It was very much a minority style, though there was probably at least as much choice of different brands as in Britain today. Though, as I recently posted, lager accounted for about 20% of Barclay Perkins output. The bigger profit margin Lager offered was beginning to attract the attention of the larger brewers.
"Lager
Although more popular on the continent of Europe and in the United States, there are several well-known brands of British lager - Barclay's, Graham's, Red Tower and others. With the return to normal trading, the leading Czech, German, Danish and Dutch lagers are available in those bars that hold varied stocks. Important differences in brewing practice have already been noted. A fairly high percentage of maize flakes and a more light cured pale ale barley malts are used for light lagers, whilst dark lagers of the Munich type have many qualities of light stouts. The decoction method of mashing and very light hopping with bottom fermentation are the general rule. After the first stages of fermentation the beer is left to mature in 'lagers' or storage tanks for as long as a year. Attenuation is as high as eighty percent.
The treatment results in a beer of subtle flavour, and sometimes of deceptive alcoholic strength. The very light mild flavour is popular with the ladies. Lagers are refrigerated, most carefully filtered and can be served ice-cold without any risk of clouding or hazing.
Strengths vary. Some lagers are weak, others appear to be, their lighter flavour misleading the drinker. An average of four per cent alcohol is common. Some British lagers are rather below the average, some German lagers well above. The famous Danish Carlsberg and Tuborg brands are near the average, and some of the popular Dutch types, Oranjeboom and Heinekens, and the French beers from Alsace are of fair body and flavour."
"The Book Of Beer" by Andrew Campbell, 1956, page 94.
Popular with the ladies. I hadn't realised anyone had ever said that without irony. But I think we can excuse Campbell this one piece of condescension.
It just so happens that I have details of pretty much every Lager Campbell mentions:
Lager in
| |||||||||||
Year
|
Brewer
|
Country
|
Beer
|
Price
|
size
|
package
|
FG
|
OG
|
Colour
|
ABV
|
Atten-uation
|
1957
|
Amstel
|
Lager
|
1/9d
|
half
|
bottled
|
1007.2
|
1030.8
|
9.5
|
3.06
|
76.62%
| |
1956
|
half
|
bottled
|
1015.2
|
1053.2
|
20
|
4.93
|
71.43%
| ||||
1957
|
Stella Lager
|
1/8d
|
half
|
bottled
|
1007.6
|
1044.3
|
8
|
4.78
|
82.84%
| ||
1957
|
Barclay Perkins
|
Pilsner Lager
|
half
|
bottled
|
1006.3
|
1035
|
9
|
3.73
|
82.00%
| ||
1957
|
Bierbrouwerij De Wereld
|
Piraat Lager Beer
|
2/-
|
16 oz
|
bottled
|
1005.7
|
1032.8
|
9
|
3.52
|
82.62%
| |
1957
|
Brasseries
|
Stella Lager
|
half
|
bottled
|
1006.5
|
1039.7
|
9
|
4.32
|
83.63%
| ||
1957
|
Carlings
|
Black Label
|
1/9d
|
half
|
bottled
|
1006
|
1031
|
4.5
|
3.25
|
80.65%
| |
1957
|
Carlings Brewery
|
Black Label
|
2/-
|
half
|
bottled
|
1007.7
|
1036.3
|
75
|
3.71
|
78.79%
| |
1957
|
Carlsberg,
|
Danish Pilsner
|
1/8d
|
half
|
bottled
|
1008.4
|
1031.5
|
9
|
2.99
|
73.33%
| |
1956
|
Export Lager
|
2/-
|
half
|
bottled
|
1004.5
|
1046.2
|
8
|
5.45
|
90.26%
| ||
1957
|
Fosters Export Lager
|
2/-
|
half
|
bottled
|
1005.8
|
1046
|
8.5
|
5.25
|
87.39%
| ||
1957
|
Dortmunder
|
Pilsener
|
1/9d
|
0.25 litre
|
bottled
|
1007.4
|
1042.8
|
8
|
4.61
|
82.71%
| |
1956
|
Flowers
|
Lager
|
1/6d
|
half
|
bottled
|
1014
|
1040.4
|
9
|
3.41
|
65.35%
| |
1957
|
Flowers
|
Lager
|
1/6d
|
half
|
bottled
|
1017.9
|
1045
|
9
|
3.50
|
60.22%
| |
1957
|
Flowers Breweries Ltd.
