Bayerischer Wald

Bayerischer Wald

Arse-end of nowhere is a good way to describe the Bavarian Forest. During the Cold War, being stuck up against the mostly impenetrable Czech border wasn’t a great for the economy. Not that the area had been prosperous before. Judging by all the “Zimmer Frei” signs, tourism is a big source of revenue. Beautiful countryside is one commodity that isn’t in short supply. The landscape varies from lovely to stunning.


Dampfbierbrauerei Zwiesel
Regener Straße 9,
94227 Zwiesel.
Tel: 09922 - 84660
Fax: 09922 - 846655
Email: info@dampfbier.de
http://www.dampfbier.de

Zwiesel is a small but perfectly-formed town stretched out along a steep valley. Dampfbrauerei is built into a rocky cliff on one of the valley sides. At the moment it looks a bit of a mess due to rebuilding work. We were lucky to get a tour, as the brewery is officially closed to visitors while the Sudhaus is reshaped. They’re glazing one wall so the open fermenters can be observed without fear of infection.

The brewery’s main product is, unsurprisingly given the name, Dampfbier. It’s an amber, top-fermented, lightly-hopped beer. The story is that in the 19th century the region was so poor that could afford neither the ice necessary for bottom-fermentation nor large quantities of hops. Today, when such restrictions no longer apply, they also brew a wide range of bottom-fermenting beers.

As if to emphasise the new possibilities created by the opening of the Czech border, a delegation from Pilsen council arrives just after us. Oh, and the large wooden lagering vats in the beer garden came from Pilsner Urquell. They’re just for show, but do look good.

I ask loads of questions (as usual) but the brewer is showing the Czechs around. We get a standard tour guide. Not great for the type of questions I ask. Stuff like “What’s the pressure in the lagering tanks” gets a blank look in reply from non-technicians. They probably think I’m just being awkward. No, I really am interested in this crap. From the reactions I’ve had so far to the technical brewing details I‘ve posted, I’m not the only one. In fact, I’ve noticed that the more obscure points are the ones that garner the greatest interest.

Where was I? Questions and answers. That’s it. Here's what I found out:

• Mash tun and kettle capacity 82 hl. Annual production 16,000 hl. Beer is only distributed within 30 miles of the brewery, except for Dampfbier which is tributed further.


• The malt comes from Bamberg and Regensburg.


• Boil 1.5 hours. First addition of Hallertauer hop pellets after 20 minutes, 2nd addition after 40 minutes, 3rd addition after 75 minutes. They have a special machine that does this automatically.


• Pitching temperature - top-fermenting 18-20º C, bottom-fermenting 6-8º C. Primary fermentation lasts 7 days. Open fermenters are used.


• The beer is lagered in stainless steel tanks for 5 weeks at 0-2º C. No additional CO2 is added in the lagering tanks.

Jim, smooth-talker that he is, tells our friendly guide Angelica that he likes her hair. She could be his daughter, but he isn’t going to let that get in his way. He turns out to have quite an eye for the ladies as the week progresses. I hope I’m that sprightly when I’m his age (which won’t be all that long.)

At the end of the tour our guide offers us free beer. “Oh no, it’s far too early in the day.” I reply. Like hell I do. It’s never too early for free beer. Or paid-for beer, come to think of it. Not when you’re on holiday.

Dampfbier: amber colour, sweetish with caramel, vanilla and boiled sweets flavours. My score - 54 out of 100. It's a reasonable enough beer, sort of like a sweet Alt.

It’s a nice day, so we sit in the beer garden next to the Urquell vats, bathed in spring sunshine. This is the life. To my surprise, the day manages to get much better. But I’m getting ahead of myself. You’ll have to wait until tomorrow to find out why.

Regensburg 11.04.2008

Regensburg

First stop on the tour proper is Regensburg. Though we do make a detour to Kelheim on the way. To see if we can pick up a few bottles of Schneider Eisbock. Sadly, the brewery shop is closed. Bum. It was the only beer I intended taking home with me.

Wandering through the streets of Regensburg is a real pleasure. It's beautiful, as is the weather, and tourist season hasn't started yet. We can walk over the bridge relatively undisturbed. OK, there is a group of Italian schoolgirls, but that's it. Just over the bridge is the Spital brewery and pub.


Gaststätte Spitalgarten
St. Katarinenplatz 1,
93059 Regensburg.
Tel: 0941 - 847 74
Fax: 0941 - 890 3168
http://www.spitalgarten.de/

Walking around the back of the brewery, we notice a room with a small brewing plant. Far too small to be the real brewery. It must be a pilot plant.

The great weather means we can sit in the beer garden. The trees are starting to bud, the birds are singing and we're the only customers. Considering we're in the centre of town, it's incredibly quiet, with the Danube gurgling gently in the background.

This is when leaving the pub early last night pays off. I'm really in the mood for a beer. I opt for a Dunkles. Predictable, I know. But I love dark lager. It's dark brown, tastes of liquorice, roast and spice and is relatively dry. Very different from Schneider's Dunkles - more like one of the drier Czech examples. For a middle-sized brewery it's not bad at all. I score it 64 out of 100.






