Saturday, 24 November 2012

Licensed grocers and opening hours

I've been waiting to post this for ages. My intention was to chop the article up into digestible chunks, spiced with pithy and aposite comments from me. But I never quite got around to it.

Not that I really have today. I've just chopped it in half. I'm having arsing issues with anotating it properly for you. Just a few simple comments will have to suffice.

The theme of the article is the new licensing legislation after WW I, which made permanent most of the wartime restrictions on pub opening times and the permitted hours of off-licenses. There was a particular problem with the way the off trade operated in Scotland. Many off sales were through grocers, who delivered alcoholic drinks along with groceries. The tricky point was what constituted a sale? Was placing an order for later delivery a sale? And could alcohol be delivered outside licensing hours?

"Scottish Decisions.
The Royal Commission on Licensing (Scotland) in paragraph 210 of their Report, pointed out that "From the earliest times the licensed grocer has occupied a istinctive place in the licensing system of Scotland, and his business has always been recognised as a separate and distinct branch of the Trade particularly suited to the needs of the people." They added that: "There was little support before us for a policy of substituting for the licensed grocer a form of trade which may be called the off-licence pure and simple, that is to say, trade carried on by one who is not a victualler, but keeps a shop for the off-sale of excisable liquors only," The practice of placing orders for liquor for delivery together with other commodities is in Scotland widespread, and it is clear if the acceptance of orders for a particular class of goods and the dispatch of the goods in satisfaction of the order are restricted to a limited period during the day that the business of the licensed grocer will be seriously hampered. The Scottish Courts have, however, taken the view that the Licensing Act. 1921. does impose such a restriction, and their decision was mentioned with approval in the "bottle party" case and its reasoning was followed.

In 1930 the High Court of Justiciary considered the matter on a case stated by a magistrate (Valentine v. Bell 1930, J.C. 51). The appellant, a licensed grocer, had been convicted of selling liquor outside the permitted hours, and it appeared that two customers had entered  his shop at 1 p.m., the period of permitted hours having terminated at 11.30 a.m., and had ordered and paid for supplies of liquor. The grocer put up the liquor and handed it, with the relative invoices, to his messenger-boy, instructing him to deliver the parcels at the purchasers' addresses. The boy was relieved of the liquor by the purchaser in each inscance, in the first at a distance of 15 yards and in the second at a distance of 30 yards from the grocer's premises. The Court upheld the conviction, but there was some divergence of view on the part of the judges as to the grounds of the decision. Lord Hunter thought that, in fact, the goods were handed directly to the customer. The licence-holder went through what his Lordship could only regard as the farce of getting a message-boy to carry the liquor a distance of a few yards. Lord Anderson was also of opinion that the liquor was delivered to the customers in the premises, for he regarded the message-boy as being the agent of the purchasers and not of the vendor, "The whole circumstances of the case," said Lord Hunter, "are such that while the licence-holder may have thought he was not committing an offence under the Act, it is clear that what he did was a scheme to evade the Act."

The Lord Justice Clerk  (Lord Alness) was not content to rest his judgment upon the circumstances of the particular case, and the fact that the ordering and dispatch of the liquor were a mere pretence. He pointed out that Section 4 of the Licensing Act, 1921, prohibits the sale in licensed premises of intoxicating liquor to be consumed on or off the premises, except during the permitted hours, and continued : "At the outset it occurs to one to say that it would be absurd in one section to prohibit a sale and in the next section to permit it. Nothing so contrary to good sense and reason has, I apprehend, been enacted by the Legislature. Section 5 (b) permits not a sale but ordering, and ordering, I think, is something quite different from a sale. The section permits what in England has been termed 'an agreement to sell/ but still, in my judgment, sale remains prohibited under Section 4, Section 5 permits an order to be given for liquor during prohibited   hours,   but   the   word   1 ordering 9 appears to have been carefully chosen by the Legislature. It is in marked contrast to the word sale which is used in Section 5. A grocer may take an order within the prohibited hours, but may not, as I read it, take the order and complete the sale within those hours."

