Tuesday, 13 December 2016

Tied house sales

I was looking for some statistics on UK beer exports. So I had a dive in "The British Brewing Industry 1830 - 1980". Didn’t find exactly what I was after. But I did find this: a breakdown of sales for various breweries between their tied houses and the free trade.

It's a topic I’d wanted to get some hard facts on. I was aware that the percentage of sales in their own tied estate varied a lot between breweries. With some not really selling into the free trade at all. Holts used to be like that in the 1980’s. They wouldn’t even sell to beer festivals. While others, especially Scottish brewers, had almost no tied trade.

The numbers below confirm this diversity. Though there are a couple of caveats. Scottish brewers may have owned very few pubs, but they made extensive use of loans ties. They controlled far more outlets than they owned.

And the club trade is counted as free. Even though most clubs were really tied. All the Liberal clubs in Leeds, for example, seemed to be tied to S & N. Bass Charrington also had a large chunk of the club trade tied up, as well as the many pubs they owned.

Also counted as free are a lot of off sales. Though not all, as breweries often owned off-licences as well as pubs. Off-sales also made up a much smaller percentage of sales back then.

One thing that stands out is the huge difference in the trade of three London brewers: Barclay Perkins, Meux and Whitbread. The first two had the typical tied estate model, with the vast majority of their beer sold in their own pubs. While Whitbread sold almost half their beer in the free trade. I think I understand why: they had long bottled a large percentage of their beer and had managed to get their bottled products into rivals’ pubs. Later clever use of the Whitbread “umbrella” got their bottles into even more other breweries’ tied houses.

I was surprised at just how big Ind Coope and Allsopp already were in the 1940’s, with an estate about half the size of one of the smaller members of the Big Six in the 1970’s.

Brewers' tied estates and free-trade distribution, 1948/9
Brewing company Barrelage distributed to on/off licensed premises Tied estate Tenanted Managed

Tied estate % free trade/clubs canteens % (numbers) % %
All (Brewers' Society Survey)* 69 31 54,940 83 17
Average of 22 Companies** 73 27 12,914 82 18
Barclay Perkins 88 12 1,005 96 4
Boddingtons' 99.9 0.1 209 75 25
Brakspear 93 7 141 97 3
Bristol Brewery Georges 94 6 756 98 2
Matthew Brown 87 13 550 93 7
Cameron 93 7 362 93 7
Eldridge Pope 81 19 192 92 8
J. W. Green 89 11 358 100 0
Greene King 88 12 502 82 18
Hall & Woodhouse 95 5 140 100 0
Ind Coope & Allsopp 68 32 2,697 79 21
McEwan 19 81 57 7 93
Meux 90 10 341 75 25
Mitchells & Butlers 77 23 873 14 86
Newcastle 85 15 324 59 41
Russells & Wrangham 37 63 93 90 10
H. & G. Simonds 63 37 1,222 94 6
John Smith's 74 26 842 75 25
Steward & Patteson 95 5 614 99.8 0.2
Strong 91 9 468 92 8
Tetley 64 36 378 86 14
Whitbread 51 49 808 96 4
Source:
"The British Brewing Industry 1830 - 1980" by T.R. Gourvish and R.G. Wilson, 1994, page 436.
* Barrelage data include Scotland, tied house data England and Wales only.
** Companies = earlier selection of 35, excluding Bass, Guinness and Tamplin (who made no returns) and Arrol, Colchester and Style & Winch (the subject of takeovers, but adding Simonds, Strong and Eldridge Pope. 
Source: Brewers' Society, Brewing Returns, 1949, BS.

Monday, 12 December 2016

Brewing materials 1945 – 1960

I can’t believe I haven’t already published this stuff as part of my series on brewing in the UK after W II.

After all, what could be more fascinating than a load of numbers about malt and adjunct usage? Well, I find it fascinating. You can bugger off if you disagree.

