Monday, 19 September 2011

Scottish Pale Ale 1925 - 1929

Tables. Lots of lovely tables. (You're supposed to sing that in your head to the tune of "Feelings".) I warned you I'd too much info from the 1920's to fit in a single table. There's really more than enough for three. You'll be getting the final two today.

The Scottish market was quite different from the English one. The biggest difference being the tied house system, which didn't really exist in Scotland. The majority of the pubs were free houses, though I expect many weren't as free as they might appear. On the face of it, there was more scope for direct competition between brewers on quality and price. Perhaps the lack of the guaranteed outlets tied houses represent was why smaller brewers struggled and the trade became dominated by a few large concerns.

Another difference was in the beers brewed. Not that Scottish beers were necessarily of themselves hugely different from their English cousins. It's more the amount of each type brewed. Scotland, like Ireland, seems to have been out of phase with England in terms of style evolution. But the other way around, i.e. Scotland was ahead of the game.

What struck me about both the Gravity Book entries and brewing records is the preponderance of Pale Ales. and the paucity of Mild Ales.In the 1920's Mild accounted for more than 50% of beer sales in the UK. Not in Scotland, though. These are the number of analyses per style from the Thomas Usher Gravity Book:


Amber Ale 7
Barley Wine 4
Brown Ale 12
IPA 16
Lager 4
Mild 15
Pale Ale 434
Pils 2
Scotch Ale 15
Stout 56
Strong Ale 52

As you can see, around two thirds were for Pale Ale. The Whitbread Gravity Book has proportionally far more Milds and Stouts. Note also the poor showing of Scotch Ale in Scotland. Even worse when you consider many of the samples were brewed for the Belgian market.

Mild and Stout seem to have lost popularity more quickly in Scotland. In England both were major styles until well after WW I. Porter seems to have become extinct in Scotland in the 19th century. Of course, the same was to happen in England, but not until WW II. Scotland seems to have been 30 years ahead of England in terms of style evolution. It should also be noted that Lager took off much earlier in Scotland.

I'd love to be able to explain these differences. But I can't. I welcome your suggestions.

Back to the beers themselves. There are four main types of Pale Ale: 60/- at 1039º, 70/- at 1046º, 80/- at 1053 º and 90/- which, perversely, was a similar gravity to 60/-. I know nowadays 90/- is used to denote a Strong Ale. In the 1920's, it had quite a different meaning. Basically a carbonated, light bottled Pale Ale. Light Ale, I suppose, to use the English term.

You can also see how Export was becoming synonymous with 80/- Pale Ale. Though there isn't a single mention of Heavy.

The averages - OG 1040º, FG 1009º, 4% ABV, 77% attenuation - are very similar for all of the 1920's. That's a shade under average gravity for the UK, which was 1043º.

Time for the tables themselves. One last thing. The Thomas Usher Gravity Book includes comments on the flavour of some of the entries. Mostly not very complimentary, though there were a couple of beers praised. Considering the supposed lack of hops in Scottish beers, it's significant how often the level of bitterness is mentioned.

Table 1:


Scottish Pale Ale 1925 - 1929
Year Brewer Beer Price size package FG OG colour ABV App. Atten-uation
1925 Aitken ?? pint bottled 1010 1039 3.76 74.36%
1925 Ballingall Pale Ale carbonated pint bottled 1011.5 1046 40 4.48 75.00%
1925 Bernard Pale Ale 4d half pint bottled 1010 1038 39 3.63 73.68%
1925 Deucher, J. Montrose Ale pint bottled 1010 1041 4.02 75.61%
1925 McEwan Pale Ale 4d half pint bottled 1007 1034 38 3.51 79.41%
1925 Murray Strong Pale Ale pint bottled 1015 1034.5 25 2.51 56.52%
1925 Murray Pale Ale 4d half pint bottled 1010.5 1039.5 25 3.76 73.42%
1925 Murray Strong PA pint bottled 1014 1060 5.99 76.67%
1925 Murray Strong PA 6d half pint bottled 1015 1060 5.86 75.00%
1925 Usher PA 60/- pint bottled 1006 1038 4.17 84.21%
1925 Younger, Wm Pale Ale 4d half pint bottled 1007.5 1039 28 4.10 80.77%
1926 Aitken Sparkling Ale pint bottled 1005 1034 40 3.77 85.29%
1926 Bernard Pale Ale pint bottled 1009 1040 40 4.03 77.50%
1926 Deucher, J. Lochside Beer pint bottled 1008.5 1040.5 4.16 79.01%
1926 Dryborough Pale Ale 4d half pint bottled 1009 1032 50 2.98 71.88%
1926 Dryborough Pale Ale pint bottled 1007.5 1035.5 3.64 78.87%
1926 Dryborough Pale Ale pint bottled 1008 1038 3.90 78.95%
1926 Jeffrey & Co Pale Ale pint bottled 1006 1032 35 3.38 81.25%
1926 McEwan Pale Ale 4d half pint bottled 1007 1035 40 3.64 80.00%
1926 McEwan Pale Ale 4d half pint bottled 1006 1034 40 3.64 82.35%
1926 Murray Pale Ale 4d half pint bottled 1010 1035 30 3.24 71.43%
1926 Murray Pale Ale 4d half pint bottled 1008 1034 20 3.37 76.47%
1926 Tennent  90/- pint bottled 1005 1035 40 3.91 85.71%
1926 Younger, Wm Sparkling Ale pint bottled 1007 1038 28 4.03 81.58%
1926 Younger, Wm Sparkling Ale pint bottled 1006 1038 30 4.17 84.21%
1927 Aitchison Pale Ale pint bottled 1006.3 1035.3 3.77 82.27%
1927 Aitchison Pale Ale pint bottled 1006 1035 3.77 82.86%
1927 Bernard Pale Ale pint bottled 1007 1040 4.29 82.50%
1927 Campbell, Hope & King Pale Ale pint bottled 1006 1038.3 4.20 84.31%
1927 Dryborough Pale Ale pint bottled 1006.3 1038.8 4.23 83.85%
1927 Jeffrey & Co Pale Ale pint bottled 1004.8 1037.8 4.30 87.42%
1927 McEwan Pale Ale pint bottled 1008.3 1040.3 4.16 79.50%
1927 McKay Pale Ale pint bottled 1006.3 1039.3 4.30 84.08%
1927 Murray Pale Ale pint bottled 1007 1039 4.16 82.05%
1927 Steel Coulson Pale Ale pint bottled 1010 1041 4.02 75.61%
1927 Steel Coulson Pale Ale pint bottled 1006 1039 4.30 84.62%
1927 Usher Pale Ale pint bottled 1007.3 1040.3 4.29 81.99%
1927 Younger, Robert Pale Ale pint bottled 1010 1038.5 3.70 74.03%
1927 Younger, Wm Pale Ale pint bottled 1006.5 1038.5 4.16 83.12%
1927 Younger, Wm Pale Ale pint bottled 1008.5 1040 4.09 78.75%
1928 Aitchison 60/- Pale Ale pint bottled 1007 1039.5 4.23 82.28%
1928 Calder Alloa Pale Ale pint bottled 1008 1037 3.77 78.38%
1928 Deucher, J. Pale Ale pint bottled 1007 1038.5 4.10 81.82%
1928 Deucher, J. 70/- Beer pint bottled 1013 1056 5.60 76.79%
1928 Deucher, J. Pale Ale pint bottled 1008 1040 4.16 80.00%
1928 Lorimer & Clark Pale Ale pint bottled 1008 1038.3 3.93 79.08%
1928 Lorimer & Clark 80/- Beer pint bottled 1010 1052.5 5.54 80.95%
1928 Maclay Pale Ale pint bottled 1012 1038.8 3.46 69.03%
1928 Maclay 70/- Beer pint bottled 1014.5 1047 4.21 69.15%
1928 McEwan 70/- Ale pint bottled 1012.5 1047 4.48 73.40%
1928 Steel Coulson 80/- Beer pint bottled 1010 1055 5.87 81.82%
1928 Usher PA 60/- 1014 1041 3.57 65.85%
1928 Usher PA 1013 1035 2.91 62.86%
1928 Usher PA 60/- 1014 1041 3.57 65.85%
1928 Usher PA 60/- 1013 1041 3.70 68.29%
1928 Usher PA 80/- 1015 1055 5.29 72.73%
1928 Usher PA 70/- 1014.5 1048 4.43 69.79%
1928 Usher PA 60/- 1014 1041 3.57 65.85%
1928 Usher PA 60/- 1013.5 1041 3.64 67.07%
Average 1009.2 1040.4 4.06 77.24%
Sources:
Thomas Usher Gravity Book document TU/6/11 held at the Scottish Brewing Archive
Younger, Wm. & Co Gravity Book document WY/6/1/1/19 held at the Scottish Brewing Archive
Thomas Usher brewing record document TU/6/6 held at the Scottish Brewing Archive





