The decline of top-fermenting beer in Germany

We're back with Schönfeld, this time looking at the decline in top fermentation in the 19th century. Though, as we'll see in a minute, the real situation was more nuanced than he makes out.

"d) Development since the beginning of the 19th century
Like the number of local beers, the number of top-fermenting breweries, and the turnover of the breweries of top-fermented beers, decreased. A look at the statistics shows the extent to which conditions in Germany have changed over the past 100 years.

100 years ago, with only a few exceptions, there were only top-fermenting breweries in northern Germany. In Bohemia, too, the top-fermented method of preparation prevailed until the middle of the last century. Only in Bavaria were there bottom-fermenting ones in large numbers. Here, as in Baden and Württemberg, top fermentation soon gave way the bottom fermentation, and only a few businesses remained that brewed in the top fermentation way. What they brewed was wheat beer, which is still enjoyed in some places as a light, clear, carbonated, non-acidic beer."

Top fermentation lasted longer in northern Germany, but had to recede more and more with time before bottom fermentation. In 1873, top-fermenting beers accounted for 40% of total beer production. In 1900 only 17%, and now the proportion of top-fermenting beers is no more than 4%.

All top-fermenting beers that were brewed until around 1900 took shared in the decline."
"Obergärige Biere und ihre Herstellung" by Dr. Franz Schönfeld, 2nd edition, Verlag von Paul Parey, Berlin, 1938, page 130.

This table shows a slightly different story. Though, unfortunately, it only covers a period of 20 years. Between 1882 and 1901, the quantity of top-fermenting beer being produced remained fairly constant. But that meant a proportional decline as overall beer production was increasing rapidly.

Beer production in the Brausteuergebied
	top fermenting		bottom fermenting
Year	hl	%	hl	%
1882	7,901,207	36	14,211,973	64
1887	8,503,919	31	18,971,927	69
1892	7,664,889	23	25,498,919	77
1897	7,777,049	19	33,654,123	81
1898	7,566,770	18	34,698,630	82
1899	7,280,851	17	35,925,271	83
1900	7,428,980	17	37,300,826	83
1901	7,322,999	16	37,712,996	84
Source:
Jahresbericht über die Leistungen der chemischen Technologie, 1903 page 446.

Certain top-fermenting beers cannot be served on draught, for example, Berliner Weisse, Grätzer, Gose. The serving of bottled beer in the taverns, however, does not allow for quick service - and often enough there are cases in which the quickestk service is required - because beer containing yeast must be carefully poured into the glass. It takes time. Far too much in busy periods. Reason enough for landlords to move away from such a beer more and more. Customers had no desire for such a beer, the serving of which put their patience to the test."
"Obergärige Biere und ihre Herstellung" by Dr. Franz Schönfeld, 2nd edition, Verlag von Paul Parey, Berlin, 1938, page 130. 

Odd now to thank that Gose, which is on tap from Sydney too Vancouver, for most of its life was exclusively sold in bottled form. His main point - that bottled beer takes much longer to serve - is true. If the server is pouring it into the glass. If they just whip open the bottle and hand it over, it's just as quick as serving a draught. Personally, I always prefer to pour a bottle-conditioned beer myself. After all my years drinking St. Bernardus, I can pour better than most bar staff.