Wednesday, 7 August 2019

Let's Brew Wednesday - 1944 Drybrough 60/-

By 1944, Drybrough 60/- had just about finished transforming itself into the modern version of the style.

Its gravity had fallen by 6 points, or around 17%. Which is slightly greater than the average reduction in gravity for all beer brewed in the UK between 1939 and 1944, which was 15%.  A crappy degree of attenuation left this version at just 2.5% ABV. No wonder they drank a lot of whisky in Scotland.

The biggest change in the grist since the outbreak of war is the replacement of some of the base malt by flaked barley. A change which wasn’t voluntary, but dictated by the government. Other than that, it remains as idiosyncratic as error, including both enzymic malt and diastatic malt syrup. Plus a tiny amount of chocolate malt, presumably to get the desired colour. Though the quantity is so small I can’t see that it makes much difference.

Speaking of colour, doubtless this beer was coloured up to a variety of shades at racking time. That’s the whacky way Scottish breweries operated. Some versions would have looked more like Dark Mild than the Pale Ales they really were.

The sugars in the original were 2 cwt Fison, 2 cwt Avona and 2 cwt Martineau. For which I’ve substituted No. 2 invert sugar.

The hopping rate was pretty low and the hops were all pretty old, coming from the 1942 harvest. All English, is all I know about them. The age and small quantity of the hops results in a beer with very low bitterness.


1944 Drybrough 60/-
pale malt 5.50 lb 74.83%
enzymic malt 0.25 lb 3.40%
chocolate malt 0.03 lb 0.41%
flaked barley 1.00 lb 13.61%
malt extract 0.07 lb 0.95%
No. 2 invert sugar 0.50 lb 6.80%
Fuggles 135 mins 0.50 oz
Fuggles 90 mins 0.25 oz
Goldings 30 mins 0.25 oz
Goldings dry hops 0.25 oz
OG 1032
FG 1012.5
ABV 2.58
Apparent attenuation 60.94%
IBU 15
SRM 6
Mash at 152º F
Sparge at 165º F
Boil time 135 minutes
pitching temp 60º F
Yeast WLP028 Edinburgh Ale

Tuesday, 6 August 2019

Scottish Brown Ales 1947 - 1958

Just as down south in Sassenachland, Brown Ale was extremely popular in Scotland after WW I. Though the beers sold under that name don’t appear to have been exactly the same.

With a couple of exceptions, mostly in the Northeast, English Brown Ales were watery after WW II. While before the war they’d been about average gravity (low 1040’s), they were at the bottom end after it. Which meant an OG 0f 1027-1032º and ABV as low as 2.5%.

Some of the examples in the table clearly fall into that category. Though there are also ones in the mid-1040’s or even 1050’s. Much stronger than most English Brown Ales of the period.

The weaker versions I’m sure are the brewery’s lowest-strength Pale Ale caramelled up. The ones in the 1040’s, same thing, just with Export. Not sure about those over 1050º.

Down in London, Brown Ales were far weaker on average. In the late 1940’s, most hovered either side of 1030º.


Scottish Brown Ales 1947 - 1958
Year Brewer Beer OG FG ABV App. Atten-uation colour
1947 Steel Coulson Brown Ale 1028.5 1005 3.05 82.46%
1949 McEwan Nut Brown Ale 1029.5 1006 3.05 79.66%
1949 Murray Brown Ale 1037.8 1010 3.60 73.54% 115
1949 Wm. Younger Brown Ale 1033.6 1011.2 2.90 66.67% 115
1949 Wm. Younger Brown Ale 1033 1014 2.45 57.58%
1950 Calder Nut Brown Ale 1034.3 1011.4 2.96 66.76% 70
1950 Murray Brown Ale 1057.1 1013.4 5.69 76.53% 83
1950 Wm. Younger Brown Ale 1032.6 1011.4 2.74 65.03% 180
1953 Steel Coulson Brown Ale B. 60/- 1030
1954 Wm. Younger Double Century Ale 1056.6 1023.3 4.29 58.83% 80
1956 Aitchison Gold Seal Brown Ale 1041.6 1013.9 3.58 66.59% 50
1956 Wm. Younger "Wee Willie" Brown Ale 1033.5 1009.6 3.10 71.34% 70
1956 Wm. Younger Edinburgh Brown Ale 1046.8 1013.2 4.36 71.79% 75
1957 Ushers Brown Export Ale 1044.4 1017.3 3.50 61.04% 130
1957 Wm. Younger Edinburgh Brown Ale 1046.6 1013.1 4.34 71.89% 55
1958 Bernard Double Brown Ale (D.B. Ale) 1043 1013 3.89 69.77%
1958 Blair Brown Ale 1034.1 1011.7 2.80 65.69% 125
Sources:
Whitbread Gravity book held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document number LMA/4453/D/02/002.
Thomas Usher Gravity Book document TU/6/11 held at the Scottish Brewing Archive.
T & J Bernard's brewing records held at the Scottish Brewing Archive
document from the Steel Coulson archive held at the Scottish Brewing Archives



