Though its popularity is definitely on the slide, down from almost 70% of sales in 1996 to 55% in 2010*. Though there's currently no obvious replacement nor even a vague challenger. No other style had a market share of more than 10% in 2010**.
It's often assumed that after Pilsner was first brewed in 1842 that it spread like wildfire across Europe. It didn't. Its progress was much slower and it's only really in the 1880's that it starts to be brewed in any quantities outside Austria. Even then it remained an expensive speciality, mostly drunk by the middle classes. As you can see, there are considerable parallels with Burton Pale Ale.
Pilsner's progress wasn't helped by the fact that the Munich breweries and Dreher from Vienna got in first. Münchner and Viener were the first Lagers to be brewed in most countries. The earliest analyses I have of a German Pilsner is from 1878. Intriguingly, they're all from the Saxon town of Chemnitz and are described as "Bömischer Art" or "Bohemian style".
Only one analysis is from the south, from Munich's Löwenbräu. Which makes sense. They had their own Lager tradition in Bavaria and were more reluctant than brewers from the north in adopting foreign styles. Munich brewers in particular were afraid of debasing their dark Lager brand if they brewed pale beers. Eventually they were unable to resist public demand and in the 1890's all the big Munich breweries introduced one.
Anyway, here's the table:
| German Pilsener 1878 - 1893 | |||||||||
| Year | Brewer | Town | Beer | OG | FG | OG Plato | ABV | App. Atten-uation | Lactic acid % |
| 1900 | unknown | unknown | Pilsener Draught | 1043.6 | 1012.3 | 10.91 | 4.06 | 70.94% | |
| 1878 | Feldschlösschen | Chemnitz | Bömischer Art | 1044.3 | 1007.1 | 11.07 | 4.85 | 83.97% | |
| 1878 | Böttger's Brauerei | Chemnitz | Bömischer Art | 1044.5 | 1006.2 | 11.11 | 5.00 | 86.07% | |
| 1878 | Societäts-Brauerei | Chemnitz | Bömischer Art | 1044.5 | 1009.3 | 11.11 | 4.58 | 79.10% | |
| 1900 | unknown | unknown | Pilsener Bottle | 1047.4 | 1013.9 | 11.80 | 4.34 | 69.66% | |
| 1878 | Bergschlösschen | Chemnitz | Bömischer Art | 1048.5 | 1012.8 | 12.07 | 4.63 | 73.61% | |
| 1878 | Schloss Chemnitz | Chemnitz | Bömischer Art | 1050.1 | 1013.1 | 12.45 | 4.80 | 73.85% | |
| 1884 | Bremer Aktien-Brauerei | Bremen | Pilsener | 1050.3 | 1009.1 | 12.50 | 5.38 | 81.91% | 0.145 |
| 1884 | Union-Brauerei | Hannover | nach Pilsener Art | 1050.7 | 1013.1 | 12.59 | 4.89 | 74.16% | 0.136 |
| 1891 | National-Aktien-Brauerei | Braunschweig | Pilsener | 1050.7 | 1015.2 | 12.59 | 4.60 | 70.02% | |
| 1891 | Aktien-Brauerei Streitberg | Streitberg | Pilsener | 1051.3 | 1009.9 | 12.73 | 5.40 | 80.70% | |
