Number of breweries in the UK 1838 - 2017

Lots of numbers this time. You may be able to tell that I've been doing some more extracting from BBPA Statistical Handbook 2018.

The trend for the last couple of decades are the exact opposite of those for pubs. That is, the nunmbers have been constantly rising.  Though a quick glance at the table will tell you that the current number of breweries is way off the record. It's only just about got back to the level of the early 1920s. Go back into the 19th century and its's way short.

Though it should be borne in mind that the vast majority of breweries in the 19th century were tiny, producing fewer than 1,000 barrels per year. In 1881, for example, around 75% of brewers were homebrew pubs.

One thing to bear in mind: these numbers are for brewing licences issued. The number of breweries thnat were actively brewing was lower.

I'm going to out on a limb here: I don't think we'll ever see the UK manage 1 brewery per 544 inhabitants again.

Number of breweries in the UK 1838 - 2017
Year	Breweries	population	pop. per brewery
1838	49,200	26,751,199	544
1870	32,287	31,555,694	977
1880	21,131	34,934,476	1,653
1890	11,364	37,802,381	3,327
1895	9,050	39,220,114	4,334
1900	6,447	41,154,646	6,384
1910	4,512	44,911,346	9,954
1914	3,647	46,089,249	12,638
1920	2,914	46,873,396	16,086
1930	1,418	46,074,000	32,492
1935	1,144
1940	840	48,216,000	57,400
1945	708
1950	567	50,290,000	88,695
1955	460
1960	358	52,807,000	147,506
1965	274
1970	177	55,928,000	315,977
1980	191	56,352,000	295,037
1990	279	57,808,000	207,197
2000	500	59,009,000	118,018
2001	448
2002	403
2003	493
2004	504
2005	570
2006	642
2007	667
2008	725
2009	745
2010	828
2011	948
2012	1,300
2013	1,490
2014	1,700
2015	1,880
2016	2,250
2017	2,430	66,020,000	27,169
Sources:
Journal of the Institute of Brewing, vol 7, 1901, page 64
BBPA Statistical Handbook 2003, p. 92
Brewers' Almanack 1955 p.68

Ireland becomes a beer exporter

In the 18th century the beer trade between Britian and Ireland was mostly one way: towards Irealand. Much of it in the form of Porter, the hip new beer style of the day.

Irish beer production increased towards the end of the 18th century,  but was still quite modest compared to that of England. In 1795, for example, 683,818 barrels were brewed in Ireland compared to 7,067,305 barrels in England and Wales.*

As the 19th century dawned, only minimal quantities of beer were being exported from Ireland: fewer than 1,000 barrels a year, and sometimes not even 100 barrels. All that changed around the middle of the century, when exports started to be measured in the hundreds of thousand barrels. What happened? British drinkers discovered the delights of Irish Porter and demand surged.

Unfortunately, I don't have a full set of figures. And the ones that are missing cover the importants years of when Irish beers exports really kicked off, sometime between 1830 and 1861. Which weren't exactly the happiest years for Ireland.

It would be ewasy to assume that the overwhelming majority of the exports were in the form of Guinness, but, as we'll see next time, that wasn't the case.

Irish beer exports to Britain 1814 - 1901
Year	England	Scotland	Total Britain	elsewhere	total exports
1814	424	46	470
1818	61		61
1819	196		196
1820	205	6	211
1821	591	1	592
1822	1,714	1	1,715
1823	2,482		2,482
1824	4,843		4,843
1825	6,252		6,252
1826	7,141	19	7,160		9,855
1827	8,033	48	8,081		10,800
1828	11,100	220	11,320		11,261
1828	8,035	48	8,083	3,180	11,263
1829	11,754	118			14,499
1830					15,207
1861			255,576
1871			421,952
1881			508,035
1891			691,478
1898			552,942
1901			689,796
Sources:
"Ireland Industrial and Agricultural", 1902, page 457
"Accounts and Papers; relating to Customs, Excise and Taxes; Stamp Duties; Pamphlets and Newspapers; Insurances; Pawnbrokers, vol. XXV, session 5 Feb 23 July 1830", 1830, pages iv - v
"Accounts and Papers; relating to Customs, Excise and Taxes; Stamp Duties; Pamphlets and Newspapers; Insurances; Pawnbrokers, vol. XXV, session 5 Feb 23 July 1830", 1830, pages xii - xiii
"A philosophical and statistical history of the inventions and customs of Ancient and Modern Nations in the Manufacture and Use of Intoxicating Liquors" by Samuel Morewood, 1838, page 624.

