Let's Brew - 1837 Combe Double Brown Stout

This comes from a tricky brewing record which is miscatalogued as being from Reid. I'm pretty sure that it's actually from Combe. But I could be wrong.

A stronger Stout was also brewed by Combe. Called, rather unimaginatively, Double Stout. Very similar in strength to that of its London rivals.

Much the same grist as Brown Stout. Just the tiniest bit more black malt. Along with the higher gravity, it makes for a beer that’s quite a bit darker.

The first two mashes were very like those for Brown Stout. While the third was a little hotter. At least the strike temperature was. Because of the small volume of water, however, the tap heat was lower.

Mash number	barrels	strike heat	time (mins)	tap heat	gravity
1	190	160º F	90	143º F	1100.6
2	100	182º F	50	156º F	1075.1
3	40	174º F	45	152.5º F

It’s not that crazily hopped. In terms of lbs per barrel, it’s almost exactly the same as Brown Stout. Two lots of English hops: East Kent from 1837 and Mid-Kent from 1836.

Vat 10 was used this time. Where it would have sat for probably a year. 

1837 Combe Double Brown Stout
pale malt	15.50 lb	77.11%
brown malt	3.75 lb	18.66%
black malt	0.85 lb	4.23%
Goldings 90 min	3.00 oz
Goldings 60 min	3.00 oz
Goldings 30 min	3.00 oz
Goldings dry hops	0.75 oz
OG	1084
FG	1026
ABV	7.67
Apparent attenuation	69.05%
IBU	91
SRM	36
Mash at	152º F
Sparge at	168º F
Boil time	90 minutes
pitching temp	61º F
Yeast	Wyeast 1099 Whitbread Ale

 

This is one of the 277 recipes in my new book on London Stout. Get your copy now!

Let's Brew Wednesday - 1837 Combe Brown Stout

At least, that’s who I think the brewing book belonged to. In the archive, it’s listed as the earliest Reid book. Except, it’s in the wrong format. And the beer names don't match

Why do I think it’s from Combe? Well, it was in a Watney archive. And Combe was part of that group.

Also, the amount being brewed. The largest batches were over 400 barrels. I estimate that they were brewing somewhere around 100,000 barrels a year. There weren’t many brewers producing that much in the 1830s: Barclay Perkins, Whitbread, Truman, Reid and Combe.  I know what the records from the first four look like. By process of elimination, it must be Combe. Prove me wrong.

There’s quite a lot of similarities between the Single Stouts from different London breweries. Combe’s Brown Stout is generally quite like 1845 Reid Single Stout and Whitbread Stout.

Though the grists are a little different. Combe’s has about 50% more brown malt, but around the same amount of black malt. Leaving it a little darker than its rivals.

Combe provide plenty of details about the mashing process. Which is nice of them. They went for just three mashes, starting off, like Whitbread with quite a cool initial infusion. Followed by quite a warm mash and finishing with a sparge-like temperature.

Mash number	barrels	strike heat	time (mins)	tap heat	gravity
1	213	160º F	90	142º F	1106.5
2	113	182º F	50	158º F	1084.2
3	155	168º F	40	158º F	1051.4

 With 14 lbs per quarter (336 lbs) of malt, the hopping was pretty intense. As you can see from the (calculated) 95 IBU.

Fairly fresh East Kent hops from the 1836 and 1837 season were employed.

I know this was aged because it notes in the log that it went into vat no. 8. Six months or so would be my guess. 

1837 Combe Brown Stout
pale malt	13.75 lb	77.82%
brown malt	3.25 lb	18.39%
black malt	0.67 lb	3.79%
Goldings 75 min	3.00 oz
Goldings 60 min	3.00 oz
Goldings 30 min	3.00 oz
Goldings dry hops	0.50 oz
OG	1074
FG	1020
ABV	7.14
Apparent attenuation	72.97%
IBU	95
SRM	31
Mash at	152º F
Sparge at	168º F
Boil time	75 minutes
pitching temp	64º F
Yeast	Wyeast 1099 Whitbread Ale

Bottled Imperial Stout sold in Scotland 1880 - 1889

Here's the second part of my look at Imperial Stout  in the 1880s. But, this time, specifically ones on sale in  Scotland. All details have been taken from advertisements in Scottish newspapers. The British Newspaper Archive is such a useful resource.

This bunch is even more dominated by London brewers. Only one is definitely from elsewhere: Guinness. Plus one whose origin in uncertain, Yule. That being the name of the retailer who was presumably selling a brewer's Imperial Stout under their own name.

