Saturday, 4 October 2014

Distelhäuser Beers in 2014

Did I mention I was busy? I'm busy. Hence this rush job. It is nice to once the telly once in a while.

"No, I won't be long, Dolores."

That's only a semi-lie. A quarter-lie if I really rush.

Chemie der menschlichen Nahrungs- und Genussmittel by Joseph König, 1903, pages 1102 - 1156

Stack of analyses.

Looking at modern ones from the same areas. Happy me - lots of breweries in Bavaria still and they often include the OG on their websites.

"Almost done."

Searching for breweries near Kitzingen - one of the sources of an old analysis.

I'll go back into slow mode here. It was only when I searched on the town name and saw the image of a distinctive tall, round tower that I remembered having been there. On the way to a brewery tap in Düll - charming, but fly-blown, despite the screened windows. That's the real sticks for you. When they keep cattle in the village, effing flies everywhere.

"Just one more minute."

One of the breweries from not too far away brews these beers:

Distelhäuser Beers in 2014
Beer Style OG Plato ABV EBU other stuff
Pils Pils 12.5 5.1 22
Leichtes Pils 7.8 2.9 18
Hefeweizen Hefeweizen 12.5 5.4 15
Kristall Weizen Kristallweizen 12.5 5.4 15
Dunkles Hefe-Weizen Hefeweizen Dunkel 12.5 5.4 15
Dinkel Spelt Beer 14.2 5.8 15
Kellerbier Kellerbier 12.3 5.1 25
Landbier Export 12.5 5.1 22
Märzen Märzen 13.5 5.5 20
Export Export 12.5 5.2 22-23
Festbier Festbier 13.5 5.4 20
Winterbock Bock 16.5 6.8 20
Frühlingsbock Bock, Hell 17.2 6.9 25
Spezial Spezial 13.5 5.3 26
Distel Blond Blond Ale 12 5.1 35 dry-hopped
Distel Black Pearl Porter 15 5.5 28 Pilsner Malz, Münchner Malz, Caramel Malz und Hafer Malz. Golding hops.
Loch Ness Classic Stout Stout 15 5.5 26 Pilsner Malz, Münchner Malz, Caramel Malz, Röstgerste, Röstmalz und Hafer Malz. Golding hops.
Lucky Hop IPA IPA 17 7.7 77 Pilsner Malz, Münchner Malz und Caramel Malz. Amarillo, Cascade, Centennial, First Gold and Simcoe hops
Source:
http://www.distelhaeuser.de

Notice anything odd?

"A minute . . . really  . . . yes, really this time."

One thing you won't get because I ironed it out: the German styles say, for example "Stammwürze: 13.5 %", the international ones "Stammwürze: 17 °P". Isn't that the same scale.

"I'm just adding in the image."

Their beer range is like a Mercedes with the boot of a - er, what's a typical US car, er fill it in yourself, I need a life, not that great a joke anyway. Notice while the older range has generic names like "Export" the new lot have fancy names. In English.

"Yes, I'm really done."

Recognising the international standard of roast barley = Stout I haven't time to comment on.

"Really, really, really almost done."

Great set of modern Lager styles. And their Spezial has the highest IBU. Of the German-type stuff. Been saying Spezial was a hoppier style for years.

It's just so weird seeing beers from two different worlds under one brewery roof. What does it tell us about modern German brewing?

Friday, 3 October 2014

No time

I usually like to write little reports about my travels in search of beer. But I've been very lax of late. Been too busy.

The Kimchi Farm Festival, the first anniversary part of Truman and last weekend the Borefts Festival. All events I've been too busy to write about.

Maybe you think I'm about to put that right. Well, not really. Sort of. This will be a very brief write-up.



The Kimchi Festival must be one of Amsterdam's best-kept secrets. Held annually on an urban farm, wedged between railway lines and an industrial estate, it's billed as a food festival. But there's quite a big beer element. One which seems to be growing. They have the usual local(-ish) suspects: Oedipus, Two Chefs, Butcher's Tears, Pampus and Rooie Dop; but also Oersoep from further afield and home brewers.

