Youngs hops in 1939

Time for the final ingredient now: hops. Though they aren’t quite as exciting as the hops and sugars. Why? Because they’re exactly the same two types in every single beer but one. Which is very different from what you’d find at a brewery nowadays, where every beer would tend to have its own individual hopping. Though, in the 1990s, Youngs were doing pretty much the same thing, with only the Lagers having different hops.

The hops were all pretty fresh. Either from the most recent season – 1938 – or the season before, but cold stored (that’s what CS stands for). And all, except for one type in PA, were from Kent. 

Youngs hops in 1939
Beer	hop 1	hop 2	hop 3
A	Kent 1937 CS	Kent 1938
X	Kent 1937 CS	Kent 1938
PA	Kent 1937	Worcs. 1938	Kent 1938
PAB	Kent 1938 CS	Kent 1938
P	Kent 1938 CS	Kent 1938
S	Kent 1938 CS	Kent 1938
XXX	Kent 1938 CS	Kent 1938
XXXX	Kent 1938 CS	Kent 1938
Source:
Young's brewing record held at Battersea Library, document number YO/RE/1/8.

 

What is Berliner Weisse?

Yet another video. This time looking into the history of Berliner Weuisse. A style which, sadly, is close to extinction.

 

Fremlin beer gravities in 1924

When I took Andrew with me to photograph brewing records, I told him to always look inside the front and back covers. Because there's often interesting information scribbled down there.

Annual totals, water treatment, malts used and general notes. I've certainly harvested lots of dead handy stuff from these pages. Fremlin's records have several pages of this stuff. One of which, in their 1924/1925 records, contains the information below.

What it contains is rather typical of the immediate post-WW I period. Where brewers often fiddled around with their beers post-fermentation. Usually watering them down to hit the new lower gravities. Examples of breweries who did this are William Younger and Truman's Burton brewery.

At Fremlin, several beers were created by watering down others: IOS, BB and H. While others either had water added after fermentation or were blended with a low-gravity beer called "Spcl" (I assume that stands for "special". Though I'm not so sure what's special about something so watery. 

Fremlin beer gravities in 1924
beer	declare	action	finish
OS "Sp"	1044.5		1047.3
OS "Ord:	1041.7		1044.5
IOS	1028.4	dilute OS to 1028.4	1032.0
EB "Sp"	1045.3		1045.9
EB "Ord"	1042.3		1043.1
H	1042.3	dilute to 1034.5	1036.1
BB	1038.1	dilute EB or H  to 1038.1	1039.5
DA "Sp"	1032.5	add 12% Spcl @ 1026.4	1032.0
DA "Ord"	1031.1	add 12% Spcl @ 1026.4	1030.6
X	1028.1	dilute DA to 1028.1, add 12% Spcl @ 1026.4	1027.8
3 Star	1043.6	add 12% Spcl @ 1026.4	1041.7
Stock	1043.6		1044.5
EA	1049.2		1050.0
Source:
Fremlin brewing record held at the Kent Archives, document number U3555/2/F/Bx2/1/45.
OS = Oatmeal Stout

Let's Brew Wednesday - 1897 Fremlin Pilsener

Now here’s a really unusual beer. A Pilsener brewed by a regional brewery that didn’t have a specialist Lager plant.

Rather oddly, they seem to have dropped Pilsener during WW I. A time when some other breweries started to experiment with Lager brewing when continental supplies were cut off.

It’s a pretty authentic stab at the style. OK, it uses pale malt rather than lager malt, but I’ll let them off that. Especially as they went to the trouble of a double decoction mash. Not totally sure how they achieved that in a standard UK brew house.

It looks like they had three rests, at 95º F, 135º F and 165º F. Achieving those temperatures through two boils of half the mash. Looks pretty authentic to me.

Unfortunately, I have no idea of the fermentation temperature. As Fremlin couldn’t be arsed to record that. Though, given that they used Carlsberg yeast, I’m guessing that it was pretty cool.