I was interested to see Reid popping up as well as their later partners Combe. It looks as if Reid had pulled out of the Scottish market - or at least stopped advertising - by 1900. I wonder why that was.

Based on the prices, there's a variation in strength here, too. The only ones which look too be the full Imperial strength are those selling for 2s 9d and 3s per reputed pint. Which equates to  4.1d and 4.75d per imperial pint. Those costing 2s 2d and 2s 3d (3.25d and 3.375d per Imperial pint couldn't have an OG of 1075º-1080º. Not quite as weak as some of the draught versions, but still well off Imperial Stout strength and more like a Double Stout.

I'm pretty sure that Guinness didn't brew a Stout stronger than Extra Stout or Foreign Extra Stout, both of which had an OG of 1075º. Which fits in neatly with the price of 2.25d per reputed pint. I can't remember seeing Guinness Extra Stout sold as Imperial Stout in England. I wonder why it was in Scotland?

Don't get the impression no-one in Scotland was brewing the style. I just couldn't find any adverts which included prices. For example, Devanha of Aberdeen advertised their own Imperial Stout.

Bottled Imperial Stout sold in Scotland 1880 - 1889
year	Brewery	Place	beer	price (per doz)	size
1880	Reid	London	Imperial Stout	6s	reputed quart
1880	Reid	London	Imperial Stout	3s	reputed pint
1880	Truman	London	XXX or Imperial Stout	6s	reputed quart
1880	Truman	London	XXX or Imperial Stout	3s	reputed pint
1883	Barclay Perkins	London	Imperial London Stout	2s 2d	reputed pint
1883	Combe	London	Imperial London Stout	2s 2d	reputed pint
1885	Barclay Perkins	London	Imperial Stout	2s 9d	reputed pint
1885	Guinness	Dublin	Imperial Stout	2s 3d	reputed pint
1885	Truman	London	Imperial Stout	2s 9d	reputed pint
1885	Unknown	London	Imperial Stout	3s	reputed pint
1886	Combe	London	Imperial or XXX Stout	2s 9d	reputed pint
1886	Unknown	London	Imperial XXX London Stout	2s 6d	reputed pint
1888	Reid	London	Imperial Stout	5s	bottle
1888	Reid	London	Imperial Stout	2s 7d	half bottle
1888	Yule	??	Imperial Stout	2s 2d	reputed pint
1889	A. Gordon & Co.	London	Imperial Stout	4s 6d	pint
Sources:
Elgin Courant, and Morayshire Advertiser - Friday 06 February 1880, page 1.
Dundee Weekly News - Saturday 22 December 1883, page 8.
East of Fife Record - Friday 25 September 1885, page 1.
Stirling Observer - Thursday 24 December 1885, page 1.
East of Fife Record - Friday 25 September 1885, page 1.
East of Fife Record - Friday 20 July 1883, page 1.
East of Fife Record - Friday 12 November 1886 page 1.
Dundee Courier - Tuesday 12 January 1886, page 1.
Leith Burghs Pilot - Saturday 01 December 1888, page 1.
Aberdeen Evening Express - Thursday 08 March 1888, page 1.

 

Imperial Stout in Scotland in the 19th century

I'm going to drag this out for much, much longer. Unless I get bored, of course. Not much sign of that yet.

Dipping my toes into the shallow end of the 19th century, much the same Imperial Stouts were knocking around Scotland.  Which means Combe and Barclay Perkins.

COMBE & COY.'S LONDON STOUTS.
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED BY THE MEDICAL FACULTY.
IMPERIAL STOUT    Yellow Label.
DOUBLE    Do.    Green Do.
INVALID Do.    Red Do.
A TRIAL SOLICITED. ONCE TRIED, ALWAYS PREFERRED
TO BE HAD, IN SPLENDID CONDITION, FROM
A. JACK. Grocer and Wine Merchant, 16 HIGH STREET; DINGWALL.
North Star and Farmers' Chronicle - Thursday 31 August 1899 , page 7.

Combe being well established as a Stout brand in Scotland while still an independent brewery explains why Watney persisted with the brand well into the 20th century.

Barclay Perkins likewise had more than just their Imperial Stout on offer:

ELFERT'S. BARCLAY, PERKINS’ LONDON IMPERIAL STOUT, in fine condition, 2s 3d doz, pints. BARCLAY, PERKINS’ BROWN STOUT, 1s 9d per doz. pints.
Aberdeen Press and Journal - Friday 03 April 1891, page 2.