Brauereigaststätte Kneitinger
Arnulfsplatz 3,
93047 Regensburg.
Tel: 0941 - 52455
Fax: 0941 - 599 9982
Email: info@knei.de
http://www.knei.de/

This is getting repetitive. I'm retracing my steps from the last tour. Well, almost. I haven't got a map with me this time. Keith decides to skip looking around the town and come with me to Kneitinger. I'm pretty sure I can remember the way. It turns out to be another example of over-confidence in my own navigational ability. When the buildings start thinning out, Keith suggests we ask directions. Good idea. I ask the next person we meet, a charming young lady, if she knows where the Kneitinger brewery is. "Follow me, I'm going that way." People are very friendly down this way. And all seem to know where the breweries are in their town.

It's 11:30 when we get to Kneitinger. Which could explain why there are free seats. Usually it's packed. There's something about a dirndl. Especially when worn by a waitress. Even if she is old enough to be your granny (as in this case), it's still charming. Though this particular granny was slightly gruff. Before we even have chance to order, Andy and Jim arrive. Pretty brief look around town, Andy.

Not much later, I have another Dunkles in front of me. Kneitinger's version is sweet and nutty, with background notes of caramel and liquorice. Quite different again. I told you I'd be banging on about diversity in Dunkles. I haven't had two similar ones yet.

We're sitting in the drinking corridor. Kneitinger's brewery tap is very much like a traditional Yorkshire pub. The servery is in the corridor of which are several rooms. Surprisingly, the most crowded part is the standing section right by the bar counter. All blokes of a certain age. With beer guts that make me fell quite positive about my body.

More about day one tomorrow. I told you this would take some time.

Josef Schneider, Essing

One of the highlights of my trip last year was the stay at the delightful little pub/brewery/hotel of Josef Schneider in the equally delightful village of Essing. At least it would have been, if I hadn't overdone it in the evening session. I woke with a stonking hangover and almost missed the tour of the brewery. I wasn't going to make that mistake again.

I'm starting to like Bavarian folksy interiors. Who would have thunk it? The bar is pretty quiet at the moment (17:30). Actually, empty is more accurate. There isn't even anyone to serve me. That's fine. Gives me time to snap a few piccies in peace. There really is something rather sweet about the style of decor, if you leave your preconceptions at the door. I always check in mine at the cloakroom.

A skinny barmaid turns up and pours me a Dunkles. Character and diversity. I'll be banging on about that a lot in the next days/weeks. Especially with regard to Dunkles. Josef Schneider's is along the lines of a classic Münchner, but hoppier. Nuts, dates, toffee and molasses. Finished off with a dash of peppery Hallertauer. I give it 69 out of 100. A very respectable score.

Jim arrives and, wondering which draught beer to start with asks the waitress "Was ist gut?" "Alles" is her simple (and accurate) reply. She reminds me of my wife's mate Kerstin. I have a soft spot for Kerstin, which may be connected with the fact that she has a large house on the outskirts of Leipzig. With room enough for the whole family to stay. We should really go and visit her again.

Andy and Keith have arrived now, too. Time for another beer. This time I go for Märzen. Josef's is an amber one. It arrives a bit too fizzy for my taste, but after an hour or two of swirling I deem it ready to drink. Malt-accented, as you would expect. Vanilla, caramel and wort. But again nicely balanced by the earthy spiciness of Hallertauer. (That's the only hop used around these parts. They are pretty local, after all.) 72 out of 100 I mark it. Another good one.

Josef (the brewer) comes up and has a chat. He proudly tells us how his son is busy setting up breweries in a chain of hotels in China. Last time we were here he'd been having a party to celebrate his son graduating from brewing school. Hopefully the brewery is safe for another generation.

As he's got time, he takes us around the brewery there and then. The maltsters Weyermann sell a little case with samples of each of the malts they make. They're a bit expensive, which is why I never bought one. I never realised how handy they could be. When I started quizzing Josef about which malts were in the Dunkles, he grabbed hold of the case and showed me. This is the grist of his Dunkles:

80% Munich malt
10% Caramunich
5% Carafa
5% acidic malt

That explains why it tastes quite like a Münchner.

This is the Märzen grist:

60% Vienna
30% Munich
5% Caramell malt
5% acidic malt

I didn't quite catch all the malts for the Helles, but it does have 30% Vienna malt.

The boil is slightly unusual. He adds 25% of the hops before the wort has boiled. The beers are lagered at 2º C for six to eight weeks, the Bock for 3 months.

What else did he say that was interesting? Oh yes - 60% of his output in Weizen. I hope I'm not letting the cat out of the bag, but this includes the Weizen for Spezial of Bamberg. Spezial supplies them with their own smoked malt. Essing is quite a stretch from Bamberg, so I wonder why they would be having their Weizen brewed here. Simple explanation: he and the brewer at Spezial shared a room while at brewing school.

Back to the pub. No dark Bock this time, but the spring seasonal Heller Bock. It has plenty of concentrated malt and hop flavours, but lacks the depth of the other beers. Just 61 for this.

