Wednesday, 22 December 2010

Let's Brew Wednesday - 1933 Barclay Perkins KKKK

It's the last Let's Brew of the year and, amazingly, this is Wedenesday. At least I've ended the year well.

Which series are we doing? Barclay Perkins between the wars, wasn't it. Or something like that. Today it's a very special beer. KKKK. Something Barclay Perkins brewed for the winter. A strong Old Ale, that was served on draught. Their adverts imply that it was sold from a pin standing on the bar. A common practice, at one time, and a tradition that still survives in some pubs.

Do I need to explain what the K's mean? Again. Alright, the K is derived from "Keeping", or beer that was matured before sale. In the middle of the 19th century, Barclay Perkins brewed two sets of Ales:X Ales that were sold mild and K Ales that were sold matured. X, XX, XXX and XXXX. Then KK, KKK, KKKK. The equivalent beers (XX and KK, XXX and KKK) were exactly the same gravity, but the K Ales had about 50% more hops.

Want some proof of that. Oh, all right then. Here's a nice, neat table:


Barclay Perkins K and X Ales 1869 - 1870
Date
Year
Beer
Style
OG
FG
ABV
App. Attenu-ation
lbs hops/ qtr
hops lb/brl
boil time (hours)
boil time (hours)
boil time (hours)
Pitch temp
pale malt
13th Dec
1869
X
Mild
1060.1
1011.1
6.48
81.53%
6.73
1.94
1.5
2.5
3
61º
100%
13th Dec
1869
XX
Mild
1079.2
1013.9
8.64
82.45%
10.46
4.00
1.5
2.5
3
60º
100%
15th Dec
1869
XXX
Mild
1092.8
1015.6
10.21
83.19%
12.38
4.98
1.5
1.75
3
60º
100%
5th Feb
1870
KK
Stock Ale
1079.2
1012.5
8.83
84.22%
18.27
7.24
2
2
2.5
56º
100%
1st Feb
1870
KKK
Stock Ale
1093.1
1016.5
10.13
82.27%
18.45
7.99
1.5
1.75
2
56º
100%
5th Feb
1870
KKKK
Stock Ale
1106.1
1017.0
11.79
83.98%
18.89
9.11
2
2
2.5
56º
100%
Source:
Barclay Perkins brewing records held at the London Metropolitan Archives


Over the years the ranges were whittled down and the K Ales became known as Strong rather than Stock Ales. For many years Barclay Perkins only brewed one X Ale, er X. And two K Ales, KK and KKK. KK was their Burton, one of the standard draught beers in a London pub for the first half of the 20th century. In the 1930's KKKK, the beer we'll be looking at in more detail later, was revived as a seasonal strong draught beer.

Obviously the gravity of all the X's and K's declined between 1870 and 1933. You'll note that 1930's KKKK was just slightly weaker than the KK of 1870. You'll also note that both X and K Ales had changed colour, from pale in 1870 to dark in 1933.




That's me done. Time for Kristen to do his thing . . . .




Barclay Perkins - 1933 - KKKK
General info: A  happy 'little' Christmas or New Years brew for everyone. Something big with a ton of hops to last a good aging and maybe even unveiling for next year. 4 "K's". When people argue IPA's I point them to these babies. Big and huge. Finishing pretty high in gravity with a butt load of hops to really dry out the end. Something to be put in Nip bottles...not bloody 22oz bombers. Mouth-clearingly awesome!
Beer Specifics

Recipe by percentages
Gravity (OG)
1.076

53.2% English Pale malt
0.7% Caramel
Gravity (FG)
1.023

29.9% American 6-row
0%
ABV
7.07%

5.6% Crystal 75L
0%
Apparent attenuation
69.75%

10.6% Invert No2
0%
Real attenuation
57.14%







IBU
75.2

Mash
90min@154°F
0.81qt/lb

SRM
36


90min@67.6°C
1.69L/kg

EBC
70.4










Boil
2.5 hours













Homebrew @ 70%
Craft @ 80%
Grist
5gal
19L
10bbl
10hl
English Pale malt
7.84
lb
3.568
kg
425.14
lb
164.26
kg
American 6-row
4.41
lb
2.007
kg
239.14
lb
92.40
kg
Crystal 75L
0.82
lb
0.374
kg
44.54
lb
17.21
kg
Invert No2
1.57
lb
0.714
kg
85.03
lb
32.85
kg
Caramel
0.10
lb
0.046
kg
5.44
lb
2.10
kg





799.29



Hops








Goldings 4.5% 150min
2.39
oz
67.9
g
148.46
oz
3.587
kg
Goldings 4.5% 120min
1.20
oz
33.9
g
74.23
oz
1.793
kg
Goldings 4.5% 60min
1.20
oz
33.9
g
74.23
oz
1.793
kg
Goldings 4.5% dry hop
0.41
oz
11.7
g
25.64
oz
0.620
kg









Fermentation
65°F /18.3°C















Yeast
Nottingham ale yeast

1028 London Ale Yeast  - WLP013 London Ale Yeast 









Tasting Notes:
Orangina, spice and sweet sugar plums. Dark cherries with a burnt caramel. Biscuits covered in tar resin and marmalade. Bitter cherry stones and green jasmine tea. A finish that is clean but massively long. Hop burps. Sweeeeet…

Tuesday, 21 December 2010

Papazian Cup/ Protz Shield entries

It's been a bumper year for competition entries. I'm not sure if that fact should make me happy or sad.

The way the contest usually works, is that works by British authors are eligible for the Protz Shield. All other nationalities compete for the Papazian Cup. But this year there were some non-English language entries. Being a generous kind of bloke, I've decided to introduce a third category to recognise that disinformation and plain old bollocks aren't the sole preserve of those writing in English. All I have to do is think of a name for the trophy. Anyone have a suggestion?

While you're pondering that, here are the entries for your amusement and . . what's the opposite of education?





dave said...

    "About Porter

    The original porter was modeled after a popular beer mixture known as the 'three threads'." http://www.pintley.com/browse/style/Porter/53/

    Not overly long but its a submission!




dave said...

    or...