As mentioned in a previous post, at 2.25d per bottle, those have to be reputed pints rather than Imperial pints.

The same applies to this advert: 

	{BASS ALE.
	{ALLSOPP'S ALE.
2/3 per dozen	{BARCLAY PERKINS' IMPERIAL STOUT.
	{COMBE'S STOUT.
	{GLENLIVET No. 1 ALE.
	{ALLSOPP’S STOUT.
1/9 per dozen	{BARCLAY PERKINS' BROWN STOUT
	{YOUNGERS TABLE BEER (Quarts).

These are Bottled on the Premises, and are Guaranteed PURE and in Sparkling Condition.
LEITH & CO., 212 GALLOWGATE, ABERDEEN.
Aberdeen Press and Journal - Tuesday 12 July 1898, page 1.

At least one Scottish brewery was in the Imperial Stout business:

THE CASTLE BREWERY, MARYHILL, GLASGOW.
The Celebrated "CASTLE" PALE ALES sad IMPERIAL STOUT always in Splendid Condition.
G. & J. MACLACHLAN, Town Office - 26 and 27 ST. ENOCH SQUARE GLASGOW.
Hamilton Herald and Lanarkshire Weekly News - Friday 27 May 1898, page 2.

Finally, another English Imperial Stout. And a rather odd Malt Wine:

COLEMAN'S CROWN IMPERIAL INVALID STOUT
Is a specifically brewed INVALID STOUT from Malt and Hops of the finest quality, and will be found to invigorate the system without leaving any sign of heaviness  dulness behind after drinking as is the case of most Stouts. 

Important unsolicited Testimonial from DR. A. BALFOUR.
29, Abercorn Terrace, Portobello,
April 2nd, 1890.
Gentlemen.- I beg to thank you sincerely for your kind gift of "Invalid Stout," sent to me through Mr. Carmicheal. I have already found it beneficial to my wife, who is just now convalescent from a long illness, and I will recommend it to my patients in suitable cases.
I am, Gentlemen, Yours very truly,
ANDREW BALFOUR, MD.

Recommended by the Medical Faculty as being the most nourishing Stout obtainable. 

Sold in Champagne Pint Bottles at 2/9 per dozen. Bottles charged, but allowed for when returned. 

Sole Proprietors:

COLEMAN & CO., LIMITED, 1 , NORWICH & LONDON. 

We are also Sole Proprietor of the Celebrated COLEMAN'S EXTRACT OF MEAT & MALT WINE.
Montrose, Arbroath and Brechin review; and Forfar and Kincardineshire advertiser. - Friday 20 March 1891, page 8.

A few pints of Imperial Stout tend to leave me feeling rather dull. Maybe the meaty malt wine would help liven me up. The Victorians did like to put meat into alcoholic drinks, the weird buggers. Given all the weird shit being thrown into beer nowadays, I'm surprised no-one has started adding meat.

Yet more Imperial Stout in Scotland

Continuing to move back in time, we're now before WW I. I see now why Watney was using the Combe brand for Stout in Scotland in the 1920s.

It's simply historical. Combe had clearly established a trade in Stout north of the border before the merger with Watney and Reid. As this advert from 1900 reveals:

COMBE & COY.'S LONDON STOUTS.
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED BY THE MEDICAL FACULTY.
IMPERIAL STOUT    Yellow Label.
DOUBLE    Do.    Green Do.
INVALID Do.    Red Do.
A TRIAL SOLICITED. ONCE TRIED, ALWAYS PREFERRED
TO BE HAD, IN SPLENDID CONDITION, FROM
A. JACK. Grocer and Wine Merchant, 16 HIGH STREET; DINGWALL.
North Star and Farmers' Chronicle - Thursday 13 December 1900, page 7.

Note that, at this point, Imperial Stout was Yellow Label and Invalid Stout Red Label. It looks like they changed the label colours to fit in with Barclay Perkins.

Another advert reveals the prices for various beers, including Barclay Perkins Imperial Stout.

