Thursday 17 March 2022

Sao Paolo

I get up around 8:30. Should I go downstairs for breakfast? As I'm not hungry, it seems rather pointless.

Instead, I hang around in my room. Writing emails and that sort of shit. I watch some Brazilian football. Cup games. One of the teams has a player called Lineker. I'm guessing that's not his real name.

My first destination is EAP Empório Alto de Pinheiros. It's been highly recommended and is supposedly Sao Paolo's best beer bar. I plan getting there a little after it's opening time of 11:00. I have two options for getting there: up the main road and turn left, or go through the backstreets. I choose the former, as it's far simpler.


It's hot outside. Over 30 C. Glad I put on that sunscreen as there's no shade. I checked the route on Streetview and know exactly where to turn off the main road. I spot a little shop and get myself a bottle of water. It's hot, as I already told you. Far too hot for someone as English as me.

I park my flabby arse at the bar. There are 40 draught beers. What to choose?

Croma Pow! Pow! 7% ABV
One of those new-fangled juicy IPAs. Looks like orange juice and tastes a bit like it. Quite refreshing, which is just as well given the 45 minutes walking I've just done.

I got the longest walk out of the way first. I have several stops planned on my way back to my hotel. I really can't be doing with too much walking in this heat.


I got here 30 minutes after opening. I'm the only customer. I don't care. I hate crowds.

Nothing at all planned today. Other than drink beer and eat food. It's good to have time to relax at the start of a trip.

Dogma Back to Basics V 8% ABV
An American IPA, which I guess means West Coast. Just a slight haze. Quite bitter and not a huge amount of fruitiness. Not as nice as the ones I had in the USA recently, but OK.

You may have noticed that I drink a lot of IPA on my travels. At home, I almost never touch the stuff. Perhaps, the odd pint down Butcher's Tears. Not sure why I suddenly become an IPA fan as soon as leave Holland. Perhaps it's because I travel to the USA so often.

Everyone is still masked up here. Even on the streets. In total contrast to the US. And Holland, for that matter.

Quite a few more punters now it's after midday. Most dining. Not quite that hungry yet myself. I'm saving myself for the next spot, Tank Brewpub.


Satelite Double Space Machine 8% ABV
Double NE IPA.I see that sludge beer has already caught on here. Beer trends spread so quickly nowadays. I guess that's the fault of the internet. The beer isn't as juicy as I would expect. Just looks like orange juice.

I forgot to mention, this is also a shop. They seem to have a pretty good selection, stocking St. Bernardus. but the slot where Abt should be is empty. What a disaster.


Tank isn't that far. When I'm almost there I walk past a little corner bar called Pratty. I have to take a photo. I walk on, then think: that would be a good place for a quick cachaca.

When I ask for one, the barmaid says something I don't understand. She gestures towards a little cask on the bar and to the bottles behind her. I realise that she's asking which one. I point at the cask. Never had draught cachaca before. It costs just 6 reals.

It's pretty quiet in Tank. I guess the last of the lunch trade is just drifting away. I sit at the bar again.

Dank the Tank 6.5%
West Coast IPA. Pretty nice. Fruit aroma, bitter, clear.

I get chatting with the barman. His English is pretty good, which makes things easier. We cover many beery topics. Pretty easy for me. I could speak about beer for months without running out of steam.


He shows me around the brewhouse, which is pretty compact. It has a 5 hl capacity.

I ask him to recommend a beer and he says:

Nao Me Helles 4.8%
It's OK. Quite lagery.

Following this up, I feel like something stronger and get

Double Trouble 8%
Double IPA. Nice and hoppy.

Hunger nibbles my innards. Just a bit. Enough that I ask for the menu. They don't have a physical one, just a QR code. That’s no use to me. Mr. I-can’t-work-my-phone. I have to look at it on the barman's mobile. I opt for fish tacos.



The tacos are pretty good. Not exactly Brazilian, but good. Battered fish and salad between crispy tacos.

My next planned stop is Cervejaria Nacional. But it doesn't open until 16:00 and it's 15:30. I decide to drop by Pratty for another draught cachaca. Earlier, it was packed here. Now I'm the only customer. I guess it is a lunch place.


Just before 16:00 I suddenly feel really tired. Totally knacked, to be honest. Not sure why. I haven't drunk that much. I decide to just head back to my hotel.


On my way out this morning, I noticed a 24-hour shop. I nip in and get a couple of sandwiches and a can of beer. And a bag of crisps.

The beer is Baden Baden IPA. It's not great. It tastes very pasteurised. I notice that it's fruited with maracuja. What is it with all these German beer names?

I lie in bed and watch some footie. One channel seems to be non-stop football.

Mmm. Feeling hungry again. I could get a sandwich downstairs. But the shop isn't far. I head there instead and get another sandwich and a bag of crisps. That's enough for today.

Laphroaig lifts me to my dreams.








1 comment:

Anonymous said...

It's interesting how the IPAs aren't given more Portuguese names. It sort of parallels the way the US brewing industry had so much German in it by the early 20th Century.