower the wort content to 4%, then to 3% and finally even further, bottom-fermenting yeast started to fail. It hardly supplied the required amount of spores for its own business, sat down hastily without having gotten into sufficient fermentation and lay loosely on the ground."
"Obergärige Biere und ihre Herstellung" by Dr. Franz Schönfeld, 2nd edition, Verlag von Paul Parey, Berlin, 1938, page 131.

I'm not surprised that bottom fermenting yeast struggled in such watery worts. One solution I've also seen practised in the UK during WW I.

"Although it was possible for various companies to obtain the required amount of yeast by growing them in stronger worts, this option was not open to others.
Under these conditions, top-fermenting yeast could now be adopted to do emergency work. It could tolerate the poor nutritional conditions in thin worts, had the ability to reproduce so abundantly that not only was enough yeast harvested to continue, but that there was even enough that it could be sold to other firms. It also matured and did not easily degenerate.

So breweries often turned to top fermentation; also because, when using top fermentation, they were able to meet the increasing demand for beer to an increased extent by using sugar and sweeteners.

As long as restrictions were imposed on the use of raw materials by law, top fermentation remained at a high level.

When the restrictions on the use of barley and malt were relaxed and breweries were able to brew stronger beers, they turned away from top fermentation and returned to bottom fermentation for the production of lager beers. Top fermentation had done its duty. It could be switched off again."
"Obergärige Biere und ihre Herstellung" by Dr. Franz Schönfeld, 2nd edition, Verlag von Paul Parey, Berlin, 1938, page 132.

I've seen UK brewing records where ther's the odd much stronger version brewed, which is then blended with weaker beers post-fermentation. The point being to get healthy yeast to be pitched into later brews. And that was when worts were in the 1020ºs, considerably higher than the 3º Plato (1012º) they had been forced down to in Germany.

Weirdly, the Reinheitsgebot seems to have remained in force for most of WW I. By top-fermenting, a wider range of ingredients was allowed. Including sugar and artificial sweeteners.

But it was all only temporary. As soon as brewers could produce decent-strength beer again, they returned to bottom fermentation.

The decline of top-fermenting beer in Germany (part two)

More form Schönfeld on the decline of top-fermenting beer.

Another problem was that sales were very seasonal, only being really popular during hot weather.

"Furthermore, these beers are more summer than winter beers. In times of low heat, demand drops sharply. The lack of kick does not invite you to drink. The hot season is short when there is a demand for these beers, which are highly thirst-quenching and refreshing due to their high CO2 content. When this time is over, demand ceases and often enough to such an extent that the beers get older and older, their properties deteriorate significantly, they change, become acidic, also assume bad smell and become unsaleable.

Annoyance and loss are great and again reason enough for the innkeeper to wash his hands of these beers more and more. The guest is even more annoyed when he is presented with an old beer that he only drinks with self-restraint or refuses at all."
"Obergärige Biere und ihre Herstellung" by Dr. Franz Schönfeld, 2nd edition, Verlag von Paul Parey, Berlin, 1938, page 131.

Being fairly low in alcohol and lightly hopped, many of the old top-fermenting styles need to be consumed quickly. One exception to this was Berliner Weisse. Being already pretty damn sour, it wasn't going to spoil in that way. And it's surprisingly robust for such a weak beer. Bottles keep surfacing which are decades old, but still drinkable.

"So, one circumstance after another, conspired to gradually push these light beers out of trade and traffic, whereby more a change in taste associated with a more demanding lifestyle and the inferiority in quality compared to bottom-fermented beer had more decisive importance for the decline than the awkward method of serving that is annoying to the landlord and prevents brisk service.

However, the greater spoilage to which the light beers are exposed was of particular importance for the decline that followed in rapid succession.

The decline was not without interruption. Beginning in 1916, a period of ascent began, which peaked in 1919. The share of top-fermenting beer in total sales rose to 37%, whereupon the setback set in again, and now proceeded more unstoppably."
"Obergärige Biere und ihre Herstellung" by Dr. Franz Schönfeld, 2nd edition, Verlag von Paul Parey, Berlin, 1938, page 131.

It looks as if much of the decline was initiated by publicans. Who found the old styles awkward to serve and too likely to spoil.

Next time we'll see the reason for the sudden upturn in top-fermenting in 1916.

The decline of top-fermenting beer in Germany

We're back with Schönfeld, this time looking at the decline in top fermentation in the 19th century. Though, as we'll see in a minute, the real situation was more nuanced than he makes out.

