Thursday, 25 December 2014
Drinkalongathon 2014 - posh Spanish wine
16:27
Lovely duck demolished. Slightly black and crispy, but Jamie's food on the telly is often burnt, too.
The wininess of the wine went perfectly the duckiness of the duck. I'm already starting to flag. Not even teatime yet.
"Where did you put the Laphroaig, Dolores?"
Lovely duck demolished. Slightly black and crispy, but Jamie's food on the telly is often burnt, too.
The wininess of the wine went perfectly the duckiness of the duck. I'm already starting to flag. Not even teatime yet.
"Where did you put the Laphroaig, Dolores?"
Drinkalongathon 2014 - two fisted computer
15:36
I'm sitting at the Barclay Perkins nerve centre. My craoppy little computer desk
The medical gauziness combines wonderfully with my imminent need for medical attention. A gulp of the sweet godliness that is Abt smoothes out the spiky alcoholiness a treat.
Yes, my tasting notes are getting ever better.
"Shall I open the port, Ronald?"
"Yeah, why not?'
I'm sitting at the Barclay Perkins nerve centre. My craoppy little computer desk
The medical gauziness combines wonderfully with my imminent need for medical attention. A gulp of the sweet godliness that is Abt smoothes out the spiky alcoholiness a treat.
Yes, my tasting notes are getting ever better.
"Shall I open the port, Ronald?"
"Yeah, why not?'
Drinkalongathon 2014 - starter and white wine
14:15
Bit late with this. Too busy tucking into my starter. Goat chesse pastry, if you're wondering. And salad. Lots of salad.
The goatiness of the cheese is complimentary cut by the appleness of the Chardonnay. It's French and quite posh. Yummie.
Got to go now. red wine to try, duck to turn, Chardonnay to finish off.
Bit late with this. Too busy tucking into my starter. Goat chesse pastry, if you're wondering. And salad. Lots of salad.
The goatiness of the cheese is complimentary cut by the appleness of the Chardonnay. It's French and quite posh. Yummie.
Got to go now. red wine to try, duck to turn, Chardonnay to finish off.
Drinkalongathon 2014 - Abt and Outnumbered
13:46
The starters are just about done so this will have to be quick. ETA of the first course is 2 pm.
This is always a solemn moment, opening the first Abt of Christmas. It's my one nod to religion at this very special time of year. Its restrained fruitness and all-round loveliness fits perfectly with the family chaos of Outnumbered.
Remember to have your string ready for later.
The starters are just about done so this will have to be quick. ETA of the first course is 2 pm.
This is always a solemn moment, opening the first Abt of Christmas. It's my one nod to religion at this very special time of year. Its restrained fruitness and all-round loveliness fits perfectly with the family chaos of Outnumbered.
Remember to have your string ready for later.
Drinkalongathon 2014 - Laphroaig and Marooned
12:58
I'm so behind schedule this year. Almost 1 pm and I've only just poured my first Laphroaig. I could see the disappointment in Dolores's eyes.
The iodiney magic of the Laphroaig melds perfectly with bloody butchery of the bloke on the telly preparing a deer.
Not much time. The starters won't make themselves.
I'm so behind schedule this year. Almost 1 pm and I've only just poured my first Laphroaig. I could see the disappointment in Dolores's eyes.
The iodiney magic of the Laphroaig melds perfectly with bloody butchery of the bloke on the telly preparing a deer.
Not much time. The starters won't make themselves.
Drinkalongathon 2014 - 't Ij IPA and bacon sandwich
12:23
A disappointigly slow pace so far today. Been busy with little details like stuffing the duck and making myself breakfast.
A great way of getting the kids up, too. Frying bacon, I mean. No sooner was the first rasher in the frying pan than they were sniffing around in the kitchen demanding bacon.
The mellow fruitness of the IPA cuts across nicely the fatty, meaty deliciousness that is bacon. And Dolores's fancy spelt bread wraps nicely around the outside in a wholemealy sort of way.
No time to dally. I need to get the duck in the oven.
Get your Laphroaig* ready. You'll be needing it soon. And it better be a litre bottle if you plan matching me drink for drink.
* Lagavullin will also do.
A disappointigly slow pace so far today. Been busy with little details like stuffing the duck and making myself breakfast.
A great way of getting the kids up, too. Frying bacon, I mean. No sooner was the first rasher in the frying pan than they were sniffing around in the kitchen demanding bacon.
The mellow fruitness of the IPA cuts across nicely the fatty, meaty deliciousness that is bacon. And Dolores's fancy spelt bread wraps nicely around the outside in a wholemealy sort of way.
No time to dally. I need to get the duck in the oven.
Get your Laphroaig* ready. You'll be needing it soon. And it better be a litre bottle if you plan matching me drink for drink.
* Lagavullin will also do.
Drinkalongathon 2014 - fino sherry and White Christmas
10:42
Welcome to Drinkalongathon 2014!
Bit of a late start this year. I've been busy making the stuffing for the duck. And searching the internet to see how long the duck needs to be cooked. Around 3 hours, it seems.
Stuffing done, I've cracked open the sherry. We've only one bottle this year so I can't go crazy.
What says Christmas more than a reggae version of White Christmas? That's what's playing at the moment and its sticky sentimentality complements perfectly the dry saltiness of the sherry.
I should really have some breakfast before I get too stuck into our booze pile. What goes with a bacon sandwich? I know - anything. If you've a bacon sandwich in your hand what does it matter what you're tipping down your neck?
Welcome to Drinkalongathon 2014!
Bit of a late start this year. I've been busy making the stuffing for the duck. And searching the internet to see how long the duck needs to be cooked. Around 3 hours, it seems.
Stuffing done, I've cracked open the sherry. We've only one bottle this year so I can't go crazy.
What says Christmas more than a reggae version of White Christmas? That's what's playing at the moment and its sticky sentimentality complements perfectly the dry saltiness of the sherry.
I should really have some breakfast before I get too stuck into our booze pile. What goes with a bacon sandwich? I know - anything. If you've a bacon sandwich in your hand what does it matter what you're tipping down your neck?
Wednesday, 24 December 2014
Drinkalongathon again
There are some things that defy reason. The popularity of my Drinkalongathon is a great example.
I say popularity. Two readers have said it was OK. That counts as a ringing endorsement by me.
