Thursday, 4 June 2026

London draught beers in the late 1930s

A Taylor Walker Oatmeal Stout label.
Lucky old London had a pretty decent range of draught beers available in the 1930s. Around a dozen, split over Mild Ales, Pale Ales, Burton Ales, Porters and Stouts. 

Were all the London brewers knocking out a dozen different draught beers? No, they weren’t. I haven’t found one brewery that produced every single type. My favourite Barclay Perkins comes closest with nine.

One slight caveat: for brewers where I don’t have brewing records, there may well be some beers missing. In those cases, I’m dependent on the Whitbread and Truman Gravity Books. And which beers those two brewers bothered to get analysed.

Only one type of beer was produced by every brewery: 7d Pale Ale. The equivalent of Ordinary Bitter.  All but Fullers produced a 5d Mild Ale. Unsurprising, as X Ale was the most popular type of beer. Unless they blended it up from the other two Mild Ales.

Most brewers also had a cheaper, 4d Mild Ale. It’s an interesting one, that. As I know that the quantities brewed by Whitbread and Barclay Perkins were pretty modest. Far less than of the 5d version. It’s interesting that continued to brew it, even though the market was quite small. Without parti-gyling, it probably wouldn’t have been financially viable.

It’s fascinating that ten of the twelve breweries were still making a Porter. Despite sales collapsing disastrously after WW I.

The more expensive type of Burton Ale, the 8d version, was pretty popular, too. Every brewery produced at least one Burton Ale. And several brewers made both a 7d and an 8d version.

Fullers was unique in having no draught Stout. Really odd, that. Every other brewer had one either in the 7d or 8d class.

Every brewery had at least one of these types: Mild Ale, Pale Ale, Burton Ale, Porter/Stout. Which I suppose makes sense, as that would be the typical range of draught beers in a London pub. 

London draught beers in the late 1930s
type price per pint OG BP Ch C F M C M TW T Wa We Wh Y
Ale 4d 1030 X X X X X X   X X   X X
X 5d 1036 X X X   X X X X X X X X
XX 6d 1042 X     X X              
PA 6d 1042     X X               X
PA 7d 1048 X X X X X X X X X X X X
PA 8d 1054 X X X X X       X X    
KK 7d 1048   X     X X   X X X    
KK 8d 1054 X X X X X   X     X X X
KKK >10d >1070 X     X               X
Porter 5d 1036 X X X X   X X X   X X X
Stout 7d 1048   X X   X X   X X X X  
Stout 8d 1054 X           X X       X
Sources:
A Whitbread 1934 price list
Truman Gravity Book held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document number B/THB/C/252.
Whitbread Gravity book held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document number LMA/4453/D/02/001.
Fuller's brewing records held at the brewery
Young's brewing record held at Battersea Library, document number YO/RE/1/8.
Barclay Perkins brewing record held at the London Metropolitan Archives, document number ACC/2305/01/622.

 

Brewery key:
BP Barclay Perkins
Ch Charrington
C Courage
F Fullers
M C Mann Crossman
M Meux
TW Taylor Walker
T Truman
Wa Watney
We Wenlock
Wh Whitbread
Y Young

 

 

Wednesday, 3 June 2026

Let's Brew Wednesday - 1940 Youngs XXXX Ale

A Young's Burton Ale label featuring a drawing of a ram.
I’m lumping this in with the 1939 brews because . . well, I don’t have an example from 1939 and this was brewed barely into 1940, on January 19th.

Surprisingly, the gravity is a couple of degrees higher than in 1932, at a very impressive 1081º.  That’s very high for a draught beer, which is what I believe this was. The quantities brewed were also reasonably large: this batch, for example, was of 51 barrels.

Before WW I,  KK, a standard Burton Ale, was almost as strong as this. The versions from Whitbread and Barclay Perkins were both around 1075º. What a glorious time to have been alive. Little wonder they had so many problems with drunkenness.

