Thursday, 5 June 2014

Truman Brick Lane gravities 1925 - 1933

As promised, I'm now taking a look at Truman's beers themselves. Based on information in document B/THB/C/256c.

This wasn't Truman's full beer range. Their brewery in Burton provided all of the posher Pale Ales and Burton Ales, including Barley Wine.

The Pale Ales they brewed in London, LK (London Keeper) and BLK (its bottled form), were really more like Light Ales.

In 1925, their range was this, in terms of styles:

2 Pale Ales
2 Mild Ales
1 Strong Ale
1 Porter
5 Stouts

What's odd about that? Do you remember the breakdown of Truman output by Ales and Stouts? In 1925, just 28% of Brick Lane's output was Stout. Yet there were more different types of Ale brewed than Stout. The inevitable conclusion is that some of the Stouts must have been brewed in pretty small quantities.

In 1933 just under 44,000 barrels of Stout were brewed, but there were seven different types. Meaning, on average, a bit over 6,000 barrels were brewed of each type. While in the same year 240,000 barrels were brewed of 9 types of Ale, an average of over 26,000 barrels of each type.

You can clearly see the fault line of Snowden's 1931 emergency budget again. The gravity of every beer in the range fell between 1931 and 1932. Except for those which were discontinued or appeared in that year.

Notable changes are the replacement of X by the weaker LM (though X did reappear the following year). Considering X was probably their biggest-selling beer, that's quite a significant move. A weaker Brown Ale was introduced, one that's obviously a bottled version of the weak Mild A. The name, NBA, stands for Nut Brown Ale. Sp. A looks like another draught variation of A, quite possibly coloured differently at racking time. Barclay Perkins introduced a very dark version of their Ale around this time.

Over on the Stout side, Stout was split into two differently-priced versions and the two versions of CS replaced by a single, weaker one.

What else have I learned? That Truman started brewing a Brown Ale in 1926. And that it was stronger than their strongest Mild Ale. Though I do know that it was parti-gyled with it. How do I know that? From another dead handy document. One that we'll be looking at soon.


Truman Brick Lane gravities 1925 - 1933
Beer Style 1925 1926 1927 1928 1929 1930 1931 1932 1933
BLK Pale Ale 1040.0 1040.0 1040.0 1039.8 1039.8 1039.8 1039.8 1036.4 1036.4
LK Pale Ale 1029.2 1029.2 1029.2 1029.3 1029.3 1029.1 1029.2 1028.4 1028.4
SA Strong Ale 1056.2 1055.8 1055.8 1055.9 1055.7 1055.7 1055.6 1049.2 1047.5
X Mild 1043.0 1043.1 1043.0 1042.9 1042.8 1042.7 1042.9 1039.5
LM Mild 1034.8 1034.8
BA Brown Ale
1044.6 1044.8 1044.8 1044.7 1044.7 1044.8 1041.7 1041.7
A Mild 1029.4 1029.4 1029.4 1029.5 1029.4 1029.5 1029.6 1028.4 1028.4
Sp. A Mild 1028.4 1028.4
NBA Brown Ale 1028.4 1028.4
Stock IDS Stout 1083.7 1083.6 1095.4
BS Stout 1058.4 1058.5 1058.3 1058.4 1058.7 1058.8 1059.0 1053.7 1053.7
St. Stout 1050.1 1050.2 1050.2 1050.2 1050.3 1050.1 1050.5
St. 8d Stout 1047.8 1047.8
St. 7d Stout 1040.9 1040.9
CS Town Stout 1044.8 1047.1 1046.7 1046.3 1048.5 1049.1 1049.0
CS Country Stout 1044.3 1045.4 1045.3 1045.3
CS B 1038.9 1038.9
R Porter 1037.4 1037.5 1037.5 1037.4 1037.2 1037.2 1037.1 1035.3 1035.3
SS Stout 1054.5 1054.7 1054.6 1054.4 1054.5 1054.8 1054.8 1050.3 1050.3
Scotch St. Stout 1058.4
RDS Stout 1044.5
Source:
Document B/THB/C/256c held at the London Metropolitan Archives

Wednesday, 4 June 2014

Barclay Perkins and Dreher

I just had to tell you about this. I've found a connection between two of my favourite obsessions, Barclay Perkins and Dreher.