    "IPA got its name because its relatively high levels of hop and alcohol presumably allowed the beer to survive that long sea voyage around the Cape of Good Hope." - Double IPA, Style Profile by Don Russell, Beeradvocate Issue #47.

    Ties in to the new shirt you are selling.
    16 December 2010 14:58
dave said...

    I should have included the full quote from the Beeradvocate article (sorry about the oversite) "Yet, many of today's English IPAs- clocking in at a paltry 4-percent alcohol with a dainty hop presence - couldn't survive a voyage around the block. It's the Brits who need to change, for it's American brewers who are making Real IPA."



dave said...

    No worries Rod. It was the final paragraph to the article. Thought the whole thing tied in quite well with the recent IPA posts by Ron. In all its unbroken glory:

    "IPA got its name because its relatively high levels of hop and alcohol presumably allowed the beer to survive that long sea voyage around the Cape of Good Hope. Yet, many of today's English IPAs- clocking in at a paltry 4-percent alcohol with a dainty hop presence - couldn't survive a voyage around the block.
    It's the Brits who need to change, for it's American brewers who are making Real IPA."
    - Double IPA, Style Profile by Don Russell, Beeradvocate Issue #47.



Tandleman said...

    I claim that JW Lees invested India Pale Ale. It was called Jumbo Ale after Indian Elephants. You must have seen Lees Jumbo Ale in the brewing books, but not IPA, which proves my point.

    What do I get?



Atis said...

    I have plenty of claims, but unfortunately none of them in English.

    Just one quick translation from a quote from a recent press release (quoted by a news site below) by one of the largest Latvian breweries (Royal Unibrew).

    http://www.financenet.lv/nozares/348110-alus_sacensibas_uzvarejis_kastanu_alus

    Lacpleša Chestnut beer is a traditional ale, brewed in accordance with methods used in Europe since medieval times. Ale, similarly to Pilsener, denotes name of the beer style. Ales for the first time were brewed in the UK, London, in the 17th century. During those times, the most popular was the pale ale. Nowadays ales are widely available in England, Belgium and the North America.

    Lacpleša Kastanu alus ir tradicionals eils, bruvets saskana ar metodem, kas Eiropa pastav kopš viduslaikiem. Eils, tapat ka lagera vai Pilzenes tipa alus, ir alus veida nosaukums. Pirmo reizi eila tipa alus bruvets Lielbritanija, Londona, 17.gadsimta. Taja laika popularakais ir bijis gaišais eils. Musdienas eila tipa alus ir loti izplatits Anglija, Belgija un Ziemelamerika.




mentaldental said...

    "The last sub-variety is the Imperial IPA, so named because the beer was originally produced for exportation to czarist Russia."
    http://www.suite101.com/content/whats-an-ipa-a26747

    And there was me thinking this was just a previously non-existent style made-up by American home brewers.

    That's a cracking article by the way! Yes I know you have already quoted it but I liked this one.





StuartP said...

    OK, here's the usual nonsence from Beer Advocate, but with an interesting new twist:-

    First brewed in England and exported for the British troops in India during the late 1700s. To withstand the voyage, IPA's were basically tweaked Pale Ales that were, in comparison, much more malty, boasted a higher alcohol content and were well-hopped, as hops are a natural preservative. Historians believe that an IPA was then watered down for the troops, while officers and the elite would savor the beer at full strength. The English IPA has a lower alcohol due to taxation over the decades. The leaner the brew the less amount of malt there is and less need for a strong hop presence which would easily put the brew out of balance. Some brewers have tried to recreate the origianl IPA with strengths close to 8-9% abv.

    Watering-down the ale for the troops, eh? That's a new one to me. I wonder if there is any evidence for that...



Scott said...

    Scottish Ales according to Garrett Oliver in his book, "The Brewmaster's Table," p.153.

    "From the earliest day, Scottish beer was different. The hop cannot grow in cold, blustery Scotland... Even when the Scots started to import hops, they did so grudgingly and at considerable expense. Not only were hops expensive, they were English; this did not exactly endear the hop to the Scots, who constantly sought to blunt arrogant England's expansionism. Scottish beer drinkers cared little for the taste of hops, and brewers used them sparingly, only for their preservative qualities... Scottish beer even fermented differently from English beer. Colder ambient temperatures led to slow, cool fermentations by ale yeast strains that could stand the northern chill. Long cool fermentations tend to produce malty beers with muted fruitiness, even when ale yeasts are used. Scottish beer took weeks rather than days to ferment, and then settled in for a long cold storage before being served. In this regard it resembled Bavarian lagers more than it did English ales."





Craig said...

    I, uh... woah, wow. There are so many.

    http://www.bigsiteofamazingfacts.com/why-did-the-british-invent-india-pale-ale-and-how-do-the-hops-in-india-pale-ale-help-preserve-the-beer

    Ron, The last sentence is going to make you cry.


"India pale ale was invented by George Hodgson, a brewer at the Bow Brewery in East London in the 1790s, who took his pale ale recipe, increased the hop content considerably, and raised the alcohol content by adding extra grain and sugar.

Hodgson also added dry hops to the casks at priming, when sugar is added to allow secondary fermentation, and conditioned the beer with more sugar than was typical for pale ales.

The high sugar priming rate probably helped keep the yeast alive during the voyage and resulted in a very bitter, alcoholic, and sparkling pale ale that could withstand the rigors of travel while having a reasonable shelf life in India.

With such large amounts of hops and alcohol, what did it taste like?

Hops are the most expensive ingredient in any beer and a modern brewery probably couldn’t brew a genuine nineteenth-century India pale ale economically.

With so many hops, a young IPA would hit the cheek cells like paint stripper. However, the long voyage and the pale ale futures market meant the beer usually spent 12 months aging. This turned the hop bittering from an aggressive taste to a fine bouquet, which some writers described as reminding them of a French white wine.

We have carried out much research on IPA. In the brews we made, especially those based on Edinburgh recipes of around 1840, the taste after a year was unlike anything currently on the market. It certainly wasn’t overpoweringly bitter.

The combination of hops and alcohol provided a very powerful antibacterial environment, but there was still much that could go wrong.