No shock, on the other hand, that it was parti-gyled with XXX and X Though the recipe of this brew was slightly different from some others, in that the base malt was 100% mild malt. Rather than a mix of mild and pale malt.

There were two types of Kent hops, both from the 1938 harvest, one of which had been cold stored. 

1940 Youngs XXXX Ale
mild malt 13.75 lb 80.29%
crystal malt 120 L 1.375 lb 8.03%
malt extract 0.50 lb 2.92%
No. 3 invert sugar 1.375 lb 8.03%
caramel 1000 SRM 0.125 lb 0.73%
Fuggles 120 min 2.00 oz
Fuggles 30 min 2.00 oz
OG 1081
FG 1030
ABV 6.75
Apparent attenuation 62.96%
IBU 38
SRM 26
Mash at 153º F
Sparge at 170º F
Boil time 120 minutes
pitching temp 58º F
Yeast WLP002 English Ale

 

Tuesday, 2 June 2026

What is Burton Ale?

Another of my short videos. This time looking at Burton Ale, a London staple for the first half of the 20th century. Today, sadly, just a single example exists: Young's Winter Warmer.

 

Augustiner Edelstoff

An Augustiner Heller Maibock poster with a drawing of a goat.
Since the weather has turned warm, I've mostly been drinking Augustiner Edelstoff on my weekly visit to Butcher's Tears.

It's a lovely drinking beer. Light, but with enough flavour to jkeep you interested. Perfect for casual afternoon drinking. Nothing too distracting.

I do love Austiner's beers.It's hard to beat their Helles when it's served Bayerischer Anstich (straight from a wooden cask). But it's a very delicate beer that doesn't come over as well in the bottle. Edelstoff fares much better.

What style of beer is Edelstoff? I'd call it a Spexial. A pale Lager that's stronger than a Helles. Many Bavarian breweries make one. With a gravity of around 13º Plato and 5.6% ABV.

The classic way would be to call the weaker one a Helles Lagerbier and the stronger one a Helles Export. Though that system has largely broken down since WW II. Agustner do call their standard beer Helles Lagerbier. So ther eis still that.

I'm glad I can get hold of a decent Lager when I'm out. It's depressingly difficult in Amsterdam. Mostly, it's just Pils of varying degrees of awfulness. Edelstoff is a class better. And better class.

I thought you might want a change from Youngs. If only for a day. 

Monday, 1 June 2026

Youngs beers in 1939

A Youngs Pale Ale label featuring a drawing of a ram.
Let’s take look at Young’s beers just as WW II was erupting.

The brewing records have eight beers, split into four groups: 2 Mild Ales, 2 Pale Ales, Porter and Stout, 2 Strong Ales. Quite neat, that. These were brewed in three parti-gyles, the Pale Ales, Porter and Stout, Mild and Strong Ales. Again, very neat.

There are still two Mild Ales, A and X Looking like typical 4d and 5d per pint beers. Some London brewers, such as Barclay Perkins, also had a Mild Ale in the 6d per pint class, clocking in at 1043º.  At least watery A was just about intoxicating, at just a sliver under 3% ABV.

The two Pale Ales are 6d and 7d per pint beers. As with the Mild Ales, the top-class draught version – an 8d per pint beer – is missing. Barclay Perkins did have an example of this type, called simply PA, which had a gravity of 1053º.  

There’s been a general reduction in hopping rates since 1932, Mild and Strong Ales are down by about 1 lb per quarter (336 lbs) of malt. The Pale Ales are down by a couple of pounds. That brew of PA was a single-gyle outlier. Usually, the rate was 8 lbs per quarter. The only beers where the hopping remained unchanged were Porter and Stout.

The rate of attenuation looks lower than in 1932. I wouldn’t read too much into that. Final gravities are all over the place in the brewing records. There was considerable variation between brews. Starting gravities, on the other hand, are exactly the same, every time. That’s the joy of parti-gyling. Total control of OG.

