"Did they just say that the train was going to divide, Mike?"
"Did they? I stopped listening after the first bit."
"I'm sure they did."
Most of the families stuffing our carriage stand up immediately after the announcement. I stand up too.
What has happened to Mike's German? "Yes. Very sure."
The guard standing on the platform confirms that the train is indeed splitting. We need the back half, which forms a regional express to Bayreuth. Stopping in Trebgast.
The families all pile off with us in Trebgast.
"I hope they aren't going to our pub, Mike." We're stopping in a butchers, hotel, pub. At Mike's insistence. If it were up to him, we'd be spending the whole holiday in butchers.
Dorfschänke, Trebgast, 12:20
Five minutes later and we're sitting outside Dorfschänke. The shades are treeing, the sings are birding, the shine is sunny. And I've a beer in frontt of me. Yippee! Soon I'll have a Schweinebraten, too.
Here's my beer:
The sun's gone in. My day is now perfect. Perhaps a light drizzle mike might it surpass even perfection.
"Meaty goodness." Mike likes his lunch.
Inside it's mobbed with locals. Yet the staff keep checking if we need anything else. Like beer. I always need more beer. "How about some more beer, Mike?"
Metzgerei Friderich, Trebgast, 14:30
We've just walked up the hill to the church. "There's always a pub within 100 metres of a catholic church." I'd assured Mike. I still hold to that theory. Unfortunately, this church turned out to be protestant. I protestant, baroque church in Bavaria. Who would have expected that? At least we had an uphill walk. And I spotted a Brauerei Haberstumpf van. This one:
We're in the beer garden at Metzgerei Friedrich. The families have thankfully buggered off and it's practically deserted. very pleasant. We're drinking Haberstumpf Helles.
"The thought of having dinner at a butcher's - that's too much for me."
"Guess we'll be having our tea here, then, Mike."
Life is Helles. But sometimes my mood turns black. Schwarzbier time.
Mönchshof Schwarzbier - blackly full of just good enoughness.
Four doppelte Obstler later and Mike's crazy plan to walk to the next village to catch a bus tomorrow isn't pissing me off quite as much. Not at all, really. And I've pulled. The 2-year old in the high chair on the next table and me have struck up a rapport. Pulling funny faces gets you a long way with pre-schoolers. If only older women were so easy to charm.
The bells are chiming, just as my charming stalls. Time to pay.
Tel: 09227 373
Gasthof / Metzgerei Friedrich
Kulmbacher Straße 2
Tel: 09227 / 9 41 50
Fax: 09227 / 94 15 50
Of Blutwurst and Brewmaster - My Generations I wrote over two years ago of the 1944 beer tasting at the Waldorf-Astoria of the Wine and Food Society of New York. In fact, I recreated t...
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