Flying North?

There's no rush today. We don't need to leave until midday. I get up around 8:30. Feeling a little on the rough side. A bit too much fun yesterday. And gin, I fear.

Sandy, Paddy and Sue are already eating when I get downstairs. I eat some scrambled egg and drink some tea. Then Chris arrives. Still looking tired.

A breakfast of cheese, toast and tea.

After breakfast I go back up to my room to type up the last two days. Not so much of a view today, as it's cloudy. Then it starts to rain.

When I've got everything typed up, I quickly run through my emails. I notice one from Sky and open it up to see if it's a check in reminder for tomorrow.

I don't really understand what it says. But I notice the time of the flight is different. Looking a little more closely, I notice the date is different, too. It's for Tuesday. And my flight back to Amsterdam is on Monday. Fuck.

I take my laptop downstairs and show it to Chris. It seems the bastards have changed my flight on me. Fuck, fuck, fuck.

"Come into the airport with me and I'll speak to the Sky people." Chris suggests.

The rain is falling heavily as we snake our way down the valley. Spoiling the view of the mountains. The fields are sodden, dotted with melancholy sheep and cattle. Clouds obscure the volcanoes.

When we pull up at the airport, Camilo is just dropping off Markus, who's on the same flight as Chris. Markus checks in as Chris talks to one of the Sky agents for me.

It seems my flight tomorrow has been cancelled. That's why I was rebooked. Chris suggests that I get my flight changed to be the same as his.

"That's fine. I just want to make sure I get to Santiago in time for my Amsterdam flight. Booking a hotel in Santiago shouldn't be a problem."

After ten minutes or so of messing around, the agent rebooks me and checks me in. That's a relief. I have a boarding pass. I will make it to Santiago in time.

As we sit drinking a coffee airside, Chris phones the hotel I'm booked into tomorrow to see if they have a room for me tonight. Luckily, they do.

A rainy runway from the window of my plane.

Bags retrieved in Santiago, we jump into an Uber and head into town. Markus is staying quite close to me. We arrange to meet a little later at the Independent Republic of Pisco. Which, as it turns out, is just 50 metres from my hotel. Now there’s handy.

It's much warmer than in Temuco. Over 20 degrees. And sunny. It's quite a contrast. People are wearing shorts. The trees are putting on their summer clothes, too. Plenty of sprunging here.

After dumping my bags, I head on down to the Independent Republic of Pisco. Markus is already sitting outside with a pisco sour. Soon I have one, too. I’m sociable that way.

Two pisco sours with stars on the top.

After a couple of pisco sours, we order food. A beef sandwich for me. Ceviche for Markus.

“What did you think of the organisation in Temuco?” Markus asks.

“A bit chaotic. But not too bad. I try to keep my expectations low. It makes things far less annoying.”

“That’s probably a good idea.”

We spend a few happy hours drinking pisco sours and chatting. We call it a day a little after eleven.

Back in my hotel, I watch Match of the Day. Well, other than the Arsenal game, as I know they won. The cheating bastards. I turn in around 1:00.

The last of the Tomatin propels me towards slumber town.



Chipe Libre - Républica Independiente del Pisco
José Victorino Lastarria 282,
8320165 Santiago,
Región Metropolitana.
https://www.chipe-libre.cl/
 

Disclaimer: The First International Araucania Cervercera Congress paid for my flights and for my hotel in Temuco, along with food and drink.

 

Let's Brew - 1910 Barclay Perkins RD Porter

I’ll be honest wit you: I’ve no idea what the name of this beer was. In the brewing book it’s simply RDP. I’m guessing that the P stood for Porter. I’ve no idea what the other two letters mean.

That’s assuming the P is for Porter. Because, in terms of gravity and recipe, it looks more like a Stout. It’s considerably stronger than Oatmeal Stout and almost as strong as Brown Stout.

At 35%, the percentage of coloured malt is very high. Hence the pretty black colour. Around half of the base malt was SA malt, for which I’ve substituted mild malt.

It’s interesting that in this period that Barclay Perkins used all English hops in their Black Beers. In this case, there were three types: Sussex from the 1907 and 1908 seasons and Mid-Kent from 1909. The last having been cold stored.