|
Flowers Lager
|
half
|
bottled
|
1017.5
|
1050
|
14
|
4.20
|
65.00%
| ||
1956
|
Frydenlunds Brewery,
|
Peak Lager
|
1/3d
|
half
|
bottled
|
1005.7
|
1034.3
|
12
|
3.72
|
83.38%
| |
1957
|
Graham's
|
Pilsener Lager
|
1/8d
|
half
|
bottled
|
1007.2
|
1035.6
|
9
|
3.69
|
79.78%
| |
1957
|
Graham's Golden Lager
|
Pilsner Lager
|
half
|
bottled
|
1007.3
|
1030.4
|
11
|
3.00
|
75.99%
| ||
1957
|
Heineken's
|
Lager
|
1/9d
|
half
|
bottled
|
1009
|
1038.7
|
5
|
3.86
|
76.74%
| |
1957
|
Holsten Brewery,
|
Holsten Pilsner
|
1/9d
|
half
|
bottled
|
1008.2
|
1044.7
|
8
|
4.75
|
81.66%
| |
1955
|
Liebmann Breweries
|
Rheingold Extra Dry Lager
|
can
|
1011.6
|
1049.8
|
6
|
4.97
|
76.71%
| |||
1957
|
Löwenbräu
|
Pale Bock
|
2/6d
|
0.33 litre
|
bottled
|
1014.3
|
1061.9
|
6
|
6.20
|
76.90%
| |
1956
|
Miller, Milwuakee
|
High Life (as sold to US forces in
|
1/1d
|
13 fl. oz
|
can
|
1012.3
|
1045.7
|
6
|
4.33
|
73.09%
| |
1955
|
National Brewery [
|
Beer
|
bottled
|
1011
|
1050.9
|
10
|
5.19
|
78.39%
| |||
1956
|
NV Bierbrouwerij,
|
2/-
|
half
|
bottled
|
1005.3
|
1033.2
|
7
|
3.63
|
84.04%
| ||
1957
|
Oranjeboom Brewery,
|
Dutch Pilsener
|
1/9d
|
half
|
bottled
|
1007.8
|
1033.3
|
9
|
3.31
|
76.58%
| |
1955
|
Pabst [
|
Blue Ribbon
|
can
|
1011.7
|
1048.9
|
9
|
4.84
|
76.07%
| |||
1957
|
Pilsner Urquell
|
Pilsener
|
2/-
|
half
|
bottled
|
1010
|
1036.3
|
9
|
3.41
|
72.45%
| |
1956
|
1/4d
|
half
|
bottled
|
1005.9
|
1031.2
|
10
|
3.29
|
81.09%
| |||
1955
|
Ringnes
|
Export Pilsener
|
2/-
|
pint
|
bottled
|
1010.9
|
1053.8
|
11
|
5.59
|
79.74%
| |
1957
|
Schous Brewery,
|
Norwegian Beer
|
half
|
bottled
|
1006.6
|
1042.2
|
12
|
4.64
|
84.36%
| ||
1954
|
Steel & Coulson
|
Lager Beer
|
1/3d
|
half
|
bottled
|
1004.3
|
1032
|
11
|
3.60
|
86.56%
| |
1955
|
Swedish Beer Export Co. Gothenburg
|
Three Crowns Beer (Lager)
|
1/3d
|
half
|
bottled
|
1008.7
|
1052.9
|
9
|
5.77
|
83.55%
| |
1955
|
Tennent
|
Lager
|
1/3d
|
half
|
bottled
|
1007.7
|
1036.1
|
9
|
3.69
|
78.67%
| |
1957
|
Tennent
|
Lager Beer
|
1/8d
|
12 oz
|
bottled
|
1008.6
|
1040.6
|
11
|
4.16
|
78.82%
| |
1957
|
Tuborg
|
Export Beer
|
1/8d
|
half
|
bottled
|
1011.5
|
1052.3
|
7
|
5.31
|
78.01%
| |
1957
|
Tuborg
|
Lager
|
1/8d
|
half
|
bottled
|
1005.8
|
1030.7
|
10
|
3.23
|
81.11%
| |
1957
|
Ekla
|
1/9d
|
half
|
bottled
|
1008.2
|
1046.3
|
7
|
4.96
|
82.29%
| ||
1957
|
Wm. McEwan & Wm. Younger
|
"MY" Export Lager
|
1/3d
|
half
|
bottled
|
1006.3
|
1033.6
|
13
|
3.55
|
81.25%
| |
1957
|
Z.H.B.
|
Export Pilsner Lager
|
1/9d
|
half
|
bottled
|
1006.2
|
1031.6
|
10
|
3.30
|
80.38%
| |
Source:
Whitbread Gravity Book
|
Intriguing stuff, eh? Especially as many of today's brands are in there: Stella, Fosters, Heineken, Tennents, Skol (then still called Graham's) and Amstel.
There appears to have been little direct correlation between price and strength. For 1s 9d a half pint bottle you could get Lagers of 3.06%, 3.25%, 3.3%, 3.31%, 3.86%, 4.61%, 4.75% and 4.96% ABV. A bottle of Three Crowns Lager, weighing in at 5.77% ABV, was just 1s 3d. You explain the logic to me. Looks like they were just charging whatever they could get away with. Since, as Campbell states, it was hard for British drinkers to estimate the strength of Lager, it would have been easy for a brewery to take advantage.
Campbell wasn't far off on the alcoholic strengths. Foreign-brewed Lager averaged (at least the examples I have) 4.27% ABV. British-brewed Lagers 3.57% ABV.
Well that's the chapter on beer types finished. Now onto the one on specific beers.
A Munich newspaper commenting on British lager said:
ReplyDeleteLager is an imitation Continental beer drunk only by refined ladies, people with digestive ailments, tourists, and other weaklings.
Munchen Suddeutsche Zeitung, April 1976.
When I used to visit Germany frequently on business, about that time as it happens, I recall Northern Germans saying very much the same thing about Munich beers.
Hmmmm... Interesting to see a Pilsner Urquell with 1036OG, that wouldn't even be desítka, if my maths are right.
ReplyDeleteCan it have been the now disappeared lighter PU?
Pivní Filosof, it would have been a version specially for the British market.
ReplyDeleteI was reading this myself the other day and wondered when you'd get round to it.
ReplyDeleteTwo bits caught my eye:
"dark lagers of the Munich type have many qualities of light stouts" reminded me of your comparison of helles and dunkles with light and dark milds.
"The decoction method of mashing and very light hopping with bottom fermentation are the general rule. After the first stages of fermentation the beer is left to mature in 'lagers' or storage tanks for as long as a year."
Was this ever the case with British-brewed lager? And when did it it first appear on draught rather than in bottles, in the 60's alongside keg bitter?
Matt, Barclay Perkins had a draught Lager in the 1920's. Their WW II price lists include the CO2 tanks for the draught Lager.
ReplyDeleteTennent's first Lager brews had a respectable gravity of 1.055, but by 1955 it had fallen to the 4.0%abv it still is today. I wonder when the change occurred; after the First World War like other British beers?
ReplyDelete