* Papers: Miscellaneous, session 23 January to 11 July 1821", 1821, page 269.
Accounts and Papers: relating to Assessed Taxes; Stamps: Rates of Duties; Customs and Excise; Beer, Hops, and Malt; Spirits; the Distilleries, session 21 November 1826 - 2 July 1827., 1827. pages 130 - 131

Birthday recipe

My amazing offer still stands. For a mere 25 euros, you can have a bespoke homebrew recipe for a beer originally brewed on your birthday. Or any other date that might be significant to you.

Just click the new button on the left with the label "Birthday recipe".

I'll supply you not only with a unique, bespoke recipe, but also a few hundred words of text describing the beer and an image of the original brewing record. All for just 25 euros.

Let me know any style or era preferences you have, as I've a wide range of options for any date. Though if you were born in January, July or October, you'll have a wider choice, as I've photographed more records for those months. Don't ask me why.

It'll make the perfect birthday or Christmas present for the brewer you love. And for just 25 euros. Bargain.

Let's Brew - 1936 Barclay Perkins RNS

Between the wars Barclay Perkins brewed a baffling array of Stouts: BBS Export, IBS, RNS, OMS, BS and LS. Plus, of course, their Porter TT. That’s an awful lot of Stouts. RNS was one of the stronger examples.

Most were only brewed on their small kit in fairly modest quantities. This particular batch, for example, was just 50 barrels. The fact that they had a small batch plant probably explains the survival of so many different Stouts. Their more popular beers were brewed in batches of 500 barrels and more.

What does RNS mean? I’m not sure, but RN usually stands for one thing in the UK: Royal Navy. My guess is that it’s a beer that was brewed especially for the navy. Probably for consumption on land, as sailors still received a rum ration when at sea back then.

I often bang on about how historic recipes are mostly pretty simple. Well, Barclay’s Stouts are an exception. They have very complex recipes, with multiple malts, adjuncts and sugars.

The grist is even more complex than it appears in the recipe. As there was also some SA malt included, for which I’ve substituted more mild malt. Using mild malt as the base for Stouts was reasonably common. It would have been a waste of a top-class pale malt to use it in a beer with lots of roasted grain.

In some ways the grist looks very old-fashioned. In the 19th century it was reasonably common for posher Stouts also to contain, in addition to the classic pale, brown black combination, amber malt. Though in this case roast barley takes the place of black malt. Barclay Perkins tended to flip back and forth between the two fairly randomly.

Once again, No. 4 invert is my substitution for something called Martineau BS. RNS was very heavily primed. Before the additions of primings the OG was 1053.8. To account for the primings, I’ve added an extra half pound of No. 3 invert sugar.

The hops were Kent Fuggles and MK Goldings, both from the 1935 harvest and kept in a cold store.

1936 Barclay Perkins RNS
mild malt	6.75 lb	52.78%
brown malt	0.75 lb	5.86%
amber malt	1.50 lb	11.73%
roast barley	1.50 lb	11.73%
flaked maize	0.50 lb	3.91%
malted oats	0.04 lb	0.31%
No. 2 invert sugar	0.125 lb	0.98%
No. 3 invert sugar	0.75 lb	5.86%
No. 4 invert sugar	0.75 lb	5.86%
caramel 1000 SRM	0.125 lb	0.98%
Fuggles 150 mins	1.25 oz
Fuggles 60 mins	1.25 oz
Goldings 30 mins	1.00 oz
OG	1059
FG	1016.5
ABV	5.62
Apparent attenuation	72.03%
IBU	43
SRM	44
Mash at	143º F
After underlet	153º F
Sparge at	162º F
Boil time	150 minutes
pitching temp	60.5º F
Yeast	Wyeast 1099 Whitbread ale

After hours drinking

It's slightly bizarre to realise that, at a time when there was regular bombing, that the authorities were as keen as ever on enforcing closing time. Usually prosecution was followed by a heavy fine. You might have thought that the police had rather more serious matters to worry about than serving the odd pint after hours.

One of the weirdest aspects of the law at that time was that it wasn't just the licensee who was breaking the law by serving drinks, but also the customers that consumed them.Though that's not strictly speaking true. Only selling drinks was againts the the law. It was perfectly legal for a landlord to give away drinks to guests.