Andy is deeply shocked by what happens next. It's just after 9 PM. I finish my Bock and say I'm going to bed. "What? You are joking, aren't you?" No, I'm deadly serious. I don't want to start such a long and arduous tour feeling crap.

Training day over. Now for the real business.

Josef Schneider
Altmühlgasse 10
93343 Essing.
http://www.brauereigasthof-schneider.de/

Tour day zero

This is where my next endurance test of related posts begins. Beer-Mania!'s Franconia and Bohemia tour is the theme. The tour isn't quite finished yet. I left early because I'd done the same itinerary as the last couple of days just a few months ago. Not that I wouldn't have minded doing it again. I just couldn't swing it with the wife.

Tour day zero? That's right, day zero. It officially began Friday. I was due to travel down in Andy's minibus the night before to be in position for the tour start. Then the other tour members decided to join us a day early, too. I don't blame them. We were staying at Josef Schneider's brewery in Essing. A great location in every way: tasty beer, beautiful village, friendly people.

But I'm getting ahead of myself. After the pickup at Frankfurt airport our first stop was a quick beer break at Stern-Bräu in Schlüsselfeld.

About 30 years ago they must have tarted up pretty well every pub in Bavaria. In a style I call rustic kitsch. It's a bit of an acquired taste. Lots of pine, folksy chairs and quite bland. But it's a taste I'm beginning to acquire. Stern Bräu has it in spades. Rustic kitsch, I mean.

Behind the pub used to stand the Kommunbrauhaus, which has now been moved to the Freilandmuseum Bad Windsheim.

Time for the first beer of the tour (if you discount the quick Beck's during my "toilet break" in Frankfurt airport). A good one it is, too. Called a Dunkles, the colour isn't any deeper than mid-amber. Fruit, pepper and just a touch of smoke. Subtle and drinkable, as German beer should be. I scored it 75 out of 100.

I hadn't eaten since breakfast so I ordered a Schüsselfelder Brotzeit. A dozen types of cold meat with slices of rye bread and cucumber. This is what counts as a snack in Bavaria. I recall it costing a tad under 5 euros.

The pub is pretty quiet. Just a couple of old blokes in the corner. And the ruddy-cheeked, buxom daughter of the owners, who was doing the serving. You can tell we're in the country. You don't find that sort of lass in the city.

After polishing off my snack, I gave the Helles a try. Not as complex as the Dunkles, but nice and hoppy, as Franconian beer should be. 68 I scored it.

Pretty good start. Will the rest of the tour be able to maintain this high standard? Find out next week. (And the week after, and the week after that.)

Stern-Bräu,
Brauerei und Gasthof Scheubel,
Kirchplatz 12,
96132 Schlüsselfeld,
Tel: 09552 - 320
http://www.brauerei-scheubel.de

I'm back

I've just got back from my tour of Franconia and Bohemia. Lots and lots on the trip will follow soon. I grilled brewers more precisely this time. Plenty of details about malts and fermentation regimes. Zoigl was particularly surprising, in terms of techniques.

A round of applause please for my son Andrew who posted pre-prepared texts while I was away.

And I picked up a great book yesterday in Nuremberg - "Die Besteuerung des Haus-Brauwesens in Bayern". Real general interest stuff.

Berliner Weissbier - the long version (part 6)

This must be the longest continuous series of posts I've ever made. I'm sure to have shaken off most of my regular readers by now. You're either incredibly tenacious or about to brew a Berliner Weisse.

Lactobacillus during Fermentation
The lactobacillus grows while the yeast grows and stops growing when the yeast stops growing.

A pure culture of lactobacillus will only get acclimatised to a symbiosis with yeast if, when first introduced to the yeast, there is far more lactobacillus than yeast.

Lactobacillus and yeast during fermentation in a practical environment
The proportion of yeast to lactobacillus is 4:1, 5:1 or 6:1

At the start of fermentation, the yeast grows much quicker, but the lactobacillus catches up later and by the end of primary fermentation the proportion of yeast to bacteria is the same as when pitched.

Towards the end of fermentation, most of the bacteria rises into the yeast head. After five days fermenting, 96% of the lactobacillus is in the head, just 4% in the beer.

Here's a chart to show how the fermentation progresses:


The warmer the fermentation temperature, the faster the lactobacillus grows. Though, whether fermented warm or cold, the ratio of yeast to bacteria at the end of fermentation always returns to about what it was at pitching time.

Despite consisting of two totally disparate elements, the pitching culture behaves like a single strain.

Weissbier fermented at 18.75 - 25º C is sourer than that fermented below 18.75º C.

Sourness in the fermenting tun is almost all formed between the start in growth of the lactobacillus and when the yeast floats to the surface, when the lactobacilluuus rises to the surface with the yeast.

About half the sourness in a 3-4 week old bottle was formed in the fermenting tun during the first 3 days of fermentation.

If primary fermentation occurs at a temperature below 16.25º C, the growth of lactobacillus is so slow that only an insignificant amount of sourness can be produced.

So much good stuff there. I hope you can digest it all. No, don't spit it out again. That's disgusting. I haven't finished with fermenting yet, anyway.