"d) Development since the beginning of the 19th century
Like the number of local beers, the number of top-fermenting breweries, and the turnover of the breweries of top-fermented beers, decreased. A look at the statistics shows the extent to which conditions in Germany have changed over the past 100 years.

100 years ago, with only a few exceptions, there were only top-fermenting breweries in northern Germany. In Bohemia, too, the top-fermented method of preparation prevailed until the middle of the last century. Only in Bavaria were there bottom-fermenting ones in large numbers. Here, as in Baden and Württemberg, top fermentation soon gave way the bottom fermentation, and only a few businesses remained that brewed in the top fermentation way. What they brewed was wheat beer, which is still enjoyed in some places as a light, clear, carbonated, non-acidic beer."

Top fermentation lasted longer in northern Germany, but had to recede more and more with time before bottom fermentation. In 1873, top-fermenting beers accounted for 40% of total beer production. In 1900 only 17%, and now the proportion of top-fermenting beers is no more than 4%.

All top-fermenting beers that were brewed until around 1900 took shared in the decline."
"Obergärige Biere und ihre Herstellung" by Dr. Franz Schönfeld, 2nd edition, Verlag von Paul Parey, Berlin, 1938, page 130.

This table shows a slightly different story. Though, unfortunately, it only covers a period of 20 years. Between 1882 and 1901, the quantity of top-fermenting beer being produced remained fairly constant. But that meant a proportional decline as overall beer production was increasing rapidly.

Beer production in the Brausteuergebied
	top fermenting		bottom fermenting
Year	hl	%	hl	%
1882	7,901,207	36	14,211,973	64
1887	8,503,919	31	18,971,927	69
1892	7,664,889	23	25,498,919	77
1897	7,777,049	19	33,654,123	81
1898	7,566,770	18	34,698,630	82
1899	7,280,851	17	35,925,271	83
1900	7,428,980	17	37,300,826	83
1901	7,322,999	16	37,712,996	84
Source:
Jahresbericht über die Leistungen der chemischen Technologie, 1903 page 446.

Certain top-fermenting beers cannot be served on draught, for example, Berliner Weisse, Grätzer, Gose. The serving of bottled beer in the taverns, however, does not allow for quick service - and often enough there are cases in which the quickestk service is required - because beer containing yeast must be carefully poured into the glass. It takes time. Far too much in busy periods. Reason enough for landlords to move away from such a beer more and more. Customers had no desire for such a beer, the serving of which put their patience to the test."
"Obergärige Biere und ihre Herstellung" by Dr. Franz Schönfeld, 2nd edition, Verlag von Paul Parey, Berlin, 1938, page 130. 

Odd now to thank that Gose, which is on tap from Sydney too Vancouver, for most of its life was exclusively sold in bottled form. His main point - that bottled beer takes much longer to serve - is true. If the server is pouring it into the glass. If they just whip open the bottle and hand it over, it's just as quick as serving a draught. Personally, I always prefer to pour a bottle-conditioned beer myself. After all my years drinking St. Bernardus, I can pour better than most bar staff.

German Top-Fermentation Breweries

Here's something else I can't claim the credit for finding. Now I just have to remember who passed it on to me. I never thought I'd be complaining about having too much material, but that's exactly what's happened. I sometimes feel I'm going down for the third time in an ocean of data.

German top-fermenting beer. One of my many things. And I couldn't ignore this artiucle as it comes from thge master himself, Schönfeld. Probably my favourite German author after Erich Maria Remarque and Klaus Mann.

"German Top-Fermentation Breweries.*
The author undertook a journey last autumn with the object of obtaining information and samples, and I now gives the result of his labours.

The brewing of top-fermentation beer is chiefly confined to North and Central Germany, but even there in most cases only holds a secondary position, less care beimg bestowed on its preparation than on that of the loW fermentation varieties.

Usually three kinds of top-fermentation beer are brewed: white beer, bitter, and single or brown beer. The mashing process varies considerably, being in some cases by infusion alone, in others by decoction, and in and in others again a combination of both systems is pursued. Initial heats vary from about 30°—45º R. (100º—133º F), saccharification temperatures between 50° and 56º R. (144º—158º F.), and the whole process occupies some seven or eight hours. The differential treatment for the production of the various kinds of beers mentioned begins after the mashing is completed with the exception that colouring matter when used is added previous to boiling. The beers are mostly weak, 12 per cent, being an unusual strength, the worts averaging 6—8 per cent, of extract, some sinking as low as 3 per cent. White beer is, on the whole, the richest in extract, with 8—10 per cent., although some of the bitter beers are brewed with 10 to 12 per cent.

