Monday, 11 May 2009

Beer in 1890's Canada

I'm straying a bit off-theme today. I usually limit myself to Europe. If I didn't, things would get just too crazy. But I couldn't resist these analyses of beer on sale in Canada.

Why were these analyses made? To check for adulteration. The book covers a variety of other products such as milk and butter. The beer came out very well. Only one of the 76 samples showed signs of adulteration. The other foods had a much poorer showing.

Anyway, here are the numbers.

Bottled beers analysed in Canada in the 1890's
Year Brewer country Beer Style OG FG ABV App. Atten-uation
1897 A. Keith & Son, Nova Scotia Brewery Canada Keith's Ale Ale 1052 1005 6.12 90.33%
1897 A. Keith & Son, Nova Scotia Brewery Canada XXX Porter Porter 1062 1009.1 6.97 85.39%
1897 Beauport Brewery, P.Q. Canada Beer Lager? 1061 1008 6.95 86.89%
1897 Blackwood Bros., Winnipeg Canada Porter Porter 1065 1010.4 7.15 84.00%
1897 Blackwood Bros., Winnipeg Canada Ale Ale 1061 1008.4 6.89 86.23%
1897 Boswell Bros., Quebec Canada Porter Porter 1059 1010.6 6.34 82.06%
1897 Boswell Bros., Quebec Canada Ale Ale 1056 1006.2 6.51 88.91%
1897 Carling, London, Ontario Canada Pale Bitter Ale Pale Ale 1053 1010.5 5.59 80.34%
1897 Copland Brewing Co., Toronto Canada India Pale Ale IPA 1060 1012.4 6.18 79.26%
1897 Copland Brewing Co., Toronto Canada India Pale Ale IPA 1059 1007 6.78 88.07%
1897 Copland Brewing Co., Toronto Canada Extra Stout Stout 1060 1006 7.12 90.03%
1897 Cosgrave & Co., Toronto Canada Porter Porter 1054 1010.1 5.74 81.33%
1897 Coté & Lanyot, Quebec Canada Pale Ale Pale Ale 1060 1008.5 6.77 85.88%
1897 Dawes & Co., Lachine, P.Q. Canada India Pale Ale IPA 1057 1002.1 7.27 96.34%
1897 Dawes & Co., Lachine, P.Q. Canada Pale Bitter Ale Pale Ale 1045 1014.5 3.95 67.78%
1897 Dawes & Co., Lachine, P.Q. Canada Best Stout Stout 1062 1013.3 6.33 78.48%
1897 Devlin & Steel, Stratford Canada Pale Ale Pale Ale 1058 1017.6 5.17 69.39%
1897 E.L. Dewry, Winnipeg Canada Lager Beer Lager 1043 1010.8 4.11 74.59%
1897 E.L. Dewry, Winnipeg Canada Porter Porter 1066 1014.2 6.79 78.55%
1897 Eaton Bros., Owen Sound Canada India Pale Ale IPA 1055 1006 6.47 89.17%
1897 Eaton Bros., Owen Sound Canada XXX Porter Porter 1049 1011.8 4.89 76.11%
1897 Ecker Canada Lager Beer Lager 1048 1012.9 4.50 72.90%
1897 Geo Sleeman, Guelph, Ont. Canada Lager Beer Lager 1049 1015.3 4.35 68.71%
1897 Geo Sleeman, Guelph, Ont. Canada India Pale Ale IPA 1052 1006.8 5.88 86.87%
1897 Geo Sleeman, Guelph, Ont. Canada Lager Beer Lager 1044 1014.3 3.84 67.50%
1897 Geo Sleeman, Guelph, Ont. Canada Sparkling Ale Ale 1053 1010.9 5.45 79.32%
1897 Grant Lottridge Brewing Co., Hamilton, Ontario Canada Dublin Stout XX Porter Stout 1057 1006.9 6.56 87.89%
1897 H.A. Ekers, Montreal Canada Lager Beer Lager 1042 1014.7 3.50 64.83%
1897 H.F. Brading, Ottawa Canada Brown Stout Stout 1066 1010.1 7.38 84.79%
1897 Halifax Brewing Co. Ltd. Canada Light Ale Ale 1058 1002.5 7.28 95.67%
1897 Halifax Brewing Co. Ltd. Canada Lager Beer Lager 1048 1008.6 5.17 82.19%
1897 Halifax Brewing Co. Ltd. Canada XX Porter Porter 1064 1010.3 7.03 83.91%
1897 J. McCarthy, Sons & Co., Prescott, Ontario Canada India Pale Ale IPA 1061 1009.5 6.78 84.50%
1897 J. Ready, Fairville, N.B. Canada Ale Ale 1060 1006.8 6.91 88.57%
1897 J. Ready, Fairville, N.B. Canada Porter Porter 1066 1019.8 6.03 70.09%
1897 J. Ready, Fairville, N.B. Canada Lager Beer Lager 1051 1009.8 5.30 80.59%
1897 J.H.R. Molson Bros., Montreal Canada Lager Beer Lager 1043 1016.3 3.41 61.83%
1897 J.H.R. Molson Bros., Montreal Canada Pale Bitter Ale Pale Ale 1051 1007.4 5.71 85.52%
1897 L. Kuntz, Waterloo, Ontario Canada Lager Beer Lager 1045 1008.8 4.67 80.31%
1897 Labatt, London, Ontario Canada Pale Ale Pale Ale 1056 1016.2 5.19 71.17%
1897 Labatt, London, Ontario Canada India Pale Ale IPA 1050 1014 4.64 71.89%
1897 Labatt, London, Ontario Canada XXX Porter Porter 1065 1014 6.62 78.36%
1897 Labatt, London, Ontario Canada Pale Ale Pale Ale 1051 1008 5.55 84.16%
1897 Labatt, Prescott, Ontario Canada Porter Porter 1053 1006.7 5.99 87.24%
1897 McDonagh & Shea, Winnipeg Canada Lager Beer Lager 1043 1008.7 4.50 79.91%
1897 McDonagh & Shea, Winnipeg Canada Ale Ale 1029 1001 3.68 96.58%
1897 O'Keefe Brewery Co., Toronto Canada Lager Beer Lager 1043 1008.8 4.38 79.29%
1897 Ottawa Brewing & Malting Co. Canada Sparkling Ale Ale 1058 1008 6.53 86.18%
1897 Ottawa Brewing & Malting Co. Canada XXX Porter Porter 1061 1014.6 6.07 76.14%
1897 Proteau & Carignan, Quebec Canada Pale Ale Pale Ale 1052 1009.5 5.57 81.80%
1897 R. Davies, Dominion Brewery, Toronto Canada Export Ale Ale 1059 1005 7.12 91.55%
1897 Reinhardt & Co., Toronto Canada Lager Beer Lager 1053 1012 5.30 77.23%
1897 Reinhardt & Co., Toronto Canada Lager Beer Lager 1050 1014.4 4.56 70.97%
1897 S. Jones, St. John, N.B. Canada India Pale Ale IPA 1056 1007.8 6.36 86.17%
1897 S. Jones, St. John, N.B. Canada Brown Stout Stout 1057 1019 4.85 66.37%
1897 Toronto Brewing & Malting Co. Canada Amber Ale Amber Ale 1058 1004 7.13 93.13%
1897 Toronto Brewing & Malting Co. Canada Extra Stout Stout 1064 1011 6.96 82.87%
1897 W. Dow & Co., Montreal Canada India Pale Ale IPA 1066 1008 7.67 87.95%
1897 W. Dow & Co., Montreal Canada Porter Porter 1074 1014.9 7.71 79.81%
1897 Guinness, Dublin Ireland Guinness's Stout Stout 1072 1013.3 7.66 81.48%
1897 Guinness, Dublin Ireland Stout Stout 1070 1015.8 7.02 77.30%
1897 Guinness, Dublin Ireland Extra Stout Stout 1071 1014.7 7.35 79.27%
1897 Guinness, Dublin Ireland Extra Stout Stout 1067 1014 6.87 78.98%
1897 Guinness, Dublin Ireland Extra Stout Stout 1068 1014.7 6.90 78.22%
1897 Bass & Co., Burton UK Pale Ale Pale Ale 1060 1004.1 7.41 93.21%
1897 Bass & Co., Burton UK Ale Ale 1054 1007.1 6.16 86.90%
1897 Bass & Co., Burton UK Pale Ale Pale Ale 1063 1005.6 7.52 91.08%
1897 Bass & Co., Burton UK Pale Ale Pale Ale 1059 1005.4 7.03 90.83%
1897 Pabst Brewing Co, New York USA Pabst Lager Lager 1053 1013 5.17 75.38%
1897 Pabst, Milwaukee, Wis. USA Lager Beer Lager 1049 1016.1 4.28 67.28%
1897 Pabst, Milwaukee, Wis. USA Lager Beer Lager 1051 1014.3 4.81 72.18%
1897 Pabst, Milwaukee, Wis. USA Lager Beer Lager 1056 1014 5.42 74.87%
1897 Pabst, Milwaukee, Wis. USA Lager Beer Lager 1050 1011.4 4.95 76.97%
1897 Pabst, Milwaukee, Wis. USA Lager Beer Lager 1050 1014.2 4.63 71.54%
1897 Schliz Brewing Co., Milwaukee (says "Achliz" in the original) USA Lager Beer Lager 1048 1016.9 4.02 64.79%
Source:
"Report, returns and statistics of the inland revenues of the Dominion of Canada", By Canada. Dept. of Inland Revenue, 1898, pages 34-49



You've doubtless noticed the interesting combination of beers Canadian brewers were making: Ale, IPA, Porter, Stout and Lager Beer. One beer, an Ale brewed by McDonagh & Shea of Winnipeg, has a shockingly low OG of just under 1030. That's very unusual for this period.