The small plastic cups are a bit annoying and a double measure rarely seems any larger than a single one. The food is quite pricey, too. On the other hand, it's a great setting and it's easy enough to bring along your own food and drink. Which is what we did. Got the best table in the garden again, too.


I really shouldn't be telling you about it. Don't want you grockles clogging the place up next year.

A couple of weeks back I took Dolores for a whirlwind visit to London. Mostly just to drop by the Truman's first anniversary party in Hackney Wick. We flew in Saturday morning and back out again early Sunday evening.

I showed her the high life again with curry down Drummond Street. Seven quid for all you can eat (vegetarian) plus BYO booze from the supermarket opposite. Not even Wetherspoons can match that for value. Then we were off to Greenwich. Not to see the observatory, Cutty Sark, the Naval College or any crap like that. I'd a date for a few beers and a chat with Rod Jones in Greenwich Union. And to marvel at the lovely label collection on the wall. Lots of old Eastern European ones, which are amongst my all-time favourite designs.

Next day I showed Dolores the Olympic Park. "Look, there's the Olympic Park" I said as we got off the train at Hackney Wick. It's true, you could see the back of the olympic stadium and that hideous pile of scrap iron that looks like a bomb-damaged helter-skelter. And then proceeded to drag her through an industrial estate, past a stinky skip yard and along the side of an urban motorway. And Dolores says I never take her anywhere.


Cask Ben Truman was the main reason I'd traipsed over. A beer I've dreamed of trying, I've seen it so often in Truman's logs. P1B as it was called in the brewhouse. Bit more prosaic. The beer didn't disappoint. Firmly hoppy but still drinkable by the pint. Well, if you're a pisshead like me.

Derek Prentice surprised me with the bestest present ever: a 1913-1914 Truman Brick Lane brewing log. I was speechless, which, after a few beers, is a rare occurrence. I'll never be able to thank him enough.

The other reason I was over - apart from getting a chance to meet Derek Prentice again and the boys from Truman for the first time - was the London Keeper. It's a late 19th-century Double Stout. At 8% ABV, it's the perfect afternoon session beer. At least that's the way I was drinking it. We only had a couple of hours before needing to dash to Liverpool Street.


There we dashed around the Tesco, plonked ourselves on the Stansted Express and let out a sigh. Just time for a pint in the airside Wetherspoons before getting on the plane.

Just one event to go - last weekend's Borefts Festival. One of my favourites, with one important proviso: that I take my own glass.

There are always loads of people I know there. Can be a bit of a disadvantage. I'd go to fetch a beer and bump into several acquaintances on the way to and from the bar. I was sometimes gone for more than an hour. That's one of the reasons I take along and imperial pint glass. With three or four measures poured into it, I've even beer to perhaps even last all the way back to my seat. Though there were times I was on my second refill by the time I returned.


There was a bit less cask than last year. Which was worrying, because cask Bitter was how I'd tempted Dolores out into the countryside. Luckily she seemed to like the beers of Närke. The weaker ones, obviously. She's not in the same pisshead league as me.

We'd taken our own food again. No point throwing money down the drain. I have my expensive international lifestyle to finance.


I was so busy, I didn't even have time to take my camera out of its bag. Let alone take any notes. I never do seem to have time for that sort of stuff nowadays.

We didn't stay late. "Arrive early, grab a seat and piss off when it gets full." is my standard advice for beer festivals. We were back in time for Dr. Who.

Thursday, 2 October 2014

Munich Winterbier in 1843

Here's something else I'm glad I was pointed in the direction of: all the Munich Winterbiers as of 24th January 1843.