In the case of Sinclair v. Beattie (1934). S.L.T.40, a customer entered the shop of Beattie, a licensed grocer, at 9.45 a.m. and gave an order for half-a-dozen eggs, half a gill of whisky and three bottles of beer, for which she paid. Beattie's messenger conveying the goods to the customer's address, was stopped by the police in the street at 9.55 a.m. The magistrate held that the facts disclosed no offence and did not convict. When the case came before the High Court of Justiciary the majority held that there should have been a conviction. Lork Blackburn held that a verbal order for a supply of liquor, coupled with immediate payment, was a completed sale, and therefore, following the reasoning of Lord Alness in Valentine v. Bell, a contravention Of the Act. Lord Morison took the same view ; but it is not quite clear that he regarded payment as essential and there are passages in his judgment which suggest that an agreement to sell would be an offence irrespective of immediate payment. Lord Clyde, the Lord Justice General, dissented, and held that there was no offence. His view was that the Act prohibits an act of sale or supply completed in the licensed premises, and he held that the acceptance of an order and the dispatch of the goods in implement thereof was not such an act. " I do not believe," he said, " that the Act of 1921 was intended to prevent a wine merchant from accepting in his licensed premises a customer's order for a bottle or bottles of wine given outwith the permitted hours (whether the customer passes his cheque for the price at the time or whether the wine merchant gives him the usual credit), or from dispatching the wine so ordered to his customer's house outwith those hours."
Brewers' Journal 1934, pages 249 - 250.

You can see class issues rasing their ugly head again here. Who would place orders at a wine merchant? Not miners or dockers. Posh bastards. Obviously you wouldn't want to incovenience them with legislation primarily aimed at keeping drink out of the hands of the working classes. That's probably why the judges had so much trouble agreeing. Some didn't want to inconvenience people like themselves.

Next time we'll be looking at a criticism of these decisions.

Friday, 23 November 2012

Grätzer lives!

Finally. I finally got to try Grätzer. A proper one brewed from the right malt, hops and yeast. I wasn't disappointed.

Last night was the launch of the Grätzer and Grodziskie I've been involved with. It all hapeened remarkably quickly, this project that's so dear to me. It's just a few months ago that the idea of brewing an historic beer together popped up at a chance meeting in Bierkoning between me, Michiel (of Jopen) and Sebastian (of Freigeist and Monarchy of Musselland). And now here they are. Real living, frothing beers.

I couldn't be more happy with them. The Grätzer combines smoke and hop in just the way the old texts describe. Light and refreshing, but full-flavoured, too. A knockout session beer that you can drink and drink and drink. You'd never think it was just 3.3% ABV from the taste. The Grodziskie is ismilar, but the willow bark somehow cancels out part of the smoke, making it seem hoppier. But another great slurper.

 The launch in Wildeman yesterday was a lot of fun. Especially the drinking bit. Lots of familiar faces showed up. I even got a round of applause for my talk, all 6 minutes of it. Yes, just 6 minutes. That's uncustomarily brief for me. (Anything under an hour is brief. I'm very hard to stop, once I get going.)

You'll have to be quick if you want to try them. There wasn't a great deal brewed and all of it has already been sold to shops and distributors. Wildeman currently has both on tap, but I've no idea how long they will last.






Disclosure time. Obviously, as I was involved in the making of this beer, I have an interest in it. I had a few free beers at the launch; one free beer and a hamburger at Jopen when it was brewed. 

Thursday, 22 November 2012

Let's Brew special - 1859 Barclay Perkins EI

My apologies for posting just the brewing record of a Barclay Perkins EI. It made me realise that I hadn't ever posted a recipe for EI. Time to put that right.

As this is a spontaneous and unscheduled Let's Brew, you're going to have to put up with my crappy recipe. No time to call in Kristen.

EI stands for Export India. This is the Porter that Barclay Perkins produced for the Indian market. It's the Porter equivalent of IPA. As I keep reminding anyone who will listen, there was probably more Porter exported to India than Pale Ale. But for some reason that seems to have been forgotten, with everyone focusing competely on IPA. It's most likely a class thing, IPA having been drunk by officers and officials, Porter by the ordinary soldiers.

