More cachaça!

We continue on to another cachaçaria, Wruck. Which is on a much more industrial scale. Though it’s still a family business. The nice young man who shows us around tells us that his father, uncle and sister all work here.

The still is much more high-tech than the one at Dupipe. I doubt very much that they built this one themselves. It’s all gleaming copper and stainless steel.

I’m a bit baffled by some of the equipment. The fermenters are easy to grasp. Not so much another bunch of other stainless-steel vessels that look a bit like a brewhouse. But not quite. I think they might be something to do with molasses.

At the back of the distillery building logs of wood are piled up. Presumably to be used to fire the impressive-looking boiler.

We try a couple of the cachaças. The older one is rich, dark and very smooth. Really rather nice. So nice, in fact, that I buy a bottle.

Just a little down the road is our next stop, Bylaardt. I’ve been here before. Though I’m happy to visit again, as the cachaças were dead good. The owner shows us around.

Just like last time, they’re fermenting. The smell smacks you in the face as soon as you enter the room. Fermentation takes about 30 hours, hitting a maximum temperature of 34º C. They’re also distilling, with the still hissing scarily. You can see the raw spirit trickling from the condenser. Like the other two distilleries we’ve been to today, it’s wood fuelled.

There are some large stainless-steel vessels out in the open. With next to them a shed housing a couple of barrel rooms. The first has relatively new barrels. The second somewhat older ones and the third three large vats of 2,500 litres.

“Do you want to sample some now?” the owner asks. Er, yes please.

He starts by pouring us an 18-year-old from a small wooden cask. It’s absolutely incredible. The long time in oak has left it with a deep amber colour and an enticing vanilla aroma. In the mouth it’s fruity and rounded, with a massive depth of flavour. It’s fantastic stuff. One of the best cachaças I’ve tried.

Once again, it’s a proper measure. We have a couple more samples, including an anburana-aged cachaça. It was on my last visit that I first encountered this incredibly spicy wood. And I’m a fan. As long as it’s used carefully. Too much and you’re fucked, flavour-wise.

There’s a selection of small casks of different shapes, up to 20 litres in size. Some are of fresh oak, some of recycled oak from larger barrels and some from fresh amburana. If only I weren’t travelling by plane, I’d be seriously tempted to buy one, as a 10-litre barrel is just 150 euros.

“Would you like any more samples?” the owner asks. Of course I fucking do. He pours me another full measure of the 18-year-old. It’s really knocking my socks off. It’s up there with a really, really good single malt.

We reluctantly leave, with me feeling a little lightheaded from the generous samples.

The countryside is just as extravagant on our return journey. A heterogenous horde of trees occupy the hillsides, popping every shade of green. And the flowers. Not just in the neat gardens of occasional houses. No, they erupt from every crack between their big brother trees. Flamboyantly refusing to be bullied.

It’s been a brilliant trip.

And it isn’t over yet. As we enter the outskirts of Blumenau, Rafael asks me if I’d like to visit a German-style beer garden called Norden for some food. Definitely, as I haven’t eaten since breakfast.

The garden is around one of the oldest houses in Blumenau. And which housed the city’s first brewery, back in the 19th century.

Walking through the house, it’s decked out in totally German style. Even the signs are all in German as well as Portuguese.

We get a Metzgerplatte to share. As the name implies, it’s several kinds of meat. Including some yummy bacon. Just what I’ve been missing. I wash it down with an IPA, while the others have Paulaner Oktoberfest.

As it’s pretty early, there aren’t that many other punters when we arrive. It starts filling up and a German band, consisting of an accordionist and a bassist, start playing typical German pub tunes.

When we leave, it’s getting on for 21:00. The Policia Militar are up to something in the car park. It’s the first time I’ve seen them do anything other than score free food in pubs.

Back in my room, I watch Match of the Day 2. And some other crap on Ziggo. I don’t stay up too late. It’s been a tiring, but wonderful, day.

It’s the mandarin liqueur that takes my hand and leads me to sleep today.



Cachaçaria Wruck
Rua: Ver.Otto Wruck, 2485
Francês, Luiz Alves
SC, 89128-000.
https://cachacawruck.com.br/


Alambique Bylaardt
Rua Prefeito Wilibaldo Van Den Bylaardt, 6349,
Braço Serafim, Luiz Alves
SC, 89128-000.
http://www.cachacasbylaardt.com.br/


Norden Bar e Restaurante
R. Xavantina, 100
Boa Vista, Blumenau
SC, 89030-002.