1910 Barclay Perkins RD Porter
pale malt	3.50 lb	24.56%
mild malt	3.50 lb	24.56%
brown malt	1.25 lb	8.77%
black malt	1.00 lb	7.02%
amber malt	1.50 lb	10.53%
crystal malt 60 L	1.00 lb	7.02%
No. 3 invert sugar	2.50 lb	17.54%
Fuggles 150 mins	1.75 oz
Fuggles 60 mins	1.75 oz
Goldings 30 mins	1.75 oz
OG	1068
FG	1023
ABV	5.95
Apparent attenuation	66.18%
IBU	59
SRM	41
Mash at	148º F
Sparge at	168º F
Boil time	150 minutes
pitching temp	61º F
Yeast	Wyeast 1099 Whitbread Ale

 

 

Beer Guide to the 1970s (part thirteen)

Here we go again. Another three breweries from the 1970s. Two closed, one open in this trio.

Kicking off with everyone's favourite, Greene King. Who already weren't that popular. Probably because they owned most of thee pubs in some parts of Suffolk. And just because they were big. Though, considering how many pubs they owned, their beers weren't that widely available.

Compared to Guernsey, Greene King's beers were ubiquitous. I think you could only get their beers in the Channel Islands. I can't remember even seeing their beers at festivals.

Greene King (Biggleswade)
Biggleswade,
Bedfordshire.
Founded:    1764
Closed:            1997
Tied houses:    287

The Wells & Winch brewery, which was acquired by Greene King in 1961. Who ran it as a subsidiary for several decades. I think that I tried the two Milds at festivals and found them OK. I’m guessing that the XX was KK with caramel added at racking time.

beer	style	format	OG	description
IPA	IPA	draught	1036	good hop rate
Abbot Ale	Pale Ale	draught	1048	strong robust Bitter
KK Light Mild	Mild	draught	1030.8	a Light Mild
XX Mild	Mild	draught	1030.8	a Dark Mild, fruity

Greene King (Bury St. Edmunds)
Bury St. Edmunds,
Suffolk,
Founded:    1799
Closed:            still open
Tied houses:    900

One of the largest regional brewers, Greene King weren’t exactly CAMRA’s favourite. The large tied estate was mostly in East Anglia, though it stretched as far south as the outskirts of North London. Not areas where I drank and I only tried the beers at festivals. They’ve left no impression so can’t have been either great or terrible.

beer	style	format	OG	description
IPA	IPA	draught	1036	good hop rate
IA Light Bitter	Pale Ale	draught		a lighter Bitter
Mild	Mild	draught	1030.8	a Dark Mild
Abbot Ale	Pale Ale	draught	1048	strong robust Bitter
King Keg	Pale Ale	keg	1038.4
Polar	Pale Ale	keg		A light coloured, chilled beer for the summer
Pale Ale	Pale Ale	bottled	1031.7
Crown Ale	Pale Ale	bottled		A medium gravity, mellow Pale Ale
Abbot Ale	Pale Ale	bottled	1048.4	A strong Pale Ale
St. Edmund's Ale	Pale Ale	bottled		strongest of the Pale Ales
Harvest Ale	Brown Ale	bottled	1032.7	A sweet, dark beer
Burton Ale	Brown Ale	bottled		A dark Ale, but less sweet
Suffolk Ale	Old Ale	bottled		A strong, dark and well flavoured beer
Farm Stout	Stout	bottled	1035	Sweet Stout
Audit Ale	Barley Wine	bottled

Guernsey
St. Peter Port,
Guernsey.
Founded:    1856
Closed:            2002
Tied houses:    45

One of the small breweries on the Channel Islands. The tied houses were all on Guernsey, though there was some free trade on Alderney, Sark and Herm. I don’t think their beers ever made it to the mainland. Ended up in the hands of Jersey’s Ann Street Brewery and closed.

beer	style	format	OG	description
Draught Bitter	Pale Ale	draught	1045	full flavoured and hoppy
Mild	Mild	draught	1036.6	a medium Dark Mild which is dry hopped
Pony Keg Bitter	Pale Ale	keg		A well hopped, high gravity keg beer
Pony IPA	IPA	bottled		similar to Keg Bitter
Pony Ale	Brown Ale	bottled	1036.6	the Mild Ale in bottle
Pont Brown Ale	Brown Ale	bottled		Not too sweet, full-bodied and fairly heavily primed
Milk Stout	Stout	bottled		medium sweet

 

Conferencing again

I rise at 7:30. But the fist talk is supposed to start at 8:30. I have a very rushed breakfast. Yet again. It’s been a recurring theme in Temuco. There’s not even time for a photo.

