19th-century grists can be a great disappointment to those hoping to find exciting recipes. Porter and Stout aside, most beers had very simple grists with nothing other than base malt. It's not what I'd expected to find. But, after looking at the odd few thousand brewing records, it's clear that this is just how they brewed back then.
Over-complication is a modern failing. How many current beers have recipes that are more complicated than they need to be? My guess is quite a lot. I don't want to bore you with this, but one of my favourite beers of all time, Pretty Things XXXX Mild*, has just four ingredients. That's including water and yeast.
The London X Ales definitely have the edge in terms of grist complexity. Only Barclay Perkins ones were 100% pale malt. That these beers were pale in colour is attested by the use of white malt in some. That was the palest kind of pale malt.
The Courage grists really are unusual. I'd forgotten that they included brown malt. The percentage is pretty small so I wonder what the point was. It would have added a little colour, but also flavour. I wonder which was the prime reason for its use?
The limited amount of sugar used is also worth highlighting. Sugar had been a legal ingredient since 1847, but it wasn't immediately hugely popular. Whitbread was the first of the big London brewers to adopt it in a big way, coincidentally about exactly at this time. This is when these brewers began using sugar regularly:
Whitbread 1865
Truman 1876
Barclay Perkins 1880
When we finally get to the next instalment in this series, you'll see just how much Barclay Perkins grists were transformed by the Free Mash Tun Act.
What can I say about the provincial grists? Very little as they are, with a single exception, 100% base malt. The only exception is the Medway X Ale with its small amount of crystal malt. This is a very early sighting of crystal malt. But that's another topic we'll be learning more about later.
Almost forgot my other point: the differing gravities. You can see that London X Ale was over 1060º, the provincial ones around 1050º. There's a similar gravity gap all the way up the strength scale
That's me done. I'll leave you with the tables.
London X Ale grists in the 1860's | |||||||||||||
Date | Year | Brewer | Beer | OG | FG | ABV | App. Atten-uation | lbs hops/ qtr | hops lb/brl | pale malt | brown malt | white malt | sugar |
14th May | 1867 | Barclay Perkins | X | 1061.2 | 1018.6 | 5.64 | 69.68% | 9.85 | 2.77 | 100.00% | |||
2nd Oct | 1868 | Barclay Perkins | XX | 1078.9 | 1024.7 | 7.18 | 68.77% | 12.89 | 4.47 | 100.00% | |||
2nd Oct | 1868 | Barclay Perkins | XXX | 1092.8 | 1030.2 | 8.28 | 67.46% | 14.21 | 5.90 | 100.00% | |||
8th Jul | 1867 | Whitbread | X | 1061.2 | 1020.2 | 5.42 | 66.97% | 10.12 | 2.95 | 86.07% | 13.93% | ||
16th May | 1867 | Whitbread | XL | 1071.2 | 1026.0 | 5.97 | 63.42% | 9.01 | 3.05 | 85.25% | 14.75% | ||
3rd Jun | 1867 | Whitbread | XX | 1082.3 | 1031.3 | 6.74 | 61.95% | 9.09 | 3.21 | 85.96% | 14.04% | ||
3rd Jul | 1865 | Truman | X Ale | 1067.3 | 1013.9 | 7.07 | 79.42% | 9 | 2.78 | 64.71% | 35.29% | ||
4th Jul | 1865 | Truman | 40/- Ale | 1072.6 | 1020.8 | 6.85 | 71.37% | 9 | 3.00 | 100.00% | |||
22nd Aug | 1865 | Truman | XX Ale | 1081.2 | 1020.5 | 8.03 | 74.74% | 11.0 | 7.17 | 100.00% | |||
22nd Aug | 1865 | Truman | XXX Ale | 1088.9 | 1022.7 | 8.76 | 74.45% | 11.0 | 10.15 | 100.00% | |||
23rd July | 1867 | Courage | Ale X | 1065.9 | 10.00 | 3.10 | 97.82% | 2.18% | |||||
30th July | 1867 | Courage | Ale XX | 1078.9 | 10.00 | 3.71 | 91.90% | 3.05% | 5.05% | ||||
Sources: | |||||||||||||
Whitbread brewing records held at the London Metropolitan Archives document numbers LMA/4453/D/01/032 and LMA/4453/D/01/033. | |||||||||||||
Barclay Perkins brewing records held at the London Metropolitan Archives document numbers ACC/2305/1/572 and ACC/2305/08/275. | |||||||||||||
Truman brewing record held at the London Metropolitan Archives document number B/THB/C/147. | |||||||||||||
Courage brewing record held at the London Metropolitan Archives document number ACC/2305/08/275. |
Provincial X Ale grists in the 1860's | ||||||||||||
Date | Year | Brewer | Beer | OG | FG | ABV | App. Atten-uation | lbs hops/ qtr | hops lb/brl | pale malt | crystal malt | white malt |