The end of the table does have a few relevant entries: beers from Bass, Guinness and McEwan. I was taken aback to see samples of Guinness below 1070. I thought it was always 1074.

So many Pabst entries was a shock. I hadn't expected it to have been so widely available in Canada so early. Life's full of surprises.

Sunday, 10 May 2009

Porter adulteration and Porter flavour

I've still not finished with "Food and its adulterations" (by Arthur Hill Hassall, 1855). It provides several insights into the nature of Porter. Both as it was when brewed and as it was when drunk in a pub.

Water, sugar and salt were the most popular adulterants. The reason for adding water is pretty obvious. But sugar and salt?

"The addition of water constitutes the principal, but not the only, adulteration which these beverages are subjected.

Thus the addition of water reduces the strength, flavour, and colour, to such extent as to necessitate in some cases the further adulteration of the beer, and this is usually effected by means of a very coarse description of brown sugar, containing much treacle, and known as Foots, and salt.

Since the use of cane sugar is permitted in the brewery, we did not attempt to ascertain which of the samples subjected to analysis contained that substance, because, had we found it in any of the samples, we should still have been unable to have declared whether the brewers or the publicans were the parties who made use of it. We believe, however, that the brewers do not often employ sugar, since it is alleged that beer made with any considerable proportion of cane sugar does not keep so well as that prepared from malt only. Moreover, the price of sugar forms an obstacle to its use in breweries.

It appears, from the analyses, that salt is almost constantly present in porter, this addition we know is made in the first instance by the brewers themselves; that there is also no doubt that a further quantity of it is frequently used by the publican to assist in bringing up the flavour of beer which has been reduced in strength by the addition of water. The quantity of salt contained in porter is often sufficiently large to communicate a perceptibly saline taste to the mouth. The salt is used by the brewers in the following manner:— It is first mixed up in a tub with some kind of flour—usually wheat-flour—and the mixture is cast by handfuls over the surface of the wort in the cooling vat. It is said to assist in the preservation and fining of the wort, and it is alleged that these are the only purposes for which it is employed by the brewer."
"Food and its adulterations" by Arthur Hill Hassall, 1855, page 631.

Ah, that's it: sugar and salt were added to watered down beer in an attempt to restore its flavour. Though I'm sure the thirst-enducing nature of salt also played its part. There was so much salt added, in fact, that Porter had a noticeably salty taste.

Still, I'd prefer sugar and salt in my beer to the cocktail of poisons and chemicals sometimes used:

"The three usual and principal adulterations of porter consist, then, of water, by which its strength is reduced and its bulk increased, and sugar and salt, hereby its colour and flavour are in a measure restored. But there is good reason for believing, from evidence given before the recent Committee of the House of Commons, of which Mr. Villiers was the chairman, that other adulterations are practised, and that sulphuric acid, or oil of vitriol, salt of steel, or sulphate of iron, and cocculus Indicus, are likewise not unfrequently used, and this both by the publican and brewer."
"Food and its adulterations" by Arthur Hill Hassall, 1855, page 631.

Sulphuric acid was used to instantly "age" beer by giving it the acidic tang of a vat-aged product. It seems that an acidic taste was one of the defining characteristics of Porter and Stout:

"The acidity of porter, as will be seen by referring to the analyses, is very considerable, and this is no doubt the reason why in some cases the beverage disagrees with the stomach, and occasions heartburn.

The acidity is very far from being due to acetic acid alone; for if this be distilled off, the remaining stout or porter, as the case may be, will still be found to be very acid; the acidity, where sulphuric acid has not been used, depending upon the presence of some fixed vegetable acid or acids, and most probably the malic and lactic acids, the presence of which would explain why malt liquors, including porter, are unsuited to all cases in which a tendency exists to rheumatism or gout."
"Food and its adulterations" by Arthur Hill Hassall, 1855, page 631.

That settles one argument: the source of acidity in Porter. My money had always been on lactic rather than acetic acid. Seems my guess was right.

There was a way to fight adulteration: government control of beer strengths. This did happen eventually. During WW I and its immediate aftermath. Though the aim wasn't to stop landlords watering their beer.

"The remedy by which the adulteration of malt liquors may be met appears to us to be clear and simple, and it is one to which we recently had the opportunity of directing the attention of the Committee of the House of Commons on Public houses ; it is, that no malt liquors should be permitted to be sold by any publican under certain fixed or standard strengths, the tests of strength being not the specific gravity of the beers, but principally the amount or percentage of alcohol contained in them.

Such a regulation, properly enforced, would effectually put a stop to the adulteration of malt liquors, by the addition of water, sugar, salt, and the other substances mentioned in the present report; and it need not in any way interfere with the different recognised strengths and qualities of malt liquors now in us, as single and double stouts, ales, and porters."
"Food and its adulterations" by Arthur Hill Hassall, 1855, page 632.

That's it for now on the topic of adulteration of beer. Until I stumble across another text.

Saturday, 9 May 2009

Watered down Porter and Stout

It's incredible what information there is out there. If you know where to look for it. Or, as I did in this case, stumble across it while looking for something else.

The section on Porter and Stout in "Food and its adulterations" (by Arthur Hill Hassall, 1855) is very revealing of the real world characteristics of Porter. As you've probably noticed, much of what I write is based on brewing records. Which should, in theory, give a true picture of 19th century beer. If it weren't for the fact that publicans were wont to tamper with beer once they got their hands on it.

The book has a fascinating table of analyses of Porter and Stout. Some samples were obtained at the brewery, some at the brewery tap and others from publicans. Let's take a look at Stout first:


The samples from a brewery of brewery tap range from 1063 to 1081. Those from publicans from 1041 to 1076. 1041? That's way too weak, even for Porter. For Stout, it's a total joke. Of the 11 samples, only the top four seem reasonable.

Now let's move on to Porter. First the brewery/brewery tap samples:


Even some of these look wrong. Having seen plenty of Porter brewing logs of this period, I'm pretty sure anything under 1050 has been tampered with. Of the beers from brewery taps, only the Truman and Meux Porters look about right.

Not very good. Until you look at the publican samples:


Of course, we don't know which breweries the samples come from. But there's still not a one of them that's right. All the Porter brewing logs I've seen for this period show gravities of 1055-1065. (See table below.) Some of the publican samples must have had almost as much water as Porter in them. I was shocked to see OG's below 1040.


"This diminution of strength in the beer purchased of publicans is only to be satisfactorily explained by the addition in many cases of water, this addition being no doubt sometimes practised by the publicans and other retailers of malt liquors."
"Food and its adulterations" by Arthur Hill Hassall, 1855, page 631

Couldn't have put it better myself. Someone was watering the beer.

More tomorrow on Porter, its adulteration and its flavour.

Friday, 8 May 2009

Porter And Stout, And Their Adulterations

I've already mentioned Accum's account of adulteration of beer in the early 1800's. If you didn't read it first time around, take a look now. It'll help prepare you for the text below.

In the 1850's, adulteration of beer by publicans was just as prevalent, or so it seems from this article.


"Porter And Stout, And Their Adulterations.

The following are the conclusions arrived at from the analyses instituted of samples of London Stout and Porter obtained from the taps of the several London porter-brewers, and from publicans : —

That the samples of Stout either obtained from agents, or purchased at the taps of several of the principal London porter-brewers, were considerably stronger than those procured from publicans: the alcohol, of specific gravity .796, temperature 60° Fahr., contained in the former samples, ranged from 7.15 per cent, the highest, to 4.53 the lowest; whereas that of the stouts procured from publicans varied, with one exception, from 4.87 per cent, to 3.25 per cent.

That the same difference of strength also characterised the various samples of Porter procured from the two different sources ; the amount of alcohol in the porters obtained from the taps varying from 4.51 per cent, to 2.42 per cent. ; whereas those purchased of publicans ranged from 3.97 per cent, to 1.81 per cent.