I’m pretty sure that the hops were Bohemian as the name of the grower was Veleke. That’s what I’ve guessed, anyway. They were pretty fresh, coming from the 1896 harvest. 

1897 Fremlin Pilsener
pale malt	8.75 lb	79.55%
flaked maize	2.25 lb	20.45%
Saaz 155 min	1.00 oz
Saaz 60 min	1.00 oz
Saaz 30 min	1.00 oz
OG	1047
FG	1010
ABV	4.89
Apparent attenuation	78.72%
IBU	30
SRM	4
Mash at	double decoction
Sparge at	170º F
Boil time	155 minutes
pitching temp	53º F
Yeast	Wyeast 2042 Danish lager

action	barrels	temp.	mash temp
dough in	9	cold
mash in	3.5	210º F	95º F
boil	6.25		135º F
boil	6.25		165º F
sparge	5	170º F
sparge	6	170º F
sparge	6	170º F

 

 

 

What was Britain's first Lager?

I'm back on the Lager again. With details of the first Lager ever brewed in the UK. Which was surprisingly early.

 

Colours of Holyrood beers in 2001

A bit of a change of pace today. We're jumping over to Scotland. And quite recently. Why? BEcause I just happened to notice part of the William Younger archive that I hadn't ever done anything with.

It's a set of type-written sheets recording the specifications of the Scottish & Newcastle beers brewed in Scotland. At either the Holyrood brewery (William Younger) or the Fountain Brewery (William McEwan). The particular sheet we're looking at today defines the colours of the beers for bottling brewed at Holyrood.

What particularly struck me were the notes about the colour of the Brown Ale and Sweet Stout. Both were brewed way darker than rewuired because of the quantity of "reprocessed beer" added to them. This would have been ullage (returned beer) and other shit. The change in colour implies an awful lot of it. 

Colours of Holyrood beers in 2001
beer	EBC
* S/Stout	270°
Harp (Bott)	9°
DCA (Double Century Ale)	70°
DBS (McEwans Milk Stout)	270°
PA (Youngers Pale Ale)	24°
K 5/A (McEwans Pale Ale)	48°
** BA (Brown Ale)	85°
Harp (CT)	9°
XXPS	25°
5/b (McEwans Export)	25°
Source:
Holyrood and Fountain beer specifications held at the Scottish Brewing Archive, document number WY/6/1/8/1.
* SS is brewed at a colour of 600° - when blended with reprocessed beer, the final colour is 270°
** BA is brewed at a colour of 220° - when blended with reprocessed beer, the final colour is 85°

 

What is Scottish Sweet Stout?

I explain the wonderful Scottish style of Sweet Stout. Very sweet and barely fermented. Yum!

 

Youngs adjuncts and sugars in 1939

Moving on, let’s look at the rest of the grist. There’s not much in the way of adjuncts. There’s just the one, flaked oats. At least, I think it was flaked oats. The brewing record simply says “oats”, meaning that it could also have been in malted form. I’ve gone with flakes, simply because that was the more common form.

Not using adjuncts in their other beers is quite unusual. Though by no means unique. Whitbread, for example, also brewed adjunct-free. Most brewers, however, employed flaked maize. UK brewers’ favourite adjunct for most of the 20th century.

Every beer contains some malt extract. Presumably there to add extra enzymes. It was reasonably common in mid-20th-century recipes.

Two numbered invert sugars make an appearance. The lightest in colour, No. 1, is, logically enough, in the two Pale Ales. In a relatively large proportion of around 12%. Which would have helped to keep the colour nice and pale, as is appropriate for the style.

No. 3, on the other hand, appears in the Mild and Strong Ales. In a rather smaller amount, just 7% to 8%. Its purpose would be dual, to add both colour and flavour. There was even less in the Black Beers, a mere 5%.

Rather surprisingly, caramel doesn’t turn up in the Black Beers, only the Mild and Strong Ales. In both of the latter, the quantities are quite small. The purpose being colour correction.

