What is Broyhan?

Another one of my little videos, this time looking at Broyhan, for centuries the most popular beer style in North Germany. Now, it's just a memory. At least, the original style.

 

Let's Brew Wednesday - 1909 Maclay PI 60/-

We’ve now arrived at Maclay’s top-of-the-range Pale Ale, 60/-. How ironic that this was the only one of Maclay’s Pale Ales to survive WW I and WW II. And end up being the most watery beer they produced.

For a brewery’s most expensive Pale Ale, it’s not all that strong. In London, the strongest Pale Ales were around 1060º. This is more like the strength of a second-string London Pale Ale. Interesting, that. A not particularly great rate of attenuation leaves this not much over 4.5% ABV. Which isn’t much more than a post-WW II Best Bitter.

There’s not much to say about the recipe, this being parti-gyled with the PI 54/- we’ve already looked at. The grist consisting just of pale and amber malt, grits and Greenock sugar. It’s quite an untypical recipe for Scotland, where just pale malt, flaked maize and sugar was more usual.

As always with Maclay, there were loads of hops. . Hallertau from the 1905, Hallertau and 1907 seasons; Californian from 1907, Farnham from 1908 and Worcester from 1905.

I doubt that this was aged more than a couple of weeks.

1909 Maclay PI 60/-
pale malt	7.00 lb	63.64%
amber malt	0.25 lb	2.27%
grits	2.50 lb	22.73%
No. 2 invert sugar	1.25 lb	11.36%
Cluster 120 min	0.75 oz
Hallertau 60 min	0.75 oz
Fuggles 30 min	1.50 oz
Goldings dry hops	0.50 oz
OG	1051
FG	1016
ABV	4.63
Apparent attenuation	68.63%
IBU	38
SRM	7
Mash at	147º F
after underlet	152º F
Sparge at	170º F
Boil time	120 minutes
pitching temp	63.5º F
Yeast	WLP028 Edinburgh Ale

 

 

London Strong Burton Ale 1880 - 1899

We’re moving on now to the stronger types of London Burton Ale here. A beer which was usually called KKK within the brewhouse.

One of the strongest types brewed in London, the quantities made were quite modest. In 1890, Whitbread brewed just 6,000 barrels of KKK out of a total of 381,000 barrels. Of which 210,000 barrels was X Ale.  Which is what most Londoners were drinking.

These beers are pretty much beefed-up versions of KK. Sometimes, like at Whitbread, being parti-gyled with KK. When brewed single-gyle, the hopping was often heavier in KKK.

Like KK and X Ale, KKK began down the path of darkness in the final decades of the 19th century. Who really knows why they became darker?

Though of a lower gravity, beers of the type continued to be brewed after WW I. Fullers Old Burton Extra being a good example.

Let’s take a look at some real examples.

As you can see in the table, the gravity averages about 14º higher than the weaker type of Burton Ale. And about 0.75º ABV stronger, at 8% ABV. There isn’t a huge variation across the three beers, with all being around 1090º.

The final gravities do vary more, ranging from 1025º to 1033º. Though these should be taken with a pinch of salt, as these are the gravities at the end of primary fermentation. After a long secondary Brettanomyces fermentation the true final gravity would have been much lower. And hence the degree of attenuation considerably higher.

The hopping rate, unsurprisingly, is very high. Averaging 14 lbs per quarter (336 lbs) of malt. About 2lbs per quarter more than the standard-strength Burtons. It’s even higher than the rate for London Stock Pale Ales, which is 13 lbs per quarter.

As with the standard beers, the Truman examples were brewed in Burton rather than London. However, as they were specifically for sale in the capital, I think they belong here. 