This is it:

"The Barclay and Perkins of Vienna, Herr Dreher, died suddenly a few days ago. He was the best producer of Vienna beer, and died worth from 6,000,000fl. to 8,000,000fl. (£800,000). His heir is his only son, a boy of 14. The boy, after finishing school, is to come for three years to England, to Barclay and Perkins's establishment, work there till the age of 21, and then assume the patrimony."
Lincolnshire Chronicle - Friday 15 January 1864, page 7.

When you think about it, it isn't so strange. Dreher's Schwechat brewery was the largest on the continent and Barclay Perkins had for a while been the largest brewery in the world. Though you might have expected the young Dreher to do his apprenticeship in a Lager brewery.

I wonder if Anton Dreher had set uit up remembering his own highly-significant rtip to Britain in the 1830's. The trip that gave birth to the first industrial bottom-fermenting styles styles: Munich and Vienna Lagers.

Dextrin and decoction

Busy, busy, busy. That's my life. Gallavanting around the world trying to sell my book. Sometimes it gets in the way of my other work.

I found these fascinating analyses of different mashing methods just before I left for San Diego. No time to write about them then. "I'll do it when I get back." I thought. That was before a random Truman document led me astray. I've only just remembered about the mashing stuff.

When I first looked seriously ay decoction mashing in my early blogging days, I was surprised to discover just how many different methods there were. One made a particular impression on me: the Satz (or Augsburg) method.

In it, the malt is mashed in with cold water and left to sit for four or five hours. The liquid which accumulated below the false bottom, called Satz, was drawn off. It contained various stuff from the malt but, most importantly, some of the enzymes.

It's one of the methods which crops up in the article in "Jahresbericht über die Leistungen der chemischen Technologie" which appeared in 1868. There are six mashing schemes considered in total. But, frustratingly, none of them are explained. I think I know what infusion is, but what about decoction or Bock? As I just mentioned, there are very many different types of decoction. Which one do they mean?

A couple of different tables appear in the article. First is the composition of the wort:

Worts
decoction Bock Satz method so-called English method with added starch infusion
sugar 4.85 7.10 4.37 5.00 5.31 5.26
dextrin 6.24 8.60 7.61 7.70 6.23 6.68
nitrogen-containing substance 0.79 1.35 - - 0.67 -
other contents 0.41 0.63 0.95 0.80 0.22 0.70
specific gravity 1050 1073 1052.7 1055.1 1051 1051.5
extract (directly measured) 11.87 17.05 11.98 12.70 12.30 11.94
extract according to Balling 12.29 17.68 12.93 13.50 12.52 12.64
Source:
Jahresbericht über die Leistungen der chemischen Technologie, 1868, page 543.

Next the composition of the beer after fermentation:

Beer after tub fermentation
decoction Bock Satz method so-called English method with added starch infusion
alcohol 2.81 3.38 2.94 2.96 3.03 3.13
sugar 1.58 2.32 1.46 1.68 1.59 1.33
dextrin 4.61 6.91 4.77 5.26 4.56 4.80
nitrogen-containing substance 0.38 0.74 - - 0.44 -
other contents 0.38 0.4 0.89 0.97 0.14 0.55
specific gravity 1022.8 1042 1028.6 1031.8 1027 1026.8
extract (directly measured) 6.57 9.98 6.23 6.93 6.59 6.13
extract according to Balling 6.95 10.38 7.12 7.90 6.73 6.68
Source:
Jahresbericht über die Leistungen der chemischen Technologie, 1868, page 544.


And finally one showing the relationship between the sugar and dextrin content in both the wort and finished beer.

for each unit of sugar
mashing method dextrin in the wort dextrin in the beer
with added starch 1.170 2.868
Bock 1.211 2.979
infusion 1.270 3.609
decoction 1.286 2.918
so-called English 1.540 3.137
Satz 1.740 3.267
Source:
Jahresbericht über die Leistungen der chemischen Technologie, 1868, page 544.

I have to admit that these don't show what I would have expected. I'd have bet that the infusion mash would produce the least dextrin. But that's not the case. It actually places about in the middle of the pack.

In the last table the Bock method comes quite low down because of the high density of the wort and the poor degree of attenuation. These both mean that there are relatively high levels of sugar both before and after fermentation.

It's fascinating, even though I'm not sure exactly what it's telling me.

Tuesday, 3 June 2014

Truman Brick Lane grists 1924 - 1940

Yes, I've not done spinning words from those few tables of numbers.

This time it's the stuff that provides the fermentable materials that we're looking at. Malt, sugar and adjuncts. I've had to fiddle with the number a bit because they were specified in quarters. And a sugar quarter is only 224 lbs, as opposed to the 336 lbs of a malt quarter. So I've adjusted the sugar and caramel figures to be 336 lb quarters.