This beer had legs. Most likely it had its origins in the 19th century. The first one I've found is from 1805 and the last 1910. That last date is long after IPA had finished making the long journey east.

The recipe is pretty much what you would expect: a standard-strength Porter with a shitload of hops. Hang on. I think I feel a table coming on.


Barclay Perkins Porters and Stouts in 1859
Date Year Beer Style OG OG FG FG ABV App. Atten-uation lbs hops/ qtr hops lb/brl Pitch temp
14th Oct 1859 TT Porter 21.7 1060.1 6.1 1017.0 5.70 71.72% 16.79 4.06 68º
19th Oct 1859 Hhd Porter 22.5 1062.3 6.0 1016.5 6.06 73.53% 18.43 4.03 68º
7th Oct 1859 FS Expt Stout 23.2 1064.3 6.0 1016.5 6.32 74.32% 17.88 4.66 66.5º
10th Nov 1859 EI Porter 23.3 1064.5 6.0 1016.5 6.36 74.43% 20.15 4.93 68º
5th Oct 1859 BS Stout 33.4 1092.5 10.3 1028.5 8.47 69.20% 16.17 8.15 60.5º
21st Oct 1859 BS PV Stout 33.9 1093.9 10.5 1029.0 8.59 69.12% 14.31 7.41 58.5º
9th Nov 1859 BS K Stout 34 1094.2 10.1 1028.0 8.76 70.27% 19.93 9.40 58º
2nd Nov 1859 BS ex Stout 34.4 1095.3 10.5 1029.0 8.77 69.57% 19.31 8.82 59º
25th Oct 1859 IBS Stout 38 1105.3 11.9 1033.0 9.56 68.65% 15.19 9.60 57º
Source:
Barclay Perkins brewing record held at the London Metropolitan Archives document number ACC/2305/1/544.

Mmmm. Every one of those beers is hopped like crazy. 19 or 20 pounds per quarter is IPA level. That really is insane. I wouldn't like to guess about the IBU's. Probably as many as you can cram into a beer.







Just a quick post. That's me done. Time to hand you over to  . . . . me . . . . .








10th November 1859 Barclay Perkins EI
malt type pounds %
pale malt HP 4.25 41.06%
pale malt SP 3.25 31.40%
brown malt HB 2 19.32%
amber malt HA 0.5 4.83%
black malt 0.35 3.38%
total 10.35 100.00%
gallons water temp init. Temp mashed (mins) tap temp.
mash 1 2.5 156 146
mash 2 1.75 179 162
mash 3 2.25 156 158
total 6.5
type year oz.

MK 1859 11

total 11

start of boil 6 oz


after 60 mins 2.5 oz


after 90 mins 2.5 oz


boil time (hours) 2


dry hops 1 oz


pitching temp (ºF) 68


gravity (OG) 1065


gravity (FG) 1016.5


ABV 6.42


apparent attenuation 74.62%


Source:
Barclay Perkins brewing record held at the London Metropolitan Archives document number ACC/2305/1/544.


Wednesday, 21 November 2012

Publicans moaning again

This time it isn't the increase in tax that they're moaning about, it's competition from an army canteen.

I can see their point. Soldiers are banned from going into pubs in the evening and at the same time the army opens effectively its own pub. With publicans already worried about the loss of trade caused by the 50% increase in the price of a pint, losing a reliable thirsty bunch like soldiers must have been a blow.

"DUNDEE PUBLICANS ARE AGGRIEVED THAT AUTHORITIES, AFTER ORDERING RESTRICTIONS, SHOULD OPEN REGIMENTAL CANTEEN.
Dundee publicans consider that they have grievance in regard the restrictions. The latest regulation imposed upon them was that after six o'clock no man in uniform could be supplied with intoxicating liquor of any kind, the publichouse being, as the phrase has it, "out of bounds."

Synchronising with that scheme, a canteen was opened in connection with one of the Territorial regiments in Dundee. By the opening of this canteen the men in uniform have, according to the "trade," just as good facilities for taking liquor as they had with the free run of the public-houses. Under military regulations men of rank under sergeant can have beer from 12.30 till 1.30, and from 6 p.m. till 9.30. Sergeants and other non-commissioned officers have special canteen of their own, and can have beer, spirits, &c., from 6 a.m. till 11 p.m. They have also the right to introduce friends, on the understanding that the latter do not pay.