We're in a different room. A much better one. Which is reasonably warm, if the door is kept closed. That’s not always the case, unfortunately. I’m a bit disappointed that I won’t be speaking in amongst the locomotives. Though, ultimately, I’d prefer not to freeze my arse off.

Asbjorn talking at the conference

Asbjorn is on first. Talking about quality control. Then it's Marcus on the topic of Rauchbier. His presentation has quite a bit of video and is very visual. Which is a good idea when so many of the audience don’t speak English.

Pete leaves at the end of the talk. And we hurry outside for a group photo. Chris has to drag Pete back.

Photos snapped, it’s time for Paddy on brewing cask beer. Interesting stuff. Especially the stuff about serving from a vertical cask. I’d heard about it but didn’t know exactly how it worked.

And, finally, it's me. It's 13:30 when I start and I manage to rush through it in an hour. I speak so quickly the interpreter says she had trouble keeping up with me.

The audience looks rather bemused. How much did they understand? I fear that it’s a long way short of 100%. Oh well. I hope they got something from it.

All the judges are supposed to be going up to Lonquimay. But Markus isn't keen. Leaving just Paddy, Sue, Sandy, Chris and me. To make sure to get there nice and early, we leave straight away, not even bothering with lunch. We really don’t want to be travelling in the dark again. Far too scary.

I finally travel up the mountain both awake and in daylight. I can soak in the countryside all the way to Lonquimay. It's weird seeing monkey-puzzle trees growing wild. Some quite massive. With candidly white volcano cones as a backdrop. That’s a bonus of it being a clear day.

Lonquimay and the mountains

Something I almost forgot to mention. I arrived at the arse end of Chille’s national celebrations. Which take up the best part of a week. There are Chilean flags everywhere. Children even fly kite versions. Every house, even the crappiest wooden shack, has a flag flying outside at this time of year.  

We arrive at 16:30. Well before nightfall. And are greeted by a smiling Boris. Who has already started barbecuing the beef. Me, Chris and Paddy go outside to have a look. It's dead impressive.

Beef barbbecuing

Back inside, I get a Zipa. It’s far better on draught than the bottled version I judged a few days ago. Confirming what I suspected: it’s packaging not brewing that’s the problem in Chile.

After a couple of beers, it's time to eat. The table is already groaning under the wight of food before the barbecue comes out.

Boris's homemade sausages

First pork sausages. Made by Boris. They are delicious. Then it's time for the beef. Which is also really good. I’m stuffed by the time I’m finished.

Boris and his beef

“I’m glad we skipped lunch now. “ Sue remarks. She’s not wrong. A meal deserving of an appetite.

Finally, my favourite hour rolls around: gin time. We start with cocktails the restaurant manageress has made using their own tonic water (Perkins brand). Then we get to make our own, with different types of tonic water and botanicals. Mine is mostly gin, with a splash of tonic, hibiscus, juniper berries and cardamon.

“No surprise Ron’s is mostly gin.”

What do they mean? It's quite nice. If rather alcoholic. A bit like me.

Paddy and gin

Boris's girlfriend arrives. And we drink more gin. This is lots of fun, playing around with different combinations of tonics and botanicals. Hibiscus is my favourite.

The others gradually drift off to bed, leaving just me and Chris. We stay up later. Until midnight or so, when we crawl upstairs to bed.

Where did all that gin go?



Cervecería & Lodge Lonquimay
Lonquimay,
Araucania.
http://www.cervezalonquimay.cl/ 

Disclaimer: The First International Araucania Cervercera Congress paid for my flights and for my hotel in Temuco, along with food and drink.

Let's Brew Wednesday - 1910 Barclay Perkins Brown Stout

Another Barclay Perkins recipe from my book "Free!", due to be published sometime this Millennium. I've been chipping away at the recipes in my spare time for a year or two. This is number 217.

The main Stout of Barclay Perkins, sold both in bottle and on draught remains Brown Stout. A beer they had been brewing for over 100 years. Probably closer to 200 years.

Decent quantities of Brown Stout were being brewed, though this is a relatively small batch, having been brewed on their small and experimental plant. Which is why 84 barrels were brewed. Batches in the main brew house were much larger.