There are 42 entries in the table, though, as Hofbräuhaus has both a Weissbier and a Doppelbier, there are only 41 breweries. Only. That's still a fair few. Sadly, most are long gone. I've never heard of the majority

You should by now remember that Winterbier was the name given to a lower gravity bottom-fermenting beer which was served in the winter. It had a shorter lagering time and a lower hopping rate than the stronger Sommerbier, which was brewed to last through the summer.

Munich Winterbier in 1843
Year Brewer Beer OG FG OG Plato ABV App. Atten-uation
1843 Utzschneider-Brauerei Winterbier 1043.0 1016.5 10.76 3.42 61.65%
1843 Gilgenrainerbräu Winterbier 1043.7 1015.8 10.92 3.60 63.83%
1843 Prüglbräu Winterbier 1044.0 1022.4 11.00 2.78 49.12%
1843 Bacherbräu Winterbier 1044.4 1018.0 11.10 3.41 59.49%
1843 Lodererbräu Winterbier 1044.4 1019.2 11.10 3.25 56.79%
1843 Zacherl, Vorstast Au Winterbier 1044.5 1018.2 11.11 3.39 59.08%
1843 Hallerbräu Winterbier 1044.7 1016.8 11.17 3.61 62.44%
1843 Hallmeyrbräu Winterbier 1045.1 1018.5 11.25 3.43 58.95%
1843 Hascherbräu Winterbier 1045.6 1016.7 11.37 3.73 63.35%
1843 Löwenbräu Winterbier 1046.4 1015.1 11.56 4.05 67.43%
1843 Ober-Ottlbräu Winterbier 1046.4 1020.1 11.58 3.40 56.83%
1843 Singelspielerbräu Winterbier 1046.5 1018.6 11.59 3.60 59.99%
1843 G. Pschorr, Neuhauserg. Winterbier 1046.7 1019.6 11.65 3.50 58.07%
1843 M. Pschorr, Sendlingerg. Winterbier 1047.2 1018.5 11.75 3.70 60.77%
1843 Löwenbräu, Buttler Winterbier 1047.4 1019.1 11.81 3.65 59.72%
1843 Probstbräu Winterbier 1048.0 1016.7 11.95 4.05 65.21%
1843 K. Hofbräuhaus Weissbier 1048.4 1017.2 12.04 4.03 64.45%
1843 Ober-Spatenbräu Winterbier 1048.6 1016.7 12.10 4.13 65.66%
1843 Faberbräu Winterbier 1048.7 1020.2 12.12 3.68 58.54%
1843 Zengerbräu Winterbier 1048.9 1021.9 12.17 3.48 55.24%
1843 Augustinerbräu Winterbier 1049.0 1019.9 12.18 3.75 59.36%
1843 Wagnerbräu Winterbier 1049.1 1018.7 12.22 3.93 61.94%
1843 Kapplerbräu Winterbier 1049.3 1019.8 12.26 3.81 59.94%
1843 Eberlbräu Winterbier 1049.4 1015.6 12.29 4.38 68.44%
1843 K. Hofbräuhaus Doppelbier 1049.5 1018.9 12.30 3.95 61.80%
1843 Thorbräu Winterbier 1049.9 1016.3 12.41 4.35 67.36%
1843 Leistbräu Winterbier 1050.2 1018.0 12.48 4.17 64.17%
1843 Kreutzbräu Winterbier 1051.8 1022.6 12.84 3.75 56.33%
1843 Gebhardtbräu Winterbier 1051.8 1017.9 12.84 4.38 65.41%
1843 Stubenvollbräu Winterbier 1052.1 1021.1 12.92 4.00 59.50%
1843 Sterneckerbräu Winterbier 1052.4 1020.5 13.00 4.12 60.90%
1843 Dürnbräu Winterbier 1053.3 1023.2 13.21 3.88 56.49%
1843 Oberkandlerbräu Winterbier 1053.7 1018.1 13.30 4.61 66.30%
1843 Metzgerbräu Winterbier 1054.0 1020.6 13.38 4.32 61.88%
1843 Hirschbräu Winterbier 1054.5 1020.1 13.48 4.44 63.10%
1843 Menterbräu Winterbier 1054.5 1019.4 13.49 4.54 64.41%
1843 Büchlbräu Winterbier 1055.1 1019.7 13.62 4.57 64.23%
1843 Högerbräu Winterbier 1055.2 1026.3 13.65 3.71 52.35%
1843 Maderbräu Winterbier 1057.0 1022.1 14.08 4.51 61.25%
1843 Schleibingerbräu Winterbier 1058.1 1021.9 14.34 4.68 62.33%
1843 Schützbräu Winterbier 1059.6 1026.0 14.67 4.32 56.34%
1843 Unterkandlerbräu Winterbier 1061.0 1022.6 15.00 4.96 62.93%
average 1049.8 1019.4 12.38 3.93 61.03%
Source:
Über quantitative Analyse durch physikalische Beobachtungen by Carl August von Steinheil, 1843, page 706.

