Regensburg 11.04.2008

Regensburg

First stop on the tour proper is Regensburg. Though we do make a detour to Kelheim on the way. To see if we can pick up a few bottles of Schneider Eisbock. Sadly, the brewery shop is closed. Bum. It was the only beer I intended taking home with me.

Wandering through the streets of Regensburg is a real pleasure. It's beautiful, as is the weather, and tourist season hasn't started yet. We can walk over the bridge relatively undisturbed. OK, there is a group of Italian schoolgirls, but that's it. Just over the bridge is the Spital brewery and pub.


Gaststätte Spitalgarten
St. Katarinenplatz 1,
93059 Regensburg.
Tel: 0941 - 847 74
Fax: 0941 - 890 3168
http://www.spitalgarten.de/

Walking around the back of the brewery, we notice a room with a small brewing plant. Far too small to be the real brewery. It must be a pilot plant.

The great weather means we can sit in the beer garden. The trees are starting to bud, the birds are singing and we're the only customers. Considering we're in the centre of town, it's incredibly quiet, with the Danube gurgling gently in the background.

This is when leaving the pub early last night pays off. I'm really in the mood for a beer. I opt for a Dunkles. Predictable, I know. But I love dark lager. It's dark brown, tastes of liquorice, roast and spice and is relatively dry. Very different from Schneider's Dunkles - more like one of the drier Czech examples. For a middle-sized brewery it's not bad at all. I score it 64 out of 100.






Brauereigaststätte Kneitinger
Arnulfsplatz 3,
93047 Regensburg.
Tel: 0941 - 52455
Fax: 0941 - 599 9982
Email: info@knei.de
http://www.knei.de/

This is getting repetitive. I'm retracing my steps from the last tour. Well, almost. I haven't got a map with me this time. Keith decides to skip looking around the town and come with me to Kneitinger. I'm pretty sure I can remember the way. It turns out to be another example of over-confidence in my own navigational ability. When the buildings start thinning out, Keith suggests we ask directions. Good idea. I ask the next person we meet, a charming young lady, if she knows where the Kneitinger brewery is. "Follow me, I'm going that way." People are very friendly down this way. And all seem to know where the breweries are in their town.

It's 11:30 when we get to Kneitinger. Which could explain why there are free seats. Usually it's packed. There's something about a dirndl. Especially when worn by a waitress. Even if she is old enough to be your granny (as in this case), it's still charming. Though this particular granny was slightly gruff. Before we even have chance to order, Andy and Jim arrive. Pretty brief look around town, Andy.

Not much later, I have another Dunkles in front of me. Kneitinger's version is sweet and nutty, with background notes of caramel and liquorice. Quite different again. I told you I'd be banging on about diversity in Dunkles. I haven't had two similar ones yet.

We're sitting in the drinking corridor. Kneitinger's brewery tap is very much like a traditional Yorkshire pub. The servery is in the corridor of which are several rooms. Surprisingly, the most crowded part is the standing section right by the bar counter. All blokes of a certain age. With beer guts that make me fell quite positive about my body.

More about day one tomorrow. I told you this would take some time.