One word of caution. We've already seen how there was a big shift from Porter/Stout to Ale in Truman's output over this period. That makes trends in ingredient usage harder to spot, because the ingredients for Ale and Stout differ. In 1910, the last year for which I have Brick Lane brewing records, neither of the two Ales, X and LK, contained either black malt or caramel. While all their Porters and Stouts did.

If we combine the caramel and black malt percentages, they start at 5.14% in 1924 and fall to 3.38% in 1940. That's a fall of around 50%. But production of Porter and Stout fell by more than 100% over the same period. My conclusion? Truman had started using caramel and black malt in some of their Ales.

I think I can understand why. You will, too, when we look at how Truman's beer range changed between 1910 and 1940. Which is what we'll be doing next time.

The most obvious long-term trend is the increase in the use of sugar, rising steadily up to a peak in 1934 then falling back again a little.

Malt usage is around 75% all the way through, except for the difficult year of 1933, where it dropped just below 75%. I was surprised to see the share of maize decline. That could be connected to which styles were being brewed as some contained maize and others didn't. At least that was the case back in 1910.

Here are the tables:

Truman Brick Lane grists 1924 - 1940 (qtrs of 336 lbs)
Year Malt Maize Sugar Caramel Black Total
1924 36,541 2,732 4,917 865 1,530 46,586
1925 40,789.5 3,323 6,222 1,150 1,426 52,910
1926 40,707.5 3,332 6,680 1,152 1,524 53,396
1927 41,395 2,748 7,319 1,164 1,042.5 53,668
1928 40,438.5 3,019 7,641 1,054 1,204 53,357
1929 38,145 3,263.5 7,415 962 1,035 50,820
1930 41,626 2,864.5 8,917 1,124 803 55,335
1931 39,365.5 2,994 8,780 1,110 628 52,878
1932 36,450.5 3,042 8,305 1,016 692 49,506
1933 26,719.5 2,589.5 7,307 851 821.5 38,288
1934 33,364 2,557 9,086 914 928 46,848
1935 36,248.33 2,264.17 8,980 854 851.5 49,198
1936 38,543 2,434.5 9,261 936 926 52,101
1937 38,508.5 2,465 9,310 861 1,097 52,242
1938 39,372 2,478.5 9,626 964 891.5 53,332
1939 39,061.33 2,521.33 9,545 714 1,084 52,926
1940 38,756 2,320 8,961 650 1,100 51,788
Source:
Document B/THB/C/256c held at the London Metropolitan Archives



Truman Brick Lane grists 1924 - 1940 (%)
Year Malt Maize Sugar Caramel Black Total
1924 78.44% 5.86% 10.56% 1.86% 3.28% 100.00%
1925 77.09% 6.28% 11.76% 2.17% 2.70% 100.00%
1926 76.24% 6.24% 12.51% 2.16% 2.85% 100.00%
1927 77.13% 5.12% 13.64% 2.17% 1.94% 100.00%
1928 75.79% 5.66% 14.32% 1.98% 2.26% 100.00%
1929 75.06% 6.42% 14.59% 1.89% 2.04% 100.00%
1930 75.23% 5.18% 16.12% 2.03% 1.45% 100.00%
1931 74.45% 5.66% 16.60% 2.10% 1.19% 100.00%
1932 73.63% 6.14% 16.78% 2.05% 1.40% 100.00%
1933 69.79% 6.76% 19.08% 2.22% 2.15% 100.00%
1934 71.22% 5.46% 19.39% 1.95% 1.98% 100.00%
1935 73.68% 4.60% 18.25% 1.74% 1.73% 100.00%
1936 73.98% 4.67% 17.78% 1.80% 1.78% 100.00%
1937 73.71% 4.72% 17.82% 1.65% 2.10% 100.00%
1938 73.82% 4.65% 18.05% 1.81% 1.67% 100.00%
1939 73.80% 4.76% 18.03% 1.35% 2.05% 100.00%
1940 74.84% 4.48% 17.30% 1.26% 2.12% 100.00%
Source:
Document B/THB/C/256c held at the London Metropolitan Archives

Next time we'll be looking at which beers Truman brewed in the interwar years.

Monday, 2 June 2014

15% off my Lulu books



Until the end of tomorrow (4th June) you can get 15% off my Lulu books if you enter this discount code:

CAESAR15

It's a great chance to pick up any of my books you don't already own.

Barclay Perkins Bookstore


Brewing in Australia

Just some random piece of shit from an old brewing magazine about Australia.