Berliner Weissbier - the long version (part 5)

I wasn't joking when I remarked this was an endurance test. Both for you and for me. Here's more about the fermentation of Weissber from "Die Herstellung Obergähriger Biere" by Schönfeld, published in 1902.

Schönfeld's own research has shown:

1. Lactobacillus develops better under CO2 than under air
2. The best temperature for the development of lactobacillus is 24 - 30º C.
3. Over 30º C, lactobacillus growth drops off sharply.
4. 30º C is the optimum temperature.
5. Below 22º C, lactobacillus growth is dimished, but still better than at 33º C. Over 40º C there is virtually no growth, at 2º C there is still some.
6. Low levels of alcohol (1-5% ABV) not only don't impede the development of lactobacillus, they seem to encourage it.
7. Levels of alcohol above 8% ABV have a negative effect on lactobacillus.
8. The lactobacillus in Berliner Weissbier is not the same as the lactobacillus used in distilleries. The latter has an optimum temperature of 45 - 50º C.

There are some handy facts about lactobacillus. I'm sure your mates down the pub will fascinated when you relate them. I expect to be dining out for decades on that lot of data.

Berliner Weissbier - the long version (part 4)

The endurance test continues. More about Weissbier efrom "Die Herstellung Obergähriger Biere" by Schönfeld, published in 1902.

Fermentation
The wort is pitched with yeast in large pitching tuns at 16.25 - 18.75º C then after 8-12 hours transferred to smaller fermentation tuns where the fermentation really starts.

At the start of fermentation, a black "pitch" consisting of yeast, hop resin, protein and wheat fat forms on top of the wort. This has to be carefully removed. The head isn't beautiful but consists of large bubbles and is quite loose. As fermentation progresses, a white covering of yeast develops which lasts throughout fermentation. Yeast for repitching is harvested from the centre, before the head starts to collapse.

Fermenation takes 3 to 5 days, depending on the pitching temperature, the amount of yeast pitched, cellar temperture and size of the fermentation temperature.

Usually 1 litre of yeast is pitched per 5 hl wort.

Fermenting vessels vary enormously in size - from 4 hl to over 100 hl.

The pitching tun is huge in large breweries - as much as 600 - 700 hl.

The pitching and fermenting tuns are not lacquered. The lactic acid produced in the fermentation eats away the lacquer very quickly.

Fermentation temperature varies between 17.5 and 20º C.

The higher the fermentaion temperature, the sourer the finished beer.

The fermentation is a combination of the action of the yeast and lactobacillus.

The lactobacillus is more anaerobic than aerobic. It grows faster in closed bottles than in open vessels.

I think that will do for today. Though we aren't finished with fermentation yet.

Berliner Weissbier - the long version (part 3)

Here's the next exciting installment of Weissbier from "Die Herstellung Obergähriger Biere" by Schönfeld, published in 1902. Hey you at the back! I can see your eyelids drooping. Stay awake.

Not Boiling the Wort
Two reasons are usually given for not boiling the wort:

1. So that the lactobacillus necessary to make Weissbier sour which is in the malt isn't killed during mashing. But Schönfelds own bacteriological investigation shows that a normal mash at 76.25º C is enough to kill all the yeast and bacteria in the malt. Also, he was unable to find lactobacillus in the spent grains or wort. He concludes concludes that the lactobacillus in the fermentation does not come from the malt.
2. That a boiled wort tastes different from an unboiled wort. This is true, but he doubts if a short boil of 15 minutes changes the flavour much. If it were true, Weissbier brewed using an infusion mash would taste different from one using a decoction mash where part of the wort is boiled for 15 to 20 minutes. But there isn't a detectable difference between decoction and infusion Weissbier. Boiling for 2 -3 hours, as for a Lagerbier, would change the flavour appreciably. 15 to 20 minutes boiling doesn't. In a test carries out at the Institute of Gährungsgewerbe, experienced Weissbier drinkers couldn't tell the difference betweeen beers witth no boil and those where a short boil was employed. Boiling also aids head retention by destroting the enzymes before fermentation starts.

Tomorrow, we finally get to fermentation.

Berliner Weissbier - the long version (part 2)

This is the second installment of a summary of the Berliner Wissbier chapter in "Die Herstellung Obergähriger Biere" by Schönfeld, published in 1902.

Mashing (continued)
The final mash temperature should be 76.25 - 77.5º C but no higher, because that would weaken the diastase, prevent a full conversion and leave the wort with a starch haze.

The lauter tun should be well insulated to prevent the wort from cooling.

As soon as mashing is complete the wort should be pumped into the cool ship.

About 375 to 500 g of hops should be used per 100 kg of malt.

As there is no boil, the hops need to be added in a different way.

The simplest way of adding hops is to boil them in the water that is to be used for mashing. The hops are present for the whole mashing process and act as an additional filter. The lauter tun needs to be emptied very carefully, due to the high percentage of wheat in the mash. This usually takes 5 to 6 hours.

As the filtered wort contains a large amout of active diastase, the grains can be sparged with almost boiling water without danger of unconverted starch remaining in the wort.