| 1893 | Brauerei Hammonia | Hamburg | Pilsener | 1052.8 | 1020.3 | 13.09 | 4.20 | 61.55% | |
| 1884 | Städtisches Brauerei | Hannover | nach Pilsener Art | 1055.2 | 1014 | 13.65 | 5.36 | 74.64% | 0.147 |
| 1893 | Löwen-Brauerei | Hamburg | Pilsener | 1056.1 | 1015.9 | 13.85 | 5.21 | 71.63% | 0.405 |
| 1890 | Löwenbrauerei | Munich | Pilsener | 1057.5 | 1017.3 | 14.19 | 5.21 | 69.91% | 0.405 |
| Average | 1049.8 | 1012.6 | 12.38 | 4.83 | 74.78% | 0.248 | |||
| Sources: | |||||||||
| Chemie der menschlichen Nahrungs- und Genussmittel by Joseph König, 1903, pages 1102 - 1156 | |||||||||
| The 1911 Encyclopedia Brittanica | |||||||||
| "Chemie der menschlichen Nahrungs- und Genussmittel" by Joseph König, 1889, pages 806 - 851 | |||||||||
| "Handbuch der chemischen technologie" by Otto Dammer, Rudolf Kaiser, 1896, pages 696-697 | |||||||||
For comparison purposes, here are some Pilsners from Pilsen itself:
| Bohemian Pilsener 1876 - 1893 | |||||||||
| Year | Brewer | Town | Beer | OG | FG | OG Plato | ABV | App. Atten-uation | Lactic acid % |
| 1888 | Alt-Pilsener | Pilsen | Schenkbier | 1039.7 | 1012.1 | 9.96 | 3.58 | 69.52% | |
| 1898 | Bürgerliches Brauhaus | Pilsen | Schankbier | 1043.0 | 1011.5 | 10.76 | 4.09 | 73.26% | 0.112 |
| 1886 | Bürgerliches Brauhaus | Pilsen | Pilsener | 1043.3 | 1014.5 | 10.83 | 3.73 | 66.51% | |
| 1886 | Actien Brauhaus | Pilsen | Pilsener | 1043.7 | 1012.5 | 10.92 | 4.04 | 71.40% | |
| 1876 | Actien Brauhaus | Pilsen | Lagerbier | 1044.9 | 1011.1 | 11.21 | 4.39 | 75.28% | 0.120 |
| 1878 | unknown | Pilsen | Bömisches Bier | 1045.0 | 1012.0 | 11.22 | 4.28 | 73.30% | |
| 1876 | Bürgerliches Brauhaus | Pilsen | Lagerbier | 1045.0 | 1013.0 | 11.23 | 4.15 | 71.11% | 0.120 |
| 1876 | Bürgerliches Brauhaus | Pilsen | Pilsener | 1046.5 | 1013.0 | 11.59 | 4.35 | 72.04% | 0.160 |
| 1886 | Bürgerliches Brauhaus | Pilsen | Lagerbier | 1047.3 | 1012.7 | 11.78 | 4.49 | 73.15% | |
| 1898 | Bürgerliches Brauhaus | Pilsen | Lagerbier | 1047.3 | 1012.6 | 11.78 | 4.50 | 73.36% | 0.103 |
| 1886 | Bürgerliches Brauhaus | Pilsen | Pilsener | 1047.8 | 1015.4 | 11.89 | 4.19 | 67.75% | |
| 1890 | unknown | Pilsen | Pilsener | 1047.8 | 1013.0 | 11.91 | 4.34 | 72.83% | |
| 1897 | Unknown | Pilsen | Original-Pilsener | 1048.0 | 1014.3 | 11.95 | 4.36 | 70.21% | 0.242 |
| 1890 | Unknown | Pilsen | Pilsener | 1048.1 | 1013.1 | 11.97 | 4.54 | 72.77% | 0.186 |
| 1888 | Bürgerliches Brauhaus | Pilsen | Pilsener | 1048.5 | 1015.0 | 12.07 | 4.34 | 69.07% | |
| 1898 | Unknown | Pilsen | Pilsener (sold in Berlin) | 1048.5 | 1014.3 | 12.07 | 4.44 | 70.52% | |
| 1870 | Actien-Brauhaus | Pilsen | Pilsener | 1048.6 | 1012.8 | 12.08 | 4.64 | 73.64% | |