Scottish Pale Ale 1925 - 1929
Year Brewer Beer Price size package FG OG colour ABV App. Atten-uation Flavour
1928 Usher Pale Ale pint draught 1014 1040.8 3.46 65.64%
1928 Usher Pale Ale pint bottled 1012 1040.5 3.69 70.37%
1928 Usher 70/- Ale pint draught 1014.5 1047 4.21 69.15%
1928 Usher 90/- Sparkling Pale Ale pint bottled 1009 1037 no. 10 - 11 (Newcastle dark) 3.63 75.68%
1928 Usher 90/- Sparkling Pale Ale pint bottled 1009 1038 no. 10 - 11 3.76 76.32%
1928 Younger, Geo No. 1 Alloa Pale Ale pint bottled 1008 1043.5 no. 9 (standard colour) 4.62 81.61%
1928 Younger, Wm Pale Ale pint bottled 1010.3 1040.3 3.89 74.53%
1929 ?? Sparkling Ale pint bottled 1006 1032 3.38 81.25%
1929 Aitchison 60/- Beer pint bottled 1009.8 1038.8 3.76 74.84%
1929 Aitchison 60/- Beer pint bottled 1009.8 1040.3 Pale no. 1 2 glass paler than standard 3.96 75.78% thin sweetish flavour with after bitter. Possibly indicates addition of priming.
1929 Aitchison 70/- Beer pint bottled 1008 1045 Pale no. 2 half glass paler than our Newcastle 70/- 4.82 82.22% Does not drink its gravity.
1929 Aitchison 60/- (pale) pint bottled 1008 1045.5 Between 1 - 2. Same as our standard 4.89 82.42% Thin sweetish flavour, but after bitter not so prounced as sample from ???
1929 Ballingall 90/- pint bottled 1008 1040.5 No. 9 Same as our standard. 4.23 80.25% Bad nose and unpleasant flavour.
1929 Ballingall Imperial Hopped pint bottled 1009 1036 No. 10 Same as our medium standard. 3.50 75.00%
1929 Bernard Crown Brand Export (carbonated) pint bottled 1005.3 1049 No. 00 XX Pale 5.72 89.29%
1929 Bernard 90/- (carbonated) pint bottled 1008.5 1038.5 No. 10 Same as our medium standard. 3.90 77.92%
1929 Blair Pale Ale pint bottled 1008 1038 3.90 78.95%
1929 Deuchar, R 60/- pint bottled 1009.5 1038.5 No. 4 1.5 glass paler than our standard. 3.76 75.32% Full, but with rather harsh bitter flavour.
1929 Deuchar, R 60/- pint bottled 1009.5 1038.5 No.6 1 glass paler than our standard. 3.76 75.32% Sweet, but cleansing harsh bitter.
1929 Deucher, J. 60/- pint bottled 1005 1039.5 Between 8 - 9. Almost same as our standard 4.50 87.34% Fairly full, but bitter and not very clean palate.
1929 Jeffrey & Co Pale Ale (carbonated) pint bottled 1007.5 1034 Between 7 - 8. 3.44 77.94%
1929 Maclay Pale Ale pint bottled 1012.5 1039 3.43 67.95%
1929 McEwan Pale Ale 8d pint bottled 1008.2 1041 4.27 80.00%
1929 McEwan Export PA 6d pint bottled 1011.4 1056 5.82 79.64%
1929 McEwan Blue Label Ale 4d half pint bottled 1008.2 1038 3.87 78.42%
1929 McEwan Pale Ale pint bottled 1009 1039 3.90 76.92%
1929 McEwan 80/- Beer pint bottled 1011 1053 5.47 79.25%
1929 McEwan 60/- Beer (Pale) pint bottled 1007.5 1040 0.75 glass lower than our pale. 1.5 lower than standard. 4.23 81.25%
1929 McEwan 70/- pint bottled 1009 1045.5 No. 6 Same as our standard for Newcastle. 4.75 80.22%
1929 McEwan 60/- pint bottled 1006 1039.5 No.4 1.5 glass paler than our standard. 4.36 84.81% Mildest so far received from Newcastle. Cleaner palate than 70/-.
1929 McEwan Pale Ale (carbonated) pint bottled 1012 1041 Between 7 - 8. Same as our Newcastle Pale. 3.76 70.73% Sweet. Heavily primed & lightly hopped. Characterless.
1929 McEwan Export Ale (carbonated) pint bottled 1013 1053.5 Between 1 - 2. Extra pale. 5.27 75.70% Extremely good - highly hopped.
1929 McEwan 90/- (carbonated) pint bottled 1008 1039 No. 10 Same as our medium darkened. 4.03 79.49% Aromatic and rather bitter.
1929 McEwan Blue Laberl Fourpenny Ale (carbonated) pint bottled 1005.5 1038 No. 3 Same as our ordinary pale. 4.23 85.53% Going off.
1929 McEwan Bleu Label (fourpenny / carbonated) pint bottled 1008 1039.5 No. 9 Same as our standard. 4.09 79.75%
1929 McEwan Pale Ale pint bottled 1009.8 1043 Between 9 - 10. 4.32 77.33%
1929 McLauchlin 60/- pint bottled 1005 1033 Between 7 - 8. Same as our Newcastle Pale. 3.64 84.85% a harsh bitter
1929 McLennan & Urquhart Dalkeith Ale (carbonated) pint bottled 1015 1041 No. 11 Same as our dark. 3.36 63.41%
1929 Murray Pale Ale pint bottled 1009 1038.5 3.83 76.62%
1929 Murray 90/- pint bottled 1007.3 1040 Between 9 - 10. Half glass darker than our standard. 4.26 81.88% Soft, but leaving harsh flavour on palate.
1929 Murray 4d Pale Ale (carbonated) 4d half pint bottled 1011 1035.5 No. 7 One glass paler than our standard. 3.17 69.01%
1929 Murray 4d Pale Ale (carbonated) pint bottled 1011 1037 No 7 One glass darker than our standard. 3.37 70.27%
1929 Murray Export Strong Pale Ale (carbonated) pint bottled 1013.5 1056 Between 5 - 6. 5.53 75.89%
1929 Tennent 90/- Glasgow Pale Ale pint bottled 1008 1039.3 No. 9 Same as our standard. 4.06 79.62%
1929 Tennent 90/- Glasgow Pale Ale pint bottled 1008.5 1039.5 Between 9 - 10. 4.03 78.48%
1929 Usher Pale Ale (carbonated) pint bottled 1012 1040 3.63 70.00%
1929 Usher 90/- Sparkling Pale Ale (carbonated) pint bottled 1011.3 1040.5 Between 11 - 12 3.79 72.22%
1929 Usher 90/- Sparkling Pale Ale (natural condition) pint bottled 1009 1040.5 4.09 77.78%
1929 Usher 90/- Sparkling Pale Ale (carbonated) pint bottled 1011 1040.5 Between 11 - 12 3.82 72.84%
1929 Usher 120/- Strong Pale Ale (carbonated) pint bottled 1013.3 1051.5 Between 14 - 15. 4.97 74.27%
1929 Williamson, Broxburn Pale Ale pint bottled 1012 1048 4.68 75.00%
1929 Wright (Perth) Dinner Ale (Extra Hopped) pint bottled 1005.8 1027 No. 10 Same as our medium standard. 2.76 78.70%
1929 Younger, Geo 90/- PA pint bottled 1009 1039 3.90 76.92%
1929 Younger, Geo PA pint bottled 1002 1035 4.31 94.29%
1929 Younger, Geo PA 60/- pint bottled 1008 1037 3.77 78.38%
1929 Younger, Geo Sparkling Pale Ale (carbonated) pint bottled 1004 1033.3 Between 7 - 8. Same as our Newcastle Pale. 3.80 87.85% Thin & characterless
1929 Younger, Geo Sparkling Pale Ale (carbonated) pint bottled 1007 1034 Between 7 - 8. Same as our Newcastle Pale. 3.51 79.41%
1929 Younger, Geo Sparkling Pale Ale (carbonated) pint bottled 1008 1035.5 Between 8 - 9. Shade paler than our standard 3.57 77.46%
1929 Younger, Geo Heavy Export Ale (carbonated) pint bottled 1013 1049 Between 11 – 12 4.67 73.47%
1929 Younger, Geo Sparkling Pale Ale (carbonated) pint bottled 1007.8 1038 Between 7 - 8. 3.93 79.61%
1929 Younger, Geo No. 1 Alloa Pale Ale (carbonated) pint bottled 1011 1044.8 No. 9. 4.38 75.42%
1929 Younger, Wm 90/- pint bottled 1008 1040.3 Betwwn 9 - 10 Half glass lighter than our standard. Half glass lighter than ours for Dundee. 4.19 80.12% Soft, but slightly harsh.
1929 Younger, Wm 90/- pint bottled 1008 1039.5 Betwwn 9 - 10 Half glass lighter than our standard. Half glass lighter than ours for Dundee. 4.09 79.75% Soft, but slightly harsh.
Average 1009.1 1040.6 4.09 77.58%
Sources:
Thomas Usher Gravity Book document TU/6/11 held at the Scottish Brewing Archive
Whitbread Gravity Book document LMA/4453/D/02/001 held at the London Metropolitan Archives