The wort should be pitched with yeast as quickly as possible and should not be left standing cool. The risk of infection is too great if this happens.

The wort should only flow over the cool ship and not stand in it. Even a 15 minute rest in dangerous.

Infections occur quite often because the importance of sterilising the wort isn't recognised. The final mashing temperature is often not higher than 71.25 - 72.5º C and the mash ofter cools considerably in the lauter tun.

That was fun, wasn't it? Still lots, lots, lots more to go. You understand now why I didn't attempt a full translation.

Berliner Weissbier - the long version (part 1)

Here, as already promised many times, is my synopsis of the lengthy chapter on Berliner Weisse in "Die Herstellung Obergähriger Biere" by Schönfeld, published in 1902 (pages 68 to 93).

Mashing
The wheat malt and barley should be milled separately because wheat grains are smaller.

The wheat malt should be sprinkled with water (2-4%) a day or two before milling to make the husk more elastic.

Malt should not be stored damp, If it is, the enzymes start to work and this has a negative effect on the head retention of the finished beer.

The proportion of wheat malt to barley malt should be 3:1 or 4:1.

Either an infusion or decoction mash can be employed.

The importance of mashing is demonstrated by the fact that even in large breweries it is performed by the Braumeister himself.

The mashing process is seen as determining the character of the finished beer. Yet, although there are almost as many mashing methods as breweries, different Weissbiers are very similar in character.

Malt is home to many types of bacteria and yeast. One of the vital functions of the mash is to kill all of these and to produce a sterile wort.

Through his own research, Schönfeld has determined the following:

1. In an infusion mash, if the mash is gradually raised in temperature over 1.25 hours to 72.5º C and left at this temperature for half an hour to allow full conversion of starch to sugar, then heated to 76.25 - 77.5º C and kept there until the wort is drawn off, then all bacteria and yeast will be killed.
2. If the final mashing temperature doesn't hit 75º C, then some yeast and bacteria will survive.
3. Some bacteria - coccus and sarcina - thrive in weakly-hopped wort.

That's it for today. More tomorrow

In praise of gravity-served lager

Stonch has brought this subject up before. The difference between lager served by gravity and that dispensed by CO2 top pressure.

As someone who was indoctrinated by CAMRA whils still a teenager, I've always believed straight from the cask is better. Even ignoring my prejudices, it looks great and seems more natural. Last night I had confirmation that the beer tastes better, too.

Wildeman has excelled itself again for German Week. I was wiping the drool off my shirt after looking at the draught list. Some of Franconia's finest. Including two of my favourites: Schlenkerla Fastenbier and Hummel-bräu Räucherator. Not to everyone's taste, I know, but I love smoky-bacon flavour beer. I started with a couple of Fastenbiers and then moved on to Räucherator. But only for one. It was such a disappointment. Fastenbier first was a big mistake.

Why? Usually working upwards in strength is the right progression. Not yesterday. The Fastenbier, you see, was in a cask on the bar. The Räucherator was keg. Everything about the Fastenbier was better - flavour, aroma, cabonation, head, temperature, texture. Everything.

An object lession in the superiority of gravity dispense.

In praise of lager

I used to believe ales were intrinsically superior to lagers. More complex, more varied. Then again, I used to believe Newcastle might win the league in my lifetime. We all have silly ideas at one time or another.

A visit to Czechoslovakia set me right. About two mouthfuls into my first Pilsner Urquell. A glass or two of Branik 12º dark and I was a committed lager fan. Unpasteurised, air-pressure dispensed Czech lager was a revelation. Bland, fizzy and characterless? Not in the least. These beers were nothing like the pale, tasteless stuff I'd occasionally sipped in Britain, Belgium and - dare I say it - Germany.

This was quite a while ago. As the more astute of you may already have deduced from the references to Czechoslovakia and Branik 12º dark. I'm giving away my age here. I made the trip when I was 16. That's it, 16.

Later journeys to Franconia cemented my love of bottom-fermenting beers. When done well. Sadly, very little of it is brewed well. Try a beer that's been properly lagered for 3 months and you'll understand why such beers were a big hit at the end of the 19th century. Not bland, just with the rough edges knocked off. Watch how the CO2 comes out of solution. In thousands of minute bubbles. That's what a proper lager is like. Something that's barely had time to take off its coat in the lagering cellar will never be anything but a pale imitation.

Why am I suddenly singing lager's praises? A couple of reasons. In about an hour I'll be tucking into Schweinehaxe and slurping down a few half litres of the good stuff in Wildeman. It's German week there. When they up their already impressive range of Franconian treats. Hopefully at least one will be straight out of the cask. I know. I'm a jammy git. Yet another reason to live in Amsterdam.

I've already mentioned (probably several times) that I'm going on a tour of Franconia, Bohemia and Zoigl country. It starts on Thursday. A journey through lager's heartland. With someone else driving. Sounds like heaven to me.

Berliner Weisse - the modern version

As a prologue to my epic series of Berliner Weisse posts, I'm going to cheat. Well, not exactly cheat, but use material provided by someone else. Stuff documenting modern (post -1960) Berliner Weisse.

