Tuesday, 5 August 2025
The collapse of the UK hop industry
The UK, or more accurately England, was once one of the world's major hop producers. And not all that long ago. That's no longer the case.
True, after WW I the UK never grew as many hops as it did before. When it averaged around 500,000 zentners a year. (The quantity varied quite a bit from year to year. Bad years being only around 300,000 zentners and good years over 650,000 zentners). In the interwar period, and after WW II, production averaged around 250,000 zentners. Which was about enough to satisfy demand from UK brewers.
After 1980, however, things took a turn for the worse. With output falling to below 100,000 zentners by the end of the decade. By the end of the 1990s, that was down to 50,000 zentners. And the rot didn't stop there. By the end of the next decade, output had fallen to just 30,000 zentners. In thirty years, UK hop production had fallen by around 90%.
Will UK hops ever make a comeback? It doesn't seem likely. Outside of established family firms, UK brewers don't seem very keen on English hops. Neither traditional varieties, nor the new ones developed to fit in better with modern tastes.
Monday, 4 August 2025
World hop production 1898 - 1899
Hops are a very fussy crop. And can be grown successfully in far fewer locations than barley. As can be seen in the table. Where the whole world's supply comes from just nine countries, seven of them in Europe. And 90% cane from just four countries: the Germany, Austria, the UK and the USA.
But hop-growing was even more concentrated than that. In England, hops weren't grown in most of the country. Around three-quarters were grown in Either Kent or Hereford and Worcester. Similarly, most of Austria's hops came from Saaz, Auscha or Dauba: all parts of Bohemia. In Germany, the lion's share was grown in Bavaria, Baden-Württemberg or Alsace. And, by this time, the US hop industry had mostly moved to the West Coast.
What is the current situation? Germany and the USA continue to produce a considerable proportion of the world's hops. While the English hop industry has collapsed to a mere shadow of its former self. Which is rather sad. And I doubt that it will ever return to its former position.
A centner (Zentner in German) is 50 kg.
World hop production 1898 - 1899 | ||||
1898 | 1899 | 1898 | 1899 | |
Germany | centners. | centners. | % | % |
Bavaria | 262,000 | 300,000 | ||
Wurtemburg | 69,000 | 80,000 | ||
Baden | 30,000 | 40,000 | ||
Alsace | 63,000 | 90,000 | ||
Prussia | 13,000 | 40,000 | ||
Total | 437,000 | 550,000 | 28.66% | 28.06% |
Austria | ||||
Saaz | 70,000 | 120,000 | ||
Auscha | 55,000 | 70,000 | ||
Dauba | 20,000 | 20,000 | ||
Galicia | 12,000 | 25,000 | ||
Steinmark | 8,000 | 10,000 | ||
Upper Austria | 8,000 | 10,000 | ||
Mahren-Karntheim | 8,000 | 10,000 | ||
Total | 181,000 | 265,000 | 11.87% | 13.52% |
Other Countries | ||||
Russia | 65,000 | 70,000 | 4.26% | 3.57% |
Belgium and Holland | 36,000 | 70,000 | 2.36% | 3.57% |
France | 36,000 | 40,000 | 2.36% | 2.04% |
England | 357,000 | 500,000 | 23.41% | 25.51% |
America | 400,000 | 450,000 | 26.23% | 22.96% |
Australia | 13,000 | 15,000 | 0.85% | 0.77% |
Total | 907,000 | 1,145,000 | 59.48% | 58.42% |
Grand Total | 1,525,000 | 1,960,000 | ||
Source: | ||||
The Brewers' Journal vol. 35 1899, October 15th 1899, pages 553 - 554. |
Sunday, 3 August 2025
German beer exports in the 1890s
In the years after reunification, everything looked rosy for German brewing. Both production an exports were increasing.