The overall average of 12% is a bit below the national average of 16%. Only the two Pale Ales are close to that national figure. 

Youngs adjuncts and sugars in 1939
Beer	Style	flaked oat	malt extract	no. 1 sugar	no. 3 sugar	caramel	total sugar
A	Mild		3.30%		6.60%	0.96%	10.87%
X	Mild		2.21%		7.19%	0.97%	10.37%
PA	Pale Ale		3.23%	12.90%			16.13%
PAB	Pale Ale		2.86%	11.43%			14.29%
P	Porter	5.00%	5.00%		5.00%		10.00%
S	Stout	5.00%	5.00%		5.00%		10.00%
XXX	Strong Ale		2.68%		8.05%	0.75%	11.48%
XXXX	Strong Ale		2.68%		8.05%	0.75%	11.48%
	Average						11.83%
Source:
Young's brewing record held at Battersea Library, document number YO/RE/1/8.

 

Youngs malts in 1939

Time to look under the bonnet at what went into these beers. Bullying off with the malts.

There are quite a lot of base malts. Three in total. Four if you include the enzymic malt. The Mild and Pale Ales all have two base malts. For the Mild Ales, that’s, er, mild malt and pale malt. And for the Pale Ales, PA malt and pale malt. Which, I suppose, has some logic to it.

The Black Beers – Porter and Stout – only have a single base malt: mild malt. The cheapest of the base malts. Which is logical in beers with lots of coloured malts which would obscure the base malt’s flavour.

Enzymic malt, used to lower the pH of the mash, only pops up in the two Pale Ales. Presumably, it wasn’t needed in the other beers ass they contained coloured malts. Youngs were extremely loyal to enzymic malt and were still using it in the 1990s. 

All the beers, other than the Pale Ales, contain some crystal malt. It’s a type of malty which, after WW II, became pretty common in Pale Ales. But before the war, it was pretty well unknown in the style.

There’s lots of roasted malt in the Black Beers: 17.5% in total. That’s split across black and amber malt. It’s a slightly unusual for a London grist. More usual was a combination of black and brown malt. Or, in the case of Whitbread, chocolate malt and brown malt.

Overall, the percentage of malt in the grist is quite high, averaging 87%. Higher than the average for the UK, which was 78%.  

Youngs malts in 1939
Beer	Style	pale malt	black malt	amber malt	mild malt	PA malt	crystal malt	enzymic malt	total malt
A	Mild	13.20%			66.02%		9.90%		89.13%
X	Mild	16.60%			63.07%		9.96%		89.63%
PA	Pale Ale	25.81%				54.84%		3.23%	83.87%
PAB	Pale Ale	32.14%				50.36%		3.21%	85.71%
P	Porter		7.50%	10.00%	60.00%		7.50%		85.00%
S	Stout		7.50%	10.00%	60.00%		7.50%		85.00%
XXX	Strong Ale				80.47%		8.05%		88.52%
XXXX	Strong Ale				80.47%		8.05%		88.52%
	Average								86.92%
Source:
Young's brewing record held at Battersea Library, document number YO/RE/1/8.

 

What is Kulmbacher?

I chat about Kulmbacher, one of my favourite extinct Lager styles. Strong and heavily hopped - why haven't modern brewers jumped all over this style?

 

Let's Brew - 1941 Youngs X Ale

What have two years of war done to Young’s standard Mild? 

For a start, it’s whittled off 5º of gravity. Leaving it barely over 3% ABV and not much stronger than Ale had been in 1939. There’s also been a big reduction in the hopping rate, down from 6 lbs per quarter (336 lbs) of malt to just 4 lbs. 

The result is a pretty weak and lightly-hopped beer. Looking very much like a post-war version of the style.

The recipe itself hasn’t change much. Other than dropping the pale malt and going to a 100% mild malt base. There’s also been in an increase in the proportion of crystal malt and a reduction in No. 3 invert. 