Sunday, 18 September 2011

Alloa, Alloa

Alloa's glory:


Alloa breweries weergeven op een grotere kaart

I hope I can do it justice.

Boiling at George Younger in the 1890's

You've guessed - Scotland again. Part two of our stroll through the brewhouse of George Younger of Alloa.

But let's begin with a little of the history of the brewery. I've nicked most of this from the Scottish Brewing Archive website. I assume that they've got things right.

The brewery described isn't George Younger's original Meadow Brewery. That was too small. Consequently in 1852 they leased the Candleriggs Brewery of Robert Meiklejohn & Co, which in 1871 they bought. A couple of years later the Meadow Brewery was converted into offices. After rebuilding in 1889 (I wonder if that was before or after Barnards's visit?) it was the largest brewery in Scotland outside Edinburgh. Having seen the capacity of their mash tuns, this comes as no surprise. I reckon they were in the top dozen or so breweries in the UK.

This is what the Meadow Brewery looked like:



They were bought by Northern Breweries of Great Britain Ltd in April 1960 and stopped brewing three years later. There's a car park on the site today. Surprisingly, some of the Meadow Brewery's buildings are still there:



One point of interest: they had big contracts to supply the British armed forces. Seems to have been a specialty of Scottish brewers.

Let's step into the boiling department.

"After having witnessed the operations and apparatus connected with the mashing, we next followed the progress of the wort to the underbacks, placed on the sub-floor beneath  the  mash-tuns. The worts are pumped therefrom to the coppers by two brass-lined gun-metal double pumps, fixed in close proximity. Passing up the main staircase we reached the copper house, a lofty place shaped like the letter L, 100 feet in length, the leg of the angle measuring 30 feet by 55 feet Here are to be seen four coppers all fitted with copper parachutes;  two of them splendid and imposing vessels; the largest we have seen in Scotland. The parachutes of the two larger vessels, which are lifted up and down by a chain and weight, are as large in circumference as some of the usual copper boiling vessels. The capacities of the coppers are as follows: two of 150 barrels, one of 90, and the other of 45 barrels content—the latter is used for porter. They are all brightly polished and kept beautifully clean.