BARCLAY PERKINS & CO.’s IMPERIAL STOUT, 2/6 per doz.
ALLSOPP’S INVALID STOUT,    1/9 per doz.
TENNENTS LAGER BEER,    2/6 per doz.
BASS & CO.’S PALE ALE,    2/3 per doz.
PRESTONPANS BEER,    1/2 per doz, pints.
„    ,,        2/3 per doz. quarts.
M‘EWAN’S THREE GUINEA ALE,    1/2 per doz. pints.
„    „    ,    2/3 per doz qts.
SCOTCH PORTER,     2/- per doz. quarts.
JEFFREY’S SUPERIOR TABLE BEER,     1/6 per doz. quarts.
WILLIAM BURNS,
42 DUNNIKIER ROAD, KIBKCALDY.
Fife Free Press, & Kirkcaldy Guardian - Saturday 31 August 1907.

Unfortunately, no bottle size is specified. It's obviously not an Imperial pint. It works out to 2.5d per pint. To put this into context, a pint of draught Mild cost 2d at the time. The ones where a size of a pint is mentioned also seem too cheap. I think I have an explanation, though.

First, let's look at another advert.

MY PRICES.
Bass & Co.’s Pale Ale    2.5d per Pint.
„    „ No. 1 Ale    3d per Pint
Barclay Perkins' Imperial Stout,    2.75d per Pint
Lochside Pale Ale,    2d per Pint.
North Port Pale Ale,    2d per Pint.
Lager Beer    2.5d per Pint.
Table Beer (Bitter or Sweet), 2.25d per Quart Bottle.
All in Fine Condition.
Fine Old Scotoh Whisky, 3s and 3s 6d per Bottle.
Grand Value in Teas, 1s 6d, 1s 8d, ls 10d, and 2s per Lb.
ALL GROCERIES OF BEST QUALITY AT KEEN PRICES.
ALEXANDER M'LEAN,
25 MURRAY STREET.
Prompt and Careful Attention to all Orders.
Montrose, Arbroath and Brechin review; and Forfar and Kincardineshire advertiser. - Friday 11 February 1910, page 4.

Here a bottle size is specified, and it's a pint. But 2.75d is way too cheap. Simple explanation: it's not an Imperial pint, but a reputed pint. Which is two thirds of an Imperial pint. Making the price for a full pint 4.125d, which does sound about right. If you remember the last Scottish price list I posted, that specified reputed pints.

Though, as it's cheaper than Bass No. 1, which had an OG over 1100º, the implication is that it's weaker. Again, I'm pretty sure I have an explanation.

Remember that I mentioned I didn't have any Barclay's Imperial Stout brewing logs from this period? Well, they aren't the only source of information in the archives. There are also documents called "Gyle Summaries". They list each brew, giving barrels brewed and the costs. The column for OG mostly isn't filled in. But, as both bulk and standard barrels are listed, it's easy to work out the gravity.

I'd assumed That the two version of IBS was a post-WW I thing. It wasn't. The Gyle Summaries list both IBS and IBS ex. At 1100º and 1108º, respectively. Not a huge difference, really. It makes you wonder why they bothered.

Imperial Stout in Scotland again

We're between the wars now. Sorry if it's all Imperial Stout. You know what I'm like when I get started on a topic.

It seems that Barclay Perkins wasn't the only London brewery flogging Imperial Stout in Scotland. Not even the only one with a Red Label Stout.

I say brewery. Brand, would be more accurate. The Combe brewery closed almost immediately after the formation of Watney, Combe, Reid in 1899. The same fate befell Reid's plant. What's odd, is that in London the Combe name was only used for Brown Ale. Their Stouts were branded as Reid.

Combe's Stout might have been called Red Label, but was it really comparable to the Barclay Perkins beer? After all, it's also billed as "Nourishing Stout" which could mean something pretty weak.

 These minimum prices agreed by the publicans of Aberdeen suggest that they were of a similar strength:

I.—SALES BY LICENSED GROCERS AND OTHERS FOR CONSUMPTION OFF THE PREMISES.
	Per Dozen Reputed Pints.	Per Dozen Imperial Half Pints.	Per Dozen Splits.
Bass. Allsopp and Worthington Beers	7/-	6/-	4/6d
No. 1 Bass	15/-	-	7/6d
No. 2 Bass	-	-	7/-
Barclay Perkins, Combe’s and Guinness' Stout	8/-	—	5/-
Source:
Aberdeen Press and Journal - Thursday 17 September 1931, page 1.

