Salvador

I awake at 10 AM. Amsterdam time. Which is 6 AM here. I’ve only had four hours sleep. I go downstairs for breakfast. No bacon, sadly. I make do with scrambled egg, ham and cheese. With some fruit for pudding.

A breakfast of scrambled egg,  ham, cheese, cheese ball things, cashew juice and coffee.

I notice it's pissing it down outside. In a way that’s only possible in the tropics.

Then I go back to bed for another four hours. No problem sleeping. Despite two cups of coffee with breakfast.

I rise a second time around 10 AM local time. And watch Match of the Day from Saturday. I’m so glad I had that kip. I feel much better now. Ready to rush down to the beach.

Except it's still pissing it down. Not much of an incentive to wander out. So, I don’t. At least, not initially.

After some laptop fiddling, I'm feeling a bit hungry. And I need some hotel drinks. There's a little supermarket just around the corner. It's still raining, but just a mizzle I think I can cope with that. Living in Amsterdam, where it’s always either raining, just rained or about to rain.

I get myself a few essentials for my room. Water, cheese, tomatoes and stupidly cheap cachaca. It’s a little over 2 euros for almost a litre.

On the way to the shop, I noticed a few little bars. That'll do for some food. Which it does. I randomly choose B & C Bar e Restaurant. No caipirinhas, I’m afraid. I get a big bottle of Brahma instead. Which is fine, if you drink it while it's still cold.

B & C Bar in Salvador tables  and counter.

Looking at the menu on a chalkboard, I don't fancy chicken The cheapest dish is figado. Which my phone tells me is liver. Sounds perfect. I love liver.

It comes fried with onions. Accompanied by rice and beans. Though not black beans, unusually. There’s also a really spicy green sauce. It's all pretty damn tasty. And costs under three euros.

Liver and onions, rice and beans, glass of beer.

Looking around, there are around half a dozen similar little bars on this short section of side street. Typical Brazilian lunch places. As it’s after 2 PM, they’re starting to empty out and close.

Two workmen throw their leftover bones to a well-fed stray dog. A cockroach the size of a small mouse strolls nonchalantly past my feet. Rain gently falls. It’s all very serene.

I laze around my hotel room for the rest of the afternoon. The beach is just over the road. But it’s still raining. Not as heavily as before. But still not exactly beach weather.

Judges waiting for food.

In the evening is the first event. A dinner.at a rather flash steak place, Sal e Brasa. Waiters buzz around with skewers of meat. Just like you see on the TV. I get a slice or two of steak, which is dead good. What do I drink? Caipirinha, of course. I am in Brazil, after all.

I chat with Herlinda Heras and Tara Nurin, two American judges, who are sitting opposite. We marvel together at the deep-fried sushi. Which none of us has ever seen before. It’s pretty weird. What would someone Japanese think? The meat skewers, on the other hand, are amazing.

Deep-fried sushi.

I don’t really know any of the judges. This is a good chance to become acquainted. They seem like a nice bunch. It's all very jolly. The cocktails help.

I get a caipirinha made with some exotic Brazilian fruit. Whose name I can’t remember. I think it’s the weird one that grows on the trunk. Looks a bit like a grape. Never seen the fruit itself before. Just drink it in Catherina Sours.

Charles Guerrier, English, but usually based in Singapore, sits next to me. And seems equally enthusiastic about caipirinhas. I think we’ll get along well.

It’s getting on when we return to the hotel. I go straight up to my room. And have a little hotel whisky to knock me out.  Whether I need it or not.



B & C Bar e Restaurante
R. Dr. Helvécio Carneiro Ribeiro, 8
Ondina, Salvador
BA, 40117-170.



Sal e Brasa
R. Carimbamba, 917
Pituaçu, Salvador
BA, 41740-010.
https://salebrasa.com.br/

 

Disclaimer: my flights, hotels and most meals were paid for by the Brazilian International Beer Awards.