That in nearly all the stouts and porters salt was present, often in considerable amount.

That in some of the samples cane-sugar and treacle were likewise present.

There is reason to believe that the variation of strength would have been still more considerable had the samples been procured direct from the several breweries, instead of, as in most cases, from the brewers' taps.

This diminution of strength in the beer purchased of publicans is only to be satisfactorily explained by the addition in many cases of water, this addition being no doubt sometimes practised by the publicans and other retailers of malt liquors.

The addition of water constitutes the principal, but not the only, adulteration to which these beverages are subjected.

Thus the addition of water reduces the strength, flavour, and colour, to such an extent as to necessitate in some cases the further adulteration of the beer, and this is usually effected by means of a very coarse description of brown sugar, containing much treacle, and known as Foots, and salt.

Since the use of cane-sugar is permitted in the brewery, we did not attempt to ascertain which of the samples subjected to analysis contained that substance, because, had we found it in any of the samples, we should still have been unable to have declared whether the brewers or the publicans were the parties who made use of it. We believe, however, that the brewers do not often employ sugar, since it is alleged that beer made with any considerable proportion of cane-sugar does not keep so well as that prepared from malt only. Moreover, the price of sugar forms an obstacle to its use in breweries.

It appears, from the analyses, that salt is almost constantly present in porter. This addition we know is made in the first instance by the brewers themselves; but there is also no doubt that a further quantity of it is frequently used by the publican to assist in bringing up the flavour of beer which has been reduced in strength by the addition of water. The quantity of salt contained in porter is often sufficiently large to communicate a perceptibly saline taste to the mouth. The salt is used by the brewers in the following manner : — It is first mixed up in a tub with flour, usually wheat-flour, and the mixture is cast by handfuls over the surface of the wort in the cooling vat It is said to assist in the preservation and fining of the wort, and it is alleged that these are the only purposes for which it is employed by the brewer.

The three usual and principal adulterations of porter consist, then, of water, by which its strength is reduced and its bulk increased, and sugar and salt, whereby its colour and flavour are in a measure restored. But there is good reason for believing, from evidence given before a recent Committee of the House of Commons on Public Houses, of which Mr. Villiers was the chairman, that other adulterations are practised, and that sulphuric acid, or oil of vitriol, salt of steel. or sulphate of iron, and cocculus indicus, are likewise not unfrequently used, and this both by the publican and the brewer.

Not only is the fact of the addition of water proved by the present analyses, but evidence of another character has been supplied by different parties to the Committee above referred to, showing the same fact. In particular, it has been proved that a publican could not afford to sell porter at the price which he pays for it, in the state in which it is supplied to him by the brewers, and realise a profit upon it, unless he had recourse to adulteration."
"Food and its adulterations" by Arthur Hill Hassall, 1855, pages xxvii - xxviii

The last sentence is striking. The price of Porter in a pub was so low that it had to be adulterated if the landlord were to make a living. And could the widespread adulteration of Porter have started its slow decline into extinction?

Thursday, 7 May 2009

Brown Beer available for purchase

Volume V in my Mini Book Series is now available for purchase in either printed or pdf form.

I'm very proud of "Brown Beer". It may not be quite the definitive history of Porter that I dream of writing, but it's most of the way there. There are 180 plus pages telling you everything you could possibly need to know about Brown Beer. Or Porter and Stout, as you probably call it.

The history of Porter, the changes in its composition and strength over the decades, you'll find all this and much, much more. Dozens of tables detail grists and OG's. An appendix contains 11 historic Porter and Stout recipes. "Brown Beer" is easily the most detailed and comprehensive book ever written on the subject.

"Brown Beer" is a book no serious lover of beer history can afford to miss. I'd buy a copy myself, if I didn't already have one.

Buy "Brown Beer" now. You won't regret it.

Single, Double and Tripel

I bet this post isn't about what you expected. Not Belgian, but British, beer is the topic. Let me explain.

On Saturday a nice man from the Institute of Brewing and Distilling dropped by. With the books and technical magazines I'd successfully bidden for at one of their periodic auctions. It was very good of him to deliver them. They weighed a ton and would have cost a fortune to post.

British brewing magazines are frustratingly difficult to get hold of. Bound copies never appear on AbeBooks or the like. Lucky me. I now own a random selection of Brewing Trade Review, Brewers' Journal and Monthly Beer Digest. Spread over the years 1938-1990. But lots from the 1930's and 1940's. They'll come in dead handy for The Book.

I've already had one rejection for The Book, or BAML as I affectionately call it. Not bad going, for a book that's half finished at most.

These old trade magazines are great sources. For legislation, statistics, new equipment. That sort of stuff. I daren't open "Zeitschrift für das gesammte Brauwesen" for fear of being sidetracked for months. So many lovely statistics.

The British ones are a different matter. They are relevant to my current work. Writing the 20th-century chapters of BAML. I can browse with a clear conscience. Here's the first thing I found.
'In 1552 the regulaions that had been in existence for about 300 years, prescribing three sorts od ale ("X", "XX" and "XXX") were replaced in the City of London by a ruling that two kinds only were to be allowed. "doble" and "syngyll". And here we have for the very first time the definitive evidence as to the quality of commercial brews. "Of every quarter of grain that any beer brewer shall brew of double beer, " the authorities stated, "he shall draw four barrels and one firkin of good drynke for the mannes body."'
"Brewing Trade Review" November 1948, page 680.
Great. They've given us the quantity of grain and the brew length. We can make a reasonable guess at the double beer's strength. 1 quarter of grain. In the 19th century, brewers got 85-90 brewers pounds (I'll explain this later) from a quarter of malt. That was pale malt. The darker the malt, the worse the yield. Brown malt, in the 1800's, when it was pretty roasted, yielded 56 or so. Earlier versions probably had a better yield. Not as roasted = more weight per quarter, apparently better yield.

Let's give the Elizabethan brewers a yield of 60 brewers pounds per quarter. Wait a second. 60 divided by four and a quarter. That's 14.12 brewers pounds gravity. Multiply that by 2.77 and add 1000 and you have specific gravity. 1039.11, I make the OG. Pretty low. Bumping the yield up to 70 pounds per quarter, I get 16.47 pounds per barrel, OG 1045.62. The reality was almost certainly somewhere between those two examples. Modest compared to the early 18th century. Even a pale malt type of yield of 80 pounds per quarter would produce a beer of just 18.82 pounds per barrel, OG 1052.14.

You have to allow a bit for error as, a gallon of beer wasn't the same volume as it is today. The current imperial gallon is what used to be the wine gallon. They standardised in the 1820's. Or somewhere around then. I can't be arsed to look it up now. And the number of gallons per barrel changed several times. Between 32 and 36 gallons per barrel. There's not room to be more precise here. The gravities I've calculated are a rough estimate.

How's that for equivocation? Fourish percent ABV. That's a sort of cricket oval figure for Double Beer. About like modern British Bitter. Plus ca change, eh? (My boss has just threatened me with having to teach in French. Need to practice the Franglais, vieux fils.)

Wednesday, 6 May 2009

Let's brew Wednesday - Fullers 1920 PA, AK, XK

No recipes for the last two Wednesdays because I was in the US. Now I'm back, so are the recipes.

To make up for the two missing ones, there are three beers today. Just kidding. It so happens that Kristen has a three-way party-gyle from Fullers. Including one of my obsessions, AK. And an XK. Don't ask me what the hell that means. I still haven't worked out AK.

I'll hand you over now to Kristen.

Fullers 1920 - PA - AK - XK

So this is IPA month but I figured that just because something isn't specifically called an IPA doesn't mean it doesn't have a lot of the same characteristics. Fullers XK from 1920 is pretty much right along all the other spec's of IPAs that I've seen...its just called an XK. This log is from 1920 as you can plainly see so its after WWI but you'll still notice that the BUs are low for all of the beers.

This log is something really different though in that there are 3 beers made from the same mash. This is the proper way to gyle beers. Basically you take 2 or so worts and blend them to make different beers after they have been boiled. Below I have created a simple recipe for the XK alone so people that are less inclined to be fancy can try their hand at it. I've then done a direct translation from the logs of how to make all three using Fullers gyle technique which they still do to this day.







Notes:

Gyle technique:
Its very simple. A strong wort gyle is first pulled off and boiled with the amount of hops per bbl. What that means is X amount of hops go in per the volume of the gyle (lb/ bbl). They '2nd runnings' as they are pulled off with the extended sparge. As you can see by the break down I give you that the first OG is about 1.074 and the second OG is about 1.017. After the boils these gyles are then blended to produce the specific beers indicated....PA, AK, XK. You'll notice that the 3rd gyle actually has a gravity of 1.003 or so. For all intents and purposes
(not intensive purposes here) we'll use water. The pro-guys can pull off some return if they like.