The ale was vented before the long voyage to prevent serious explosions during the crossing and this may have introduced bacteria. It was also not easy to sterilize the casks before filling them. However, it was a trade worth pursuing because of the huge volume of empty cargo ships returning to the colonies and the cost of carriage was very low.

Many brewers who exported porter, or Imperial stout, to Russia during the nineteenth century increased the beer’s life by boosting its hop and alcohol content.

These dark porters, brewed in England but popular with Russian royalty, were high in alcohol, sweet, and dense, and survived the journey from Britain to the Baltic and across Russia. They are still popular in the Baltic states, where they are still brewed. Samuel Smith’s of Yorkshire produces a fine example.

At the same time as IPAs were becoming popular, the first golden lagers of Plzen (known as pilsners) were spreading fast, making use of the new railways and liberal doses of Saaz hops.

Most IPAs tend to be bitters that are hoppier than the norm, although a handful of “historical IPAs” weighing in at 6 percent or more alcohol by volume, still less than the 10 percent plus of the originals, are brewed by such micro-breweries as Burton Bridge and Freeminer."







Gavin said...

    I haven't got the actual quote but Protz had a classic one in Beers of the World a few years back.

    Holt, Plant, and Deakin used to make a premium bitter called Entire. This beer is now being reproduced under the Old Swan, Ma Pardoes brand. In an issue of Beers of the World from a few years ago, Roger Protz claims that in the Midlands the word Entire refers not to Porter but to a type of strong pale Mild, his theory being based entirely on the existence of Pardoe's Entire, which is a bitter.




Gavin said...

    Finally, Entire (4.4%) is a strong amber mild, a Black Country speciality that is quite different to the 18th century London style known as Entire or Porter.




Matt said...

    One last entry for the Papazian Cup, it's brothers, Jason and Todd Alström, founders of BeerAdvocate, on altbier:

    "long before lagers Germanic brewers brewed ales, which have been crafted in Germany for at least 3,000 years. Not many specific styles of beer can be traced thousands of years, however Altbier is one of them. An ale at heart, "alt" is German for "old" and helps to reflect how far back this style has been around."

    http://beeradvocate.com/articles/260

    Where to start?

    The idea that altbier has existed unchanged for thousands of years. And the maddening, ahistorical insistence on fitting it into the American homebrewers' category of 'ales'. Their seeming ignorance that lagering is what makes an altbier makes me wonder if they have ever been to Düsseldorf and drunk it. If they ever saw it described as an 'obergäriges Lagerbier' their brains might just explode.




Rod said...

    During the 18th century, both Munich and Vienna were well-established brewing centers....... They differed, however, in that Vienna was brewing ales and Munich, its renowned bottom-fermented lagerbiers.

    Florian Kemp at allaboutbeer.com





Rod said...

    "Porter is said to have been popular with transportation workers of Central London, hence the name. Most traditional British brewing documentation from the 1700’s state that Porter was a blend of three different styles: an old ale (stale or soured), a new ale (brown or pale ale) and a weak one (mild ale), with various combinations of blending and staleness. The end result was also commonly known as "Entire Butt" or "Three Threads" and had a pleasing taste of neither new nor old. It was the first truly engineered beer........."


    Beer Advocate, beer styles section. There are many contenders for the prize to be found here.




JessKidden said...

    One of my recent favorites, from a Boston, MA, USA based website about beer and wine called "French Oak":

    "Lager is the German word for “storage” and the beer is named so as the beer is stored for at least three weeks before being served and is most often served chilled. For this reason and due to lagers’ colder and longer fermentation process, ales had long been more available and widely consumed than lagers. But in 1953, lagers became very popular due to a newly invented way to ferment lagers called “continuous fermentation”. The process allowed for the production of lager beer at a much faster pace and made possible the mass production of lager beer at a rate competitive with ales."

    http://frenchoaktv.com/beer/lagers/




Rod said...

    I've mentioned this in the original Protz Shield thread, but I now enter it as a formal contender -

    On beerpages.com it says that pilsner was first brewed in
    "the Czech village of Pilsen."

    Three mistakes in five words is going to take some beating, although I have to say that my personal favourite for sheer head-shaking "you-what-ness?" is Pete Brown's assertion that Hoegaarden is a Bitter............




Rod said...

    "Pale Ale is an American term for Ales; other countries use different names for Ales. For example England calls them Bitters, Germany Altbier and so on. Although Pale Ales are generally medium bodied with a light golden to light copper color, India Pale Ale, Amber Ale, and Red Ale fall into the Pale Ale category."

    "Stouts and Porters are generally very malty because they are made using roasted malts and barley. There are also other ingredients that are used like oatmeal, coffee, chocolate and milk. They are usually heavy bodied"

    "England is one of the few countries in the world where ales are more the rule than the exception. Also beer is still traditionally matured in caskets at the pubs, instead of at he brewery. Beer in England is normally served at cellar temperatures.

    Beers is eastern England generally contain more hops than other regions. Traditional styles of English beer are Bitter, Mild, Old Ale, Brown Ale, India Pale Ale, Porter and Stout."

    "When most of the United Kingdom weren’t using hops because of growing climates, Scotland imported hops extensively for their brews."

    "Pale lager does not have a noticeable amount of bitterness or aroma. This type of beer includes quite a few varieties, but the best know are the Helles and the Pilsner. It can be difficult to differentiate the two, but it becomes easier when one remembers that in a Helles, the hops flavors should dominate, while in a Pilsner, the malt should take precedence."

    Read more at Suite101: Types of Lager http://www.suite101.com/content/types-of-lager-a296566#ixzz18D4ydqDY

    You will have understood by now that this is a target-rich environment...........




Rod said...

    I promise this is the last, but it's a good one.....


    "was probably monks and nuns who discovered the importance of adding hops......
    Flavoring beer with hops was known as early as the 9th Century, however, because of the difficulty in determining the proper ratio of hops to other ingredients, using hops only gradually became an accepted practice...... Many countries soon adopted laws requiring the use of hops. In England, such laws led to riots and revolts because the English preferred naturally sweet ale to bitter beer."