It’s another complicated grist, with no fewer than six malts. Once again, the base is split between pale and SA malt (for which I’ve substituted mild malt). Then there’s the usual brown, black and amber malt. The twist here is that there’s also some crystal malt. A small amount which surely must have been swamped by all the roast malt.

Three types of English hops: Sussex from the 1907 and 1908 seasons and Mid-Kent from 1909. 

1910 Barclay Perkins Brown Stout
pale malt	3.50 lb	22.58%
mild malt	3.50 lb	22.58%
brown malt	1.50 lb	9.68%
black malt	1.25 lb	8.06%
amber malt	1.75 lb	11.29%
crystal malt 60 L	1.25 lb	8.06%
No. 3 invert sugar	2.75 lb	17.74%
Fuggles 150 mins	2.00 oz
Fuggles 60 mins	2.00 oz
Goldings 30 mins	2.00 oz
OG	1074
FG	1025
ABV	6.48
Apparent attenuation	66.22%
IBU	65
SRM	47
Mash at	148º F
Sparge at	168º F
Boil time	150 minutes
pitching temp	61.5º F
Yeast	Wyeast 1099 Whitbread Ale

Me ranting about Scottish beer

If you'd like to hear (and see)) me sweeping away the most egregious myths about Scottish beer, tune into the Beer Culture Summit this Friday (18th October) at 18:00. It should be loads of fun. 

The talk summarises my excellent book on Scottish brewing:

Which is also available in Kindle form:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q8XHBL2

Beer Guide to the 1970s (part twelve)

Today's trio are a right mixture. One that just eluded me, one I disliked and one I loved. See if you can guess which was which. (It won't be hard.)

So many breweries that have disappeared since I started drinking. Some of the most frustrating were those that closed just before that. So I just missed out.

Gray
Chelmsford,
Essex.
Founded:    1828
Closed:            1974
Tied houses:    52

A brewery that disappeared just too early for me to have had chance to try their beers. The company still exists and owns a tired estate, whose beers are now supplied by Greene King. Their pubs are mostly concentrated around Chelmsford.

beer	style	format	OG	description
Bitter	Pale Ale	draught	1033.6	well-balanced
Best Bitter	Pale Ale	draught	1040.4
Mild	Mild	draught	1028.6	dark
Stock Ale	Strong Ale	draught		fairly strong, darkish, roughly a cross between the Bitter and the Mild
Light Ale	Pale Ale	bottled
Brown Ale	Brown Ale	bottled
Home Brew	Strong Ale	bottled		bottled Stock Ale

Greenall Whitley (Warrington)
Warrington,
Cheshire.
Founded:    1762
Closed:            1993
Tied houses:    1,500

One of the largest independent brewers, Greenall Whitley wasn’t that far behind Scottish & Newcastle in terms of tied houses. Lancashire, Cheshire, Shropshire, Staffordshire, Derbyshire, Herefordshire and North Wales were lucky enough to be home to their tied pubs. I never cared for their beers, even though they were often available in cask form. It was also annoying the good brewers the bastards took over and closed. The Warrington brewery closed when Greenalls decided to get out of brewing and become a pub chain. Not a brewery I miss.

beer	style	format	OG	description
Best Bitter	Pale Ale	draught	1038	well-balanced
Mild	Mild	draught	1033.7	full-bodied Dark Mild
Festival Keg	Pale Ale	keg	1036.8
Grunhalle Lager	Lager	keg	1037.3	high-gravity Lager
Champion Ale	Pale Ale	bottled	1034.8
Festival Export Ale	Pale Ale	bottled	1041.6	A strong Light Ale, not the same as the keg.
Five Star Strong Ale	Barley Wine	bottled		nip
Old Chester Ale	Old Ale	bottled		A dark and sweet strong Old Ale.
Bullseye	Brown Ale	bottled	1033.6	A medium sweet Brown Ale
Family Ale	Brown Ale	bottled		sweet Brown Ale
Red Rose Stout	Stout	bottled	1040	sweet
Grunhall Lager	Lager	bottled	1037.3

Greenall Whitley (Wem)
Wem,
Shropshire.
Founded:    1878
Closed:            1988
Tied houses:    220

In contrast to their owner, the Wem brewery produced excellent beers. Some of the best I drank back then. Though that was only at beer festivals. They were bought by Greenall Whitley in 1951 and survived for surprisingly long. A brewery I do miss.

beer	style	format	OG	description
Best Bitter	Pale Ale	draught	1038	well-balanced
Pale Ale	Pale Ale	draught	1032	a light Bitter
Mild	Mild	draught	1033	full-bodied Dark Mild

 

 

Conferencing

First day of the conference. It's supposed to kick off at 8:45. I'm up at 7:30. But by the time I've done all my pottering around. It's 8:20.