It's been provided by Lachlan (thanks, man). My head is so firmly stuck up the past's arse , that I barely notice what's happening today.

From German Wheat Beer, by Eric Warner, 1992:

"At the Schultheiss brewery in Berlin, the wort is pitched and blended with three- to six-month-old beer. Once the fermentation is underway, the lactic acid bacteria rise to the surface and are harvested in traditional fashion along with the top-fermenting yeast. The yeast is repitched as quickly as possible, because the amount of lactic acid will rise within a few days to concentrations that will inhibit not only the the yeast, but the lactic acid bacteria themselves. Although the wort is relatively weak and normal fermentations temperatures are used, it takes about four days for the wort to attenuate to the desired degree because of the inhibiting effect the lactic acid has on the yeast. Unlike Hefe Weissbier, Berliner Weisse is not completely attenuated in the fermentatiton cellar; rather, it is attenuated to about 80 percent of its limit.

There is no set manner in which the conditioning of Berliner Weisse takes place, but all methods use a form of kraeusening to aid the maturation of the beer. The faster of these methods involves adding about 10 percent kraeusen to the young beer in a mixing tank just prior to bottling. After bottling, the beer is subjected to warm secondary fermentation at approximately 15 deg C before it is cooled to 8 to 10 deg C for the cold conditioning. Again, as is the case with other styles of Weissbier, the warm conditioning phase serves to jump-start the secondary fermentation and develop the CO2 in the beer. Berliner Weisse produced in this manner is ready for distribution after a total of about five weeks.

According to Michael Jackson in his World Guide to Beer, the Schultheiss brewery believes that this time frame is much too limiting to allow the beer to develop its full character. After the primary fermentation the beer spends three to 12 months in the conditioning cellar at the very warm temperatures of 15 to 25 deg C. These temperatures promote lactic acid fermentation, which results in an extremely low pH of 3.0 and an incredibly high apparent degree of attenuation of 98.4 percent. The beer is then kraeusened prior to bottling and, as if the lactic quality weren't enhanced enough, another dose of Lacto. delbrueckii is added to the primed Weisse. The Schultheiss Weisse is then stored in the bottle at temperatures of 18 to 25 deg C for four weeks before it is released for sale."

From "Inside Berlin's Own Beer by Dennis Davison, Zymurgy Vol. 19 No. 5 Winter 1996:

"Schultheiss has modified their process to expedite the process. Today (1996) the beer is boiled just enough to settle unwanted solids and a mixture of multistrain ale yeast and Lactobacillus Delbrueckii are used. Schultheiss adds a percentage of three- to six-month-old Berliner to the fermenter. The beer is fermented at 20 to 25 deg C for four days then aged in secondary from threee to six days at 15 to 25 deg C. The beer is then kraeusened and bottle condidtion for up to four weeks before release, but never pasteurised.

Berliner Kindl uses a nontraditional method. The initial wort is divided in half and each yeast is fermented separately, one with a standard ale yeast, Sacch. cerevisiae, the other with a homofermentative strain of Lacto. delbrueckii. These worts are fermented at 15 to 25 deg C for at least one week. The two batches are then blended in the secondary and aged for only a few months at 5 to 10 deg C. The beer is bottled with fresh kraeusen and allowed to carbonate. This method produces fewer esters compared to the traditional method, and less lactic intensity."

A comparison with early 20th century methods of Berliner Weisse production will be very revealing, I'm sure. I can't wait. Can you?

Einfachbier and Süßbier

It's taken a while, but today I finally publish the last of the translation of the "Special Beers" chapter in "Die Herstellung Obergähriger Biere" (page 66). Thanks for being patient.

"Apart from those just mentioned, Einfach- and Süßbiers have little or no individuality and and lack and striking, individyual piquant taste to tickle the tastebuds of drinkers. The only thing that marks them out is a higher CO2 content, acquired during a vigorous secondary fermentation in the bottle, which makes them extremely refreshing, nourishing and thirst-quenching and, especially in the warmer season, majes them lively, when in addition to livelythere's also a need for low-alcohol beers which don't cause much tiredness.

The lack of character and unexciting taste of these beers is usually seen as responsible for the decline in their consumption. It would be difficult to turn the backwards movement into advancing development again. For that, not only would the greatest effort be needed of the business to brew a storable [haltbar], infection-free beer, but also an improvement in quality through the making of maltier, spicier beers with a lasting head and a crystal-clear appearance. with a piquant taste and strong carbonation.

That such beers would find a good and profitable market is illustrated by the increase in production of some crystal-clear, fiery, sharp Special Beers and beer types with a good, characteristic flavour."

Schönfeld explicitly attributes the decline in demand for many top-fermenting to their lack of a distinctive, outdated brewing methods and the presence of infection. History has proved him right. These beers have disappeared without trace while those with the qualities he recommended - Berliner Weisse, Gose, Grätzer and Lichtenhainer - made it past WW II.

Berliner Weisse. I'll be posting a synopsis of the chapter about it in "Die Herstellung Obergähriger Biere" soon. And I've just found a detailed description of how to brew it from the 1950's in Dickscheit's "Leitfaden für Brauer und Mälzer". A translation of that will follow, too.