    Read more at Suite101: The History of Beer - Dark Ages, Middle Ages & Discovery of Hops http://www.suite101.com/content/a-brief-history-of-beer-part-2-a250635#ixzz18D8QxAVW

    A lot of nonsense there I think




Barm said...

    I've seen Protz argue a couple of times that the word lager "may" be etymologically related to English larder. This insight is based on both word beginning with "la" and having something to do with cool places.






Stan Hieronymus said...

    "German brewer’s in the medieval period brewed beer in its most pure form. German beer purity law of 1516 prohibited use of any additives in beer. The only ingredients added in beer were malt (rice or barley), hops, yeast and water."

    - http://www.buzzle.com/articles/preservatives-in-beer.html

    (The word rice has since been removed, but was there as recently as Dec. 4. The original did not include the word "Reinheitsgebot," but that is there now.)





Yuri Katunin said...

    Ron!
    May I also particapate?
    That's great I think to get a prize: http://www.beer-pages.com/2009/11/brewdog-go-bonkers.html:
    "...it's not beer at all, as brewer's yeast cannot work beyond a strength of 12 or 13 degrees. "
    :-))
    Probably a live in paralell world. I could easely ferment up to 21% without any speciphic technics. Just yeasts... They do exist.
    Warm fermented regards to Roger!




Steve Hannigan said...

    This looks like a fine tale! Embellished with the statement that it was healthier for the fighting soldier.

    IPAs (India Pale Ales) were originally designed for export to the British Army out in India – the higher levels of hops and alcohol both acting as preservatives to keep the beer in top condition during the long hot sea voyage. IPA’s were developed to stop soldiers drinking the ridiculously strong local tipple – arrack, which, combined with infected water, was putting close to one third of the army out of action.
    Chimera will quench the thirst of even the most parched soldier! The Empire, and therefore civilisation, was built because of beers like this.

    http://www.downtonbrewery.com/en/our-beers/regular-beers/chimera-i-p-a/index.php





Rod said...

    I knew I'd soon be able to come up with a couple of contenders. How about -

    "Technically, Hoegaarden is a bitter rather than a lager - it's top-fermented. It's also a very old, traditional recipe."

    Or do you prefer -

    "In 1876, he [Adolphus Busch] discovered Pasteur, and found a great pilsner recipe in the Czech town of Budweis, and Budweiser beer was born." ?

    Both from Man Walks into a Pub by Pete Brown. Doubtless I can find plenty more where they came form....






Matt said...

    Here are a couple of recent words of wisdom from Protz.

    First, on the launch of Greene King's Very Special IPA:

    "The original IPA recipes used an abundance of malt and hops and the large quantities of pale malt provided sufficient natural sugar to produce the high alcohol content that characterises the beer.

    "Because the hop acts as an antiseptic and a preservative, the addition of vast quantities of hops added further protection for the quality of the ale during the long voyage to India."

    http://blogs.mirror.co.uk/festivals/2010/11/greene-king-ipa-is-very-very-s.html

    And second, on Budweiser Budvar's decision to sell unpasteurised lager in the UK:

    “We are now getting close to a real ale version of lager, how it was 100 years ago. We are tasting tradition and defending the traditional way of making lager beer.”

    http://www.thepublican.com/story.asp?sectioncode=7&storycode=68454&c=1

    Hmm, I'm pretty sure lager was being force-carbonated and pasteurised by 1910...





Ed said...

    Ben McFarland for saying before the invention of Pilsner Urquell in 1842 "all beer was dark, cloudy and more often than not a little lousy".

    Or should it be him saying "Before white-coated boffins with spectacles, clipboards, pipettes and brains the size of Luxembourg discovered pasteurization in 1860, all beer was made using spontaneous fermentation"?





The Beer Nut said...

    I nominate Kristy McCready of MolsonCoors for this one. On the subject of Grolsch, last Tuesday:
    "a beer brewed to the same recipe since 1615."

    Should corroborating evidence appear I will, of course, withdraw the nomination.






StuartP said...

    From 'beer-pages.com - all you need to know about beer'

    PALE ALE
    A name applied to a particular bottled-version of draught bitter, pale ale was first brewed in London in the mid- 18th century, but did not gain fame until Bass produced this style of beer at its Burton-on-Trent brewery, since when Burton has become synonymous with pale ale. This is because the Burton water contains gypsum, which precipitates the most ultra fine sediments suspended in a beer, providing a much paler shade of ale: hence Pale Ale, thus Burton Pale Ale. See also India Pale Ale.

    So, the creation of Pale Ale: nothing to do with the manufacture of Pale Malt, but all down to gypsum in the water (!) acting as finings. And it is only available in bottles.





Pete Brown said...


    Not directly beer related, but in his CAMRA IPA book, my favourite RPism is "India was first colonised by the British in 1782."

    Among the thousands of British people who lived in places like Surat, Madras, Calcutta and Bombay from 1608 onwards, this must have come as a big shock to Clive of India, who fought the Battle of Plassey in 1757, establishing British ownership of Bengal and shattering the power of the Mughal Empire.

    And unlike malt and hops arcana, that's something we all learned about at school...





Ryan said...

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FZFG5PKw504&feature=related
    If this were in writing, it quite possibly might win






Matt said...


    OK, here are my entries for the Papazian Cup, both involving the man himself:

    "Using my 5.5% alcohol by volume (abv) homebrew recipe for a Czech-American style “amber-Helles” floral hopped lager we ramped up the recipe to 8.3 % with uniquely American techniques and blends of international hops, malt and yeast."

    An "amber helles", seems like yet another "craft beer" style has been born thanks to American homebrewers. Wonder what the "uniquely American techniques" used in brewing it are?

    Followed by an "Imperial Helles Bock": "The beer is unique. It does not fit any particular style."

    http://www.examiner.com/beer-in-national/charlie-fred-and-ken-s-imperial-helles-bock-released-by-sierra-nevada-details-here





Oblivious said...

    Here are my two so far, complements of the BJCP

    Traditional Scottish session beers reflecting the indigenous ingredients (water, malt), with less hops than their English counterparts (due to the need to import them). Long, cool fermentations are traditionally used in Scottish brewing.

    Mild: May have evolved as one of the elements of early porters.






Rod said...