London Strong Burton Ale 1880 - 1899
Year	Brewer	Beer	OG	FG	ABV	App. Atten-uation	lbs hops/ qtr	hops lb/brl
1881	Whitbread	KKK	1089.2	1032.7	7.48	63.35%	14.13	5.84
1891	Whitbread	KKK	1087.3	1033.0	7.18	62.18%	14.07	5.70
1886	Barclay Perkins	KKK	1088.0	1024.9	8.34	71.67%	17.64	6.62
1887	Truman (Burton)	S3	1092.8	1027.7	8.61	70.15%	11.33	5.00
1897	Truman (Burton)	CS 3	1090.6	1027.7	8.32	69.42%	12.79	5.00
	Average		1089.6	1029.2	7.99	67.35%	13.99	5.63
Sources:
Whitbread brewing records held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document numbers LMA/4453/D/01/047 and LMA/4453/D/01/057.
Barclay Perkins brewing record held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document number ACC/2305/1/583.
Truman brewing records held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document numbers B/THB/BUR/11 and B/THB/C/327.

 

What is Gose?

I explain the history of a rare survivor of Germany's pre-Lager beer culture.

 

London Burton Ale boiling and fermentation 1880 - 1899

Process time now. Specifically, boiling and fermentation.

What about the boiling? Well, it’s a mixed bunch. The two Truman beers have very long boils. And lots of them. In total, they’re boiled for twelve hours. The Barclay Perkins example is not quite as bad, with boils of two and three hours.

The Whitbread and Fullers beers have rather shorter boils, mostly under two hours. Which is more typical for the period. Though beers of this strength, when brewed single-gyle, required some length of boil to concentrate the later wort.

As you would expect for beers of this gravity, the pitching temperature is mostly below 60º F. The only exception being the Barclay Perkins example, which was pitched at 60º F.

There’s a big variation in maximum fermentation temperatures. With the Fullers and Barclay Perkins beers are both well over 70º F. While the Truman examples are both just under 70º F. Which is a more typical maximum temperature.

Nothing very unusual about the length of fermentation. Which is between seven and nine days in all cases. About what you would expect for beers of this strength. 

London Burton Ale boiling and fermentation 1880 - 1899
Year	Brewer	Beer	boil time (hours)				Pitch temp	max. fermen-tation temp	length of fermen-tation (days)
1892	Barclay Perkins	KK	2	3			60º F	73.5º F	7
1881	Whitbread	KK	1.75	2.25			56º F		8
1897	Fullers	XXK	1.5	1.75			57º F	76º F	8
1887	Truman (Burton)	C5 R	3	3	3	3	56º F	69º F	8
1887	Truman (Burton)	S5	3	3	3	3	56º F	69º F	9
	Average		2.25	2.6	3	3	57º F	71.9º F	8
Sources:
Barclay Perkins brewing record held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document number ACC/2305/1/587.
Whitbread brewing record held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document number LMA/4453/D/01/047.
Fullers brewing record held at the brewery.
Truman brewing record held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document number B/THB/BUR/11.

 

London Burton Ale hops 1880 - 1899

Finally, we come to the hops. Which were mostly English. And mostly pretty fresh. With only one more than one year old.

There are two types of German hops, Hallertau and Bavarian. Which were types that were quite well regarded by UK brewers. The other foreign hops were American. Which were also well liked by UK brewers, but for a different reason. Because they were cheap.

Where specified, all but one of the English hops came from Kent. The exception being one lot of Worcester hops. Given how large the percentage of English hops which came from Worcester and Kent, it’s no real surprise that’s where the hops came from. 

London Burton Ale hops 1880 - 1899
Year	Brewer	Beer	hop 1	hop 2	hop 3	hop 4	dry hops
1892	Barclay Perkins	KK	Hallertau 1891	EK 1891
1881	Whitbread	KK	Bavarian 1881	USA 1881	English 1880	English 1881
1897	Fullers	XXK	MK 1895	EK 1896			EK 1896
1887	Truman (Burton)	C5 R	Worcester 1886	Calif. 1885	Kent 1885
1887	Truman (Burton)	S5	English 1886
Sources:
Barclay Perkins brewing record held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document number ACC/2305/1/587.
Whitbread brewing record held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document number LMA/4453/D/01/047.
Fullers brewing record held at the brewery.
Truman brewing record held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document number B/THB/BUR/11.

 

This is XXXX Ale

I explain 1832 Truman XXXX Ale. One of my favourite beers of all time. And a wonderful example of an extra-strong Mild Ale.