That was, the usual excuse when caught serving after hours: that the drinks had been supplied free of charge and that the customers were actually guests. It wasn't usually very successful. Though in this case it was.

"DRINKS WERE FOR FRIENDS — Licensee
"There is abundant evidence that these two people were not mere customers but close friends of the licensee." declared the magistrate, Sir Gervais Rentoul, at West London Police Court on Thursday, in dismissing summonses against the licensee of the "Star" public-house, alleging the sale and supply of intoxicating liquor after closing time.

The licensee Henry Samuel Perkins, had also been summoned for shading and abetting Patrick Crean and Mrs. Jessie Metcalfe in consuming liquor after permitted hours and they in turn were summoned for so doing.

Inspector Franklin had described at the previous hearing how he stood outside this public-house after closing time and heard the sound of voices and the till being operated. The house closed at 10 p.m. but at 11.10 p.m. the wife of the licenses let some persons out by the side doer. When the police entered there were people in the bars and the inspector found Crean standing holding a pint glass containing beer in his hand. Mrs. Metcalfe had a glass of light ale, while there were three other glasses containing beer on the counter. All the drinks appeared to have been recently served as they all had froth on top of them.

The licensee declared that no drinks were served to customers after ten o'clock. Crean end Mrs. Metcalfe were not only customers but close friends. Mrs. Metcalfe assisted in the bar during week-ends and on this night she had helped in sweeping up the bars. She had attended his daughter's wedding and was in fact a very great friend of his wife. Mr. Perkins added that he often went to football matches with Crean, who was the captain of the "Star" darts team. The drinks on the counter were supplied by the licensee for his two guests, his wife and self.

Dismissing all summonses. Sir Gervais expressed the opinion that the case was rather different from others he had had before him and that the licensee had satisfied him that these people were his guests."
West London Observer - Friday 18 April 1941, page 3.

I'm not sure why the landlord was believed in this case. Perhaps because there were obvious ties of friendship between hin and Mr. Crean and Mrs. Metcalfe.

One beery point. Though not many beers were called Light Ale by brewers, it did seem to be an accepted term for a type of light, bottled Pale Ale. Brewers and labels only really caught up with this convention after WW II.

This is one of the reasons it's hard to pin down much hard information on Light Ale from brewing records: there's almost never a beer called that. Though it's probably fair to say that any bottle Pale Ale with an OG under 1040º was probably sold as Light Ale in pubs.

There's a similar, but slightly different problem with Brown Ale. That was usually what it said on the bottle, so identifying what was a Brown Ale is less tricky. But again there's rarely a beer in the brewing reords called that. The reason being that many brewers' Brown Ale was simply a tweaked, bottled version of their draught Mild.

Lees grists in 1946

The war hadn’t caused any radical rewriting of Lees recipes. Other than the addition of flaked barley. Something over which the brewery had no say.

Substituting flaked barley for some of the base malt is the only significant change to the recipes. Interestingly, Lees dropped flaked barley from their Bitter recipe as soon as the war ended. But retained it for all their other beers.

The proportion of glucose and invert sugar was a little lower in 1946 than in 1939, but not massively so. The war had no impact on the types of sugar Lees used.

There was no real variation between the hops used in the different beers. All were English grown in either the 1944 and 1945 season. Hop imports came to virtually a complete halt during the war. Though this made little difference to Lees as before the war they had used exclusively English hops.

The hops were split approximately two-thirds 1944 harvest to one-third 1945. Though the two most expensive beers, Bitter and “C” Ale, did receive slightly more of the fresher hops.

Lees grists in 1946
Date	Beer	OG	pale malt	black malt	flaked barley	glucose	invert sugar	CWA primings
1st Apr	BM	1033	72.00%	1.33%	16.00%	5.33%	5.33%
6th Mar	Bot. B	1030	72.61%	1.91%	15.29%	5.10%	5.10%
17th May	K	1028	67.46%	1.78%	14.20%	4.73%	4.73%	7.10%
26th Mar	B	1038	86.26%	0.09%		5.85%	7.80%
25th Mar	“C” Ale	1052	69.96%	1.35%	10.76%	3.59%	14.35%
Source:
Lees brewing records held at the brewery

Lees hops in 1946
Date	Beer	OG	English 1944 (lbs)	English 1944	English 1945 (lbs)	English 1945	total
1st Apr	BM	1033	70	70.00%	30	30.00%	100
6th Mar	Bot. B	1030	50	71.43%	20	28.57%	70
17th May	K	1028	50	71.43%	20	28.57%	70
26th Mar	B	1038	70	66.67%	35	33.33%	105
25th Mar	“C” Ale	1052	36	66.67%	18	33.33%	54
Source:
Lees brewing records held at the brewery

Let's Brew Wednesday - 1939 Truman R4

Some of Truman’s Burton-brewed beers are a bit of a quandary. What the hell were they? Where were they Sold? And it what format? All very reasonable questions, to which I have no answer at all.