    Guess who, talking about Mild -

    "The name came from its low level of hop bitterness, not a lack of alcohol.....in the 18th century, drinkers started to turn against the extreme roastiness and bitterness of the porters and stouts that dominated the market.....I imagine that brewers drastically reduced the strength of mild following World War Two to save on duty. It didn't do the style any favours...."






Rod said...

    "BROWN ALE
    This is the bottled version of draught mild, thus the opposite number to pale ale (the bottled version of bitter), which is why a "brown and light" is the equivalent to a "mild and bitter" for the bottled beer drinker. Brown ale is dark brown in colour, slightly sweet to very sweet in flavour and often a touch stronger than it pale ale cousin. Despite its fame, Newcastle Brown is not a true brown ale, being much lighter in colour, less sweet and significantly stronger in alcohol"

    Quite a lot of nonsense there, at
    beer-pages.com






Pivní Filosof said...

    I have a couple of gems by Harry Sasón, a celebrity chef from Colombia.

    "In fact, beer and bread had the same origin: if you add more flour than water and let it ferment, you get bread; and if you add more water than flour and let it ferment, you get beer."

    "...based on their colour, beers can be divided in pale and dark, and the difference is that the latter are brewed at higher temperatures and with roasted barley and malt, which adds a creamier density and a more bitter taste"

    And my favourite.

    "...Lagers, a kind of pale beer of moderate flavour, very common in the US".





Matt said...

    Anyone think bitter and pale ale are synonyms for the same style of beer? Here's an American homebrewer to put us right:

    "Bitter, Best Bitter and English Pale Ale are the three styles of beer that make up...Light English Ale in the BJCP style guide... They all originated in England with the advent of lightly-kilned malt in the late 1700's... The BJCP style guide separates them based on starting gravity...English Bitter is the lowest-strength version of this beer. It is a session beer, with a starting gravity of 1.030 to 1.03. With an alcohol content of only about 3½%, you can start early on this one. The name bitter suggest a high hop level, but this is not necessarily the case. The name actually comes from a comparison to English Mild, a brown ale with only half of the bitterness...Best Bitter, also called Special Bitter, starts off with an original gravity of 1.039 to 1.045. The malt profile is usually much more apparent in these beers. The bitterness level is a bit higher than bitter, though there is considerable overlap. Fuller's London Pride represents this style, though it is considerably maltier than most examples...English Pale Ale is the strongest beer in the family. This beer is generally designated Extra Special Bitter when served on tap, or Pale Ale when served in bottles. Starting gravity ranges from 1.046 to 1.065. Both malt flavor and hop bitterness level considerably higher in this beer. Bass Ale is typical of this beer."

    http://www.picobrewery.com/askarchive/englishale.htm








Jeff Alworth said...

    This stands as one of the oddest press releases I've ever gotten, from Estrella Damm in Spain, on the subject of their beer, Indedit:

    “INEDIT was developed from the belief that there was a need for a beer that could complement a dining experience," said Ferran Adrià, elBulli Executive Chef.... INEDIT is a unique coupage of barley malt and wheat with spices which provide an intense and complex aroma.... With its delicate carbonation, INEDIT adapts to acidic, sweet and sour flavors. Its appearance is slightly cloudy, and INEDIT has a yeasty sensation with sweet spices, causing a creamy and fresh texture, delicate carbonic long aftertaste, and pleasant memory."






Wasn't that a lovely dinner of disininformation? Try not to get indigestion.

The winners will be announced soon. Before christmas, I promise.

Monday, 20 December 2010

Allsopp and St. Petersburg (part two)

I'd too much about Allsopp (or rather their predecessors) and their trade with Russia. So here's part two.

"The vast increase and importance of the trade with Russia is also noted by Messrs. Allsopp in the same letter as follows:—"With respect to the Quantity of Ale likely to go to St. Petersburg, it wd. be very considerable could the orders be compleated, but from various causes that is impossible. The other Ports have made great demands upon us this year, so that, though a great deal of Ale will be brew'd from this time to the 5th of April, yet we hope and believe Petersburg cannot be overcharged. Our orders for that place exceed 600 Hogsheads."

Here follows a letter from Mr. Benjamin Wilson, addressed to a St. Petersburg house, Oct. 23, 1775, quoted literally and in full, since it distinctly states the method in which the foreign trade was conducted.


"To Mr. John Daniel Newman and Co., Petersbg.
" Gentlemen,—We reed, in Course your much-esteemed Favor, dated the 28th July, and Contents noted. We confess ourselves concerned that some little Difficulty attending ye first Interpretation of yr. Letter has protracted in some degree the Dispatch of our Reply, and in consequence subjected us to the probable imputation of Inattention wch. we ever wish and shall endeavour to stand exempt from; but as that Inconvenience is in some Measure removed, any future letter we may have ye Pleasure to receive, we can be informed of with the greater Facility. To people who have the Credit of their own Manufacture and ye inseparable Interest of their Friends at Heart, we cannot but feel an accumulated Satisfaction at every additional Instance of our Ale proving fine and distinguishing itself, wch. in Justice to its Character we have ye happiness to say our Friends have universally confirmed. To ye several Queries of yr. Letter, we beg leave to acquaint you that tho' many merchants in St. Petersburg are supplied with Burton Ale from our House, yet there are many that we are not immediately connected with, their orders being principally transmitted thro' ye Houses of Hull and London, which may be called their Representatives, and from whom we receive the greatest share of our orders; but, as a foreign Connexion wd. be equally acceptable when satisfactorily established, we shd. consider it with equal Attention and Respect. The Price of Ale last Year at Burton, from ye extravagant Price of Grain, sold for 17d. per Gallon: what may be ye price for ye present Season is as yet undetermined, the value of wch. is generally regulated by the Average Cost of Grain, wch. so early in ye Season wd. be premature to say.

"You desire to know at what price we can undertake to ship you the Ale pr. Gallon, free on Board, which is a mode we are never accustomed to observe, as our Friends always pay us for ye ale 17d. at Burton, and defray the Consequent Expenses of Fret, and Shippg. themselves ; and as we ourselves wish to reap no Benefit therefrom, take this opportunity of subjoining for yr. own Satisfaction an acct. of the Fret, to Hull, and other Expenses, by way of specimen, on thirty Hhds. of Ale shipped the last Season, which, with very little or no Variation, may be proportioned for a larger or lesser qty.