This is yet another excerpt from my Scottish book, Scotland! vol. 2




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Monday, 5 August 2019

Whitbread IPA 1914 - 1921

The effect of the war on Whitbread’s IPA was to transform it into a low-gravity beer. It started the war a couple of gravity points below average OG, but finished around 10 points below.

IPA’s gravity didn’t bounce back the way that Whitbread’s PA’s did. In June 1918, there was little between the two beers, PA was 1035.1º and IPA just a couple of points lower at 1033º.  But while PA jumped back to 1048.2º in 1912, an increase of 13 gravity points, IPA only increased by two.

Though IPA remained significantly more heavily hopped than PA. Something that might please style Nazis.

Whitbread IPA had a very simple recipe. And one that changed very little during the war.

The only really significant change was a drop in the sugar percentage in 1917 and 1918. After which it rose back to its old level. The recipe in March 1919 was identical to the one in 1914. Even though the beer itself was far weaker. Whitbread clearly thought the old recipe was a winner.

Whitbread IPA 1914 - 1921
Date Year OG FG ABV App. Atten-uation lbs hops/ qtr hops lb/brl
5th Jun 1914 1049.3 1013.0 4.80 73.63% 11.96 2.53
6th Oct 1914 1049.9 1015.0 4.61 69.92% 10.97 2.39
31st Jan 1916 1047.1 1015.0 4.25 68.15% 10.94 2.26
3rd Jul 1917 1047.1 1012.0 4.64 74.52% 11.90 2.46
10th Oct 1917 1047.4 1012.0 4.68 74.67% 11.87 2.49
16th Oct 1917 1038.8 1007.0 4.20 81.95% 11.41 1.91
17th Oct 1917 1040.9 1008.0 4.35 80.43% 10.61 1.81
11th Jun 1918 1033.0 1008.0 3.30 75.73% 11.68 1.69
30th Oct 1918 1032.4 1005.0 3.63 84.57% 11.97 1.70
19th Mar 1919 1032.4 1007.0 3.36 78.40% 11.85 1.67
11th Nov 1919 1036.0 1009.0 3.57 74.97% 12.95 1.98
5th Mar 1920 1034.0 1007.0 3.58 79.44% 12.99 1.90
8th Mar 1921 1035.5 1007.0 3.76 80.26% 12.94 1.81
21st Jan 1921 1034.2 1006.0 3.73 82.46% 12.88 1.80
Sources:
Whitbread brewing records held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document numbers LMA/4453/D/01/079, LMA/4453/D/01/081, LMA/4453/D/01/082, LMA/4453/D/01/083, LMA/4453/D/01/084, LMA/4453/D/01/085 and LMA/4453/D/01/086.


Whitbread IPA grists 1914 - 1921
Date Year OG pale malt PA malt no. 1 sugar
5th Jun 1914 1049.3 22.0% 58.5% 19.5%
6th Oct 1914 1049.9 22.0% 58.5% 19.5%
31st Jan 1916 1047.1 23.3% 56.0% 20.7%
3rd Jul 1917 1047.1 22.8% 60.9% 16.2%
10th Oct 1917 1047.4 22.8% 60.9% 16.2%
16th Oct 1917 1038.8 22.7% 68.2% 9.1%
17th Oct 1917 1040.9 26.2% 64.5% 9.3%
11th Jun 1918 1033.0 29.2% 64.3% 6.5%
30th Oct 1918 1032.4 21.3% 59.7% 19.0%
19th Mar 1919 1032.4 22.0% 58.5% 19.5%
11th Nov 1919 1036.0 52.3% 31.1% 16.6%
5th Mar 1920 1034.0 23.5% 64.2% 12.2%
8th Mar 1921 1035.5 35.9% 51.4% 12.7%
21st Jan 1921 1034.2 34.7% 52.1% 13.1%
Sources:
Whitbread brewing records held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document numbers LMA/4453/D/01/079, LMA/4453/D/01/081, LMA/4453/D/01/082, LMA/4453/D/01/083, LMA/4453/D/01/084, LMA/4453/D/01/085 and LMA/4453/D/01/086.