I only have time for a slice of toast with cheese and a quick cup of tea before we're herded into the van.

[Imagine a photograph of a very sad breakfast.]

It's misty and freezing cold. It turns out the conference will be in the national railway museum. Which is in an old roundhouse.

A vintage train looming out of the mist

We’re dropped at the front gates. Which are quite a way from the roundhouse. I feel really sorry for Sandy, who’s not verry mobile after a fall just a day before travelling to Chile. She accepts the long walk very stoically.  Much more so than I would. Wimp that I am.

The talks were supposed to be in the roundhouse itself, next to the locomotives. But it's too cold. We're moved to a smaller room. Almost no-one is there when we arrive. It's more like 9:45 when things kick off. Who could have predicted that?

There's no possibility of having a translation through headphones. Instead, the interpreter just sits behind us. Luis gives a speech first. Followed by a regional government official. Then it's Asbjorn's turn. Finally this morning, it’s the turn of Pete Slosberg.

Pete has to speak a sentence at a time which is then translated by the interpreter. It slows things down a lot. If it's like that for me, my talk will take over two hours. Given the circumstances, Pete’s talk is exceptional. Including an impromptu section on the need for cooperation between small brewers.

In the lunch break, Camilo takes me, Pete and Marcus to the covered market. Which is pretty massive. Outside the halls proper, there’s an informal market at the side of the road. That’s very Chilean.

Food stalls in Temuco market.

We walk around for a while. It’s mostly fruit and veg. With some sections dedicated to cheese or sausage. And spice stalls, which is where we’re headed.

To get down to the business in hand: buying merken. That’s the roasted chili powder locals add to everything. Pete gets ten different ones. I just get four. That’s a present for Dolores sorted. And just two euros for the lot.

Buying merken in Temuco market.

Camilo says he knows a good place to eat, Zuny Tradiciones Where they have Mapuche-inspired food. Camilo gets the route slightly wrong and we bump along a dirt track running past wooden shacks. Just as well we’re in a four-wheel drive.

“It’s OK. I know we can get through. I’ve been this way on my bike.”

Strange fruit in Temuco market.

That’s sort of reassuring. After a while we pop back out onto a paved road and there we are. At the restaurant. On a street with wheelless cars.

When we enter, a woman is playing guitar and singing. Most of the tables are occupied but we manage to grab one which has just been vacated.

No pisco sours here, unfortunately. Only wine. Camilo suggests fruit juice. We get four different ones. Not so sure about the one with beetroot. The one I go for, kiwi and mint, is delicious.

Mixed vegetables topped with slabs of beef.

On Camilo’s suggestion, we all order a dish of mixed vegetables with meat. Three types of meat: beef, pork and chicken. It’s dead good. Especially with added merken, which here is liquid rather than powder. Easily the healthiest meal I’ve had so far.

When We get back, a professor from one of the town’s universities is giving a talk on using spent grain as food. In the main hall. Part way through, I get headphones for a translation. Luckily, there's beer. I have an IPA. Or two. They’re only small paper cups, after all.

Presenting between locomotives.

Between talks, I have a closer look at some of the locomotives. Especially the big, muscular steam engines. I assume that they were built in the USA. I’m wrong. In reality, they were constructed by Mitsubishi in Japan.

Sandy is on next. Giving her talk seated. Which is understandable. It’s about women in brewing. A fascinating, and mostly neglected, subject.

When she's done, there are nibbles. And a live band. Well, part of a live band. They look like heavy metal. But the first part is two acoustic guitars and a violin. Then it becomes an electric guitar, singer and pre-recorded backing track. And very heavy metal. Lots of shaking their long hair around.

Part of a heavy metal band.

When the food runs out, we head back to the hotel. On the way I get chatting about German beer history with Markus. It’s good to discuss the topic with someone who actually knows what they’re talking about.

I mention the book celebrating 100 years of the Deutscher Brauer Bund and how it completely skips the Nazi period.

