Mackeson - the details

What was I thinking? Posting about Mackeson but forgetting to include any tables. Lovely tables of numbers, still piping hot from the oven.

Can you remember the gist of my last Mackeson post? No. OK, I'll repeat it. The lactose additions don't feature at all in the brewing records. So the OG in the logs doesn't match that found by analysis of the finished beer.

Here's what the Gravity Books, Whitbread and Truman have to say:

Mackeson 1933 -1966
Year	Beer	Price	size	package	Acidity	FG	OG	Colour	ABV	atten-uation
1933	Mackeson Stout	9d	pint	bottled			1052.2
1933	Mackeson Stout	8d	pint	bottled			1053.7
1938	Mackeson Stout	10d	pint	bottled			1057.7
1943	Mackeson Milk Stout		pint	bottled	0.04	1020.7	1045.7	! + 28	3.22	54.70%
1947	Mackeson Milk Stout	1/6d	pint	bottled	0.06	1017.4	1040.3	1 + 14	2.95	56.82%
1951	Mackeson Stout	1/3.5d	half pint	bottled			1047.2
1954	Mackeson Stout	1/3.5d	half pint	bottled	0.04	1019.5	1046.6	1 + 20	3.49	58.15%
1957	Mackeson Stout	1/4d	half pint	bottled	0.06	1015.9	1046.3	250	3.93	65.66%
1959	Mackeson Stout (Chiswell Street gyle 248)	1/4d	half pint	bottled		1020.8	1046.2	250	3.27	54.98%
1959	Mackeson Stout (Stockport gyle 289)	1/4d	half pint	bottled		1019.7	1046.7	275	3.48	57.82%
1959	Mackeson Stout (Kirkstall gyle 117)	1/4d	half pint	bottled		1020.4	1046.5	350	3.36	56.13%
1959	Mackeson Stout (Hythe gyle 168)	1/4d	half pint	bottled		1017.8	1046	400	3.64	61.30%
1960	Mackeson Stout	1/4d	half pint	bottled		1019	1045	250	3.35	57.78%
1960	Mackeson Stout	1/4d	half pint	bottled	0.05	1019.2	1046.4	300	3.51	58.62%
1961	Mackeson Stout	1/4d	half pint	bottled		1019	1046	250	3.48	58.70%
1963	Mackeson Stout	1/5.5d	half pint	bottled		1019	1045	250	3.35	57.78%
1966	Mackeson	1/7.5d	half pint	bottled			1044
Sources: Truman Gravity Book Whitbread Gravity Book

This is what the brewing records say:

Mackeson Stout 1936 - 1963
Date	Year	Beer	OG	FG	ABV	App. Attenu-ation	lbs hops/ qtr	hops lb/brl	barrels	lbs hops	qtrs malt	boil time (hours)	boil time (hours)	Pitch temp	colour
26th Oct	1936	Mackeson Stout	1051.1	1017.0	4.51	66.73%	6.95	1.47	639	938	135	1.33	1.25	62º	18.5 brown 1 red
31st May	1937	Mackeson Stout	1051.4	1016.5	4.62	67.90%	6.95	1.48	317	469	67.5	1.25	1.00	62º	18.5 brown 1 red
1st Jun	1937	Mackeson Stout	1051.3	1016.0	4.67	68.81%	6.94	1.45	255	938	135.25	1.25	1.00	62º	17.5 brown 1 red
7th Jun	1937	Mackeson Stout	1050.8	1016.5	4.54	67.52%	6.94	1.45	647	941	135.5	1.25	1.50	62º	19 brown 1 red
19th Apr	1938	Mackeson Stout	1051.7	1016.5	4.66	68.09%	6.94	1.50	621	930	134	1.25	1.42	62º	19 brown 1 red
20th Apr	1938	Mackeson Stout	1051.5	1016.0	4.70	68.93%	6.94	1.46	105	930	134	1.25	1.08	62º	17 brown 1 red
9th Aug	1939	Mackeson Stout	1051.0	1015.5	4.70	69.61%	6.94	1.41	290	930	134	1.25	1.42	62º	19 brown 1 red
10th Aug	1939	Mackeson Stout	1051.2	1017.5	4.46	65.82%	6.89	1.43	380	937	136	1.25	1.42	62º	19 brown 1 red
14th Aug	1939	Mackeson Stout	1050.9	1015.5	4.68	69.55%	6.93	1.44	325	468	67.5	1.25	1.25	62º	20 brown 1 red
10th Oct	1939	Mackeson Stout	1050.9	1017.0	4.48	66.60%	7.40	1.59	469	984	133	1.25	1.50	62º	17 brown 1 red
22nd Aug	1939	Mackeson Stout	1051.8	1017.5	4.54	66.22%	7.40	1.59	469	984	133	1.25	1.50	62º	18 brown 1 red
10th Jan	1939	Mackeson Stout	1051.1	1017.0	4.51	66.73%	6.94	1.47	320	930	134	1.25	1.08	62º	18 brown 1 red
16th Jan	1939	Mackeson Stout	1051.7	1016.0	4.72	69.05%	6.94	1.50	621	930	134	1.25	1.08	62º	18 brown 1 red
23rd Nov	1939	Mackeson Stout	1051.4	1015.0	4.82	70.82%	6.89	1.46	90	937	136	1.25	1.42	62º	17 brown 1 red
27th Nov	1939	Mackeson Stout	1051.1	1016.5	4.58	67.71%	6.94	1.46	636	930	134	1.25	1.50	62º	17 brown 1 red
1st Apr	1940	Mackeson Stout	1051.5	1013.5	5.03	73.79%	6.93	1.50	611	915	132	1.25	1.50	62º	17.5 brown 1 red
3rd Apr	1940	Mackeson Stout	1051.6	1017.5	4.51	66.09%	6.93	1.50	608	915	132	1.25	1.17	62º	18.5 brown 1 red
9th Sep	1940	Mackeson Stout	1051.3	1016.0	4.67	68.81%	6.90	1.50	310	873	126.5	1.42	7:40 pm to 6:15 am	62º	19 brown 1 red
28th Sep	1940	Mackeson Stout	1051.1	1018.0	4.38	64.77%	6.92	1.49	603	896	129.5	1.25	1.5	62º	17 brown 1 red
6th Mar	1941	Mackeson Stout	1049.5	1016.5	4.37	66.67%	6.46	1.38	607	836	129.5	1.25	1.42	62º	18.5 brown 1 red
8th May	1941	Mackeson Stout	1047.5	1015.0	4.30	68.42%	5.90	1.18	647	764	129.5	1.25	1	62º	17 brown 1 red
27th Sep	1941	Mackeson Stout	1045.7	1014.0	4.19	69.37%	5.17	0.99	1361	1344	260	1.25	1	62º	15 brown 1 red
16th Oct	1941	Mackeson Stout	1046.1	1013.5	4.31	70.72%	5.17	1.02	1320	1344	260	1.25	1	62º	16 brown 1 red
6th Aug	1942	Mackeson Stout	1042.3	1014.5	3.68	65.72%	6.64	1.21	70	860	129.5	1	1.25	62º	18 brown 1 red
7th Aug	1942	Mackeson Stout	1041.5	1015.0	3.51	63.86%	5.10	0.93	712	660	129.5	1	1.25	62º	19 brown 1 red
28th Feb	1942	Mackeson Stout	1043.1	1013.0	3.98	69.84%	5.34	1.03	682	700	131	1	0.75	62º	14 brown 1 red
11th Sep	1942	Mackeson Stout	1042.0	1013.5	3.77	67.86%	5.14	0.92	716	660	128.5	1	0.75	62º	18 brown 1 red
9th Dec	1942	Mackeson Stout	1042.2	1016.0	3.47	62.09%	5.00	0.93	713	660	132	1	0.75	64º	17 brown 1 red
4th Feb	1943	Mackeson Stout	1042.5	1014.0	3.77	67.06%	5.00	0.93	712	660	132	1	1.25	64º	19 brown 1 red
26th May	1943	Mackeson Stout	1042.2	1014.0	3.73	66.82%	4.81	0.93	707	660	137.14	1	1	64º	17 brown 1 red
27th May	1943	Mackeson Stout	1042.3	1015.0	3.61	64.54%	6.29	1.16	80	860	136.7	1	0.75	64º	16.5 brown 1 red
28th May	1943	Mackeson Stout	1041.9	1014.5	3.62	65.39%	4.82	0.88	751	660	136.99	1	0.75	64º	17 brown 1 red
21st Jan	1943	Mackeson Stout	1042.6	1012.5	3.98	70.66%	5.00	0.93	706	660	132	1	0.75	64º	17 brown 1 red
14th Dec	1944	Mackeson Stout	1042.7	1011.0	4.19	74.24%	6.48	1.17	374	836	129	1	0.75	64º	14 brown 1 red
22nd Sep	1944	Mackeson Stout	1042.8	1014.0	3.81	67.29%	6.55	1.23	268	836	127.69	1	0.75	64º	15 brown 1 red
1st Jan	1945	Mackeson Stout	1042.5	1013.5	3.84	68.24%	4.87	0.87	723	630	129.32	1	1	64º	14 brown 1 red
29th Jan	1952	Mackeson Stout	1042.3	1010.0	4.27	76.36%	6.84	1.17	734	858	125.5	1	0.75	64º	13 brown 1 red
30th Jan	1952	Mackeson Stout	1042.5	1010.5	4.23	75.29%	6.84	1.19	404	858	125.5	1	0.75	64º	15 brown 1 red
7th Jul	1958	Mackeson Stout	1042.6	1013.0	3.92	69.48%	5.68	1.00	714	714	125.75	1	0.75	64º	250
10th Jul	1958	Mackeson Stout	1042.8	1013.0	3.94	69.63%	5.68	0.98	433	714	125.75	1	0.75	64º	275
13th Aug	1962	Mackeson Stout	1041.2	1013.8	3.62	66.50%	5.77	0.97	734	714	123.75	1	0.75	64º	250
24th Aug	1962	Mackeson Stout	1041.3				5.77	1.00	713	714	123.75	1	1	64º	250
22nd Aug	1962	Mackeson Stout	1041.0	1013.6	3.62	66.83%	5.77	0.97	251	714	123.75	1	1	64º	250
27th Sep	1962	Mackeson Stout	1041.6	1012.8	3.81	69.23%	5.91	1.00	1441	1440	243.75	1	1	64º	250
11th Feb	1963	Mackeson Stout	1041.3	1011.3	3.97	72.64%	5.93	1.03	699	720	121.5	1	1	64º	250
28th Aug	1963	Mackeson Stout	1042.7	1012.0	4.06	71.90%	5.58	0.96	578	678	121.5	1	0.75	64º	250
Source: Whitbread brewing records