| 1876 | Bürgerliches Brauhaus | Pilsen | Lagerbier | 1048.6 | 1012.8 | 12.09 | 4.65 | 73.66% | 0.170 |
| 1891 | Actien Brauhaus | Pilsen | Pilsener (sold in Zürich) | 1048.9 | 1012.0 | 12.16 | 4.80 | 75.46% | |
| 1891 | Bürgerliches Brauhaus | Pilsen | Pilsener (sold in Zürich) | 1049.3 | 1014.6 | 12.26 | 4.50 | 70.39% | |
| 1876 | Bürgerliches Brauhaus | Pilsen | Schenkbier | 1050.5 | 1013.8 | 12.54 | 4.76 | 72.67% | |
| 1892 | Pilsener Export-Brauerei | Pilsen | Pilsener (sold in Bern) | 1052.2 | 1011.1 | 12.94 | 5.35 | 78.74% | 0.120 |
| 1893 | Bürgerliches Brauhaus | Pilsen | Pilsener | 1053.2 | 1013.2 | 13.18 | 5.20 | 75.19% | 0.320 |
| 1890 | Bürgerliches Brauhaus | Pilsen | Pilsener Exportbier | 1054.6 | 1014.5 | 13.51 | 5.22 | 73.53% | 0.320 |
| Average | 1047.5 | 1013.1 | 11.83 | 4.45 | 72.31% | 0.179 | |||
| Sources: | |||||||||
| Chemie der menschlichen Nahrungs- und Genussmittel by Joseph König, 1903, pages 1102 - 1156 | |||||||||
| "Chemie der menschlichen Nahrungs- und Genussmittel" by Joseph König, 1889, pages 806 - 851 | |||||||||
| "Bericht über die Entwickelung der chemischen Industrie während des letzten Jahrzehends" by August Wilhelm von Hofmann, 1877, page 382 | |||||||||
| "Handbuch der chemischen technologie" by Otto Dammer, Rudolf Kaiser, 1896, pages 696-697 | |||||||||
And now modern German Pilsners:
| German Pils in 2014 | ||||||||
| Brewer | Town | Beer | OG | FG | OG Plato | ABV | App. Atten-uation | bitterness |
| Brauereigasthof Winkler | Berching | Premium Pils | 1046.5 | 1011.2 | 11.6 | 4.60 | 76.04% | |
| Brauerei Windsheimer | Gutenstetten | Pils | 1047.8 | 1011.6 | 11.9 | 4.70 | 75.73% | |
| Privatbrauerei Gessner | Sonneberg | Pilsner | 1047.4 | 1010.5 | 11.8 | 4.80 | 77.83% | |
| Holsten | Hamburg Altona | Pilsener | 1044.9 | 1008 | 11.2 | 4.80 | 82.17% | |
| Einbecker Brauhaus | Einbeck | Premium Pilsener | 1044.9 | 1008 | 11.2 | 4.80 | 82.17% | |
| Bürgerbräu Hersbruck | Hersbruck | Edel-Pils | 1046.1 | 1009.2 | 11.5 | 4.80 | 80.05% | |
| Zum Löwenbräu Flair Hotel | Adelsdorf | Edel-Pilsner | 1049.1 | 1011.4 | 12.2 | 4.90 | 76.76% | |
| Kulmbacher Brauerei | Kulmbach | Kulmbacher Edelherb | 1045.3 | 1007.7 | 11.3 | 4.90 | 82.99% | |
| Arnsteiner Brauerei | Seinsheim | Pils | 1045.7 | 1008.1 | 11.4 | 4.90 | 82.27% | |
| Brauhaus Leikeim | Altenkunstadt | Premium | 1045.7 | 1008.1 | 11.4 | 4.90 | 82.27% | |
| Einbecker Brauhaus | Einbeck | Brauherren Pils | 1045.7 | 1008.1 | 11.4 | 4.90 | 82.27% | |
| Privatbrauerei Gessner | Sonneberg | Premium Pils | 1047.8 | 1010.2 | 11.9 | 4.90 | 78.76% | |
| Braugasthof Grosch | Rödental | Grosch Prinz Albert Pils | 1046.1 | 1008.5 | 11.5 | 4.90 | 81.57% | |