Re gyle hopping
- Each brewery does everything a little different. A good rule of thumb is to follow the pounds/bbl for each gyle. What I mean is that for this specific beer set the first and second gyles are about equal volume. The hopping rate is about 1.61lb/ bbl so for our instance you would add the same amount of hops to each gyle. Remember that the 2nd gyle is quite low gravity which means that the actual utilization of the hops will be much greater than gyle one being about 30bu for gyle 1 and 44bu for gyle 2.

Re-gyle blending
- Its quite simple actually. You'll be brewing twice as much as you normally would be (for this recipe). I've broken down the blends for you as you can see. Basically each different beer, PA, AK and XK, will receive a differing amount of each gyle. For example, if we look at HB metric version you'll actually end up brewing 38L and then need about 5.5L of water to blend. The first fermenter would need 11.31L of Gyle 1, 4.4L of gyle 2 and 0.76L of water for a total of 16.37L. The OG of this, if you have hit your gravities and volumes correctly, should be about 1.056 w/ 33bu. Make sense?

Grist:
A few years after the war sees to it the return of fresh and choice malt. No1 malt is the best they use and can be subsituted for Maris Otter, Golden Promis or the like. Again we see Californian 6-row as it was thought that a blend lended a superior product than the plan No1 alone. You'll notice that there is a lot less sugar added than in the other IPAs but also notice that flaked maize takes its place. They use a 50:50 blend of No2 invert and glucose. Should be able to split the difference and use invert #1 or golden syrup in a pinch.

Hops:
Talk about doggy. Even though there was a glut of hops at the end of WWI I'm guessing that Fullers had a good supply of older hops they needed to get through. Some of these things are nearly 5 years old. Not to mention the fact of where they are from...France and the US. The Alsace should be of the Hallertauer variety. Sourmas...I have no bloody idea but could be something similar to Hallertauer so we'll just go with that. Standard Oregon Cluster hops as per the usual.

Mash:.
Nothing at all special here. Extended fly sparging which means that you had better be damn sure you have your hot liquor pH'd correctly.

Tasting notes:
Floral, herbaceous and grassy. Toffee, corn and rich tea biscuits. Distinctive drying finish with an extended 'strong tea' tannic character.

PA - Stronger malt component with sweeter finish.
AK - Similar to the PA but with less of everything. Finish will be quite tart.
XK - Tartest, driest and most tannic of the three.

Tuesday, 5 May 2009

What I learned on my holidays

After two trips to the USA in quick succession, I feel better qualified to comment on the American beer scene. Though I am well aware that my experiences are just one tiny snapshot in a wall-sized collage.

Let's start with the positives. I'm an optimistic chap, after all.

  1. Everywhere I went, had something drinkable. The includes non-beer orientated places like a hotel bar, Applebee's and TGI Friday. I was more surprised that this was true in Wisconsin. New Glarus seem to have got their Spotted Cow into every bar in the state. Good on them. I've had more exciting beers, but I was more happy to down a few Spotted Cows. It was good to see a local beer so readily available.

  2. Cask beer is widely available in New York. Every beer bar stocked it and every pints I had was in decent condition. That's not a simple or as self-evident as it may sound. Cask beer is tricky to look after and it appeared pubs were making the necessary extra effort.

  3. Good beer is starting to enter mainstream consciousness. A colleague who wasn't a craft beer drinker and hadn't left the East Coast for 15 years knew of New Glarus.

  4. My experience of liquor stores was more limited. I only went in the one. It was way out in the distant New Jersey suburbs. But it had a resonable selection. More interesting beers than I had chance to sample in a week.

  5. Not all beers are dominated by C- hops. I was taken aback by the accessibility of beers like Weyerbacher Old Heathen. Rather subdued, in fact, for an Imperial Stout. I rather liked the more easy-drinking beers that I tried.

  6. The hop bombs aren't as crazily bitter as I had expected. 90 minute IPA I had feared would be more of a challenge to get through. In reality, it was in the same ballpark as the Bitters of my youth. Things like the original Barnsley Bitter.

  7. Specialist beer bars offer a reasonable variety of draught beer. I mean not all the same basic style, which is what you often find in Britain. Though, if I were to compare Blind Tiger with, say, Wildeman the latter would come out on top for the breadth of its beer selection.

  8. The locals are pretty friendly. Even in New York, I struck up conversations with a varity of fellow customers. Including the very nice cheese man.

Now for the not so good.

  1. TV's. Bloody TV sets everywhere. I can't think of one bar I visited that didn't have a TV. That includes the first-division beers place like Blind Tiger. It's annoying, distracting and creates on obstacle to social interaction which is, after all, what pubs are about.

  2. Deafening music. Many pubs I drank in had the music way too loud. At one in the afternoon and just a handful of drinkers in the bar and the music was at disco level. This didn't apply to everywhere. Blind Tiger and d.b.a. both kept the volume at an appropriate level.

  3. Not enough weaker beers. Ignoring the cask English beers, Rattle 'n' Hum had almost nothing under 7% ABV. And lots 9% plus. I only had one beer there, because I couldn't find a second that was weak enough. It was a hot, sunny afternoon, over 30º C. Just thinking about an Imperial Stout gave me a headache.


That's enough about the USA for now. Back to my usual indigestible fare of ancient brewing manuals and 19th-century legislation.

Monday, 4 May 2009

Sunday in the Blind Tiger (NYC part six)

After visiting a selection of New York beer pubs, Blind Tiger is definitely one of my favourites. d.b.a. too. Both are fairly normal. That is, not jammed full of TV's and overwhelmed by overly loud music.

And I've stuck to proper beer places. Yesterday evening I couldn't be arsed to stray far from my hotel and ended up at the Triple Crown on 7th Avenue. A generic bar with a very vague Irish theme. So Guinness and Smithwick's on tap. I had to make do with a Sam Adams Summer Ale. A beer I've drunk a few times on this trip. Just about bearable is how I would describe it. I guess it's a wheat beer of some sort. Just about bearable for one. Which, in any case, was all I could face amidst the racket and glare of multiple TV screens and cranked up music.



Weyerbacher Old Heathen (cask)
The Old Heathen is much the same as when I tried it on Friday. Drinkable, but quite tame for its strength.

Pippi is serving. I notice that's she's lost her pigtails. Pity. They were sort of sweet. Amazingly, she remembers me from two months ago. Or perhaps it's my weird Dutch credit card. They probably don't see many of those.

It's early afternoon and the bar has elbow room, but isn't dead. Absolutely perfect. The tourist buses are still streaming by. It must really start pissing you off after a while, if you work or live on Bleecker Street. It's already getting on my tits and I've only been here half an hour.

I've just ordered a Weyerbacher Quad. I fancy trying a beer style that doesn't exist. Unfortunately, they've just run out. Instead I have to make to with a


Magic Hat #9 (keg)
Pretty bland and slightly yucky tasting. Nice and cold though. It is over 30º C outside. I wouldn't have this one again. The high level or carbonation prevents me from knocking it back as quickly as I would like. It's 14:20 and the limo is picking me up from the Chelsea Hotel at 15:00. I need to hurry if I'm to cram in one more beer.

I've reverted to Old Heathen. That's the big advantage of cask. You can get it down much quicker.


That's it for my New York pub reports. I'm sure you're pleased to hear that. Back to dusty old books again.



Blind Tiger
281 Bleecker St
New York, NY 10014
(212) 462-4682
ttp://blindtigeralehouse.com/


Triple Crown
330 Seventh Avenue,
New York,
NY 10001.
212-736-1575
http://www.lighthousenews.us/restaurants/triplecrown/index.html

Sunday, 3 May 2009

Rattling and Humming (NYC part five)

Sill on Saturday, I'm afraid. The Saturday of my second New York pub crawl in two days. Don't worry. There;' not much left. At least not much I took notes on.

Rattle 'n' Hum
Looks quite small from the outside. The frontage is as narrow as many Amsterdam pubs. And, like many Amsterdam pubs, it stretches far to the rear. I'm sitting most of the way to the back. Where I can gaze admiringly at the Cask Ale Bar.

Green Flash IPA
The glass is sitting on the table a couple of feet away and I can smell the grapefruit. Guess I'm in for a citrus bomb. Not a bad temperature (i.e. quite warm). A bit like lemon and lime. Or alcoholic lemonade (have I used that one before?). It could actually do withe being a tad cooler. It's drinkable enough, but I wouldn't want a whole session on it. Definitely does taste like its 7% ABV and works pretty well as a cask beer.

Fuck. The beer menu lists the BA rating. That puts me off for a start. They have 3 UK cask beers. For those the BA rating is 100% meaningless.


See how sparse my notes are getting. That's fatigue setting in. We're so nearly, nearly finished.