Inquiry shows, however, that these canteens are carried on with great care and apparently not with a view to securing great profit from the drink consumed. The intention of the authorities is that when drink is indulged it should be of a most moderate supply, and particular care is taken that no drink is sold to man who shows the slightest tendency towards being affected. The supervision is very strict, and is in the hands of non-commissioned officers."
Dundee Courier - Thursday 24 December 1914, page 6.  
I can't help thinking that assuming the canteen would be run strictly because NCOs were in charge is a bit naive. Being in an army camp, it wasn't as if anyone could see what was going on there.

Had I been unlucky enough to be in the army in 1914, I'd have been shovelling as much booze down my neck as I could. You didn't know how much longer you'd have a neck to throw drink down.

What beer did they drink in army canteens? I know that beer was specially brewed for the military in WW I. I also know that Scottish breweries were the main suppliers of the British armed forces. So it was probably Scottish beer the squaddies were drinking in the Dundee canteen.

Tuesday, 20 November 2012

Firefly

"See what someone's written here, Andrew. That Porter and Stout were exported to cold, northern countries and IPA to hot, tropical ones."

"And?"

"It's bollocks. They exported stacks of Porter to India. And Stout to the West Indies. That and Strong Scottish beer. Even that wasn't strong enough for the planters. They'd throw in a shot of rum."

"We've Guinness and Havana Club. Why don't you try it?"

"You know something, Andrew? That's not a bad idea. I'm not that keen on the Havana Club straight."

"What's it like, dad?"

"Try it yourself."

"It's like Guinness. You can hardly taste the rum at all."

"I know. Great isn't it? Almost no rum flavour, but all the fally-over goodness."

"What's it called, dad?"

"No idea. What about Ruinness?"

"Sounds like a toilet-related illness."

"Stoum?"

"That sounds like a lumpier form of the last stuff."

"I know. Firefly."

X Ales in the 1860's

Looking at X Ales from the 1830's was so much fun, I've decided to revisit the topic. Except this time I'm also including provincial X Ales. I would have done the same for the 1830's except I have bugger all records from outside London for that period. That's OK. I'm making up for it now.

If you can remember as far back as the 1830's, you'll see that the gravities had fallen in the intervening 30 years. That's no surprise. The 1830's were the high point. It's been all downhill for Mild gravities ever since.

What should be immediately apparent is the disappearance of some of the high-gravity X Ales. The XXX Ales have all disappeared and some of the XXX Ales. On the other hand, both Whitbread and Truman had introduced an intermediate beer between X Ale and XX Ale. XL in the case of Whitbread, 40/- Ale in the case of Truman. I assume that the L in XL stands for London. That's usually what it meant. 40/- Ale's name is pretty easy to explain: it's the price per barrel. (Those who think the shilling system of designation was purely Scottish, please take note.)

Surprisingly, the hopping rates had increased averaging around 10 pounds per quarter compared to about 8 in the 1830's. I've absolutely no idea how to explain this. It could be connected with a change in the source of hops. There had been a revolution in hop supplies in the intervening decades. with foreign hops, especially American ones, becoming very common. In the 1830's the hops had been all English. The increased hopping rate could reflect these imported hops being of lower quality.

Attenuation had edged up a tad, and averaged closer to 70% than the former 65%. Though I'm not sure that the change is big enough to be really significant.