Just one type of hops, Sussex from the 1940 season. Which, as this beer was brewed in May, were from the most recent harvest. 

1941 Youngs X Ale
mild malt	5.50 lb	83.33%
crystal malt 120 L	0.675 lb	10.23%
malt extract	0.125 lb	1.89%
No. 3 invert sugar	0.25 lb	3.79%
caramel 1000 SRM	0.05 lb	0.76%
Fuggles 120 min	0.50 oz
Fuggles 30 min	0.50 oz
OG	1030
FG	1006.5
ABV	3.11
Apparent attenuation	78.33%
IBU	13
SRM	13.5
Mash at	152º F
Sparge at	170º F
Boil time	120 minutes
pitching temp	59º F
Yeast	WLP002 English Ale

 

Youngs beers in 1940

A year into the war, what had happened to Youngs beers? To be honest, not very much.

The situation was very dynamic, so it’s worth saying exactly when this snapshot was taken. All these beers were brewed in August 1940, except for XXXX, which is from December.

Things hadn’t yet become so bad that drastic action was required. Just a few tweaks were necessary. That wouldn’t be the case for the whole of the war. For now, there was little change to the beers being brewed. Other than the price.

For example, the cost price of a 36-gallon barrel of X Ale had risen from 49 shillings and 11d in August 1939 to 111 shillings and 9d twelve months later.  That more than doubling in price was mostly due to increases in tax.

The most obvious change is a slight reduction in gravities. Most beers lost 1º, the exceptions being A, PAB and XXXX, which were unchanged, and XXX, which fell by 2º.

It’s a similar story with hopping rates. Those for the two Black Beers and the Mild Ales are unchanged. While that of the Pale Ales has been reduced by 1 lb per quarter (336 lbs) of malt.

The rates of attenuation look somewhat higher in this set. I wouldn’t read that much into it, as final gravities varied quite a bit from brew to brew. And even across the different fermenters in a single batch.

Youngs beers in 1940
Beer	Style	OG	FG	ABV	App. Atten-uation	lbs hops/ qtr	hops lb/brl
A	Mild	1029	1005.5	3.10	80.90%	6.14	0.71
X	Mild	1034	1005	3.84	85.34%	5.60	0.81
PAB	Pale Ale	1039	1008.3	4.06	78.69%	7.00	1.07
PA	Pale Ale	1047	1012.7	4.53	72.89%	7.00	1.29
P	Porter	1034	1008.3	3.40	75.56%	7.00	0.99
S	Stout	1052	1016.6	4.68	68.04%	7.00	1.52
XXX	Strong Ale	1055	1017.2	5.00	68.77%	5.60	1.31
XXXX	Strong Ale	1081	1036	5.95	55.54%	6.09	2.00
Source:
Young's brewing record held at Battersea Library, document number YO/RE/1/9.

 

Robust Porter

Sorry. I was a bit tired of transcribing Young's WW II brewing records. (I'm only up to 19 fucking 42. So much more to go. Just as well I'm no longer working. Sorry, employed. I work at this shit for big chunks of the day.)

A deep dive into one of my favourite styles.

 

My travel videos

Does any of you like them? I'm not sure I can be arsed to continue taking video. 

Maybe I'll continue with the pure beer stuff. Like next week, when I'll be doing some Grodziskie judging in, er, Grodzisk. I can see how that might have some historical value. If I make an effort and interview people. 

The more I think about it, that's exactly what I should do. Not just video my breakfast.

Thanks for that. It's really cleared that up in my head. And given me a plan for next week in Grodzisk. 

 Not been to Poland for 30 years. I'm guessing it might have changed a little bit. 

Beer in Vietnam

My mate Charles Guerrier told me that Vietnam was the best place for beer in Southeast Asia. And Saigon in particular. So I was very optimistic of the beer I would find there.