Rattle 'n' Hum
14 East 33rd street,
New York 100016.
http://www.rattlenhumbarnyc.com/

Saturday, 2 May 2009

I do want to go to Chelsea (NYC part four)

We're now onto day two (Saturday) of my stay in New York. I'm so slow. Could be something to do with jetlag. I think I'm awake, but can't be 100% sure.

I was feeling a little fragile on that Saturday. The result of a day-long pub crawl in boozers that don't seem to stock anything under 7% ABV. Now I'm as alcoholically-challenged (probably more so) than the next man. But there are times - daytime pubcrawls are a good example - when you really need to stick to session beers.

In Britain, I'm often frustrated by the lack of anything over 4.2% ABV. It's 10 PM, wet and freezing cold outside. What you really need is a nice strong Stout or Barley Wine to warm your cockles. Sadly, 99 times out of 100, the only beer over 5% will be Stella. In US beer bars the reverse is true. Unless you fancy drinking a wheat beer (which I generally don't), you'll struggle to find anything below 7%. And often half the draughts are 9% plus.

You know what would be quite nice? Somewhere you could find tasty beers at every bloody strength, from 3% up to 12%. Is that such a strange thing to crave?


Stout
First pub of the day. I'm trembling with anticipation, having been told by Mike that this is exactly the sort of place to avoid.

Blue Point Whiskey Rye (cask)
Served in a frosted fucking glass. I don't think they're quite got the hang of cask. Hazy amber colour. Thin head. Nice mouthfeel, soft carbonation makes it almost silky. Hoppy, without being excessively bitter. My guess is that there are some C hops in there. Fortunately, not used in such a way as to make it taste like grapefruit juice. One of the best beers I've had so far. I'd happily drink several. Except with such limited time, I feel obliged to try a new beer every round.

Weird. The bloke in the Manchester United shirt just asked the barmaid what "cask" means. More expectedly, he's sat in front of a telly showing Man. United - Spurs. Two games are on. Half the sets are showing Birmingham - Preston. Hadn't expected to be able to watch Prestion in the US.

This place is a bit of a barn. Rather like a modern British circuit boozer. Strangely, given the pub's name, the only draught Stouts are Guinness and Murphy's.

Andrew will be pleased. I've just got his present. A history of the War of 1812, a topic he's curiously fascinated by. One of the few wars to end in a no-score draw.

I asked the barmaid for a sample of Mother's Milk. It turns out they do have another draught Stout. Make that did. They're out, so she brought back a sample of Guinness 250 instead. It's not a beer I would have gone out of my way to try, but as it's here I may as well give it a go.

Guinness 250
Black with surprisingly little head. Mmm. How to describe it?A bit more flavour than standard draught Guinness. But that's no great challenge. Vaguely milky aroma. A little bit of generic maltiness, too. No roast to speak of. What's the point of it?A slightly different, but equally toothless, Stout. No fucking clue. Diageo have no fucking clue.

Bugger. Man. United have been gifted a penalty by the ref.




Stout
133 W 33rd St (between 6th Avenue and 7th Avenue),
New York,
NY 10001.
Tel (212) 629-6191
http://www.stoutnyc.com/

Friday, 1 May 2009

Mild! - updated and expanded

I never know when to stop. That's one of my many character flaws. The full set would inspire such tedium as to have you reaching for your revolver. I'll save those for another time. My endless need to fiddle with things has prompted a second edition of "Mild!".

How does it differ from the 1st edition? (I hope you don't mind me putting questions into your collective mouth. Not that your opinion would stop me continuing to do it.) There are more articles. The recipes have been improved and new ones added. The articles have been reorganised and grouped by theme.

Not that the old version was crap. Just that the new is even more superistic. And, generous soul that I am, the price remains the same. Despite the addition of 30 more pages. If you don't have it already, buy "Mild!" now.

If anyone who bought the first edition wants the pdf of the second edition, send me an email. You can have the updated version for free. Can't get fairer than that, can you? You can find my email address here:

http://www.europeanbeerguide.net/

When Andrew has time, "Brown Beer" will be available for purchase. That's a real cracker. A teaching fairyland.

Beer houses (part three)

THE NEW BEER HOUSES.

This is a subject of such vast public importance in all its bearings, that we mean to devote a considerable part of our space to its consideration. By the two acts of 1 Will. IV. chaps. 51 and 64, both of which came into operation on the 10th of October, 1830, a change was made in the law, calculated to affect various great interests, as well as the comforts and general condition of the mass of the people, perhaps as directly as any measure that ever emanated from parliament. By the first of these statutes all duties upon beer, ale, or cider, brewed in Great Britain, were repealed ; and by the second, the right to sell these commodities, which had been hitherto a privilege granted by favour to a comparatively small number of persons, was thrown open to all who chose to exercise it.

To any one at all acquainted with the habits of the people of England, and, therefore, having even the vaguest notion of the immense extent of the consumption of beer in this country, the mere statement of these alterations of the law is enough to convey an impression of consequences of vast magnitude and importance. But a few facts will give a clearer view of the exact amount of the effect that must have been produced by the measure in some of the directions in which it operated.

In the first place, the loss of revenue to the government exceeded three millions sterling per annum ; or, deducting somewhat less than a third of this sum as having been recovered by the increased consumption of malt, the diminution was still above two millions a-year. In the three years that have elapsed, about seven millions in all have been given up. Assuming that the revenue could bear this diminution, if the duties on beer had not been abolished, taxes of equivalent amount on some other article would have been repealed instead; and, therefore, the sum we have mentioned may be considered as the price that has been paid for whatever benefits this particular measure has brought with it.

But the remission of taxation, or the actual relief to the people, resulting from the measure, is to be reckoned as amounting to the whole three millions per annum. That sum, which they had hitherto paid every year to the government, the people were henceforth to retain in their pockets, still drinking the same quantity of beer as before. If the consumption of malt has since extended, and that article has yielded a larger revenue, tin's is because more beer has been drunk by the people than heretofore. Say that the increase of the produce of the malt-tax has been one-eighth, which is so much more money that has been every year drawn from the people through this channel, the fact proves that for every eight pots of beer drunk before the remission of the duties and the opening of the trade, nine pots have been drunk since. Either every beer-drinker has had nine pots where he formerly had eight, or nine persons now consume the beverage for every eight that could formerly procure it;—or, what is no doubt the real state of the case, partly the one of these effects has been produced, and partly the other. But, at all events, and let the precise distribution of the benefit have been what it may, its amount is at least what we have stated.

It has most probably, indeed, been a good deal more. Owing to the corn-law, the supply of barley, from which malt is made, is prevented in this country from expanding in proportion to the demand ; and, therefore, when the demand rises, (at least within a certain limit,) the price rises also. Such a rise of price has, in fact, been produced by the increased consumption of malt occasioned by the new beer law ; and that circumstance has, of course, tended to enhance also the price of beer. But there is every reason to believe, that this influence has been much more than counteracted by other causes which have operated to reduce the price of the beverage. The opening of the trade has, of course, swept away the monopoly profits which the article was formerly made to yield. The largely-increased competition among the dealers in it has, independently of this consideration, produced its natural effect in reducing the rate at which it is sold. The augmented quantity that is disposed of, further goes to enable the dealer to let down his profit upon each separate barrel or pot. If he could formerly exist, and carry on his business with a profit of a penny on each pot, he can do so with a profit of only three farthings upon each, if he now sells four pots where he formerly sold three. Then the expense of fitting-up and maintaining the establishment of a beer-shop is a great deal less than that which the landlord of a public-house has to meet. Lastly, .the more active competition which has been excited, and the direction of the trade into a new channel, have already had the effect of introducing improvements into the process of manufacturing beer, by means of which an equally good article can now be produced from a smaller quantity of malt, and, on other accounts, at a less cost generally. What has taken place is, in a multitude of respects, a most striking illustration of the regeneration and entirely new life which is given to a trade or branch of industry, by relieving it from the torpifying pressure of a monopoly, and suffering it to breathe the free air of competition. We ought to add, that in this case an additional relief still has been obtained by the manufacturer in his release from the interference of the excise in the operation of brewing, to which he was subject while the beer paid duty ; and even this has, no doubt, its money value, which must be shared by the consumer. We have thus enumerated six different causes, besides the abolition of the duty, all of which must have tended, since the introduction of the new system, to reduce the price of beer. We shall in the sequel have occasion to examine with more precision what the effect of their conjoint operation, in the face of the single cause pressing in the opposite direction, has actually been.

But to one large division of the community, even the single circumstance which has operated to raise the price of beer has been a gain of no slight amount. The first year the trade was opened, the price of barley rose about six shillings the quarter. The measure, therefore, may be truly described as one of the greatest boons ever granted to the agricultural interest.