 

Let's Brew - 1909 Maclay PI 54/-

Maclay didn’t content themselves with brewing one watery Pale Ale. They also had a slightly less watery one, in the form of 54/-. 

With a gravity of 1041º, it’s very weak for a pre-WW I Pale Ale. Though, obviously, not as bad as 42/-. A fairly poor level of attenuation leaves it under 3.5% ABV. At a time when pretty much everything brewed in London was over 5% ABV.

The grist is very much the same as that of 42/-. Which is pale and amber malt, grits and a sugar called Greenock. There’s a bit less amber malt and a few more grits. But nothing significant.

There’s a whole load of hops again. Hallertau from the 1905, Hallertau and 1907 harvests; Californian from 1907, Farnham from 1908 and Worcester from 1905. 

1909 Maclay PI 54/-
pale malt	5.50 lb	61.97%
amber malt	0.125 lb	1.41%
grits	2.25 lb	25.35%
No. 2 invert sugar	1.00 lb	11.27%
Cluster 120 min	0.50 oz
Hallertau 60 min	0.50 oz
Fuggles 30 min	1.00 oz
Goldings dry hops	0.25 oz
OG	1041
FG	1015
ABV	3.44
Apparent attenuation	63.41%
IBU	27
SRM	6
Mash at	147º F
after underlet	152º F
Sparge at	170º F
Boil time	120 minutes
pitching temp	61.5º F
Yeast	WLP028 Edinburgh Ale

 

London Burton Ale adjuncts and sugars 1880 - 1899

There’s not much in the way of adjuncts. Only the Barclay Perkins example contains any at all: flaked rice. Which wasn’t the commonest type of adjunct, being on the expensive side. All the other beers are adjunct-free.

There are a few more sugars. And every beer contains one. Just the one. Sadly, in most cases the exact type isn’t specified in the brewing record. The exception being Barclay Perkins, where the sugar was No. 2 invert.

The percentage of sugar varies quite a bit, from 6.5% to 21%. The latter being well above the national average of around 10% in 1895. 

London Burton Ale adjuncts and sugars 1880 - 1899
Year	Brewer	Beer	flaked rice	no. 2 sugar	other sugar	total sugar
1892	Barclay Perkins	KK	12.28%	14.04%		14.04%
1881	Whitbread	KK			15.25%	15.25%
1897	Fullers	XXK			20.80%	20.80%
1887	Truman (Burton)	C5 R			6.49%	6.49%
1887	Truman (Burton)	S5			7.69%	7.69%
	Average					12.86%
Sources:
Barclay Perkins brewing record held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document number ACC/2305/1/587.
Whitbread brewing record held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document number LMA/4453/D/01/047.
Fullers brewing record held at the brewery.
Truman brewing record held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document number B/THB/BUR/11.

 

 

London Burton Ale malts 1880 - 1899

We should take a look at the ingredients. Loads? Not really. I could even have squeezed them into one table. Instead, I’ve strung them out into a massive two tables.

No example contained more than two malts. And a couple just one.

Whitbread’s KK stands out in having SA rather than pale malt as its base. SA malt produced more less-readily fermentable sugars, which was handy when you wanted to leave plenty of food for the Brettanomyces in a secondary fermentation.

Only two coloured malts poke their heads out: crystal and brown malt. The latter is a very London thing. Most breweries wouldn’t have had it lying around. Only in London, where it was still an essential ingredient in Porter and Stout.

Quite a lot of malt, generally. Almost 85%, on average. But these were expensive beers. Where you would expect less skimping on ingredients.

London Burton Ale malts 1880 - 1899
Year	Brewer	Beer	pale malt	SA malt	brown malt	crystal malt	total malt
1892	Barclay Perkins	KK	69.12%			4.56%	73.68%
1881	Whitbread	KK		84.75%			84.75%
1897	Fullers	XXK	76.64%		2.55%		79.20%
1887	Truman (Burton)	C5 R	93.51%				93.51%
1887	Truman (Burton)	S5	92.31%				92.31%
	Average						84.69%
Sources:
Barclay Perkins brewing record held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document number ACC/2305/1/587.
Whitbread brewing record held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document number LMA/4453/D/01/047.
Fullers brewing record held at the brewery.
Truman brewing record held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document number B/THB/BUR/11.

