Tuesday, 4 December 2012

William Murray's beers in the 1930's

Time for part two of my series on William Murray's beers. Now we've moved on to the 1930's. Hard times for many British breweries.

Let's dive straight into the analysis pool. The first entry in the table is good news for my hammering points not just in but right out the other side tactic. It's a great example of a typical interwar bottled IPA. Remember these points: low-gravity IPAs have been around for a long time; this type of IPA was the norm in the 20th century, Bass and Worthington aside, stronger IPAs just didn't exist; 1036º is about the correct gravity, or maybe even a bit too high (X Ale had fallen from 1070º to 1036º between the 1830's and the 1930's, you'd expect IPA, which started at 1060-1065º to be about 1034º).

There's just one lonely Mild again. Looking much like an English Mild or even a modern one. That colour is about 60-70 EBC.

It looks to me as if there are two basic Pale Ales there. One around 1034º, the other 1040º. This is where I'm glad that I got to the Scottish Brewing Archive again. And that I for once shed my lazy arse and went through all the Maclays records I snapped. Because I have the details of their range of Pale Ales in the 1930's. Their range of IPA's I should say, because that's what their brewhouse names were in 1938. IPA 5d, IPA 6d and IPA 7d. Not for much longer, mind. They magically changed into Pale Ales the next year. Brilliant. There's another of those nails right through the floorboard points: the random way brewers used the terms Pale Ale and IPA.

Here they are:


Maclay's IPAs in 1938
Beer OG FG ABV App. Atten-uation lbs hops/ qtr hops lb/brl
IPA 7d 1042 1015 3.57 64.29% 5.00 0.95
IPA 6d 1038 1015 3.04 60.53% 5.00 0.86
IPA 5d 1032 1014 2.38 56.25% 5.00 0.70
Source:
Maclay brewing record document M/6/1/1/3 held at the Scottish Brewing Archive

Murray's Pale Ales look to me like IPA 5d and IPA 6d.

I'm happy to see the Milk Stouts. As I said in the last part, Murray was famous for its Milk Stout. That's why I've so many label images for it. One of the other points I like to frantically beat with a hammer, is that Milk Stout wasn't necessarily weak. Some were, like Murray's. I've seen pre-war ones with gravities in the 1055-1060º range. Murray's do at least have the low attenuation I would expect.

Hang on. I've had a look at those Pale Ales more closely. One thing you need to know about interwar British beer is the great gravity shift of 1931. When the tax went up and brewers dropped the gravity of the beers so that their retail price stayed the same. It's what drove Mild down under 1040º. Bearing that in mind, my guess is that the first five Pale Ales in the table are the same beer. 1038º before 1931, 1034º after.

Now I think about it, the last three could be the same beer, too. They're after the tax dropped back down to the same level. Might not be, though. When the tax fell again, some brewers, rather than putting the beer back up to its old gravity, they knocked a penny a pint off the price.

Another hammer point: the Scottish love of currency units in beer names and their inconsistent and confusing use of them. So that 60/- isn't the same thing as a modern 60/-. And random, because there's no way a 54-gallon hogshead of those beers cost 60/- in 1938. Whitbread LA, a low-gravity Mild of 1028.5º, cost 76/- for a 36-gallon barrel*.

Moving on to the Strong Ale, called No. 3 like one of William Younger's. Which just happens to have the same gravity as Younger's version, 1055º**. The colour is dark, just like the No. 3 I remember well. I assume Murray's No. 3 must have been its direct competitor.

Wow. I can't believe I could write so much about a dozen beer analyses. Don't worry. I'm not worded out yet. There's one more instalment to follow.

