Saturday, 3 October 2009


Am I still on day one? Telling the tale is taking longer than living the life.

From Ettal it's just a couple of minutes drive to Oberammergau. Not that I remember any of it. Doubtless it was the usual misty peaks and gloomy forests. If you've seen the pictures in the previous two posts, you'll have some idea. No need to strain my powers of imagination for you.

We stopped in exactly my sort of place: a pub. Called Zum Stern. A typical country inn, with a slightly kitsch restaurant and comfortable rooms. Well mine was comfortable, which is all that really matters. Not that I did much in it other than sleep. I don't like to waste my Germany time sitting indoors.

I was soon in the mood for another beer and went for a wander through town. It bears the scars of mass tourism. The normal shops struggle to find room amongst the touters of tat. In particular religious tat. Crucifixes, saint statues, that sort of thing. Which is a bit of a contrast with the sex and dope souvenirs that fill central Amsterdam. Thankfully there are a few pubs, too.

Whilst driving around I'd noticed that pretty much every town and village had a boozer called Zum Post or Zum Alten Post. Oberammergau was no exception. It seemed like a good place to start.

The setting was delightful. The mountains a stunning backdrop to the painted houses of the town. I sat at a table outside and waited. Then waited a bit more. A few spots of rain fell. I hadn't bothered bringing my coat. Some more waiting followed, with an occasional raindrop. After 10 minutes, a waitress finally drifted by and took my order. Another Ettaler Dunkles seemed a good idea. It wasn't as good as a t the brewery tap. A definite touch of diacetyl. Too much.

We're going to dip back down into darkness now. I don't even have photos to shine a light into the obscurity of memory of the rest of the day. I know I went back to Zum Stern and ate my tea. No idea what it was. Something meaty and German, no doubt. Washed down with Hasen-bräu. Probably their Dunkles. (Hang on. I've just checked and they don't seem to brew a Dunkles. It must have been something else I drank.) I'd never had any beers from Hasen-bräu before. It's a shame I have absolutely no recollection - nor notes - of how it tasted.

By this time I was starting to flag. It was evening 8 pm and I'd been up since 5 am. And drinking most of the time inbetween. Just as well I'd abstained on the flight, otherwise I might have been in trouble. That's my excuse for just having a single beer in Zum Stern. But however tired I was, I didn't intend missing Oberammergau's only brewery, Maxbräu. Andy and I headed down there after eating.

It wasn't far. Just a couple of hundred metres. Located in a posh hotel, Maxbräu is sadly typical of modern German brewpubs. Quite flash, with impressive shiny copper kettles, but more emphasis on the food than the beer. Schickimicki is how Andy described it. He was right. We both had Helles. Typically (again) it was too cloudy and too green. That I can remember. We only stayed for the one.

And that's it. Finally at the end of day. Doubtless it's tried your patience as much the day itself tested my liver. Next, it's on to Munich for some real boozing. And my longest ever wait for a beer.

Gasthaus Zum Stern
Dorfstr. 33,
82487 Oberammergau.
Tel.: (+49) (0)8822 - 867
Fax: (+49) (0)8822 -7027

Hotel Alte Post
Dorftstraße 19,
82487 Oberammergau.
Tel.: 0 88 22 / 91 0-0
FAX: 0 88 22 / 91 0- 100

Unterer Talweg 87.
86179 Augsburg
Telefon: (0821) 3299 - 0

Ammergauer Maxbräu
Ettaler Straße 5,
82487 Oberammergau.
Tel.: +49 08822- 948740

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