Looking at the OG, I’d have guessed that this was Truman’s draught Burton Ale for their London trade. Except all the analyses I have of Truman Burton are around 1048º. And R4 turns up far too seldom in the brewing logs to be as popular a beer as Burton Ale. It’s all rather a mystery.

As is where exactly many of Truman’s Burton beers were sold. The Pale Ales, obviously, were sold in their London estate. But what about all the Milds? I doubt they were served in the capital. Most likely they were consumed in the tied houses Truman ran in the Midlands. But R4 – what was its target market?

Sadly, the Whitbread Gravity Book isn’t much help. It almost exclusively concentrates on the beers Truman sold in London. Very frustrating.

The recipe of R4 is closer to the Pale Ales than the Milds, lacking crystal malt and having  lower percentage of high-dried malt. The hops were all English, from the 1937 and 1938 harvests. No. 3 invert is my guess. The log only specifies invert, not the exact type.

1939 Truman R4
pale malt	8.00 lb	70.05%
high dried malt	1.75 lb	15.32%
flaked maize	1.00 lb	8.76%
No. 3 invert sugar	0.67 lb	5.87%
Fuggles 90 mins	0.75 oz
Fuggles 60 mins	0.75 oz
Goldings 30 mins	0.75 oz
OG	1053
FG	1014
ABV	5.16
Apparent attenuation	73.58%
IBU	26
SRM	11
Mash at	152.5º F
Sparge at	160º F
Boil time	90 minutes
pitching temp	59.5º F
Yeast	Wyeast 1028 London Ale (Worthington White Shield)

Lees beers in 1946

Let’s be perfectly honest, Lees had a deathly dull range of beers going into WW II. Range is being generous, as it consisted of just two beers, a Mild and a Bitter.

In wartime, most breweries trim their range, ditching less popular or very strong beers. The opposite was the case at Lees. The year following the war’s end their portfolio was up from two to five beers. Though two of those, Best Mild and “C” Ale, were only introduced after the end of hostilities.

Three of the beers are variations on a Mild theme. Bot B., for example, was probably marketed as a Brown Ale. Its recipe is, however, essentially the same as K and BM.

Not that there’s a huge difference between the Milds and the Bitter.  The latter has a slightly higher hopping rate, but not by a huge amount. The hopping rate for all their beers was quite a bit lower than in 1939. For K, the drop was 25% and for Bitter 21%. These would not have been voluntary changes.

The arrival of “C” Ale must have brought a smile to drinkers’ lips. Finally a beer with some real backbone. A type of beer peculiar to Manchester, “C” Ale was roughly similar to a London Burton Ale. The difference being that it was a bottled rather than a draught product.

Several breweries in the Manchester are produced “C” Ales. What the C referred to is anyone’s guess. It seems to have fizzled out sometime in the late 1950s or early 1960s. Lees version was dropped in 1953.

Lees beers in 1946
Date	Beer	Style	OG	lbs hops/ qtr	hops lb/brl	dry hops (oz / barrel)	boil time (hours)
1st Apr	BM	Mild	1033	5.06	0.73	1.03	1.75
6th Mar	Bot. B	Mild	1030	5.09	0.64	1.02	1.75
17th May	K	Mild	1028	5.09	0.60	0.95	1.75
26th Mar	B	Pale Ale	1038	5.75	0.89	1.36	1.75
25th Mar	“C” Ale	Strong Ale	1052	5.92	1.38	2.86	1.75
Source:
Lees brewing records held at the brewery

How this research shit works

No-one has been beating down my shed door to understand how my research process works. But, as I don't have the 1.89 for my cans of Lager yet, I'll take a little time to explain. Hopefully it will help dull that terrible craving for Ace.

"How do you come up with one of your wonderful historic recipes, Ron?"

I'm glad you asked that. As it's a far more complicated process than you might imagine.

