Desert wine

It's an early start today. I rise at 5:20. I skip showering. 

I meet up with some other judges at reception around 5:50. We then go off in search of the bus. We initially head off in the wrong direction. Until another group of judges puts us right.

We're given a brown paper bag with breakfast. And another with snacks.

There are, in fact, two buses. There would need to be with 60 judges going on the trip. It's about 6:40 when we eventually set off. I sit next to Dan, who's a really nice bloke.

Once we're outside the city, the landscape becomes pretty barren. With volcanic dust and rocks everywhere. Patches of it are marked out with old car tyres. This is land that's being squatted. Inside is just dust and a small shack. Looks a pretty miserable place to live to me.

At a certain point, the dust becomes sand. And manages to be even more desolate. There's no vegetation of any kind. The most deserty desert imaginable. Just lots of rubbish by the side of the road. What a depressing landscape.

Things liven up a bit when we get to La Joya. Where shops in shacks and unfinished buildings line the road. Backed by irrigated fields of cactus and dragon fruit. The cactus is for cochinella, which is produced by a parasite.

Further into La Joya, factories and light industry are strung out along the road. It's still pretty dusty. Dolores would hate it here.

Once out of town, we cross some barren mountains. Then Vitor comes into view. A lush valley surrounded by dusty beige hills, devoid of any life. It's like an oasis. Once beyond, we pass through a flat expanse of sand. Whose only features are discarded car tyres and general rubbish. I wouldn't want to get stuck out here.

After over two hours on the bus, we reach our first destination: Santa Rita and the Midolo winery. Another oasis of irrigated green. We drive through the town. Dogs lazily wander the streets. Buildings seem rushed and unfinished. Dust is everywhere.

It's a relief to get off the bus. My arse is starting to ache. And I could do with a piss. Which is the first thing I do. In a toilet, obviously. I’m not an animal.

The visit kicks off with a talk by the owner. Some of which is translated into English by a lady from the Arequipa tourist board. We then get to walk around some of the vineyard. Which is very dusty. Soon my shoes are covered in the stuff.

Various grape varieties are being grown. All fully netted. I guess to keep the birds out. Though that doesn't seem 100% effective as there's a humming bird buzzing about. It's pretty hot because we're now only at 1100 metres.

Back in the winery, we look at the fermentation and maturation room Which is full of plastic containers. And a still for pisco.

We're given little plastic sample glasses that are filled with an orange-coloured wine. Fairly nice. Next comes a sample of pisco. Which is OK, if a little rough around the edges. 

I notice a judge at the bar getting a sample of another pisco. I go up and get one for myself. It's much smoother. So I buy a bottle. Not sure how much it cost. Pretty sure it’s worth whatever it was.

We return to Vitor, the lush valley between barren hills, where we visit our second winery, Hacienda del Abuelo.

No vineyard tour, this time. We go straight to the winery. Here we find more plastic tubs. But also some stainless-steel vessels. And, in a special room, earthenware jars, some dating back to the 1850s. Still in use. That's so damn cool.

Sampling time. First, a wonderful malbec. A really top-class wine. But I'm after pisco. Which I get next. It's not as good as the one I bought. But I notice that they do have a posher one. I buy a bottle of that. They don't take cards, so I pay with euros. Getting Peruvian sols as change.

I hang out for a while with Gabi and the other Brazilians. We drink some more of the lovely malbec, as someone has bought a bottle and opened it. Really wonderful stuff. The best red wine I’ve drunk in quite a while.

We return to La Joya, where we're having lunch at Musuq Restautant Campestre. A cavernous modern restaurant set back from the main road through town. 

I’m having roast pork and noodle cake. Another big portion and I can't finish it all. There's Lager and chicha (non-alcoholic) to drink with it. The Lager is OK: cold and refreshing. I buy a bottle of Pilsner, which I share around.

The final winery is also in La Joya. Torre de La Gala. Our visit starts with quite a long talk in Spanish by the owner. Who looks a good bit older even than me. But still pretty spritely.

We're given samples of a sweet red wine. Which I don't really care for. Just way too sweet, for me.

I'm getting pretty tired and find places to sit as we tour the winery. When we get to the pisco room, I sit next to a plastic vat. I'm considering pouring myself a glass when an employee comes up and fills a jug from the vat. And pours everyone samples. It's not really a sipping pisco, but OK.

Visit over, I nip to their shop and buy their poshest pisco. I say buy. They only accept cash. Of which I don’t have enough. Someone called Andre kindly pays for it. Thanks, mate!

The sun is just setting when we leave. The journey in the dark will be fun. On the way out I noticed lots of crosses and little shrines on the roadside. Each, presumably, a spot where someone has died. There are an awful lot of them.

At a certain point, traffic comes to a standstill One lane is closed as a lorry has tipped onto its side. Confirming how dangerous this road is.

Justin and Ruvani break open a bottle of pisco and share it me and Dan. Quite a nice one. It helps the journey go quicker. And the chat to flow along with the pisco.

We get back at 20:30 and have to walk up a fucking hill. I must be getting used to the altitude because I make it up without fucking dying.

Some of the others go to the hotel bar. I just go to my room and sip on pisco while watching the latest episode of Taskmaster. Then slip off to slumber.


Musuq Restautant Campestre
G552+3W9, 
Arequipa 04405.