Friday, 3 October 2025

Judgement

I rise at 7:30. After a very good sleep. But still feel a bit knacked. Hopefully breakfast will liven me up. Plenty of coffee should do the job.

The breakfast buffet is pretty impressive. Except . . . no real bacon. Just weird turkey bacon. They do have fried eggs, though. Two types, even: over easy and sunny-side up. I get one of the latter. Along with some cheese and a slice of wholemeal toast. Plus orange juice and coffee. I only have one mouthful of the fake bacon. Not very nice. I won't be bothering with that again.

A breakfast of fried egg, cheese, turkey bacon, toast, coffee and orange juice.

The judging room is right next to the restaurant. Which is handy. It saves so much time and effort. The latter being very important for oldies like me. We’re supposed to kick off at 9. It’s actually 9:30. Which isn’t bad. In Brazil we once sat on our arses for three hours because of computer problems.

I’m not table captain. Yippee! I love dodging responsibility. Someone else can do the hard work 

We’re quite an international bunch. Our Australian captain aided by judges from Germany, Singapore and Vietnam. And me, obviously. I’ve never been on a table of five before. Usually, it’s three.

We kick off with International Pale Lager. What fun. All but one are crap. Not such a surprise. At least we get through them quite quickly.

Witbier next. A much better set. A couple of them I rather like. Especially one with a touch of acidity. Like Hoegaarden had back in the day.

A room full of judges in res shirts sitting at tables.

Achieving consensus between five judges is trickier than between three. But, as none of my fellow judges are arseholes, we can work things out. With a bit of give and take. Judges make or break the judging experience. One opinionated twat can suck out all the pleasure. Get a pair of twats, and judging is complete torture.

American Pale Ale is the last flight of the morning. With some pretty decent beers. Hops can cover up a whole load of nastiness. In Pale Lagers, there’s nowhere to hide.

We're running a bit late in the morning session. It’s almost 2 PM when we get done and break for lunch Which is a buffet in the restaurant where we ate breakfast. Just next door. No pissing around travelling somewhere else. Which I appreciate.

It's way more varied than Brazilian buffets. Lots of different types of Asian food. With a whole section for Indian curries. As well as western stuff. The range is both enormous and impressive.  

Various types of shellfish sitting on a bed of ice.

All sorts of fancy stuff. Like large prawns, mussels and other shellfish.  I get some mussels, beef rendang and deep-fried chicken. Tasty.

My afternoon table has another inspiring mix of nationalities: Indian, Belgian, Vietnamese and German. Should promote healthy discussion.

I’m not very optimistic about the first flight, English Pale Ale.

“I don’t have very good experiences of judging this style.” I tell the others. “They’re usually all crap.”

Which, indeed, most of the beers turn out to be. But there’s one really good beer. Making the process worthwhile.

American IPA, which is next up, is an improvement. There are a couple of pretty decent beers in the set.
.
One of my favourite categories follows: Low-alcohol beer. Only joking. It is better than alcohol-free, I suppose. Not as awful as I feared. Some are just about drinkable.

We end with experimental beers. 

“I always suspect that some brewers call beers ‘experimental’ when they go horribly wrong.” I remark. 

“That’s rather cynical.” 

Cynical? Moi? I’m such a positive chap. Despite what my kids say.

Thankfully, a lot of the flight isn’t that out there. In fact, mostly quite in there. Just an extra ingredient or two to add an accent to a standard style. A few are really weird, though. For example, Irish Stout with orange juice. So strange, that it’s really difficult to judge. What were they aiming for? Have they achieved it?

We finish just after six. Leaving me a bit less than an hour to chill in my room before we go out to eat. And to make sure that my duty-free whisky hasn’t gone off while I’ve been judging. I have to check twice, just to make sure.

No bus, this evening. We walk to a Chinese restaurant. When we're almost there, I recognise where we are. As we walk past the Magpie. Where I drank with Andrew a few weeks ago. It's a weird feeling. Like suddenly waking up. While walking down the street.