“The 150th anniversary book does cover it.” He tells me. “Because I wrote it.”

“That sounds interesting. I’d like to read that.”

“I’ll send you the text.”

“Thanks.” That’s very nice of him.

Wet only briefly nip into the hotel. Stuff dropped off, we set off for Caravan. Which isn't far. It's billed as an Irish pub. Though it seems a rather vague theme. They do sell lots of different beers, however,

Marcus and Pete are already there, with pisco sours, when I arrive with Paddy and Chris. I get a pisco sour, too. Just to be sociable. And I don’t really fancy any of the draught beers.

I spotted St. Bernard in Temuco.

We order some seafood. A sharing platter. But I don't eat much. just a squid ring and a mussel topped with parmesan. I’m not really hungry. Which isn’t the case of the others. They order a second round of food.

People drift off and eventually it’s just me and Chris. We have a whisky nightcap. As you do.

Now here’s a dilemma. We've been invited to Strom. Should we go? It’s getting pretty late and it will take us 15 minutes to walk there. When the owner says he'll come and collect us, the decision is made. It’s getting on for 23:30 when we leave.

Bonnet beer taps at Strom.

Strom’s pub is called the Monster Kustom Bar It's like a sort of rock bar. There’s a motorbike and various bits of cars as décor. It’s a very industrial look.

We have an Imperial Stout. You can never go wrong with an Imperial Stout.

We can't stay long as we need to be at the hotel by midnight. It's half past by the time we get back but Chris has warned them.

I go straight to bed. I had my nightcap earlier.




Museo Nacional Ferroviario Pablo Neruda
Av. Barros Arana 0565,
Temuco,
Araucanía.
https://museoferroviariopabloneruda.cl/visitanos/ 

Zuny Tradiciones Restaurant
Gral. Cruz 0560,
4780000 Temuco,
Araucanía.


Caravan Resto Beer
Av. Alemania 0740,
4810214 Temuco,
Araucanía.


Monster Kustom Bar
Phillippi 438,
4801058 Temuco,
Araucanía. 

Disclaimer: The First International Araucania Cervercera Congress paid for my flights and for my hotel in Temuco, along with food and drink.

Up in the Andes

“It's a pity it'll be dark when we arrive." Chris told me yesterday. "Because the view is amazing."

I rise just around dawn. And he's not wrong. The view out of my room's window is incredible. As the first rays strike the peaks and turn them to gold. God, I love Chile. It’s so beautiful.

The Andes at Lonquimay at dawn

It’s a toasty 23º C in my room according to the thermostat. The only time I’ve been properly warm since landing in Temuco.

I'm the first down for breakfast. Which makes a change. Paddy comes down soon after. With more fascinating tales of the brewing industry in the 1980s. He worked at so many long-closed breweries: M&B Springfield, Cape Hill, Highgate, George’s, Horsleydown.

A breakfast of two fried eggs, fruit and tea.

By the time Chris comes down, I've polished off my two fried eggs. And have moved onto fruit. Got to get some healthy stuff into my body. It’s a pretty good spread. But only instant coffee. I drink tea. Very nice Twinings tea.

Boris turns up and takes us to the malt room. Which is incredibly hot. When we progress down to the brewery, I realise why. The copper is under the malt room. It's heating up. And is directly fired by a gas burner. Quite spectacular. Not something you see every day.

Copper with burner underneath

When the water is hot enough, it's filled into the mash tun. And we return to the malt room to add the malt. Not that I do any lifting of sacks. That's too much like work. Something which, as a happily retired man, I never plan doing again.

Paddy, who has over 40 years’ experience as a brewer, has some detailed comments about the setup. Especially the mash tun, which is a tall, narrow cylinder.  A mash tun is ideally wide and shallow.

Lots of constructive suggestions follow from Paddy. Boris, keen to learn, asks lots of questions. This is what was supposed to be happening at the conference and surrounding events. Local brewers benefitting from the knowledge and experience of the foreign experts. It’s happening in spades here.

Not sure where I fit in. All I know about is history. At least the recipe is mine. Or. At least, started out that way.

Boris shows us where the new brew house he's bought from China will be installed. This is the view:

Brewhouse view of the Andes

Once we're mashed in, Paddy and Sue head off for a walk.

"Do you want to come along, Ron?"