There are three routes: public archives, private archives and the stuff I've been able to buy on the interweb.

I'm going route one today. Public archives.

Step 1.
Plan ahead. Try to work out from the proorly-described pulic catalogue what might be useful. Put all the reference numbers and description in a document and print it out. Hope that the catalogue really matches with the documents and that the descriptions are vaguely accurate.

Step 2.
Prepare your equipment. Charge your camera bateries - always have a spare and a charger to hand. And a few extra memory cards. And another extra battery can't do any harm.

Step 3.
Dress for the occasion. Black, black, black. Your clothes will most likely end up black from the grime coatint the records. Best to go with that. Very dark brown or blue will do at a pinch.

Step 4.
Prepare mentally. An hour of meditation or a monster line of speed work equally well. Make your choice based on time available, predisposition and the procurability of high-grade amphetamines. If neither is practical, have a really nice cup of tea. (Remembering to put the milk in first.)

Step 5.
Go mental photographing. Really mental. Really, really, really mental. Then go mental some more. Until your back aches and your mind moans stop this shit you mental bastard.The only photos you'll regret are the ones you didn't take.

Step 6.
Wind down. Prefereably at a pub run by Jeff Bell that serves Old Peculiar and Lagavullin. Have five of the former and two of the latter. Remembering to leave enough time to get to the airport for your flight home. And not to leave you camera in the pub.

Next time: how to turn those blurry photos of brewing records into recipes you can sell for cash money. Or exchange for beer.

Dodgy country club

I'm a busy person. Really. You don't all the crap sandwiches that have been dumped on my plate at the real life buffet.

Long quote today. But a fascinating one, as it reveals quite a lot of stuff about UK society. And its weird alcohol. laws

"SEQUEL TO A RAID ON NEW COUNTRY CLUB
Police Officer and Wife's visit
COURT PROCEEDINGS
A SEQUEL to frequent visits to the New Country Club at Middleton by a police officer and his wife, and subsequently a raid on the premises by other members of the police force, was heard on Wednesday, when forty summonses for alleged offences committed in contravention of the licensing laws were heard at the Arundel Police Court.

ERIC CHARLES ALLEN, of The Downs, Elmer Road, Middleton, the barman employed at the club, was summoned in nine instances for illegal sales of intoxicating liquor and in five cases for supplying intoxicating liquor otherwise than during permitted hours. GERTRUDE NELLIE HOEY, of 4, Middleton Court, Elmer Road, Middleton, was summoned for aiding and abetting and counselling all these offences, and she was further summoned for the illegal sale of liquor.

Other defendants were SYLVIA MILNE, of Lauriston, Ancton Drive, Middleton, summoned for aiding and abetting the sale of liquor; Christopher THOMAS COBB and lSOBEL COBB of La Terrasi, North Avenue, Middleton, summoned for aiding and abetting the supply of liquor; and, for consuming intoxicating liquor otherwise than during permitted hours; ISOBEL COBB, THOMAS COBB (two Cases), LESLIE ERNEST WALWIN (a member Of the Bognor Council); of High Street; Bognor Regis ; GIFFORD KENNETH TIPP, Of Elmer Garage, Elmer Road ; and SYLVIA MILNE, who was summoned in two instances.

The police also made an application for the club to be struck off the register.

Mr. HAROLD BROWN (counsel, instructed by Messrs. CHAMBERLAIN and MARTIN, of Bognor Regis, represented the defendants, and Mr. C. V. PORTER appeared on behalf of the prosecution.

The officer who frequently visited the club premises when in plain clothes and in company with his wife, was P.C. BARNETT, of Horsham. Giving evidence, he said that at 10.5 p.m. on January 18th, accompanied by his wife, Mrs. MILNE, Mr. TIPP, and Mr. and Mrs. COBB, he paid a visit to the Country Club. Just prior to their entering into the club room, he had some conversation with Mr. TIPP, and he made an entry in the visitors' book. There was an extension that night until 11.45. At 10.40 p.m. he asked Mrs. MILNE if he could have some drinks. She said. "You will have to do it secretly — give me the money, and I will pay." At the request of witness she ordered two whiskies, a gin and lime, a lager, a light ale, and half a pint of beer. He handed her a ten shilling note: this she placed under an ash tray on the counter. When the barman had served the drinks, he picked up the 10s. note and placed 5s. 4d. in change on the counter, which witness picked up. Mrs. HOEY was standing just inside the entrance to the club room. She was receiving guests and members, and paying attention to the visitors book. Later, when the bar became busy, she assisted the barman (ALLEN) in serving the drinks.