I’m quite surprised by the quantities of Porter brewed. More than of the Stout. With batches as large as 90 barrels. Whitbread, a much larger brewery, had Porter brewed just 20 to 50 barrels at a time. Was all Youngs Porter sold on draught? Or bottled as some sort of Stout?

The Stout, for once, is full strength, as an 8d per pint beer. Many London brewers – Whitbread, Watney, Charrington and Courage, for example – lacked a draught Stout in this class.  

XXX is a typical London draught Burton Ale. Or, at least, a typical 8d per pint version. These were in the mid-1050ºs. Whilst 7d per pint examples were around 1048º. 

A couple of other brewers in London had offerings around the same strength as XXXX. Barclay Perkins had KKKK at 1078.5º.  And Fullers Old Burton Extra, a little weaker, at 1069º.  Both XXXX and KKKK were seasonal beers, only sold in the colder months.  

Youngs beers in 1939
Beer Style OG FG ABV App. Atten-uation lbs hops/ qtr hops lb/brl
A Mild 1029 1006.6 2.96 77.08% 6.14 0.71
X Mild 1035 1007.8 3.60 77.84% 6.19 0.85
PA Pale Ale 1048 1011.1 4.88 76.92% 10.45 1.99
PAB Pale Ale 1039 1009.4 3.88 75.71% 7.98 1.22
P Porter 1035 1011.1 3.16 68.34% 7.00 0.97
S Stout 1053 1017.2 4.74 67.60% 7.00 1.47
XXX Strong Ale 1057 1019.4 4.98 65.98% 5.86 1.33
XXXX Strong Ale 1081 1029.9 6.76 63.07% 5.86 1.90
Source:
Young's brewing record held at Battersea Library, document number YO/RE/1/8.

 

Sunday, 31 May 2026

What is English Brown Ale?

Another of my little videos. This time explaining the shooting star of a beeer style, English Brown Ale.

 

Cost price of Young's beers in 1939/1940

A Youngs Oatmeal Stout label featuring a drawing of a ram.
It seems that Youngs had more than eight beers in their range. In the last page of the brewing record there’s a table of cost prices (at least, that’s what I assume they are) of all their beers. And there are twelve of them.

Where did the other four come from? My guess is that they are the bottled beers. Tweaked versions of the draught beers. And hence not in the brewing books.

OS (Oatmeal Stout) and FS (probably Family Stout) must have been magicked up from the Porter and Stout. Probably by blending the two together in different proportions. That might explain the large quantity of Porter being brewed.

Bot. PA looks like it was just a bottled version of PAB. Though wasn’t that a bottling beer? Maybe there was a draught version of PAB, too. AA? I’ve no idea what that was. Some sort of Pale Ale? Or Brown Ale? Could it be X with 2º added in primings?

The price immediately jumps after September 1939, when war broke out. An emergency budget raised the tax on beer from 80/- per standard barrel (36 Imperial gallons with an OG of 1055º) to 104/-. Prompting quite a large increase in the cost price.

There was a further increase in the tax in April 1940 to 135/- per standard barrel. Resulting in another leap in the cost price in May 1940. One which would have been greater, had Youngs not reduced the gravity of all their beer by 1º that month. 