| Paulaner | Munich | Premium Pils | 1046.1 | 1008.5 | 11.5 | 4.90 | 81.57% | |
| Brauerei Gasthof Wiethaler | Lauf an der Pegnitz | Neunhofer Pils | 4.90 | |||||
| Brauerei Gasthof Wiethaler | Lauf an der Pegnitz | Neunhofer Edelpils | 4.90 | |||||
| Kulmbacher Brauerei | Kulmbach | EKU Pils | 1046.5 | 1008.9 | 11.6 | 4.90 | 80.87% | |
| Brauerei Kanone Löhr | Schnaittach | Pils | 1046.5 | 1008.9 | 11.6 | 4.90 | 80.87% | |
| Brauerei Hermann Sigwart | Weißenburg | Premium Pils | 1046.5 | 1008.9 | 11.6 | 4.90 | 80.87% | |
| Braugold | Erfurt | Riebeck Premium Pilsener | 1046.5 | 1008.9 | 11.6 | 4.90 | 80.87% | |
| Kulmbacher Brauerei | Kulmbach | Mönchshof Original Pils | 1046.5 | 1008.9 | 11.6 | 4.90 | 80.87% | |
| Schübel Bräu | Stadtsteinach | Pils | 1047.0 | 1009.3 | 11.7 | 4.90 | 80.19% | |
| Brauerei Hofmann | Pahres | Hopfengold-Pilsener | 1047.4 | 1009.7 | 11.8 | 4.90 | 79.52% | |
| Ammerndorfer Bier Dorn Bräu | Ammerndorf | Pils | 1047.4 | 1009.7 | 11.8 | 4.90 | 79.52% | |
| Püls-bräu | Stadtsteinach | Weismainer Premium | 1050.3 | 1011.9 | 12.5 | 5.00 | 76.35% | |
| Göller | Zeil am Main | Original | 1047.4 | 1009 | 11.8 | 5.00 | 81.00% | |
| Göller | Zeil am Main | Pilsner | 1047.4 | 1009 | 11.8 | 5.00 | 81.00% | |
| Püls-bräu | Stadtsteinach | Weismainer Krone Pils | 1047.4 | 1009 | 11.8 | 5.00 | 81.00% | |
| Gasthof Gundel | Kammerstein | Pils | 1047.4 | 1009 | 11.8 | 5.00 | 81.00% | |
| Brauerei Hofmann | Pahres | Pils 0.33 | 1047.8 | 1009.4 | 11.9 | 5.00 | 80.33% | |
| Wolf | Zeil am Main | Land Pils | 1046.1 | 1007.8 | 11.5 | 5.00 | 83.19% | |
| Privatbrauerei Kesselring | Marktsteft | Premium Pils | 1048.2 | 1009.8 | 12.0 | 5.00 | 79.67% | |
| Kitzmann-Bräu | Erlangen | Edelpils | 1048.2 | 1009.8 | 12.0 | 5.00 | 79.67% | |
| Strauß Karl Brauerei | Treuchtlingen | Wettelsheimer Wet | 1051.6 | 1013.1 | 12.8 | 5.00 | 74.61% | |
| Strauß Karl Brauerei | Treuchtlingen | Wettelsheimer Pils | 1051.6 | 1013.1 | 12.8 | 5.00 | 74.61% | |
| Holsten | Hamburg Altona | Extra Herb | 1044.9 | 1006.5 | 11.2 | 5.00 | 85.51% | |
| Pyraser Landbrauerei | Thalmässing | Gutsherrn Pils | 1047.4 | 1008.3 | 11.8 | 5.10 | 82.58% | |
| Weihenstephan | Freising | Pilsner | 1047.4 | 1008.3 | 11.8 | 5.10 | 82.58% | |
| Kulmbacher Brauerei | Kulmbach | Pilsner | 1047.4 | 1008.3 | 11.8 | 5.10 | 82.58% | |
| Distelhäuser | Tauberbischofsheim | Pils | 1050.3 | 1011.1 | 12.5 | 5.10 | 77.94% | 22 |
| Püls-bräu | Stadtsteinach | Weismainer HopfenGold | 1047.8 | 1008.6 | 11.9 | 5.11 | 82.01% | |
| Göller | Zeil am Main | Premium Pilsner | 1049.9 | 1010 | 12.4 | 5.20 | 79.96% | 33 - 34 |
| Braugold | Erfurt | Erfurter Angerbräu Premium Pils | 1050.3 | 1010.4 | 12.5 | 5.20 | 79.33% | |