1st Oct | 1868 | Tetley | X | 1047.4 | 1020.8 | 3.52 | 56.14% | 6.00 | 1.11 | 100.00% | ||
2nd Oct | 1868 | Tetley | X1 | 1055.4 | 1019.4 | 4.76 | 65.00% | 6.00 | 1.30 | 100.00% | ||
5th Oct | 1868 | Tetley | X2 | 1062.0 | 1017.7 | 5.86 | 71.43% | 8.00 | 2.00 | 100.00% | ||
19th Oct | 1868 | Tetley | X3 | 1066.5 | 1022.2 | 5.86 | 66.67% | 9.96 | 3.93 | 100.00% | ||
17th Oct | 1868 | William Younger | X | 1053 | 1023 | 3.97 | 56.60% | 6.30 | 1.36 | 100.00% | ||
24th Aug | 1868 | William Younger | XX | 1057 | 1024 | 4.37 | 57.89% | 9.58 | 2.25 | 100.00% | ||
26th Aug | 1868 | William Younger | XXX | 1068 | 1028 | 5.29 | 58.82% | 8.00 | 2.55 | 100.00% | ||
18th Jun | 1869 | Medway | X | 1051.5 | 8.00 | 1.75 | 96.88% | 3.13% | ||||
2nd Jun | 1869 | Medway | XX | 1066.8 | 9.00 | 2.63 | 100.00% | |||||
1864 | Lovibond | X Ale | 1050.4 | 1015.5 | 4.62 | 69.23% | 10.50 | 3.15 | 100.00% | |||
1864 | Lovibond | XX Ale | 1065.6 | 1015.0 | 6.70 | 77.20% | 2.73 | 0.81 | 100.00% | |||
1864 | Lovibond | XXX Ale | 1074.2 | 1016.6 | 7.62 | 77.61% | 6.50 | 1.04 | 100.00% | |||
1864 | Lovibond | XXXX Ale | 1085.3 | 1019.9 | 8.65 | 76.62% | 10.50 | 2.01 | 100.00% | |||
Sources: | ||||||||||||
Tetley brewing record held at the West Yorkshire Archive Service, Leeds document number WYL756/16/ACC1903 | ||||||||||||
William Younger brewing record held at the Scottish Brewing Archive document number WY/6/1/2/21 | ||||||||||||
Medway brewing record owned by me | ||||||||||||
Lovibond brewing record owned by me |
* Dann has promised he'll be brewing it again soon. I can't wait to get my hands on some more of it.
9 comments:
Looks like the Provincial X Ales had a lower hoppping rate too, especially with the higher gravity beers
On the other hand, IIRC, the retail prices for London X ale and provincial X ale were similar if not identical, suggesting that in London the brewers (1) competed on strength rather than price and (2) had sufficient economies of scale to enable them to offer a stronger brew for the lower price.
Martyn, that's what I've read in other sources: the big London brewers were able to sell stronger beer at the same price as their smaller and provincial competitors.
Would I be in the right ballpark for saying that using lager malt rather than something like Maris Otter would be the modern equivalent of 'white malt'?
Velky Al, possibly. Or maybe just the palest modern pale malt.
"Over-complication is a modern failing"...thank you Ron Pattinson !
Would I be in the right ballpark for saying that using lager malt rather than something like Maris Otter would be the modern equivalent of 'white malt'?
I know Durden Park had opted with a 50:50 lager, pale malt ratio
Back in the comments here in 2009 there was a discussion of white malt with reference to malting writers and others (e.g. Michael Combrune) who used the term. Originally it seems to have meant a very lightly kilned pale malt, almost a semi-raw barley and one that needed to be used quickly to avoid going acid. I doubt modern lager malt if of this character, but on the other hand, in these current recipes being discussed, a very pale malt might work if highly modified since again the meaning of the term varied in the 1800's. Sometimes it seems to have meant a very pale malt, the whitest obtainable. Sometimes it seems to have meant regular pale malt that went slack in storage (became too wet from moisture and lost hue for this reason, bleached in effect by weather). So it is hard to know what this white malt really was.
Gary
This description of North American 2-row barley malt:
http://www.byo.com/stories/techniques/article/indices/9-all-grain-brewing/174-base-malt-basics-homebrew-science
suggests this may be ideal to use as a modern white malt. The only thing I'm wondering about is the fairly high protein level, but perhaps Victorian white malt (not the improperly stored kind) was of this character since prolonged modification seems uncharacteristic of very pale malts, i.e., white malt probably retained more starch and protein than more modified malts which latter are generally somewhat darker. At least, that is my understanding.
Gary
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