A look at the hops used in brewing Whitbread IPA gives a fascinating insight to what was happening with the hop industry during the war.


Until 1919, Whitbread only used Kent hops in their IPA. Even more specific than that, they only used East Kent hops. Which means Goldings or something similar. Though they are becoming increasingly old. For example, the 1916 crop only turns up in the records about a year after harvest.

Whitbread IPA hops 1914 - 1921
Date Year OG hops
5th Jun 1914 1049.3 EK (1912 CS, 1913)
6th Oct 1914 1049.9 EK (1912 CS, 1913 CS, 1913)
31st Jan 1916 1047.1 EK (1914 CS, 1914)
3rd Jul 1917 1047.1 EK (1914 CS, 1914)
10th Oct 1917 1047.4 EK (1915 CS, 1916)
16th Oct 1917 1038.8 EK (1915 CS, 1916)
17th Oct 1917 1040.9 EK (1915 CS, 1916)
11th Jun 1918 1033.0 EK (1915 CS, 1916 CS)
30th Oct 1918 1032.4 EK (1916 CS)
19th Mar 1919 1032.4 EK (1917), EK (1917 CS)
11th Nov 1919 1036.0 EK (1918), MK (1918), Oregon (1917)
5th Mar 1920 1034.0 EK (1918 CS), MK (1918), MK (1919), Pacific (1917)
8th Mar 1921 1035.5 EK (1919), MK (1919), Oregon (1917), Bohemian (1919)
21st Jan 1921 1034.2 EK (1919), MK (1918, 1919), Oregon (1917), Bohemian (1919)
Sources:
Whitbread brewing records held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document numbers LMA/4453/D/01/079, LMA/4453/D/01/081, LMA/4453/D/01/082, LMA/4453/D/01/083, LMA/4453/D/01/084, LMA/4453/D/01/085 and LMA/4453/D/01/086.

Using older hops was nothing new. But usually a Pale Ale would always contain some hops of the most recent season. That wasn’t the case during WW I.

After the end of hostilities, several foreign hops appear. Pacific and Oregon from the US and Bohemians, from what had been enemy territory. Given the minimal amounts of hops imported in into the UK in 1917 and 1919, the US from the 1917 crop must have been imported later.



This an excerpt from my book on brewing in WW I, Armistice!


Alexei the left.

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Sunday, 4 August 2019

UK beer production and average OG 1912 - 1922

UK brewing entered WW I in a troubled state. The decade before 1914 had been a difficult one for the industry.

Increased licence duties for breweries and pubs had seriously disrupted the industry. Specifically through a fall in the price of public houses, which left many breweries with nominal share values far in excess of their real assets. Many breweries were forced to reduce their share values. Others went into liquidation, including big names like Allsopp.

Brewers must have been anxious about what the war would mean for them. Most would have expected one thing: an increase in tax. Successive UK governments had used beer as a source of extra revenue.

Here’s what happened with beer output and strength across the war years:


UK beer production and average OG 1912 - 1922
England Scotland Ireland United Kingdom
Year bulk barrels average OG bulk barrels average OG bulk barrels average OG bulk barrels average OG
1912 30,991,776 1051.76 2,153,569 1048.11 3,330,174 1065.43 36,475,519 1052.72
1913 30,758,800 1051.52 2,119,666 1047.85 3,417,851 1065.73 36,296,317 1052.64
1914 31,737,384 1051.69 2,288,481 1047.67 3,532,902 1065.93 37,558,767 1052.80
1915 29,310,783 1051.16 2,042,477 1046.85 3,412,520 1065.93 34,765,780 1052.35
1916 26,914,428 1050.49 1,917,148 1046.45 3,279,032 1066.43 32,110,608 1051.88
1917 25,497,825 1047.01 1,816,003 1043.16 2,850,170 1065.69 30,163,998 1048.54
1918 16,340,250 1038.25 1,141,114 1036.74 1,603,679 1057.89 19,085,043 1039.81
1919 20,133,048 1029.35 1,325,439 1029.77 1,806,046 1044.43 23,264,533 1030.55
1920 29,891,845 1038.57 2,186,604 1038.83 2,969,498 1043.35 35,047,947 1039.41
1921 28,927,178 1041.72 2,096,080 1042.31 3,481,312 1050.18 34,504,570 1042.61
1922 25,468,663 1042.21 1,770,175 1041.68 2,939,893 1049.44 30,178,731 1042.88
Sources:
Brewers' Journal 1921, page 246.
Brewers' Almanack 1928, page 110.