Respect

Many things annoy me. I'm a pretty angry sort of bloke. I regularly scream at my television. And my computer.

Along with drivers that don't stop at pedestrian crossings, people who smoke cigars in pubs, unleashed dogs, politicians who sow fear and hate, greedy agents, queue jumpers, mobile phones and mosquitoes, the external imposition of a style structure really pisses me off. It shows a lack of respect for the beer culture of others.

Want examples? Belgian Quadrupel and Bohemian Pilsener. Neither terms are used by brewers or drinkers in their supposed country of origin. In coining and using these names, what's being said is "We know your beer culture better than you do yourselves". What could be more disrespectful?

But I hate being left out. So I've thought up a few style designations of my own that I'm going to start using.

Mild Brown Ale (MBA) - pale brown in colour, OG 1.045 - 1.060, ABV 4.5 - 6%, relatively lightly hopped.
Black Porter - a Porter that is neither brown nor robust.
Roast Overload Stout (ROS) - a Stout brewed from both black malt and roast barley.
Single Pale Ale (SPA) - any Pale Ale under 5% ABV.
Imperial Brown Beer (IBB) - like a Porter, but over 14% ABV.
Half Barley Wine (HBW) - like a Barley Wine, but under 7% ABV and fewer than 120 IBU's.
Double Dunkles (DD) - dark lager of 6.5% ABV.

Any guesses as to which country these beers come from?

New book

I haven't been spending enough time reading German technical books. No, really. I haven't. I watched 10 minutes of Arsenal - Liverpool yesterday. Too much free time. That's why I bought another book.

Books I lust for, but don't think I can justify before the family court, I put into my Abebooks "Save for later" basket. When no-one's looking, I occasionally slip one out. Into my real buying basket. (What else did you think I meant? Go wash your brain out with soap.)

"Jahrbuch der Versuchs- und Lehranstalt für Brauerei in Berlin, Zehnter Band 1907". What snappy titles they used to have. 700-odd pages of easy-to-read gothic German. Perfect for the beach.

Here's a tip from an experienced reader: indexes. They're dead useful. How else, 15 minutes after ripping open the package, could I have found the one mention of Porter. German Porter. My books no longer lie in piles on the floor. Now it's my obsessions that are piled as high as my waist. German Porter. It's there in the pile. Under Grodziskie, but above Geithayner (another wacky, wacky style).

Usually, I pull out the numbers and make a nice little table for you. But I'm knacked. You'll have to make do with a scan of the original. It's more fun this way, though, isn't it? The feeling of doing the research yourself. Hang on. Isn't my USP supposed to be doing this very interpretation. I'm talking myself out of a job here.


I won't leave all the work to you. Here's the necessary vocabulary:

Saccharometeranzeige Balling: FG Balling
Saccharometeranzeige nach endvergärung: not sure about this one
Extract: real FG Balling
Alkohol: ABW
Stickstoff: nitrogen
Protein: protein
Asche: ash
Säure (als Milchsäure berechnet): lactic acid content
Kohlhydrate: carbohydrate
Stammwurze: OG Balling
Scheinbare Vergärung: apparent attenuation
Wirkliche Vergärung: real attenuation
Farbe: colour
schwarz-braun: black-brown

The first table is for four German Porters. The second table is for a South American Porter and the third for Barkley's Porter (I think they mean Barclay Perkins - whahay). I'm happy to see that BP's Porter (judging by the OG of about 1084, it's must really be Brown Stout) has the highest OG and the most alcohol.

The German Porters look a funny bunch. Poorly-attenuated and quite low in alcohol. What do you think?

That's enough work. Now for some fun. When our teachers said that, it meant some sort of weird beating was about to occur. I'm sure my kids don't believe me when I tell them of our music teacher who "flogged" several boys with a slipper every lesson. I'm glad I didn't understand his behaviour fully as a child. It could have scarred me for life.

One of the attractions of second-hand books is, like Red Dwarf DVD's, the extras they contain. Stuff that was added after the book left the printer. This book has a couple of great ones:


Can you see what I mean? See?

OK, I'll tell you. The Schulthess-Patzenhofer brewery Dessau ex-libris sticker on the left-hand page. And the stamp "Institut für Gärings- und Getränkeindustrie, 1017 Berlin, Alt-Stralau 54-55, - Bibliothek - " There's a story behind that. But I can't give everything away, can I?

Lommi's, Cologne

It was a sad day when Lommi's closed on the retirement of the landlord on 28th December 2004. If only because I'd never visited this legendary pub, despite being warned it was likely to close soon. Hans Lommerzheim had been running for more than 50 years. He had to be past retirement age. It's on the west bank of the Rhine. That's my main excuse for never making it there. And my fear of bridges. I won't go into it further here. Why did I choose to live in Amsterdam?

In March 2008, Lommi's reopened. I'm so pleased: I will be able to experience this cult boozer after all. According to this report in the Kölner Stadt-Anzeiger, new owner Rudolf Päffgen has tried to leave everything as it was. Judging by the photo, bomb damage was patched up just after the war. Let's hope they replaced all the window panes. I'm a big fan of genuine age in a building, but broken windows never look good. Just asking for an arsonist to come calling.