Such are the most remarkable financial effects which the change of the law has wrought. It may not be possible to ascertain their exact amount in pounds, shillings, and pence ; but the general character of each, and the direction in which it has acted, cannot be made matter of dispute or doubt. There can be no question as to the following having been among the results of the new system a large sacrifice of the public revenue ; a great diminution of the burthen of taxation ; a reduction of the price of beer, of which the benefit has been shared by the whole community ; and at the same time a rise in the price of barley, of which the agricultural interest has of course had the advantage.

So far all is clear. But besides these results, which must upon the whole be considered as great recommendations of the measure, it has been alleged that the change has brought along with it others of quite an opposite description, and so extensively bearing upon the condition and best interests of the community, that their evil must be regarded as far more than a counterbalance for any merely economical good of which those already mentioned may have been productive. Very soon after the new acts came into operation, this view of their tendency began to spread abroad ; and the outcry it occasioned became at length so serious, that, early in the late session of parliament, the House of Commons appointed a select committee of its members to inquire into the subject, with a view of making such alterations in the law as the case might seem to demand. The report of the committee, which was brought up about the end of June, lias since been printed by order of the House.

The committee was fifteen days occupied in hearing evidence, and in that time fifty-six witnesses were examined, from various parts of the kingdom, and of different professions and ranks in society. Among the number were clergymen, magistrates, country gentlemen, parish-overseers, excise-officers, brewers, attorneys, licenced victuallers, beer-house keepers, master tradesmen, journeymen mechanics, and labourers. The evidence covers between 200 and 300 folio pages, and consists of answers to between 4000 and 5000 questions.

It would probably be difficult to parallel the contradiction and opposition not only of the opinions expressed by this miscellaneous assemblage of authorities, but even of the facts adduced by them, or of their accounts of the same facts. The mass of their conflicting arguments and statements presents as chaotic a jumble as we remember ever before to have met with in print. We see little reason to think that any one of the fifty-six has asserted anything which he did not believe to be true, in order to make out a case favourable to his own interests ; but it is sufficiently manifest that many of them have been powerfully acted upon by impressions which, however honest, have yet been derived, in great measure, from the particular position of each in reference to certain effects which have followed from the late opening of the trade in beer. Thus, for example, the magistrate, whom the new law has deprived of his power of preventing at pleasure the establishment of houses for the sale of fermented liquors, naturally feels prejudiced against an innovation which has so seriously curtailed his authority and influence. The power which has been put an end to was usually exercised, in regard to any particular parish, very much in conformity to the wishes of the clergyman or the resident proprietor, even where they were not themselves in the commission of the peace ; and they too, therefore, feel themselves to be losers under the new state of things, or are opposed to it as sharing in the sympathies of their order, or of those with whom they habitually associate. Overseers, parish constables, and excise officers, side from instinct with their superiors. From all these several classes of persons, therefore, we may expect strong evidence against the beer-houses ; nor, in truth, does the Report disappoint us in this respect. On the other hand, we may not unreasonably suspect that the pictures of the admirable manner in which those establishments are usually or universally conducted, which we find drawn by the partners or agents of the brewing companies by whom they are supplied with ale, or whose- property they are, and by the more ardent lovers of the cheap potations and social cheer which they dispense, are possibly a little too softly tinted.

The Report, however, notwithstanding the contest and confusion of statement which it exhibits, contains a good deal of interesting information. A portion of this we will now endeavour to methodize, collecting as we go along the bearing of the several facts upon the question at issue. The evidence, we may observe, is chiefly if not entirely confined to the great towns of London, Birmingham, Liverpool, Leeds, Sheffield, Stockport, Warwick, Pilkington, Walsall, and Lewes ; and to country places in the counties of Kent, Surrey, Sussex, Berks, Hants, Wilts, Somerset, Devon, Bucks, Herts, Oxford, Essex Cambridge, Norfolk, Lincoln,

Lancashire, and Durham. It is the south and eastern divisions of England, therefore, almost exclusively, to which the inquiries of the Committee have been directed ; no evidence having been obtained with respect to any country parts west of Oxfordshire, or north of Lincoln, with the exception of some portions of the great manufacturing and mining counties of Lancaster and Durham. As to several of the counties enumerated, too, the information collected is extremely scanty and imperfect. And what is very material to be observed is, that the counties in which the operation of the new law is thus exclusively inquired into» are, for the most part, those in which the labouring population was from other causes in the most degraded condition previous to its enactment. With the exception of Bedfordshire, Huntingdonshire, and Northamptonshire, from which it may be presumed the accounts would have been nearly the same as those from Oxford, Buckingham, and Cambridge, by which they are surrounded, there is scarcely a county in England where the poor-rate has risen beyond an average amount that is not included in the list of those to which the evidence before us refers. On the other hand, the line thus drawn excludes all the northern counties, with the exception, as before mentioned, of certain parts of Durham and Lancaster, all the central portion of England, and all Wales. In our selections we will begin with the evidence respecting the operation of the new system in the great towns. And this introduces us at once to almost the only point in the case as to which no difference of opinion is expressed ; but that point is one of first-rate importance. In the metropolis it appears to be admitted on all hands that the opening of the new beer-houses has been an unquestionable and almost unmixed good. There are fifteen witnesses who speak to this matter, and the evidence of all of them is favourable. John Morris, styled a mathematician, but put down by himself, he says, a mathematical instrument maker, who frequents these houses three or four times in the week, or when it suits him, or when a friend calls upon him, declares he can take his oath that the beer sold at the new houses is in all respects better than that with which he was wont to be served by the licensed victuallers—cheaper, more palatable, and more wholesome,—that this is the opinion of hundreds to whom he has spoken on the subject,—and that he never meets at the beer-shops with any but respectable and orderly persons. He never, he says, saw any drunkenness in these places ; " I am speaking," he adds, with great emphasis, " positively, and candidly, and honestly." The only thing that Mr. Morris complains of, is that they shut up so early. " When I have half got through my second pint," he says, " I am obliged to drink it up fast, in a rough way, to accommodate the landlords, in order not to suffer them to be fined ; and when I am there and thirsty, I sometimes could stop another hour with great convenience, and without any inconvenience to myself and family." Mr. John Evans, surgeon and apothecary, who is in the habit of sometimes going to the beer-shops, several of their keepers, he says, being patients of his, observes on the subject of the quality of the beer sold there—" I am in the habit of recommending it to all my private patients, and taking it always myself at any time when I drink." So Mr. Thomas Phillips, called a musician, but who asserts that he is no such thing, but has a small independence, and is of no trade, when asked what sort of persons frequent the beerhouses, answers, " Like myself and respectable tradesmen, and two or three doctors and proctors ; and a few persons of that kind meet there almost every evening—a very genteel party—but we are obliged to leave too soon." The enactment, obliging keepers of beer-shops to shut their doors and expel their customers at ten o'clock, is the subject of complaint with almost all the London witnesses, and appears, indeed, to have been productive of serious evils. " I should say a great injury has resulted," says Dr. Evans, " and a greater proportion of crime—that is what I say it struck me as being, generally noticing things and drawing a conclusion therefrom—that when those men retire from the beerhouses, very frequently the public-houses, especially gin- shops, are open, and they go from the beer-houses to the gin-shops ; whereas, if they were obliged to close at the same hour, there would be less drunkenness, and, I think, less crime." Mr. Penny, accountant and valuer, says, " Myself I have an antipathy to any kind of spirituous liquor, but I have observed that a man that earns a guinea or 25s. a week will go to those beer-houses, and will find that he is not satisfied, and away he rues to a gin-shop. I have actually noticed it in a clerk of my own. He says, ' It is ten o'clock, I shall not go home yet ;' and he goes to a gin- shop, and, after taking a small quantity of ale, he goes and takes some pennyworths of gin, and it upsets the whole frame altogether ; hut I think if you were to put them all out at eleven o'clock, it would be a great benefit.". " I have a lodger with me," says George lush, a keeper of a beerhouse, " that one night had a friend with him ; he called for a pot of beer after ten o'clock, and I would not give it him, and he said he would go off to a public-house, and he went to the Marsh Gate, and he stayed till half-past eleven, and he came home, and I was obliged to lead him to bod." Thomas Ellis, another retailer of beer, says, " I have turned out as many as 120 out of my house at ten o'clock at night, and I have gone into the three neighbouring gin-shops and counted 54 out of those 120."

Even in London, however, where the practice has been hitherto by far most prevalent, there is reason to believe that spirit-drinking is beginning to give way before the increased consumption of beer, which has followed the opening of the trade in the latter article. Mr. W. Kimber, broker, of Lambeth, being asked if he is in the habit of going to beer-houses, replies, " Yes, I make a point of going there, for I enjoy the ale much better than I do at other places. Before I used to go there, I used to take a good deal of spirits ; and since I have been in the habit of going there, I have not taken any spirits, and my health is better in consequence." William Keay, foreman to Mr. Nunn, coachmaker, in Westminster Bridge Road, states that his men, who now drink ale at the beer-house (for that is the common beverage there), used to drink a good deal of gin formerly when they drank porter, and that they now drink more beer and less spirits. Dr. Evans also asserts, that among mechanics and artisans, the habit of spirit- drinking has very much diminished. So Mr. Farren, brewer, at Nine Elms, vauxhall, says, " I apprehend there are a great many people that were in the habit of drinking grog, that now drink ale instead."