 

II.— SALES FOR PUBLIC BARS ON CONSUMPTION, i.e., IN PUBLIC BARS.
	Per Reputed Pint.	Per Imperial Half Pint.	Splits.
Bass, Allsopp and Worthington Beers	8.5d	6.5d	5.5d
Bass No. 1	1/3d	-	9d
Bass No. 2	-	-	7d
Barclay Perkins & Combe's Imperial Red Label Stout	9d	-	5.5d
Brown Stout and Guinness Stout	8.5d	—	5.5d
Draught Beer	7d per pint; 3.5d per half pint
Source:
Aberdeen Press and Journal - Thursday 17 September 1931, page 1.

As the two cost the same, it's safe to assume that they were of roughly similar strength. Also, a bit stronger than Bass Pale Ale. But nowhere near as strong as Bass No. 1, which was a round the same gravity as the the export version of Barclay Perkins Imperial Stout.

 

1898 - a big year for Watney

Because that's when they orchestrated the first big merger in UK brewing. When they clubbed together with two other established London breweries to form Watney, Combe Reid.

But they were busy with other deals, too. Like taking over the Mortlake brewery, their final home.

"Messrs. Phillips, More, and Co., Limited, Mortlake Brewery, S.W., have completed the amalgamation of their company with that of Messrs. Watney and Co., Limited, Pimlico, and they trade now entirely under the style of Watney and Co., Limited. The business is conducted, however, in all respects precisely in the same manner, and under the same management, as hitherto."
"The Brewers' Journal, 1898", page 134.

The new merged company was enormous, with a combined output of over 1 million barrels a year. And a huge amount of share capital:

"Watney, Combe, Reid and Co., Limited — Registered, with a capital £9,000,000 in £1 shares (2,500,000 first preference and 6,500,000 ordinary), to adopt and carry into efiect three several agreements made by this company with Watney and Co., Limited, Combe and Co., Limited (and the liquidators thereof), and with Reid's Brewery Co., Limited (and its liquidators), for the acquisition of the businesses and undertakings, assets and liabilities, &c, of the said companies, and to develop and extend the same. The first directors — of whom there shall be not less than nine nor more than 15 — are Messrs. H. C. O. Bonsor, V. J. Watney, C. Combe, A. M. Wigram, C. J. Phillips, C. Watney, R. Combe, C. H. Babington, C. H. Combe, H. E. Phillips, J. A. Combe, 0. P. Serocold, E. M. Wigram, and P. Combe. Qualification, £8,000. Remuneration, £22,500 per annum, divisible. Registered office: Stag Brewery, Pimlico."
"The Brewers' Journal, 1898", page 536.

To put that into context, the same year Tetley was floated with a share capital of £1 million and Charrington, one of the largest breweries in London, with £3,950,000 capital.

Though there were still a few formalities, like vacuuming up all the stock of the three constituent companies and converting into stock in the new company:

"Watney, Combe, Reid and Company, Limited.
The statutory meeting was held at the Stag Brewery, Pimlico, on the 10th inst. Mr. H. Cosmo Bonsor, M.P., who presided, observed that nearly all the stockholders of the three companies which had recently been amalgamated had assented to the change and had converted their various stocks into the stock of the new company. In regard to the debentures, about 8 per cent. in money value had not yet been converted, but in view of the fact that a considerable quantity of the stock was held by trustees and others, an that a great deal of it was in joint names, he thought that the terms ofi'cred had been sufficiently liberal to bring in a large body of stockholders. In regard to the conversion of the old preference stocks of the companies the amount unconverted was so small that he could not place it in the form of percentage, but there were under 20 stockholders who had not as yet converted, and some of those had not given their assent owing to absence from England and other causes. This absence, of course, prevented these stockholders from completing their transfer. However, the directors could say that practically the whole of the preference shares of the old companies had been converted into the shares of the new company. The solicitors to the company had informed him that the application for a quotation and settlement on the Stock Exchange had been before the officials, and the directors daily expected to hear that both had been granted by the committee. The business, so far as the directors were aware, was doing as well as they could possibly expect."
"The Brewers' Journal, 1898", page 763.

Then came the inevitable closure of one of the three breweries:

"The Brewing operations of the amalgamated company of Watney, Combe, and Reid, Limited, will, in future, conducted, we understand, at Pimlico and Long Acre. We learn that it has been decided to close Messrs. Reid's establishment, or, at any rate, not to use it as a brewery, the other establishments being sufficient to meet the demands of the company's trade."
"The Brewers' Journal, 1898", page 820.

Combe's Long Acre brewery didn't remain in operation much longer. Presumably because Watney's two breweries in Pimlico and Mortlake had sufficient capacity. However, Watney continued to brand some beers Combe or Reid for decades.