The above is another excerpt from my book on WW I, Armistice!

 Buy this wonderful book.





Saturday, 3 August 2019

Let's Brew - 1944 Barclay Perkins X

Since 1930, Barclay’s X had fallen considerably in gravity. Back then it had an OG of 1042º, but events had conspired against it.

First came the disastrous Snowden emergency budget in September 1931. It prompted most breweries to cut the gravities of their beers so that could still be sold at the pre-budget price. Barclay Perkins dropped the OG of X to 1037º, but at the same time introduced XX at the old X gravity. WW II then forced the strength of X down further.

As a result of the gravity cuts, X looks very much like a typical post-war Mild at 3% ABV.

Other than the adjuncts employed, the grist isn’t much different from in previous years. The backbone remains: base malt, amber malt and crystal malt. Though the base malts did consist of various combinations of pale, mild and SA malt.

The colour mostly came from No. 3 invert and caramel. Which is pretty typical for Mild Ales.

The hops were Kent Fuggles from the 1941 and 1943 harvests, plus Mid-Kent Fuggles from 1943.


1944 Barclay Perkins X
mild malt 5.00 lb 70.03%
crystal malt 60 L 0.33 lb 4.62%
amber malt 0.50 lb 7.00%
flaked barley 0.50 lb 7.00%
No. 3 invert sugar 0.75 lb 10.50%
caramel 1000 SRM 0.06 lb 0.84%
Fuggles 90 mins 0.25 oz
Fuggles 60 mins 0.25 oz
Fuggles 30 mins 0.25 oz
OG 1032
FG 1009
ABV 3.04
Apparent attenuation 71.88%
IBU 20
SRM 13
Mash at 144º F
After underlet 150º F
Sparge at 165º F
Boil time 90 minutes
pitching temp 61º F
Yeast Wyeast 1099 Whitbread ale

Friday, 2 August 2019

Scottish beer exports 1916 - 1939

More Scottish shit for you today. You lucky devils.

Scottish brewers were responsible for around 15% of UK beer exports in the late 19th century, despite Scotland having only about 10% of the population of England. After WW I that rose to over 50% of exports.

The simple truth is that without exports to both England and abroad the Scottish brewing industry would never have been nearly so large. The local market just wasn’t big enough.

Before WW I their export markets had mostly been parts of the British Empire. Large quantities of beer were shipped both to the West indies and to Australia. But the latter market mostly disappeared when the new nation of Australia introduced import tariffs to encourage local industry. Instead the Scots turned attention to a rather closer market: Belgium.

What they shipped to Belgium was pretty much their West Indies favourite: strong, dark Scotch Ales. Sometimes similar to a Strong Ale sold in Scotland, others a beer specially brewed.


Beer Exported on Drawback and Free of Duty
England and Wales Scotland Ireland United Kingdom UK exports
1916 581,947 174,595 46,371 802,913
1917 314,333 73,896 30,095 418,324
1918 174,408 30,379 16,185 220,972
1919 470,794 195,995 33,821 700,610
1920 312,868 146,726 16,698 485,292 390,248
1921 215,719 92,193 12,648 320,560
1922 207,882 117,978 10,239 336,099 260,914
1923 176,913 108,544 2,270 287,727 257,454
1924 158,373 132,889 753 292,015 264,003
1925 180,731 145,603 415 326,749 290,824
1926 178,155 168,609 305 347,069 283,033
1927 156,258 179,242 232 338,732 287,445
1928 170,728 193,255 363,983 328,029ww
1929 176,381 223,638 400,019 352,942
1930 173,988 204,345 378,333 328,524
1931 159,278 147,527 306,805 289,516
1932 136,231 133,240 269,471 244,525
1933 117,363 126,254 243,617 217,981
Sources:
Brewers' Journal 1919, page 65.
Brewers' Journal 1922, page 71.
Brewers' Journal 1925, page 83.
Brewers' Journal 1928, page 87.
Brewers' Journal 1934, page 162.
Brewers' Almanack 1928, p. 115
Brewers' Almanack 1955, p. 57



The above is an extract from the best book ever written on Scottish brewing, my Scotland! vol. 2:





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Thursday, 1 August 2019

Off to Newark


We’re planning our trip to Newark in a few days.

Lexie has just one concern: “Will we be in Balderton in time for the chip shop?”