William Murray beers in the 1930's
Year Beer Style Price size package FG OG colour ABV App. Atten-uation
1933 India Pale Ale IPA pint bottled 1010 1036 3.37 72.22%
1939 Light Ale Mild 6d pint draught 1008.7 1035.8 40 + 0.5 3.52 75.70%
1930 Pale Ale Pale Ale pint draught 1011 1038 37 3.50 71.05%
1930 Pale Ale Pale Ale pint bottled 1009 1038 39 3.76 76.32%
1932 Pale Ale Pale Ale pint bottled 1009 1034 3.24 73.53%
1933 4d Pale Ale Pale Ale pint bottled 1009.5 1032.5 2.98 70.77%
1933 Queen Brand Pale Ale pint bottled 1010.5 1034 3.04 69.12%
1934 Pale Ale Pale Ale pint draught 1012 1040 3.63 70.00%
1937 60/- Pale Ale Pale Ale pint bottled 1008.8 1039.8 11 – 12 4.03 77.89%
1939 60/- Ale Pale Ale pint bottled 1011 1039 12 – 13 3.63 71.79%
1933 Milk Stout Stout pint bottled 1018 1036 2.31 50.00%
1937 Milk Stout Stout 6d pint bottled 1019.2 1044.8 3.30 57.14%
1939 Strong Ale No.3 Strong Ale 10d pint draught 1009 1054.9 40 + 10 6.00 83.61%
Sources:
Whitbread Gravity book held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document number LMA/4453/D/02/001
Thomas Usher Gravity Book document TU/6/11 held at the Scottish Brewing Archive
Younger, Wm. & Co Gravity Book document WY/6/1/1/19 held at the Scottish Brewing Archive


* Whitbread price list pasted into a brewing book held at the London Metropolitan Archives document number LMA/4453/D/09/124.

** William Younger brewing record held at the Scottish Brewing Archive document number WY/6/1/2/70.

Monday, 3 December 2012

X Ales in the 1880's

Once I get started, it can be difficult to stop. That's my excuse for continuing with this series looking at X Ales in detail. Far too much detail, really.

We're now in the 1880's, a key period in the development of British beer, when brewers had been unshackled by the 1880 Free Mash Tun Act. Suddenly a whole range of new ingredients were allowed. I'd been hoping/expecting to find maize and rice and other shit like that. I didn't. But more about that in the next part about the grists. Here I'm limiting myself to looking at the beer specifications.

This lot are quite tricky to make sense out of. With gravities all over the shop. Different examples of Barclay Perkins X ranged from 1055º to 1064º. Not sure what that was about. Truman seem to have brewed their X Ale to two slightly different strengths, 1053º and 1059º. The two in the table were parti-gyled together. It's very confusing. Possibly they could be London and Country versions. The "L" in Whitbread's XL almost certainly stands for London.

What is clear, is the disappearance of most of the stronger London X Ales. There are only a couple of XX Ales in the table. The stronger ones - XXX and XXXX Ale - had completely disappeared. The strongest London Mild is Barclay Perkins XX Ale at 1078º. If you can remember back that far, you'll recall that in my table for the 1860's there was a Mild over 1090º. In the 1830's table there were many Milds over 1100º. Stronger Milds continued to disappear right up until WW I, by which time London brewers generally only brewed X Ale.

It's intriguing that outside London breweries continued to brew a range of different-strength Milds. At the same time, it's worth noting that the third Mild up from Tetley and William Younger were only about the same level as The X Ales of Barclay Perkins and Whitbread.

I can't see any pattern in the rate of attenuation. Both the London and provincial examples mostly fall in the range 65% to 75%.

As the sample contains beers with very different gravities, the fairest way to compare hopping rates is to look at pounds per quarter of malt. Ignoring the outliers in each set (Barclay's XX and Tetley's X3), the London beers have between 6.5 and 9 pounds, the provincial ones 4.25 to 9 pounds. The averages are 7.61 for London and 6.44 for the provinces. I think it's fair enough to say that London X Ales were a little more heavily hopped than their provincial cousins.

I love looking at boil times. If only to demonstrate what bollocks all that shit is about Scottish brewers boiling their first runnings down to syrup. Note that the two Scottish brewers, William Younger and Thomas Usher, did not have the longest boils. In fact only Fullers boiled for a shorter time than Usher and the longest boils by far were at Truman's Burton brewery.

This is good. There's a clear pattern in the fermentation temperatures. London brewers pitch slightly cooler and let their worts get warmer. To make it easy, I've put the averages into a table:


Pitch max
London 59.3º 71.4º  
Provincial 60.6º 68.3º

Note that the two Scottish brewers are close to the provincial average in their fermentation temperatures. Disproving that other load of Scottish bollocks, the one about them fermenting at near lager temperatures. Not even close to being true.