It'll be back again tomorow. With the usual varying degrees of veracity.
Sadly, my Leffe glass is no more. This year I return to the traditional Chimay glass. . . . . Filled with st. Bernardus.
I say popularity. Two readers have said it was OK. That counts as a ringing endorsement by me.
It'll be back again tomorow. With the usual varying degrees of veracity.
Sadly, my Leffe glass is no more. This year I return to the traditional Chimay glass. . . . . Filled with st. Bernardus.
Let's brew Wednesday - 1864 Lovibond XXXX
"What about something special for Christmas?" Kristen suggested. Good idea, as Wednesday is Weisswurst day this year.
Being a lazy bastard, I automatically went for the one beer I could remember being specifically brewed for Christmas. A cheerfully strong Lovibond XXXX. I have seen Christmas mentioned in other records. Not remembering exactly where, I wasn't going to waste my time looking. Sorry, my time is precious.
This recipe has been brewed professionally. Rod made a version at Meantime Old Brewery. And very nice it was, too. He recently told me that he still has a bottle. With my name on it. Must get to London again soon.
What can I say about the beer? It's a strong Mild Ale. Or is that an Old Ale? I'm not going to argue the toss. It's an Ale, I'll leave it at that.
Almost forgot - shows there was beer specially brewed for Christmas in the middle of the 19th century.
Kristen time . . . . . .
Kristen’s Version:
Notes: Quite simply, a really eye opening beer.
1) it was made for Xmas
2) any beer that manages to fit 5 ‘ecks’ in a title 5X’s is good with me and
3) if you added a bunch of crystal malt and took away commonsense you’d have a craft double IPA and if you only made 4 bottles then broke to it would be #1 on Ratebeer and Beer Advocate 100. “It tastes like Santa and Jesus dancing on my tongue and I got one of only two bottles!!!!’.
Anyway….this is a great beer and should be made by all including using entirely whole hops so you can see what a beast this thing is to work with…Fin.
Malt: One malt. Pick something nice. Don’t be lazy. I’m choosing a 50:50 blend of Maris otter and Golden promise. Yes, I said 1 malt but since you guys don’t follow along with what I say, I wont either…
Hops: Cabbage, skunk weed, garbage water, garlic chives and dirty ass patchouli smelling are welcome as long as you don’t shate this beer with me. Really. A nice combo of Amarillo of Styrian Goldings would be nice. Fuggles and Pilgrim. Brewers Gold and Chinook. Or even the ones I have listed. Make sure they are fresh, regardless of the twattery that ensures thereafter.
Yeast: London III. Yeah, I’m being lazy. The Courage yeast would be great. Us anything but your standard US Cali ale. Something with a bit of character. Please.
Cask: Standard procedure:
1) let the beer ferment until finished and then give it another day or so. For me right around 5-7 days.
2) Rack the beer to your vessel of choice (firkin, polypin, cornie, whatever).
3) Add primings at ~3.5g/L
4) Add prepared isinglass at 1ml/L
5) ONLY add dry hops at 0.25g/l – 1g/L.
6) Bung it up and roll it around to mix. Condition at 55F or so for 4-5 days and its ready to go. Spile/vent. Tap. Settle. Serve at 55F.
Being a lazy bastard, I automatically went for the one beer I could remember being specifically brewed for Christmas. A cheerfully strong Lovibond XXXX. I have seen Christmas mentioned in other records. Not remembering exactly where, I wasn't going to waste my time looking. Sorry, my time is precious.
This recipe has been brewed professionally. Rod made a version at Meantime Old Brewery. And very nice it was, too. He recently told me that he still has a bottle. With my name on it. Must get to London again soon.
What can I say about the beer? It's a strong Mild Ale. Or is that an Old Ale? I'm not going to argue the toss. It's an Ale, I'll leave it at that.
Almost forgot - shows there was beer specially brewed for Christmas in the middle of the 19th century.
Kristen time . . . . . .
Kristen’s Version:
Notes: Quite simply, a really eye opening beer.
1) it was made for Xmas
2) any beer that manages to fit 5 ‘ecks’ in a title 5X’s is good with me and
3) if you added a bunch of crystal malt and took away commonsense you’d have a craft double IPA and if you only made 4 bottles then broke to it would be #1 on Ratebeer and Beer Advocate 100. “It tastes like Santa and Jesus dancing on my tongue and I got one of only two bottles!!!!’.
Anyway….this is a great beer and should be made by all including using entirely whole hops so you can see what a beast this thing is to work with…Fin.
Malt: One malt. Pick something nice. Don’t be lazy. I’m choosing a 50:50 blend of Maris otter and Golden promise. Yes, I said 1 malt but since you guys don’t follow along with what I say, I wont either…
Hops: Cabbage, skunk weed, garbage water, garlic chives and dirty ass patchouli smelling are welcome as long as you don’t shate this beer with me. Really. A nice combo of Amarillo of Styrian Goldings would be nice. Fuggles and Pilgrim. Brewers Gold and Chinook. Or even the ones I have listed. Make sure they are fresh, regardless of the twattery that ensures thereafter.
Yeast: London III. Yeah, I’m being lazy. The Courage yeast would be great. Us anything but your standard US Cali ale. Something with a bit of character. Please.
Cask: Standard procedure:
1) let the beer ferment until finished and then give it another day or so. For me right around 5-7 days.
2) Rack the beer to your vessel of choice (firkin, polypin, cornie, whatever).
3) Add primings at ~3.5g/L
4) Add prepared isinglass at 1ml/L
5) ONLY add dry hops at 0.25g/l – 1g/L.
6) Bung it up and roll it around to mix. Condition at 55F or so for 4-5 days and its ready to go. Spile/vent. Tap. Settle. Serve at 55F.
Tuesday, 23 December 2014
Southeast tour
I've thrown together a schedule for my trip to the Southeast USA. Nothing set in stone yet, but it is do-able in a practical sense.
It's based partly on your recommendations, partly on practical considerations, and some random crap. Like being in states I haven't visited yet.
This is my first attempt:
Friday 10th April Houston
Saturday 11th April Houston
Sunday 12th April Birmingham
Monday 13th April Birmingham
Tuesday 14th April Atlanta
Wednesday 15th April Atlanta
Thursday 16th April Tampa
Friday 17th April Tampa
Saturday 18th April Houston
Sunday 19th April fly home
Anyone fancy hosting an event on these dates and at these locations, get in touch.