At 11.34 p.m., he asked ALLEN for a whisky, a light ale, and half a pint of beer. These drinks he supplied: witness tendered 2s. 6d. and received 7d. change.

Visited Club with Wife
Witness visited the club on Friday, Feruary 2nd, at 9.15 p.m., in company with his wife. The permitted hours for drinking was from 6 till 10 p.m. There were only four people in the club, and Mrs. HOEY was sitting by the fire. At 10.10 p.m., Mrs. MILNE purchased two whiskies and two light ales from the barman. These drinks were consumed by Mrs. MILNE and Mr. TIPP.. .

"Just a minute, I can't write as fast as you can drink," interposed the Clerk.

Witness, continuing, said the light ales were consumed by COBB and witness.

The barman put a screen round the bar counter. An opening was left in the counter,allowing access to be gained to the bar. At 10.15 p.m.. witness asked the barman, ALLEN. for two whiskies and two light ales. These were supplied and witness tendere4 2s. In payment and received Id. change. The whiskies were consumed by Mr. TIPP and Mr. WALWIN. Light ales were consumed by Mr. COBB and himself.

Mr. PORTER stated that those people had not been charged, as the drinks were purchased by witness.

At 10.25 p.m., the barman and ALLEN handed witness an application form for membership. This he completed, using his correct name, but an address of a relative, and described himself as a clerk. He was clerk in the Horsham office. Mr. COBB proposed, and Mr. TIPP seconded the application. It was handed to Mrs. HOEY by Mr. TIPP.

At 10.36, Mr. COBB purchased two lagers and a whisky from the barman ALLAN. The whisky was consumed by Mrs. MILNE, the lager by Mrs. COBB and witness's wife. After the departure of Mrs. MILNE, Mrs. HOEY passed the remark that she hoped everything would be all right as it was so late. At 11 p.m., witness asked Mrs. HOEY if she would have a drink. She said she would have a gin. Witness ordered a gin, a whisky and two light ales from the barman, ALLEN. Witness consumed one of the light ales and asked the barman how much the drinks were. He said 2s. 10d., and witness tendered the correct amount in payment.

A Whisky at 11.25
At 11.25 p.m., Mrs. Coss purchased a whisky and two light ales from the barman (ALLEN). The whisky was consumed by Mr. WALWIN, the light ales by Mr. Coss and himself. At 11.38 they left the premises. On Saturday, February 3rd, accompanied by his wife, witness entered the New Country Club at 9.20 p.m. There was an extension until 11.45. Mrs. HOEY was standing just inside the club room, meeting members as they arrived. No-one questioned witness's entry and no entry was made in the visitors' book. His form was not exhibited on the board. Mr. and Mrs. COBB were present. At 9.45 p.m. he ordered a light ale and half a pint of beer from the barman (ALLEN). These he supplied and witness tendered 2s. 6d. and received 1s. 7d. change. Witness consumed the half pint of beer. At 10.30 p.m., witness ordered a gin and lime and a light ale and half a pint of beer from ALLEN. Witness tendered 2s., and received 3d. change. The gin and lime was consumed by witness's wife, and the beer by himself. Soon after, he noticed Mrs. HOEY had gone behind the bar and was assisting the barman. At 11.10 p.m. he asked Mrs. HOEY for a gin and lime, and this was supplied.

The Final Visit
On Saturday, February 10th, accompanied by his wife, witness paid a final visit to the club. At 10.10 p.m.. he ordered a gin and lime and a light ale from the barman (At rs). Witness tendered 2s. 6d. in payment and received 1s. 2d. change. The gin and lime was consumed by his wife and the light ale by himself. At 10.35. he again ordered a gin and lime and a light ale from ALLEN, tendering 1s. 4d. in payment. Witness's wife consumed the gin, and he the ale. At 11 p.m., Inspector AKEHURST and other officers entered the club, and the names and addresses of those present were taken.

Cross-examined, witness said he did not tell Mrs. MILNE he was a shipping clerk from Streatham and that he was broke. He denied Mrs. MILNE refused to let him pay because he was "hard up." He knew there was a dance on Saturday and well known names in the entertainment world came to the club, and CHARLIE KUNZ, the famous pianist, visited the club. He did mention that his wife liked dancing, but Mrs. MILNE did ask him if he would like to go to the club. His wife did not like the job at all, said witness, when asked if his wife was eager to go to the club for dancing. A proper dance band had been engaged and the club was full when he made his first visit. Continued on Page 4

ANNIE FANNY BARNETT, of Horsham. wife of P.C. BARNETT, described her visits to the New Country Club at Middleton, in company with her husband.