Mr. Farren's evidence is extremely interesting, in reference to various points connected with the operation of the new law. He states that he brews entirely for the beer- shops, and is the only brewer in London whose business is exclusively confined to that branch. Such is the revolution, however, that has been occasioned in the trade generally, that " Barclay and Perkins," he says, " and other great houses, finding that there is a decrease in the consumption of porter, and an increase of the consumption of ale, have gone into the ale trade ; nearly all the new trade is composed of mild ale." From all that he has seen, Mr. Farren asserts that the conduct of the persons who have taken out licenses to keep beer-shops in London has been perfectly orderly. " I have got," he adds, " between forty and fifty customers, and I do not think there is one but what is perfectly respectable." The ale sold in these houses is by no means all of London manufacture. This witness states that the average quantity of Scotch ale imported into London is 2,150 barrels a week; that there is hardly a beer-house but what takes in Scotch ale, in addition to the brewers' ale ; and that there is also ale brought from almost every county in England, and a vast quantity of porter from Dublin. To fit up a London beer-house respectably will cost from 100/- to 300/-, and their rents may average 40/- a year each. At first, as was naturally to be expected, there was a rush into the new trade, and any mischief that resulted might be fairly imputed to its having been in this way overdone. But that evil has since in a great degree, if not completely, corrected itself. It appears that in the first three months after the bill came into operation, 1508 licenses were taken out in London : in the year 1831 the number taken out was 1407 ; and in 1832 it was only 1200. " Of the 1503 licenses granted in the first quarter," says Mr. Farren, " I am of opinion that not less tnan 800 were taken out by chandler-shop keepers, who had previously been privileged to sell beer not exceeding a certain price, without license. Allowing then for the licenses applicable to that class of persons, there would remain 708 licenses taken out by individuals who went into the new trade. I apprehend that there has been little or no diminution in the number of licenses taken out by chandler-shop keepers ; and, therefore, deducting 800 for chandler-shops from the 1206 licenses granted in the year ending 5th January, 1833, there would remain only 406 licenses for beer-house keepers." Upon this calculation, then, we have a reduction on the number of the new retailers, in fifteen months, of 302 out of 708, or more than forty-two per cent. It is probable that the trade has now found its level.

Mr. Farren enters into some details, which set in a striking light the amount of the consumption of beer in London, as compared with other parts of the kingdom. If the comparison be even confined to England and Wales (and this we think is the fair view, there being little ale drunk by the great body of the inhabitants of either Scotland or Ireland), it appears that the consumption of London and its immediate vicinity is not much less than twice what it would be were it proportioned to the population. The population of London and its dependencies is not quite one-ninth of the population of all England and Wales ; but the consumption of beer in this district is not much under one-fifth of the whole consumption of the country. If all the beer brewed and consumed within ten miles of London were taken into the, account, Mr. Farren is of opinion that the rate of consumption in the metropolitan district would be greatly augmented.

There is, as we have said, no evidence of any evil or inconvenience whatever having followed the opening of the beer trade in London. On the contrary, all the witnesses examined by the Committee agree in stating that great benefits have attended the measure. The price of beer has unquestionably been reduced by more than the difference occasioned by the removal of the tax ; though it is not easy to ascertain the exact amount of the reduction, owing partly to the circumstance that the descriptions of beverage now sold are not the same with those that were in demand, or rather which the public were forced to be contented with, before the opening of the trade. It appears from the evidence of several of the witnesses, that many of the public-houses still charge their customers about a penny on the pot more than they would be charged for liquor of the same quality at the beer-shops. One beer-shop keeper says that he has got some at 6d. a pot that you cannot get for 7d. at a public- house. Another witness says that for a mixture of ale and porter for which before the remission of the tax he used to pay 7d. at the public-house, he now pays only 5d. at the beer-shop. Another, who is a dealer, states that he sells ale for 6d. a pot, for which, before the passing of the beer-bill, he used himself invariably to pay 9d. From Mr. Farren's evidence, it appears that the reduction made by the brewers to their customers has been 12s. on the barrel, being 3s. more than the amount of the duty. Upon the whole it would seem that, in addition to the duty amounting to about 1d. on the pot, the average reduction upon all sorts of ale, as sold at the beer-shops, has been nearly 1d. more. The price varies, however, in different parts of the country, and, perhaps, also in différents districts of town ; and it is to be recollected that it is, in most cases, higher at the public-houses than at the beer-shops. In the neighbourhood of Boston, in Lincolnshire, for instance, one witness states that the same beer which is sold for 6d. in the former may be had for 4d. in the latter. There are some attempts on the part of other witnesses to make it appear that the cheaper beverage is of an inferior quality ; but the weight of evidence is greatly on the other side.

When we leave London, however, and proceed to the other great towns comprehended in the inquiry, we find the statements of the different witnesses more unsatisfactory. Of Birmingham, for instance, we have a most favourable account; but as it comes from the principal agent of a company of brewers, by whom most of the beer-houses throughout the town and its vicinity are supplied with ale, and by whom many of them have been set up, it may be thought to bo liable to objection, in the absence of any corroborative testimony. Mr. Dawes, the witness in question, states that the company with which he is connected had then (in May last) opened two hundred beerhouses in Birmingham and the country within eight or ten miles round, and that they had refused an equal number of applications from other parties. The reduction that has taken place, in the price of beer, he rates at from 15 to 25 per cent.,'independently of the amount of the duty'. The duty having been 0.75d. a quart, it has fallen, he says, If 1.75d. altogether. The beer-houses have, besides, afforded accommodation to travellers of a certain description, which before they could not procure except at an exorbitant rate, and sometimes not at all. This is corroborated by other witnesses. Drunkenness in Birmingham, Mr. Dawes says, has diminished since the opening of the beer-houses ; and that as to the new law having been the cause of an increase of crime, there 'is not the most remote idea of anything of the kind in that town. The rent of the heer-houses there is in general 10/. and upwards. Spirit-drinking, the witness thinks, has considerably decreased. So greatly are the beer-shops appreciated, he says, by the labouring classes, that they could have got up a petition in their favour, signed by females alone, to the number of 10,000 or 20,000 ;—" in this kind of way," he adds, however, in explanation, " if they could have got it (the beer) to take home with them."

The evidence with respect to the town of Warwick, on the contrary, in the same county, represents the beer-shops as having been the source of all sorts of evils. The witness here is a police officer of the borough. Speaking of the effects of the new system, " I find," he says in difieren! parts of his evidence, " that crime has increased a great deal in the neighbourhood;—common prostitutes, common thieves, and boys, are suffered to go to',the beer-houses, and tipple and drink at all hours of the night ;—I have apprehended a great many boys; and when I have had conversation with them, I have found that they have been seduced into crime by the low characters that they met at these beer-houses, that would not have been allowed to go into the old public-houses." He conceives that the beer-shops are operating with injurious"effect even upon the old public-houses, and driving their landlords, in order that they may be enabled to keep their ground, to permit the same disorders which are tolerated by their competitors.

The evidence with regard to Liverpool is nearly of the same complexion. It comes from two witnesses, one a publican, the other a wholesale and retail dealer in wine and spirits. The former thinks the consumption of spirits has increased since the opening of the beer-shops (which he says are called Jerry-shops in Liverpool), and that the consumption of beer, in his opinion, has not increased at all. The other witness mentions an evil which is not, we believe, noticed in any other part of the Report. The owners of the beer-shops in Liverpool, he says, " generally consist of persons who employ large bodies of labouring men, being themselves labouring men, either in the capacity of foreman or master of such men as undertake contracts for large excavations at the docks, and employing men in the discharge of vessels, who are technically called in Liverpool ' lumpers ;' and those men always give the preference to those persons who frequent their beer-houses ; and in some instances, it has come to my knowledge from the working men themselves, that they have complained very much of the operation of the beer-bill, as they have been compelled to spend a portion of their earnings at the beer-houses." The only two classes, he states, in Liverpool, who have been affected by the change, are the Irish labourers, and younjj men in the lower walks of life, of the age of fifteen and upwards, both of which classes, comprising large numbers, have become in consequence much more dissolute and drunken. The evidence as to Sheffield, which is given by Mr. George Wells, now a solicitor, and lately in the magistrates' clerks' office, in that town, is equally unfavourable. The number of beer-houses in Sheffield on tho 1st of February last, was 280 ; that of the public-houses being 386. Tho rents of the beer-houses are nearly all under 10/. a year. Spirits are understood to be sold in 'them covertly ; gaming is not unfrequently permitted ; and it is no uncommon thing for the outer door to be fastened at night, while the company remain till eleven or twelve o'clock. The number of dram-shops has increased fourfold since the beer act passed. The thieves have also increased. We have the same kind of evidence as to Leeds, from the mayor of the town, and the chief constable of the town. According to the latter, there are in Leeds 280 licensed ale-houses, and 251 beer-shops, of which last the rent varies from about 5l. to about 20/. This witness also produces a statement, by which it appears that, during the three years before the beer bill was in operation, 639 persons only .were brought before the magistrates for being drunk, being at the rate of 213 in the year; whereas, in the first 31 months after the opening of the trade, the number was 2023, being at the rate of 783 annually, or not much under .four times as many as formerly. By an analysis of this curious document, we further find that the increase of drunken cases has taken place to the greatest extent among females under twenty-one years of age, of whom there are now more than six that get drunk for one that did for