I’ll start with the numbers. You’ll have to admit, they are an impressive-looking bunch.

Brewing materials 1945 - 1960 (cwt)
year malt unmalted corn rice, maize, etc sugar total malt & adjuncts hops prepar-ations of hops hop substi-tutes bulk barrels
1945 10,435,212 245,751 1,332,032 1,784,064 13,797,059 244,822 714 139 31,990,334
1946 9,976,998 137,750 1,132,748 1,790,021 13,037,517 226,197 1,414 168 31,066,950
1947 9,454,253 92,974 614,335 1,601,186 11,762,748 217,759 1,423 191 30,103,180
1948 9,499,794 69,939 606,881 1,443,558 11,620,172 231,470 630 547 28,813,725
1949 9,087,351 60,709 505,071 1,303,212 10,956,343 233,158 164 74 26,744,457
1950 9,094,097 56,174 454,500 1,285,877 10,890,648 232,979 114 90 25,339,062
1951 9,282,152 57,681 452,581 1,355,152 11,147,566 229,106 178 82 24,870,564
1952 9,312,437 51,992 467,189 1,385,836 11,217,454 228,512 114 177 25,285,589
1953 9,085,688 58,012 426,396 1,405,154 10,975,250 225,569 335 222 24,789,130
1954 8,629,252 52,219 462,005 1,484,605 10,628,081 216,841 286 188 24,153,387
1955 8,635,522 46,556 478,150 1,529,256 10,689,484 217,716 92 27 24,324,623
1956 8,630,145 40,038 486,838 1,544,258 10,701,279 218,820 110 42 24,187,096
1957 8,872,468 13,834 532,214 1,564,673 10,983,189 215,114 91 28 24,839,755
1958 8,642,500 10,717 543,467 1,527,997 10,724,681 208,870 102 24 24,129,462
1959 8,885,364 8,007 590,006 1,569,002 11,052,379 216,037 107 29 25,023,044
1960 9,406,860 8,994 573,252 1,650,843 11,639,949 226,371 111 24 26,313,796
Sources:
Brewers' Almanack 1955, page 62.
1971 Brewers' Almanack, page 54.

You can see that while the use of unmalted adjuncts declined steeply after the war, the amount of sugar used was more stable. There’s a simple enough explanation. Brewers were forced by the government to use flaked barley during the latter war years. The idea being that flaking consumed less energy than malting. While brewers had a limit on the amount of sugar they could use in wartime, when they would have preferred to use more.

The quantity of hops used was very stable in the 1950’s, despite beer production falling.

It’s hard to make too much sense of those numbers. Far easier if you look at percentages rather than absolute numbers. Which is why I’ve derived this table:

Brewing materials 1945 - 1960 (%)
year malt unmalted corn rice, maize, etc sugar lbs hops per barrel lbs hops per quarter
1945 75.63% 1.78% 9.65% 12.93% 0.86 5.96
1946 76.53% 1.06% 8.69% 13.73% 0.82 5.83
1947 80.37% 0.79% 5.22% 13.61% 0.81 6.22
1948 81.75% 0.60% 5.22% 12.42% 0.90 6.69
1949 82.94% 0.55% 4.61% 11.89% 0.98 7.15
1950 83.50% 0.52% 4.17% 11.81% 1.03 7.19
1951 83.27% 0.52% 4.06% 12.16% 1.03 6.91
1952 83.02% 0.46% 4.16% 12.35% 1.01 6.84
1953 82.78% 0.53% 3.89% 12.80% 1.02 6.91
1954 81.19% 0.49% 4.35% 13.97% 1.01 6.86
1955 80.79% 0.44% 4.47% 14.31% 1.00 6.84
1956 80.65% 0.37% 4.55% 14.43% 1.01 6.87
1957 80.78% 0.13% 4.85% 14.25% 0.97 6.58
1958 80.59% 0.10% 5.07% 14.25% 0.97 6.54
1959 80.39% 0.07% 5.34% 14.20% 0.97 6.57
1960 80.82% 0.08% 4.92% 14.18% 0.96 6.53
Sources:
Brewers' Almanack 1955, page 62.
1971 Brewers' Almanack, page 54.