THE DEFENCE
For the defence, Mr. BROWN presented a "clear and true picture" of the club, and said he hoped the magistrates would not think that this was just a club for drinking. It was primarily and essentially a social club with a substantial dance and billiard room.

There were two well known people connected with the club, CHARLIE KUNZ, the famous pianist, who was in court, and would give evidence if necessary, and Mr. HOEY, leader of the Piccadilly orchestra in London for 12 years. He was the husband of Mrs. HOEY, who was summoned. At the outbreak of war, Mr. KUNZ and Mr. HOEY, who had been to Bognor many times, brought their wives to the town and they took part in running the club. It was taken over from Major VEREY and Mr. KUNZ and Mr. Hoey spent about £600 on the club premises. Owing to their professional ability they were admirably suited to run a dance club.

During the nights when extensions were granted there had been no excessive drinking after time. There was no question of the extensions which the Bench had granted being abused. Even in the cases for which they had been summoned, there was no suggestion of drinking to one, two or three o'clock in the morning.

This club had a respectable membership, including people who would not belong to a "dirty little backdoor drinking club."

GERTRUDE NELLIE HOEY, wife of Mr. JERRY HOEY, said it was their intention to use the premises as a dance club. A radiogram provided the music during the week and on Saturday nights a band was engaged. Their membership included a good many honorary members, including Army and Air Force officers. Once a week the club was used by Lady COBHAM and her sewing party, working for the forces.

Saturdays were the busiest nights of any week. On January 20th the police officer and his wife were introduced and they had drinks, but did not buy them. She would not have served them had he asked.

Defendant admitted certain irregularities on February 2nd. After the shutters had been put up, an opening in the counter had to be left for those who had been serving to get out. Mr. BARNETT, at 11 p.m., asked if he could buy a drink, but she refused. Then BARNETT said : "Mrs. Hoey, I have not bought a drink in this club, and these people have been so kind to me." He was so insistent, said defendant that she eventually gave way. Defendant said there were no irregularities in the club, and as far as she knew all the laws had been complied with.

Cross-examined, witness said when her husband and Mr. KUNZ were not there she was responsible for the club. On Friday, February 10th, Mr. COBB offered to pay for BARNETT'S membership, and this was done on Sunday.

ALLEN said he had been employed at the club for one year and admitted that on February 3rd he served BARNETT with drinks. He did it on the assumption he was a member. Strict instructions had been given that no drinks were to be served to non-members after hours.

SYLVIA MILNE denied accepting money from BARNETT and slipping a 10s. note under the ash tray. She bought the drinks with her own money. On February 2nd, she had a drink at the time given by the prosecution as 10.10. The clock in the bar was 10 minutes fast.

CHRISTOPHER THOMAS COBB, an officer in the London A.F.S., denied allegations against him. He paid the membership fee for BARNETT. This was done as a friendly gesture.

ISOBEL COBB denied the allegptions made by the prosecution that she consumed liquor after hours. That evening she forgot to bring any money.

LESLIE ERNEST WALWIN, an insurance agent, of Bognor Regis, said he was in Bognor at 11.25 p.m. on the evening that he was accused of consuming liquor. He was a committee member of the club, and had only missed attending there on one Saturday.

After a time, the Bench announced heir decision that ALLEN should be fined £1 on each of the three summonses and £1 costs; Mrs. HOEY was fined £l0 on one summons and ordered to pay £5 3s. 4d. costs and SYLVIA MILNE was fined £2 on one summons, with £3 Os. 8d. costs.

On the other summonses the Chairman (Dr. G. W. EUSTACE) said that the Bench were not satisfied beyond all reasonable doubt, and that the cases had not been proved. However, the police had been quite justified in bringing them forward. An application for an order that the club should be struck off the register was withdrawn by the prosecution."
Bognor Regis Observer - Saturday 23 March 1940, page 1.

Call me cynical, but if this had been a working man's club, I reckon it would far more likely have been struck off the register. The phrase "dirty little backdoor drinking club" tells us so much.