It's a slightly frustrating article because the most interesting part of the pamphlet it quotes from - a trip around teh Carlton Brewery - isn't included, just the rather bullshitty and flowery introduction. I've chopped the crap out to save you the trouble of reading it

"BREWING IN AUSTRALIA
WE have received from Mr. Edward Latham, the proprietor of the Carlton Brewery, Victoria, Australia, a nicely-written and neatly-printed little pamphlet of thirty-one pages, descriptive of a visit to his well-known establishment, and of the premises, plant, and machinery. All these appear from the account, which is apparently reprinted from a local newspaper, to be just what they should be—the best of their kind, and need no Further notice at our hands. There is a pleasant, gossipy introduction, which we may very well transfer to our columns :—

. . . . .

And when a Briton leaves his mother-country, and settles down in one or other of her numerous colonies, he still retains his innate affection for the beer of his youth. Take, for example, our Indian brethren. That they do not outgrow their hereditary love of the national beverage is testified by the twin facts, that a special class of ale is brewed to suit their parched palates, and that ‘India Pale Ale’ is annually imported into the three Presidencies in astonishing quantities. We all know the story of the young Indian officer, who, on hearing through his agents that a fortune of £10,000 had been left to him, and receiving a request as to what should be done with the money, replied, without hesitation, ‘Send for a cargo of bottled beer.’ It is be hoped, for sobriety's sake, that there are not many such hundred-thousand-bottle men to be found now-a-days, but there are very few Indian residents who entirely banish bottled ale from their tables. Even on board the steamers running between England and the East, the consumption of bottled beer assumes gigantic proportions, for we learn from a report dated October, 1865, that the number of bottles of beer used on board the Peninsular and Oriental Company's steamers alone, for the twelve months prior to the date quoted, was no less than six hundred and ninety thousand, three hundred and fifty-nine bottles! Coming nearer home, we notice in the manifests of newly-arrived vessels, hogsheads of draught, and cases and barrels of bottled beers, sufficient to accompany the most Gargantuan repasts—enough, one would think, to wash down all the fresh and preserved meats in Australia. But there are drawbacks to the general consumption of this beer, carefully prepared as it may be, and set apart, like the left-off clothes we read of but never see, ‘ for the colonies.’ It is not thoroughly suited to the requirements of our climate. It is too heavy, too somniferous in its effects for the heat of our summer days, not sufficiently refreshing to the taste, and rather too expensive for universal use. What is wanted to recoup the ‘waste of tissue,’ to appease the ‘drouth’ of sun-baked Australians, is a beer that shall be light, yet good, pleasant to the palate, but not unpleasant to the system, a beer, to use an hackneyed quotation, 'without a headache in a hogshead of it,’ or a suspicion of cocculus indicus, grains of paradise, or strychnine, in a year's brewing. To meet this want, several breweries have, at different times, been started in Victoria, and have met with various degrees of success.”

The ales of the Carlton Brewery, we learn, are in high repute in the Colony, where they have taken many prizes and prize certificates at the various exhibitions. The employes have enrolled themselves into a volunteer fire brigade, not only for the protection of their employer's property, but for that of their neighbours, and have on many occasions rendered valuable service in the suppression of outbreaks in the town. From a footnote we leam that there are already no less than 124 breweries in Victoria, turning out in 1871 more than thirteen millions of gallons of beer, equivalent to eighteen gallons per head of the population, including children, annually."
"Brewers' Guardian vol 3", 1873, pages 320 - 321.
 The quantites of IPA shipped to India weren'y really that astonishing. Compared to the total amount of beer brewed by Bass and Allsopp the quantity taht went to India was really rather negligible. In 1872 167,597* barrels of beer were imported into in India. Less than half of that would have been IPA, say 70,000 barrels at the absolute maximum. Between them Bass and Allsopp brewed well over 1 million barrels.

Could that story of the officer spending £10,000 on beer possibly be true? I'd like to believe it was. But my head tells me there's some embellishment or fantasy at play. If £10,000 really did get you 100,000 bottles, that makes IPA 2 shillings a pop. Which seems pretty expensive, even considering it's in India. British adverts tell me that an Imperial pint of Bass IPA was just 4.75d - about a fifth of 2 shillings. Even if the Indian bottle was quart, that's still a big preice difference.

Mr. Latham seems to be describing Lager: "a beer that shall be light, yet good, pleasant to the palate, but not unpleasant to the system". His brewery would later become very big in the Lager trade. It still is, with delightful beers such as Victoria Bitter.