You can see the trends much more clearly in that form. Malt usage increased from 75% to a peak of 83.5% in 1950, then slowly fell back down to 80%. While unmalted corn all but disappears. Maize and rice usage dropped quickly after the end of the war then plateaued at around 5%.

The fall in the proportion of sugar used in 1949 and 1950 probably wasn’t voluntary, but as a result of government restrictions. Pre-war, it clocked in around 15% and you can see that when brewers were free to use as much as they liked in the later 1950’s, it returned to around that level.

The rise in hopping levels after 1947 is partly because of an increase in average gravity, though not totally, as the hopping rate per quarter of malt tells us. There was an increase of more than 1 lb per quarter between 1945 and 1950, after which it declined but still remained above the 1945 level.

The 1960 numbers – 80% malt, 5% adjuncts, 15% sugar, 1 lb hops per barrel – do look like a typical late 1950’s beer’s ingredients.

Sunday, 11 December 2016

Beer in 1958 (part four)

It’s time to look at the financial aspect of the brewing industry. And by that I mostly mean tax.

For centuries, the tax on beer has formed a considerable part of its price. And, conversely, the tax on beer has been a vital source of revenue for the government. This was even more the case during the first half of the twentieth century, with two expensive World Wars that needed to be paid for.

“More efficient methods - the brewing industry invests from £8m. to £10m. a year in new plant, buildings, and vehicles, roughly a tenth of its net output — have kept the rise in the cost of making beer to below the rise in the prices of its main constituents and below the rise of prices in general. But prices of beer do not fully reflect this because of the great increase in excise duty, which averaged just over 2d. a pint before the war and now averages about 8d. In the cheapest mild (1s. 2d. a pint now. compared with 4d. until almost the eve of war in 1939) the duty represents almost half the price. According to the Census of Production, in 1951 it represented nearly two-thirds of the value of beer when dispatched from the brewery. The duty is based on the gravity of the malt extract before it is fermented.”
"Beer in Britain", 1960, pages 5 - 6.

Consolidation was responsible for some of the fall in the cost of production. We’ve already seen how average output per brewery rose by around 50% during the 1950’s.

Want to see if they’ve got their numbers right on the tax per pint? I have the odd number or two:

Beer tax 1939 - 1960
Year Bulk Barrels Std. Barrels Tax/Std. Brl Total Tax £ Tax/Bulk Brl. Av. sg tax pint
1939 24,674,992 18,364,156 80s 62,370,034 50s 7d 1040.9 2.11d
1940 25,366,782 18,738,619 80s / 104s 75,157,022 59s 3d 1040.6 2.47d
1940 104s /135s / 165s
1941 26,203,803 18,351,113 135s / 165s 133,450,205 101s 10d 1038.5 4.24d
1942 29,860,798 19,294,605 165s /240s 7.5d 157,254,430 105s 4d 1035.5 4.39d
1943 29,296,672 18,293,919 240s 7.5d / 281s 10.5d 209,584,343 143s 1d 1034.3 5.96d
1944 30,478,289 19,193,773 281s 10.5d / 286s 5.5d 263,170,703 172s 8d 1034.6 7.20d
1945 31,332,852 19,678,449 286s 5.5d 278,876,870 178s 1034.5 7.42d
1946 32,650,200 20,612,225 286s 5.5d 295,305,369 180s 11d 1034.7 7.54d
1947 29,261,398 17,343,690 286s 5.5d 250,350,829 171s 1d 1032.6 7.13d
1948 30,408,634 18,061,390 325s 5d 264,112,043 173s 9d 1032.7 7.24d
1949 26,990,144 16,409,937 364s 4.5d / 343s 4.5d 294,678,035 218s 4d 1033.4 9.10d
1950 26,513,997 16,337,315 343s 4.5d 263,088,673 198s 5d 1033.9 8.27d
1951 24,891,746 16,739,464 321s 249,146,244 200s 2d 1037 8.34d
1952 25,156,489 16,958,628 321s 248,165,812 197s 4d 1037.1 8.22d
1953 24,883,227 16,681,119 321s 243,372,425 195s 7d 1036.9 8.15d
1954 24,582,303 16,525,316 321s 242,031,712 196s 11d 1037 8.20d
1955 23,934,215 16,161,698 321s 237,452,121 198s 5d 1037.1 8.27d
1956 24,551,158 16,618,162 321s 243,682,807 198s 6d 1037.2 8.27d
1957 24,506,524 16,674,001 321s 245,374,441 200s 3d 1037.4 8.34d
1958 24,647,978 16,799,108 321s 246,077,234 199s 8d 1037.5 8.32d
1959 23,783,833 16,226,433 321s 238,722,997 200s 9d 1037.5 8.36d
1960 26,115,012 17,688,007 277s 5d 206,221,271 157s 11d 1037.3 6.58d
Sources:
1955 Brewers' Almanack
1971 Brewers' Almanack
Brewers' Society Statistical Handbook 1988, p.7
Brewers' Society Statistical Handbook 1973, p.11