Foreign and Home Consumption of German Beer
Mr. Max J. Baehr, Consul at Kehl states: The German beer industry has grown year by year, and the increasing capacity of the establishments has made it necessary for the brewers to search for new markets where their overproductions could be disposed of. The home consumption, of course, is depended on as giving the first and greatest chance to sell the different kinds of beer, but the larger brewers, especially those who increased the capacity of their establishments more or less after the style of the big American breweries, have had to find customers in foreign countries. Their efforts for some time met with good results, and Germany’s beer industry had an export market for its products which seemed to be all that could be expected.
The Brewers' Journal vol. 35 1899, September 15th 1899, page 516.
You can see that production rose Steadily from 1871 to 1890, when it fell back for a couple of years. Then started to grow even more quickly than before. My guess is that domestic consumption drove that growth. The volumes are too big - 10 million hl between 1895 and 1900 - for it possibly to be mostly exports.
In the year 1885, the export of German beer reached its high-water mark, amounting in that year to 1,318,000 hectoliters (34,821,560 gallons), representing a value of 24,000,000 marks (5,712,000 dollars). The next year, however, showed a decrease, and since then the export has gone down to about one-half of what it was in 1885. The reason given for this decline is that the countries which were Germany’s best customers (France, Belgium, and the Netherlands) have increased their output sufficiently to nearly meet the home demand. The high duty placed on foreign beers by France has also had the effect of considerably reducing the import of German beers into that country. In all those years, the export of German beer in bulk (barrels) has been greater, contrary to general belief, than in bottles.
The Brewers' Journal vol. 35 1899, September 15th 1899, page 516.
I make those record 1885 exports 967,266 barrels. Which is almost double the half million barrels exported from the UK Around the same time. Even when German exports fell by 50% after 1885, they would still be about equal to the UK's. Quite impressive, when you consider German didn't have an extensive oversea empire. As we saw in earlier posts, a high percentage of UK exports when to British possessions.
German beer once had nearly a monopoly of the beer trade of South America; but there also, it is stated, the demand has decreased, while at the same time, according to trade papers, the demand for United States beer has increased. The decline of the German beer trade in Brazil alone during the years 1896 and 1897 is given as amounting to fully three-fourths of what the German brewers had exported to that country in former years.
The Brewers' Journal vol. 35 1899, September 15th 1899, page 516.
It would have been more understandable if local beer had been taking the place of German imports. Why was American beer replacing it? Was it cheaper? Better promoted? More to local taste?
It is a noticeable fact that, while the export has declined year by year, the production of beer in Germany has advanced steadily, showing that the home consumption has greatly increased. At present, the United States is the best foreign customer for German beer, importing 522,138 gallons in 1895 and 689,456 gallons in 1896. The export of beer from Germany to Venezuela, Japan, and China together did not in the years given amount to one-half the exports to the United States alone. Brazil and British India, as consumers of German beer, come next to the United States.
The German brewing industry has strong hopes of entirely supplanting the English in Australia and other English colonies.
The Brewers' Journal vol. 35 1899, September 15th 1899, page 516.
That figure for German exports to the USA in 1896 is 19,152 barrels. In 1898, the UK exported quite a bit more, at 28,556 barrels.
It was the Australians themselves who replaced UK imports.
Saturday, 2 August 2025
Let's Brew - 1883 William Younger Stock Ale
With more dextro-maltose (for which I’ve substituted No. 2 invert) in the grist and the name, I suspect this might have been aged longer. So perhaps two years.
The recipe is really typical for Younger: base malt and sugar. Equal amounts of three types of base malt. Not very exciting.
As usual, the hopping was more complicated. They were American from the 1882 and 1883 harvests, and East Kent and Hallertau, both from 1883. Dry hops were Württemberg and American, both from 1883.
Long, long ageing. My guess would be at least two years. With Brettanomyces, obviously. Which would really dry the beer out. And leave it closer to 8% ABV.