Most of the fermentations, both London and provincial, took 7 or 8 days. Not much else I can say about that.

Next time we'll be looking at the grists of these beers.


London X Ales in the 1880's
Date Year Brewer Beer Style OG FG ABV App. Atten-uation lbs hops/ qtr hops lb/brl boil time (hours) boil time (hours) boil time (hours) boil time (hours) Pitch temp max. fermen-tation temp length of fermen-tation (days)
4th May 1886 Barclay Perkins X Mild 1055.0 1010.0 5.96 81.87% 6.42 1.61 1.5 2 60º 72º 3 + 2
24th Jun 1886 Barclay Perkins X Mild 1064.0 1015.0 6.49 76.63% 8.00 1.97 2 2.5 60º 72º 3 + 3
3rd May 1887 Barclay Perkins XX Mild 1078.0 1024.9 7.02 68.04% 16.00 5.85 2 59º 70º 3 + 4
19th Oct 1886 Whitbread X Mild 1061.2 1015.8 6.01 74.21% 9.11 2.38 2 59º º 8
12th Nov 1885 Whitbread XL Mild 1071.2 1020.8 6.67 70.82% 8.13 2.48 1.5 2 60º º 7
19th May 1886 Truman X Ale Mild 1052.6 8.0 1.88 2 2 2.25 2.25 60.5º º 8
19th May 1886 Truman X Ale Mild 1058.7 8.0 2.09 2 2 2.25 2.25 60.5º º 8
23rd Apr 1887 Fuller X Mild 1054.6 1020.5 4.51 62.44% 6.64 1.63 1.5 1.75 58º 71º 12
23rd Apr 1887 Fuller XX Mild 1064.8 1023.3 5.50 64.10% 6.64 1.93 1.5 1.75 57º 72º 12
Sources:
Whitbread brewing records held at the London Metropolitan Archives document numbers LMA/4453/D/01/051 and LMA/4453/D/01/052.
Barclay Perkins brewing record held at the London Metropolitan Archives document number ACC/2305/1/584.
Truman brewing record held at the London Metropolitan Archives document number B/THB/C/166.


Provincial X Ales in the 1880's
Date Year Brewer Beer Style OG FG ABV App. Atten-uation lbs hops/ qtr hops lb/brl boil time (hours) boil time (hours) boil time (hours) Pitch temp max. fermen-tation temp length of fermen-tation (days)
11th May 1888 Tetley X Mild  1046.0 1016.1 3.96 65.06% 4.31 0.69 2 65º 68º 8
11th May 1888 Tetley X1 Mild  1053.7 1016.6 4.91 69.07% 5.31 1.02 2 63º 68º 8
14th May 1888 Tetley X2 Mild  1063.2 1016.6 6.16 73.68% 8.40 2.02 3 65º 68º 9
13th Jun 1888 Tetley X3 Mild  1071.2 1016.1 7.29 77.43% 12.00 3.57 3 63º 68º 8
22nd May 1885 William Younger X Mild 1048 1009 5.16 81.25% 5.29 0.99 2 2.5 60º 67º 6
24th May 1885 William Younger XX Mild 1056 1012 5.82 78.57% 6.19 1.53 2 2.5 60º 69º 7
1st June 1885 William Younger XXX Mild 1065 1021 5.82 67.69% 6.67 1.86 2 2.5 58º 67.5 6
9th Jan 1885 Thomas Usher X Mild 1050 1013 4.89 74.00% 9.00 2.00 1.5 2 58º 69.5º 6
18th Jan 1887 Truman (Burton) A Mild 1052.1 1012.2 5.28 76.60% 7.19 1.40 3 3 3 60º 68º 8
18th Jan 1887 Truman (Burton) 8 Mild 1054.0 1013.9 5.31 74.36% 7.19 1.45 3 3 3 60º 69º 8
8th Feb 1887 Truman (Burton) 7 Mild 1061.2 1016.6 5.90 72.85% 5.90 1.46 3 3 3 59º 68º 8
19th Jan 1887 Truman (Burton) 6 Mild 1066.5 1019.9 6.16 70.00% 6.64 1.95 3 3 3 57º 69º 8
8th Jan 1886 Hodgson XX Mild 1063.71 5.23 1.32 60º 69.5º
Sources:
Tetley brewing record held at the West Yorkshire Archive Service, Leeds document number WYL756/44/ACC1903
William Younger brewing record held at the Scottish Brewing Archive document number WY/6/1/2/31
Thomas Usher brewing record held at the Scottish Brewing Archive document number TU/6/1/1.
Truman brewing record held at the London Metropolitan Archives document number B/THB/BUR/11.
Hodgson brewing record held at the London Metropolitan Archives document number ACC/2305/08/253.

