Saturday 14 June 2008

Austro-Hungarian beer production 1887-1893

Yesterday was very exciting. The postman delivered more books. You can never have enough books. I'm not sure Dolores agrees.

Three books came. One is a particular favourite of mine: "Zeitschrift für das gesammte Brauwesen". The 1889 edition. It never disappoints. Just quickly flicking through I found half a dozen tables of enthralling statistics. Stuff very relevant to one of my summer themes: Lager.

That's no coincidence, of course. I deliberately ordered the book because I knew it would be packed with bottom-fermenting delights. It's a wonderfully information-rich source for a period (the end of the 19th century) when central European brewing techniques were starting to conquer the world.

I've always had a fascination for the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Probably connected with the way in which one of the largest countries in Europe disappeared overnight at the end of WW I. Or how its legacy refuses to disappear.

Judging by the wonderfully detailed figures, the Austro-Hungarian beer taxation system must have been based on gravity. Lucky for me. And you. It means we can see exactly how much of each strength of beer was brewed. You think that's dull? Then I think you're reading the wrong blog. Try Stonch's. He has more populist stuff about strippers and Hollyoaks.

So just us serious saddoes left. I won't count how many of us there are. Let's just say we won't need to rent a bus.


The vast majority - 95% - of beer produced was in the range 10-13º Balling (1040 - 1052). Over 50% was 10º Balling. What does that tell us? That not much has changed in the strength of beer brewed in the Czech Republic over the last 120 years. The situation today is remarkably similar. It might surprise some that the classic gravity of 12º is so poorly represented.

Here are the raw numbers. This is for the hardcore only.


While this is typical for central Europe, a similar table for Britain would look very different. In the 19th century, little British-brewed beer had a gravity below 1052 (13º Balling). A Pale Ale of the period would have been 1060-1065 (16º Balling). In 1900, the average gravity of all beer brewed in Britain was almost 14º Balling, a hefty 3º Balling higher than in Austria-Hungary.

The original figures are broken down by province. Which is why I can now focus in on two specific parts of the Austro-hungarian Empire: Bohemia and Moravia (the Czech Lands or the modern Czech Republic) and modern Austria. The latter is only an approximation, as part of Tirol is now in Italy.


The preponderance of 10º is even greater in the Czech lands - 72%. The tiny amount of 12º brewed is a surprise. Remember Pilsen is in Bohemia and 12º is the classic Pilsener gravity. As you can see from the table below, the situation is still quite similar today.

Beer production by beer type
beer type 2004 2005
výcepní (10º)
61.3% 59.8%
ležák (11-12º)
34.4% 35.8%
specialní (13º +)
1.05%
non-alcoholic beer 1.1% 1.25%
Source:
Český svaz pivovarů a sladoven

The distribution by gravity is quite different for Austria:


Here almost as much 12º and 13º was brewed as 10º. There's also considerable variation between the different Austrian provinces. In Steiermark almost two thirds of production was 13º or higher. In Niederösterreich (which included Vienna) little other than 10º and 14º was brewed.

How does that compare to modern Austrian beer production. Well let's have a look:


There's been a dramatic shift towards the middle. Whereas in 1888 the most popular gravity was below 11º, today 85% of beer is between 11º or 12º.

9 comments:

Anonymous said...

This is good to know - I'm reading The Good Soldier Švejk at the moment, I can now picture him getting stuck into a desítka (most likely).

Do you have info about beer colour in this period, or am I ruining the surprise of subsequent entries?

Joel said...

Ahh, the summer of Lager. I'd decided it was the Year of Porter myself but thankfully that's a choice we all get to make.

Porter-wise, the word on the street is that some Dutch porter is getting trotted out at the Falling Rock in Denver tonight. Described thus:

De Molen/Pattison Triple Stout . One of Ron Pattison's recreation beers. High starting gravity, a beer of 10% ABV.

De Molen/Pattison London Porter. Recreation beer of old world porter. 5.8% ABV

...I'll probably be thirsty later on so I reckon I'll drop in. I'll be sure to download the style guidelines for Dutch Porter and bring my red pen.

Anonymous said...

It's interesting to see how little changes there are in the gravity range of these beers over time. Especially when you contrast that with how Doppelbock changed. Any theories about why one stayed the same for 120 years and the other changed dramatically? I'm curious.

Kristen England said...

Its interesting that none of any of that stuff is in Hungarian. I know that Austrian was the major language, even by the Hungarian aristocracy, but you think their would be something from the beer being Hungarian. Hungarian is still a land that doen't have a lot of education were a lot of their higher government people dont speak anything other than Hungary. The wife is Hungarian so her interest peeked right up when she saw what I was reading (eg your post). See if you can poke around a bit and find anything in there in 'magyarul'.

Ron Pattinson said...

Lachlan, funny you should mention colour. I've a set of analyses from the 1870's that includes the colour.

Now I'm not quite sure what the scale is, but there are a couple of beers that give an idea. Pilsner Urquell is 3.5, Ale 10 and Porter 40. Most of the Austrian beers are in the range 6-7. The Czech beers are paler, 3.5 - 5. The palest of all is Pilsner Urquell, which I think tells you something.

Joel, I hope the Dutch Porter was up to scratch.

Bill, I've analyses for Pilsner Urquell from 1870 to the present day. It's always been 12º Balling and 4.4% ABV. I think these beers haven't changed much because they were essentially already modern beers. Unlike Salvator.

Kristen, the source I'm using isn't Austrian but German. I've never looked to see if there's anything around in Hungarian, as I can't make head or tail of the language.

Ron Pattinson said...

Lachlan, an earlier post gives information about the colour of Astrian lagers:

http://barclayperkins.blogspot.com/
2007/10/austrian-lager-in-1870s.html

Anonymous said...

Thanks Ron. I guess I'm specifically curious as to what proportion of beer in the Czech Republic was light/dark (if indeed there was a clear distinction between colours as there is now) at the time. Conventional wisdom seems to be that back in the day darker beers were more prevalent, I'm just curious to see whether that is indeed the case. Any insights?

Ron Pattinson said...

lachlan, I can't give you a definitive answer about colour, but all the Bohemina beers I've seen analysed were pale. I've not come across a single dark one. And in Austria the beers were a bit darker.

I know little of the history of dark Czech lager. I need to read more.

I'm just trying to transcribe some analyses of beers from around Nürnberg 1886. No mention of colour, unfortunately. I would guess dark. But I've been wrong before.

Anonymous said...

Hochinteressant. You are going to continue this analysis further as your research grows and publish a book, aren't you???

Well, I'd read it, anyway.