London X Ales in the 1860's
Date Year Brewer Beer OG FG ABV App. Attenuation lbs hops/ qtr hops lb/brl boil time (hours) boil time (hours) boil time (hours) Pitch temp max. fermentation temp length of fermentation (days)
14th May 1867 Barclay Perkins X 1061.2 1018.6 5.64 69.68% 9.85 2.77 1.25 1.5 2.5 65º º
2nd Oct 1868 Barclay Perkins XX 1078.9 1024.7 7.18 68.77% 12.89 4.47 1.5 1.75 3 61º 77º 3 + 4
2nd Oct 1868 Barclay Perkins XXX 1092.8 1030.2 8.28 67.46% 14.21 5.90 1.5 1.75 3 58º 77º 3 + 4
8th Jul 1867 Whitbread X 1061.2 1020.2 5.42 66.97% 10.12 2.95 64º º 5
16th May 1867 Whitbread XL 1071.2 1026.0 5.97 63.42% 9.01 3.05 60º 74º 3 + 3
3rd Jun 1867 Whitbread XX 1082.3 1031.3 6.74 61.95% 9.09 3.21 60º 74º 3 + 1
3rd Jul 1865 Truman X Ale 1067.3 1013.9 7.07 79.42% 9 2.78 59º º
4th Jul 1865 Truman 40/- Ale 1072.6 1020.8 6.85 71.37% 9 3.00 59º º
22nd Aug 1865 Truman XX Ale 1081.2 1020.5 8.03 74.74% 11.0 7.17 58º º
22nd Aug 1865 Truman XXX Ale 1088.9 1022.7 8.76 74.45% 11.0 10.15 58º º
23rd July 1867 Courage Ale X 1065.9 10.00 3.10 º
30th July 1867 Courage Ale XX 1078.9 10.00 3.71 º
Sources:
Whitbread brewing records held at the London Metropolitan Archives document numbers LMA/4453/D/01/032 and LMA/4453/D/01/033.
Barclay Perkins brewing records held at the London Metropolitan Archives document numbers ACC/2305/1/572 and ACC/2305/08/275.
Truman brewing record held at the London Metropolitan Archives document number B/THB/C/147.
Courage brewing record held at the London Metropolitan Archives document number ACC/2305/08/275.

Let's move on to the provincial X Ales. They cover a fairly good part of the country, being from Scotland, Yorkshire and Kent. I realise now that Lovibond, as a London brewer, should have been in the first table. Though in terms of the profile of their beers, they fit in better here. Presumably because they were considerably smaller than the likes or Truman, Whitbread, Courage and Barclay Perkins.


Provincial X Ales in the 1860's
Date Year Brewer Beer OG FG ABV App. Attenuation lbs hops/ qtr hops lb/brl boil time (hours) boil time (hours) boil time (hours) Pitch temp max. fermentation temp length of fermentation (days)
1st Oct 1868 Tetley X 1047.4 1020.8 3.52 56.14% 6.00 1.11 1.5 2 66º 66º 4
2nd Oct 1868 Tetley X1 1055.4 1019.4 4.76 65.00% 6.00 1.30 1.5 2 59º 63º 6
5th Oct 1868 Tetley X2 1062.0 1017.7 5.86 71.43% 8.00 2.00 1.5 2 62º 65º 9
19th Oct 1868 Tetley X3 1066.5 1022.2 5.86 66.67% 9.96 3.93 1.5 2 61º 65º 8
17th Oct 1868 William Younger X 1053 1023 3.97 56.60% 6.30 1.36 2.5 59º 66º 3 + 3
24th Aug 1868 William Younger XX 1057 1024 4.37 57.89% 9.58 2.25 2 2.25 58º 69º 4 + 2
26th Aug 1868 William Younger XXX 1068 1028 5.29 58.82% 8.00 2.55 2 2.5 60º 69º 4 + 2
18th Jun 1869 Medway X 1051.5 8.00 1.75 1.5 1.5 60º
2nd Jun 1869 Medway XX 1066.8 9.00 2.63 1.5 1.5 60º
1864 Lovibond X Ale 1050.4 1015.5 4.62 69.23% 10.50 3.15
1864 Lovibond XX Ale 1065.6 1015.0 6.70 77.20% 2.73 0.81
1864 Lovibond XXX Ale 1074.2 1016.6 7.62 77.61% 6.50 1.04
1864 Lovibond XXXX Ale 1085.3 1019.9 8.65 76.62% 10.50 2.01
Sources:
Tetley brewing record held at the West Yorkshire Archive Service, Leeds document number WYL756/16/ACC1903
William Younger brewing record held at the Scottish Brewing Archive document number WY/6/1/2/21
Medway brewing record owned by me
Lovibond brewing record owned by me


The table confirms what I told you before: that the beer from the large London brewers was in general stronger than from their smaller or provincial competitors. The X Ales of the big boys all had gravities over 1060º, while those of the provincial brewers were only around 1050º. The same pattern continued as you went up the strength scale, with Tetley's strongest Mild, X3, only being about the same strength as a London X Ale.