Sunday, 2 December 2012

William Murray's beers in the 1920's

It's funny, fun, fun time. As I tell my kids when I'm about to make them do something really boring. Yes, I'm back on the tables. Even better, a table of Scottish beers.

My gob was well and truly smacked when I noticed just how many analyses I had of William Murray beers. So many, that I'll have to spread them over multiple posts. I'm not sure why I have quite so many. They weren't the largest of Scottish breweries. Or of Edinburgh brewers. But therein probably lies the key. They were located in Edinburgh and so feature heavily in the William Younger and Thomas Usher Gravity Books.

I'm coming to the conclusion that in the 1920's and 1930's Scottish brewers had moved almost totally away from Mild to Pale Ale. Like Irish brewing, Scottish brewing was out of phase with England in terms of styles. But, while Ireland was 50 years or so behind, Scotland was 30 or 40 ahead. It's a phenomenon that was repeated with Lager. Maybe we should keep our eyes on Scotland to get a preview of the next dominant style.

The gravities are typically Scottish, with most of the Pale Ales in the 1035º to 1040º band. Then with a couple of really strong ones of 1055º plus. The middle ground of the 1040º's, where most English Pale Ales hung around shuffling the change in their pockets, is unoccupied. Most of them look like post-WW II ordinary Bitters.

It wouldn't surprise me, having seen Maclay's brewing records, if that solitary Mild was just a coloured-up Pale Ale. It looks very similar to the 4d Pale Ale.

Once again we can observe the use of Heavy as a synonym for "Strong", rather than as a designator of a specific style. I know I've said it lots of times before. But I'm going to keep repeating it until it sinks in. While I'm about different uses of terms some morons think are etched in stone as specific styles, note also the use of 90/- for a moderate-strength bottled Pale Ale.

I'm disappointed that there's no Milk Stout in this set. It was one of Murray's specialities. Instead there's a sweetish-looking Oatmeal Stout. Even that has a decent attenuation of 64%. that's something else worth mentioning: the relatively high degree of attenuation of Murray's beers. Most are over 70% and some over 80%.

I'll leave you with the table itself.