Prices of Beer and Stout in Aberdeen

I just couldn't resist this article. It combined three of my obsessions: Scotland, WW I and bottled beer. There are even mentions of Barclay Perkins and Lager. It's as if they'd written it especially for me.

First a bit of context. Look at the date: April 1917. April is traditionally buget month in the UK. 1917 was the year the Germans began their unrestricted U-Boot campaign which initially had a big impact on world trade and Britain's food supplies. The government's reaction was to limit beer production. Which prompted brewers to raise their prices. Happy days.

"PRICES OF BEER AND STOUT IN ABERDEEN.
SUBSTANTIAL INCREASES.
A meeting of the directors of the Aberdeen Excise Licenceholders' Association was held yesterday in the office of the secretary, Mr George Mackenzie (of Messrs Mackenzie and Wilson advocates, 77 Crown Street). Mr G. M Thomson presided. The directors had under consideration the advanced prices to be charged for beer and stout for both "on" and "off" consumption, in view the increased prices now charged by brewers and bottlers.

The meeting unanimously agreed that minimum prices should be charged in accordance with the following list:—

Sales for "on" consumption— (in hotels and public-houses):

	Reputed Pint.	Splits.
Bass, Allsopp, and Worthington beers	7d	4d
No. 1. Bass	9d	5d
Barclay, Perkins, and Co.'s Imperial stout	9d	6d
Do. Brown stout	7d	4.5d
Combe's Imperial stout	9d	6d
Do. Brown stout	7d	4.5d
Do. Oatmeal stout and porter	6d	4d
Guinness' stout	8d	5d
Lager beer	6d	-
Scotch beer and stouts	5d	3.5d
Draught beer and stout—per pint	7d
Do. per schooner — according to size of glass	4.5d and 5d
Do. per glass	3.5d
Table beer — per quart	6d
Do. per pint	4d

Sales by licensed grocers and others for consumption "off" the premises:—

	Per doz. Reputed Pints.	Per doz. Splits.
Bass, Allsopp, and Worthingrton beers	6/-	3/9
No. 1. Bass	8/-	5/9
Barclay, Perkins, and Co.'s Imperial stout	8/6	6/9
Do. Brown stout	6/6	4/-
Combe's Imperial stout	8/6	5/9
Do. Brown stout	6/6	4/-
Do. Oatmeal stout and porter	5/6	3/6
Guinness' stout	7/-	4/6
Scotch pale ale	4/6	3/3
Scotch stouts	4/6	3/3
Table beer and stout—quarts, per dozen	4/6
Do. Reputed pints — per dozen	3/-
Lager—reputed pints — per dozen	5/6

The new prices, which represent an increase about 2d par bottle in most cases, will come into operation on Monday first. Licenceholders are now entitled receive only a third of their former supplies of ale and stout, based on their quarterly supplies for the year from 1st April, 1915, to 3lst March, 1916. As the supplies have been so much reduced, it was pointed out at the meeting, prices must naturally rise according to supply and demand.

COUNTY ASSOCIATION.
A meeting of the Executive Committee of the Aberdeenshire and Kincardineshire Licenseholders Association was also held the office of Messrs Mackenzie and Wilson — Mr.G. A. Wilson, advocate, secretary. Provost Hay, Alford, presided. The following prices were fixed for whisky, etc.; _

Off sales.
	Per nip	Per noggin.	Per glass.	Per. bottle.
Ordinary whisky	4d	6d	8d	6/-
Special and proprietary whisky	5d	-	10d	7/-
Rum and gin	4d	6d	8d	7/6
Brandy (ordinary)	6d	-	1/-	7/6

The prices fixed for beer and stout were the same those agreed upon at the meeting of the city licenceholders, except that for Scotch

beers and stouts the charge for on-consumption will be 6d per pint, and that in Kincardineshire the price per dozen quarts of table beer will be 5s 6d.

GLASGOW LIQUOR PRICES.
The Glasgow Licensed Trade Defence Association yesterday adopted new scale of charges for liquor owing the restriction of supplies enforced by the Food Controller.

Spirits will be raised from 1s 4d to 1s 6d per gill; draught beer and stout from 5d to 8d per pint; bottled beer and stout from 5d to 7d and large bottles from 6d to 8d. There is no change in brandy and wines. The new prices come into force on Monday."
Aberdeen Journal - Friday 06 April 1917, page 2.