 

Let's Brew Wednesday - 1909 Maclay PI 42/-

Not only did Maclay brew a piss-weak Mild, they also had a similarly puny Pale Ale. Though, if you’re to believe the brewery designation of IP, it’s sort of an IPA. One to dribe style Nazis insane.

Before WW I a Pale Ale this weak – not even quite 3.5% ABV – was something of an exception. Even at English country breweries, where beers were generally weaker, wouldn’t have a Pale Ale quite this feeble.

The grist is very idiosyncratic, with pale malt, amber malt and grits combining.  Maclay in this period seems to have been very keen on amber malt. Using it in both Mild and Pale Ales. I can’t emphasise enough how fucking weird this is for Scotland. Amber malt rarely even turns up in Stout.

Loads of different hops again. Hallertau from the 1905, 1906 and1907 Seasons; Californian from 1907, Farnham from 1908 and Worcester from 1905. 

1909 Maclay PI 42/-
pale malt	4.75 lb	64.41%
amber malt	0.125 lb	1.69%
grits	1.50 lb	20.34%
No. 2 invert sugar	1.00 lb	13.56%
Cluster 120 min	0.50 oz
Hallertau 60 min	0.50 oz
Fuggles 30 min	0.75 oz
Goldings dry hops	0.25 oz
OG	1035
FG	1009
ABV	3.44
Apparent attenuation	74.29%
IBU	26
SRM	6
Mash at	146º F
after underlet	150º F
Sparge at	170º F
Boil time	120 minutes
pitching temp	61.5º F
Yeast	WLP028 Edinburgh Ale

 

London Burton Ale 1880 - 1899

We’re talking about standard London Burton Ale here. A beer which was usually called KK within the brewhouse.

It was one of the standard draught beers in a London pub. And, along with Stout, was usually the strongest beer on offer in cask form.

The sharper ones amongst you might have spotted that the Truman beers were brewed in Burton, not London. I’ve included them here as they were beers intended specifically for the London market. Truman did brew a KK and KKK earlier in the 19th century, but stopped after they acquired their Burton brewery in the 1870s.

You can see that the gravities were pretty consistent, varying only from 1074º to 1079º. This isn’t too much of a shock as they were all being brewed for the same market: London. While similar levels of attenuation leave them all 7% to 7.5%. Except for the Whitbread beer, which was noticeably more poorly attenuated than the others.

Hopping. Why is Truman C5 R an outlier, with a far lower hopping rate than the other examples? Because it’s a Runner. That is, an unaged beer. With S5 being the Keeper sibling. Were the two blended? Quite possibly. That definitely occurred with No. 1, the Barley Wine from Burton.

The hopping rate of the other beers is very high.  High enough to imply that they were aged before sale. That’s definitely true of Fullers XXK, which the brewing record says was vatted. My guess would be nine to twelve months of ageing. 

London Burton Ale 1880 - 1899
Year	Brewer	Beer	OG	FG	ABV	App. Atten-uation	lbs hops/ qtr	hops lb/brl
1892	Barclay Perkins	KK	1074.0	1021.1	7.00	71.55%	14.22	4.61
1881	Whitbread	KK	1075.1	1024.9	6.63	66.79%	14.09	4.82
1897	Fullers	XXK	1076.5	1020.2	7.44	73.55%	12.33	4.33
1887	Truman (Burton)	C5 R	1075.9	1019.4	7.48	74.45%	8.68	2.84
1887	Truman (Burton)	S5	1078.7	1022.2	7.48	71.83%	10.19	3.57
	Average		1076.0	1021.6	7.21	71.64%	11.90	4.04
Sources:
Barclay Perkins brewing record held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document number ACC/2305/1/587.
Whitbread brewing record held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document number LMA/4453/D/01/047.
Fullers brewing record held at the brewery.
Truman brewing record held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document number B/THB/BUR/11.