William Murray beers in the 1920's
Year Beer Style Price size package FG OG colour ABV App. Atten-uation Flavour
1923 Mild Mild pint draught 1006 1037 4.03 83.78%
1922 PA Pale Ale pint draught 1005 1037 4.17 86.49%
1923 Carbonated Beer Pale Ale 4d half pint bottled 1011.8 1035.2 27 3.03 66.48%
1924 Pale Ale Pale Ale 4d half pint bottled 1011.1 1036.3 25 3.26 69.42%
1924 Pale Ale Pale Ale pint draught 1037.2
1924 Strong PA Pale Ale pint bottled 1013 1057 5.73 77.19%
1925 Strong Pale Ale Pale Ale pint bottled 1015 1059.5 25 5.79 74.79%
1925 Pale Ale Pale Ale 4d half pint bottled 1010.5 1039.5 25 3.76 73.42%
1925 Strong PA Pale Ale pint bottled 1014 1060 5.99 76.67%
1925 Strong PA Pale Ale 6d half pint bottled 1015 1060 5.86 75.00%
1926 Pale Ale Pale Ale 4d half pint bottled 1010 1035 30 3.24 71.43%
1926 Pale Ale Pale Ale 4d half pint bottled 1008 1034 20 3.37 76.47%
1926 PA Pale Ale pint bottled 1010 1035 20 3.24 71.43%
1927 Pale Ale Pale Ale pint bottled 1007 1039 4.16 82.05%
1927 Pale Ale Pale Ale 4d half pint bottled 1012 1035 25 2.97 65.71%
1928 Pale Ale Pale Ale 4d half pint bottled 1009 1035 25 3.37 74.29%
1929 Pale Ale Pale Ale pint bottled 1009 1038.5 3.83 76.62%
1929 90/- Pale Ale pint bottled 1007.25 1040 4.26 81.88%
1929 4d Pale Ale (carbonated) Pale Ale 4d half pint bottled 1011 1035.5 3.17 69.01% Mawkish
1929 4d Pale Ale (carbonated) Pale Ale pint bottled 1011 1037 3.37 70.27% Fair but thin. Not sweet.
1929 Export Strong Pale Ale (carbonated) Pale Ale pint bottled 1013.5 1056 5.53 75.89%
1929 Pale Ale Pale Ale 4d half pint bottled 1008 1035.5 30
1929 Oatmeal Stout Stout pint bottled 1016 1044 3.62 63.64%
1924 Strong Ale Strong Ale pint 1011.5 1060.3 25 6.37 80.93%
1925 Heavy Ale Strong Ale 6d half pint bottled 1015 1079 8.40 81.01%
1928 Strong Ale Strong Ale pint bottled 1027 1085 80 7.55 68.24%
1929 Export Strong Ale (carbonated) Strong Ale pint bottled 1013 1057 5.73 77.19% Sweet & highly hopped.
1929 Heavy Ale (carbonated) Strong Ale pint bottled 1030 1087 7.40 65.52% Pleasant. Very sweet.
Sources:
Whitbread Gravity book held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document number LMA/4453/D/02/001
Thomas Usher Gravity Book document TU/6/11 held at the Scottish Brewing Archive
Younger, Wm. & Co Gravity Book document WY/6/1/1/19 held at the Scottish Brewing Archive

Saturday, 1 December 2012

Jubilee of Brewing at Craigmillar

What would I do without annual general meetings and the newspaper reports they generated? Do some proper research, that's what. The burrowing around in archives sort.

This report confirms what I've already said: Murray's was launched on a more sound financial footing than many other breweries. Even in the difficult times of the 1930's they were making a profit and declaring decent dividends. It just shows you that glamourous investments like Allsopp were often a far worse choice than more prosaic ones such as Murray.


"WILLIAM MURRAY & COMPANY, LIMITED
Jubilee of Brewing at Craigmillar

The annual general meeting of Messrs William Murray & Company, Limited, was held yesterday at Craigmillar. Mr C. H. Marshall S.S.C., chairman, said - "As the directors' report and accounts have been in your hands tor some time, I presume 1 may take them as read. We have reached the year when it is appropriate to review the history of the business which is now carried on under the name of William Murray & Company Limited. It is the jubilee year of the company and of the introduction of brewing Craigmillar, Edinburgh. Jubilees have been celebrated from the earliest times as days for rejoicing, and this is no exception. William Murray, the founder, belonged to a family of brewers who had brewed for generations at Ednam, in Roxburghshire. The destruction by fire of this brewery proved ultimately to be the starting-point for the development elsewhere of a brewery business which, in the environment of Ednam, no matter how much ability had been brought to bear upon the business there, could never have attained the same importance as another brewery established in a locality more favourably situated. Mr Murray must have recognised this, for, in place of re-erecting a brewery at Ednam, he decided to look around for a site which would furnish an unlimited supply of the best spring water, and also for industrial advantages which would further the development of a successful brewery business. The site he chose for the erection of his new brewery possessed all these, and in addition combined something more with which industrial conditions are not, as a rule associated, namely, a situation picturesque and romantic; to the north, Arthur's Seat, beneath whose shadows lie Duddingston Church and Loch; to the west the Metropolis, with its ancient Castle and numerous spires rising in the distance; and, towering in the south, Craigmillar Castle, with all its historical interest of bygone gaieties, tragedies, and memories.