The point of the trip, naturally, is to educate the beer-drinking public. Not in the slightest to tart my book:
The Home Brewer's Guide to Vintage Beer.
It's based partly on your recommendations, partly on practical considerations, and some random crap. Like being in states I haven't visited yet.
This is my first attempt:
Friday 10th April Houston
Saturday 11th April Houston
Sunday 12th April Birmingham
Monday 13th April Birmingham
Tuesday 14th April Atlanta
Wednesday 15th April Atlanta
Thursday 16th April Tampa
Friday 17th April Tampa
Saturday 18th April Houston
Sunday 19th April fly home
Anyone fancy hosting an event on these dates and at these locations, get in touch.

The Home Brewer's Guide to Vintage Beer.
Breweries! (part nine)
Yehee! Another series finished. I'm finally done with reporting last month's Northwest trip.
This time it's the turn of tiny Foggy Noggin:
As I won't let you forget, I was there flogging my book:
The Home Brewer's Guide to Vintage Beer.
Foggy Noggin Brewing
22329 53rd Ave SE,
Bothell, WA 98021.
Phone: +1 425-486-1070
http://www.foggynogginbrewing.com/
This time it's the turn of tiny Foggy Noggin:

As I won't let you forget, I was there flogging my book:
The Home Brewer's Guide to Vintage Beer.
Foggy Noggin Brewing
22329 53rd Ave SE,
Bothell, WA 98021.
Phone: +1 425-486-1070
http://www.foggynogginbrewing.com/
Monday, 22 December 2014
The South
When I said my Northwestern tour would complete my coverage of the US, some correctly pointed out that this wasn't true as I'd not been anywhere in the Southeast.
I can't say that it's a part of the world I know well. Not at all, really. Weekends in New Orleans and North Carolina a few decades back don't really count for much. Which is why I'm asking for your advice and suggestions.
I'm starting to pencil in a trip, probably in April. Though there's not much even pencilled in so far, other than the start and end point.That will be Miami. Or maybe not. I'd assumed there would be direct flights from Amsterdam. But there aren't. So it looks like it might have to start and end in Houston. Definitely are direct flights to there.
Which four cities in the South would you recommend I include? Places with a decent beer culture and lots of home brewers I can persuade to buy my book. Like I said, I'm pretty ignorant about this part of the USA.
This is what it's all about - promoting my amazing book:
The Home Brewer's Guide to Vintage Beer.
I can't say that it's a part of the world I know well. Not at all, really. Weekends in New Orleans and North Carolina a few decades back don't really count for much. Which is why I'm asking for your advice and suggestions.
I'm starting to pencil in a trip, probably in April. Though there's not much even pencilled in so far, other than the start and end point.
Which four cities in the South would you recommend I include? Places with a decent beer culture and lots of home brewers I can persuade to buy my book. Like I said, I'm pretty ignorant about this part of the USA.

This is what it's all about - promoting my amazing book:
The Home Brewer's Guide to Vintage Beer.
German brewing in 1966 – water
I bet you thought I’d forgotten about this series, based on an article by Narziss in the Journal of the Institute of Brewing. And you’d be perfectly right. I had.
I blame all the travelling I’ve been doing. I only remembered when pulling new material into “Decoction!”. The series came to an abrupt end with a promise of details of brewhouse operations. Looking through past posts I realised that it wasn’t the only unfinished series. I’ll be aiming to fix that over the next month.
The title of the article section refers to the brewhouse, but it kicks off with a discussion of water. Surely that belongs to ingredients rather than brewhouse operations?
That Pilsen has very soft water is well known. And Munich, originally famous for its Dark Lagers, has water high in carbonates. No surprises there.
Here’s a British take on different brewing waters:
And here’s the table that goes with it:
I’m amazed that Melbourne water manages to be a good bit softer than that of Pilsen. No wonder Victoria Bitter tastes so damn good.
Back to Narziss and water treatment:
Not sure I understand how adding calcium softens water. Surely it would harden it? And what the hell is a weak acid exchanger? Never heard of that before.
Now handling more difficult hardness:
I think I understand a few bits of that.
The stuff about very soft water intrigues me, and a perceived lack of body. Particular with regard to Pilsner Urquell. The extra hop dosage I can see there, but I’m sure it doesn’t use malt kilned at a higher temperature.
Adding gypsum is what’s called Burtonisation in Britain, though 15 g. per hl. is quite a small amount. Before WW II the water treatment for Barclay Perkins Pale Ales included the addition of 3.25 oz. of gypsum per barrel – the equivalent of 57 g. per hl.*
I’ll let Briggs explain why nitrates are bad:
Doesn’t sound very nice, does it?
Next time we really will get to actual brewing.
* Barclay Perkins brewing record held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document number ACC/2305/01/612.
I blame all the travelling I’ve been doing. I only remembered when pulling new material into “Decoction!”. The series came to an abrupt end with a promise of details of brewhouse operations. Looking through past posts I realised that it wasn’t the only unfinished series. I’ll be aiming to fix that over the next month.
The title of the article section refers to the brewhouse, but it kicks off with a discussion of water. Surely that belongs to ingredients rather than brewhouse operations?
“Brewhouse and Brewhouse Work
Liquor preparation.—The various types of beer require different liquors. Pilsener beers require a very soft water, and dark beers a medium hard to hard carbonate water. In between these two there are uncountable different types of water, dependent partially upon availability and partially on the working habits of the individual breweries.
Frequently, excessively hard waters are treated. In the case of some magnesium hardness, saturated calcium water is used, Recently, ion exchangers have been used employing a weak acid cation exchanger which removes part of calcium and magnesium hardness.”
Journal of the Institute of Brewing, Volume 72, Issue 1, January-February 1966, page 18.
That Pilsen has very soft water is well known. And Munich, originally famous for its Dark Lagers, has water high in carbonates. No surprises there.
Here’s a British take on different brewing waters:
"Historically, different regions became famous for particular types of beer and in part these beer types were defined by the waters available for brewing (Table 3.1). Thus Pilsen, famous for very pale and delicate lagers has, like Melbourne, very soft water. Burton-on-Trent, with its extremely hard water, rich in calcium sulphate, is famous for its pale ales while Munich is well-known for its dark lagers, and Dublin (which has similar soft water) for its stouts."