Our Casks of 80 gall. Size we charge 22s. each; of 40 gall. 11s.,-both peculiar to Petersbg. Markett, and which being made of ye best Materials our Friends do chearfully agree to. Tho' ye price of Ale cannot be decisively fixed from ye Principle of wishing to charge you neither more nor less than ye common Price for Ale of Equal Quality, yet we doubt not you wd. readily consent to be put upon ye same Footing with those of our choicest Customers; and, to convince you that we wish to consider all with the same Degree of Advantage, do refer you to the House of Messrs. Coole and Watson, Mr. Seebeck, Mr. Jas. Jackson's, and others, for ye Faith of our assurance, who we doubt wd. give you ye needful Satisfaction on that Head. We need not observe that for ye Value of any Transaction of this Nature we are always guaranteed in a Foreign Connexion either upon Amsterdam or London, in some indubitable House, to be paid any Time in ye Months of June, July, or August, as is convenient fr. our friend, and that, if these Proposals shd. meet yr. Approbation, we shd. be glad to cultivate yr. correspondence, who are with ye greatest Sincerity and Respect, gent., yr. mo. obet. servts.,
"B. Wilson & Co."

"Noted breweries of Great Britain and Ireland, Vol. I" by Alfred Barnard, 1889, pages 123 - 125.
What a wonderful insight into the workings of 18th-century trade. I love the polite way the writer tells the customer he'll have to pay his own transport costs. 17d a gallon seems a pretty reasonable price for beer with an OG of 1100.

It's significant that the price of the beer depended on the grain price and, indirectly, the quality of the barley harvest. This is when beer was still brewed from local grain. In the 19th century, improved transport and large-scale agriculture in the USA and other regions reduced the dependency of brewers on supplies of British barley. Brewers would have been unable to produce the amount of beer they did in the second half of the 19th century without grain imports. Britain itself simply could not produce enough barley. As was demonstrated during WW I and WW II. During the Napoleonic Wars it was tax on malt, not a shortage of it, that caused brewers problems.

Those casks are weird sizes. I've never come across 40 and 80 barrel-sized ones before. As the letter says, these were specifically for the Russian market. I wonder why they were that size? Maybe it matched some Russian measure.

Sunday, 19 December 2010

Allsopp and St. Petersburg

Let's continue with the Allsopp theme. I've been rummaging in Barnard's "Noted Breweries of Great Britain and Ireland" again. It's such a handy book. How did I ever get by without it?

The title rather gives away the theme of this piece: the Baltic trade of Burton brewers. Which reminds of this gem of fact-garbling from my Protz Shield/Papazian Cup examples:

"Russian imperial stouts were first brewed in the 18th century by brewers in Burton, England to be shipped to the court of Russian Empress Catherine the Great. Catherine apparently became quite smitten by stouts during a visit to England and demanded some be sent back to her when she returned home; unfortunately the first few batches did not survive the long trip to Russia. Catherine demanded that the English find some way to get her beloved porter to her, and being empress, she got what she wanted. To accomplish this goal the Barclay Perkins brewery crafted a stout to survive the trek much sweeter and stronger than anything available in England at the time and a new style was born."
Beeriety, http://blog.beeriety.com/2010/02/25/style-profile-russian-imperial-stout/

It manages to confuse two completely different beer trades with Russia: Porter from London  and Burton Ale from, well, Burton. And the stuff about Stout having to be strong to survive the "long trip to Russia". The author needs to study geography and the economics of transport pre-railways. The trip from London or Hull to St. Petersburg was a piece of piss. It should also be remembered that standard-strength Porter made the much more demanding journey all the way to India.

Sorry for that distraction. I couldn't resist that little appetiser. On with the main course.

"Dr. Plott, in his Natural History, written two hundred years ago, refers to the peculiar "chemical or natural properties possessed by the Burton waters," from which, " by an art well known in this country, good ale is made, and in the management of which they have a knack of fineing it in three days to that degree that it shall not only be potable, but clear and palatable as one would desire any drinke of this kind to be." In 1630 the fame of the Burton ales had spread to the metropolis, they being sold at « ye Peacocke " in Gray's Inn Lane, at that period ; while, subsequently, according to the " Spectator," it was in considerable demand amongst the visitors at Vauxhall. Upon the opening up of the Trent navigation, by the Act of 1698, Burton ale, which on account of the previous difficulties attending land carriage, was very rare in London, soon began to find its way to the metropolis by sea; but at this time the sale was of a limited character, the inhabitants of London being supplied by local brewers. The chief benefit that accrued to Burton by the opening up of the Trent was that which arose from the northern trade, the Trent connecting Gainsborough with Hull, and Hull with the northern ports. In 1746, a considerable trade had been established in the Baltic, principally by Benjamin Wilson, the founder of the firm of Allsopp, the ale finding an especially ready sale at St. Petersburg. The Emperor of Russia, Peter the Great, and his Empress, Catherine, were extremely fond of Burton ale, which, in those days, was high coloured and sweet, of very great strength, and especially suited to the Russian palate. In course of time, the export trade in Burton beer had so increased that Benjamin Wilson was induced to devote to it his particular attention, which is evidenced by the books of account shown to us by Messrs. Allsopp. In 1748 the business was not a small one, as the entries in the books, ranging from that date to 1769, amply testify. Thus, in 1765, the account of Messrs. Blayden, of Hull, from October to March, was £373 9s. 10d. ; and that of Messrs. John and William Mornby, of Gainsborough, for the same period, was £288 5s. 10.5d.

In 1766, the account of Messrs. Samuel Watson and Sons, of Hull, was settled by £655 0s. 4d.; Messrs. George Storey and Co., £359 13s. 3d.; and Mr. Robert Wilberforce, £428 13s. 2d., which he paid in flax. From 1770 to 1790, a volume of correspondence exists which affords sufficient proof of the great extent of the business, and the large foreign connections of the house. The contents of this volume are exceedingly curious, as records of the transactions of an old firm. Part of the business, seldom, however, exceeding 25 per cent, was evidently conducted by barter ; and this in a description of produce necessary for the business, such as timber, staves, etc."

