Josef Schneider, Essing

Josef Schneider
Altmühlgasse 10
93343 Essing.

Essing is a little down the river from Weltenburg. The village cowers at the bottom of a cliff. They must be trusting folk, building their houses under such seemingly crumbly rock.

I was relieved that the hotel part of Schneider (in a separate building from the pub). where we were staying, was a safe-looking 50 metres from the cliff.

Most of the evening flowed by in a river of beer. Unlike many of Franconia's small breweries, Josef Schneider (not to be confused with the wheat beer brewery a few kilometres away) makes a whole range of beers. You can't just try one, can you? Draught, they had Pils, Dunkles, Märzen and Heller Bock.

I eventually sampled all four. Put me on the spot and make me name a favourite and I would choose the Dunkles. Though they Märzen was might tasty to, though in a more subtle way. By the time I got to the Bock, I wasn't much in the mood for detailed analysis. Balanced is a bout as much as I can recall. Warming. That, too.

But the most enjoyable was the Pils. Because I did haven't to pay for it. Free beer always tastes best. Next to the pub we noticed a party in a marquee. Mr Schneider was celebrating his son passing his brewing exams. He was a very proud and happy man. In such a good mood, in fact, that he invited Andy and I to a few beers as chatted to us between serving the other guests. A very nice man. I was glad that I liked his beers. While we talked the scorchingly bitter Pils slipped down a treat. I haven't enjoyed a Pils so much for decades.

Enthusiastic enjoyment of Pils the previous night didn't seem such a great idea any more in the morning. It was a struggle to get out of bed for a brewery tour at 9 AM. I'm glad I took the trouble. Quaint, you could call it. Small but perfectly-formed. Some of the equipment is antique, but that just adds to the charm. Mr Schneider (possessor of a gut whose capacity I would estimate at 20 gallons) brews just once a week. Open fermentation is followed by 8 weeks lagering in horizontal tanks at around 0º C.


"Where can I get this wonderful, hand-crafted beer?". In Essing. Another brewery with zero distribution. You can drink their beer in the pub or buy crates at the brewery. Marketing costs must be minimal.