I hope you enjoyed that as much as I did. No, more than I did. To be honest, it wasn't the most fascinating five minutes of my life. Not even the most fascinating of the last 10 minutes.

Truman Porter and Stout output 1835-1836

I have some funny fascinations. I won't go into them all now. Just the one: how much of each type of beer did brewers make in the 19th century.

The story, mostly it seems based on a single source, that around the middle of the 19th century Porter began to loosen its grip on the throat of London drinkers. Aged Porter went out of fashion and only Mild Porter remained. Mild Ale was the new rage. How true is this tale? Good question.

London brewers were a meticulous bunch. They kept all sorts of records. The brewing logs are just the tip of the iceberg. Information about how much Running and Keeping Porter were brewed is there. If you can be arsed to dig it out. Which, if I'm being honest, I haven't been so far.

Whitbread kept track of the brews of each type inside the front cover. Combine this with the details of the size of each brew at the back of the log and you can calculate exactly how much Keeping and Running was made. Except it does require a bit of work.

Much simpler are some of the Truman's logs. Where they've done all the addition for you. Which is a very long-winded way of introducing today's table. Truman Porter output by type for the brewing season 1835-1836. I hope you enjoy reading it as much as I did compiling it:

Truman Porter and Stout 1835-36
	barrels	%
Runner	148,387	60.71%
Running Stout	25,624	10.48%
Keeping Stout	13,646	5.58%
Double Stout	3,532	1.45%
Imperial Stout	468	0.19%
Export Stout	2,019	0.83%
Keeping Beer	48,514	19.85%
Export Keeping	2,217	0.91%
total	244,407
Source: Truman brewing records

Running or Mild Porter was the biggest seller by quite a way. Outselling Keeping Porter by about three to one. Running Stout was the third best seller, with only about half as much Keeping Stout brewed. In case you're wondering, Truman's production of Ale (of all types) in the same period was 49,000 barrels.