There are a couple of points which immediately jump out at me. First the wide range of gravities, from 1043 to 1061. That's a fair old spread. Though the vast majority - exactly two thirds - were between 11º and 12.99º Balling. There were just three examples between 14º and 14.99º and one over 15º. The average gravity of all samples was 12.38º. That's pretty low for 19th-century Munich.

gravity no. examples %
10-10.99º 2 4.76%
11-11.99º 14 33.33%
12-12.99º 14 33.33%
13-13.99º 8 19.05%
14-14.99º 3 7.14%
15-15.99º 1 2.38%
total 42

The second obvious point is the poor attenuation. Not a single example manages 70% apparent attenuation. While 16 samples - almost 40% - are below 60% attenuation. The average is a mere 61%. It looks particularly crap if you compare it with the attenuation of British IPA from a few years later.

British IPA 1851 - 1852
Year Brewer Beer OG FG OG Plato ABV App. Attenuation
1851 Allsopp Export IPA 1057.1 1008.8 14.10 6.32 84.59%
1851 Allsopp Export IPA 1060.8 1008.6 14.96 6.84 85.86%
1851 Bass Domestic IPA 1064.0 1012.8 15.70 6.69 80.00%
1852 Bass Domestic IPA 1073.7 1019.2 17.93 7.11 73.95%
Source:
"The Lancet 1852, vol.1", 1852, page 474

Or if you compare them with modern Munich beers. Here's a random selection:

Munich Lagers in 2014
Year Brewer Beer Style OG FG OG Plato ABV App. Atten-uation
2014 Paulaner Münchner Hell Helles 1046.11 1008.5 11.5 4.90 81.57%
2014 Paulaner Münchner Urtyp Amber Lager 1050.32 1008.2 12.5 5.50 83.70%
2014 Paulaner Münchner Dunkel Dunkles 1050.32 1011.85 12.5 5.00 76.45%
2014 Paulaner Münchner Hell Leicht Helles 1030.42 1005.8 7.7 3.20 80.93%
2014 Paulaner Oktoberfestbier  Festbier 1055.41 1009.5 13.7 6.00 82.85%
2014 Paulaner Salvator Dioppelbock 1075.34 1015 18.3 7.90 80.09%
2014 Paulaner Premium Pils Pilsener 1046.11 1008.5 11.5 4.90 81.57%
2014 Löwenbräu  Urtyp Spezial 1049.90 1008.5 12.4 5.40 82.96%
2014 Löwenbräu  Original Helles 1047.37 1007.5 11.8 5.20 84.17%
2014 Löwenbräu  Triumphator Dioppelbock 1074.89 1016.8 18.2 7.60 77.57%
2014 Löwenbräu  Oktoberfestbier Festbier 1055.41 1008.7 13.7 6.10 84.30%
2014 Löwenbräu  Dunkel Dunkles 1050.32 1008.2 12.5 5.50 83.70%
2014 Löwenbräu  Weisse Hefeweizen 1047.37 1007.5 11.8 5.20 84.17%
2014 Spaten Münchner Hell Helles 1046.95 1007.1 11.7 5.20 84.88%
2014 Spaten Oktoberfestbier Festbier 1055.41 1010.2 13.7 5.90 81.59%
Average 1052.11 1009.46 12.90 5.57 82.03%
Sources:
Paulaner website
Löwenbräu website
Spaten website

The average OG is a little higher for the modern beers but the average attention is much higher: 82% compared to 61%. It's even more impressive when you consider that there are two Doppelbocks in there.