"Noted breweries of Great Britain and Ireland, Vol. I" by Alfred Barnard, 1889, pages 122 - 123.


Wasn't that just full of useful facts? Let's begin with the first paragraph. Which discusses the transformation in the fortunes of Burton brewers when they gained direct access to the sea. Making it possible to send their beer not just to London, but also across the Baltic. The water of Burton gave the beer favourable characteristics, such as dropping bight quickly.

We even get a description of the beer itself: "Burton ale, which, in those days, was high coloured and sweet, of very great strength, and especially suited to the Russian palate". Dark, sweet, full of booze. Sounds just like the sort of beer I would like. And about as unlike Pale Ale as you can get.

Bartering for barrel staves would make a lot of sense. As we've seen in an earlier post, Memel oak from the Baltic was the wood of preference for most coopers. And, assuming the barrels in which the beer was shipped were not returned, they'd be needing wood to make some new ones.

Saturday, 18 December 2010

Milling, mashing and boiling at Bass

Back to Bass. The brighter amongst you may have guessed what I'm up to. We're going to take a look at some of the most vital brewing processes: milling, mashing and boiling. Courtesy of Alfred Barnard, chronicler of Britain's late-Victorian brewing industry.

I'm so glad I've all four volumes of "The Noted Breweries of Great Britain and Ireland". It allows a glimpse inside all the great, and some not so great, breweries of the period. Not that I have the physical books. They are way too expensive, even for a booky spendthrift like me. I picked up a version on CD. At 25 euros, one of my best bargains ever.

But we're here to discuss Bass, not my book-buying adventures. Time for the big, long quote that will spare my typing fingers.

"He has a large staff of first, second brewers and juniors, under his control, and all the operations in his department are carried on with precision and regularity. Mr. W. O. Moody, one of his lieutenants, conducted us over the brewery, and first took us to the malt-rooms referred to, measuring 70 feet long by 27 feet broad, containing two mills, with a double set of rollers to which is attached, immediately above it, a screening machine divided into three trays or partitions, like one we saw in the Old Brewery, but omitted to describe. The first tray separates any odd bits of straw or wood that may have collected in the malt during its transit from the makings; the second separates the large grains from the smaller; whilst the last sieves the combings, which latter fall into a dust-chamber below, while the former drop through their respective rollers to be crushed. Progressing a short distance, we came to the No. 2 mill-room, not quite so large as the first, also containing a double-set of malt mills similarly fitted with screens, etc In both cases, the crushed malt falls into an elevator that lifts it to the screw connected with the hoppers over the mash tuns. The elevators here, as in all the other breweries of this firm, are enclosed in iron frames, and not timber as in some places. As we entered the adjoining room, our attention was given to seven inverted octagonal hoppers, which spring from the floor and cover the whole surface of the chamber; taking a peep inside from an elevation, we observed that each is divided into six outlets or funnels, to distribute the grist thoroughly over the bottom of the mash-tuns. To visit these, we followed our guide down the main staircase, which brought us to the mashing room as this noble gallery is called. It is 156 feet long and 24 feet broad, and contains seven mash tuns, with covers constructed of teak and oak, enclosing timber revolving rakes and sparging apparatus, and each tun is capable of mashing sixty quarters at one time.

We noticed that fire mains run through every part of this, and all the other buildings; they rest on iron brackets affixed to the walls, possessing at intervals of a few feet, stop-cocks for attaching the fire-hose, which is kept in a recess on every floor. Wishing to keep the whole process in view, and follow its course, we accompanied Mr. Moody across the bridge to the second mash tun stage, also on the first floor in the next block, not quite so large as the one wc had left, 114 feet long by 27 feet broad, containing five mash tuns with hoppers above exactly the same as the others. The floors, which are of slotted timber, are easily cleaned, and are constructed so as to give extra light to the floors beneath. We then recrossed the bridge and proceeded to the copper hearth, on a level with the third floor of the first building. Its length is 165 feet by 48 feet, and it is built up 42 feet from the ground on solid brick foundations. This construction is a marvel of strength and solidity ; both of which rendered necessary when one considers the enormous weight it has to bear and the amount of strain put on it by the action of boiling in the coppers. It contains three iron water coppers, dome-shaped, each capable of holding 300 barrels, and eleven wort coppers each of fifty barrels content. All are heated by large furnaces and the latter are constructed of copper. We passed down the long avenue which divides them, to see the process of hauling up the coal to this altitude. It is lifted in small trucks by very powerful hydraulic lifts, and the trucks are run to the doors of the furnaces. The floor above is of pierced metal plates, not only to give extra light, but to enable the workmen to communicate with each other during the various operations of boiling the worts and adding thereto the hops. We climbed a steep iron ladder to take a peep into the heads of these coppers, and see the brewers throw in the hops. At the moment they joined the boiling wort a most refreshing fragrance filled the place, and long before we left this part of the building it had increased our appetite to a wonderful degree. While perambulating this department, our attention was called to the water tanks in the roof of the malt hopper room to which we climbed. One tank contains Shobnall water, another cooling water, and a third water from the wells in the New Brewery yard. Here, also, we noticed that the roof of the copper hearth is also utilized, as in it are placed two receivers into which the wort is pumped direct from the under-back, running, from thence, by gravitation, into the coppers below."
"Noted breweries of Great Britain and Ireland, Vol. I" by Alfred Barnard, 1889, pages 71 - 73.

A sixty quarter mash tun, assuming a yield of around 85 lbs per quarter and a gravity of 1064, will produce around 220 barrels of beer. Which means the 300-barrel coppers were about the right size to provide the mashing liquor for one complete brew. At just 50 barrels, the wort coppers seem rather small. A mash would produce three or four worts of differing strengths. Assuming there would be about 250 barrels of wort pre-boil, that would fill five coppers. In the 1880's, Barclay Perkins used 4 coppers of around 320 barrels capacity to brew 1,000 barrels of beer. Based on that, you would expect Bass's coppers to have been around 75 barrels.