One of the reasons I've shared this is that I used to walk past the site of the Carlton Brewery every day on my way into work when I live in Melbourne in the early 1990's. God, that seems like several lifetimes ago.

124 is far more breweries than there currently are in Victoria, that's for sure. 13 million gallons is 361,111 barrels. Or about as much as one of the large London breweries. It's a average of just a little less than 3,000 barrels per brewery. Most must have been pretty small.





* Brewers' Guardian, Volume 3, 1873, page 14.

Sunday, 1 June 2014

Truman Brick Lane hop usage 1924 - 1940

I'm back with that Truman costings document from between the wars. And one of the other items it has detailed information on: hop usage.

Again, a few seemingly dull numbers tell us a stack. First Truman's hopping rates. There wasn't a huge change in average gravity over this period, so we can take the figures at face value. Between 1924 and 1940 the average hopping rate almost halved, save for a little blip in 1931 and 1932. but I think I can explain that. The blip, I mean.

1932 was a funny year for British brewing. A shit one, really. Beer production plummeted after the big tax rise in Snowden's 1931 emergency Budget. Which probably partially explains why hops were so cheap in 1932. In 1934, after the tax increase had been reversed and beer production started to rise again, the hop price goes up again.

Here are some details on UK hop production. Usually you would expect the poor harvests in 1931 and 1932 to have forced up prices. But because beer production fell - and hence hop usage, too - prices didn't go crazy.


Hops: home production and imports
Year ended 31st Dec. Acreage Estimated Produce Imports: Less Re-Exports Consumption Years ended 30th Sept. following
Cwts. Cwts. Cwts.
1929 23,986 359,100 62,208 307,289
1930 19,997 253,000 44,199 277,406
1931 19,628 169,000 50,303 219,587
1932 16,531 188,000 14,952 222,868
1933 16,895 210,000 44,829 233,419
1934 18,037 259,000 30,046 248,744
1935 18,251 248,300 35,186 258,300
1936 18,317 252,000 31,953 270,692
1937 18,093 235,000 40,406 277,846
1938 18,460 257,000 45,287 286,716
1939 18,812 288,000 7,840 265,512
1940 18,592 270,500 14,675 251,354
Source:
Brewers' Almanack 1955, page 63.


Usage of foreign hops also tells a story. Though the figures are confused by the inclusion of other European hops in the British numbers for most years. What we're really seeing is European vs American hops.

Pre-WW I massive amounts of hops were imported from the US. And in the immediate post-war years, with the hop industry in Europe still suffering from the war, large quantities were again imported from the US. Through the 1920's, these hops were around a third of those used at Truman. But once the UK industry became just about self-sufficient, Truman dropped foreign hops.

Truman Brick Lane hop usage 1924 - 1940
UK hops Foreign hops total hops
year cwt % cwt % cwt Average price (cwt) oz per barrel brewed
1924 1818 61.85% 1121.25 38.15% 2939.25 £13.43 19.8
1925 2131.5 67.33% 1034.25 32.67% 3165.75 £13.76 18.6
1926 2222.5 72.41% 846.75 27.59% 3069.25 £11.05 17.77
1927 2078 67.94% 980.75 32.06% 3058.75 £11.68 17.7
1928 1939.25 68.06% 910.25 31.94% 2849.5 £11.55 16.08
1929 1951.25 69.60% 852.25 30.40% 2803.5 £13.06 16.44
1930 2155 74.99% 718.75 25.01% 2873.75 £11.03 15.35
1931 2547 90.58% 265 9.42% 2812 £6.02 15.62
1932 2886.25 100.00% 0.00% 2886.25 £5.76 15.68
1933 2246.5 100.00% 0.00% 2246.5 £7.50 14.17
1934 2582 98.62% 36.25 1.38% 2618.25 £10.35 14.34
1935 2164.25 90.10% 237.75 9.90% 2402 £15.14 13.07
1936 2271.75 81.85% 503.75 18.15% 2775.5 £11.49 13.69
1937 2718.75 100.00% 0.00% 2718.75 £10.98 13.32
1938 2713.25 99.97% 0.75 0.03% 2714 £10.79 12.77
1939 2652.5 100.00% 0.00% 2652.5 £10.52 12.52
1940 2455.25 99.41% 14.5 0.59% 2469.75 £10.40 11.71
Source:
Document B/THB/C/256c held at the London Metropolitan Archives

I'm saving the best stuff from this document for later. Stay tuned.