"Brewing: science and practice", by Dennis E. Briggs, Chris A. Boulton, Peter A. Brookes and Roger Stevens, 2004, page 53.
And here’s the table that goes with it:
Analyses of some waters from famous brewing centres, (expressed as mg/l). | |||||||||
Parameter | Pilsen | Burton-on-Trent | München (Munich) | Dortmund | London | Wien (Vienna) | Melbourne | ||
Total dry solids | 51 | - | 1226 | 536 | 273 | 984 | 320 | 984 | 25 |
Calcium (Ca2+) | 7.1 | 352 | 268 | 109 | 80 | 237 | 90 | 163 | 1.3 |
Magnesium (Mg2+) | 3.4 | 24 | 62 | 21 | 19 | 26 | 4 | 68 | 0.8 |
Bicarbonate (HCO3-) | 14 | 320 | - | 171 | - | 174 | - | 243 | - |
Carbonate (CO32-) | - | - | 141 | - | 164 | - | 123 | - | 3.6 |
Sulphate (SO42-) | 4.8 | 820 | 638 | 7.9 | 5 | 318 | 58 | 216 | 0.9 |
Nitrate (NO3-) | tr. | 18 | 31 | 53 | 3 | 46 | 3 | tr. | 0.2 |
Chloride (Cl-) | 5 | 16 | 36 | 36 | 1 | 53 | 18 | 39 | 6.5 |
Sodium (Na+) | - | - | 30 | - | 1 | - | 24 | - | 4.5 |
tr. Traces. | |||||||||
- Not given. | |||||||||
Source: | |||||||||
"Brewing: science and practice", by Dennis E. Briggs, Chris A. Boulton, Peter A. Brookes and Roger Stevens, 2004, page 56. |
I’m amazed that Melbourne water manages to be a good bit softer than that of Pilsen. No wonder Victoria Bitter tastes so damn good.
Back to Narziss and water treatment:
“Water which has only limited amounts of non-carbonate hardness can be extensively softened. The carbonic acid freed must be removed by rinsing and subsequent addition of calcium. By varying the intensity of the rinsing, and introducing greater or lesser quantities of calcium-rich water, it is possible to achieve the desired hardness. By addition of slaked lime, pure calcium hardness is introduced into the water. For lightly hopped beers one desires a minimum of residual carbonate hardness of 3-5° otherwise it is feared that the beers may taste rather empty and characterless. For the building of new plants the use of weak acid exchangers is preferred, despite the increase in capital outlay and running costs. The exchange units are smaller and lighter and servicing is simpler, in spite of the need for special measures to de-activate the acidic regeneration waste water.”
Journal of the Institute of Brewing, Volume 72, Issue 1, January-February 1966, page 18.
Not sure I understand how adding calcium softens water. Surely it would harden it? And what the hell is a weak acid exchanger? Never heard of that before.
Now handling more difficult hardness:
“For waters with heavy non-carbonate hardness the so-called strong acid exchange unit is usually chosen. In this case all cations are exchanged, resulting in a water with free mineral acids. Neutralization is with lime water, and as a result the prepared liquor contains only the calcium salts of mineral acids. On the other hand, if nitrates are present in greater quantities than 40 mg. per litre in the brewing liquor then objections from the health authorities can be expected. In this case it is usual for the non-carbonate hardness to be removed by means of anion exchangers, or with water of low chloride content, by means of a chloride exchanger, which will transform the salts of the other mineral acids into chlorides. In practice, it is found necessary to improve the de-salted waters by means of an active carbon filter, in order to give greater plant security. Beers brewed from largely soft liquors are finer but also less full bodied. These characteristics can be compensated by a slight increase in hop dosage and also by the use of malts kilned off at high temperatures. Treatment with up to 15 g. per hl. of gypsum or calcium chloride is frequently used. This is equivalent to 5° of German hardness. Greater quantities are not used, as the effect on beer flavour may be detrimental.
Journal of the Institute of Brewing, Volume 72, Issue 1, January-February 1966, page 18.
I think I understand a few bits of that.
The stuff about very soft water intrigues me, and a perceived lack of body. Particular with regard to Pilsner Urquell. The extra hop dosage I can see there, but I’m sure it doesn’t use malt kilned at a higher temperature.
Adding gypsum is what’s called Burtonisation in Britain, though 15 g. per hl. is quite a small amount. Before WW II the water treatment for Barclay Perkins Pale Ales included the addition of 3.25 oz. of gypsum per barrel – the equivalent of 57 g. per hl.*
I’ll let Briggs explain why nitrates are bad:
"Nitrate levels, which vary widely, are a cause of concern as water sources are increasingly contaminated by nitrate from leached agricultural fertilizers. The fear is that during the preparation of the beer or in the consumer the nitrate may be reduced to nitrite (also limited, Table 3.2) and this, in turn, may give rise to carcinogens."
"Brewing: science and practice", by Dennis E. Briggs, Chris A. Boulton, Peter A. Brookes and Roger Stevens, 2004, page 54.
Doesn’t sound very nice, does it?
Next time we really will get to actual brewing.
* Barclay Perkins brewing record held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document number ACC/2305/01/612.
Sunday, 21 December 2014
Storage of German and English Beer in the 1930’s
Staying with the Wahls, we’re now considering the different storage method employed by British and German brewers.
It stresses the different methods of preserving beer in the two countries. Basically it’s refrigeration versus hopping and alcohol. Sadly, it contains at least one statement which I’m sure is completely wrong.
They’re right about adjuncts, but after WW I rice wasn’t normally used. Too expensive, I think.
Cask British beer is more complicated than he describes. A soft, porous spile is only used for part of the process. Non-porous hard spiles are also used to build condition in the cask. Compared to American beer, I suppose it would seem to have little condition.
But the stuff about secondary conditioning yeast is clearly wrong. For a start, they’ve got the capitalisation wrong: it should be Saccharomyces pastorianus, not saccharomyces Pastorianus. It’s not yeast-like, or wild, but a normal brewer’s yeast. Lager yeast is what it’s usually called. That or Saccharomyces carlsbergensis.