A table of Chinese food. In the forground prawns, behind chilli crab.

We sit outside the restaurant and plates of food keep arriving. As well as big bottles of Tiger. Everyone digs in enthusiastically. I’m relieved to drink beer without needing to think about it. I knock back a few. Just to be polite, obviously.

The food highlight is chilli crab. Which, being undressed, is a challenge to eat without changing the colour of your shirt.  Someone asks the Vietnamese women next to me if it's spicy. "No." they say. Not my impression. I suppose they have a different concept of spicy in Vietnam.

I leave with a couple of the other older judges a little after nine. I don’t feel like staying out too late. I’ll leave that to the young and the reckless. I’m still feeling a bit knacked. And I’ll need to be up fairly early again tomorrow. Still time to drop by the Seven 11 on my way back.

I watch some YouTube in my room for a while. Before bludgeoning myself unconscious with duty-free whisky. Finding sleep isn’t a problem. It’s right there in front of me. Just looks a bit blurry.



Por Kee Eating House 1996
69 Seng Poh Ln, 
#01-02, 
Singapore 160069. 

Thursday, 2 October 2025

The Long Pull

An Atkinsons Special Aston label featuring a drawing of a man looking at a glass of beer and the text "Hold up the best" and "Atkinsons Brewery Limited Birmingham".
Before WW I there was a weird practice in pubs of the "long pull". Where pub customers were deliberately given an overmeasure. The idea was to attract business by offering better value for money. Rather than sell the beer cheaper, you received a larger measure for the standard price.

It always seemed a bit weird to me. And I assumed the overmeasure was 10% or 15%. Which still seemed quite a lot. How wrong I was. It also seems to have been very widespread. At least in some districts.

The Trade and the “Long Pull.”
A circular has been issued by the Birmingham and Midland Counties Wholesale Brewers' Association to the retail licensed trade in the area under their control, in which the “long pull” is practised to an extent affecting 8,000 houses, to the effect that on and after July 16th the "long pull" will be discontinued, and a maximum of 25 per cent, over measure will be permitted. As a sequel to this circular there will also be sent out a printed card for exhibition in a prominent part of the various houses intimating the discontinuance referred to. We understand that up to the present time fully 95 per cent, of the trade have intimated their willingness to assent to the proposal regarding the “long pull." The remaining 5 per cent, it is believed will no doubt be brought into line when they realise the comparative unanimity of their trade colleagues, and the necessity for concerted action. In the event of their still holding out public opinion is relied upon to induce them to lend their practical support towards sweeping away a custom which is admitted to be open to abuse.
The Brewers' Journal vol. 36 1900, July 15th 1900, page 404.

It sounds like the pratice was very widespread in Birmingham. And the size of the overmeasure - often more than 50% - is incredible. When you ordered a pint, you'd get more than 1.5 pints. Which is crazy. Even after "abolishing" the long pull, landlords were still allowed to serve a 25% overmeasure. Which still seems like quite a lot to me.

The long pull was still around at the start of WW I. Until it was made illegal as part of wartime restrictions on the drinks trade. 

Wednesday, 1 October 2025

Let's Brew Wednesday - 1885 Thomas Usher PA 60/-

A Thomas Usher 90/- Ale label featuring a six-pointed star and the words "natural condition".
Don’t you just love the random use of Shilling designations by Usher? It’s clear that the original use of shilling classifications: to indicate the wholesale price of a hogshead, was over. 

There’s no way that this beer wholesaled for 60/- a hogshead. A fancy Pale Ale like this would probably have cost 54/- a barrel, 81/- a hogshead. 60/- would be the price of something like an XX Mild Ale.

Most of the grist was a single type of Scottish pale malt. Along with a tiny amount of caramel. Which darkens the colour a bit. But couldn’t have really had much impact on the flavour.

Two types of hops, as usual, California from the 1883 season and Alsace from 1884.