Low attenuation is an obvious feature of early Lagers. I don't really know why that was. Was it the quality of the malt? The mashing techniques employed? The yeast of the fermentation process? I've really no firm information.

Almost forgot to mention the style of these beers. With the exception of the Hofbräuhaus Weissbier, all would have been dark. So a type of Dunkles, really.

Wednesday, 1 October 2014

Final league table of breweries

We're very nearly done. I'm starting to get a bit impatient myself for it all to be over.

Everything but the final pieces of text are in place. The covers are designed - I'll be announcing the winner of the front cover typography contest soon - I even have the isbn number. It seems like forever since I last issued a book. That reminds me that I have two unfinished volumes: Newark! and Malt!. I must get around to finishing them.

Don't worry - there are still plenty of tables to come. They're one thing I never tire of. That could explain why I've come up with not one but two league tables. One is based on the overall average score, the other on the position in the individual style tables. The results aren't identical. Where to start? Let's go with position.

Ranking of breweries by position
Brewery Burton Mild PA Porter Stout Average
Whitbread 1 4 1 2 1 1.8
Watney 8 2 2 1 4 3.4
Mann 3 1 10 6 6 5.2
Truman 9 6 3 3 5 5.2
Wenlock 6 3 9 7 3 5.6
Courage 2 8 4 5 12 6.2
Huggins 11 10 6 2 7.25
Meux 4 11 7 8 7.5
Lion 7 7 12 4 7.5
Hoare 10 9 11 9 7 9.2
Cannon 14 5 14 11 9 10.6
Barclay Perkins 13 15 8 8 10 10.8
City of London 12 17 5 10 11
Charrington 5 16 15 11 11.75
Source:
Whitbread Gravity book held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document number LMA/4453/D/02/001

In this Whitbread are clear winners. Unsurprising when they were never lower than fourth and had three top positions. But caution is required because the sample sizes were so small. And it was Whitbread doing the sampling. Where did they get their samples? If it was the brewery tap, then the contest is clearly unfair.

Mann, Truman and Wenlock all did pretty well, while Courage were let down by a poor Stout. Not sure if this means anything, but the top four breweries were all still around in the 1970's. And all but Whitbread were in the Watney group. It's odd how rubbish Charrington's beers were. The brewery was large and doing well between the wars. Were its beers really always that poor? Cannon, Barclay Perkins and City of London.  weren't much better. Was it the fault of poor cellarmanship or did beers leave the brewery in poor condition?

We'll move on now to the league table based on average score.

League table of breweries by score
Brewery average score
Watney 1.36
Whitbread 1.23
Wenlock 0.66
Truman 0.65
Huggins 0.58
Mann 0.57
Lion 0.45
Courage 0.29
Meux 0.21
Hoare -0.10
Charrington -0.38
Barclay Perkins -0.48
City of London -0.54
Cannon -0.57


You'll see that Watney tops this table with an impressive 1.36 average. Whitbread is not far behind on 1.23. Only two breweries achieved positive scores for every style: Watney and Huggins, though there was no Porter from the latter. Quite a way behind were Wenlock, Truman, Huggins Mann and Lion. Charrington isn't bottom this time, but is still one of the five breweries with a negative average score.

Barclay Perkins have the unfortunate distinction of having four out of five styles with negative score. I can only warn time-travellers to steer clear of their pubs. In fact I'd avoid all those with averages below zero.

I'm still not quite ready to let you off the hook. I'll be finishing with a look at each brewery's scores in more detail.