 

 

What is XXXX Ale?

I explore the history of XXXX Ale. Is it Mild Ale or Old Ale?

 

Homeward bound

I sleep pretty well and rise at 9:30. Breathing still isn't perfect. Better than yesterday, mind. I force myself to write as I didn’t yesterday.

The kids turn up at about 11:45. Checkout is noon here. Which is handy. It still leaves us with some time to kill before heading to the airport. Our flight is at 18:50. Alexei suggest Allô mon Coco, a sort of push diner we breakfasted in when we were first in Montreal.

 

We leave our roller bags at the hotel and set off. It’s only a few blocks. And all on the flat. The kids are soon miles in front of me. With me huffing and puffing along slowly behind.

The place is busier than on our last visit. With a couple of large parties. We get our arses parked and after a while a waiter drifts by to take our order. 

“Espresso martini, please.” I request.

“Aren’t you going to eat anything?” Alexei asks.

“No.” I’m not feeling great. And have no appetite.

Alexei orders a massive breakfast. And a chocolate milkshake. He has a very healthy appetite.

“Do you have beer?” Andrew asks the waiter.

“No.”

“I’ll have an Irish coffee, then. And a chocolate milkshake.”

Rather odd combination there.

“At least you’ll get some calories in you.” I remark.

“Unlike you, Dad.”

“There are calories in an espresso martini. At least, if they’ve put booze in it.”

“Alcohol calories, your favourite type.” Alexei quips.

Alexei takes his time over his breakfast. And we have another round of drinks. Not the chocolate milkshakes, obviously. That would be madness.

We leave at about 14:30, returning to the hotel for our bags. And order an Uber.

The first part of the journey goes pretty well. It doesn’t take long until the airport is in sight. And that’s exactly when the traffic crawls to a stop. The last kilometre takes us a good 20 minutes.

Checking in and security are about as pleasant as these things can be. And don’t take too long. We ditch the last of our Canadian dollars in the duty free, getting a couple of bottles of whisky. Canadian, of course.

Rather nicely, the lounge lets me bring in two guests. That’s a first.

“No need to get our money’s worth today, seeing as we didn’t have to pay.” I say cheerfully.

“Always the same jokes, eh, Dad?” Andrew replies cynically.

“At least I’m consistent.”

“Consistently telling the same bad jokes.”

“That’s what Dads are for.”

Neither me nor Andrew are very hungry. Despite the food looking pretty good. Alexei, however. is eating for all three of us. I get myself a whisky.

“I see that you haven’t lost your appetite for whisky.” Alexei quips.

“It’s purely medicinal.”

“You keep saying that.”

“Because it’s true.”

“Right. Like your ‘reasons’.”

I do have a bit of food. Quiche, a wrap. And a few more whiskies. I need to get plenty of medicine down before the flight.

“Really, Dad?” Alexei says.

“Did I say that out loud?”

“Yes, you really did say that out loud. You really are going senile.”

We get to the gate just about as boarding is starting. Though there isn’t an air bridge. Just one of those weird bus things that can lift up to the height of the cabin doors.

The seat next to me is free. Which is great, leaving me more room to stretch out.

I sleep for most of the flight. Waking up with just about enough time to watch The Other Woman. Which is an OK aeroplane film. If you know what I mean. Not too demanding.

Alexei has to part from me and Andrew when we approach passport control. As he doesn’t have a Dutch passport yet. He’s using his ID card to enter and can’t use the electronic gates.

We’ve already retrieved our bags by the time Alexei appears. In minutes we’re bombing onto the motorway in a taxi.

Dolores is waiting for us at home. With tea, of course. There’s always tea.
 

Allô mon Coco
70 Rue Sainte-Catherine E,
Montréal, QC H2X 0C7.
https://allomoncoco.com/locations/allo-mon-coco-ste-catherine-e/

 

Montreal return

I wake at 5:30 barely able to breathe. Fuck. Just as well I got some more cold medicine yesterday.

The kids turn up at 10:30.