What does this tell us? That even in the first half of the 19th century Mild Porter was more popular than Stale by a considerable margin.

When I can be arsed to pull together all the Whitbread numbers, I should be able to draw a neat little graph highlighting the decline of Keeping Porter. But who knows when that will be.

Four beer styles

One series of mega books. Yes, my often-announced, not very well defined Mega Book Series is finally hitting the shops. (If you count an online self-publishing site as a shop.)

I've thrown around a few titles in the last months. But not this one. Volume I of the Mega Book Series, which will cover all four British beer styles. (Unless Martyn Cornell can persuade me there are only three.) What else could I begin the series with, other than Britain's most noble and venerable style: Porter!.

620 pages of non-stop fun. That's two Jeffrey Archer novels. Or Porter!, the longest book ever written about Britain's oldest style. In detail that will send even the most seasoned archivist into a coma, I explore the beer that made London famous. For beer. Table after table after table. Poor jokes, a bit of pretension, quite a few typos and the old insult thrown at style nazis.

And recipes. More than 100. I lost count. Stacks of the bloody things. From 1804 to 1962. All but a handful, I haven't published before.

It's a doorstep of a book. You could always use it to knock a burglar unconscious. And what better present for a loved one? Perhaps for that special woman in your life*.

Buy "Porter!" now. You won't regret it. Well, perhaps not immediately. When the credit card bill arrives.



Buy "Porter!" now.



Buy "Porter!" now.


Shouting. What better way to sell?





* I assume the vast majority of my readers are male. I apologise to any female readers. And homosexuals. I should have just added man to that sentence, shouldn't I?

4

German IPA update

Remember my post about 19th-century German IPA? It was abased on an analysis that didn't name the brewery.

Barm had me doubting as to whether the IPA was really a German-brewed beer. He pointed out, reasonably enough, that it could have been a British beer that had been imported. He's now found evidence that there was IPA brewed in Bremen.

While it was never quite on the same scale, or of the same duration, as Porter brewing, I did know that Pale Ale was made on the Continent. Even Heineken once brewed a Pale Ale.

Funny, isn't it, how European Porter brewing is reasonably well known, but the export of Porter to India isn't. While with Pale Ale it's the exact opposite.

Erste Norddeutsche Actien Ale und Porter Brauerei, Hemlingen, Bremen. That's who the brewery was.

Mackeson

I was bizarrely delighted to find records for Mackeson in the Whitbread archive. It's a beer with an odd fascination.

Mackeson has an unusual history. A small smoulder between the wars, which leapt briefly into flame during the 1950's, before being almost extinguished in the 1970's. A beer that became about as unfashionable as it humanly possible. A drink for grannies and grumpy old gits.

On the face of it, Mackeson's popularity is baffling. How could a beer combining strong roast, sweetness and minimal amounts of alcohol ever have been one of the biggest sellers in Britain?

Milk Stout. A funny concept, as a style. It experienced a fleeting popularity, riding the last wave of Porter until it petered out on the beach.

Why have a brought this up now? Obvious really. I've been poking around in the archives again. Mackeson presents a particular problem for forensic beerologists like myself. It's all to do with the lactose. And how Whitbread brewed.

I was a bit surprised, to say the least, to discover that Mackeson had been party-gyled with with Whitbread Extra Stout. How would that work? Surely they wouldn't put lactose in Extra Stout? They didn't. Because the lactose wasn't added in the kettle. Or even in the fermenter. It was used as a priming. It isn't mentioned at all in the logs.

It would be dead frustrating, if not for one fact. The Whitbread Gravity Book has plenty of analyses of Mackeson. Analyses performed in the bottling stores. So I can see the beer as bottled. Between 5 and 7 of the gravity points came from the lactose primings. At least the version as bottled had an OG and FG 5 to 7 points higher than it was as brewed.