Monday, 4 July 2022

Beer and water

I have to thank Gary Gillman for passing this newspaper article on to me. It's about an adulteration case brought in 1882. One whcih could have had huge implications for brewers and publicans, had it gone the wrong way.

Supt. Willam Sargant had gone to the Clayton Arms and ordered a pint of beer. He really was that vague in his order, not specifically asking for Bitter, Mild or another type of beer. As he paid 2d for his pint, the chances are it was Ordinary Mild. After being served his pint, Sargant asked for a jug because he wanted to send it to the County Analyst.

The landlord not only gave him a jug, but also three bottles to put the beer into. Very cooperative, in fact. Which does imply that the landlord didn't think tyhat he anything to fear. One of the bottles was sent to the County Analyst, Mr. Wanklyn.

Wanklyn analysed the beer and calculated that the OG was 1044.8º. And concluded that the sample was three parts beer and one part water. He doesn't seem to have been very well acquainted with brewing, because he assumed that to be considered beer, something had to have an OG of at least 1060º. So he assumed that a beer of 1044.8º must have been watered down from 1060º.

How on earth could Wanklyn make such a crap assumption? Because he was basically using the same method as he did for detecting watered milk. As milk has a generally consistent makeup, checking the water content is a perfectly valid method. But with beer, which can be brewed at a variety of gravities, it's less than useless to assume that it must have started out at a minimum of 1060º.

Wanklyn was very confident in his assumption. He refused to call the sample beer and kept referring to it as "beer and water". He rather rashly claimed that beer was never brewed as weak as 1044.8º.

"Isn’t there more water in some kinds of beer than others? — Oh, a great deal. There are very strong beers and weaker beers ; but this is weaker than the weakest beer I ever met with."
Bucks Herald - Saturday 09 December 1882, page 7.

Now even I know, almost 150 years later, that he was talking bollocks. There were plenty of beers being brewed at gravities below 1050º. As this table shows.

Beers with an OG below 1050º 1878 - 1885
Year Brewer Beer Style OG FG ABV App. Atten-uation lbs hops/ qtr hops lb/brl
1878 Adnams AK Pale Ale 1044.3       11.67 2.82
1878 Adnams IA Mild Ale 1044.3       11.67 2.67
1878 Adnams XX Mild Ale 1048.5       8.57 2.79
1882 Whitbread FA Pale Ale 1048.8 1015.0 4.47 69.32% 13.00 3.06
1880 Chapman AK Pale Ale 1045.4 1005.5 5.28 87.80% 10.00 2.17
1878 Tetley K ? 1042.9 1012.7 3.99 70.32% 2.00 0.35
1878 Tetley X Mild  1044.3 1013.3 4.10 70.00% 4.76 0.77
1878 Tetley X1 Mild  1048.5 1011.1 4.95 77.14% 6.23 1.16
1885 Kirkstall AK Pale Ale 1049.9       12.42 2.01
1885 Kirkstall L Mild 1049.3       5.67 1.20
1879 Younger, Wm.  T Table Beer 1030 1005 3.31 83.33% 6.67 0.89
1879 Younger, Wm.  50/- Ale 1036 1007 3.84 80.56% 6.92 0.95
1879 Younger, Wm.  S 50/- Ale 1042 1012 3.97 71.43% 2.94 0.55
1879 Younger, Wm.  H 60/- Ale 1039 1010 3.84 74.36% 2.94 0.51
1879 Younger, Wm.  H 60/- Ale 1040 1004 4.76 90.00% 6.25 1.06
1879 Younger, Wm.  2XP IPA 1046 1009 4.89 80.43% 9.00 1.94
1879 Younger, Wm.  X Mild 1044 1010 4.50 77.27% 7.22 1.41
1879 Younger, Wm.  S3 Stout 1032 1011 2.78 65.63% all spent hops  
1879 Younger, Wm.  S3 Stout 1043 1010 4.37 76.74% 4.71 0.86
1885 Thomas Usher IP IPA 1047 1013 4.50 72.34% 8.00 1.61
1885 Thomas Usher 60/- B Ale 1041.5 1015 3.51 63.86% 5.00 0.92
1885 Thomas Usher 40/- B Ale 1030 1011 2.51 63.33% 5.00 0.66
1884 Mew Langton FA Pale Ale 1049.9 1005.5 5.86 88.89% 10.00 2.09
Sources:
Adnams brewing record held at the brewery.
Whitbread brewing record held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document number LMA/4453/D/01/048.
Chapman brewing record held at the Oxfordshire Records Office, document number 833/A10/2.
Tetley brewing record held at the West Yorkshire Archives, document number WYL756/25/ACC1903.
William Younger brewing record held at the Scottish Brewing Archive, document number WY/6/1/2/28.
Thomas Usher brewing record held at the Scottish Brewing Archive, document number TU/6/1/1.
Brewing record held at the Isle of Wight Record Office, document number ML/44/1.