The ventilation of this house is perfect, for not only are the walls latticed here and there, but the roof possesses a box louvre 6 feet high, running nearly the whole length of the building. This department represents a most interesting stage in the art of brewing; boiling being an absolute necessity in the operation. The object sought is the breaking up of the wort and the elimination from it of a large quantity of albumen, which we were informed, owing to the uncertainty of its nature—is better out of the beer. Also the absorption of the flavour and bitterness of the hops, which at this stage are introduced, not only to flavour but also to assist in keeping the beer.

It was an interesting sight to see the "boilers," for so the copper-house men are designated, weigh the required quantity of hops and tip them into the boiling wort ; and it was also very pleasant to inhale the aroma of those costly blossoms. we should here add that each set of men perform but one step in the process, and that all the details are performed by an ingenious application of mechanical power, characterising the whole proceedings by precision, uniformity of results, and accuracy.

From the coppers the wort falls by gravitation to the hop-back, placed on a lower floor. To reach it, we descended to the copper hearth, and from thence down a circular iron staircase, at the Vennel Street side of the structure. The hop-back is a fine cast-iron vessel, with draining plates, which nearly fills a room 55 feet by 35 feet, overlooking the Candleriggs. By its side is a powerful hop-press of an ingenious type suggested by Mr. Younger. It is a roller press, something like a sugar mill, having three rollers, and a this machine is that the hops, having been pressed, pass directly into the carts waiting beneath, and the liquor runs back into the receiver. The press is perfectly continuous in its operation, and easily managed by one man."
"Noted Breweries of Great Britain and Ireland, vol. 2", Alfred Barnard, 1889, pages 438 - 440.

Why did they have a boiler especially for the Porter? I suspect it's no coincidence that it's also the smallest. And by Porter I'm sure Barnard means both Porter and Stout. Straight Porter was pretty much extinct in Scotland by the 1890's. And the quantities of Stout brewed were much smaller than in England. Younger probably only brewed small batches of Stout, hence they used the smallest copper.

The size of the coppers corresponds with the size of the mash tuns. Which shouldn't really be a surprise.

It would be nice if Barnard had explained what the "ingenious application of mechanical power" was in detail. What more is there to do other than to weigh the hops and hoy them in the wort? I can speak with some authority on this matter, having done the hop hoying on several occasions. Once they're in, there's not much to do but sit back, have a beer and wait until it's time to end the boil.

Not sure if I've finished with George Younger yet. I need to check how much more goodness Barnard has about them. Just had a look. Still a few snacks to munch on. There will be a part three. Maybe I could throw in some stuff about other Alloa breweries. You can never have too much contextualisation.

Saturday, 17 September 2011

Scottish Pale Ale 1920 - 1924

Time for a look at Scottish beer in more detail. Lots more detail. More detail than you can cope with, possibly. But isn't that what this blog is all about?

I'm kicking off with Pale Ales in the first half of the 1920's. Why? No particular reason. I have to start somewhere. And I've loads of Pale Ale analyses. It will take several posts to get through the interwar years.

Scotland was a strange place, beer-wise. Quite different from England. Not so much in the beers themselves as the names under which they were sold. Rather than Bitter and Best Bitter, in Scotland they used shillings to differentiate between Pale Ales of different strengths. With 60/- being ordinary Bitter, 70/- Best Bitter and 80/- Strong Bitter. All very logical. Except when you get to 90/-. Logic would dictate that this would be stronger than 80/-. It wasn't. For some reason 90/- was used for bottled Pale Ales around the strength of draught 60/-. Make any sense to you? It doesn't to me.

The analyses below all come from brewery sources. Pretty much every beer was specifically called Pale Ale (or PA) in the  original documents. Not Light, Heavy or Export. Because, despite what later style fetishists might claim, Scottish brewers themselves considered all these beers  Pale Ales. Light, Heavy and Export were the names used by drinkers. Much in the same way English beers were called Pale Ale in the brewery and Bitter in the pub.

I'm not surprised the shilling designations have caused so much confusion. Because they don't really pin down a style of beer. Before WW II, 60/- was the equivalent of ordinary Bitter. The sixty bobs I can recall from the 1970's were all Dark Milds. I'll repeat this once again: all the shillings tell you is the relative strength of the beer. Not which style it's in. If you forget this, Scottish beers won't make the slightest sense.

Most of the beers in the table are 60/- PAs. Though not all were clearly identified as that. Their average OG is 1039.4, average FG 1009.6, average ABV 3.8%, average apparent attenuation 75.6%. Retailing for 7d a pint. The William Younger beers from 1921, though not all are identified as such, in the source, are 60/-, 70/- and 80/- PA. Retailing for, respectively, 7d, 8d and 9d per pint. 70/- having a gravity around 1046 and 80/- 1052. This is very similar to the beers brewed in London, where Pale Ales over 1050 cost 9d a pint and ones in the mid 1040's were 8d a pint.