I'm assuming that's a Päffgen from the brewing family who's taken over the pub. Päffgen Kölsch was what they served, so it would seem logical. But maybe it's the rival branch that runs Pfaffen. (I'm a great journalist. aren't I? Either way, there'll be good beer.

Gaststätte Lommerzheim
Siegesstr. 18,
50679 Köln (Deutz).

I have a pub guide to Cologne that, even if I say so myself, is quite good. I've just updated the entry for Lommi's.


(The rather nice photograph was taken by Laurent Mousson. As I said, I've never been there.)

More German top-fermenters

Two more old beer types for you today. The source is "Die Herstellung Obergähriger Biere" by Dr. Franz Schönfeld, 1902, page 65. You can see the original page to your left.

"As Erntebier [Harvest Beer] or Doppelbier a beer is often brewed which has an OG of 11-13º Balling, is fermented at relatively low tempertures (7-11º R [8,75-13.75º C]), lagered like like a Lagerbier for several months in large lagering barrels, bunged and filled under pressure into transport packages. "

This sounds intriguing. The method and strength are similar to Alt or Kölsch. Sadly, the colour isn't mentioned. A shame there aren't fewer occurrences of the word "lager" and more concrete details of the beer's composition.

"A beer similar to bottom-fermenting beer, sweet and malty tasting, can be made from a mixture of top- and bottom-fermenting beer, and this method is especially recommended in years with little ice, when it is difficult to keep the temperature of the cellar cold enough for the necessary secondary-conditioning and maturation of bottom-fermented beers. A fermentation temperature of 8-10º R [10-12.5º C] is selected and the beer is piped into lager barrels and it is left to stoßen [push, bang, strike?] , filtered, transferred and mixed in equal measure with bottom-fermenting, after which it undergoes a further secondary conditioning and is then bunged. Like bottom-fermenting beers, it is filtered and served clear, and is notable for its full body , high CO2 content and lasting head."

Artificial refrigeration had been introduced 30 years earlier, yet there still seems to have been a dependence on natural ice. The flavour was "sweet and malty" like a lager. Around 1900 very little Pils was brewed. The most popular lager style was still Münchner, a dark and malty beer.

It would have been nice if the author had mentioned what such hybrid beers were called. Obergähriges Lagerbier, perhaps.

If you bothered to look at the original text, you may have spotted that I'm not finished with this chapter yet. More tomorrow.

Weissbier and other German top-fermenters

Back to "Die Herstellung Obergähriger Biere" (by Dr. Franz Schönfeld, 1902). How can I stay away from a book so full of laughs?

Pages 65 and 66 describe various special types of Süssbier ("Sweet Beer"). There's very little left of these styles today. Apart from that one Lichtenhainer. Let's see how much of the translation I can be bothered to type in tonight. I may do a part two tomorrow. Right, here goes . . . .

"Special Beers
In North Germany, especially in port cities, a 9-11º, dark, sweet beer is brewed which, after tun fermentation at 12 - 14º R [15 - 17.5ºC] is lagered in medium-large lagering barrels at 5 - 7º R [6.25 - 8.75ºC] for 14 days, also wood chips are often added to speed clarification, and after being drawn off is enriched with Kräusen.

In Hanover, the very weakly-hopped, sweet Broyhan Bier, using 20% wheat malt, has been brewed for centuries. In contrast to Berliner Weissbier, breweries in the provinces make Weissbier without the use of lactic acid bacteria, is fermented with yeast alone, through lagering at 4 - 6º R [5 - 7.5ºC] and the addition of wood chips it undergoes a long secondary conditioning and clarification, is drawn off clear through a filter and is filled into bottled with a little Kräusen. The beer, which after a while becomes clear, should have a fiery brilliance and foam in the glass. The use of some wheat malt or lightly-smoked barley malt makes this beer taste particularly piquant and refreshing. In Bavaria, especially Munich, a Weissbier is brewed from wheat malt and barley malt, which is similar to provincial Weissbier. The use of lightly-smoked barley malt is also found in other beers, for example in Lichtenhainer Bier, a very weakly-hopped beer of about 8º made from light barley malt."

There's some interesting stuff (what an extensive vocabulary I have) in there. It seems to be saying that Bavarian Weissbier was generally similar to Weissbier from other regions.

It always makes my day when I find a new mention of Broyhan or Lichtenhainer. Unfortunately, it only talks about Broyhan in the vaguest terms. Bit of wheat, not much hops. I already knew that much. Irritatingly, though the description of Lichtenhainer is more specific, it contradicts other sources. Earlier texts say that it was hoppy and very smoked. They do agree on an FG of about 8º Balling (about 1032).

I'm pretty sure that "Spähnung" means adding wood chips. It wouldn't be the first time I'd been mistaken, so I thought I'd mention it. Let me know if I'm wrong. In fact, feel free to check the whole translation. That's one of the reasons I've included an image of the original. And to let you see how much fun it is reading effing gothic typefaces.