The hopping rates of the provincial beers were also lower, averaging a little under 8 lbs per quarter, while the London beers averaged almost 10.5 lbs per quarter.

It's a shame that I don't have more complete figures for fermentation temperatures. It looks as if, although the pitching temperatures were all around 60º F, that the maximum temperature was considerably lower outside London. A difference in the order of 10º F. This had to be deliberate as London brewers had total control of their fermentation temperatures. I assume the other brewers did, too, as by this time attemperators were standard pieces of kit.

Monday, 19 November 2012

The License-holders' Burden

We've heard about the reaction of drinkers to the huge increase in the tax on beer at the beginning of WW I. Now it's time to hear the view of the pub trade.

Drinkers were quick to blame the trade - both publicans and brewers - for profitting at their expense from the increse in the price of beer of a penny a pint. That may not sound much to us, but it was a 50% increase on the pre-war price of 2d.

It was a bit more complicated than just scaling down the tax increase per barrel to a pint. For one thing, there's the retailer's markup. You have to add that to the tax increase per pint. I believe it was around 50% for beer. They also wanted an extra markup to compensate for the reduction in the amount of beer that they expected to sell. 35%, by the chancellor's reckoning. Though, at least until the end of 1915, this proved wildly inaccurate.

The tax increase was from 7s 9d per standard barrel to 17s 3d, so 9s 6d. Or 114 pence. 36-gallons is 288 pints. Which means the tax increase per pint was 0.4d. Much less than the 1d increase consumers had to pay. Even factoring in the items above, it still doesn't come to 1d a pint. It makes me think that when chancellor Lloyd George said that he expected the price of a pint to rise by 1d, he was trying to keep the brewers and publicans onside.

Funnily enough, the trade wasn't happy with their cut.

"THE LICENSE-HOLDERS' BURDEN.
TO THE EDITOR OF THE COURIER.

Sir, —With reference to the proposed further curtailment of the hours of license-holders in Dundee we shall be obliged if you will publish the following figures with reference to the extra taxation which has been put upon the licensed trade within the past few years. The figures are from the fourth report of His Majesty's Commissioners of Customs and Excise for the year ended 31st March, 1913. this being the latest report which has so far been issued His Majesty's Commissioners, the one for the current year, so far we know, not yet being printed.

The quantity of spirits retained for home consumption in the United Kingdom for the year 1909, when the spirit duty was increased by 9d per gallon, was 38,939,969 proof gallons. The quantity retained for home consumption in the year 1913 was 30,736,088 proof gallons, a decrease of 8,203,881 proof gallons. The duty paid in the year 1909, at 11s per gallon, was £22,599,287, while in 1913, at 14s 9d per proof gallon, it was £21,417,508, an increased taxation of £1,181,779, against a decrease in consumption of nearly eight and quarter million gallons of spirits.

The amount collected from intoxicating liquor licenses in the year 1913 was £4,508,706, whereas in 1909, before the licenses were increased, it amounted £2,172,549, an increase of £2,336,157.

The number of standard barrels of homemade beer; that is to say, at 1000.55 gravity, retained for home consumption in the United Kingdom in 1913 was 34,088,393, which, at 7s 9d per barrel, paid a net duty of £13,200,343. In his speech on the war budget in the House of Commons Tuesday, 17th November, when dealing with the beer duty, the Chancellor of the Exchequer said that he anticipated an increase of £17,600,000 on the beer duty at an increase of 17s 3d per barrel, while he believed that the decrease consumption would be 35 per cent. Since then the Chancellor of the Exchequer has made a rebate of 2s per barrel for the current year on the price of beer, but by the year 1916 the price will be 17s 3d, so that it is quite competent to accept his calculation of the increase which he originally anticipated; viz., £17,600,000, which will ultimately be paid extra on beer. If the Chancellor's anticipations are correct the result of his taxation will be that, while the beer consumpt will be reduced by 11,930,937 barrels, he will have increased the taxation on beer by £17,600,000, giving him a yield from this source of revenue of £30,800,343. In addition to all the above duties exacted from the trade they pay all the other taxes that flesh is heir to in this country, and, so far as municipal taxation is concerned, in a much higher proportion than other shopkeepers on account of the high rents which they pay.