But that’s small beer compared to the assertion that it was responsible for the aged flavour of British Stock Beers. And that it can ferment malto-dextrins. I can’t believe that it was really in pitching strains.
What’s really odd is that they then go on to discuss Brettanomyces:
So the Brettanomyces only kicked in after bottling? I’m certain that’s incorrect. Six months in a cask would have been plenty of time for it to become active.
I’m confused and disappointed by this section. It’s so wrong in a period when the mechanisms of ageing were known.
It stresses the different methods of preserving beer in the two countries. Basically it’s refrigeration versus hopping and alcohol. Sadly, it contains at least one statement which I’m sure is completely wrong.
“Preservation during Storage
The high alcoholic content and heavy hopping have a preservative effect so that these beers keep well during the long storage period. For this reason they were made with a high alcoholic content and highly hopped. Substitutes for some of the malt are generally employed in England; these are sugar, rice and corn products. The draft ales and stouts are but lightly bunged by using porous spiles in storage casks and do not foam much when drawn into the glass. Little regard is had for effervescence or foam stability. They should however be as clear as sparkling wines in this respect.
German lager beers are kept in storage at cellar temperatures of 34 to 35 degrees F. which prevents their spoiling. The beer itself when reaching the stock vat or tank has a temperature of about 40 degrees. The vats are exclusively of wood construction. It requires 4 to 6 weeks for the beer to reach within one degree of the temperature of the cellar. During this period the beers are bunged.
The English stock ales and stouts undergo a brisk secondary fermentation induced by a peculiar yeast-like organism saccharomyces Pastorianus. It takes several months before this fermentation is completed. This wild yeast gives to stock ale its peculiar flavor, and it has the peculiarity of fermenting malto-dextrins —a power not possessed by either the bottom or top pure brewers' yeast. The organism Pastorianus develops the fine flavor for which ales and stouts are known and seems to accompany all top yeast in England. Therefore pure culture yeast has found no favor as secondary fermentation could not set in if it were used.
"Beer from the Expert's Viewpoint" by Arnold Spencer Wahl and Robert Wahl, 1937, page 155.
They’re right about adjuncts, but after WW I rice wasn’t normally used. Too expensive, I think.
Cask British beer is more complicated than he describes. A soft, porous spile is only used for part of the process. Non-porous hard spiles are also used to build condition in the cask. Compared to American beer, I suppose it would seem to have little condition.
But the stuff about secondary conditioning yeast is clearly wrong. For a start, they’ve got the capitalisation wrong: it should be Saccharomyces pastorianus, not saccharomyces Pastorianus. It’s not yeast-like, or wild, but a normal brewer’s yeast. Lager yeast is what it’s usually called. That or Saccharomyces carlsbergensis.
But that’s small beer compared to the assertion that it was responsible for the aged flavour of British Stock Beers. And that it can ferment malto-dextrins. I can’t believe that it was really in pitching strains.
What’s really odd is that they then go on to discuss Brettanomyces:
“Stock and Bottle English Beers
After secondary fermentation is concluded the stock beers both ale and stout are stored for 4 to 6 months in casks after which they may be bottled. Then in the bottle a third fermentation sets in, which, according to Chapman was thought for a long time to be due to the same wild yeast that carries on secondary fermentation but it has been shown (first by Claussen) that certain organisms belonging to the group of Torula which he named Brettanomyces are in reality the active agents. These are closely allied to the true Saccharomyces in which they differ chiefly in their inability to form ascospores. Chapman says "It is highly probable that the characteristic flavor of certain bottle beers (English unpasteurized ales) is to some extent the result of their activity."
"Beer from the Expert's Viewpoint" by Arnold Spencer Wahl and Robert Wahl, 1937, page 156.
So the Brettanomyces only kicked in after bottling? I’m certain that’s incorrect. Six months in a cask would have been plenty of time for it to become active.
I’m confused and disappointed by this section. It’s so wrong in a period when the mechanisms of ageing were known.
Saturday, 20 December 2014
Pilsener and WW I (part four)
Silly me. I’d forgotten I’d collected more on Pilsener in WW I. Blame all my recent travelling.
A couple of times recently someone has made a remark about my post that day. I have to confess that I hadn’t the foggiest idea what the post was about. Once, even when the subject was mentioned, I could recall no details. Am I that forgetful?
No. The explanation is simple. I line my posts up well in advance. I try to be always at least three days ahead. But when I know I’ll be travelling, I bump that up to a week or two. Or, in extreme cases like my near back-to-back US trips in November, as much as three or four weeks. Back to the real topic.
An article I read recently – or was it on TV? – made a really good point about attacks on merchant shipping in WW I. While German U-boats might have sunk a considerable amount of Allied shipping in 1917 and briefly threatened Britain’s food supply, the situation for Germany was far, far worse. By 1915 its merchant fleet had disappeared from the seas completely.
The supply of beer and its constituent raw materials might have been bad in Britain in 1917 and 1918, but the situation was much worse, and sooner, in Germany.
That’s a massive drop in beer output. Though it’s safe to assume that the decline in the amount of beer brewed was smaller because, as in Britain, gravities were lowered. Meaning a greater quantity of beer was brewed from the same amount of materials.
I’ll recap an earlier table for comparison purposes:
Standard barrels is what you need to look at as that relates directly to the quantity of materials being used. Even by 1917, that had fallen by just over 25%, compared to a 75% drop in Germany by 1916.
As you can see, the reduction in raw materials did eventually hit German levels, but not until 1919. Though drastic gravity cuts meant that bulk beer production only fell to a little under 50% of the pre-war level.
Food Dictator sounds like a pretty crazy office, though effectively the Food Controller, filled the same role. His Thomas the Tank Engine name is somehow less frightening.
I can understand why the publicans were complaining in Berlin. Their livelihoods were under direct threat. In Britain the situation was more complex. On the one hand, they had less beer to sell. On the other, price increases meant that by keeping the same margin of profit, their income could increase. And restrictions on pub opening hours drastically reduced their working day and the amount they paid bar staff. Only in areas where the men had all been called away by the war did publicans really suffer.
Considering beer as food is a very Bavarian attitude. Presumably that meant there was some sort of priority given to its supply. Meaning there was none left over to send North to the thirsty Prussians.
I’m sure I’m not done with this theme yet. As long as I remember I’m not done.
