Just for a change, I'm not going to bang on about weird, forgotten top-fermenting styles. Today we're in Lagerland, looking at a beer that was once as mainstream as it gets. Export was for a large chunk of the 20th century, the best-selling type of beer in Germany. Until it went out of fashion and the German public's affection switched to Pils.
Export. The name has nothing to do with being shipped abroad. Like Lagerbier, Märzen and Bock, Export is an indication of strength. Export slotted between Lagerbier and Märzen in the strength hierarchy. At one time it would have been a minimum of 13º Plato (around 1052º). As it's popularity eroded after 1970, so did its gravity. Many current examples are barely 12º Plato (around 1048º).
As with those other gravity-related terms, Export came in a variety of colours. The classic Dunkles of Munich was originally a Dunkles Export. But as dark Lagers became more rare, the older distinction between Dunkles Lagerbier and Dunkles Export became irrelevant and fell into disuse. As usual, the style nazis have chosen a single variation - Dortmunder Export - as representing the whole style. Just ignore them and listen to me. I know what I'm talking about. Honest.
Almost forgot. At the time when Vienna Lagers were actually brewed in Austria, you also had amber Export. But these beers, as far as I am aware, disappeared yonks ago. Unless, of course, you count some of the higher-gravity amber Lagers brewed ion the Czech Republic.
Here's a pretty random selection of Exports from across the decades:
German Export | |||||||||
Year | Brewer | Beer | Style | Acidity | FG | OG | Colour | ABV | attenuation |
1884 | Export | Export | 0.183 | 1014.6 | 1065.6 | 6.96 | 76.68% | ||
1890 | Aktienexportbierbrauerei, Kulmbach | Helles Exportbier | Export | 0.15 | 1016.1 | 1064.6 | 6.31 | 75.02% | |
1890 | Aktienexportbierbrauerei, Kulmbach | Dunkles | Export | 1029.2 | 1080.4 | 6.63 | 63.67% | ||
2004 | August, | Export | Export | 1010.4 | 1050.3 | 5.20 | 78.56% | ||
1930 | average of 14 samples | Export Dortmunder | Export | 1012.2 | 1054.0 | 0.73 | 5.39 | 76.44% | |
1901 | Brauhaus Würzburg | Export Beer | Export | 0.099 | 1020.9 | 1061.1 | 5.09 | 64.40% | |
1961 | Dortmunder - Hansa | Dortmunder Urtyp | Export | 0.04 | 1006.7 | 1053.7 | 9.5 | 5.88 | 87.52% |
1890 | Gebrüder Lederer, Nürnberg | Exportbier | Export | 1020.4 | 1059.8 | 5.10 | 65.89% | ||
1900 | German | Export | Export | 1018.1 | 1053.6 | 4.60 | 65.06% | ||
1900 | German | Export | Export | 1019.1 | 1059.1 | 5.19 | 66.51% | ||
1930 | German | Foreign Export Beer | Export | 1007.8 | 1048.0 | 0.66 | 5.20 | 83.03% | |
1930 | German | Foreign Export Beer | Export | 1009.0 | 1051.8 | 0.47 | 5.42 | 81.78% | |
1898 | Hamburger | Export | Export | 1012.7 | 1046.0 | 4.28 | 71.52% | ||
1898 | Export | Export | 1013.2 | 1050.7 | 4.70 | 73.10% | |||
1884 | Henninger, | Export | Export | 0.148 | 1013.8 | 1059.3 | 5.76 | 75.72% | |
1885 | Kulmbacher | Export | Export | 1029.8 | 1072.3 | 5.48 | 57.10% | ||
1887 | Kulmbacher | Export | Export | 1017.5 | 1062.3 | 5.81 | 70.59% | ||
1884 | Kulmbacher Actien | Export | Export | 0.18 | 1025.1 | 1068.1 | 5.39 | 61.56% | |
1879 | Löwenbräu, | Export | Export | 0.23 | 1014.0 | 1055.5 | 5.25 | 73.76% | |
1901 | Löwenbräu, | Export | Export | 1016.1 | 1054.7 | 5.01 | 69.48% | ||
2004 | Paulaner | Urtyp | Export | 1008.2 | 1050.3 | 5.50 | 83.04% | ||
1885 | Pschorr, | Export | Export | 0.14 | 1017.9 | 1057.0 | 5.00 | 67.31% | |
1896 | Pschorr, | Export | Export | 0.108 | 1024.0 | 1057.8 | 4.34 | 57.08% | |
1897 | Pschorr, | Export | Export | 0.045 | 1020.5 | 1056.7 | 4.64 | 62.57% | |
1901 | Pschorr, | Export | Export | 0.072 | 1017.2 | 1053.5 | 4.65 | 66.82% | |
1878 | Robby, Nürnberg | Export | Export | 0.21 | 1017.5 | 1054.3 | 4.71 | 66.49% | |
1885 | Sedlmayer, | Export | Export | 0.18 | 1017.7 | 1064.6 | 6.13 | 71.29% | |