The general opinion of the man the street is that all extra charges have been passed on to the consumer; this is not the case. We have made a careful calculation, and find that since the year 1909 the Chancellor of the Exchequer has appropriated 37.3 per cent, of the net income of the licensed trade in Scotland, all of which, of course, has gone to reduce the taxation of those not connected with the licensed trade, and who have consequently benefited to this extent.

The increase in taxation, it will be seen, has been as follows:- Spirits £1,181,779, license duties £2,336,157, and now from beer £17,600,000, a total extra taxation of £21,117,936, which will also benefit to a very large extent each individual in the community. If it is proposed to further curtail the hours of license-holders in Dundee, we hope, in justice to the license-holders, that proposal will be put forward at the same time agreeing to compensate them for the loss of trade and also for a rebate of the duty from which those who are putting forward the motions are benefiting to such a huge extent.

We may say that the 0.5d per glass of beer which the Chancellor suggested should be added to meet the extra taxation on beer does not anything like compensate the license-holders for the loss of trade estimated by the Chancellor.—We are, &c..
For James Watson & Company, Ltd.
C. H. Marshall, Director.
97 Seagate, Dundee, 2d December, 1914. "
Dundee Courier - Thursday 03 December 1914, page 6.
What a lovely phrase "all the other taxes that flesh is heir to in this country" is. I'll have to remember that for future use.

James Watson makes a very good point about the taxation that the pub trade paid: it reduced the amount everyone else needed to pay. It's a point completely ignored by temperance (I shouldn't use that word as it means something other than what they truly were) prohibitionist campaigners. The sum the drinkers contributed to the national coffers. And how they would replace it, should their dream come true.

The complaints about the burden put on the pub trade by the government sounds very much like laments of modern publicans. Some things really never change in Britain.

Sunday, 18 November 2012

London X Ales in the 1830's

Mild. Not written anything about it for a while. It must be time to give it another go. I know, early London X Ales. They're fun.

The 1830 Beer Act is one of the most important pieces of British legislation regarding beer. Its main provision was the shifting of taxation from finished beer to the raw materials. Another which had an even bigger impact on brewing was with regard to a new type of licence. The beer-only or beerhouse licence. These were issued automatically (once a few basic criteria had been filled) without the need for approval from local magistrates. Thousands of beer houses opened almost immediately.

This new market caused a rethink amongst the large London Porter brewers. Before 1830 most of them brewed no Ales at all, concentrating 100% on Porter and Stout. They had tied customers in the London pub trade, but the tie was only for Porter and Stout, not for Ale, which was supplied by other brewers. Beer houses appeared just at the time when Porter's long ascendancy began to be challenged by Mild Ale. Mild Ales popularity surged along with beer house number. It was a trend the Porter brewers couldn't afford to ignore and in the 1830's they started to brew Ales.

I love these early Milds. My favourite historical recreation brew is Pretty Things version of an 1830's Truman XXXX Ale. It's a ridiculously simple beer with just one type of malt and one type of hops. I do wish other commercial brewers would give this type of Mild a go. I think there would be a ready market for them. Even the session-strength X Ales of just 6-7% ABV.