A couple of times recently someone has made a remark about my post that day. I have to confess that I hadn’t the foggiest idea what the post was about. Once, even when the subject was mentioned, I could recall no details. Am I that forgetful?
No. The explanation is simple. I line my posts up well in advance. I try to be always at least three days ahead. But when I know I’ll be travelling, I bump that up to a week or two. Or, in extreme cases like my near back-to-back US trips in November, as much as three or four weeks. Back to the real topic.
An article I read recently – or was it on TV? – made a really good point about attacks on merchant shipping in WW I. While German U-boats might have sunk a considerable amount of Allied shipping in 1917 and briefly threatened Britain’s food supply, the situation for Germany was far, far worse. By 1915 its merchant fleet had disappeared from the seas completely.
The supply of beer and its constituent raw materials might have been bad in Britain in 1917 and 1918, but the situation was much worse, and sooner, in Germany.
“BEER CRISIS IN PRUSSIA.
All the North German associations of hotelkeepers, licensed victuallers, owners of concert and dancing rooms, and so on, have addressed to the Food Dictator, Herr von Batocki, an urgent appeal against further restrictions, which are now imminent, of the production of beer. It is understood that the authorised supply of barley to the breweries, which has already been reduced one-half, is now to reduced to one-fourth of the peace figures.
The petitioners make the interesting statement that the Prussian Army takes 11 per cent of the peace-time consumption, so that there would remain for the Prussian public only 14 per cent of the peace-time consumption. It is complained that in Bavaria beer is privileged as "an article of food," and that such differentiation will cause great bitterness in North Germany. It is declared that the petitioners have suffered more than any other class owing partly to the various restrictions on amusements, but still more to the fact that "meat, eggs, butter, fats, coffee, milk, tea and now spirits can hardly be obtained.
The "Berliner Tageblatt" observes that there are 16,000 restaurants Berlin alone, and that a great part them are already hardly able to exist. It is expected that the supply of Munich beer for North Germany will cease and Pilsen beer is very scarce.”
Manchester Evening News - Friday 17 November 1916, page 4.
That’s a massive drop in beer output. Though it’s safe to assume that the decline in the amount of beer brewed was smaller because, as in Britain, gravities were lowered. Meaning a greater quantity of beer was brewed from the same amount of materials.
I’ll recap an earlier table for comparison purposes:
Drop in UK beer output | ||
period | standard barrels | bulk barrels |
1914 to 1916 | 15.99% | 14.51% |
1914 to 1917 | 26.16% | 19.69% |
1914 to 1918 | 67.20% | 53.18% |
1914 to 1919 | 76.37% | 44.52% |
Source: | ||
The Brewers' Almanack 1928 pages 100 and 110. |
Standard barrels is what you need to look at as that relates directly to the quantity of materials being used. Even by 1917, that had fallen by just over 25%, compared to a 75% drop in Germany by 1916.
As you can see, the reduction in raw materials did eventually hit German levels, but not until 1919. Though drastic gravity cuts meant that bulk beer production only fell to a little under 50% of the pre-war level.
Food Dictator sounds like a pretty crazy office, though effectively the Food Controller, filled the same role. His Thomas the Tank Engine name is somehow less frightening.
I can understand why the publicans were complaining in Berlin. Their livelihoods were under direct threat. In Britain the situation was more complex. On the one hand, they had less beer to sell. On the other, price increases meant that by keeping the same margin of profit, their income could increase. And restrictions on pub opening hours drastically reduced their working day and the amount they paid bar staff. Only in areas where the men had all been called away by the war did publicans really suffer.
Considering beer as food is a very Bavarian attitude. Presumably that meant there was some sort of priority given to its supply. Meaning there was none left over to send North to the thirsty Prussians.
I’m sure I’m not done with this theme yet. As long as I remember I’m not done.
Friday, 19 December 2014
Kerstbierfestival
It's that time of year again. Just before Santa is due to call, comes my annual pilgrimage to Essen for the Kerstbierfestival.
I love the Kerstbierfestival. One of my absulute favourites. Not too much time wasted trudging around a hall to fetch beer - the one bar design is a great idea for the old and slightly infirm such as I. A reasonable number of seats - a great idea for the old and slightly infirm such as I.And they have all the Belgian winter seasonals in one convenient spot - a great idea for the old and slightly infirm such as I.
Give me a yell if you spot me there tomorrow. There's no prize, other than have me slobber over your jacket. Not really a prize that, is it?
As Dolores is coming along, I may even remember some of the event this year. She tends to make sure we leave at a sensible time.
I love the Kerstbierfestival. One of my absulute favourites. Not too much time wasted trudging around a hall to fetch beer - the one bar design is a great idea for the old and slightly infirm such as I. A reasonable number of seats - a great idea for the old and slightly infirm such as I.And they have all the Belgian winter seasonals in one convenient spot - a great idea for the old and slightly infirm such as I.
Give me a yell if you spot me there tomorrow. There's no prize, other than have me slobber over your jacket. Not really a prize that, is it?
As Dolores is coming along, I may even remember some of the event this year. She tends to make sure we leave at a sensible time.
European beers in 1929
Not much this time. Just a table of analyses.
It's in the Wahls' book, but they had borrowed them from someone else:
"Composition of various European beers, according to Prof. Dr. H. Luers, Munich, in "Grafe Handbuch Der Organischen Warenkunde", Volume III, 1929."
It's mostly Bavarian breweries, speiced with a few exotics from Prague and Britain:
I've no idea what that Barclay Perkins beer is. Obviously some sort of Stout. But it doesn't match any they brewed in the 1920's: BBS Ex had an OG of 1079º and IBS Ex 1103º*. I suspect the analysis is really from before WW I.
The Bass Pale Ale has an OG that looks right for the export version, but the FG looks far too high. Don't quite understand that one.
Moving on to the Munich beers, they still have the high OG and poor attenuation of the 19th century.
The Kulmbcher has a surprisingly high gravity - though didn't we just read something saying it had a bock-like OG? - and reasonable attenuation leaving quite an alcoholic beer.
The Pilseners look . . . very much like modern Pilsner Urquell in terms of OG and ABV. It seems a very unchaging beer in terms of strength. More so than any other individual beer I can think of.