You can see that the tax did, indeed, come to about 8d per pint. Though this is for a beer of average strength, around 1037º. Ordinary Mild was around 1030-1032º and the tax on it would have been a little less.

Average tax per pint was 2d in 1939. But the cheapest 4d Milds had an OG well below the average of 1041º, usually around 1027º. The tax on a beer of that strength was 1.67d, still a considerable percentage of the retail price.

The rate of tax was remarkably stable: 321s from 1951 to 1959. And then something really unusual happened. Tax fell by almost 2d per pint.

“The scale of tax—which contributed £260m. to the Exchequer last year—is such that the tax rises steeply as beer is made stronger. Some brewers complain that this discourages the sale of the belter beers. But it is likely that the better beers nevertheless usually get a larger percentage of profit, and people do not seem as sensitive about their prices as they are about the price of the successor to the 4d. mild. If the tax is in its form and perhaps in its weight anomalous, it does not dismay the brewers or daunt the enterprise and initiative of this vigorous industry with its 3,000 brands of mild and bitter, pale ale and brown ale, lager, stout and stingo.”
"Beer in Britain", 1960, page 6.

A word of explanation. Tax was levied per standard barrel. A standard barrel being 36 gallons of beer with an OG of 1055º.  Stronger or weaker beers were taxed in proportion to that, so one of 1100º would be double the standard barrel rate, while one of 1027.5º would pay half. It makes strong beers expensive to brew, as the article says. Though before WW I, when the same tax system was in place, there were lots of strong beer about.

More about beer and money next.

Saturday, 10 December 2016

Let's Brew - 1912 Thomas Usher 48/- Stout

It’s fascinating to see how Scottish Stout gradually diverged from English versions. In particular, from London Stouts which were, after all, the originals.

By the eve of WW I, English and Scottish had split wide apart. As the 20th century progressed, that gap became even wider.