1879 | Spaten, | Export | Export | 1019.7 | 1055.4 | 4.61 | 63.14% | ||
1879 | Spaten, | Export | Export | 0.19 | 1019.7 | 1055.7 | 4.68 | 63.33% | |
1890 | Spatenbräu, München | Exportbier | Export | 1015.5 | 1057.8 | 5.50 | 73.27% | ||
1930 | strongest sample | Export Dortmunder | Export | 1014.3 | 1057.2 | 0.84 | 5.58 | 73.85% | |
1895 | Thüringer | Export | Export | 0.09 | 1013.4 | 1050.7 | 4.70 | 72.60% | |
1898 | Thüringer | Export | Export | 1009.0 | 1040.3 | 3.89 | 76.83% | ||
1895 | Tucher, Nürnberg | Export | Export | 0.135 | 1020.1 | 1062.2 | 5.39 | 66.30% | |
1870 | Unknown, | Export | Export | 1018.1 | 1058.6 | 5.25 | 69.11% | ||
1898 | Unknown, Nürnberg | Export | Export | 1020.0 | 1057.7 | 4.85 | 64.09% | ||
1930 | weakest sample | Export Dortmunder | Export | 1009.4 | 1051.2 | 0.66 | 5.08 | 80.88% | |
1870's | Weihenstephan | Export | Export | 2.00 | 4.05 | 0.00% | |||
1870 | Weihenstephaner | Export | Export | 1018.9 | 1049.9 | 4.00 | 62.12% | ||
1890 | Weihenstephaner | Exportbier | Export | 1025.9 | 1057.4 | 4.05 | 54.85% | ||
1878 | Wladschlösschen, | Export | Export | 0.17 | 1014.8 | 1052.5 | 4.49 | 70.81% | |
1879 | Wladschlösschen, | Export | Export | 0.2 | 1018.5 | 1068.3 | 6.20 | 71.56% | |
2004 | August, | Festbier | Festbier | 1011.6 | 1054.6 | 5.60 | 77.93% | ||
Sources: "Bericht über die Entwickelung der chemischen Industrie während des letzten Jahrzehends" by August Wilhelm von Hofmann, 1877, page 382 "Chemie der menschlichen Nahrungs- und Genussmittel" by Joseph König, 1879, pages 147 - 158 "Handbuch der chemischen technologie" by Otto Dammer, Rudolf Kaiser, 1896, pages 696-697 "Van Brouwerij tot Bierglas" by F. Kurris, Doetinchem, 1948, pages 26-27 brewery's website The 1911 Encyclopedia Brittanica Wahl & Henius, pages 823-830 Whitbread Gravity Book |
You'll surely have seen that most are in the 1050-1060 range. Though there are a few quite a wide outside that range both above and below.
I always think of Export as the German equivalent of Mild. A grand old gentleman who's fallen on hard times. No wonder I follow its fate with such attention.
I think it was Michael Jackson who defined (Dortmunder) Export as a stronger version of Pils, i.e. hoppy, golden and bottom-fermented.
ReplyDeleteIsn't Dunkles Export hoppier than Dunkles as well as stronger? That would fit your analogy of Helles and Dunkles with Light and Dark Milds.
Matt, I think Michael Jackson also differentiated Dortmunder Export a bit more, observing it was darker, fuller-bodied and less hoppy than Pils.
ReplyDeleteHow hoppy a Dunkles Export is depends on where it comes from. Most of the Franconian ones are a good deal hoppier than those from Southern Bavaria.
The problem is, most little franconion brewers JUST DON'T care about style....
ReplyDeleteDunkles Export pops up sometimes, sometimes DUnkles, sometimes Landbier.......
And all these Times can refer to the same strength beer....
As fascinating as all those tables always are, beer"styles" is,espaicilly when it comes to small regional breweries, a very loose term.
I know for instance of a lot of different francion beers, called something like ,,Landbier" or ,,bernsteinfarbenes Landbier" which are around 5,4% and are amber....
Elektorlurch, very, very true. Sometimes Franconian breweries just call their beer Hausbier.
ReplyDeleteOne of the points I was trying to make is that, historically, Export wasn't so much a style as a strength. If this doesn't always work today, it's because of changes in gravity of individual beers over the years.
I'll be publishing something soon about how Germans classified beer in 1900. It's conceptually very different to modern systems of classification.
I don't think it's only small Franconian brewers who don't care about style - very few brewers in Belgium care also. It seems style is mainly something dictated and policed by groups who live too far away to understand these beers.
ReplyDelete