Told you there wasn't much this time. That's it.
* Barclay Perkins brewing record held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document number ACC/2305/01/614.
It's in the Wahls' book, but they had borrowed them from someone else:
"Composition of various European beers, according to Prof. Dr. H. Luers, Munich, in "Grafe Handbuch Der Organischen Warenkunde", Volume III, 1929."
It's mostly Bavarian breweries, speiced with a few exotics from Prague and Britain:
European beers in 1929 | |||||||||
Year | Brewer | Town | country | Beer | OG | FG | ABV | App. Atten-uation | OG Plato |
1929 | Pschorr | Munich | Germany | Dunkles | 1054.26 | 1019.2 | 4.53 | 64.61% | 13.43 |
1929 | Hofbrau | Munich | Germany | Dunkles | 1057.58 | 1020.2 | 4.75 | 64.92% | 14.21 |
1929 | Weihenstephan | Freising | Germany | Dunkles | 1057.16 | 1017.2 | 5.16 | 69.91% | 14.11 |
1929 | Spaten | Munich | Germany | Dunkles | 1053.83 | 1021.4 | 4.19 | 60.25% | 13.33 |
1929 | Tucher | Nuernberg | Germany | Dunkles | 1053.45 | 1017.8 | 4.59 | 66.70% | 13.24 |
1929 | Kulmbacher Sandlerbraeu | Kulmbach | Germany | Dunkles | 1062.61 | 1015.8 | 6.05 | 74.76% | 15.38 |
1929 | Dortmunder Union | Dortmund | Germany | Export | 1055.15 | 1012 | 5.55 | 78.24% | 13.64 |
1929 | Schultheiss brauerei | Berlin | Germany | Maerzenbler | 1053.75 | 1012.3 | 5.09 | 77.12% | 13.31 |
1929 | Erste Pilsener Actienbrauerei | Pilsen | Czech Republic | Pilsener | 1046.99 | 1011.6 | 4.56 | 75.32% | 11.71 |
1929 | Burgerliches Brauhaus | Pilsen | Czech Republic | Pilsener Urquell | 1048.17 | 1013.4 | 4.51 | 72.18% | 11.99 |
1929 | Dreher | Kleinschwechat | Austria | Wiener Maerzenbier | 1058.95 | 1016.9 | 5.44 | 71.33% | 14.53 |
1929 | Unknown | Berlin | Germany | Berliner Weissbier | 1036.68 | 1007.1 | 3.84 | 80.64% | 9.23 |
1929 | Barclay Perkins | London | UK | Porter | 1087.61 | 1022.9 | 8.40 | 73.86% | 21.06 |
1929 | Bass | Burton | UK | Pale Ale | 1060.80 | 1018.8 | 6.28 | 69.08% | 14.96 |
Source: | |||||||||
Beer from the Expert's Viewpoint by Arnold Spencer Wahl and Robert Wahl, 1937, page 166. |
I've no idea what that Barclay Perkins beer is. Obviously some sort of Stout. But it doesn't match any they brewed in the 1920's: BBS Ex had an OG of 1079º and IBS Ex 1103º*. I suspect the analysis is really from before WW I.
The Bass Pale Ale has an OG that looks right for the export version, but the FG looks far too high. Don't quite understand that one.
Moving on to the Munich beers, they still have the high OG and poor attenuation of the 19th century.
The Kulmbcher has a surprisingly high gravity - though didn't we just read something saying it had a bock-like OG? - and reasonable attenuation leaving quite an alcoholic beer.
The Pilseners look . . . very much like modern Pilsner Urquell in terms of OG and ABV. It seems a very unchaging beer in terms of strength. More so than any other individual beer I can think of.
Told you there wasn't much this time. That's it.
* Barclay Perkins brewing record held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document number ACC/2305/01/614.
Labels:
1920s,
Anton Dreher,
barclay perkins,
Bavaria,
Berlin,
Berliner Weisse,
Czech Republic,
Dortmunder,
Dunkles,
Export,
Germany,
IPA,
London,
Märzen,
Münchener,
Munich,
Pilsener,
Porter,
Stout,
Vienna
Thursday, 18 December 2014
German and English Beer Types Compared in the 1930’s
In case you hadn’t guessed, this is more from the Wahls. Where they compare British top-fermenting beer with German bottom-fermenting beer.
I love this sort of stuff. These were the two main families of beer at the time. Still are today, really. And the USA was one of the few places in the world where they were both brewed in large quantities.
But first a quick overview of each group:
It’s one of the few times I’ve ever seen cleansing mentioned in an American document. It seems to have been dropped very early in US Ale-brewing. Having seen how much of a head bottom-fermenting yeast throws, cleansing probably wouldn’t be out of order in Lager-brewing, too. Though I suppose lagering and filtering took care of yeast removal.
Now some more detail:
Again, I think the Wahls were discussing British beer from before WW I. Not many British beers were being brewed in Stock form in the 1930’s. Just a few very special Strong Ales and Stouts. Everyday Stouts were not aged before sale and weren’t particularly high in alcohol.
Here are Barclay Perkins beers as proof:
I’ve used Barclay Perkins and not Whitbread for a reason: the former includes dry-hopping details and the latter doesn’t. I believe only these six were aged: IBS Ex, BBS Ex, BS Exp, KK bottling, KKKK and PA export. Unsurprisingly, they also have the highest level of dry-hopping.
You can see that Stock Stouts were both very heavily hopped in the kettle and dry-hopped, despite the claim of the Wahls. Though running Stouts were, indeed, without dry hops. Most of Barclay Perkins Stock Beers had considerably more than two pounds of hops per barrel. As the Wahls are probably talking in US barrels, which are smaller than imperial ones, you need to knock about 25% off the value in the tables. Which still leaves most of the examples way over 2 lbs per barrel.
Next time we’ll be looking at storage of British and German beers. Where I think there’s a huge howler in the Wahls’ text.
I love this sort of stuff. These were the two main families of beer at the time. Still are today, really. And the USA was one of the few places in the world where they were both brewed in large quantities.