1883 William Younger Stock Ale | ||
pale malt | 13.25 lb | 89.83% |
No. 2 invert | 1.50 lb | 10.17% |
Cluster 120 min | 3.50 oz | |
Hallertau 60 min | 3.50 oz | |
Goldings 30 min | 3.50 oz | |
Hallertau dry hops | 1.00 oz | |
Cluster dry hops | 1.00 oz | |
OG | 1068 | |
FG | 1016 | |
ABV | 6.88 | |
Apparent attenuation | 76.47% | |
IBU | 154 | |
SRM | 9 | |
Mash at | 153º F | |
Sparge at | 163º F | |
Boil time | 120 minutes | |
pitching temp | 59.5º F | |
Yeast | WLP028 Edinburgh Ale |
Friday, 1 August 2025
William Younger (Abbey) processes in 1885
The boil times average out a bit shorter than at Holyrood. And only No. 3 pale has a boil of three hours. I would say that it was due to the types of beer being brewed. Except that there are several of the stronger beers that you would expect to have a longer boil. And they don't. So there goes that theory.
There's a wider range of pitching temperatures. Which is because of the types of beers being brewed. As there are several relatively low-gravity beers which were pitched at temperatures of 60º F and above. Whilst the strongest beers were pitched as low as 55º F.
The average rise in temperature during fermentation was a bit under 12º F. Though this varied quite a bit. For the lowest gravity beers it was below 10º F. Whilst for the strongest beers - 160/- and No. 1 - it was 18º F. This is due to the stronger beers generating more heat during fermentation. This was controlled, however. As a few days into the fermentation the temperature was lowered through the use of the attemperators. Had they wished, they could have stopped any beer hitting more than 70º F.
It's the presence of many low-gravity beers that sees the average length of fermentation a couple of days shorter than at Holyrood. They only took four or five days, whilst the stronger beers took six of seven days.
William Younger (Abbey) processes in 1885 | ||||||
Beer | Style | boil time (hours) | Pitch temp | max. fermen-tation temp | length of fermen-tation (days) | |
T | Table Beer | 2 | 2.5 | 60.5º F | 68.5º F | 5 |
50/- | Ale | 2 | 2.5 | 60.5º F | 67.5º F | 4 |
S 50/- | Ale | 2 | 61º F | 66.5º F | 4 | |
B 50/- | Ale | 2.5 | 61º F | 69º F | 5 | |
H 60/- | Ale | 2 | 2.5 | 60º F | 71º F | 5 |
60/- | Ale | 2 | 2.5 | 60º F | 69º F | 5 |
80/- | Ale | 2 | 2.5 | 59º F | 68.5º F | 4 |
100/- | Ale | 2 | 2.5 | 56º F | 70º F | |
120/- | Ale | 2 | 57º F | 69º F | 6 | |
140/- | Ale | 2 | 2.5 | 56º F | 72.5º F | 7 |
160/- | Ale | 2 | 2.5 | 55.5º F | 73.5º F | 7 |
X | Mild | 2 | 2.5 | 62º F | 69º F | 6 |
XX | Mild | 2 | 2.5 | 60º F | 69º F | 6 |
XXX | Mild | 2 | 2.5 | 59º F | 69.5º F | 5 |
XXXX | Stock Ale | 2 | 2.5 | 52º F | 68º F | 6 |
P | Pale Ale | 2 | 2.5 | 59º F | 70º F | 7 |
XP | IPA | 2 | 2.5 | 59º F | 69º F | 5 |
XP Scotch | Pale Ale | 2 | 2.5 | 59.5º F | 68º F | 5 |
DBS | Stout | 2 | 2.5 | 56º F | 74º F | 7 |
S1 | Stout | 2 | 2.5 | 58.5º F | 69º F | 5 |
S2 | Stout | 2 | 2.5 | 59º F | 73º F | 4 |
1 | Strong Ale | 2 | 2.5 | 55.5º F | 74º F | 7 |
2 | Strong Ale | 2 | 2.5 | 55º F | 71.5º F | 7 |
3 | Strong Ale | 2 | 2.5 | 57.5º F | 71º F | 6 |
3 pale | Strong Ale | 2 | 3 | 55.5º F | 68.5º F | 7 |
Average | 2.02 | 2.52 | 58.2º F | 69.9º F | 5.6 | |
Source: | ||||||
William Younger brewing record held at the Scottish Brewing Archive, document number WY/6/1/2/31. |
Thursday, 31 July 2025
An interesting anniversary
A curious and interesting anniversary was celebrated at Berlin on the first day of the current month. It was nothing less than the seventieth anniversary of the introduction of Bavarian beer into the capital of Prussia, and, as the Daily Telegraph observes, this was no ordinary fete day, inasmuch as "it records an immense revolution in the bibulous habits and tastes of a very thirsty section of a notoriously absorptive race of people.” There is probably no unduly imaginative notion set afoot, when one declares that beer has played a great role in drawing the peoples of North and South Germany into close political and social union. When Herr Goschenhofer started his Bavarian beer brewery in Berlin, that is to say, in the year 1829, the political relations, existing between Prussia and Bavaria were, to use the language of diplomacy, somewhat strained, and the since realised dream of a United Germany appeared almost impossible of realisation.