As the hopping rate is the same as for the weaker Pale Ales, I don’t think this beer was aged for any length of time. No more than a couple of months, at most. Though it was probably conditioned for longer than its weaker siblings. 

1885 Thomas Usher PA 60/-
pale malt 14.00 lb 99.79%
caramel 1000 SRM 0.03 lb 0.21%
Cluster 90 min 2.25 oz
Strisselspalt 30 min 2.25 oz
Goldings dry hops 1.00 oz
OG 1060
FG 1017
ABV 5.69
Apparent attenuation 71.67%
IBU 60
SRM 7.5
Mash at 152º F
Sparge at 175º F
Boil time 90 minutes
pitching temp 59º F
Yeast WLP028 Edinburgh Ale

 

Tuesday, 30 September 2025

Singapore swinging

“Again? You’re going to Singapore again?”

“Yes, Dolores. I told you.”

“Did you? But you were there just a few weeks ago. Why are you going again?”

“To judge.”

“Oh. And how much is that costing us?”

“Not too much.”

“That’s what you always say.”

Dolores was impressed with me returning to Singapore so soon. But she’s given up trying to make me see reason.

No Dolores to say goodbye to me this time She left for Germany this morning. And Alexei is only just back from work when I leave.

A plate of rice and butter chiken. Flanked by a fork and spoon.

Schiphol isn't too busy. In no time I'm in the lounge loading up with whisky. Once I've downed the first brace, I go for some food. I was expecting rendang again. But this time they have butter chicken Which is really nice.

When I've eaten that, I get myself another brace of whiskies. For food round 2 I it’s cheese and pastrami. And another pair of whiskies. I need to get in my ration of those. I wouldn’t want to be flying completely sober. Not with my age and reputation.

Two glasses of whisky on a table. In the background, seated people look out over parked aircraft.

Am I slowing down as I get older? Of course I fucking am. None of us can defy the march of time. Which inevitably tramps all over all of us, sooner or later.

I wander down to the gate a little after 8 PM. And don't have to wait long before boarding. Thankfully. I hate hanging around at the gate. Especially when I could have spent that time stuffing myself with food and booze for free in the lounge.

An hour or so after take-off they serve a meal. I opt for the chicken. Though I don't eat much of it. A few mouthfuls. I do eat all the fruit, mind. Being such a healthy bastard.

I start watching Thenderbolts, but keep dozing off. I’m still not sure what it was on about. Some superheroes doing shit for some reason or other.

Not long after dinner, the bloke sitting next to me has a chat with one of the cabin crew. Then he and his wife just disappear. Have they upgraded? I can't imagine they've moved elsewhere in economy, as they said the flight was full. I'm not complaining, as I've room to lie down.

I get a pretty decent kip. Waking up about 2.5 hours out from Singapore. And watch some TV. Just total crap. My brain isn’t in the mood for anything complex. Like a genuine plot. Just feed me some pap with a spoon.

Breakfast isn't very appetising. I only eat the fruit. And drink a coffee and an orange juice.

KLM breakfast. Some sort of pastry, and plastic tubs of yoghurt and fruit. And a coffee and an orange juice.

The arrival gate isn’t quite in Malaysia this time. It’s not so far to immigration and baggage retrieval. My bag comes out pretty quickly. Soon I'm speeding towards my hotel in a taxi.

I've a couple of hours before the welcome dinner. Which I kill with some internet fiddling and duty-free whisky. It’s a pretty nice hotel with a decent-sized room.

At 18:30, we take a bus to the venue. Which is a rooftop restaurant in a small hotel. With stunning views of the city. There’s just the one downside: no bogs. You have to go down to the ground floor for toileting purposes. Which is a bit inconvenient. Especially for oldies like me.

The view from the rooftop restaurant. In the foreground the red tile roofs of traditional houses. In the background, modern high-rises.

There are a couple of judges I've met before. Like Kjetil Jikiun, a Norwegian bloke I judged with in Balneário Camboriú in Brazil in March. It’s a very international group. Lots from Asia, unsurprisingly. A good spread of ages, too. Most of the Asian judges are quite young. Not so much the Europeans. Some of whom are even older than me.