The important thing to remember is that this is for Aberdeen. Right up in the north of Scotland. Which makes it a little surprising that two London Porter brewers, Barclay Perkins and Combe, both have multiple beers in the list. The other named brewers - Bass, Allsopp, Worthington and Guinness are less of a shock, with the exception perhaps or Worthington. The other three had been established national brands for more than half a century. Worthington was the rising star, bucking the trend of declining output amongst Burton brewers.

The sight of schooners and glasses in the draught price list has me confused. Wasn't draught beer only supposed to be sold in multiples of one third and half imperial pints?


You see that license-holders were only alliwed a third of the beer they had had in 1915. That's a pretty drastic reduction. You can see why brewers had to increase prices to stay in business. Longer term, they also slashed gravities so they could produce a greater volume of beer with the same materials.

London Porter Breweries in the 1830's (part three)

Now we're getting on to something of real interest: the London tied house system. It was London where the system of tied house first developed. It was a result of the intense competition for trade amongst brewers in the capital.

"Barclay, Perkins, and Company, have the most extensive porter brew-house in London. Their establishment is one of old standing, being the same which formerly yielded a noble fortune to Samuel Johnson's friend, Thrale. The quantity of porter now annually brewed by this house amounts to between three and four hundred thousand barrels. The following brewing companies, Hanbury's, Reid's, Whitbread's, Meux's, Combe and Delafield's, and Calvert's, produce also very large quantities, the issue of none being less than one hundred thousand barrels a-year, while it is double that quantity in several of the cases. But neither a knowledge of the amount of the annual manufacture, nor an estimate of the stock and consumption of hops and malt, will lead us to any thing like a fair idea of the capital embarked in one of these concerns. The cause of this may be in part explained. The hop and malt rooms are natural and obvious quarters for the employment of the wealth of these brewing-houses. But the funds of the same parties are absorbed also in less obvious ways. The most of the licensed public-houses in the city are connected with some brewing company or another, and hence are called "tied houses." The brewers advance loans to the publican on the security of his lease, and from the moment that necessity or any other cause tempts him to accept such a loan, he is bound to the lending party. Indeed, the advance is made on the open and direct condition that he shall sell the lender's liquor, and his alone. The publican, in short, becomes a mere retail-agent, for the behoof of one particular company. They clap their sign above his door, and he can no longer fairly call the house his own. The quantity of money thus lent out by the London brewers is enormous. One house alone, we know from good authority, has more than two hundred thousand pounds so employed. Perhaps the reader will have a still better idea of the extent to which this system is carried, when he is told that a single brew-house has fifteen thousand pounds worth of signboards stuck up over London — rating these articles, of course, at their cost prices. This explains what a stranger in the metropolis is first very much struck with the number of large boards marked with "Whitbread's Entire," "Meux's Double Refined," or "Combe and Delafield's Brown Stout House," that meet the eye in every part of London. These signs are of such size extend usually from side to side of the building on which they are placed, and if house presents two ends, or even three, to public view, the massive letters adorn them all. Such boards cost from fifteen to twenty pounds a-piece, that eight or nine hundred of them will amount to the sum total stated; and some breweries have that number up, in one quarter and another of the great city. This mode of advertising may look expensive, but it has its advantages. It is permanent,, and readily points out to the favourers of particular brewing-houses where their favourite stout is to he found. One loves Meux's, another man Barclay's, a third Courage and Donaldson's, and these gilded placards show where the desired articles may had by all parties. What an idea this "tie" system in itself gives us of the wealth of these brewers! A handsome fortune laid out on sign-boards!

. . . .

Serious attempts have frequently been made to shake the businesses of the great porter breweries, but the system was too deeply rooted to permit of its easy overthrow. A heavy though indirect stroke of this kind came from the ale-brewers of London, who some time since commenced brewing an ale article so low price as to encroach on the sale of "entire." In retaliation, the porter-houses, with the exception of three only, were tempted to add a proportion of ale to their ordinary manufacture. They do not, however, carry this ale brewing to any great extent, and, on the other hand, their porter monopoly remains but little, if at all. impaired.
Kendal Mercury - Saturday 26 January 1839, page 4.