The Brewers' Journal vol. 35 1899, September 15th 1899, page 530.
1829 seems very early to me for the first Lager brewery in Berlin. I'm sure I used yo have the dates for the first bottom-fermenting breweries in North Germany. Where the hell did I put that?
It seems that there were a few more Berlin Lager brewers in the first half of the 19th century.
During the interval between 1829 and 1850 some three or four Bavarian beer breweries appear to have sprung up, and to have commanded very fair business, but the real beginning of the general taste for South German beers dates from the years 1870-71, when the united German armies beat the French, and when the little “blue devils” of Bavaria enforced upon their superior Prussian comrades the respect they were entitled to by reason of the genuine prowess and bon camaraderie they everywhere displayed throughout that terrible campaign.
The Brewers' Journal vol. 35 1899, September 15th 1899, page 530.
Unification would obviously give a boost to Bavarian beer in the rest of Germany as lots of trade barriers were removed.
In a work indited by the late Henry Vizetelly, and entitled "Wines of the World,” we find the beers of Berlin thus described:— "Besides its weiss Bier,” says Vizetelly, writing in 1875, "Berlin is celebrated for its Baierisch Bier, brewed according to the Bavarian method, as well as its bitter, braun, josty, and weizen Biere. The bitter beer is very thin, whereas the brown beer is thick and often sweet. The josty beer, which takes its name from its brewer, has a flavour of herbs, and the weizen Bier, brewed like the weiss, from wheat malt, dispenses altogether with hops.”
The Brewers' Journal vol. 35 1899, September 15th 1899, page 530.
Odd that a book on wine should describe the types of beer brewed in Berlin. I'm wondering what is meant by "weizen Bier". It seems to be another type of wheat beer. I can't remember hearing of another type of Berlin wheat beer. Especially one without hops.
In all probability Bismarck set the fashion of drinking Baierisch bier; at all events, the custom of imbibing luscious draughts has so much increased that Berlin stands first in point of production of any town in the Fatherland. There are twenty large breweries, producing in the course of the year 2,805,000 hectolitres of beer. As a country Bavaria takes the lead in Germany, considered from the point of view of beer production, inasmuch as 16,000,000 hectolitres are annually brewed, the larger proportion being turned out from the splendid establishments at Munich. It will be of interest if we quote the figures representing the amount of alcoholic liquors produced in Germany in the course of a year. Beer, 61,000,000 hectolitres; wine, 32,000,000 litres; and 230,000,000 litres of brandy represent the amount required to assuage the thirst of that eminently thirsty nation. This means, as regards beer, 235.8 litres per head per annum in Bavaria ana 206 litres in Berlin. The inhabitants of Munich consume 566 litres per head annually, a record it would be hard to beat.
The Brewers' Journal vol. 35 1899, September 15th 1899, page 530.
Those consumption per head figures are totally crazy. 566 litres is more than ten litres a week. Given that there must have been people who drank little or no beer, there also must have been plenty of drinkers knocking back three litres or more every day. Just as well Lager wasn't really intoxicating.