While we're on the topic of coppers, Barnard doesn't make it clear if they are closed or open. They do appear to be direct-fired, which is a bit of a surprise. By this time many breweries were using closed, dome-shaped, steam-heated coppers.

"Fire-coppers are built over a brick furnace; the lower end is pan-shaped. Half-way up it widens out slightly, thence to the top the sides are vertical or sloping. The old-fashioned coppers are open, but in many breweries they are closed, and the contents are boiled under a slight pressure. Some brewers prefer to boil pale ale worts in open coppers."
"The Brewing Industry" by Julian L. Baker, 1905, page 88.

I wonder if that was true? And if it was, I wonder what the reason might be for boiling Pale Ale in an open copper?

Now on to the mash tuns. From the description of the funnels to distribute the grist evenly over the mash tun floor, it doesn't sound like they were using a Steele's masher (a sort of screw that mixes hot water and grain together as they enter the mash tun). Timber rakes? Never heard of that before. I thought internal mashing machines were always made of metal.

And finally the water. The fact that they used different water for brewing and cooling. I can imagine that the very hard water used to brew might not have been all that suitable for other purposes. The supply of brewing water was, I suppose, also limited.

Friday, 17 December 2010

Allsopp in the 1880's

Just to vary things up a bit, let's look at another Burton brewer. Allsopp.

At one time they were serious rivals to bass, both in the Indian and domestic markets. But, when like many other large brewers they became a limited company towards the end of the 19th century, things started to go wrong. They over-invested in tied houses, paying over the odds for many in their haste to acquire them. The company ended up in the hands of the receivers, but managed to struggle on until the 1930's, when they merged with Ind Coope. The combined company, Ind Coope and Allsopp, later joined with Tetley's and Ansells to form Allied Breweries, one of the Big Six of the 1970's.

End of history lesson and time for the text:

"Returning now to the history of the firm—in 1822 high import duties were imposed by the Russian Government upon English ales, and this fact led for a time to the almost total suspension of the trade which Messrs. Allsopp and Son had for so long carried on with Russia. The results were not, however, altogether disastrous, for the Burton firm now saw the necessity of pushing their home trade, and the ales which had hitherto been better known in St. Petersburg than in London came into considerable demand in the southern portions of this country.

An eye-witness of a banquet given by Peter the Great has left the following description :—" As soon as you sit down you are expected to drink a cup of brandy, after which they ply you with great glasses of adulterated Tokay and other vitiated wines, and between whiles with a bumper of the strongest English beer." Burton ales then were of a very different character to the excellent bitter of to-day ; Dyche spoke as to their strength, and they were so rich and luscious that if a little was spilled on a table the glass would stick to it.

At this time a brewer named Hodgson had the whole of the Indian export trade, but Messrs. Allsopp & Son, at the suggestion of a Mr. Majoribanks, brewed and exported ale similar to Hodgson's. Their venture met with marked success, and for many years the firm held the chief place among the exporters of Indian Pale Ale. The first Burton specimen of that beverage, many thousand hogsheads of which are now brewed annually, was compounded by Job Goodhead, Mr. Allsopp's veteran maltster, in a tea-pot.

Space forbids a long account of Mr. S. Allsopp's life. To his endeavours was chiefly due the bringing of the Derby and Birmingham railway system close to Burton. In both public and private life Mr. Allsopp was charitable to a fault, and greatly beloved. He died in 1838, and was succeeded by his two sons, Charles James and Henry. The latter, so long the head of the firm, is too well known to need mention here. He it was who took a leading part in refuting certain mischievous charges, which were to the effect that the Burton brewers used noxious materials in the manufacture of their bitter beer. He represented Worcestershire from 1874 to 1880, and in 1880 was created a Baronet. In the early part of 1886 he had the honour of being raised to the peerage under the title of Lord Hindlip of Hindlip and Alsop-en-le-Dale, having retired from the firm for some years in favour of his three sons, the Hon. Charles, George and Percy Allsopp.

A word now as to the breweries, which rank among the best and most perfect of their kind. They are three in number, and are connected together, and with the maltings, cooperages, &c., by about ten miles of railway.

The New Brewery is an immense structure, no single building being in existence which has a greater brewing capacity. The union room is of very fine proportions, being 375 feet in length and 105 in breadth. It contains 1,424 unions, which can cleanse 230,688 gallons at onetime. The union rooms, taken altogether, contain about 4,500 unions, each with a capacity of 695 gallons.

Next to the New Brewery comes the Old Brewery, and lastly the Model Brewery, which seems a mere toy compared with the others. It is used chiefly for experiments, and for occasional brews of stout and porter. The firm also possesses extensive maltings, and, it is almost needless to say, large cooperages, stables, &c.

A feature in the conduct of Messrs. Allsopp & Sons' business is the consideration shown to the employees, who, without counting clerks and the office staff, number 1,600. For their benefit the firm maintains a cricket ground, bowling green, a sick and funeral club, and a library managed by a scripture reader, who also visits the men and their families. Here and there about the breweries and maltings may be seen tottering old men, who seem out of place among so much life and bustle. These are the pensioners, who work as much or as little as they like. We believe that Messrs. AIlsopp and Sons rank third among the brewing firms of the United Kingdom, and the extent of their business may be inferred from the simple fact that they have an annual expenditure of £1,400 to £1,500 in postage stamps alone. In the busy periods of the year upwards of 20,000 casks pass weekly through their racking rooms. It would be presumption to attempt to criticise the malt liquor produced by this firm or, indeed, that of any of our leading brewers."
"The curiosities of ale & beer" by John Bickerdyke, 1886 , pages 336 - 338.

Nice that Bickerdyke confirms the difference between Burton Ale and Pale Ale. The former was thick and syrupy. A Strong Ale, not a Pale Ale. Those bashes of Peter the Great sound, well, great. Just my cup of tea. Though I guess that was probably one liquid that didn't get served.

4,500 unions. That must have been quite a sight. And a considerable investment. Notice that Bickerdyke says they were used for cleansing, not fermentation. An important distinction, that.

Any idea what a "scripture reader" might be? Some sort of lay preacher, perhaps?