I have fun telling people how Charles Guerrier, this competition’s organiser, broke my arm in Brazil last year. When his legs stopped working after a day drinking cachaca. Luckily, I was pissed as well, which helped numb the pain.

There are a few beers on draught. Including Lion Brewery Boss IPA. Which is really nice. Better than in the brewery a few weeks back. Maybe the view is making it taste better.

The food is various meat bits. Which are quite pleasant. I’m not sure which meal my body thinks it is. Almost certainly not dinner. Just as well that it isn’t too heavy.

I go straight back to my room when we get back to the hotel. I'm not tempted to carry on in the bar, as some judges do. I need to get my body in sync with the time zone. Otherwise, the next few days will be a nightmare.

Just time for a quick eye-closer of whisky. I have no problem falling asleep.



Jayleen 1918 Hotel
42 Carpenter St, 
Singapore 059921
https://www.jayleen1918.com.sg/ 

Monday, 29 September 2025

Illicit Brewing

A Home Ales Home Brewed label featuring a drawing of a bearded man with a club.
After 1880, the rules on domestic brewing changed. The most notable being that such brewers were obliged to take out a licence, something which hadn't been required before.

These rules covered both farmers brewing for their employees and those just home brewing for themselves. These rules remained in place until the 1960s. And, while you might have expected such rules to kill off home brewing, it did, in fact, survive. With licences being issued right up until the end.

You can see in the table that, in 1900, 12,734 licences for brewing beer "not for sale" were issued. Which were for those brewing as the gentleman in the article below. Note that it was only during WW I that commercial licences became the majority.

Total brewing licences 1881 - 1920
Year not for sale for sale total
  number % number %  
1881 71,876 81.1% 16,798 18.9% 88,674
1882 110,025 87.5% 15,774 12.5% 125,799
1885 88,007 86.4% 13,799 13.6% 101,806
1886 95,301 87.7% 13,308 12.3% 108,609
1890 25,281 69.0% 11,364 31.0% 36,645
1895 17,041 65.3% 9,050 34.7% 26,091
1900 12,734 66.4% 6,447 33.6% 19,181
1905 9,930 65.2% 5,311 34.8% 15,241
1908 8,481 63.8% 4,808 36.2% 13,289
1909 7,568 61.9% 4,667 38.1% 12,235
1910 7,006 60.8% 4,512 39.2% 11,518
1911 6,855 61.3% 4,329 38.7% 11,184
1915 4,741 57.1% 3,556 42.9% 8,297
1917 5,217 61.8% 3,223 38.2% 8,440
1918 1,602 33.7% 3,148 66.3% 4,750
1919 1,879 38.1% 3,054 61.9% 4,933
1920 2,999 50.7% 2,914 49.3% 5,913
Sources:
Brewers' Almanack 1912, page 157.
Brewers' Almanack 1922, page 117.
Brewers' Almanack 1928, page 118.

 

Illicit Brewing.
At the Sampford Petty Sessions, held on the 22nd ult, John Salmon Goodchild, of the Manor Farm, East Bergholt, was charged with brewing beer without having in force a proper licence, and whereby he forfeited the sum of £100.

Mr. S. McLean, supervisor of the Inland Revenue, Colchester, prosecuted, and said defendant resided at East Bergholt in a house assessed at £16 a year, and by reason of this he was not only liable for a licence, but also for duty. He also had a cottage about a quarter of a mile away from the house, of £2 annual value, and in this cottage he had a brewing plant. The beer was brewed and conveyed to the farmhouse.

William Shinn, Officer of the Inland Revenue, Manningtree, said that on April 6th he visited a cottage in the occupation of defendant at East Bergholt, and found him brewing three bushels of malt. He saw two coppers, one about 27 gallons, the other about nine, a barrel of about 36 gallons, and three tubs, each about 27 gallons, one full of wort. Defendant told witness he thought he had a right to brew there because he occupied the house with his brewing utensils, and a solicitor had told him that he might do so. He also said that he would sleep there one night in twelve, and comply with the law with regard to occupation. He added that he knew he was liable if he brewed at the farmhouse, so he bought the cottage and placed the coppers there.