The figure for wine production doesn't look right. I think it's more likely 30 million hectolitres, rather than litres.
The consumption of lager in this country appears to be but a mere drop in the ocean as compared with the home-brewed article, inasmuch as the first six months of the year only indicate imports of lager at the rate of 50,000 barrels a year, yet in the face of the facts we have stated as to the ever-growing popularity of beers brewed on the Bavarian system in Berlin, we should hardly like to say that it is impossible that lager may grow in public estimation in London, and England generally, especially if the price is moderate and the liquor good. The experiment is to be tried, and its issue will be watched with no common degree of interest by every brewer, in almost equal measure, in fact, as by the enterprising Burton firm who are taking up the production of this much-vaunted “conversational ale.”
The Brewers' Journal vol. 35 1899, September 15th 1899, page 530.
Lagers may have been growing in popularity, but the quantities consuned were still tiny. And would remain so for a long while. Possobly because the price of Lager remained much higher than that of other beers.
The last section clearly refers to Allsopp and their purchase of a Lager plant. And their experiment in brewing certainly didn't work out. They only brewed Lager in Burton for around a decade, the plant then falling into disuse. And was eventually moved to Arroll in Alloa.
Wednesday, 30 July 2025
Let's Brew Wednesday - 1911 Eldridge Pope XXXX
Rather surprisingly, XXXX has a higher gravity than in 1897. It’s only by 1º, but it’s better than a decline.
Ther have been a couple of changes to the recipe, too. The flaked maize has been dropped. In its place there comes a small quantity of crystal malt. There’s also be a change in the type of sugar, from No. 2 invert to No. 3. Which leaves the colour of this version far darker. Something which would have been very noticeable, had it happened in one go. Which I doubt is how it went.
There were four types of hops, three English, two from the 1909 harvest and one from 1910. As well as Oregon hops from 1909.
This looks very much like a candidate for ageing, given the reasonably high gravity and the heavy hopping. My guess would be for at least a year.
1911 Eldridge Pope XXXX | ||
pale malt | 14.00 lb | 85.50% |
crystal malt 60 L | 0.75 lb | 4.58% |
No. 3 invert sugar | 1.625 lb | 9.92% |
Cluster 125 mins | 1.75 oz | |
Fuggles 90 mins | 1.75 oz | |
Fuggles 60 mins | 1.75 oz | |
Fuggles 30 mins | 1.75 oz | |
OG | 1076 | |
FG | 1024 | |
ABV | 6.88 | |
Apparent attenuation | 68.42% | |
IBU | 86 | |
SRM | 15 | |
Mash at | 153º F | |
Sparge at | 170º F | |
Boil time | 125 minutes | |
pitching temp | 60º F | |
Yeast | White Labs WLP099 Super High Gravity |
Tuesday, 29 July 2025
William Younger (Holyrood) processes in 1884
The boiling times are very consistent two hours for the first wort and 2.5 hours for the second. Except for some of the stronger beers, where it was 2.5 hours and 3 hours. Oh, and the Pils. But, in that case, it was because it was parti-gyled with XXX.
Is that particularly long? The boil that supposedly reduced the first wort to a syrup? Well, no. Long boils were common at the time. For example, in 1883, in Truman's Burton brewery, every wort was boiled for three hours. Between 1.5 and 2 hours was more common, but there were plenty that were longer. What's odd is that earlier in the century Younger's boil times were very short. Sometimes an hour or even less. It's only in the 1860s that they became longer.
All of the pitching temperatures are under 60º F. Which is a little on the cool side. Though that's probably explained by the reasonably high gravity of the beers. You'll see that, in general, the stronger the beer, the lower the pitching temperature. On average, the maximum temperature was around 12º F higher. Hitting somewhere in the low 70sº F.
The exception, quite logically, being the Pils. Starting at just 42º F and only rising a couple of degrees. As this seemed to be brewed on their standard equipment, were they achieving this just with attemperators? I suppose it would be possible if the wort had been cooled to 42º F before being transferred to the fermenter.