"What's wrong, Dad?" Andrew asks.

“Having trouble breathing.”

“Don't expect me to carry all your bags.”

That's so sympathetic of Andrew. Luckily, I have a roller bag. No carrying required. Just as fucking well.

We check out and get an Uber surprisingly quickly. Not directly to the station, but to La Barberie, a brewpub close by. We have to wait 15 minutes or so for then to open.

It's much more rough and ready than the other brewpubs we've been to. We all get an IPA. Which is pretty sludgy. I can't manage all of mine and the kids finish it for me. How humiliating is that?

It’s just a short walk to the station. But it still gets me out of breath.

The kids are soon metres ahead of me.

“Hurry up, Dad.” Andrew says.

I want to shout “Fuck off!” to him. But don’t have the breath. I just flick some Vs at him instead. Not that he notices.

It’s a lovely old station. Quite small, but with lots of turrets. The diminutive business class lounge is in a modern extension. It’s so tiny, it doesn’t even have its own bogs.

We hang around in the lounge for a while. I drink coffee, which livens me up a bit. Though not a lot.

We're in the same seats as usual. Soon after the train pulls out of the station, the drinks trolley comes around, I get a gin and tonic, the kids Steam Whistle Pilsner. Which seems appropriate for a train.

“I see you haven’t lost your appetite for alcohol.” Alexei remarks.

“It’s purely medicinal.”

“Right.”

I quite like these Via Rail trains. Nice and comfy. And the service in business class is pretty good. With pretty decent wifi. They do have a habit of running late, though.

I have my flipflop fired up and watch some YouTube. With the sound off and subtitles on. Because I’m not a twat. And there have been announcements saying it’s not allowed to have the sound on without headphones.

I don't eat much of my meal. Which is cheese and crackers. Dead good cheese. That’s how little appetite I have. Alexei eats most of mine. I do manage to force down two glasses of red wine.

“I suppose that’s medicinal, too.” Alexei remarks.

“Exactly.”

“I was taking the piss.”

“I know.”

It starts raining about an hour before we get to Montreal. Really pissing it down. Lovely. Thankfully, it’s covered where we’re picked up by our Uber.

We laze around a bit in my room. The kids fetch some food from Tim Horton's. I get a sandwich which I actually manage to eat. Hooray for me! I still feel shit, mind.

We drink some beer and whisky, then crash out. It's been a very frustrating day. I hope I can breathe better tomorrow.

 
La Barberie
310 Rue Saint-Roch, 
Québec, QC G1K 2S7.
http://www.labarberie.com/
 

Let's Brew - 1909 Maclay Mild 56/-

In addition to their watery 42/- Mild, Maclay also had a much stronger version, 64/- Mild. Which is interesting. As this beer is stronger than most Milds of the time, about the equivalent of a provincial English XXX.

Surprisingly, it was brewed in much larger quantities than 42/-. Around 70 barrels at a time, compared to 30 barrels of 42/-. Though still far less than the popular Pale Ales.

There’s not a huge deal to say about the recipe, this being parti-gyled with the 42/- we’ve already seen.

You’ve probably noticed the really shit level of attenuation. A bit under 60%. There are examples with a slightly lower FG of 1023º or 1024º. Not that it makes the rate of attenuation that much better. A couple of weeks in cask before consumption would have reduced the gravity a little more. Though that still wouldn’t have had that much impact on the attenuation.

1909 Maclay Mild 56/-
pale malt	8.75 lb	66.67%
amber malt	0.50 lb	3.81%
black malt	0.125 lb	0.95%
grits	2.50 lb	19.05%
No. 2 invert sugar	1.25 lb	9.52%
Cluster 120 min	0.75 oz
Hallertau 60 min	0.75 oz
Fuggles 30 min	1.50 oz
OG	1061
FG	1025
ABV	4.76
Apparent attenuation	59.02%
IBU	36
SRM	12
Mash at	146º F
after underlet	150º F
Sparge at	170º F
Boil time	120 minutes
pitching temp	61º F
Yeast	WLP028 Edinburgh Ale