Which wasn't something I felt in Bangkok. Admittedly, I wasn't really hanging out in beer places. And the choice was limited to the local Lager or stuff imported from Europe. I went for the former. As what's the point in travelling thousands of miles and drinkinmg beer you can get at home?

As I was stopping slap bang in the centre of Saigon, there were beery options close to my hotel. I wasn't going to miss out on those.

The first place I tried was East West Brewing. A brewpub. Sort of. As, due to council restrictions, it no longer brews on site. Despite the shiny equipment at the back. Which is a shame.

East West's beers, wherever they might be brewed, are still pretty good. All very much in mainstream modern styles: Pale Ale, IPA, Hefeweize, Witbier, Lager, Pilsner, Vanilla Porter, Imperial Stout, Belgian Dark and Belgian Blonde. (At least, that's what they had on draught when I was there. I'm sure that it varies somewhat.) A good spread of styles, strengths and colours. Not just twenty types of fucking IPA.

Any guesses what I went for? Imperial Stout, obviously.

I met with Nhi Mai, brewer at East West. A smart young woman, who explained some of the vagaries of brewing Saigon. Such as the council forbidding brewing in the city centre on account of the waste water.

We shared a few beers in both East West and another nearby former brewpub, Pasteur Street, conveniently just 150 metres further along the same street. They also brew quite a few typical styles: Lager, Blonde Ale, Irish Stout, Pale Ale, Jasmine Amber, Session IPA, Pomelo IPA, Jasmine IPA, Double Jasmine IPA, and Imperial Chocolate Stout. Rather more IPA-heavy than East West.

What did I choose? No, it wasn't the Imperial Stout. I was being sensible and just had a Double Jasmine IPA, at a mere 8.5%. (I did, however, try the Imperial Stout when I returned the next day.)

The beers from both breweries were all technically good and pretty decent examples of the styles. Better than some of the beers I've had in Holland or the USA, for example. 

I was pretty impressed. And I only scratched the surface. Ho Chi Minh has many more breweries and beer bars. I can heartily recommend it.


East West Brewing
181 Lý Tự Trọng, 
Bến Thành, 
Hồ Chí Minh.
https://eastwestbrewing.vn/taproom/ho-chi-minh


Pasteur Street Craft Beer
112 Lý Tự Trọng, 
Hồ Chí Minh.
https://pasteurstreet.com/
 

A companion video:

 

 

Bangkok and Saigon food

Someone suggested that I post about the food that I ate in Thailand and Vietnam. Being a lazy git, I've done it in the form of a short video.

I had lots of excellent food in both countries. Mostly local stuff. But who can resist a bacon baguette for breakfast? Or to top up when the meal wasn't quite filling enough.

What I forgot, was to video the banh mi that I had in Vietnam.Excellent stuff. If slightly weird, as they all contained pate. Making it a true fusion dish of French and Vietnamese cuisine. 

In Bangkok, once I realised I had to ask for the food "just a little spicy" if I wanted to get it spiced, but not crazily spiced. Every meal I had came with a fried egg. You can never go wrong with a fried egg on top of stuff.

  

What are Licht and Donker Lagerbier?

For the first time I stray outside the UK with one of my videos, taking a look at the cheap and cheerful pale and dark 3.5% Dutch Lagers from before WW II.

 

Let's Brew Wednesday - 1939 Youngs Stout

When war broke out, Youngs were still parti-gyling a Stout with their Porter. Though, in addition to those two beers, they also magicked up Oatmeal Stout at 1046º and Family Stout at 1037º. Presumably, by blending the two base beers.

As brewed, the Stout is a typical 8d per pint draught London Stout. There were two types of draught Stout in London, 7d per pint at around 1048º and 8d at 1054º. With some brewers, such as Truman, brewing beers in both classes.

I won’t go into details of the recipe, as it’s identical with the Porter above, with which this beer was parti-gyled.

The degree of attenuation isn’t great and that seems to be deliberate, as it’s similar in every example I have. Implying that they were aiming for quite a heavy body. Which makes sense for a Stout.