How, in a time when beer strengths weren't public knowledge, did brewers manage to keep their beers of such similar strength? The answer lies in the sources of this information: various breweries' Gravity Books. Brewers kept a close eye on what their competitors were up to. Gravities naturally tended to align with each other.

A final point: colour. That's where there is a difference. English Pale Ales were in the range 20 to 28. I've a log of Whitbread PA where the colour is 34 and there's a note saying "Too high". Most of the Scottish examples are darker, in the 30's or 40's. Or the colour of an amber Mild like Barclay Perkins'. Two of McEwan's Pale Ales from 1924, presumably 60/- PA, seem to confirm the Scottish practice of colouring a beer differently for different markets. Their gravities are about the same, but one has a colour of 35, the other 52. It's unlikely that this could be explained by them coming from different batches or by accident. The difference is too great.

Here's the luvverly table:


Scottish Pale Ale 1920 - 1924
Year Brewer Beer Style Price size package FG OG colour ABV App. Atten-uation
1920 Usher PA 54/- Pale Ale pint draught 1010.5 1034 3.04 69.12%
1920 Usher PA 60/- Pale Ale pint draught 1012.9 1040 3.51 67.75%
1920 Usher PA 90/- Pale Ale pint draught 1016 1054 4.93 70.37%
1921 Bernard PA 60/- Pale Ale pint draught 1011 1039.2 3.65 71.94%
1921 McEwan PA 60/- Pale Ale pint draught 1007.1 1040.2 4.31 82.34%
1921 Younger, Wm. & Co PA Pale Ale 9d pint draught 1013.1 1053.2 5.21 75.38%
1921 Younger, Wm. & Co PA Pale Ale 8d pint draught 1012 1046 4.41 73.91%
1921 Younger, Wm. & Co PA 60/- Pale Ale pint draught 1011.2 1039.5 3.67 71.65%
1922 Aitken PA Pale Ale pint draught 1009.2 1036.2 3.50 74.59%
1922 Ballingall PA 60/- Pale Ale pint draught 1012.8 1040 3.52 68.00%
1922 Bernard Pale Ale Pale Ale 7d pint draught 1009.6 1039.2 40 3.84 75.49%
1922 Bernard Pale Ale Pale Ale pint bottled 1005.4 1042.5 27 4.85 87.31%
1922 Deucher, James Ltd Lochside Beer Pale Ale 7d pint draught 1011 1039.5 3.69 72.15%
1922 Hamilton PA Pale Ale pint draught 1010.2 1036 3.34 71.67%
1922 McEwan Pale Ale Pale Ale pint draught 1007.6 1039.8 30 4.18 80.83%
1922 McEwan Pale Ale Pale Ale 7d pint draught 1010 1038.7 35 3.72 74.16%
1922 McEwan PA Pale Ale 7d pint draught 1007 1039 4.16 82.05%
1922 Murray PA Pale Ale pint draught 1005 1037 4.17 86.49%
1922 Steel Coulson PA Pale Ale pint draught 1012 1040 3.63 70.00%
1923 Bernard Carbonated Beer Pale Ale 4d half pint bottled 1012.4 1037.6 45 3.26 67.02%
1923 Bernard PA Pale Ale pint bottled 1005 1039 4.43 87.18%
1923 McEwan Pale Ale Pale Ale pint bottled 1007 1040 4.29 82.50%
1923 Murray Carbonated Beer Pale Ale 4d half pint bottled 1011.8 1035.2 27 3.03 66.48%
1923 Tennent Beer Pale Ale pint draught 1006 1038 45 4.17 84.21%
1923 Tennent Carbonated Beer Pale Ale 4d half pint bottled 1007 1038 44 4.03 81.58%
1923 Tennent Carbonated Beer Pale Ale 4d half pint bottled 1005.5 1039.6 45 4.44 86.04%
1923 Tennent PA 90/- Pale Ale pint bottled 1006 1039 4.30 84.62%
1923 Younger, Geo. carbonated Pale Ale pint bottled 1007.3 1033.8 33 3.44 78.47%
1923 Younger, Geo. No. 1 Pale Ale Pale Ale pint bottled 1008.2 1014.9 31 0.87 45.27%
1924 Bernard Pale Ale Pale Ale 4d half pint bottled 1013.2 1040.2 35 3.49 67.16%
1924 Bernard 60/- Pale Ale pint 1014 1040 42 3.36 65.00%
1924 Gordon & Blair Ltd Pale Ale Pale Ale pint draught 1038.1
1924 J. Deuchar Pale Ale Pale Ale pint bottled 1005.3 1038.9 35 4.37 86.29%
1924 McEwan Pale Ale Pale Ale pint bottled 1008.6 1039.5 35 4.01 78.23%
1924 McEwan Pale Ale Pale Ale 6d pint 1009.4 1038.7 52 3.80 75.71%
1924 McEwan Pale Ale Pale Ale pint draught 1041.6
1924 Murray Pale Ale Pale Ale 4d half pint bottled 1011.1 1036.3 25 3.26 69.42%
1924 Murray Pale Ale Pale Ale pint draught 1037.2
1924 Murray Strong PA Pale Ale pint bottled 1013 1057 5.73 77.19%
1924 Tennent Pale Ale Pale Ale 4d half pint bottled 1009.8 1037.3 48 3.57 73.73%
1924 Younger, Geo. Alloa Pale Ale Pale Ale bottled 1039.7
1924 Younger, Wm. & Co Sparkling Ale 90/- Pale Ale pint bottled 1010.5 1041.5 30 4.02 74.70%
Sources:
Thomas Usher Gravity Book document TU/6/11 held at the Scottish Brewing Archive
Whitbread Gravity Book document LMA/4453/D/02/001 held at the London Metropolitan Archives
Younger, Wm. & Co Gravity Book document WY/6/1/1/19 held at the Scottish Brewing Archive