Here's confirmation of the enormous quantities brewed by London Porter brewers, led by our favourite Barclay Perkins:

London Porter breweries in 1839
Brewery	Barrels brewed
Barclay Perkins	405,819
Whitbread	183,468
Truman, Hanbury	320,675
Reid and Co	171,650
Source:
"The British Brewing Industry, 1830-1980" T. R. Gourvish & R.G. Wilson, pages 610-611

This tied house system differed in important respects from the one at the end of the 19th century. While brewers did own the freehold of some pubs, the vast majority were tied as described in the text: through loans made to the publican. It was the publican who owned either the freehold or a lease for the pub. In the late 19th century breweries bought the freehold or long leases.

The article mentions how the Porter brewers had started to also brew Ale. This happened in the 1830's, probably as a reaction to the Beer Act and the new class of pubs, beer houses, created by it. There was a huge surge of beer house openings in the 1830's.

Thinking about it, the new liquid measures introduced in 1829 might have had an impact, too. Before then, Ale barrels had been 32 gallons and Beer barrels (Porter and Stout were beers) 36 gallons. The new measures set both at 36 gallons. A Porter brewery would have had to buy a stock of new barrels if it had wanted to brew Ale in the 1820's. In the 1830's the same barrels could be used for both Porter and Ale.

Eight or nine hundred tied pubs sounds a lot, but it's not unbelievable, given the quantity of beer being produced. I've figures for individual pub sales from Barclay Perkins from the early 20th century*. The most any pub sold was around 2,000 barrels a year. Many sold between 500 and 800 barrels. In general pubs had become larger in the intervening years and the 20th-century sales are for all beer, not just Porter. If we take 400 barrels a year as the average amount of Porter a pub sold, Barclay Perkins, brewing around 400,000 barrels a year, could easily have had 1,000 pubs.

I include the final paragraph of the article for your amusement. And for completeness.

"One point more about the London breweries, and have done with these loose hints. The stables of one of these establishments, when filled with their allotted tenants, constitute one of the very finest sights that can be seen on the whole premises. To Scotsmen, the powerful make and general beauty of the horses of burden that are seen traversing the streets of the metropolis, is always a subject of wonder. The little carts of his own country, and the comparatively puny though active creatures which draw them, sink into absolute insignificance in his eyes when contrasted with the colossal waggons and horses of the south. One horse to one cart is the way in Scotland, while in England you observe a train of six or eight gigantic creatures dragging along a large and heavily-loaded vehicle, resembling a goodly haystack in breadth, height, and compactness. A lengthened line of such waggons is one of the most imposing sights imaginable. As the brewers keep the very best of horses, it is in their stables that the beauty of the breed can be seen to most perfection. They are kept in the very highest condition, plump, sleek, and glossy. The order maintained throughout these large establishments extends to their stabling arrangements. In Whitbread's, we observed the name of each horse painted above his stall, and were told that every one of them knew its designation as well as any biped about the place. Some of the most extensive breweries employ above one hundred such horses, to disseminate their produce through all parts of the city and its suburbs.— Chambers's Edinburgh Journal."
Kendal Mercury - Saturday 26 January 1839, page 4.

That's this article done. Have to go and find another.

* Document ACC/2305/01/517 held at the London Metropolitan Archives.

Largest UK breweries in 1884

Time for another random statistical post. Based on a document I found on my last archive visit.

I say document. It's just a sheet of paper with a load of handwritten numbers. But I find them interesting. Here they are:


There are 11 breweries listed, with a combined output of around 6 million barrels. That's out of a total of 48 millions barrels for all breweries in the UK. Or 12.5%. Interestingly, the 11 were located in just three cities. Dublin, Burton and London. Eight in London alone.

It's a chilling reminder of London's demise as a major brewing centre. What's left today? Fuller's.

Come to think of it, all but the top two - Guinness and Bass - have closed. (Though Bass isn't really Bass any more.) Courage, Charrington and Truman were all still open when I began boozing.

Ok. I've got 10 minutes to finish this off. Have to be quick. Use of sugar. The Londoners were hooked on it. Guinness used none and the Burton boys just a little. (Just been looking through records of Truman's Burton brewery for this period. They didn't use as much as the Brick Lane parent brewery.) I wonder if that had any connection with the type of beer being brewed. Hang on, though. Whitbread used more in their Pale Ales than in anything else.

A decade or so after this, the first mega-merger took place. When Watney, Combe and Reid combined to form . . . . Watney, Combe, Reid. Their pooled output was over 1 million barrels. It was the beginning of consolidation of the brewing industry. A process, lasting 70 years, which led to the formation of the Big Six. (Should have been Big Seven, really, but for some reason CAMRA left Guinness out.)

There. I'm done. And with two minutes to spare.