Pretty sure this wasn’t aged to any extent. Maybe a couple of weeks in the trade cask, but no more.

1939 Youngs Stout
mild malt	6.75 lb	58.06%
black malt	0.875 lb	7.53%
amber malt	1.25 lb	10.75%
crystal malt 120 L	0.875 lb	7.53%
flaked oats	0.625 lb	5.38%
No. 3 invert sugar	0.625 lb	5.38%
caramel 500 SRM	0.625 lb	5.38%
Fuggles 120 min	1.75 oz
Fuggles 30 min	1.75 oz
OG	1053
FG	1016.5
ABV	4.83
Apparent attenuation	68.87%
IBU	40
SRM	43
Mash at	152º F
Sparge at	170º F
Boil time	120 minutes
pitching temp	60º F
Yeast	WLP002 English Ale

 

Whitbread's bottled beers in 1934

Time to look at the bottled beers in Whitbread’s 1934 price list. Which includes, in addition to the four beers brewed in their Chiswell Street brewery, several produced elsewhere. Which is handy, as it gives a better idea of the beers actually available in a London pub.

The four Chiswell Street beers are the first in list. There appear to be four beers: London Stout, Oatmeal Stout, India Pale Ale and Double Brown. Though the two Stouts were, in reality, identical.

The two Forest beers came from the Forest Gate brewery, which Whitbread bought in ????. One of their main reasons for purchasing the brewery was to get hold of modern, sediment-free bottling technology. Whitbread having stuck with bottle-conditioning until after WW I.

Based on the price, I’m guessing that the two Forest beers were around 1040º. Hang on. I have an analysis from 1934. It gives the OG as 1039º. So, my guess was pretty close.

Pioneer Ale and Stout were brands of the Lovibond brewery. Not sure why Whitbread were selling them, as I can’t find any connection between the two breweries. I know from analyses in the Whitbread Gravity Book that both beers were around 1030º. 

As already mentioned, Mackeson Milk Stout was being sold at a premium. Based on its gravity in the mid-1050ºs , it falls in the 9d per pint class. But it was sold for 10d per pint.

Something similar is happening with Guinness Extra Stout and Bass Pale Ale. Both of those also had gravities in the mid-1050ºs, but also retailed at 10d per pint. Which was a 1d per pint premium over the expected price. 

Both Bass and Guinness were widely available in other brewers’ tied houses. Usually being bottled by the other brewery, too. The premium charged reflects the renown of the two beers.

In addition to the above prices, a deposit was charged on the bottles of 1d per half pint, 2d per pint and 3d per flagon.  Which, especially in the case of cheaper beers, was a considerable percentage of the total price paid. 

Whitbread's bottled beers in 1934
	Per doz. Botts		Per doz. Half-botts	crates of four flagons
	Wholesale	Retail	Wholesale	Wholesale	Retail
London Stout	6/1d	8/-	—	3/10d	5/-
do. ("Special Whitbread")	—	—	3/6d	—	—
Oatmeal Stout	6/1d	8/-	—	3/10d	5/-
India Pale Ale	5/4d	7/-	—	3/4d	4/4d
do. ("Small Whitbread")	—	—	3/1d	—	—
Double Brown	7/-	9/-	4/-	4/5d	5/8d
(A fine strong ale)
FOREST ALE AND STOUT
Oatmeal Stout	5/4d	7/-	3/1d	3/4d	4/4d
Brown Ale	5/4d	7/-	3/1d	3/4d	4/4d
PIONEER ALE AND STOUT
Family Stout	4/6d	6/-	—	2/10d	3/8d
Family Ale	4/6d	6/-	—	2/10d	3/8d
MACKESON'S MILK STOUT
Milk Stout	7/8d	10/-	4/2d	4/10d	6/-
Bass	8/8d	10/-	5/-
Guinness	8/8d	10/-	5/-
Bass Barley Wine in nips
Source:
A 1934 Whitbread price list.