"No, that looks like too much climbing for me."

Ah, the joy of growing old. Hills are off the agenda permanently. Unless someone is prepared to carry me. Don’t think there’s much chance of that.

Instead of torturing myself., I sit in the warmth of the bar, gazing at the mountains. I've not got bored of them yet. Typing up notes on my laptop and slowly sipping on a pint of Pewenche, a dark 8% beer. The brewer asked yesterday what style I thought it was. "Dark Mild." was my reply. Before I found out it was 8% ABV. Knowing that, I'd go with Burton Ale.

The rooms are all named after their beers. Coincidentally, I’m staying in the one called Pewenche.

I haven’t told you what the beer is that we’re brewing yet, have I? It’s based on an 1890s Thomas Usher Shilling Ale recipe. Based being the operative word. There have been a few tweaks.

While everyone is away, four young people arrive. They don’t look like customers and don’t buy anything. They just stand around. Who the hell are they?

It's quite a while before Paddy and Sue come back. They've been to look at a volcano. Not something you can do often in the UK. They’re accompanied by the owner of Metrulo, another tiny brewery nearby.

Boris is very passionate and very energetic. He built the brewery, bar and hotel himself. I don’t mean totally on his own, but without a builder.

While we’re waiting for the mash to run off, we eat lunch. I have Chilean shepherd's pie (as Chris describes it): ground maize on the top, boiled egg, chicken and ham underneath - it's really good.

Chilean shepherd's pie

The other brewer has brought four beers, which we sample after lunch. Three of them are nice and clean. The fourth, Cream Porter, is a gusher. The beer goes all over the table and the poor bloke’s phone. It’s all a bit of a mess.

After lunch, the brew is ready for boiling. Paddy adds the hops standing on a rather rickety ladder. Rather him than me. I declined the opportunity.  Done it plenty of times before. Much more safely.

It turns out the young people are some sort of regional government officials. Checking on what we’re up to. They seem pretty impressed with Paddy’s detailed suggestions to Boris regarding process. It’s like a free consultancy

When we’ve finished cleaning up, we drive back to Temuco. Initially, there’s stunning mountain scenery. Then it looks like England, lush and green - except with snow-capped volcanoes in the background. That doesn’t stop me nodding off. It is a 2.5 hours drive.

Many of the wooden houses have a medieval look, with the first floor protruding a half metre or so. What that’s all about? It features in both old and brand-new houses.

Small food shops are everywhere. In Lonquimay and randomly at points along the road. Laden with brightly-painted signs advertising Crystal beer and Pepsi Cola. Along with holiday cabins, shops make up most of the rare structures scattered by the roadway.

Fields and pastures surf over the hills, uninterrupted save for brave stands of trees, tall and upright. Pines hum a dull green. Barren deciduous cousins sprout the barest flashes of green from their fingertips. Spring hasn’t quite sprung.

Biergarten Klein interior on a sunny day

We go straight to Klein where we meet Markus and Asbjorn. Markus has his favourite mix of draught beers and goes behind the bar to pour it. He must have done it before, as none of the staff bat an eyelid. Or maybe they’re really laid back.

I have an Imperial Stout. A pint, obviously. But I don’t want to fill myself up. So, I switch to gin. The London Dry gin, to be precise. Very fragrant. It slips down a treat. It was my favourite of the three I tried on my first night in Temuco.

We go outside where Camilo is barbecuing delicious steak. 

Camilo barbecues steak

Pete comes back from his collaboration brew and isn't happy because he had to give a talk he wasn't warned of. I understand his annoyance. It’s not nice being ambushed that way. It appears it was the same type of government officials who visited us who insisted on the talks. I think Paddy’s masterclass got us out of giving impromptu presentations.

I’m not hungry at all. That doesn’t stop me grabbing a cube of beef every time they come past. Damn, that’s nice.

I drink more gin. It is rather good. At least that’s what I keep telling myself. Sue has never tried straight gin before. Only mixed with tonic. Judging by the look on her face, I don’t think she’ll be dropping the tonic anytime soon.

I get to bed about eleven. Flopping down to immediate sleep.



Biergarten Klein
Los Ganaderos 03326,
4811829 Temuco,
Araucanía.
http://www.klein.cl/


Disclaimer: The First International Araucania Cervercera Congress paid for my flights and for my hotel in Temuco, along with food and drink.