The Situation,

"Almost midway between the historic landmarks of Craigmillar Castle and Duddingston Kirk, land which had remained undeveloped for hundreds years, the first brewery was erected, and was appropriately named Craigmillar Brewery. The selection of such a situation with such natural and industrial advantages is, I venture say, a great tribute to the business sagacity of the founder. For seven or eight years Craigmillar Brewery stood alone, but other brewers became attracted to the excellent quality of the brewing water, and seven breweries were ultimately erected within a comparatively small area. The number of buildings both industrial and residential has increased yearly, and we who are the successors of Murray may take pride in the fact that the establishment and development of this important industrial suburb of the Capital of Scotland owes its beginning to the erection, fifty years ago, of Craigmillar Brewery.

"In 1897 Mr Murray converted his business into limited liability company, and since then two brewery businesses have been purchased, and bottling stores have established in Glasgow and in Fife.


Outstanding Business Ability.

"Following Mr Murray, who retired 1922. Mr W. D. Hay became chairman and managing director of the company. I had the pleasure of knowing both Mr Murray and Mr W. D Hay for a long number of years. Long before I became a director of this company I was associated with them frequently in business transactions. Both were men of outstanding business ability and capacity, and what is perhaps more important, both were men of honour and integrity. It is a great pleasure to to testify to the work which they did to establish this company on the solid foundations on which it now stands, and it is a matter of regret that neither Mr Murray nor Mr Hay lived to see the jubilee of the company which they served so eminently and so well.


Improved Premises.

"Of the controversies regarding the liquor trade during the past fifty years I do not intend to speak. I should like, however, to touch upon one subject very briefly: the movement to improve licensed premises. It is a matter of great regret that every effort by the licensed trade to further this object has far received no encouragement — only opposition — from the official temperance societies. Until the licensing laws, as they at present stand on the Statute Book, are amended, it cannot be expected that the licensed trade will embark upon the large expenditure necessary to reconstruct present buildings or to build new premises as improved public-houses. So far however, as present legislation permits, we are helping in the construction of such houses, and our policy in this direction will be continued.


Most Satisfactory Figures.

"I turn now to the balance-sheet and profit and loss account for the past year. The figures, you will be pleased to observe, are the most satisfactory in the history of the company. This is gratifying in view of the present being the jubilee year of the company. It is proposed to place this year to the genera] reserve fund the sum of £5000, raising the general Reserve fund to £24,000. While the consumption of beer in Scotland has not shown the same marked increase during the past year as in England, there has been improvement. In view of this and the fact that your directors are of the opinion that provision has already been made for any ordinary contingency, they have resolved to pay a dividend at the rate of 5 per cent, per annum, less income tax, on Preference shares, and a final dividend on Ordinary shares at the rate of 10 per cent., less income tax, making a total dividend for the year at the rate of 15 per cent, per annum, less income tax, and to carry forward £16,921, subject to directors' fees, to next year."

Councillor John Hay, D.L., J.P., in seconding the adoption of the accounts, referred to the chairman's services during the past years, in which the company had made substantial progress. The appointment of Sir James Fraser Cunninghame, O.B.E., J.P., who was elected to the board during the year, was unanimously confirmed."
Evening Telegraph - Wednesday 09 December 1936, page 7.

I hadn't realised until now that the brewery had relocated so far. Ednam is a tiny village just outside Kelso and just two or three miles from the English border. Uprooting the business and moving it 50 miles to Edinburgh was a bold move. But one which obviously paid off. I can't imagine that the company could ever have become very large if it had remained located in the thinly-populated border region.

Checking in my trusty "A Century of British Brewers Plus", I see that the firm hadn't been in Ednam long, only having been founded in 1880, six years before the move to Duddingston. Sadly, the book doesn't say who the two brewery businesses were who Murray took over.

Like so many Scottish breweries, Murray disappeared in the frenzy of takeovers at the end of the 1950's and beginning of the 1960's. It was purchased by Northern Breweries, one of the forerunners of Bass Charrington, in 1960 and closed in 1963.

Just noticed how many analyses I have of Murray beers. I guess that will be next.