The worts after staying a short time in the cooler are ready for pitching, but there does not appear to be usually any great anxiety to maintain regularity in this respect. Where more care is exercised 16º—18° R (68º—72.5° F.), or a couple of degrees higher in winter, is about the figure, none going below 12° R. (59° F.) and only one as high as 22° R. (81º F.).

The yeast is first mixed with a few litres of wort and when fermentation commences is added to the bulk. In some instances low-fermentation yeasts are employed to give a milder and more pleasant flavour to the beer, but the same conditions of fermentation and storage are maintained. No exact distinction between primary and secondary fermentation  is maintained, the former being considered terminated when the surface of the beeer remains clear and quiet after removal of the yeast, a stage generally reached in 5 to 6 days. The head first thrown up is chiefly a scum of resins, &c., and is usually thrown away. On removal to the storage cask the secondary fermention continues without a break and a copious head is now expelled through the bung hole, whence it runs down into a receptacle on the floor, these runnings being used to fill up the fermenting-tun. After some forty-eight hours the fermentation slackens, the head then remaining compact without overflowing, and so continues for a further 4 - 6 days at a temperature of about 10 - 15º R. (54.5º - 66º F) by which time the final attenuation will have been reached. The beer is then either left to ripen in the storage cask or is mixed with fresh beer (from low-fermentation "kraüsen" beer) and sent out in barrels to the retailer, who either leaves it to ripen or bottles it (often adding water), no attempt at clarification being made in the brewery ; indeed, beer is often sent out directly after the primary fermentation is over.

The yeast employed in pitching is seldom of pure culture ; generally the head skimmed from one tun is used for a fresh batch without washing, and sometimes both head and sediment are mixed up for use. Notwithstanding this method of procedure the beer is expected to be brilliant and stable, with a firm sedimental yeast in bottle so in many instances the adoption of pure cultures would be highly desirable. It is somewhat remarkable in view of the great risk of infection from the methods of manipulation employed in the majority of cases examined that streak cultures of the yeasts and samples of beer exhibited a very low proportion of wild yeasts, a circumstance probably due to the high fermenting temperatures. Bacteria, particularly lactic, and acetic-acid ferments, were rather more prevalent, and as their presence is undesirable except in the case of Berlin "Weissbier," it is evident that a greater amount of care and cleanliness would be benficial."

* F Schönfeld in the "Woch. f. Brau.," No. 24.
"The Country Brewer", November 21st, 1895, page 778.

I'll translate those three beer types back into German to make it more obvious what they are: Weissbier, Bitterbier and Braunbier. Weissbier means stuff like Berliner Weisse, Broyhan (still just about clinging on at this point), Lichtenhainer and similar. Braunbier or Einfachbier was low-gravity, coloured brown and sometimes sweetened, though I'm not sure if that was the case in the 1890's. Bitterbier I think is the precursor of Kölsch and Alt. I've also seen it called Rheinisch Bitterbier.

We've seen plenty of times before that the old top-fermenting styles - with a couple of exceptions - weren't very alcoholic. By extract they mean the gravity in degrees Balling. 6º to 8º Balling is approximately 1024º to 1032º. But because these types of beer often had pathetically low attenuation, the ABV would have been under 2% in many cases. From other sources, it does seem that Bitterbier was usually brewed at Vollbier gravity, that is 11 to 12º Balling.

I was slightly surprised that decoction mashing was sometimes used. I've always had the impressiuon that  most of the top-fermenting breweries were pretty small and had basic equipment. Which would make decoction a bit tricky.

If those are pitching temperatures, they're very high. British breweries pitched at 57º to 64º F, depending on the gravity of the wort. I can't say that the yeast handling sounds very professional. Sounds like it was asking for an infection. 5 to 6 days primary sopunds very look consiudering the low gravity of the wort and the high fermentation temperature. The secondary fermentation sounds very much like cleansing in pontos. Except that the expelled beer was returned to a fermenting vessel rather than the cask.

I've read in otehr places about beer being sent out at the end of primary fermentation. Berliner Weisse, Berliner Braunbier and Gose were all handled this way. And I know that Berliner Weiss was often watered at bottling time. SOmething I'm pretty sure would have beem illegal in Britain. Was kräusening top-fermenting beer with bottom-fermenting beer allowed in the Reinheitsgebot? Given the rules for top- and bottom-fermenting beer were different, it wouldn'y shock me if you hadn't been allowed to mix them.

I don't think it was just Berliner Weisse where the presence of acidifying bacteria didn't matter: it wasn't the only sour style.

For once, there's no more to come. That's it.