Thomas Usher vs London Porter and Stout 1909 - 1912
Year Brewer Beer Style OG FG ABV App. Atten-uation lbs hops/ qtr hops lb/brl
1912 Whitbread P Porter 1054.3 1013.0 5.47 76.08% 4.92 1.16
1912 Whitbread LS Stout 1055.3 1013.0 5.60 76.50% 4.92 1.18
1912 Whitbread Exp S Stout 1068.4 1020.0 6.41 70.77% 13.05 4.24
1912 Whitbread SS Stout 1079.9 1030.0 6.60 62.43% 8.48 3.12
1912 Whitbread SSS Stout 1095.8 1039.0 7.51 59.28% 8.48 3.74
1910 Barclay Perkins OMS Stout 1053.2 1016.5 4.86 68.98% 7.50 1.82
1910 Barclay Perkins BS Ex Stout 1076.0 1022.5 7.08 70.39% 12.00 4.12
1910 Barclay Perkins EIP Ex Porter 1063.5 1020.0 5.75 68.50% 12.00 3.40
1911 Barclay Perkins RDP Porter 1068.2 1023.5 5.91 65.54% 8.00 2.52
1909 Truman Imperial Stout Stout 1094.2 5.6 2.72
1909 Truman SS? Stout 1072.0 5.6 2.08
1909 Truman Runner L & C Porter 1054.3 6.1 1.38
1909 Truman Country Runner Porter 1058.2 7.5 2.01
1909 Truman Bottling Porter 1052.6 7.5 1.82
1909 Truman Export Stout Stout 1069.3 9.9 3.35
1909 Truman Runner Porter 1058.2 8.2 2.31
1909 Truman Keeping Stout Stout 1069.3 9.5 3.29
1912 Thomas Usher 48/- Stout 1046 1023 3.04 50.00% 6.50 1.36
1912 Thomas Usher 54/- Stout 1054 1026 3.70 51.85% 6.50 1.60
1912 Thomas Usher Stt Stout 1070 1029 5.42 58.57% 6.50 2.07
Sources:
Barclay Perkins brewing record held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document number ACC/2305/1/602
Whitbread brewing record held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document number LMA/4453/D/09/106
Truman  brewing record held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document number B/THB/C/112
Thomas Usher brewing record held at the Scottish Brewing Archive, document number TU/6/1/5.


What were those differences? Scottish Stouts generally had lower gravities and a poorer degree of attenuation. Not even London Porter had a gravity under 1050º. 1046º is very low for a pre-WW I Stout. Usher’s strongest Stout, Stt, is only about the same strength as the weakest London Stouts.

Note that the degree of attenuation increases with the OG. Leaving the FGs of the three Stouts very similar. This is a trick I’ve seen before in Scottish beers. Maclay did something similar with their three Pale Ales. I guess the point is to have a similar level of body and sweetness in all three.

Interestingly, one area where there is no real difference is the level of hopping. Contrary to what some would tell you about Scottish beers. Usher’s Stouts have similar levels of hopping as London beers of a similar gravity. The only exceptions being the London Export Stouts which naturally would have been more heavily hopped.

The biggest change in the grist compared to their 19th-century Stouts is the absence of black malt, which has been replaced by chocolate malt. Before WW I, London brewers stuck with black malt, but Whitbread also swapped over to chocolate malt in 1922.

The original recipe contains six types of sugar: 4 cwt. CDA, 1 cwt. Maltosan, 2 cwt. oatine, 3 cwt. DL, 10 cwt Penang. I assume oatine contained oats in some form, so feel free to throw in some flaked oats if you fancy. CDA is some sort of proprietary dark sugar. No idea what Maltosan and DL are, but Penang will be some type of cane sugar. I’ve simplified it to just No. 3 invert.

The very long boil is probably because 48/- was parti-gyled with the stronger Stout. Or maybe they wanted to darken the wort. I won’t get angry if you stick to a more conventional, shorter boil.


1912 Thomas Usher 48/- Stout
pale malt 6.75 lb 69.23%
brown malt 0.50 lb 5.13%
choc. Malt 0.50 lb 5.13%
crystal malt 60L 0.50 lb 5.13%
No. 3 invert 1.50 lb 15.38%
Fuggles 90 min 1.00 oz
Fuggles 60 min 1.00 oz
Fuggles 30 min 1.00 oz
OG 1046
FG 1023
ABV 3.04
Apparent attenuation 50.00%
IBU 37
SRM 24
Mash at 148º F
Sparge at 170º F
Boil time 240 minutes
pitching temp 60º F
Yeast WLP028 Edinburgh Ale