“Of course, Lexie. And if we look like being late, we can phone Uncle David and ask him to get us those piey and chippy thins.”

“I’m not a toddler, Dad. Talk properly.”

“Fuck off, Lexie.”

“That’s not any better.”

Twisting the kids' arms, the 10:46 train to Sheffield is on.

"What will we do there?" Alexei asked me.

"There are pork pies, scratchings and all the beer you can drink."

"But what can I do there?"

I despair.

Andrew is sold, though. Especially the all the beer you can drink bit.

“It doesn’t look that industrial and depressing.”  Lexie says, talking of Sheffield after looking on Google maps. He sounds disappointed.

“Go into 3 D maybe it looks more miserable then.” I suggest.



Airport
“We’re leaving from pier D. Do you know what that means?”

“Yes Dad. I worked here, remember.”

“I know, Andrew, but I like to keep things ‘spannend’ as you say in Dutch.”

“Just speak English, Dad. It sounds weird when you talk Dutch.”

“Is that weird in a good way or a bad way?”

“A really bad way. Just stop.”

“Guess what we can do at pier D?”

“Go to the Irish pub. That’s what we always do.”

“You don’t want a beer before getting on the plane, then, Lexie?”

“A pint of cider, Dad. As usual. You can’t remember shit, can you?”

I can. I had one just this morning. Thankfully, in the toilet and not in my undertrolleys. But I remain silent. The cheek of kids nowadays. I feel like a bit of fist-shaking at the general state of the world and the specific state of my kids. I had to endure the three-day week for you bastards.

On the way to the pub, I drag the kids into the duty free. I’ve a 25 euro voucher that Dolores printed out. Not going to waste that. As the malt whisky is all stupid prices, I get a litre of Jim Beam.

“Then you can share it with me, kids.”

“Yes, Dad. As if we’ll get anywhere near it before you’ve gulped it all down.”


“What do you want to drink, lads?”

“I’ve already told you, Dad. A pint of cider.”

“And you Andrew?”

“The same, Dad.”

“A half Stout and a double whiskey for me. Are you getting them in, Andrew.”

“Fuck off, Dad.”

“I’ll take that as a no.”

Weird. I don’t recognise any of the bar staff. I’m through here so often, I usually know at least a couple.

The whiskey is full of whiskeyey goodness.

“Stop talking crap, Dad.”

Did I say that out loud?

“Yes, Dad. Stop talking crap.”

Lexie is wonderfully to the point.

“Daad, don’t say out loud everything that’s in your head.”

“Was I speaking again?”

“Yes, Dad, it’s really annoying. Just shut the fuck up. And I’ll have another cider.”

He got though that one quickly. I’ve hardly touched my half of Stout. Though the double whiskey is long gone. Odd, that.

“What about you, Andrew?”

“A pint of Stout this time.”

“What do you think I’ll be getting?”

“More whiskey, Dad. It’s always the same.”

He’s totally wrong. (Not.)

We’re in lots of time for our flight. But Alexei says: “Hurry up, Dad. We don’t want to miss our flight.”

“They haven’t even called our names yet.”

“Daad.”

The impatient bastards. We troll over to our gate. Just as well I invested in those three miniatures of Famous Grouse.

“Dad, can’t you wait?”

“I’m not supposed to take them on the plane. I have to drink them now.”

“You could just put them in your bag. They wouldn’t notice.”

“Stop being so fucking logical, Andrew. It’s really annoying.”

“You’d know all about being annoying, Dad. Can you stop with the drinking for a minute?”

“Fuck off, Lexie.”

We understand each other so well, me and the kids. I think it comes from me looking after them so much when they were small. It did mostly consist of me taking them down a pub. No surprise, then, that they feel at home in boozers.

The flight is like all flights are: dull and cramped. But at least it’s short. And on time. That’s about all you can hope for.


The great thing about Robin Hood airport is that it’s tiny. At least the terminal is. The runway is one of the longest in the country, having been intended for nuclear bombers.

We emerge from the terminal and soon see someone waving his arms at us. It’s our taxi driver. That’s how small this airport is: it’s easy to meet someone with even the vaguest of arrangements.

There’s a cask waiting for us at my brother’s. Just a pin this time. But it is EAP, the beer to commemorate my late brother.


The chippie is still open. We trail over there. And get three pies, one large chips and 3 portions of mushy peas. Between the three of us we just about get through the chips. But it is a struggle.


The EAP is drinking nicely.

We end the evening by introducing Dave to Trailer Park Boys.



A 1 Fish Bar
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Balderton,
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