 Continuing, witness said that supposing defendant should prove that his father occupied the farmhouse, he would still be liable for beer duty and licence as a lodger, but he admitted that he was the occupier of the house.

Mr. McLean said that the probable loss of revenue since defendant had been brewing was about £8.

Defendant said Mr. Shinn's evidence was perfectly correct, and he did not wish to cross-examine him. It was a well-known fact that he brewed at the cottage, but it had never been pointed out to him by the authorities that he was liable, and he did not know that he was. After this, of course, he should take out a licence.

The Chairman said that it was the opinion of the Bench that it was defendant’s duty to have found out his liability. There was very little doubt that he had been evading the law for some considerable time, and he would be fined £10, including costs, and in default one month’s imprisonment.
The Brewers' Journal vol. 36 1900, June 15th 1900, page 362.

I think the reason that they were going on about the rateable value of the premises where ebrewing took place was on account of the exact rules. T relieve agricultural workers of the need tro get a licence to homebrew, there was an exemption from the licence requirement for those residing in property of under a certain rateable value. 

Which is why Mr. Goodchild bough a cottage and brewer there. Except that didn't count, as he really resided at the more valuable farmhouse. 

Sunday, 28 September 2025

Thomas Usher brews December 1900 to February 1901

A Thomas Usher Sweet Stout label featuring a six-pointed star.
My technique varies when photographing brewing records. Sometimes I'll skip through looking for specific beers. While when they're in Scottish format (multiple beers per page), I'll sometimes do long blocks where I'll photograph every page. Especially if I have time.

Which is what I did with the Thomas Usher records for around 1900. Leaving me with several consecutive months where I have every beer photographed. Giving me a decent picture of what they were brewing and how much of it. Like for the three months December 1900 to February 1901. And, as I'm wont to do, I've stuck the information into a handy table.

It was a fairly wide range. Twelve different beers in all. Five Shilling Ales, an IPA, four Pale Ales, a Stock Ale and A Stout. Though the quantity brewed of each varied widely. A massive 82% of the total brewed was in the form of Pale Ales (including IPA). With just 12% Shilling Ales and a mere 4% Stout.

At Whitbread in London, things looked very different. Their output was about 18% Pale Ale, 46% Mild Ale, 33% Porter and Stout, and only about 2% Burton Ale.

What does this tell us? That at Usher the transition had already been made to being basically a Pale Ale brewer. Something which become complete after WW I, when Pale Ale was all they brewed. Scotland was out of phase with England in terms of beer styles. Mild Ale never dominated, as it did in England for 100 years or more. There was a much earlier switch to Pale Ale. And, in the 20th century, a much earlier change to Lager. 

You could say that Scotland was blazing a trail that England would later follow. And what about Ireland? That's a totally different story. 

Thomas Usher brews December 1900 to February 1901
Beer Style No. brews OG FG ABV App. Atten-uation lbs hops/ qtr hops lb/brl barrels %
100/- Ale 12 1065.6 1027.4 5.05 58.17% 5.08 1.82 338.5 2.75%
50/- Br Ale 9 1032 1009.3 3.00 70.83% 6.22 1.00 233 1.89%
60/- Ale 10 1040 1015.6 3.23 61.00% 5.1 0.90 246 2.00%
60/- Br Ale 8 1035.3 1010 3.34 71.62% 6.25 1.13 205.5 1.67%
80/- Ale 11 1050 1017.1 4.35 65.73% 5.09 1.13 479.5 3.89%
IP IPA 22 1043.4 1013.3 3.99 69.43% 6.59 1.42 2781.5 22.57%
X Pale Ale 24 1046 1014.2 4.21 69.17% 6.71 1.54 2564 20.80%
PA Pale Ale 21 1049 1015 4.49 69.31% 7 1.67 3089 25.06%
X 60/- Pale Ale 3 1052 1015.7 4.81 69.87% 7 1.83 130 1.05%
PA 60/- Pale Ale 11 1055 1015.9 5.18 71.16% 7 1.78 1567.5 12.72%
XX Stock Ale 1 1052 1015 4.89 71.15% 10 2.57 171 1.39%
Stout Stout 8 1057.9 1026.9 4.10 53.57% 5 1.47 519.5 4.22%
Total   140             12,325  
Source:
Thomas Usher brewing record held at the Scottish Brewing Archives, document number TU/6/1/3.