Cost price of Young's beers in 1939/1940
Beer XXXX XXX X A PA PAB S P Bot. PA AA OS FS
OG 1080 1057 1035 1029 1048 1039 1053 1035 1039 1037 1046 1037
July - 97/1 49/8 35/3 79/2 57/6 94/4 53/- 57/6 51/4 72/5 52/-
August - 97/11 49/11 35/2 79/5 57/3 92/7 55/- 57/3 51/5 74/5 53/-
September 151/3 98/1 52/1 37/7 81/5 59/8 92/9 54/4 59/8 52/7 73/4 53/-
October - 116/4 73/3 59/1 103/- 78/11 119/- 80/1 78/11 73/7 98/11 75/-
November 178/1 119/2 73/7 59/6 103/3 79/4 120/11 74/5 79/4 73/7 94/5 71/6
December 178/4 123/1 75/- 59/4 103/1 79/7 120/9 78/6 79/7 73/9 96/9 74/2
January 181/6 124/- 73/8 60/10 102/- 80/10 121/9 81/3 80/10 72/- 98/8 77/-
February 175/2 121/8 74/- 59/6 104/- 81/7 120/3 80/8 81/7 73/4 97/11 78/-
March 184/4 122/4 76/1 59/8 105/2 80/5 123/6 81/10 83/2 72/11 102/4 79/4
  - - 96/5 78/8 126/5 103/1 158/9 - 103/1 91/9 136/4 105/1
April 174/7 125/1 78/4 62/- 106/- 80/8 128/5 83/2 83/5 74/- 106/4 83/4
May - 146/10 96/- 77/4 125/11 102/11 156/9 104/3 102/11 91/3 130/- 101/6
June - 151/10 93/4 81/- 128/5 102/8 156/- 106/8 102/8 92/3 131/- 105/6
Source:
Young's brewing record held at Battersea Library, document number YO/RE/1/8.

 

 

Saturday, 30 May 2026

Let's Brew - 1939 Youngs XXX Ale

A Youngs Burton Ale label featuring a drawing of a ram.
Parti-gyled with the two Mild Ales was XXX, Young’s Burton Ale. What eventually became Winter Warmer. Though, at this point it must have been a year-round beer, as this example was brewed in July.

With a gravity in the mid 1050ºs, it’s a typical 8d per pint beer. It also looks very much like a pre-WW I London X Ale. It’s an indication of just how much WW I knocked down the strength of Mild Ale.

Obviously, the recipe is essentially the same as for X and A. With a base that’s a combination of mild malt and pale malt. Along with some crystal malt for body and colour. And malt extract for extra enzymes. Additional colour comes from No. 3 invert sugar and caramel.

There are two types of Kent hops, one from the 1937 harvest and one from 1938. 

1939 Youngs XXX Ale
pale malt 2.25 lb 18.49%
mild malt 7.75 lb 63.68%
crystal malt 120 L 0.75 lb 6.16%
malt extract 0.33 lb 2.71%
No. 3 invert sugar 1.00 lb 8.22%
caramel 1000 SRM 0.09 lb 0.74%
Fuggles 120 min 1.50 oz
Fuggles 30 min 1.50 oz
OG 1057
FG 1024
ABV 4.37
Apparent attenuation 57.89%
IBU 33
SRM 19
Mash at 153º F
Sparge at 170º F
Boil time 120 minutes
pitching temp 59º F
Yeast WLP002 English Ale

 

Friday, 29 May 2026

What is parti-gyling?

I explain parti-gyling. Real parti-gyling, as performed by traditional UK breweries. And, no, it doesn't mean using each running to make a different beer.

 

Back from my holidays

I recently returned from a trip to Bangkok and Saigon. I would write the trip up. Except that it wasn't really a beery trip. And it was with Mikey.

Just so you aren't disappointed, I am going to post pictures of my breakfasts. As I know you always look forward to those. Quite a diverse set of breakfasts compared to those on my South American trips. 

I would also post photos of all the beers I drank. Except there weren't that many of them And most of them were crap. Just boring, industrial Pale Lager. I mostly drank cocktails. Why? Because I'm a decadent bastard.

Anyway, here are the breakfasts. In chronological order.


A bacon baguette.

Two bacon baguettes and a cocktail.

Some pork thing, rice and a glass of whisky and coke.

Two eggs over easy, bacon and a cup of coffee.

Two eggs over easy and bits of baguette.

Two eggs over easy and bits of baguette.

Two different types of fruit on a plate.

Chunks of watermelon on a plate.

A bacon baguette.
Scrambled egg and fried potato.