| Forschungsbrauerei | Munich | Pilsissimus Exportbier | 1052.4 | 1009.5 | 13.0 | 5.60 | 81.88% | |
| Average | 1047.5 | 1009.4 | 11.8 | 5.0 | 80.31% | 22.0 | ||
| Sources: | ||||||||
| Brewery websites. | ||||||||
What I find most remarkable is how similar all the sets are to one another. The average gravity of the 19th-century Czech and modern German examples is identical. Though the average gravity of the 19th-century German samples is half a degree Plato higher. Unsurprisingly, there's one big difference: the level of attenuation. It's 80% in the modern examples and below 75% in the older examples. For the 19h century, anything over 70% attenuation is quite high. Whereas in most modern German Lagers it's over 80%.
The modern Pilsners show less variation than the older ones. The gravity range is 9.96 to 13.51º Plato (3.55º difference) for 19th-century Czech Pilsners, 10.91 to 14.19º Plato (4.28º difference) in old German ones, 11.20 to 13.00º Plato (2.8º difference) in modern German ones. 23 of the 42 modern examples are 0.2º Plato either side of the average of 11.8º Plato (11.4º to 12º Plato) and 31 are 0.4º Plato either side of the average. That's 55% and 74%, respectively.
It's a shame that I've so few EBU bitterness values. They aren't enough to do anything sensible with.
Time for one final table. Of a modern phenomenon: Leicht Pils.
| German Leicht Pils in 2014 | ||||||||
| Brewer | Town | Beer | OG | FG | OG Plato | ABV | App. Atten-uation | bitterness |
| Zum Löwenbräu Flair Hotel | Adelsdorf | Leichtes | 1030.8 | 1009.2 | 7.8 | 2.80 | 70.15% | |
| Distelhäuser | Tauberbischofsheim | Leichtes | 1030.8 | 1008.4 | 7.8 | 2.90 | 72.75% | 18 |
| Ammerndorfer Bier Dorn Bräu | Ammerndorf | Leicht | 1030.8 | 1008.4 | 7.8 | 2.90 | 72.75% | |
| Püls-bräu | Stadtsteinach | Weismainer Feinherb | 1031.2 | 1008.8 | 7.9 | 2.90 | 71.82% | |
| Gasthof Gundel | Kammerstein | Nimm's leicht | 1031.2 | 1008.8 | 7.9 | 2.90 | 71.82% | |
| Pyraser Landbrauerei | Thalmässing | Das leichte Pyraser | 1038.2 | 1009.7 | 9.6 | 3.70 | 74.61% | |
| Average | 1032.2 | 1008.9 | 8.1 | 3.0 | 72.32% | 18.0 | ||
| Sources: | ||||||||
| Brewery websites. | ||||||||
They're all very similar to each other except the Pyraser, which looks like an Ordinary Bitter. The others all fall into the old Schankbier category, being under 8º Plato. While the Pyraser is slap in the middle of the old "forbidden zone" of 8º - 11º Plato. It's remarkable how few beers are brewed even now at the old forbidden gravities. I guess old habits die hard.
Hefeweizen next, I think.
* Brauwelt Brevier 2003 and Deutscher Brauer-Bund, Bonn.
** Deutscher Brauer-Bund, Bonn.
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