I went for below 1050º as there are just way too many beers with gravities below 1060º.

The defence had a very simple way of proving the beer hadn't been watered: they got the George Brakspear, who brewed the beer and the excise man who had checked the gravity to testify. They confirmed that the beer had been brewed at 1046º. Near enough the gravity calculated by Wanklyn.

To finally put the boot in they got a more prestigious analyst, Edmund Southby, to testify. He declared that Wanklyn's "standard" was totally arbitrary and not used by anyone other than Wanklyn himself. At which point the case was dismissed.

Sunday, 3 July 2022

Reminder of my new books

In case you hadn't noticed, this week I published two new books..

 The first is about Berliner Weisse.

 Buy your copy now!


The second is a compilation of travel reports. Which, based on previous books of this sort, I doubt expect to shift many copies. Or any copies, for that matter. It is in full colour, if that tempts you.

 Buy this wonderful book!

 

Support independent publishing: buy this book on Lulu.

 

DDR Dunkles

When I was hanging around in the DDR in the 1980s, I mostly only came across a few styles of beer. Helles, Pilsner and the occasional Bock. And in Berlin, Berliner Weisse.

Other types of beer did exist. I know that both from label images and from the DDR standards for beer. The standards document, TGL 7764, is wonderfully useful for seeing the full diversity of beers brewed. Even though, I might add, I never saw most of them.

DDR beer styles 1987 - 1990
Type OG Plato ABV App. Atten-uation CO2 Content Isohumulon Content EBC colour
  % % % % min. Mg/l  
Dunkel (Einfachbier) 5.7 - 6.2 1.84 55 - 65 0.35 3 - 11 min 79
Alkoholfreies Bier 6.5 - 7.0   10 - 15 0.42 22 - 28 max 12
Weissbier 7.0 - 8.0 2.90 min 75 0.60 nothing specified 9 - 15
Extra 8.5 - 9.0 3.41 min 75 0.45 22 - 34 max 12
Hell 9.5 - 10.0 3.82 min 75 0.40 16 - 26 max 14
Edel-Bräu Hell 10.5 - 11.0 4.23 min 75 0.42 16 - 28 max 14
Dunkel (Vollbier) 10.0 - 10.5 4.02 min 75 0.40 16 - 26 min 79
Doppel-Karamelbier 11.7 - 12.2 0.63 - 1.5 nothing specified 0.42 3 - 10 min 93
Schwarzbier 11.7 - 12.2 4.12 60 - 70 0.42 20 - 34 min 160
Deutsches Pilsner 10.5 - 11.0 4.23 min 75 0.40 22 - 34 max 12
Diabetiker-Pils 10.0 - 10.5     0.42 22 - 34 max 13
Lagerbier Hell 11.5 - 12.0 4.65 min 75 0.42 20 - 34 max 31
Lagerbier Dunkel 11.5 - 12.0 4.65 min 75 0.42 14 - 26 min 40
Lagerbier Spezial 11.5 - 12.0 4.65 min 75 0.42 20 - 34 max 31
Lagerbier Dunkel Spezial 11.5 - 12.0 4.65 min 75 0.42 14 - 26 min 40
Deutsches Pilsator 11.5 - 12.0 4.83 min 78 0.42 26 - 39 max 12
Deutsches Pilsner Spezial 11.5 - 12.0 4.83 min 78 0.42 26 - 39 max 12
Spitzenbier 12.0 - 12.5 4.86 min 73 0.45 28 - 40 max 18
Märzen 13.5 - 14.0 5.13 min 70 0.42 20 - 34 max 110
Weißer Bock oder Bockbier Hell 15.0 - 15.5 5.86 68 - 75 0.40 14 - 26 21 - 43
Dunkler Bock oder Bockbier Dunkel 15.0 - 15.5 5.62 65 - 72 0.40 10 - 25 min 83
Deutscher Porter 17.5 - 18.0 6.10 min 64 0.42 35 - 50 min 160
Source:
TGL 7764

The isohumulon content is pretty much the same as IBU. Which is interesting to know.