But that's not what most interested me. It's the exact listing of the drinks ordered and the amounts paid for them. The rounds - Light Ale, gin and lime Lager - look very post-war in their preferences. It's all a bit Beer Nut-like precise. The drinks ordered, the money offered, the change given, the exact times. The secret PC must have been taking notes. Profesional habit, I suppose.

A bar clock that was 10 minutes fast - that's so tradtional in the UK.

Bit of a bastard that PC in plain clothes, accepting all those free drinks then grassing up his new mates.

This case was clearly a big deal in Bognor, given the large amount of space devoted to it in the local rag.

Let's Brew - 1939 Whitbread Extra Stout

Like Barclay Perkins, Whitbread produced quite an array of Stouts. Extra Stout, judging by its name and strength, was designed to compete with Guinness. I’m also pretty sure that this was the Stout they exported to Belgium.

I say pretty sure. Replace that with totally sure. I remembered that I have photos detailing Whitbread’s Belgian trade. They exported three beers: Pale Ale, Extra Stout and – here’s the surprise – Double Brown.

From the specifications, Whitbread Extra Stout looks very much like it’s intended as a direct competitor to the Guinness beer of the same name. That had a very similar strength. And, despite being a beer often brewed in a foreign country, adhered to the final set of price restrictions from WW I by having an OG around 1050º.

Distinctive features are the short boil time – just 75 minutes – and Polish hops. Looking at historic UK beers you eventually come across every type of hop ever grown in the whole world. But Polish hops are pretty rare.

1939 Whitbread Extra Stout
pale malt	7.50 lb	59.10%
mild malt	1.50 lb	11.82%
brown malt	1.00 lb	7.88%
chocolate malt	1.00 lb	7.88%
flaked oats	0.19 lb	1.50%
No. 3 invert sugar	1.00 lb	7.88%
caramel 1000 SRM	0.50 lb	3.94%
Lublin 75 mins	1.00 oz
Fuggles 75 mins	0.50 oz
Goldings 30 mins	1.50 oz
OG	1055.5
FG	1017
ABV	5.09
Apparent attenuation	69.37%
IBU	32
SRM	48
Mash at	148º F
Sparge at	170º F
Boil time	75 minutes
pitching temp	62º F
Yeast	Wyeast 1099 Whitbread Ale

I was in Dublin last weekend

No idea where I should go.

What do you think, Dolores?

OXO en casserole

Researching archive newspapers can be a very time-consuming occupation. Especially for someone as easily distracted as me.

For as much as I try to concentrate on the article that threw up the hits, my eyes are ineluctably enchanted by neightbouring pieces. All sorts of rubbish about the Yugoslavian cabinet's deliberations, an Italian Duke who had perished fighting in Greece, temperance wankers whingeing in the letters pages, weirdly imprecise reports of bomb damage, bizarre parliamentary debates (nothing changed there) and adverts.

Mainly the adverts distract. With their illustrations and snappy text. Then again, that is the point. If they didn't attract my attention, they'd be pretty crappy ads.

This one particularly harpooned my eyes. Because the product is still on the shelves. Including mine.

Manchester Evening News - Tuesday 19 November 1940, page 3.

I love the contradictory messages. On the one hand, the haut cuisine pretension of "en casserole". Followed by the more prosaic - and wartime appropriate:

"Dumplings cooked in vegetable water to which one or two OXO cubes have been added make a tasty alternative to a meat dish. The dumplings can be made with half flour and half oatmeal."

Not only are stock cubes substituted for meat, the dumplings are half ersatz themselves. The recipe does explain some of the meals I ate in childhood. By cooks versed in the wartime culinary arts.

I do like to keep a beer theme going on this blog. Like daily post, something I feel incapable of abandonning, no matter what the personal cost. Here goes.

To add a Manchester feel to the recipe, use a bottle of Mercer's Meat Stout instead of the OXO. Then taste that Stouty meaty goodness.

Obligatory beer reference completed.

Back the boring old number shit tomorrow.


Does that small girl in the photo have a perm?

An appeal to Texan brewers

Brewers in the San Antonio Austin area: fancy helping sponsor me to fly over and speak at the MBAA Spring conference? I'm happy to talk, make a collaboration beer, etc. in return.

Dolores is being firm about the terms under which I'm allowed to travel. "No more expensive trips, Ronald." 

Hence my need for sponsorship. Despite what many seem to think, this beer stuff isn't my job. Just a hobby that's gpot very out of hand.