Friday, 16 September 2011

Drysdale

Mashing at George Younger in the 1890's

I'm taking my Scottish theme deadly seriously. Just a warning. There will be lots, lots more in the coming weeks.

As a relief from tables full of beers details, I'm making a small detour to Barnard, chronicler of  Britain's breweries at their late 19th century peak. First we'll look at one of the less fashionable Youngers, George of Alloa.

Brewing is a funny industry. Sometimes it settles in obvious places, such as large population centres, like London or Edinburgh. Others it pops up in seemingly random small towns such as Burton, Alton, Newark-on-Trent and, where we'll be today, Alloa. Water is usually cited as the reason for these strange sitings. And it certainly played a part in the case of all the examples I've quoted. All had the gypsum-rich water demanded for  Pale Ale brewing.

Though George Younger had been knocking around since the mid 18th century, mostly brewing strong Alloa Ales, their business only boomed when they got into Pale Ale. They were quick to spot the domestic market for  Pale Ales and were one of the first Scottish brewers to brew them in a big way.

Introduction over, let's see how they mashed.
"By the advice of our guide, we proceeded to the mashing-stage on the first floor of the brewhouse, passing through the Excise office to see the grist-hoppers, two in number, depending over the mash-tuns, and capable of holding 100 quarters; the crushed malt being delivered thereto by a Jacob's ladder. The hoppers are constructed of timber, stained and varnished, each being lined with zinc. The mashing-stage covers nearly half of the first floor of the brewery, and is 60 feet in length. It contains three domed mash-tuns, constructed of cast-iron, lagged and encased with match-boarding, which is stained and varnished. The mashing capacity of these tuns is 100 quarters, and they all contain the usual draining plates, mashing gear (driven by steam-power), and overhead revolving spargers. All the tuns are commanded by Steel's mashing machines, which are for saturating the malt and water, at a heat of about 150 degrees, or thereabouts, according to the lightness or heaviness of the malt, and this brings us to the subject of liquor or water, which plays such an important part in brewing. It may be as well to explain, that the water for brewing is obtained from a deep well in the north yard, which is excavated 100 feet, and bored to a depth of 300 feet There are also four other wells on the premises, used for different purposes. The storing tank is placed at the top of the brewery and commands a large malleable iron water heater, lagged with composition and heated by double furnaces. It is placed in a brick built room 50 feet long, on the south side of the copper hearth, and has a capacity of 300 barrels. On the copper hearth there are two more heaters, both used for heating mashing water, and containing together 400 barrels."
"Noted Breweries of Great Britain and Ireland, vol. 2", Alfred Barnard, 1889, page 437.
A mash tun with a 100 quarter capacity gives you a brew-length of approximately 400 barrels. Have three such tuns and you've a daily capacity of 1,200 barrels. Or an annual capacity of 360,000 barrels. That would put George Younger easily in the top 20 biggest breweries in the UK.

The kit is pretty standard. Cast-iron vessel insulated with wood; Steel's masher (that's the external screw that mixes grain and hot water on their way into the tun), internal mashing rakes and a sparger.

It may seem odd that there were two different types of mashing machine. Internal rakes had been the first type of mashing machine, inventd in 1807, it mechanised the mixing of grain and malt which until then had been performed by men with paddles. Must have been great fun in a tun containing hundreds of barrels.

Steel's masher, or the external masher, was invented in 1853. It gives a much more consistent mix of grain and water and does it as they both enter the tun. Such a good design that it's still in wide use today. So, if the mixing has been done before the grain has even got into the tun, why still have internal rakes?

Two reasons. First, for underletting. The standard late 19th century way of mashing was mash, underlet, sparge. Underletting, or introducing hot water from the bottom of the tun, was a way of doing a simple step mash. After underletting the rakes made a couple of revolutions to mix the hot water thoroughly into the mash. Second, to loosen a stuck mash.