 

 

Saturday, 27 September 2025

Let's Brew - 1885 Thomas Usher XX Stock

An Usher's Pale Ale label featuring a drawing of a tankard.
Usher also brewed a slightly stronger Stock Ale, XX. A beer at the same gravity as PA, 1054º.

Not much to say about the recipe, as this was parti-gyled with the X Stock above. What more can I say? 

Both X Stock and XX Stock are a bit on the weak side to be Stock Ales. Usually, beers meant for ageing would be at least 1060º.

How long would this have been aged? Probably six months to a year. I don’t think any longer than that. 

1885 Thomas Usher XX Stock
pale malt 12.50 lb 100.00%
Strisselspalt 90 min 3.25 oz
Hallertau 30 min 3.25 oz
Goldings dry hops 1.00 oz
OG 1054
FG 1015
ABV 5.16
Apparent attenuation 72.22%
IBU 69
SRM 5
Mash at 151º F
Sparge at 175º F
Boil time 90 minutes
pitching temp 58.5º F
Yeast WLP028 Edinburgh Ale

 

Friday, 26 September 2025

Brewing in Rhodesia

A Castlr Milk Stout label featuring a drawing of a castle and the text "Brewed and bottled in Rhodesia".
One of the features of the Brewers' Journal that I really appreciate are the articles on brewing in random parts of the world. Quite often, but not always, parts of the British Empire.

Here it's the turn of Rhodesia, current day Zimbabwe. Where the brewers had a bit of a problem. They'd run out of imported malt. What was the solution? To malt a local grain and use that instead.

Brewing in Rhodesia.
(From the Bulawayo Chronicle').
It goes without saying that a considerable section of the inhabitants of this town — it is not necessary to assert a large section — is aware of the fact that it has for some time past been without its regular quantum of local beer or stout, as the case may be. The reason for this is simply that the supply of malt, which is imported from England, has run out, and in consequence, to quote a distinguished legal luminary, people have been unable to obtain “a liquor which is almost non-intoxicating but, I am advised, most nourishing.”

Owing first to the customs duties, and secondly to the war, the cost of imported beers has appreciated about 150 Per cent., and therefore the failure of the local article has been the more felt. With the idea of meeting this distressing condition of affairs, it occurred to Mr. C. H. Newberry, of the Charter Brewery, who may be remembered as one of the earliest assayers up here, to endeavour to meet the emergency by manufacturing a malt from local products, which should serve as a substitute for the imported article. Accordingly experiments have recently been made, at the Charter Brewery, which seem to have attained a sufficient measure of success to warrant the expectation that the difficulty will be overcome and the town once more supplied with local beer and stout which shall be at once both palatable and pleasant. A quantity of Kaffir corn of the finest quality was first taken in hand. This went through the process of being turned into malt, and from it was manufactured a considerable quantity of both beer and stout. That there were considerable initial difficulties to be overcome will be easily understood, but nevertheless the resultant products, though somewhat different in appearance to what we have been accustomed to, sold out very readily, and.brought orders for more. Encouraged by the success of the first trial, the Charter Brewery are now proceeding with further brews, but this time are utilising white mealies of the finest description procurable to make the malt. Those who are acquainted with the rudiments of the science of brewing will probably admit there is no a priori reason why malt of first-class quality cannot be made from good mealies, and granted this, it follows that with careful vigilance exercised over the subsequent processes, a very palatable product in the shape of both beer and stout can be manufactured. At any rate the company seem to be on the right track to supply the town with a good beverage at a reasonable price, and everyone will wish them success in their efforts. The results of further experiments will be awaited with interest.
The Brewers' Journal vol. 36 1900, May 15th 1900, page 281.