 

 

 

Thursday, 28 May 2026

Long service at Youngs

A Youngs Burton Ale label featuring a drawing of a ram.
Nowadays, people flit around jobs, moving every few years. When I was younger, I can remember workers clocking up fifty years’ service. But raising the school-leaving age to 16 and compulsory retirement at 65 mostly put an end to that. Along with the destruction of Britain’s manufacturing industry in the 1970s and 1980s. (Thank you Mrs. Thatcher for that.)

This is even more impressive. Mr. Cornish managed 60 years at Youngs. And undoubtedly more, as he wasn’t retiring, even after such long service. Though that might have been because he couldn’t afford to. Pensions weren’t great back in the 1930s.

SIXTY YEARS IN-A BREWERY.
Fine Record at Wandsworth

Sixty tiny candles, all green, were lighted on the top of a huge cake in the coopers' shop of the Ram Brewery, Wandsworth, yesterday afternoon. Merrily they blazed, showing up the chocolate icing and the green ornaments, and the model of a shire horse. Chocolate and green are the Ram Brewery colours. It was whispered yesterday, though not as an established fact, that years ago they were the proprietor's racing colours. Mr. John Cornish could, perhaps, have said something about that. It was in honour of Mr. Cornish that the cake was made and the candles were lighted. He has been with the firm 60 years, though nobody would think it to look at him. A lot of fine, hale, young fellows were assembled yesterday afternoon, but scarcely any of them had a keener eye or a firmer expression than Mr. John Cornish, for all his 76 years. Whoever has seen and admired the great horses that draw the drays from Wandsworth Brewery has seen evidence of Mr Cornish's ability and good service. He is the foreman horsekeeper, and apparently he is likely to discharge that office for many a year to come. Sixty years is a long time for a man to be in one job. Mr. Cornish holds the record at the brewery; and the brewery is proud of it and of him.

The presentation of the cake and of a silver bowl for flowers - Mr. Cornish loves flowers - was made to him yesterday afternoon by Mr. Daniels, the bead brewer. Mr. Cornish was called on to cut the cake. He would rather, we believe, have tackled a horse, for he is

A VERY MODEST MAN, 
and the cake, being solid, required heavy pressure on the big knife. There appeared to be some hesitation on his part in entering the building in which the ceremony took place, but two sturdy chaps, mere boys as it were, took him one by each arm and marched him to a seat at the chairman's table. Loud was the handclapping from the onlookers, typical brewery men, strong, determined, and more than a little disposed to be cynical with regard to the critics and detractors of their calling.

Sixty years ago, when John Cornish took service at Young's Brewery, Wandsworth was smaller than it is now. Mechanical traffic, however, had scarcely been thought of; therefore there was no lack of horses to be attended to, horses that then were the pride of the district. There were, as the company learned yesterday, “right handed horses and left handed horses " — horses that would go only towards the “Ram” and others whose house of call was the “Bull". At some houses, probably, they disdained to pause at all, for in those days "home-brew'd beer“ and "well air'd beds" still lingered.

In honour of Mr. Cornish, the room yesterday was plentifully beflagged and the slogan “Beer is best," was prominently displayed. More than that, beer was served and that not in any niggard fashion, but was poured from big copper cans. There did not appear to be any teetotallers present, though the company were so stalwart and so healthy. Several of the draymen made up their minds to beat the record of Mr. John Cornish, whose health they heartily drank.
 

A Youngs Pale Ale label featuring a drawing of a ram.

A LIFE-SAVER

A brave man as well as a strong man he is, for it was told how during one bitter winter be saved a colleague who had fallen through the ice of the frozen Wandle. He still looks after 28 horses.

The flower bowl was inscribed "1875-1935. Presented to John Cornish by his fellow workmen at the Ram Brewery." Mr. Cornish had previously been presented with a cheque from his firm.