The sharp-eyed amongst you might have noticed that there were in fact three types of Dunkles: Dunkles Vollbier, Lagerbier Dunkel and Lagerbier Dunkel Spezial. Though the specs for the last two are identical.

I think that the odd Dunkles is still brewed in the former DDR. But they aren't very common. Schwarzbier seems to be the most popular type of Dark Lager in the East currently. Despite having been a very obscure style before 1990.

I'll finish with some lovely labels. You might notice something unusual about them. They come in a variety of colours. Usually, the colour of the label was specified in the standards. But not for Dunkles, leaving it a free for all.













 


Saturday, 2 July 2022

Let's Brew - 1913 Boddington XXX

The only Boddington Mild to retain its 1901 name was XXX. Though it had lost 7º in gravity. Don’t ask me why it hadn’t become BBB.

It might look impressively strong for a Mild to modern eyes. But in London it would only have counted as a single X. A base-level Mild.

Other than the introduction of flaked maize, not much has happened to the grist. Still mostly base malt. Just a tiny bit less of it. The sugar is a pure guess. It’s most likely some type of invert. I’m pretty sure about that. Pretty sure, but I could be totally wrong.

I find it odd that the three Mild recipes, while pretty similar, are by no means identical. I suppose that, as Boddington didn’t parti-gyle, they didn’t need to use exactly the same recipe for each.

The hopping rate had fallen considerably, from 5.7 lbs per quarter (336 lbs) of malt in 1901 to 3.6 lbs.

The hops were the same as in BB. Copper: English from the 1909, 1911, and 1912 harvests; Californian from 1911. Dry hops: English from the 1911 and 1912 seasons; Californian from 1911.

1913 Boddington XXX
pale malt 10.25 lb 87.23%
flaked maize 1.00 lb 8.51%
No. 3 invert sugar 0.50 lb 4.26%
Cluster 155 mins 0.50 oz
Fuggles 60 mins 0.75 oz
Fuggles 30 mins 0.75 oz
Cluster dry hops 0.125 oz
Fuggles dry hops 0.25 oz
OG 1052
FG 1017
ABV 4.63
Apparent attenuation 67.31%
IBU 27
SRM 7
Mash at 154º F
Sparge at 168º F
Boil time 155 minutes
pitching temp 62º F
Yeast Wyeast 1318 London ale III (Boddingtons)

Friday, 1 July 2022

Duttson's Brewing Materials

The Duttson name turns up quite a bit in brewing records. As does CDM. They must have had a large number of customers for their brewing sugars.

I came across an advert of theirs a while ago. I'm only just realising how useful some of the information is.

MALTO-DEXTRIN
Is a brilliant Syrup containing 84 per cent. (calculated on the dry matter) of Dextrin and Maltose, which exist as an unfermentable combination; consequently it will be found very useful for increasing the Dextrin in Beers, giving them fulness and adding to their stability.

MALTO-DEXTRIN may also be used as a Priming, the 12 per cent. of fermentable matter which it contains is gradually split up during Cask fermentation, creating persistent condition.

CARAMELIZED DEXTRO-MALTOSE.
C.D.M. is FREE from the acrid flavour of Caramel, therefore can be used to advantage in the production of Porter and Stout.

It is not fermentable, consequently can be added to Wort prior to fermentation.

C.D.M.is of high tinctorial power (112 lb. being capable of imparting as much colouring power as a quarter of best Black Malt). When used in suitable proportions as a black malt adjunct produces a soft mellow Stout or Porter, unobtainable when Black Malt alone is employed.

IT IMPARTS INCREASED PERMANENT PALATE FULLNESS, and a RICH BROWN HEAD.

C.D.M. can be profitably employed; compared with Black Malt it yields a large extract — i.e., 256 lb. (the Excise equivalent for a quarter of Malt) gives an extract of 74 BBEWERS’ lb.

It is sent out in casks of 1 cwt. and 2 cwt.
"Brewing and Malting Practically Considered", by Frank Thatcher, 1898, The Country Brewers' Gazette, page 161.

Malto-dextrin is unfermentable. Except for when it is. Having a relatively small amount of fermentasble amterial which is released slowly sounds perfect for secondary conditioning. Was it the enzymes in the dry hops that broke it down?

I wonder if CDM was unfermentable in the same way? 1 cwt. (112 lbs) having the same colouring power as a quarter (336 lbs) of black malt. Obviously, some black malt character was still required as CDM was suggested to be used in conjunction with it, rather than as a replacement.