What is Kaffir corn? According to the internet, it's another name for sorghum. Which I know has been used for brewing elsewhere in Africa. For example, Nigerian Guinness.  So it's no surprise that they were able to use it successfully in Bulawayo.

I only have one question: what were they using for hops? I'm guessing that they must have still had supplies of hops. Or did they use another bittering agent? 

Thursday, 25 September 2025

Priming with lactose

A Mackeson Milk Stout label featuring a milk churn and the words "the original & genuine".
This is a rather strange one. Just about the time that Milk Stout was being invented, someone proposed a different use for lactose: in priming.

This use was proposed by a Mr. J. Melhuish.\

Priming for Malt Liquors.
The object of the inventor is to produce a priming for malt liquors which will not lose its characteristic flavour in course of such time as the beer is proposed to be kept in stock. In ordinary practice the cane or invert sugar, or glucose employed, speedily loses its sweetening power and becomes changed into other products, thus rendering it impossible to say exactly what degree of sweetness may remain at any given time after brewing is completed, say for instance three months. To obviate this uncertainty the inventor, Mr. J. Melhuish, lecturer on dietetics. Glasgow, instead of using sugar or glucose, employs as priming agent, lactose, or milk sugar, the quantity recommended being eight pounds dissolved in its own weight of boiling water, to each barrel. It is stated to be permanent in character, and not to deteriorate in regard to flavour except by the agency of lactic ferments, which have already been destroyed during the fermentation of the beer.
The Brewers' Journal vol. 45 1909, March 15th 1909, page 185.

To me, it makes absolutely no sense. Anf implies that Mr. Melhuish didn't really understand the purpose of priming. He seems to have assumed that it was intended to add a permanent degree of sweetness. Which, obviously, would work better with unfermentable lactose than with derivations of sucrose. Whereas, in reality, the principal function of primings was to add fermentable material to bring the beer into condition in the cask.

Mr. Melhuish also made the assumption that no yeast could ferment lactose. But that's not true. Some types of Brettanomyces can. If you left a beerr for several months, then a Brettanomyces could kick in and alter the flavour profile, anyway.

Overall, it sounds like a crap idea. Which is probably why it never became popular. Though I can think of an example of its use: at Whitbread. In the 1930s, when they brewed Mackeson Milk Stout, they didn't add the lactose in the boil but at racking time as prinings.
 

Wednesday, 24 September 2025

Let's Brew Wednesday -'1885 Thomas Usher X

An Usher's Pale Ale label featuring a six-pointed star.
Usually, when you see a beer called X, you can be pretty sure that it’s a Mild Ale. But that’s not the case here. For a variety of reasons. The main one being that it was parti-gyled with a Pale Ale.

True, in terms of gravity, it is very similar to a provincial English X Ale of the time. But the bitterness level is much higher. So I’m really unsure as to what this beer was sold as. Especially as their Shillings Ales seem to be filling the Mild Ale slots. Though Mild Ales never seems to have had the same foothold in Scotland as it did in England. And would pretty much disappear after WW I.

My conclusion is that X was a Pale Ale, slotting into the range between IPA and PA.

There’s not a great deal to the recipe. Just a single type of Scottish pale malt. The hops are a guess, based on what was used in other brews on the same page. Which were equal amounts of Californian and Alsace hops. 