But first a quick overview of each group:
“The continental lager beers are termed bottom fermentation beers because the yeast settles to the bottom of the fermenting vat while the English beers are termed top fermentation beers because the yeast works to the top where it is removed by skimming. This skimming is generally done with the aid of what is called a parachute, a funnel that can be rotated, raised or lowered with a pipe connection extending through bottom of open vat through which the yeast passes into the yeast vat. Another method is by cleansing, that is, the yeast is allowed to work out of the bung hole at the top of the cask. In the case of unions holding usually about four American barrels they are provided with a curved tube, a so-called swan neck. Through these the yeast works from the bung hole into a common trough running along the upper side of the casks.”
"Beer from the Expert's Viewpoint" by Arnold Spencer Wahl and Robert Wahl, 1937, pages 155 - 156.
It’s one of the few times I’ve ever seen cleansing mentioned in an American document. It seems to have been dropped very early in US Ale-brewing. Having seen how much of a head bottom-fermenting yeast throws, cleansing probably wouldn’t be out of order in Lager-brewing, too. Though I suppose lagering and filtering took care of yeast removal.
Now some more detail:
“German and English Beer Types Compared
German beers are all of the so-called lager beer type undergoing cold storage in artificially cooled cellars whereas the English beers, like ale, porter, stout, are produced without any refrigeration of cellars whatever. They are either put out directly after fermentation as are the mild "1 day ales and porters" of London or are stored for a considerable period in casks as are the stock ales and stouts which are heavily brewed for high sugar content in the wort and are consequently highly alcoholic and heavily hopped. Two pounds of hops are brewed in per barrel for stock ale; besides, these stock ales are further dry-hopped in the storage tanks. The stouts are heavily hopped in brewing but are not dry-hopped.”
"Beer from the Expert's Viewpoint" by Arnold Spencer Wahl and Robert Wahl, 1937, pages 154 - 155.
Again, I think the Wahls were discussing British beer from before WW I. Not many British beers were being brewed in Stock form in the 1930’s. Just a few very special Strong Ales and Stouts. Everyday Stouts were not aged before sale and weren’t particularly high in alcohol.
Here are Barclay Perkins beers as proof:
Barclay Perkins Ales 1928 - 1931 | ||||||||||
Year | Beer | Style | OG | FG | ABV | App. Atten-uation | lbs hops/ qtr | hops lb/brl | dry hops (oz / barrel) | colour |
1928 | Ale 4d | Mild | 1028.8 | 1006.5 | 2.95 | 77.43% | 7.43 | 0.90 | 34 | |
1928 | X | Mild | 1042.9 | 1011.0 | 4.22 | 74.35% | 5.50 | 0.94 | 42 | |
1929 | DB | Brown Ale | 1040.6 | 1009.0 | 4.18 | 77.82% | 7.50 | 1.20 | ||
1928 | IPA bottling | IPA | 1045.8 | 1012.0 | 4.47 | 73.80% | 8.00 | 1.44 | 3.00 | 15 |
1928 | PA | Pale Ale | 1052.7 | 1013.0 | 5.25 | 75.32% | 6.49 | 1.36 | 3.00 | 20 |
1931 | PA (trade) | Pale Ale | 1052.6 | 1014.5 | 5.04 | 72.43% | 7.50 | 1.57 | 3.00 | 23 |
1929 | PA export | Pale Ale | 1058.9 | 1017.0 | 5.55 | 71.15% | 8.89 | 2.00 | 4.00 | 21 |
1931 | XLK | Pale Ale | 1044.6 | 1008.5 | 4.78 | 80.95% | 8.00 | 1.47 | 3.00 | 22 |
1931 | KK | Strong Ale | 1055.7 | 1014.0 | 5.52 | 74.86% | 9.00 | 1.98 | 3.00 | 88 |
1928 | KK bottling | Strong Ale | 1069.4 | 1021.5 | 6.34 | 69.04% | 11.00 | 2.99 | 8.00 | 96 |
1928 | KKKK | Strong Ale | 1079.0 | 1024.0 | 7.27 | 69.61% | 11.00 | 3.44 | 4.00 | 120 |
Source: | ||||||||||
Barclay Perkins brewing record held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document number ACC/2305/01/614. |
Barclay Perkins Porters 1928 - 1929 | ||||||||||
Year | Beer | Style | OG | FG | ABV | App. Atten-uation | lbs hops/ qtr | hops lb/brl | dry hops (oz / barrel) | colour |
1929 | TT | Porter | 1033.0 | 1012.0 | 2.77 | 63.58% | 6.00 | 0.81 | 240 | |
1929 | IBS | Stout | 1060.7 | 1022.5 | 5.05 | 62.93% | 8.00 | 1.95 | 290 | |
1928 | OMS | Stout | 1050.9 | 1017.0 | 4.48 | 66.57% | 6.50 | 1.36 | 220 | |
1928 | RNS | Stout | 1054.5 | 1017.5 | 4.90 | 67.91% | 8.00 | 1.80 | 320 | |
1929 | SBS | Stout | 1054.7 | 1019.0 | 4.72 | 65.24% | 7.50 | 1.68 | 260 | |
1928 | IBS Ex | Stout | 1102.8 | 1042.0 | 8.05 | 59.16% | 14.19 | 6.75 | 10.66 | 680 |
1928 | BBS Ex | Stout | 1080.0 | 1027.5 | 6.94 | 65.62% | 15.00 | 5.15 | 8.00 | 320 |
1928 | BS Exp | Stout | 1071.6 | 1022.0 | 6.56 | 69.27% | 14.00 | 4.29 | 8.00 | 240 |
Source: | ||||||||||
Barclay Perkins brewing record held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document number ACC/2305/01/614. |
I’ve used Barclay Perkins and not Whitbread for a reason: the former includes dry-hopping details and the latter doesn’t. I believe only these six were aged: IBS Ex, BBS Ex, BS Exp, KK bottling, KKKK and PA export. Unsurprisingly, they also have the highest level of dry-hopping.
You can see that Stock Stouts were both very heavily hopped in the kettle and dry-hopped, despite the claim of the Wahls. Though running Stouts were, indeed, without dry hops. Most of Barclay Perkins Stock Beers had considerably more than two pounds of hops per barrel. As the Wahls are probably talking in US barrels, which are smaller than imperial ones, you need to knock about 25% off the value in the tables. Which still leaves most of the examples way over 2 lbs per barrel.
Next time we’ll be looking at storage of British and German beers. Where I think there’s a huge howler in the Wahls’ text.
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