Around a week was pretty typical for primary fermentation. Nothing unusual there. Obviously, the cool fermentation of the Pils took much longer.
William Younger (Holyrood) processes in 1884 | ||||||
Beer | Style | boil time (hours) | Pitch temp | max. fermen-tation temp | length of fermen-tation (days) | |
S XP | IPA | 2 | 2.5 | 58.5º F | 70º F | 7 |
XP | IPA | 2 | 2.5 | 58.5º F | 69º F | 7 |
XXP | IPA | 2 | 2.5 | 58.5º F | 70º F | 6 |
XXX | Mild | 2.5 | 3 | 58.5º F | 69º F | 6 |
XXXX | Mild | 2.5 | 3 | 59º F | 72º F | 7 |
XXXX / 3 | Mild | 2 | 2.5 | 56º F | 72º F | 6 |
Ext | Pale Ale | 2 | 2.5 | 57º F | 72º F | 7 |
S Ext | Pale Ale | 2 | 2.5 | 59º F | 69.5º F | 7 |
PX | Pils | 2.5 | 3 | 42º F | 45º F | 16 |
1 | Strong Ale | 2 | 2.5 | 56º F | 72.5º F | 7 |
3 | Strong Ale | 2.5 | 3 | 57º F | 73º F | 7 |
Average | 2.18 | 2.68 | 56.4º F | 68.5º F | 7.5 | |
Source: | ||||||
William Younger brewing record held at the Scottish Brewing Archive, document number WY/6/1/3/11. |
Monday, 28 July 2025
UK Beer exports by continent in 1898
The three largest markets for UK beer were Europe, Asia and Australasia. The first makes sense, due to its proximity. Exports to Asia seems to have been mostly for the British military. But what about Australia? That didn't have a large number of British forces stationed there. It seems that it was mostly consumed by ordinary Australian residents. Though that would change after Confederation in 1901, when import duties were imposed on UK beer to encourage local production.
There's a big variation in the value of the beer exported to the different continents. Ranging from a little under 60 shillings a barrel for the beer sent to Europe to over 85 shillings to that destined to North America. The logical conclusion would be that North America was getting stronger beer.
Equally varied is the percentage of exports that were Scottish. Two continents were well below the average of almost 17%. For Europe Scotland's share was a mere 8% and for Africa 15%. While for Asia it was a massive 56%. That's quite a difference. North America was also above average at around a third. Though that was boosted by the liking of Caribbean islands for Scottish beer.
After WW I, the Scottish share of UK beer exports would increase, eventually hitting 50%.
UK Beer exports by continent in 1898 | ||||||||
Destination | From England. | From Scotland. | From the U.K. | |||||
Quantity. | Declared Value. | Quantity. | Declared Value. | Quantity. | Declared Value. | |||
Barrels | £ | Barrels | £ | Barrels | £ | % Scottish | shillings/barrel | |
Europe | 128,433 | 382,924 | 11,115 | 33,368 | 139,550 | 416,338 | 7.96% | 59.67 |
Africa | 49,375 | 155,805 | 8,603 | 32,286 | 57,978 | 188,031 | 14.84% | 64.86 |
Asia | 44,949 | 142,769 | 57,226 | 168,548 | 102,175 | 311,317 | 56.01% | 60.94 |
Australasia | 75,196 | 304,730 | 25,841 | 101,289 | 101,639 | 406,022 | 25.42% | 79.89 |
North America | 35,847 | 151,076 | 19,739 | 75,992 | 58,788 | 251,348 | 33.58% | 85.51 |
South America | 8,826 | 31,815 | 3,296 | 14,610 | 12,182 | 46,515 | 27.06% | 76.37 |
Total | 342,626 | 1,169,119 | 125,820 | 426,093 | 472,312 | 1,619,571 | 26.64% | 68.58 |
Source: | ||||||||
The Brewers' Journal vol. 35 1899, June 15th 1899, page 344. | ||||||||
Note: | ||||||||
Year ending 30th September 1898. |