London X Ales in the 1830's
Date Year Brewer Beer Style OG FG ABV App. Atten-uation lbs hops/ qtr hops lb/brl boil time (hours) boil time (hours) boil time (hours) Pitch temp max. fermen-tation temp length of fermen-tation (days)
5th Dec 1836 Whitbread X Mild 1077.0 1029.4 6.30 61.87% 6.55 2.33 2 2 3 63.5º 74.5º 4 + 2
17th Feb 1837 Whitbread X Mild 1066.2 1030.5 4.73 53.97% 7.65 2.15 2 2 3 63º 72º 5 + 4
13th Dec 1838 Barclay Perkins X Mild 1072.6 1013.0 7.88 82.09% 6.32 2.30 3 58.5º º
31st Dec 1838 Reid X Mild 1073.4 6.75 2.06 1 3 60º
3rd Dec 1831 Truman X Ale Mild 1072.3 1021.6 6.71 70.11% 7 2.33 62º 77º 8
3rd Mar 1836 Truman X Ale Mild 1075.3 1024.9 6.67 66.91% 6 2.07 60º 70º 8
15th Mar 1837 Whitbread XX Mild 1091.4 1035.5 7.40 61.21% 6.05 2.35 2 2 3 59º 74º 6 + 2
27th Dec 1838 Reid XX Mild 1088.6 8.8 3.12 1.5 3 57º
25th Jul 1839 Barclay Perkins XX Mild 1088.6 1015.0 9.74 83.08% 9.10 4.21 3.75 58º 76.5º 5 + ?
24th Dec 1831 Truman XX Ale Mild 1083.1 1030.5 6.96 63.33% 6 2.63 59º 77º 10
18th Jul 1835 Truman XX Ale Mild 1092.5 1027.7 8.57 70.06% 10 4.46 59º 71º 10
11th Nov 1836 Whitbread XXX Mild 1102.8 1036.0 8.83 64.96% 6.09 2.80 2 2 3.5 62.5º 74.5º 5 + 4
3rd Aug 1839 Barclay Perkins XXX Mild 1104.4 1017.6 11.49 83.15% 8.17 4.93 3.25 58.5º 77º 6 + ?
18th Mar 1839 Reid XXX Mild 1105.3 8 3.75 1.5 3 57º
1st Dec 1831 Truman XXX Ale Mild 1086.4 1016.6 9.23 80.77% 8 4.00 62º º 13
11th Aug 1835 Truman XXX Ale Mild 1109.4 1034.3 9.93 68.61% 10 4.65 59º 69º 9
23rd Dec 1836 Whitbread XXXX Mild 1114.7 1039.3 9.97 65.70% 7.00 3.64 2.17 2 2.5 60º 73º 7 + 1
21st Nov 1835 Truman XXXX Ale Mild 1116.3 1045.4 9.38 60.95% 8 5.97 58º 69º 12
Sources:
Whitbread brewing record held at the London Metropolitan Archives document number LMA/4453/D/01/001.
Barclay Perkins brewing record held at the London Metropolitan Archives document number ACC/2305/1/550.
Truman brewing records held at the London Metropolitan Archives document numbers B/THB/C/115 and B/THB/C/119.
Reid brewing record held at the City of Westminster Archives document number 789/266.


Looking at the gravities of the beers in the table, I'm struck by how similar the gravities are across the different breweries. I suspect that they were keeping an eye on each other's gravities and prices. One word about beer strengths. In general, the large London brewers made stronger beers than other brewers. Their economies of scale and high degree of mechanisation meant that they could brew more cheaply than their smaller competitors. As prices were constant across different brewers, lower production costs were expressed in greater strength.

X Ales had gravities around 1075º, XX Ales 1090º, XXX Ales 1105º and XXXX Ales 1115º. So they basically started at around double the gravity of modern Milds and worked up from there. Why isn't there any wailing about modern Milds being completely inauthentic? I know, because only IPA is judged by early 19th-century standards. I still can't work out why that is.

You can see that the attenuation is all over the shop, from a low of 54% to a high of over 80%. The ones at the top end are more the exception. In general, Milds of this period had about 65% attenuation. Around 10 points lower than you would expect today.

In common with all 19th-century British beers, they contained a shed-load of hops. Not quite the several shed-loads of a Pale Ale, but still serious quantities. There's still a fair bit of variation in hopping rates amongst the beers in the table. Some of that is probably explained by when they were brewed. Summer brews normally received more hops than winter ones.

Fermentation temperatures are one thing that seem to have changed little over the years, remaining in the 60-70º F range right up until after WW II.

Excuse me if I haven't mentioned the ingredients. In my defence, they are pretty dull. Pale malt and Kent hops. See what I mean? There's not much to be said about them.

What next? X Ales in the 1840's? It's a possibility.