Among those present were Mr. W. Gooding, the foreman of the bottling stores, who has been with the firm since 1905; Mr. C. F. Hayes, a former clerk in the Arm. with 42 years' service: Mr. G. N. Parsons (second brewer), and Miss V. Cornish, Mr. Cornish's daughter.

Mr. Daniels called upon Mr. Hayes, who, he said, was almost as young as Mr. Cornish — (laughter) — to say a few words.

Mr. Hayes said he was Mr. Cornish's oldest friend, although, perhaps, some of them might have known Mr. Cornish longer than him. “I have been 60 years in the brewery trade." Mr. Hayes continued. “18 years at Croydon and 42 years here. Mr. Cornish and I both went into the liquor trade at the same time. Almost

77 YEARS AGO
we both went in for mother's milk (Laughter.) We grew up to grow whiskers and when the beaver crisis came along and the young men shaved their faces until they looked like a lot of babies, Mr. Cornish and I remained true to type." Mr. Hayes recalled an incident that happened many years ago, when the Cut was frozen. While they were all sliding on the ice it cracked and everybody rushed off except Cock Wingrove, who fell through, and Mr. Cornish. who stayed to try and save him. He (Mr. Hayes) fetched a plank. Mr. Cornish crawled along it and pulled Wingrove to safety. That showed that Mr. Cornish was a man, and a white man.

HIS WONDERFUL RECORD.
Mr. Daniels, on behalf of Mr. Cornish's colleagues, then presented him with the flower bowl as a small mark of their esteem and appreciation, and what they thought of his wonderful record. He hoped Mr. Cornish would live for a long time.

"I didn't think I should have this to say 60 years ago." said Mr. Cornish, after his health had been drunk. "You have all behaved very kindly to me as fellow workmen. I must thank you for all you have done for me to-day. I can't say much about it. You all know me. I have done my best for everybody and they have done their best for me."

Mr. Parsons thanked Mr. Daniela for making the presentation, and also thanked Mr. Hayes. He added that they were also very pleased to see Miss Cornish.
South Western Star - Friday 15 February 1935, page 10.

At more go-ahead breweries, Mr. Cornish might well have been out of a job by 1935, as lorries replaced horse-drawn drays. Youngs were particularly old-fashioned in this respect, still using horses right up until the brewery closed in 2006.

Though, given the brewery’s location and the close proximity of most of their tied houses, using horses did make some economic sense. Horses not burning fuel when stuck in traffic. Something which wasn’t unusual in London.
 

Wednesday, 27 May 2026

Let's Brew Wednesday - 1939 Youngs PA

A Youngs Pale Ale label featuring a drtawing of a ram.
Moving on up to draught Bitter, it’s a little bit stronger than in 1932, when the OG was a little lower at 1046º. Hooray!

What I find fascinating, is that it’s a very similar strength to post-war Special Bitter. That tells me something. Special was an attempt to reintroduce pre-war Bitter. A very laudable aim, if you ask me. But not unique to Youngs. Several other London brewers did something similar. For example, Fullers and Watneys. 

A decent strength beer, then. About the same as a continental Pilsner. Which is what all the hip young things were drinking in Europe. Whereas most of Youngs drinkers were slurping down Mild.

Want to know something about the recipe? Refer to the PAB above. With which this was parti-gyled. Youngs were dead into parti-gyling at this point. Single-gyle brews were pretty rare. Limited to just X Ale and PA. 

1939 Youngs PA
pale malt 8.50 lb 85.00%
malt extract 0.25 lb 2.50%
No. 1 invert sugar 1.25 lb 12.50%
Fuggles 120 min 1.125 oz
Fuggles 60 min 1.125 oz
Goldings 30 min 1.125 oz
OG 1048
FG 1011.5
ABV 4.83
Apparent attenuation 76.04%
IBU 42
SRM 6
Mash at 153º F
Sparge at 174º F
Boil time 120 minutes
pitching temp 60º F
Yeast WLP002 English Ale