See what Barnard has to day on this subject:

"The object of the rakes, or internal machine, inside the tuns is to stir the "goods" or mash, to make them homogeneous as to consistency and it is useful  for the draining operations  afterwards. We noticed also that the tuns are each tapped by several cocks placed in the bottom of the mash-tun, the object being to secure an equal outflow. The sparging is to sprinkle the goods evenly all over for the purpose of still further securing this object. When the tuns are drawn off, the grains are made to fall through spouts direct into the farmers' carts, which are drawn up in the grains' shed beneath."
"Noted Breweries of Great Britain and Ireland, vol. 2", Alfred Barnard, 1889, pages 437 - 438.

Sparging was, of course, initially a purely Scottish practice. I don't think Barnard has quite understood its purpose, which is really to extract sugars left in the grains after running off the first wort.

That was so much fun I'm going to do it all over tomorrow. Except then we'll be discussing boiling. Can't wait.

Thursday, 15 September 2011

Let's Brew Wednesday - 1868 Younger XP

What an exciting day. The first recipe in our Scottish series and what a corker it is: Younger's IPA from the 1860's.

You may recall the tale of how I discovered XP was marketed as IPA. I'd seen the beer plenty of times in Younger's records, but it was only after stumbling on a presentation by Mitch Steele I realised what the beer was. You can't imagine how happy I was. You really can't. Younger's brewhouse names are so weird I needed help to decipher them.

The traces of Empire are all over this beer. Other than a certain amount of Scottish malt, all the ingredients are imported. Mostly from outside the UK, except for some of the hops. This is a point I've made before but I'm going to ram it down your throats once more. From the middle of the 19th century, British brewing depended on foreign raw materials. It just wasn't possible to grow sufficient quantities in the UK to meet demand.

Yet the style nazi way to define something as "English" or "British" is by the use of UK malt and hops. Even though beers actually brewed in Britain over the last 150 have almost always contained some non-British ingredients.

Breweries like Younger's would have struggled to achieve the size they did without the connection to the British Empire. Both as a market for their products and as a source of raw materials. That's why the hops-don't-grow-in-Scotland-so-Scottish-beer-couldn't-have-been-hoppy argument totally misses the point. Not just Scottish brewers, but the whole of the British brewing industry depended on imported hops.

The internationalisation of brewing in Britain was surprisingly early. Beer went out and barley and hops came back. It was only possible because of Britain's massive trading fleet and ever-improving ship technology which reduced freight costs. These made it practical to ship grain from as far away as California or Chile.

Younger's brewed a lot of XP. A shitload. It's one of the commonest beers in their logs of 1868. In the pages I've photos of , there were 298 brews. 55 were XP. Only 100/- was brewed more often. These are more exact details:


Younger's beers in 1868
Beer Style OG FG ABV hops lb/brl no. of brews
T Table Beer 1031 1010 2.78 1.37 20
50/- Ale 1040 1011 3.84 1.85 10
60/- Ale 1047 1021 3.44 1.22 3
80/- Ale 1068 1030 5.03 2.55 11
100/- Ale 1076 1034 5.56 2.73 62
120/- Ale 1088 1037 6.75 3.81 28
140/- Ale 1102 1043 7.81 4.71 24
160/- Ale 1116 1053 8.33 6.05 3
XP IPA 1051 1013 5.03 3.40 55
XXP IPA 1055 1014 5.42 3.29 4
X Mild 1050 1023 3.57 1.36 2
XX Mild 1057 1024 4.37 2.55 15
XXX Mild 1068 1028 5.29 2.87 13
XXXX Stock Ale 1086 1022 8.47 6.90 3
S Stock Ale 1077 1032 5.95 2.89 13
XS Stock Ale 1092 1033 7.81 3.70 1
XXXS Stock Ale 1129 1066 8.33 8.37 1
1 Strong Ale 1099 1041 7.67 3.70 4
2 Strong Ale 1088 1034 7.14 3.18 7
3 Strong Ale 1077 1022 7.28 3.50 5
4 Strong Ale 1068 1022 6.09 1.67 3
BS Stout 1046 1020 3.44 1.45 1
DBS Stout 1062 1014 6.35 3.47 10
total




298
Source:





Document WY/6/1/2/21 held at the Scottish Brewing Archive.

XP was clearly one of Younger's most important products. I doubt any English brewery outside Burton was brewing such a high percentage of IPA at this date.





That's enough contextualisation for today. Over to Kristen for all the recipe details . . . . .












Kristen's Version

Ingredients

Grist – Very simple recipe. Two pale malts. One of the recipes called for Non-UK malt for the big portion but all called for the small portion to be Chilean. Being fresh out of Chilean malts I chose to use the omnipresent Maris Otter for the big part and then a nice Canadian 2-row pale or the lighter however any continental pale would do nicely also.

Hops –  Two hops. Fuggles and Saaz. Fuggles do a nice job for the bittering but the Saaz steal the show. Be sure to get some nice Czech Saaz and not the US grown ones. Although nice, they have some meaty elbows that will really take away the elegance. If you like that sort of thing, don’t listen though.

Yeast – The Thames valley really does a brilliant job here giving a little boost to the malt to support the vast amount of greenery in the beer. If you use a yeast that’s too dry, the only thing you’ll taste is hops. This really is one of the ones you can pretty much just choose your favorite yeast and be happy with it.