merly. The next greatest increase is among males under twenty-one ; it appears to be from 1 to 4"235. Among males above twenty-one, the increase is from 1 to 3745 j and among females above twenty-one, it is from 1 to 2'423. If the accuracy of this document is to be depended on, the results which it shows are certainly appalling ; and it is not to be denied that such a statement seems to go far to establish the position, that, in some places, the first experience of the new system has been eminently disastrous. We should like, however, to know what measures have been resorted to by the magistrates to repress this growing dissipation—in how many of the drunken cases brought before them they have imposed any punishment upon the offenders—and whftt means, if any, they have taken to keep the beer-houses within their jurisdiction in order, and to apply to them those restraints which the same law that has established them has provided for their regulation. Is the police of the town sufficiently strong? or, being strong enough, is it sufficiently active in this part of its duty ?

We cannot now enter at any length into an analysis of the voluminous evidence collected by the committee, with regard to the effect of the opening of the beer trade in the country. Suffice it to state, that the principal evils which are alleged to have attended the measure are the same which its opponents charge it with having produced in the towns. It is asserted to have occasioned a large increase of drunkenness, profligacy, and crime among the mass of the population—to have engendered in some places habits of turbulence and disinclination to work among the labouring classes—and generally to have contributed powerfully to the initiation into dissipated habits of young people and children. The circumstance that beer-houses are often opened in retired lanes, in woods, on heaths, and in other places remote from observation, is dwelt upon by many of the witnesses as pregnant with the worst consequences. In the country the police is usually still more inefficient than in towns, in most of which it is extremely inadequate ; and the difficulty of keeping the beer-shops in order is accordingly greater. In some cases, the poor-rates are stated to have been augmented by the increased idleness and immorality which the change in the law has occasioned ; and the wives of the labourers are represented as in general complaining bitterly of what its operation has been, in so far as they and tlieir families are concerned, considerably less of what their husbands earn now finding its way to the baker and the grocer than formerly, since the beer-shop keeper has come in for his share. It would rather appear that, not only the clergy and the landlords, but the farmers also are, in general, strongly opposed to the new system.

We have ño wish to conceal or overlook these statements, although they are not very specific, and are probably in a considerable degree coloured by the influence of prejudices, natural to the quarters from which they proceed. Allowing them, however, all the weight which they can fairly claim, we must not forget many other important considerations which bear upon the question. It is pretty evident, from the various accounts we have quoted, that the opening of the new beer-houses has not been attended, in some places, with any of the injurious effects which it is alleged to have produced in others. In London, and we would also say, in Birmingham, it appears to be allowed on all hands to have been quite innocuous. One chief reason of this we believe to be, that in both these places the system of police is of a very superior order, and the duties of the magistracy are performed with a diligence and regularity quite unknown in most rural districts, and equalled even in very few of our other great towns. Indeed, throughout the greater part of England, a police can hardly be said to exist, either in our villages, or m our third and fourth- rate towns. Hence in a great degree both tho disorders of beer-houses, and the prevalence of crime in general. We quite believe the statements of many of the witnesses, magistrates, and others, as to the extreme difficulty that is found in many places in keeping a sufficient watch over these houses, and even in suppressing disorders when known to take place in them. The people of England are prejudiced and wronghcaded upon this subject to a very remarkable degree. They imagine that much of the essence of the liberties and happiness of the country consists in the absence of a police. There never was a greater mistake. A police, properly constituted, is the good citizen's best protection. Should we be the freer if we had 110 laws to restrain. and punish criminals ? But what is the use of laws without a force to make them be obeyed ? If the latter be objected to, the former ought also to be dispensed with. But the chief folly is, that, if a judgment may be formed from our practice, it is not a police which we dislike, but a good or efficient police. The mere form of the thing we have a great attachment to ; deeming a constabulary force which is incapable of doing any service, or is never called upon to act, to be indispensable to our humblest parishes. By the plan which we pursue, we entail upon ourselves the very evils which it is our wish to avoid. With a good police we might safely have milder laws, and more liberty in divers ways than we actually have. Such an instrument would much more effectually prevent the commission of ccimes by watching criminals, than we now do by sending them to the treadmill, to Botany Bay, or to the gallows. Would fewer executions, fewer imprisonments, and fewer punishments of all sorts, imply any diminution of the public liberties ? And was such a law as that, which, till lately, regulated the sale of beer in England, one of a particularly liberal and popular character? On the contrary, no system could have been devised more intensely aristocratic and coercive. And yet the chief, perhaps the only danger attendant upon the abolition of this tyranny, is created by our want of a regular police to see to the prevention of disorder, in the room of the capricious and irresponsible despotism to which we used to be subjected.

What the beer-houses want, in our opinion, where the new law is alleged to have operated injuriously, is merely to be somewhat better looked after. A return to the old regime of the magistracy is quite out of the question. We have got rid for ever of that machinery of oppression, favouritism, and jobbing, and must now have fixed rules by which to proceed in this matter, and no more mere arbitrary dictation. Let the beer-houses, if necessary, be put under stricter regulations—they cannot be put down. The right of any man to obtain a license to sell beer, under certain specified conditions, must be preserved. It is upon these principles that the act has been framed which was passed by parliament towards the close of the late session. By this statute it is provided, first, that every person applying hereafter for a beer license shall, along with his application, produce a certificate signed by six rated inhabitants of the parish, to the effect that the applicant is a person of good character, and likely to manage a house for the sale of beer or cider by retail, in a peaceable, orderly, and respectable manner. Upon presenting such a certificate, with the attestation of one of the overseers, that the persons subscribing it are really rated parishioners, the applicant is to obtain his license as a matter of course. Secondly, the duty is raised from its present amount of two guineas to five pounds. This alteration of the law will probably do something to exclude the more necessitous and irresponsible class of applicants, and to confine the trade to persons of some substance and respectability. The penalties for misconduct are also made more severe, it being now competent for the justices, in addition to the fine, to disqualify the offender for selling beer for a period of two years on a second conviction, instead of only on a third, as before ; and on a third conviction to disqualify him for ever. Lastly, the old law is amended in those of its provisions which referred to the hours during which beer-houses might be kept open ; it being now (very properly, we think) enacted that they shall not be open for beer to be drunk on the premises on any Sunday, Good- Friday, Christmas-Day, or day appointed for a public fast or thanksgiving, before half-past twelve in the afternoon, nor at all between ten in the morning and that hour. They were formerly allowed to be open on such days, as usual, from four till ten in the morning. They are still, as before, to be shut again from three till five in the afternoon. And it is enacted that the justices of the peace, in quarter-sessions, shall have the power to fix, once in each year, the hour at which they shall be closed at night on every other day ; provided that the hour so fixed shall not, in any town, be earlier than ten o'clock or later than eleven ; or in any country district earlier than nine or later than ten.

These alterations are all, we think, improvements upon the former act; and we are not disposed to say that it would have been wise to have gone farther in the way of limiting the mere right to open a house for the sale of beer. The committee, in their report, proposed, in addition to the restrictions which have been adopted, that the applicant should require to be rated to the parish at a certain amount, varying between 71. and 15/., to be fixed for every town or parish by the magistrates at quarter-sessions ; but this would have been a power extremely liable to be abused, and it has therefore been wisely withheld. We concur, however, in another recommendation of the committee, to the effect that it is expedient that the system under which all houses are licensed for the retail of beer and spirituous liquors, should be revised in a future session of parliament ; and we believe, with the Committee, that very serious reasons of justice and public advantage may be adduced in favour of an assimilation of all the regulations, as to hours and management, to which every description of house licensed to sell beer or spirituous liquors by retail should be subjected.


"The Companion to the Newspaper" By Society for the Diffusion of Political Knowledge
Published by Charles Knight, 1834, pages 152-156
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