1885 Thomas Usher X
pale malt 11.50 lb 100.00%
Cluster 90 min 2.00 oz
Strisselspalt 30 min 2.00 oz
Goldings dry hops 1.00 oz
OG 1050
FG 1017
ABV 4.37
Apparent attenuation 66.00%
IBU 58
SRM 4.5
Mash at 151º F
Sparge at 175º F
Boil time 90 minutes
pitching temp 59º F
Yeast WLP028 Edinburgh Ale

 

Monday, 22 September 2025

Thomas Usher beers in 1914

A Thomas Usher Sweet Stout label featuring a six-pointed star.
As promised, here's a over-detailed look at Thomas Usher's beers on the eve of WW I. And see how much, if at all, they have changed since 1894.

The most obvious change is the number of beers. Seventeen compared with just 12 back in 1894. A lot of this is accounted for by the range of Shilling Mild Ales. Which are five in total, ranging in gravity from 1029º to 1065º. Though the 60/-, 80/- and 100/- probably did exist in 1894, just without the MA suffix. 

The two weakest – 40/- MA and 50/- MA – do seem to be new beers. With gravities, 1032º and 1035º, which were pathetically weak for pre-WW I beers.

I’ve still no idea what the “Br” suffix means. There’s been a new, extremely weak beer added to the set: 40/- Br.  Its gravity of just 1029º is at a level only really seen in Table Beer.

There’s also a new 40/- PA with the extremely low gravity of 1029º. Which is truly ridiculous for a pre-WW I Pale Ale.

All the beers have lost 1º or 2º in gravity in the intervening two decades. Which is pretty standard across all breweries. And a reaction to the increase in taxation after 1900.

There are still two Stouts, though one is now a good bit weaker at 1046º. Which is pretty low for a Stout. Weaker even than most Porter.

They’re up to five Pale Ales and an IPA. Which is an indication of how the market was going in Scotland. I’m sure it’s no coincidence that there was a difference in 3º between each of them: 1042º, 1045º, 1048º, 1051º and 1054º. Other than the feeble 40/- PA. I can’t imagine that there was any pub that sold the whole set. More likely just a couple of them.

XP is a weird one. I’ve only one example of it, from 1913. XP was used by other brewers, such as William Younger. But there it was an IPA of about 1055º. Whereas here it’s clearly some sort of Strong Ale. Though it was parti-gyled with a couple of Pale Ales. 

Thomas Usher beers in 1914
Date Beer Style OG FG ABV App. Atten-uation lbs hops/ qtr hops lb/brl
24th Dec 40/- Br Ale 1029 1010 2.51 65.52% 6.00 0.72
24th Dec 50/- Br Ale 1032 1010 2.91 68.75% 6.00 0.80
17th Dec 60/- Br Ale 1033 1010 3.04 69.70% 6.00 0.82
26th Aug 44/- MA Mild 1032 1012.5 2.58 60.94% 5.00 0.69
26th Aug 50/- MA Mild 1035 1013 2.91 62.86% 5.00 0.75
24th Dec 60/- MA Mild 1039 1016 3.04 58.97% 5.00 0.84
24th Dec 80/- MA Mild 1047 1018 3.84 61.70% 5.00 1.01
26th Aug 100/- MA Mild 1065 1027 5.03 58.46% 5.00 1.40
24th Aug X Pale Ale 1045 1013 4.23 71.11% 7.25 1.35
20th Aug X 60/- Pale Ale 1051 1013.5 4.96 73.53% 7.25 1.52
26th Aug IP IPA 1042 1013 3.84 69.05% 6.00 1.04
24th Aug 40/- PA Pale Ale 1029 1009 2.65 68.97% 7.25 0.87
24th Aug PA Pale Ale 1048 1014 4.50 70.83% 7.25 1.44
21st Dec PA 60/- Pale Ale 1054 1016 5.03 70.37% 6.00 1.28
25th Aug 48/- Stout 1046 1021 3.31 54.35% 5.00 1.04
25th Aug 54/- Stout 1056 1025 4.10 55.36% 5.00 1.27
25th Sep XP Strong Ale 1085 1027 7.67 68.24% 7.00 2.46
Source:
Thomas Usher brewing record held at the Scottish Brewing Archives, document number TU/6/1/5.